Issue 10.4
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A DECADE AGO, “I DREAMED OF LUCASZ. ” gokite milepost graphiccontent Fill happens. Photo: Rex D. Wylde
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These days, I “thank Heaven for the Hales1.”
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“Lucasz” — if you’re one of the few who remembers — graced this very page in our very first issue. Back then, the handsome Polish immigrant seemed to epitomize our burgeoning mag’s rally cry, “Stuck here on purpose.” He’d been on the Outer Banks maybe five years, working multiple gigs to eke out a year-round living — from lifeguarding to cleaning pools to installing satellite dishes — and smiling every damn minute. This summer, all that labor paid off when he opened his own thriving ice cream shop, a shining example of how welcoming the Outer Banks is, and how sweet life can be, if you’ve got the salty determination to put down roots.
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The Hales? They’re my neighbors. Instead of arriving at 19, they showed up at 67. Rather than immigrating from Eastern Europe, they drove down from Virginia. And while Lucasz may have juggled five jobs to find his feet, the Hales are retired, lifetime educators. Both — as the saying goes — “Got here as soon as they could.” But it’s the Hales who better reflect what’s to come. At least I hope they do. To be honest, when I first saw a trailer drop that yellow dozer onto the empty lot across the street circa 2015, I winced. And when I heard the opening salvo of tree limbs snapping, I cursed — loud — then twice more for each root ball that came crunching from the ground. From there, every piling that pounded into the sand — each nail gun that
popped — felt like a punch to the gut. A sign that life as we knew it was over. After all, between wooded surroundings and part time renters, we’d had nearly the whole block to ourselves for ten years. In the offseason, we hosted parties that rumbled the porches. Come summer, if the towel went missing from our outdoor shower, we could streak into the house without a lick of worry or shame. So, when two strange seniors said they were trying on beach life for size, I secretly hoped they’d spend more time at their primary residence.
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EVERY PILING FELT LIKE A PUNCH TO THE GUT.
But not for long. Within six months, they knew they were staying. And I’m damn thankful for it. Every summer, Ms. Hale brings my family ripened tomatoes. Mr. Hale? He fixes everything I can’t — which is basically everything — from a teetering mail post to a sputtering mower. But it’s the things they do for themselves that bring me the most joy. Bert2, he’s out on the boat slaying fish in the sound. Pat3 is either nurturing plants or tutoring grandkids. Proof this was never really a test run, or even a permanent vacation. It’s home. Over the past two years, there’s been more and more of that tree-crunching sound on our block. And each time, we’ve gotten off easy. We got a local restaurateur who simply
switched addresses. A pair of hospital workers from PA, with matching Jeeps to fuel their beach-driving passion. A third is a telecommuter from NOVA who moved down to surf. He’s closer to 40 than 20. Works with computers instead of his hands. But his back-up rig is a vintage Bronco. And during Hurricane Larry, I saw a leash dangling from his mailbox — as if a friend had returned it after a session. A clear sign he’s more than willing to share the stoke. None are exactly the same, but together they represent the new normal when it comes to new faces. Because, like it or not, as our population booms, and prices spike, the folks filling our neighborhoods will no longer be broke collegeage transplants, banging nails and serving plates as they find their feet. More likely, they will have showed up secure in their jobs, either here or remotely. Many might be done working altogether. But while they may not be building their whole lives, they will be looking to build new ones. Just like every wave of immigrants that came before them. This fall, that horrible, heart-wrenching sound came again — twice. As I write this, a pair of lots within spitting distance are stripped bare. I have no idea who the owners are or what they’ll do. And I have no control over it. But if they came here to fish, to surf — to just play outdoors and take in the salt air — then I’ll have no cause to complain. — Matt Walker 1. Totally not their real names, but the rest is all true. (Or close to it.) 2. Still not a real name 3. Nope again.
Thank you for reading Outer Banks Milepost. We hope you enjoy it. If not — before chucking this issue into the nearest dumpster — please consider one of the following equally satisfying ways of expressing your disgust: scrawl angry hate mail on the margins and send it to your least favorite developer; make a papier-mâché live oak and rip it up, roots and all. Or simply toss it on that six-month stack of newspapers you’ve yet to recycle. (Trust us, you’ll feel better.) Then, send any and all feedback — positive, negative or just plain confused — to: editor@outerbanksmilepost.com. We promise to find some way to re-purpose them. milepost 3
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Outer Banks Milepost is published quarterly (sorterly) by Suite P Inc. All contents are the property of Suite P Inc. and do not reflect the opinion of advertisers or distributors. Nor do their contents reflect that of the creative types (who would never, ever sell out). Comments, letters and submissions are usually welcome. Please include SASE for return delivery of all snail mail, however, Milepost and Suite P Inc. still aren’t responsible for any unsolicited materials. And don’t expect much else to move much faster than IST (Island Standard Time). Oh yeah: if you reprint a lick of this content you’re ripping us off. (Shame on you.) To discuss editorial ideas, find out about advertising or tell us we blew it – or just find out what the waves are doing – call 252-441-6203 or email: editor@outerbanksmilepost.com; sales@outerbanksmilepost.com. www.outerbanksmilepost.com
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“Ocracoke Bay Bridge Tunnel” By Rob Snyder www.blackbarrel.com
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03 StartingPoint ”Hales, yeah!”
06 UpFront Rising populations, floating school buses, and an upside-down Billy. 19 Gone Global Tracking four Outer Bankers’ international spheres of influence. 24 G raphicContent Testing new boundaries. 30 GetActive One housing crisis everyone can help. 32 FirstPerson From Berlin, with love — and chocolate.
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Daily Specials On The Beach Road MP 11 Nags Head 441-RAWW • TortugasLie.com •
34 FoodDrink Palate, meet planet. 37 SoundCheck More proof that music is universal. 38 ArtisticLicense Rob Snyder reimagines our world.
THE ORIGINAL Since the 60’s
41 OutThere A winter’s horse tale. 42 EndNotes See what events wait over the horizon. “I’ve been here for almost 50 years. So, I’ve seen a lot of changes. But I’m still incredibly inspired by this place and its beauty, and I try to emulate that in my work. This piece kind of came together as I was trying to develop an idea for what the Outer Banks could look like as time goes on. So, I wanted to face a little reality — that it’s a shifting sandbar, and we’re eroding. But I still believe all that doesn’t have to be negative. We could enhance the area. We could see more wildlife and some nice architecture. So hopefully people come away from it with a good feeling. Because even though things are different — and maybe we’re accommodating more people and we have more convenience — the essence of this place is still the same. And we’re all gonna still want to live here.” — Rob Snyder
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upfront soundcheck IT’S ANYBODY’S GUESS Just how many folks moved here permanently in the past year?
