The Naked Stranger

with cycling. I also wanted to be as self suffi cient as possible, which meant bringing my own tent, food, supplies and more. That’s when I added a custom-made riyaka—a bicycle-drawn cart. Literally translated, it means “rear car.”

Was it custom made for your travels?

Yes, the cart uses durable, Tannus nopuncture tires from South Korea. I worked with a bicycle shop to put it together. It’s made out of aluminum so it’s light and I can carry it on the plane.

What was your fi rst destination?

I spent two years traveling Japan, then wanted to go somewhere I couldn’t speak Japanese. I boarded a ferry from Yamaguchi Prefecture to South Korea. One experience that stood out to me was when I was going to ascend a mountain with my riyaka. This man tried to stop me saying it was too diffi cult, but I tried as much as I could to convey my passion. We weren’t speaking the same language, but he could see that and decided to support me, and even brought me food.

After that trip, I wanted to challenge myself further so I headed to the deserts of Australia. It was physically draining as I pushed myself in extreme heat and harsh conditions. I didn’t have reception for three weeks so there was no way for me to contact anyone. I spent lots of time talking to Toramaru, which is what I had named my riyaka, while listening to English conversation podcasts.

When the 2011 Tohoku earthquake happened, I immediately went to volunteer. It was a grim experience as I saw firsthand the effects of the triple disaster: pulling bodies out of the water, the nuclear waste that was leaking out and people being evacuated. I also photographed this journey and wanted to raise awareness about Tohoku while seeing what other countries were using for energy.

The next few years were spent traveling to Taiwan and New Zealand and then achieving my personal goal—to go from the top of North America to the bottom of South America. I would walk 50 kilometers in the summer and 40 in winter. Thankfully I achieved this before the pandemic in May 2019. Along the way, I met many people who were interested in what I was doing and my riyaka, and I could share with them my experiences about Tohoku.

What are a few of your favorite landscapes?

Defi nitely the famous Uyuni Salt Flats in Bolivia. I also enjoyed the Yukon with its tundras, auroras and autumn foliage. In South America, the highaltitude lakes in the Andes Range were stunning, particularly in Huaraz, Peru. Monte Fitz Roy in Patagonia was also breathtaking.

Do you work while traveling?

Sometimes I write or submit photographs from my travels, but mostly I travel as budget-friendly as possible, work odd jobs where I can and save up, then go on to my next destination.

I also have sponsors who support me, like Streamtrail. They supply me with their durable, waterproof dry bags. They have protected my food and supplies from nosy grizzly bears while I was traveling through North America. I saw many but thankfully they couldn’t smell the food as it was really packed in there.

Have your travels changed with the pandemic slowing down international travel?

For sure. I’ve temporarily moved away from the riyaka and been exploring the waters surrounding Japan with my stand-up paddleboard. In my previous jobs as an ocean guide and lifesaver, plus my time in the defense force, I had to learn ocean navigational skills.

What are some challenges you face when traveling by SUP?

This goes for all solo travel, but you have to be responsible not only for yourself but also how you represent your community. Because stand-up paddling is generally an “easy” activity, there are many people who get stranded or hurt. SUP boards are very big, long, buoyant and light, so they are prone to getting caught by currents and it’s easy to lose your balance especially during strong wind. Mine is infl atable making it easier for it to get swept away.

SUPs are still relatively new in Japan and can’t carry as much on board. I try to avoid risk by planning, because it would be meiwaku (a bother) to other paddlers in Japan’s budding SUP community if I am irresponsible and get hurt or stranded.

While I’m at sea, all I’m thinking about is if the winds or currents change and getting to my destination safely before nightfall. If the wind is propelling you forward, that’s great, but if it’s working against you then you have to make yourself as small as possible and paddle hard. I use my smartphone’s GPS which works without reception, and also rely on wind direction and the clouds. At most, it’s taken me a full day to get to my destination, which means eating on board, and yes, going to the bathroom.

I avoid going to high-traffic areas, for example major ports, fi shing or ferry routes, and waters near navy or defense force bases.

What’s in your bag?

I have to live as cheaply as possible, so I need to pack and make smart purchases. Food, clothes, sleeping bag, tent, solar panel to charge my phone and something announce where I am, whether that’s a whistle, rescue mirror, SOS refl ection sign or smoke bomb.

What are some of your recent SUP expeditions?

