17 minute read

TOHOKU

The Tohoku Region represents about 35 percent of the area of Japan’s main island, Honshu. Running north-south through the center of Tohoku are the Ou Mountains, ranging between 1,500-2,000 meters. When the famous poet, Matsuo Basho, wrote The Narrow Road to the Deep North (Oku no Hosomichi), these were the mountains toward which he walked. Today they are full of some of Japan’s least crowded ski resorts. Tohoku may seem far away, but it’s only two-to-four hours by bullet train or you can jump on a domestic flight. Regardless, it’s never too far to go to find good snow.

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Hakkoda Ropeway

(017) 738-0343 www.hakkoda-ropeway.jp

- end of Feb. 9:00 - 15:20

The eight peaks of Hakkoda attract Japan's most devoted powder lovers. It is basically backcountry with a 100-person gondola that takes 10 minutes to the top with four trips every hour. Once you get off, you can choose from "Direct" or "Forest" trails. You won't get many blue bird days here, and visibility can be difficult during snowstorms, which happen often. So if you are a Hakkoda newbie and want to explore the terrain, it's best to grab a local guide. Hakkoda Sansou, across the parking lot from the gondola, is the closest accommodation. Up the road, Sukayu Onsen is a mixed hot spring with a 300-year history and a 1,000-person bath.

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Hachimantai Resort

(0195) 78-4111 www.hachimantai.co.jp

24 - Mar. 26

It’s easy to get confused because there are two Iwate Hachimantai resorts and another in Akita.

Iwate’s Hachimantai Resort, is a great family ski destination. Hachimantai Resort covers two main areas, Panorama ski area and the Shimokura ski area. Both are well sheltered from the weather, and Panorama features a huge night skiing area. There are high-speed lifts and mainly beginner or intermediate courses.

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Appi Kogen

(0195) 73-6401 www.appi-japan.com

Dec. 3 - Apr. 2 8:00 - 20:00 (16:00 - 20:00)

APPI is a giant resort (45.1 kilometers of trails) with a long season (thanks to the many north-facing slopes) plus some great facilities (thanks to bubble era spending). Unlike many resorts in Japan that have relatively short runs, the average course length at APPI is 2,100m; the longest 5,500m. It’s possible to do Appi as a long day-trip from Tokyo but, with two ski-in/ski-out hotels and an annex hotel, which collectively sleep 4,100 guests, why not stay and soak away sore muscles at one of the two natural hot springs after a day on the mountain. Families will appreciate the Kids Park.

ACCESS By Train and Bus: 50 minutes from Morioka Station to APPI. By Car: 15 minutes from

Tazawako Ski Resort

(0187) 46-2011 www.tazawako-ski.com

Dec. 17 - Apr. 2 9:00 - 16:00

2,700m

When it snows in Tazawako, and it usually does, there is deep powder and a good variety of courses to enjoy. When it is not snowing, you are treated to one of the great views of any ski resort in Japan, with Lake Tazawa below providing a stunning backdrop. For this reason, Tazawako is a popular ski resort for people in Tohoku, but the lines are still relatively short when compared to resorts in other areas of Japan. The lifts run directly from the Tazawako Onsen hotel area. The selection of runs should keep everyone happy; on one side is a beginner and intermediate area, and on the other is a more challenging advanced course. Powder lovers won’t want to miss the Komagatake Panoramic Cat Tour.

ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Tazawako Station (3 hours), then 30 minutes by bus to the ski resort

Eboshi Resort

(0224) 34-4001 www.eboshi.co.jp

Dec. 1 - Mar. 26 9:00 - 22:00 (16:00 - 22:00)

Miyagi's Eboshi Resort is on the other side of the mountain from the more famous Yamagata Zao Onsen Ski Resort. It's much quieter, the lift lines are shorter on this side of the track, and the views are fantastic. Although it's a decent sized resort with well laid-out courses and a variety of ways to descend the mountain, it is more geared for beginners or advanced riders, as there is not a lot of challenging terrain. Powder hounds will be salivating on some of the areas outside the lines.

ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Shoroishi-Zao Station (1 hour, 54 minutes) then about an hour to the ski resort

Zao Onsen Ski Resort

(023) 694-9617 www.zao-ski.or.jp

Early Dec. - early May 8:30 - 21:00 (17:00 - 21:00)

Ski resorts each have their own personalities; it is one of the joys of exploring new resort areas. Zao Onsen has a big bubbling personality. The town is literally bubbling with hot springs, and the ski resort offers a unique ski experience— skiing among the famous Zao Snow Monsters (juhyo). The resort is big with four gondolas, 32 lifts and a 10K downhill course. Skiers will enjoy the layout more than snowboarders (too much traversing), but the highlight, undoubtedly, is riding among these huge creatures formed of ice and wind. The peak season is February, and the juhyo illumination is spectacular.

ACCESS By Train and Bus: 2 1/2 hours by bullet train from Tokyo to Yamagata Station, then 40 minutes by bus to Zao Onsen

HOSHINO RESORTS ALTS BANDAI SNOW PARK & RESORT

(0242) 74-5000 www.alts.co.jp

Dec. 23 - late Mar. 8:30-21:00 (17:30-21:00)

With 30K of rideable terrain, nearly 30 courses and progressive free-style parks, it is no surprise ALTS is a favorite of many of the top park riders in Japan. The resort is the largest in southern Tohoku and was the home to the Asia Open. ALTS has a Cat Ski area on the west side of the resort where visitors can enjoy some deep turns. Slide into Yama Cafe for a drink or relax in the hotel's great hot springs. ALTS is a southfacing resort, so it’s bright and features some nice terrain for free riding, but powder lovers will want to head next door to north-facing Nekoma. This year, a route connecting ALTS and Nekoma will open so you can reach Nekoma within a 15-minute walk.

ACCESS By Train: 90 minutes from Tokyo Station to Koriyama Station By Car: 75 minutes from Fukushima International Airport.

Grandeco Snow Resort

(0241) 32-2530 www.grandeco.com 17:00

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Grandeco Snow Resort is a medium-sized resort with first-rate facilities, which include a gondola and express chairlifts and artificial snow-making capabilities to guarantee early and late-season riding. There is also a luxury hotel and SIA certified Snow Academy. Although the resort is best suited for beginners and intermediate riders, there are tree runs for advanced riders and a well maintained park. Gran Deco is one of the highest resorts in the area, which means good quality snow. The nearby Hotel Gran Deco has westernstyle rooms, an indoor and outdoor swimming pool (open in winter),

Zao-machi, Miyagi youtube.com/c/gonorthjapan

(0261) 75-2101 www.hakubagoryu.com/e/index.html

Dec. 9 - May 7 8:00 -16:50 (18:00 - 21:30)

Part of Hakuba Valley Resorts, Hakuba Goryu is one of the most scenic and pleasant places to ski. Soak up the view as the Japan Alps soar behind you, and then head down to Escal Plaza, one of the best base lodges in Japan. There is a ski/snowboard rental shop, a nice selection of restaurants and even a bath open until 9 p.m. daily. The Toomi Piste is open until 9:30 p.m. If you’re on a tight budget, there is a “resting room” where you can wait for the lifts to open. It’s a common space that fits up to 100 people (no reservations required). Serious skiers can challenge themselves on the Champions expert run. Hakuba Goryu also shares a common lift pass with Hakuba 47.

(0261) 72-3066 www.happo-one.jp

Dec. 9 - May 7 8:00 - 21:00 (17:00 - 21:00)

Hakuba 47 is a relatively new resort (opened in 1990), and they’ve been trying to take some fresh, progressive steps to making a better resort experience. There are loads of activities and events, an extensive snow park with lots of jibs, kickers and things to launch off, and a great half pipe. The resort also has some excellent intermediate courses, a challenging mogul course and a shared ticket with Goryu, so no shortage of courses from which to choose. If you were wondering about the name, the goal of the resort is to offer a great mountain experience “4” seasons and “7” days a week.