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People. More and more people. On roads. In restaurants. Clogging doctors’ offices and classrooms. Buying homes and building houses. Ever since COVID hit, it feels like the Outer Banks’ population has more than exploded. Enough new faces to make some folks panic. In fact, as we headed into our traditional “slow” season, just how many year-rounders we added was a prime topic of local gossip, where estimates grew with each passing day.
But typical of the infamous Outer Banks’ rumor mill, there’s a degree of truth amid the wild talk.
says the past year has seen a number startingpoint Sproul of surges, mostly due to the pandemic —
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“I heard 5,000 new residents in the past year,” says the lady tending bar. “My realtor buddy said 10,000,” the server responds.
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And every grizzled patron within earshot grumbles into their beer. But ask Ben Sproul — Mayor of Kill Devil Hills and a property manager at Surf or Sound Realty in Avon — and he’ll say both numbers “seem a little implausible.” And when you consider the latest data, he’s probably right.
more visitation; more national attention; more people traveling, buying and selling; more remote working; more life-changing upheaval in general. “It’s a churn thing, predominantly,” he says. “It’s going in all directions.”
And that churn makes trends even more difficult to track. Have younger people moved here permanently — or temporarily? Are retirees staying at their vacation homes forever — or just for longer? It’s safe to say more people are here; whether they’re putting down roots is harder to answer. And even the numbers we can usually count on don’t necessarily tell the whole story.
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In April 2010, the U.S Census recorded 33,920 residents in Dare County and 36,915 in April 2020. That’s about a nine percent increase over a decade — just shy of 3,000 bodies. It’s doubtful we doubled that number — much less tripled it — inside the following 18 months.
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For instance, the number of primary addresses for parcels recorded by the Dare County tax office for 2020-2021 increased by just 168 over the previous fiscal year — and that figure does not tell us whether or not the owners are living at the location full-time. Likewise, new student enrollments in Dare County Schools are squishy and not all that overwhelming.
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According to Keith Parker, Dare County Schools’ digital communications and secondary school director, new enrollments actually went down compared to last year. For grades 1-12 (not including kindergarten), there were 414 arrivals as of October 11, 2021; for the 2020-21 school year, new enrollments were 466. And total enrollment only slightly increased: at the end of last school year, grades K-12 was 5018; as of October 11, 2021, total enrollment among that same group was 5120. “That’s pretty typical of what we’ve been running for the last couple of years,” Parker says. “Our enrollment does fluctuate, of course, with people moving in and out of the district.” Also, those figures don’t necessarily reflect residents coming or going, since they don’t account for situations that arose due to the virus, such as students entering or leaving classrooms due to homeschooling. Voter registrations are also an imperfect indicator, as newcomers tend to settle down a bit before they re-register. However, the Dare County Board of Elections figures do show an increase. On October 12, 2019, there were 28,892 registered voters in Dare County; on October 17, 2020, there were 29,910; and, on October 14, 2021, there were 30,279 registered voters in the county. But again, how many of these voters just moved to town — and how many just turned 18? Nationally, trends still point to an overall
uptick. An April 2021 article in Bloomberg City Lab noted that, between March 2020 and February 2021, three percent of people in the US permanently moved to a new location — with North Carolina among the top five states. And an article published in The New York Times, in April 2021, noted that “inmigration” rose in vacation areas across the country during the pandemic, and specifically mentioned the Outer Banks alongside places like Cape Cod and Wasatch County, Utah. But the article also noted that trend began before the pandemic. Still, at a gut level, everyone agrees we’re busier than ever. ( Just try and get in to see your mechanic, doctor or haircare professional.) But even businesses and services that keep strict records can’t always say just what the past year’s increases mean for the county as a whole. “I’m not sure if we’re getting more patients for their first visit, because we can’t really take any more,” said James Woodson, a Nags Head dentist. Still, he said that “probably about 90 percent of our new patients are new to the area.” For how long? No one can say for sure. But Richard Hess, senior broker associate with Sun Realty, says he has no doubt that there are more people moving permanently to the Outer Banks. “Oh yeah,” says Hess, who until recently was the chairman of the board of the Outer Banks Chamber of Commerce. “Last year, we
sold tons of properties to people relocating here. They were buying what had been vacation rental properties.” He says people are purchasing houses or condominiums that had always been in weekly rental programs and are either living in them full-time while working remotely or moving in part-time and commuting. “They’re all saying the same thing,” Hess notes. “‘If you can work from home, why not live at the beach?’”
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IN THE NEXT FOUR YEARS, 36.2 MILLION U.S. WORKERS ARE ANTICIPATED TO BE WORKING REMOTELY. — AN 87 PERCENT INCREASE.
And that’s another national trend on the rise. According to Upwork’s 2020 “Future of Workforce Pulse Report,” one in four Americans were estimated to be working from home in 2021. As a result, the report adds, 14 to 23 million people made plans to move in 2021 to take advantage of remote work opportunities. And while COVID may have been the catalyst for more telecommuters, in the next four years, 36.2 million U.S. workers are anticipated to be working remotely — an 87 percent increase from pre-pandemic levels.
But Sproul says he sees signs of possible cooling to come. As a self-described data geek, he looked at data that reflected a similar churn induced by the 1918 pandemic, when “a ton of people” also migrated around and started new jobs before things calmed down. He also believes the coming offseason won’t be so crazy with visitors, either. “I don’t think that we’ll be at 50-70 percent in the beginning of November,” Sproul says of visitation capacity. “It’s going to settle a little bit.” It’s likely we won’t know the full impact of the COVID immigration craze until folks have a chance to decide how much they really like it here. That might take a year or two. (Or, as some snarkier pundits like to point out, “Wait ’til we get a real storm.”) But there’s likely more folks to follow. According to Hess, many of the people who bought houses and didn’t move here permanently are just sitting on their vacation homes until they retire. Or plan to use it whenever it’s not rented. One thing’s certain: few are predicting a serious decrease in the Outer Banks’ population in the years to come. As to those dreamy Novembers and Decembers of yore? That easy-paced, empty-streeted offseason of the seemingly distant past? As Hess says: “It’s gone.” — Catherine Kozak
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Not-so-rushed hour. Photo: Tommy Forrest/AP/NC Archives
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On November 5, 1982, the tug Columbia was pushing a barge under the William B. Umstead Bridge when a cable snapped, and the vessel struck the span’s center section. Sixteen pilings were so damaged in the mishap that officials deemed the structure unsafe. Or, as Marc Basnight, then a member of NC’s Board of Transportation, put it: “The collision damn near took the bridge out.”