Last winter, I visited the Shiretoko Peninsula in northeastern Hokkaido where you can see drift ice. It was freezing but really beautiful. Currently I’m on the opposite end of Japan at the Yaeyama Islands of Okinawa, island hopping to mujintou (uninhabited islands). I recommend Okinawa’s Kerama and Hatoma islands.

What are your future plans?

As international travel eases up, I’d like to bring my riyaka to the Himalayas, Africa and Iceland. I’d also like to travel by SUP from Ilulissat, a coastal town in western Greenland, exploring the southern part of the country. v

Follow Norio Sasaki ’s adventures on Instagram at @sasakinorio.

The ARTISANS of Tsubame Sanjo

BY DEREK YAMASHITA DEREK YAMASHITA

At the center of Niigata Prefecture, in the wide open Echigo Plains, is an accumulation of more than 400 years of metallurgy and craftsmanship excellence in the artisan city known as Tsubame Sanjo. Heralded as producers of some of the fi nest tools and crafts across Japan—and the world—this city is a leading producer of metalware including prized Japanese chefs knives, teapots, utensils and more. Travelers intrigued by Japan’s never ending obsession with perfection can explore the open factories here and even take home some prized Japanese crafts.

In the face of an aging population and ever increasing pressure from mass production and global competition, the master artisans of Tsubame Sanjo came up with an innovative open factory system where visitors from around the world are welcome inside with some of Japan’s most famous artisans. The Origins of Tsubame Sanjo’s craft heritage started from nail production to meet the needs of a burgeoning Edo (the ancient name for Tokyo) during the early 1600’s of the Edo Period. It is believed that farmers in this region began to produce these nails to supplement their income when devastating fl oods would wreak havoc on the farming industry.

The rapid growth of the new capital of Japan, as well as many great fi res, led to a boom in demand for not only nails, but also other tools to meet the construction needs that Tsubame Sanjo rose up to meet.

The accumulation of wealth, knowledge and expertise then allowed Tsubame Sanjo to expand into agricultural, kitchenware and many other crafts as it cemented itself as one of the centers for crafts and manufacturing in Japan.

Tsubame Sanjo’s Open Factory System

In the face of mass produced products and a severe drought of new recruits willing to become artisans, the region made a major push in the past few years for producers to open up their factories to visitors under what they call the Tsubame Sanjo Open Factory System.

Under this program many of the region's main producers allow guests onto their factory fl oors where they can see the entire production process for their products and even have tours with the artisans themselves.

The primary goal of this is to convey to the world the detailed work and mastery that goes into all of their products and have consumers gain an appreciation and understanding for the value behind this quality.

A second goal of the open factory system is to inspire youths to take up the arduous career path of becoming a disciple and embarking on years of dedication to join the ranks of these prestigious artisans. With this in mind, school trips often take their students to this city to educate them on Japanese craftsmanship.

Some notable examples of Tsubame Sanjo’s open factories include Gyokusendo, a copperware producer dating back to the early 1,800’s that produces some of Japan’s finest teapots entirely by hand in their beautiful wooden workshop—largely unchanged from the original construction.

Tojiro, a top producer of Japan’s prized chefs knives is also a must see for those looking to pick up a knife that will last generations. Guests can see how their products blend together machine and handmade techniques to produce knives that distinguish themselves even among Japan’s many incredible knife makers.

Some of these factories even offer guests the chance to work side by side with artisans to learn skills or produce a variety of crafts that they can take home with them. This includes knife sharpening lessons with Japanese whetstones, hammering copper cups and even making your own Japanese chefs knives during certain times of the year.

Active Escapes

While Tsubame Sanjo primarily has business hotels in its city center, a short train ride to the base of Mt. Yahiko offers guests the chance to stay at a charming Japanese ryokan in a small town complete with hot spring baths and a delicious traditional Japanese meals featuring the cuisine of Niigata.

You can easily start your day with a hike up Mt. Yahiko and a visit to the vast Yahiko Shrine at its base before catching the train into Tsubame Sanjo to explore the many open factory producers.

ESSENTIAL INFO

When to Go

Tsubame Sanjo’s factories are open year round, but its surrounding natural beauty are best in the summer and fall.

Getting There

Tsubame Sanjo is just under two hours via the Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo Station. It is also situated about two hours by car from Nozawa Onsen and other northern Nagano resorts making it a possible cultural excursion for winter trips.