Happo is a huge resort that is heaven for skiers who enjoy well-groomed, long courses. There are many runs, good challenging terrain and a nice park and the Hakuba Banks Park opens on Feb. 1. Happo hosted the downhill races during the 1998 Olympics and, if you want to test your meddle, head to the top of the men’s downhill course. While advanced riders will love Happo, beginners may get frustrated with the many narrow paths leading down the mountain. If you need a break, there are plenty of restaurants to stop for a bite. Note the resort’s popularity means it can get crowded, especially on long weekends.

If the crowds at Happo are too much for you, head over to nearby Iwatake. The base of the resort looks up at Hakuba’s highest peaks for a spectacular view while you enjoy the slopes. The resort itself is surprisingly big, making it a great place to go to get away from the crowds and explore the 26 courses. Lift lines are relatively short by Hakuba standards, and you can often find some pockets of powder here after it has been tracked out at other resorts nearby.

ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hour,

Hakuba Cortina Ski Resort

If you are looking for a place to spend a quiet, romantic ski weekend in the Hakuba area, head over to Cortina. The massive Green Plaza Hotel with northern European architecture is impressive. If your ski partner is just starting out, the course right outside the door of the hotel is a gentle slope and great for beginners. Although most of the runs are in the beginner to intermediate range, there are some steep courses, and they have adopted a progressive approach to tree skiing and power areas in which guests are responsible for themselves if they get into trouble. The Hakuba Cortina Resort also offers a convenient shuttle from Nagano Station (one-way, 1,000 yen).

ACCESS By Train: From Shinjuku to Minami Otari: 4 hours (By Azusa) By Car: 90 minutes from Nagano I.C. to hotel

Hakuba Tsugaike Kogen

(0261) 83-2515 www.tsugaike.gr.jp

Dec. 18 - May 8 8:00 - 17:00 (8:00 - 20:50 on Sat.)

Tsugaike is actually located in Otari Village, just up the road from Hakuba. The resort could be considered one of the most underrated, considering it has some huge bowls, a big gondola, terrain park, cross-country course, good night skiing and some interesting runs. There are even heli-skiing tours in spring and good places to hike to get fresh turns. The Children’s Square is great for kids just starting out on the slopes. Most of Tsugaike’s runs are in the intermediate range, but there are a few expert areas as well. To finish off a great day, head over to Tsuga no Yu hot springs, just 100 meters from the gondola.

ACCESS

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hour, 45 minutes), then a shuttle to Hakuba Cortina (80 minutes)

MT. NORIKURA

(0263) 93-2645 www.brnorikura.jp

Dec. 3 - early Apr. 8:45 - 16:30

The base of Mt. Norikura (not to be confused with the smaller Hakuba Norikura) starts at 1,500 meters, meaning the snow quality is excellent, and you’ll spend more time riding than in lift lines. It is a relatively small, local resort, yet the dedicated locals have created a progressive and challenging terrain park and good facilities for beginners to learn to ride. There is no ATM, so bring cash or your credit card and make sure to pack chains or have a 4WD, since Norikura is nestled deep in the Northern Alps. After a day on the mountain, don’t miss the great rotenburo at Yukemurikan.

Okushiga Kogen

Yakebitaiyama

Yama no Kami

Ichinose Family

Tanne no Mori

Diamond from late November to early May. Shiga Kogen hosted the women’s downhill, slalom, the super giant slalom and both snowboarding events for the 1998 Nagano Olympic Winter Games.

With more than 80 accommodations scattered around the area, there is no shortage of places to stay, although it has retained an “old school” feel with most restaurants found inside hotels; some serving Shiga Kogen’s excellent microbrew. There are many onsen in the area to soak in after a day on the mountain, yet the most famous in the area is off-limits to humans. Jigokudani Yaen Koen is a sanctuary for resident snow monkeys that lounge in their own hot springs, while visitors snap away with their cameras.

Shiga Kogen has limited ATM access (ATM is available at the Shiga Kogen Post Office in the Hasuike area), so bring some cash.