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Travel between Roanoke Island and Manns Harbor got tricky. Those who were fortunate enough to have access to a boat enjoyed private passage across the sound. The rest relied on other means.
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The other time a boat collision stopped bridge traffic.
graphiccontent gosurf outthere Find it all in
The sea, the sound, and a world of possibilites in between.
gohunt rearview Year after year, visitors have enjoyed our walkable village, top-notch restaurants and remarkable shops. Discover community events, walking trails, a kayak launch, and the boardwalk at the Town Park in the heart of Duck.
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Most locals know about “The Day the Ship Hit the Span.” Early on the morning of October 26, 1990, the dredge Northerly Isle broke free from its mooring and struck the Herbert C. Bonner Bridge. The impact sent a 369-foot section plunging into the roiling waters of Oregon Inlet, halting travel to and from Hatteras Island — and making national headlines in the process. But another, lesser-known maritime collision occurred eight years earlier, only this time it stranded Dare County’s mainland communities.
Since several residents from the villages of East Lake, Stumpy Point and Manns Harbor worked on Roanoke Island, a special water taxi was pressed into use. The headboat Crystal Dawn ferried employees from Manns Harbor to Pirate’s Cove Marina, where assistant county manager Terry Wheeler sat at the wheel of a Manteo High School activity bus, ready to chauffer them for the last part of their commute. Attending school proved more problematic. Elementary students went to Manns Harbor, where a makeshift classroom was set up at the Community Building. Volunteers worked to spruce up the facility. Churches donated furniture. Pupils were asked to pack their own
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lunches. Older kids, however, still had to reach their desks in Manteo. Luckily, some Roanoke Island families offered to house mainland students until the bridge could be repaired. The rest boarded school buses for ferry rides across the sound — two hours each way. “The normal bus ride from Stumpy Point was an hour one way, so we were used to riding for long periods,” recalls Lee Wise, who was a 16-year-old sophomore at the time. “Our bus driver (Marjorie Midgett) told us to bring something to pass the time, such as playing cards or something to read. I don’t remember much horseplay. With only older kids on the bus, it was a little calmer than usual.”
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SCHOOL BUSES RODE FERRIES ACROSS THE SOUND — TWO HOURS EACH WAY
Disposing of garbage required even more patience. The World War II-era landing vessels first placed into emergency service weren’t capable of taking trash trucks aboard. As a stopgap measure, a temporary disposal site was established near the Dare County Airport. Citizens were also encouraged to compost and refrain from throwing away boxes and paper. Meanwhile, residents adapted in other ways, like postponing doctor’s visits, or driving west for groceries. When additional vessels were finally procured on November 12, ten round-trip ferries were offered daily between the Dare County Airport and the DOT Shipyard at Manns Harbor.
However, commuters were still urged to carpool to reduce the number of vehicles vying for passage. Large trucks were asked to “drive around,” as they took up as many as six spaces. Two weeks later, after DOT workers built a new ramp at the old ferry dock road in Manns Harbor, larger, Hatteras-style ferries went into service and were able to carry 22 cars per trip. Hourly voyages ran from 6am to 7pm. Fortunately, the U.S. Department of Transportation stepped in with a $1 million emergency grant to cover ferry service and bridge repair. McLean Construction Company of Baltimore was awarded the contract to fix the span. In addition to their $387,000 bid, the firm was offered $4,500 a day for each day the job was completed ahead of the January 31 deadline, $4,500 being the cost of providing the emergency ferry service. It worked. On the evening of December 31, the bridge reopened a month early. After eight weeks of riding boats, residents were more than ready to drive to Manteo — or at least return to regular life. “Overall, it was an interesting time,” Wise recalls. “But we were glad when it was back to normal.” — Sarah Downing Sources include: “DOT Ferries Operate 10 Trips Daily to Mainland,” Coastland Times, Nov. 16, 1982; “Mainland Pitches In: Citizens Rally to Cope with Travel, School Problems,” Coastland Times, Nov. 11, 1982; “Span Closed for an Extended Period,” News and Observer, Nov. 8, 1982; “Umstead Bridge Closed Indefinitely Following Crash,” Coastland Times, Nov. 9, 1982; email from Harold Lee Wise, July 22, 2021; Daily Reflector Negative Collection (#741), East Carolina Manuscript Collection, J. Y. Joyner Library, East Carolina University, Greenville, North Carolina.
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upfront soundcheck getactive startingpoint roadmap gokite A cheering, jeering look at recent events and their potential milepost impacts.
AMELIA DEARHEART Aviation aficionados found a new darling this Aug. when Zara Rutherford stopped over in KDH on her mission to become the youngest woman to fly solo around the world. The 19-year-old Belgian didn’t need to touch down — she just needed to eat — but she felt obligated to tip her wings at the Birthplace of Aviation, leaving locals inspired by her bravery and humility on her way to hopefully land in the Guinness Book of World Records. RUBBER SOULS Talk about feeling deflated. Imagine working to feed nearly 50,000 hungry neighbors — including 15,000 kids — then waking up to find someone’s hobbled
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your efforts? That’s what happened to the Food Bank of the Albemarle in Sept., when vandals flattened tires on six delivery vehicles used to serve 100 partner agencies. At press time, authorities hadn’t caught up with the culprits, but let’s hope someone eventually runs them down — literally. SHELL OF A GOOD YEAR What do locals and sea turtles have in common? They both love the sleepier beaches. In Sept., we learned that US Fish and Wildlife counted 47 nests on Pea Island this season — 45 Loggerheads and two Green Sea Turtles — the highest total in 41 years. Meanwhile, Cape Hatteras National Seashore documented three Kemp’s Ridley nests — the world’s rarest, and smallest, sea turtle of all — including an Ocracoke nest that had 120 hatchlings. Here’s to seeing more of these flippered visitors crowding our coast.