Web Connection

The area doesn’t have much of a digital footprint online in English but you can find more information in Japanese at

kouba-fes.jp/history2/

About the Author

After college, Derek Yamashita chose to explore his Japanese-American roots by starting a life deep in the countryside of Yamagata Prefecture where he found joy in the trails, cycling courses, fi shing and all the area had to offer. In 2017 Derek co-founded The Hidden Japan, a travel company promoting travel to the deeper parts of Japan beyond the big cities by working closely with rural communities to create boutique tours where travelers experience Japan alongside the local people. Find out more at thehiddenjapan.com

KANSAI

CANYONING in KIHO

BY ALENA ECKELMANN

Hidden in the evergreen forests and deep valleys of the Kii Peninsula is an exciting new canyoning experience. Crystal clear streams and gushing waterfalls beckon active travelers and adventure seekers to Kiho, home of Kansai’s best canyoning experience.

Travelers and outdoor enthusiasts have long been coming to the southern part of the Kii Peninsula to explore the sacred Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails and the three Kumano Grand Shrines. The outdoor and adventure experiences within the vast area of what is referred to as kii-no-kuni (land of trees) are still a fairly well-kept secret

Mike Harris, founder and owner of Canyons, who has pioneered many of Japan’s canyoning courses, has spent more than 20 years scouring the peninsula’s canyons with his team and literally testing the waters of countless streams and stunning waterfalls. After many exploratory missions they settled on Kiho, in the most southern part of Mie Prefecture, and opened the first canyoning operation in the area.

Canyons Kiho, which opened in July, is Canyon’s fourth base in Japan, adding an exciting new location to their portfolio of worldclass canyoning bases that include Minakami and Kusatsu in Gunma as well as Okutama in the far West of Tokyo. The Kiho team has settled in well. The local community has been welcoming and instrumental in setting up the base at the Osato Water Park, which is popular with locals during summer for its great river pool. One friendly local even made the Canyons signboard and stickers for the base.

The Charms of Kiho

The lush native evergreen forest in the Kiho area perfectly sets the scene for nature lovers where beautifully carved bedrock and deep pools beckon for exploration. Float, swim and dive for relaxation in one of the pools or try some daring jumps from the steep cliffs in the canyons.

Kiho is located at the edge of the YoshinoKumano National Park and special permits were necessary to be able to set safety anchors along the stone faces of the canyons. The team spent thrilling hours and a lot of rope work in order to bring canyoning to the area. Kiho is a small town of 10,000 souls who mostly live in picturesque villages surrounded by terraced rice paddies dotted across 80-square-kilometers. A chilled “inaka” vibe permeates through the area and makes stressed city-dwellers feel relaxed immediately.

With mild temperatures yearround, and little or no snow fall in winter, the water temperature in Kiho is great even at the beginning and end of canyoning season when waters are quite chilly elsewhere.

Canyoning and Camping

Canyons Kiho currently offers two half-day courses that can be combined to create a combo full-day adventure of awesome jumps and slides. These course are level 2 to 3, but can be tailored to cater to total beginners as well as experienced adventurers from age 13 to those over 60, as long as you are fit and not afraid of water and heights.

The Hisetsu Course is named after the grand waterfall, Hisetsu Taki, a 30-meter drop that is the end-point and highlight of this two to three-hour easily accessible introductory level course. The Hisetsu Campsite just below the fall is one of the best campsites in Japan. Rental tents and cottages, BBQ equipment and different choices of BBQ and hotpot sets are available to cater to all tastes. There are several sauna tents and a range of activities making it a perfect place to stay near the Canyons Kiho base. Canyoning and camp packages are also available.

The three to four-hour Kiri Canyon Course, named after nearby Kirihara Village, features slides up to 20 meters with 45-degree angles and waterfalls of up to 15 meters in height, making it a bit more challenging. Journeying through this awesome canyon gets your adrenaline pumping and will test your limits.

Each experience starts with a warm welcome and check-in at the reception area, followed by a tour briefing and safety talk. Experienced guides carefully monitor participants and ensure a safe experience throughout. Groups have a maximum of 12 participants but experiences for families or group of friends can be customized by request.

Canyons guides are excited about the potential for canyoning in Kiho and throughout the Kii Peninsula. They are already scouting out new courses of varying levels for the 2023 season, so be sure to follow them to hear about new tours, some Level 4+ for the experienced canyoning aficionados out there.