Starting this year, a common ski lift pass will be available for Shiga Kogen Resort’s 13 ski areas which are part of the “Shiga Kogen Resort Chuo Area.” These resorts include Sun Valley, Maruike, Hasuike, Giant, Happo Bunahira, Higashi Tateyama, Teragoya, Takamahara

Terakoya

Hoppo Bunadaira, Higashidateyama, Nishidateyama

Okushiga Kogen is known as “Skiers Paradise” as it remains a skiers-only resort, (along with Kumanoyu), while Yakebitaiyama is a Prince Resort with excellent facilities. The Hoppo Bunadaira area is great for beginners and families with small children while Higashidateyama is best suited for advanced skiers, although there is a gentle woodland course as well. The resort hosted the men’s and women’s giant slalom in the 1998 Olympic Games, and it boasts an extremely challenging downhill course. The restaurant at the summit of Mt. Higashidate boasts incredible panoramic views and is the starting point to get to other ski areas such as Terakoya.

ACCESS By Train and Bus: 110 minutes from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station, then bus (70 minutes) to Shiga Kogen resorts

HOPPO BUNADAIRA - HIGASHITATEYAMA - NISHITATEYAMA

(0269) 34-2301 https://shigakogen.co.jp

Nov. 26 - May 7 8:30 - 16:30

Kids ¥2,700

ACCESS By Train: 90 minutes from Tokyo Stn. to Nagano Stn. By Car: 300 minutes from Tokyo

Yakebitaiyama

(0269) 34-3117 www.princehotels.co.jp/ski/shiga/winter

Dec. 3 - May 7 8:30 - 16:00 (18:00 - 20:00)

1 DAY TICKET Adults ¥5,300 Kids FREE

ACCESS By Train: 110 minutes from Tokyo Stn. to Nagano Stn. By Car: 300 minutes from Tokyo

Okushiga Kogen Ski Field

(0269) 34-2225 http://en.okushiga.jp

Mid-Dec. - early May 7:30 - 16:30

1 DAY TICKET Adults ¥6,000 Kids ¥3,000

ACCESS By Train: 110 minutes from Tokyo Stn. to Nagano Stn. By Car: 300 minutes from Tokyo

Nozawa Onsen

(0269) 85-3166 www.nozawaski.com

Nov. 26 - May 7 8:30 - 17:00 (16:30 - 20:00)

If you’re looking for the quintessential Japanese ski experience, Nozawa Onsen is hard to beat. This traditional hot spring village sits at the base of a great mountain (Mt. Kenashi, 1,650m). The resort is one of the oldest ski grounds in Japan, getting consistent snowfall. There are two gondolas and a large selection of courses to choose from. The town also features 30 hot springs scattered around the village (including 13 free baths in town) and the Dosojin Matsuri (Fire Festival) held on Jan. 15, which is a spectacle to behold.

ACCESS By Train: Tokyo Station to Nagano Station by Shinkansen (109 minutes), then Iiyama Line to Togari-Nozawa Onsen St. (60 minutes) and taxi or shuttle bus to Nozawa Onsen. By Car: 75 minutes from Nagano Station

Madarao Mountain Resort

(0269) 64-3214 www.madarao.jp 17:00

Located in northeastern Nagano just above Iiyama Town, Madarao Kogen features 16 lifts and 22 courses across a bowl-shaped terrain on Mt. Madarao (1,382 meters). The resort has a nice variety of courses, groomers, a tree run area, free ride park, wave courses and kids park. They claim 60 percent of the course is ungroomed so, if you like riding powder, there should be plenty in which to play. There is also a joint ticket available for Tangram Ski Circus, a small, pretty resort. Backcountry tours can be arranged through the resort.

ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Iiyama Station (100 minutes) then take a bus to Madarao Kogen Hotel (30 minutes)

Tangram Madarao

(026) 258-3511 www.tangram.jp/eng

Dec. 17 - Apr. 2 8: 30 - 16: 30 (17:30 - 20:30)

Tangram Ski Circus sounds like a great place for kids—and it is. The ski-in/out Hotel Tangram sits right at the bottom of this family-friendly resort. Facilities include hot spring baths and a heated indoor swimming pool. The resort features 14 courses on the northwest side of Mt. Madarao, with well-groomed runs, great for mom and dad to get in some leg burners with the kids. The trees look tempting, but beware the ski patrol is vigilant here. However the resort is connected to Madarao Kogen, giving you 30 courses to explore if you get bored with the runs right outside your door.

ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagano City (1 hour, 28 minutes) then by bus to Tangram Madarao

Togakushi Ski Field

(026) 254-2106 www.togakusi.com

Dec. 10 - Mar. 31 8:30 - 16:30

Togakushi is an interesting, medium-sized resort. The name “Togakushi” means “hidden door,” it derived from the Japanese myth and the resort is owned by Nagano City, yet it is still relatively unknown to people outside the area. The best way to describe Togakushi is pleasant. The conditions always seem to be pretty good, course is variegated and there are often great powder days. Best of all, it never seems to get as busy as the more popular Nagano resorts, and it has retained a very local feel. Togakushi Village is in itself an interesting place. It is famous for soba, and there are some beautiful shrines, temples and onsen nearby to finish off a great day on the mountain.

ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hour, 30 minutes), then less than 1 hour to Togakushi by bus

HOUDAIGI

(0278) 75-2557 www.hodaigi.jp

Dec. 10 - early Apr. 8:30 - 16:30

While neighboring Niigata gets most of the attention, Gunma quietly has some great snow resorts of its own. Located in northeast Gunma near the border with Niigata, Minakami has 10 ski resorts and is just 90 minutes from Tokyo. Oze Katashina is another quality area that flies under the radar. Katashina Town lies in the shadows of mighty Mt. Hotaka and Mt. Shirane and features nearby resorts such as the popular Oze Iwakura, Hotaka Bokujo, a boarder’s park, and Oguna Hotaka, a nice mid-sized resort. Manza, to the east of Katashina, the popular ski and onsen areas of Manza and Kusatsu Resort & Spa are great places to relax before or after a good day on the mountain.

Okutone Snow Park

(0278) 72-8101 www.okutone.jp

Dec. 17 - Apr. 2 8:00 - 22:00 (weekends & holidays 6:00 - 24:00) (17:00-22:00) (Until 24:00 on Fridays, Saturdays, and the days before National Holidays)

Minakami Houdaigi ski resort is the largest in the Minakami area. The resort, due to the higher elevation, also gets good quality snow. Although there are many beginner and intermediate runs, there are a few advanced courses as well, including a killer 40-degree slope and a 2,600-meter cruiser.

ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen to Jomo Kogen (75 minutes) then bus to Houdaigi (70 minutes)

(0278)-72-6688 www.norn.co.jp

Dec. 19 - Mar. 26 8:00 - 22:00/24:00 (16:30 - 24:00)

If rails, pipes and jumps are your thing, Okutone ski area is the place to go in Minakami. The park staff takes good care of guests who come to perfect their style at the resort’s park. The night sessions are popular, since they keep the lights on until midnight on Friday and Saturday nights and before national holidays. The north-facing courses have nice snow quality, and you can enjoy some turns on the 3,900-meter long course. Okutone is just two hours from Tokyo, making it super convenient. They offer free tickets to kids under 12 and free coffee if you come before 10 a.m. on weekdays.

ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen to Jomo Kogen (75 minutes) then bus to Okutone (40 minutes)

Tenjindaira

(0278) 72-3575 www.tanigawadake-rw.com

Dec.1 - Apr. 16 8:30 - 16:30

Situated just three kilometers from the Minakami Interchange, Norn Minakami is the most convenient of the Minakami Resorts if you are coming by car. The resort is great for families. They’ve created “family zones” where the average slope is just 13 degrees and a Day Care Center where parents can drop off the little ones and enjoy some time on the mountain themselves. Norn is open from 7 a.m. to midnight on weekends, so you can enjoy a long day on the slopes and, like all Minakami resorts, it is not far from some great hot springs.