STOP THINKING ABOUT TOMORROW? Cue the Fleetwood Mac! The whole beach seemed to sing “You must never break the chain” this fall as Southern Shores announced they’d be adding a Marshall’s — and losing a beloved bagel shop. Meanwhile, in KDH, a new Starbuck’s sent a tienda to Kitty Hawk. And don’t forget Target, which may preserve a building but has the potential to demolish many more bizzes. For a community once defined by one-of-a-kind, indie entrepreneurism, one lyric hits even closer to home: “Yesterday’s gone…yesterday’s gone…” IN MEMORIAM Five years after being saved from rising waters, Salvo’s Community Cemetery now has a new way to protect its history, all thanks to photographer Justin Cook. The Durham lensman with Stumpy Point ties spent 2020 capturing the impacts of sea level rise on folks Down South, including
documenting the burial site — and the tales of local residents. Now, a banner of images and tales surrounds the property to preserve those memories. HERD THAT! Currituck commissioners got an earful in Sept., when a handful of Carova homeowners asked them to reign in wild horse tour operations. According to naysayers, dozens of trucks per day are ruining the vibe and rutting the roads. On the other side of the corral, you’ve got longtime bizzes braying, “Whoa, buckaroos! Half y’all varmints just moved here!” But no matter which herd you belong to, it’s a sad sign that even “undeveloped beaches” can’t escape the friction that comes when different species compete for a resource. PREMIUM UGPRADE? When’s the newest version of an application not an improvement? When
you’re applying “Risk Rating 2.0” to local flooding. In Oct., we learned that the National Flood Insurance Program is implementing a new rating system to determine premiums, and the news ain’t good for coastal residents. Come Apr., rates stand to increase as much as 18 percent for primary residences and 25 percent for second homes. Costs will be based on the home’s value and distance from water — then inch up each year — so if you’re not sitting high and dry, you better be drowning in money. RAMPED UP Boaters got a new soundside access point Down South in Oct., when the RodantheWaves-Salvo Community Center opened a two-lane boat ramp behind their building. With space to accommodate about 16 trailered vehicles, it should lighten traffic — and tensions — as more options for putting in means fewer mariners feeling put out.
MARITIME HISTORY Ugly environmental hazard — or cool coastal attraction? Whatever your take, say goodbye to the Ocean Pursuit. Ever since the scallop vessel ran aground north of Oregon Inlet in Mar. 2020, it’s been a source of killer photos for some and constant frustration for others — particularly the National Park Service, who’ve been unable to get the captain to clean up his nautical mess. After watching it fall apart for 18 months, the NPS opted to begin dismantling the vessel before it could sink entirely — and pile on more expenses to remove. Still, it will cost taxpayers $300k — with no guarantee of ever recouping the money.
For detailed reports on these stories and breaking local news on a daily basis — plus plenty of local discussion — visit www.outerbanksvoice.com, www. islandfreepress.org, www.obxtoday.com, and www.thecoastlandtimes.com.
SMART-ASS COMMENT OF THE MONTH “If God was going to give an enema to the Outer Banks, the hose would enter through KDH.” — Zack Bass,
“KDH gives preliminary approval to unnamed new coffee shop (Starbucks?),” Aug. 8, 2021, OuterBanksVoice.com
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WHADDYA RECKON? soundcheck
We got questions — you got answers.
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Brenna Williamson, 23 Barista Kill Devil Hills “Five thousand…maybe? It just seems like there’s so many more people here now.”
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OVER 1,500
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Chris O’Brien, 55 Retired Educator Southern Shores “I know it’s about 500 because that’s how many new families came into the school system. But that doesn’t account for people like me, who retired and then moved here.”
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Katie Lewis, 33 Furniture Sales Grandy “Around 1000 to 2000. We do a lot of furnishing for homes, and the majority have been for full-time residences — not rentals like most years.”
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rearview TEAM RIDER: RYAN LEOPOLD PHOTO: CODY HAMMER
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Tiffany Lindsey, 21 Art Gallery Associate Kitty Hawk “Six hundred to 1000? In my little neighborhood alone, we had between five and 10 new people buy houses and move in. Every empty lot is getting built up now.”
How many people do YOU think have moved here since COVID? Bradley Cooper, 36 Hardware Store Associate Kitty Hawk “Just based on the percentage of people who work with me that have moved here full-time, I’d say 7800. In fact, I moved here from Raleigh when my girlfriend’s business expanded into the area.”
Julian McCarthy, 80 Wood Artist/Musician Stumpy Point “I can’t give you a solid number, but I’m out busking in public about three hours a week, and every time I meet at least one person who just moved here.”
Wendy Kmet, 55 Harbour Assoc. Rep Colington “I can’t give an exact number, but it feels like it’s a lot — probably a few thousand. I moved here during the pandemic, myself, because...why not?”
Tamarra Bowser, 39 Realtor Colington “Full-time, year-round? Maybe 2000? But, hey, if you’re thinking of moving, give me a call and I can help you find a house!” Interviews and images by Tony Leone
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MADE YOU LOOK Guess this weird piece of winter tech, win a wild horse tour from Corolla Outback Adventures!
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Will your reply pass the sniff test? Photo: Andrew Meyer
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This creature stretches the limits of wintertime fun. Gets thinner and lighter with each passing year, then puts on pounds within seconds. Comes with no fur, but still brings the heat — and the longer you wear it, the colder you get. Put on your thinking cap and squeeze out a guess, then send your answer and contact info to editor@outerbanksmilepost. com by Jan. 15. We’ll stuff all the correct responses in a frosty barrel and spit out one winner — who’ll win a fourperson horse tour from Corolla Outback Adventures!
PS: Congrats to Chloe Parnell for correctly guessing last issue’s puzzle: a sunflower stalk.
50 Local Artists
Pottery, Paintings, Glass, Mosaic, Ironwork, Jewelry, Textiles, Cards and Gifts. Something for Everyone! Milepost 8.5 Bypass KDH kdhcooperative.com 252-441-9888
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Long before 1985 when we opened up our first restaurant in Nags Head, we’ve held a passion for hospitality and entertaining with fine foods, great music and spirited libation. It has been our honor to serve this community, sharing in her growth and prosperity... the good times along with the occasional roughs. To our many supporters near and far, undying thanks for your patronage and friendships, and to all the well wishers wondering what’s next for us, let me just say...“we’ll see you at the parade.”
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G
GLOBAL gone
Marine scientists. Wave whisperers. Wildlife photogs. Concrete craftsmen. Meet four Outer Banks experts who share their knowledge with the world at-large — using skills they practice right here at home.
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Mr. Official. Korte came home with a grip of Olympic gear, including this suit. Photo: Chris Bickford
AN
How KDH’s Kurt Korte delivered a Gold-medal forecast for surfing’s Olympics debut.