Adventures Further Afield

Kiho borders on Shingu, a larger city and transport hub in Wakayama Prefecture, located just across the Kumano River where it flows into the Pacific Ocean. If you head toward the coast north of Kiho, you’ll find the 22-kilometer stretch that is Shichiri Mihama Beach—Japan’s longest. The Kiho Coastline, which is part of the Nanki Kumano Geo Park, is the breeding ground of sea turtles who return each year to lay eggs.

The Iseji Route of the Kumano Kodo follows the coast and cuts through Kiho offering great day hikes. A drive along mountain lanes takes you to the famous Maruyama Senmaida Rice Terraces, while around the Kiho base you’ll find equally scenic mini versions of these terraced fields.

With the golden season upon us, an autumn escape to Kodo, Kiho’s canyons and some hiking along the Kumano or a visit to the Nachi Grand Waterfall, is a perfect way to combine adventure, nature and refreshment in the Kii Peninsula.

ESSENTIAL INFO

When to Go

Canyons Kiho operates from mid-April to mid-October. Bear in mind that the Kii Peninsula receives high amounts of rainfall, this ensures the canyons and waterfalls boast high water levels for exciting canyoning experiences, however during typhoon season operations can be temporarily suspended to ensure safety.

Getting There

Kiho is three hours by car from Osaka or Nagoya. By train, take the JR train from Nagoya or Osaka to Shingu. The nearest airport is Nanki-Shirahama with direct flights from Haneda twice a day and a rent-a-car service by the airport, a great option that allows you to drive at your own pace across the scenic peninsula. There is also an overnight bus that runs daily between Shinjuku and Shingu. Canyons Kiho offers a pick-up service from Shingu Station or from hotel in the area.

Web Connection

Reservations for a canyoning experience at Canyons Kiho and further details about the canyoning courses and nearby attractions can be found at canyons.jp/en/areas/kiho/canyons-kiho. v

THE SURFING LIFE

Hata Style

BY DANIEL MOORE PHOTOS BY TRENT MAXWELL

Intrepid surfers are known for traveling to the Intrepid surfers are known for traveling to the far reaches of the globe to find quality waves. far reaches of the globe to find quality waves. While Kochi Prefecture, in southern Shikoku While Kochi Prefecture, in southern Shikoku Island, may not qualify as remote, it is far away Island, may not qualify as remote, it is far away from the frenetic pace of Osaka, Tokyo and from the frenetic pace of Osaka, Tokyo and other large cities in Japan. Bruce Dillon, an other large cities in Japan. Bruce Dillon, an avid Australian surfer, laid roots in Kuroshio, a avid Australian surfer, laid roots in Kuroshio, a town located in the Hata District of Kochi, and town located in the Hata District of Kochi, and has built a “surf dojo” where aspiring surfers has built a “surf dojo” where aspiring surfers can get their feet wet and get a taste for the can get their feet wet and get a taste for the surfing lifestyle. The Hata area has numerous surfing lifestyle. The Hata area has numerous surf breaks, delicious local cuisine and a laidsurf breaks, delicious local cuisine and a laidback culture that is ideal for extended holidays back culture that is ideal for extended holidays or remote work away from the crowds. or remote work away from the crowds.

It takes just an hour by plane to leave behind the dense cityscape of Tokyo for the lush mountains and expansive view of Tosa Bay. When you emerge, the inviting warm air and relaxed atmosphere feels like you just landed in Hawaii. Locals’ friendly demeanor reinforces the vibe. It's a two-hour drive from Kochi Ryoma Airport to Kuroshio Town. This is where most of the best surf breaks in Kochi Prefecture begin.

Bruce Dillon, a Gold Coast native who spent the last 25 years in Japan, started Hata Surf Dojo here. Although he moved to Kochi for his own surfing and worked in various fields, he has managed to turn his passion into a successful bilingual surf school. The Dojo offers private and group lessons for new or beginner surfers. Because the Irino Coast consistently provides small to medium-sized waves, it's a great place to learn under Bruce and his instructors' expert guidance. Bruce also makes great jalapeño peppers under the “Hatapeño” label.

This was just my fifth time surfing, and although I occasionally get lucky, I mostly wipe out while trying to stand. I was eager to take a real lesson for the fi rst time and ride some waves. At the safety briefi ng, instructors discussed where to wait, which types of waves to look for, and the perfect timing for catching waves. It was immensely helpful to understand the theory behind surfing and get a better understanding of the ocean. Although theory and execution are worlds apart, everyone in the group was able to stand and ride at least a few waves. I was hooked and went out with a friend the next morning. The nearby bay offers a wide, manageable-sized wave that doesn't require too much paddling to reach—all pluses for beginning surfers.