Although Tenjindaira is better known to most for trekking in summer, when the tram is packed with hikers, the resort is a popular stop on the backcountry trail. The resort itself is relatively small, but lift lines are usually short and the snow quality can be excellent if it’s not too windy up top. However, the secret to “Tenjin” is off the main trails. Those who like their riding steep and deep head for the backcountry. This is “enter at your own risk” territory and not a place to go without avalanche gear (and the knowledge how to use it). Better yet, hire one of the knowledgeable local guides and enjoy some "Japow!"

ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen to Takasaki Station, then change to the Joetsu Line to Minakami Station,

(0278) 52-3345 www.kawaba.co.jp

Dec. 3 - mid-Apr. 8:30 - 16:00

There’s something different about Kawaba. You’ll notice it the first time you pull into the covered parking area of the eight-story Kawaba City center house. There are six floors of parking and the seventh and eighth floors are filled with restaurants and ski/board shops. On the mountain, Kawaba is progressive as well with a nice balance of park and powder. Within the 10,790 meters of skiable terrain is the “Powder Zone,” a section of the mountain left ungroomed for powder lovers. There is a good mogul course, the Free Ride Park (back by popular demand) and a 3,300-meter trail for cruising. Kawaba City also includes a ski school, kids corner and locker rooms.

ACCESS By Train and Shuttle Bus: Shinkansen to Jomo Kogen (75 minutes), then a 50-minute shuttle bus ride to Kawaba

Kusatsu Onsen

(0279) 88-8111 www.932-onsen.com

Dec. 17 - Apr. 2 8:30 - 21:00 (17:00 - 21:00)

Although Kusatsu is famous as one of the country’s best onsen resorts, the area also features a quality ski resort that has been around since the Taisho Era and is open nearly six months out of the year. Kusatsu Snow & Spa has a zipline, Kids Square where the little ones can enjoy activities such as snow tubing, and a variety of courses for all levels. However, the best part of being at Kusatsu is the fact you can enjoy some world-famous hot springs after a great day on the mountain.

ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen to Karuizawa Station from Tokyo (72 minutes), then 55 min. by direct bus from Karuizawa Station

Manza Onsen

(0279) 97-3117 www.princehotels.co.jp/ski/manza/winter

Dec. 24 - Mar. 26 8:30 - 16:30

Manza Onsen is another of Prince Resorts signature properties, and the hotel’s buildings command an imposing presence at the bottom of the hill. The resort features a lot of good beginner and intermediate runs and is a great place for families. There are not a lot of challenging runs for advanced skiers, but the scenery is beautiful, the snow quality excellent as it is one of Japan’s highest resorts and the hotel has a nice rotenburo (outdoor bath) for after-ski soaking. The facilities and amenities are on a par with what you’d expect from Prince Resorts, making for a stress-free ski experience.

ACCESS By Train & Bus: Shinkansen to Takasaki Station (50 minutes) then to Manza-kazawaguchi Station (90 minutes). Then change to the Seibu Kanko Bus to Manza Onsen (50 minutes).

Oze Iwakura

(0278) 58-7777 www.oze-iwakura.co.jp/ski Dec. 17 - Apr. 2

8:15 - 17:00 (17:00 - 21:00)

1 DAY TICKET Adults ¥5,000 Kids ¥2,900

Oze Iwakura is only 150 minutes from Tokyo and one of the top ski resorts in the Kanto region for its variety of slopes and powder snow especially at the 1,700-meter peak. There are 16 courses for all levels of riding, and a kids park. There are also six uncompacted snow courses for powderhounds. Advanced riders can hike up Nishiyama and enjoy backcountry skiing. There are two ski-in, ski-out hotels on the slopes. After a day of riding, relax in hot springs and enjoy Japanese culture. From Tokyo, take a direct highway bus from Shinjuku or a shuttle bus from Jomokogen Station.

ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen to Jomo Kogen (75 minutes) then by bus to Oze Iwakura (80 min.)

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