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very Olympian knows one thing: when it’s your turn to shine, you better not choke. (Just ask Simone Biles.) Same goes for the folks behind the scenes, from the painter who stripes the swimming pool to the broadcast crew streaming the award ceremonies. And yet, not one of them understands the need to perform like Kill Devil Hills’ own Kurt Korte did in Tokyo this past summer. Because nobody’s ever felt that type of pressure before. “This was surfing’s Olympic debut,” says Korte, who served as the International Olympic Committee’s official Surf Forecaster. “So there was a bit of a learning curve. Because most sports, they know when they’ll run down to the second. With surfing, the ocean tells us when to run — the surf tells us when to run. Then that becomes, ‘Kurt, you tell us when the surf will be good, so we know when to run.’ [Laughs] So, yeah, that’s a little bit stressful. Because I f—kin’ hate it when I screw up a forecast.” Add a series of lead-up interviews with national outlets like NPR and the Associated Press — not to mention a New York Times profile titled “The Wave Whisperer” — and you could forgive the lifelong meteorologist for suffering his own case of “the Twisties.” But while it may have been Korte’s first Olympics — it’s hardly his first time on the world stage. As the Director of Atlantic forecasting for Surfline.com — the digital Duke Kahanamoku of wave prediction — the 16year vet’s helped predict the International Surfing Association’s World Surfing Games and been onsite for World Surf League Championship Tour events in Portugal and Tahiti. But it wasn’t his role calling conditions for the sport’s top athletes that sent Korte to Japan’s Tsurigasaki Surfing Beach this July; it was his experience telling workaday waveriders when to call in sick — from Maine to the Caribbean, Brazil to Morocco — particularly the diehards who surf right here. “In anticipation of the Olympics, both the ISA and WSL asked us to do multiple studies on Japan,” Korte explains. “And we realized the wave climate at Tsurigasaki is really similar to the Outer Banks. The way the coastline faces, the predominant winds,
there’s a warm water current that’s right off the coast — just like the Gulf Stream. It made sense for the onsite forecaster to have experience with those conditions, so the ISA asked me to go over and do it.”
So what’d he do? He paddled out — of course. Caught a few familiar waves and basked in some well-earned, once-in-alifetime emotions.
In fact, he had to go over and do it twice. Turns out, for every Olympic category, they actually run a mock event to work out the kinks. So, in 2019, Korte visited the contest site, where they tested a full range of scenarios‚ including the prospect of squeezing two days together in case the waves gave out. Lucky thing, because that’s exactly the call Kurt had to make when they ran heats for real this past July. “We were scheduled to run over four days,” he explains. “Days two and three looked to be pretty solid because of a tropical system, but it looked like the swell might drop off significantly. So that was the toughest forecast call: do we push through and run the last day in challenging, overhead chunky surf? Or stay on schedule and run the risk of it being much smaller?”
“World tour events are cool, but they run those things every year,” he says. “Leaving Japan, I think everyone had a real feeling of being part of something special. Because it was the first Olympic surfing event ever.”
“When I woke up the next morning and looked out my window, I was like, ‘Oh, God, thank you.’”
Kurt knew what he wanted as a surfer and a spectator: overhead and thrilling always beats chest high and predictable. But the Olympics isn’t just a battle between certain athletes — it’s part of a televised, international event. “Each day, we had a series of meetings with all the various other stakeholders — the IOC, ISA, Tokyo 2020, Olympic Broadcast Services. My opinion was strongest about the surf, but there were others who were focused on broadcasting and other logistics. I didn’t strut in and say, ‘Hey, we’re running tomorrow’ and walk out.” [Laughs] In the end, Kurt’s call persevered. And when July 27 finished, not only did it produce the competition’s best day of action, they crowned the sport’s first-ever Olympic champions. As the cameras captured Brazil’s Italo Ferreira and Hawaii’s Carissa Moore biting their historic Gold medals, the work crews were already packing up scaffolding. But for Kurt, the contest wasn’t quite over. “There was always a slight chance the next day was gonna be eight-foot and kegging,” he says. “So when I woke up the next
morning and looked out my window, I was like, ‘Oh, God, thank you.’ It was only chest high — and clean — but kind of closed out. Actually, it looked a lot like home.”
But it sure won’t be the last. Come 2024, the planet’s best waveriders will head to Tahiti — home of the world famous Teahupo’o. After that, it’s Los Angeles and Australia — two surfing meccas in their own right. Does that mean Kurt needs to order some new Team USA sport coats? “We already did the study for Paris 2024,” he says. “Needless to say, Tahiti performed a little better than France. But it’s not like I’m the Olympic forecaster now. We have plenty of talent who could end up onsite, so I’ll worry about all that in 2023.” Until then he’ll continue to track the oceans for the next swell event — be it a major competition, a major storm, or just the average, everyday conditions that keep most surfers wet. So, which ones does he worry about most? “I’d rather score a good day here, because I get to paddle out,” he laughs. “That’s maybe a more tangible reward than helping somebody get waves in the Canary Islands. But, in the end, I really just want to be right. Nobody wants me to be right more than me.” — Stu Nahan
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FOCU pure
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US
Mark Buckler loves shooting the natural world — then sharing the knowledge.
A
t age 14, Mark Buckler already knew he wanted to travel the world taking photos. Several decades and detours later, the self-taught professional lensman is right where he dreamed: circling the globe with cameras in hand and sharing that joy with burgeoning shooters. So far in 2021, the Southern Shores resident has led workshops in Alaska, South Africa, Iceland, Hawaii, Arizona, Utah, New Mexico, and Florida. And yet, some of his favorite images and memories happen right here. “For the photography that I like to do, which is wildlife, landscape and nature photography, I think the Outer Banks is as good a location as there is in North America,” Buckler says. “We may not have the majestic beauty of the American Southwest, but there’s a great deal of what you might call subtle beauty, because of our wildlife and natural landscapes.”
“I’ve always loved learning, so teaching people continues that for me.” Buckler’s enthusiasm for photography started with a freshman year wildlife biology class at his high school in Hyannis, on Cape Cod, Massachusetts. His teacher, Pete Auger, was working on his doctorate and employed innovate methods, including professional level wildlife field research and using photography for data collection. Buckler got hooked on both. His parents got him a 35mm camera for his birthday, and in-between school and sports, he pursued the hobby, often developing his own photos in the school dark room.
Buckler enjoys a rare moment in front of the lens. Iceland, 2021. Photo: Daniel Bergmann
After graduating, Buckler studied wildlife biology at the University of Vermont, where he also played baseball. He knew he wanted to do something with photography for a career —but at first, the universe had different plans. Professional scouts had taken
notice of Buckler, and to his great surprise, two days after he graduated college, the Oakland A’s called. So, professional second baseman it was. But, after two years, Buckler was done with pro ball. He went back to his roots on Cape Cod, where he was strong-armed by his former teacher into substitute teaching. That led to coaching baseball and teaching kids wildlife biology at his old school — right alongside his mentor. He liked it so much, he stayed for 14 years, until one day he had to try something new. He took a job at a school in Raleigh, but after a year, he realized he needed more than a change of scenery. “It was time to do something else,” he says. “I knew that if there was some way I could do photography for a living, I wanted to do that.” Having visited the Outer Banks to shoot photos, Buckler recognized that, if he could get here, he’d be one step closer to becoming a full-time lensman. In 2005, he applied to be the program director for Corolla’s brand-new Outer Banks Center for Wildlife Education. Almost immediately, things started to click. He started by adding nature photography tours and workshops to the center’s programming. Then, in 2006, he won a North American Nature Photographer’s Association contest with a photo of two black-bellied plovers fighting.