Surfing is a lifestyle and speaking with Bruce illuminated many aspects of surf culture. For Bruce, it's all about surfi ng: being in the water is why he moved to Kochi and what still motivates him to this day. Various companies approach him with opportunities to grow his business or branch into new opportunities, but he has declined, his passion for The Dojo is what has lead to his success. First and foremost, surfi ng is a lifestyle. When waves are too big for lessons that’s when he gets to surf.

Before visiting Kochi, I had heard rumors of heavy localism tossed around, meaning only locals are welcome at particular surf breaks. Although localism is an issue in Japan's surf culture, knowing some surf etiquette and going with a local surfer helps immensely. If you don't know anyone, take a lesson to understand the area or make some friends before going out solo. It's also vital to never surf breaks or in areas beyond your ability level. Like other aspects of etiquette in Japan, effort goes a long way and covers a multitude of faux pas.

Besides the great surf, other cool aspects of the area are the unique accommodation and the local izakaya (Japanese pubs). This area of Kochi doesn’t attract the large number of tourists needed to support large hotel chains, so small guesthouses, and inns feature prominently. Minshuku Kajika and Kuroshio-no-Ie have super friendly innkeepers. While Kajika features home-cooked, Tosa-style meals, Kuroshio-no-Ie is sudomari (stay only) which gives you the chance to go out and explore the food scene. The seared katsuo (bonito) at Izakaya Pokopen was probably the best I have ever tried. Solana Surf Camp makes a mean pizza, and Kamochinoyado Cafe & Bar is a fantastic

redesign of an old kominka (Japanesestyle house). There are also a few cafes around, but they seem to be sporadically open—perhaps it depends on if the surf is up—so check Google Maps, restaurant's social media pages or call before visiting. Shimanto City, just 20 minutes away, has more hotels, restaurants and activity options, but doesn't have Kuroshio's surf town vibe where it feels like you are in the "real Japan.” Being close to nature—especially the waves—is what draws people here, and why the locals want some (but not too many) surfers to check it out. If you enjoy exploring Japan and have been thinking of giving surfi ng a try, you won’t fi nd a better destination to dip your toes into the surfi ng life and experience some Hata hospitality. v

ESSENTIAL INFO

ACCOMMODATION • Kuroshio-no-Ie

Comfortable guesthouse

kuroshiostay.com

• Minshuku Kajika

Japanese-style bed and breakfast

kuroshiokajika.sakura.ne.jp

ACTIVITIES • Hata Surf Dojo

Bilingual private and group surf lessons and board rentals

visitkochijapan.com/en/activities/10160

• Whale Watching

Daily whale watching tours from April to October. Weather dependent.

visitkochijapan.com/en/activities/10131

WHEN TO GO

The best season for surfing in Kochi is from April to November. Typhoon season begins in the summer so check the local weather forecasts to stay safe. For activities besides surfi ng, spring and autumn are excellent times to be in Kochi when the weather is a little cooler. In autumn, the water is still warm but the weather outside is cooler.

GETTING THERE

If you’re coming from the Kansai area, you can either take a bullet train to Okayama and then switch to the Dosan Line, or rent a car and drive down. This scenic route takes you across the Great Seto Bridge which connects the main island of Honshu to Shikoku. It takes about three hours to reach Kochi Station. The best way to see Kochi is to drive or rent a car. Public transportation is available but limited and taxis are not available at most train stations.

From Kochi Ryoma Airport, Kuroshio Town is about a 50-minute drive from the Shimantocho-chuo IC on the Kochi Expressway. The toll road ends partway down the coast and turns into a coastal highway. There is also a direct train from Kochi Station, for those who don't have licenses or prefer not to drive.

• Bonito Experience

Try searing your own bonito at the Kuroshio Ichibankan.

visitkochijapan.com/en/taste-of-kochi/10265

RESTAURANTS • Solana Surf Camp

Best pizza in town. Uses “Hatapeño” peppers

instagram.com/solana_surf_camp

• Early Bird The Bread Stand

Best bakery in town.

instagram.com/earlybird_the_bread_ stand

• Izakaya Pokopen

Izakaya-style dining for local Kochi cuisine.

visitkochijapan.com/en/taste-ofkochi/10260