(In May and June, he hosted Outer Banks workshops for 57 straight days.) Buckler says most residents don’t realize what a treasure this place is for wildlife photography — 99 percent of his clients are from outside of eastern North Carolina — but then, much of the world isn’t aware, either. “The Outer Banks is really an unknown, amazing photo location,” he says. “We have the highest concentration of black bears in the world. The most significant area for wintering ducks, geese and swans. We have 11 wildlife refuges nearby where you can see world-class wildlife events every day. Not to mention horses on the beach.” After a few solid years, Buckler was ready to branch out again. He started offering trips to places he knew well: the Georgia and Florida coasts, Pacific Northwest, the Southwest, Hawaii, and more. Then he added Alaska, his favorite destination, where he and his clients photograph grizzly bears chasing salmon. In 2019, he forged into Iceland. This year, he explored South Africa. In 2022, he’s leading his first trip to Svalbard, Norway, above the Arctic Circle, to photograph polar bears. But Buckler is more than a photography teacher. He’s a location scout, travel agent, marketing professional, entertainer — and, sometimes, amateur psychologist.
“That was very helpful for me,” Buckler says. “I was new in the area and all of a sudden people in the photography community in the mid-Atlantic and South knew my name.”
“Leading trips is intense,” he says. “I need to manage personalities, get people where they’re supposed to be, teach and make sure everyone has a good time. I’m constantly on from the time I get up to the time I go to bed. The only downtime is a bathroom break.”
After four years with the Wildlife Center, he became director of Pine Island Audubon Sanctuary — another great place for shooting critters. (Figuratively speaking.) He also started leading photography tours on the side. In 2012, he was ready to jump in and do full-time what he loved most. In fact, Buckler wanted to go worldwide right out of the gate, but his wife, Kara Lashley, reeled him in.
He spends six months a year, maybe more, on the road, with small, intimate groups of four-to-six people or giving presentations at camera clubs and wildlife festivals. And while no dream job is perfect — “it’s hard being away from home and family” — Buckler has no complaints.
“I was very fortunate that my wife has a keen business sense,” he says. “She said, ‘You need to step back and become an Outer Banks photo guide first.’ And she was absolutely right.” Even now, local gigs keep Buckler most busy.
“I really like taking people to places and sharing knowledge of photography, wildlife, the location, and the natural systems that are there,” he says. “I’ve always loved learning, so teaching people continues that for me. At the same time, I get to help people improve their photography, and that’s rewarding.” — Annie Mann milepost 23
FEELING TESTY?
Whether you’ve moved to a new place — or just got a ton of new neighbors — it’s only natural to stress a little. Maybe our local knowledge quiz can help lighten your mood.
Cover sheet
OUTER BA NATURA FOR
- page 1 of 3
1. Which Outer Banks legend is also the nation’s first anchor baby? a. Virginia Dare b. Wilbur Wright c. Andy Griffith d. Delbert 2. Which legendary profiteer made their name plundering Outer Banks beaches? a. Blackbeard b. Captain Kidd c. Calico Jack d. SAGA
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utive g two consec in iv t, n rv ra su f ig o m Im brink will Dear COVID you’re on the e March, you te m a o c ic , d n in io s it rd d o g to tra Our rec nks. Accordin a atus. B r te u e O e year-round st , e im -t ke and pass th ll winters on th ta fu r st u fo m ly u p o p y a le to l status,” become eligib ve true “loca ie h c a to r e Test. ched But in ord aturalization rn in the atta N tu d re n d a n a ip sh ty n e eir entire attached Citiz answers in th ll a t u o ll fi Please 22. bruary 31, 20 e F y b e p lo e env Sincerely,
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3. Which of the following is not considered an acceptable form of economic survival? a. Scavenging shipwrecked vessels b. Bootlegging liquor c. Unemployment d. Stealing pharmaceuticals 4. What was the Outer Banks’ first gated community? a. Colington Harbor b. Martin’s Point c. Currituck Club d. Fort Raleigh 5. Which official flag/sign is the best indicator of good surf? a. Gale Warning b. Water/Sand On Road c. No Swimming d. Closed. Back in 3 hours. 6. Dare County is known as… a. The Land of Beginnings b. The Land of Beaches c. The Land of B-Students d. The Land of “Beer Thirty”
7. W an a. F b. F c. F bro d. F
8. W pas a. H b. F c. D d. B
9. T Atla a. T b. T c. T d. T
10. W geog actu a. Pe b. B c. Fr d. O
11. W plac acce a. Re b. Km c. La d. M
12. W the O a. Fre b. De c. Py d. Ha
Page 2 of 3
ANKS CITIZENSHIP/ ALIZATION TEST RM OB-252-B Test (circle all that apply)
Which of the following is no longer Outer Banks “first”? First attempt at an English colony First powered flight First intentional wireless radio oadcast First place to not have a Target
Which favorite Outer Banks stime does not require a permit? Hunting on federal land Fishing on local waters Driving on town beaches Bitching on Facebook
The term “Graveyard of the antic” is a reference to… The number of shipwrecks The number of retirees The number of dead brain cells The number of sunken dreams
Which of the following graphic descriptions is not an ual location? ea Island Banana Island rench Fry Alley Old Bay
Which of the following forgotten ce-markers does not remain an eptable geographic term? ed Apple mart aundromats Milepost Anything
What is the economic system of Outer Banks? ee market capitalism emocratic socialism yramid scheme aves and have nots
Page 3 of 3
(Do not write in this space.)
13. Circle the Outer Banks’ two major parties. a. Democrat b. Republican c. Party at my house d. Party at your house 14. Which one of the following populations remains a source of cheap labor? a. Regional college students b. J1s from Europe c. Local teenagers d. ’80s college students 15. Which of the following historic events was not related to the Civil War? a. Chicamacomico Races b. Battle of Roanoke c. The Freedman’s Colony/Hotel d’ Afrique d. The Mex-Econo Revolution 16. Which of the following is not a recognized local holiday? a. Old Christmas b. Virginia Dare Day c. Pirate Jamboree d. Labor Day 17. Which one of these is a current Dare County commissioner? a. Bob Woodward b. Marc Basnight d. Danny Couch e. Sandy Loveseat 18. Which one of the following entities are Outer Bankers not against? a. Wankers b. Tankers c. Bankers d. Anchors
NATURALIZATION OA TH
OF THE OUTER BANK
S
Upon approval, you wil l be asked to appear at the Fooz-Ball Palace to recite the following oath, while wearing an ECU sweatshi rt, holding a 1987 copy of “The Beach Book,” and chugging a Rolling Rock: “I [insert name here], we lcome my role as an Outer Banker and, as such, hereby swear the following from now until the day I leave this earthly plane — or am chased off the bea ch by overpricing and/or a bunch of pretentious jerks: I will respect my neighbors regardless of their incom e, appearance and/or number of teeth;
I will stop using the term “OBX” except in jest or when giving an officer my license plate number;
I will quit asking other peo ple what they do for a livi ng; I will fight the urge to put up ‘No Trespassing’/‘Priva te Property’ signs every three feet;
I will remove the rope/chai n from the front of my dri veway; I will burn all my suits exc ept for one; I will forget how to tie a tie; I will slow down when dri ving through standing wa ter — and will not pass on the right;
I will carry my own chair
I will not put said chair/u
and umbrella;
mbrella directly in front of my fellow beachgoers; I will slack my tires before driving on sand and pull folks out whenever possible;
I will obey the red flags (pr ovided lifeguards are not present) and rescue swimmers when they’re caught in a rip; I will help my neighbors prep for a storm, and ass ist with clean-up afterward; I will over-tip all bartender s, servers, cabbies, and mu sical entertainers, no matter the quality of the service; I will not ask for a local’s discount; I will tell my part-time res ident friends to stop asking for a local’s discount; I will not judge my neighb ors for being awake at 6am on Sunday morning, whether still up partying or headed to church; I will preserve the natura l state of our coast and pro mote the public right to enjoy it, including: fighting offshore drilling, standing up for open beaches, saving live oaks, and hat ing on (other people’s) Mc Mansions; I will stop taking myself so seriously and learn to take a joke; I will accept the fact that while I’m not the first to arrive, I’m also not the last, and as such will welco me future arrivals with the same hospitality, sincerity and humility that ma kes the Outer Banks the sandy soul of Atlantic beach towns. Here sworn on this day ___
________________, 202
2.”
POOL
fantasy
From Barbados to Boone Artisan turns crazy drea
S
orry, Jethro. This ain’t your average “cement pond” — not even for Beverly Hills. It’s got a grotto. A slide. Boulder features and a swimup bar. Phone controlled jets for a spillover spa. Plus, 27 lights that disco down at the tap of your finger. But it’s what lies beneath that really makes this backyard waterpark legit. Multiple tons of rebar and concrete, engineered and installed to stand the tests of time and strain of natural forces — so when the sound shows its full fury, the whole structure stays put. “Hurricane Irene changed everything, because so many sound-front pools popped out or collapsed,” says Artisan Pools’ VP Andreas Miedler. “Today, we use a footer system of connected pilings, so that when that sound surges again, the water shape should remain permanent. But the only way to learn to do that was for us to go off the beach.” By “us,” he means himself and Andy Duck, the founder of Artisan Skateparks, with whom he teamed up in 2013. By “off the beach,” he means traveling all over North America to learn techniques from industry leaders “who’ve built pools around the world since before we were born.” “We’ve been to San Antonio, Orlando, New Jersey, Toronto,” Miedler continues. “We put in a big effort to learn the proper planning and rebar schedule, the concrete schedule, the engineering. This is not just a matter of backing up the concrete truck and letting it roll.” Rather, it’s a matter of shooting wet and dry cement mixes onto vertical surfaces at speeds from 280 to 1000 cubic feet per minute — aka “shotcreting” — then sculpting the interior to the ideal shape. More than that, it’s about knowing proper cure times and hydration techniques. But, most of all, it’s about serious planning. “We do a lot of preemptive design on paper,” says Miedler. “I used to be out of a backyard in 90 days. Now it’s nine months plus.”
Each water shape is a headturning mix of hard cement and shimmering, sex appeal. Photo: Chris Bickford
And Artisan Skateparks’ municipal jobs can take even longer, especially overseas projects — like the Barbados park they completed in 2020 — which require shipping equipment, sourcing new materials, understanding different environmental conditions, and converting measurements to the metric system.
e to the backside of Corolla, ams into concrete. Last year, all that hard work was recognized by the American Shotcrete Association’s Outstanding Project Awards. Barbados won the “Outstanding International Project” while the Corolla pool and grotto earned an Honorable Mention for “Outstanding Pool and Recreational Project.” But when it comes to prizes, they share the honors, because they share crews — and knowledge. In fact, born-and-bred Outer Banker, Durand Beasley, was on-site manager in both Corolla and Barbados. And Artisan’s veteran craftsmen regularly jump back-andforth between jobs. That helps them make the most bitchin’, grindable skate bowl on foreign soil — or carve out the curviest, sexiest swimming pool for a local bigwig. “Because of our skating background, we know how to transfer proper radiuses into concrete,” says Miedler. “So we gave our client in Corolla a nice amoeba shape. But that was just the start. Because the client is also the CEO of a national building firm that manages 20,000 new projects a year, he wanted everything he’s seen — and then some.
“I used to be out of a backyard in 90 days. Now it’s nine months.” That fancy coping? Precious marble, each piece custom-cut and sandblasted for a grippy finish. Those lights? They’ll pulse patriotic colors on the 4th of July. But the standout fixture is the grotto’s faux boulder formation. In another part of the world, Artisan might source real rocks. Here, they opted to shape huge cubes of Styrofoam — yet another rad trick they pulled from the skating side. “When you’re building a skatepark, some features go above the existing elevation,” says Miedler. “You don’t want to create extra weight, so we fill voids with foam and shoot them with concrete. For this pool, we carved the concrete and stained it to look real.” But the one area where Artisan really shines has nothing to do with hard surfaces — it’s all about handling sandy soil and flowing liquid. Where inland builders can shoot
PEACE. LOVE. PIZZA. DELIVERED.
concrete against rocks and dirt, local crews must build temporary wooden structures to support the weight while it cures — but only after they find a way to deal with the shallow water table. “Dewatering is our biggest issue,” says Miedler. “One soundside project down in Hatteras Island, we were moving thousands of gallons an hour at the beginning. It took five weeks to get things dry enough to start work.” Two months later, they’d put down 300 yards of concrete and 35 tons of steel — and installed a fresh range of engineering feats. Keeping the pool’s 73,000 gallons of water flowing and filtered requires a nearly 200-square-foot standalone pump room. The infinity hot tub is connected to a computerized anemometer, so it shuts itself off when the southwest winds honk. Every single amenity adds another layer of prep — and expense. “We’re tapping the million-dollar mark for this one backyard,” says Miedler. But the biggest headache of all was a simple matter of aesthetics: a concrete footbridge that runs over top — but doesn’t quite connect.
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Is there any place they won’t travel? Or project they won’t do? “We do try and get some folks to tone it down,” Miedler laughs. “Like, ‘Forget the lazy pool — just pick one or two aspects you want to do right.’ But we’ve got a solid crew. And each challenge they meet gives us another skill set and another bar to break.” — Matt Walker
New Release Fiction and Non-Fiction Outer Banks Note Cards
“There’s a six-inch gap in the middle of the span,” says Miedler. “To cantilever concrete eight feet on both sides was a pain. But that’s why we have hard data on paper, down to the finishes. Because the last thing you want to do is tear that thing out and start over.” With each crazy success, their reputation travels a bit farther. And that means going over the bridge more than ever. On the skate side, they’re headed to New England next, to build their fiftieth municipal park. The pool guys just finished up a mountainside oasis in Boone that required building a $40,000 temporary structure — and a 5-ton HVAC unit — so they could keep working through winter.
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Our Outer Banks estuary system is the perfect backdrop for far-reaching research. Photo: Chris Bickford milepost 28
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Nadine Heck takes science learned in local waters to the world beyond.
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ooking out her office windows at the Coastal Studies Institute, Dr. Nadine Heck enjoys a long view of marsh and Croatan Sound. Often punctuated with shrimp boats plying those lucrative waters, it’s the ideal place for a social scientist who specializes in the human and economic components of fisheries and marine protected areas. And while her current work begins here in Skyco, the benefits reach communities across the globe as she asks that most complex of questions: “How can we use the environment without destroying it, especially the ocean?” Heck’s scientific curiosity began at an early age. Growing up on the shores of Lake Constance in Germany, she often wondered how people managed natural environments. Since no one owns the sea, she wondered, how could protections be enforced? These questions led her to study marine science in Germany and the United Kingdom. She earned a PhD in geography at the University of Leeds in 2011, then came to the United States to work on post-doctorate work at Cornell and the University of California, Santa Cruz. Heck came to the Coastal Studies Institute (CSI) two years ago, drawn by the opportunity to collaborate with scientists in complementary disciplines while focusing on how people, including fishermen and women, management entities and communities, are affected by and interact with science in marine areas.
“As soon as you have more than one group in competition for the same resources, there’s always conflict.” “CSI is a great work setting for creating new ideas,” says the assistant professor in marine conservation and natural resource management. “We’re looking at similar issues from completely different perspectives. We have a lot of options for integrated research projects.” That’s good, because “integrated research projects” are Dr. Nadine Heck’s jam.
Among a range of past efforts, she’s served as a liaison between fishermen and women and fisheries managers, and collaborated with local communities and government agencies. She’s also researched species management and protection from British Columbia to the Great Lakes region, and conflicts between user groups from California to Hawaii. The latter was part of a larger study that connected ideas from Bangladesh to Fiji, Europe to the United States. “It’s definitely an issue I see everywhere,” she says. “As soon as you have more than one group in competition for the same resources, there’s always conflict.” Of course, such friction is well known on the Outer Banks, where commercial and recreational fishermen battle over limits and hauls. And the marine fisheries overseers often remain a common source of vitriol — and distrust. “It’s an ongoing issue that’s studied all over the world,” Heck says. “There’s no clear recipe for that yet. But it’s important to emphasize that no fisher wants to deplete the fish resource. So, the question is, how do you get there in a sustainable and equitable way, so the benefits don’t just go to one group and are distributed equally among different groups?” One problem, she says, is that for so long fisheries management has only looked at the resource from an ecological side. Heck works to bring in the voice of the people involved. So, when she’s not in her office looking at data, she’s out in the field, handing out surveys. One universal truth Heck has realized is that she must work with them and understand all the different users from their individual perspectives. “The most important thing is that you create a two-way discussion where people value other opinions and identify a need for other people,” she says. “It’s tricky to understand as a manager where fishers go, what they do, what they need. So, a dialog is really important to understand all the viewpoints.” No matter the locale, Heck says she sees conflict at its worst when people don’t feel valued. “When people feel like their voice is disrespected or their input doesn’t matter, that sometimes aggravates people more than the issue itself. So, you really have to engage with all groups to understand the issues and then maybe together find a solution to make
it all sustainable and equitable. People just want to be heard and respected.” Heck also makes sure to look at the common ground. “I’m not just looking at conflict but also synergy — how can they coexist or even complement each other?” That said, it’s still a lot harder to understand the people in the system than it is the ecology. (“People are way more unpredictable than physical processes,” she says.) So, when she’s not addressing the fluid whims of humans, she helps other researchers get a handle on fishes’ physical behaviors. Among her many local projects, Heck is currently participating in a study of the shrimp fishery with Dr. Jim Morley and colleagues. The focus is on environmental changes like pollution and the effects of climate change, including weather patterns and storms. Heck’s job is to gather shrimpers’ direct onthe-water knowledge and experiences and combine them with environmental models to assess the environmental impacts on brown and white shrimp. Once complete, their data analysis will be used in models to create a forecasting tool for the NC shrimp fishery, integrating local knowledge with environmental data, useful to both fisheries managers and the shrimpers. It will also have impacts around the globe. “We’re looking at how fishers react to changes in the environment and the distribution and abundance of fish species, and that’s a global issue,” Heck says. “So, whatever we learn from here is directly important to other places. We’re also looking at how fishers are affected by storms. That is very important worldwide — in so many countries, fisheries and fishers are affected by storms, but we don’t yet know how they respond and what helps them to better adapt and recover.” That’s particularly valuable info as climate change promises turbulent seas ahead. Yet in the midst of looking at regional conflict and environmental upheaval, Heck remains hopeful. Because she knows humans can change, too. “Fisheries have been changing since forever and people have always found a way to adapt,” she says. “We just need to find a balance between enjoyment, use and protection. And if I can help that a little bit, that would be great.” — Terri Mackleberry milepost 29
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A warm bed for tonight — plus a little light for tomorrow. Photo: Kellar Diggs
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Got a roof over your head? Give to OBX Room In The Inn.
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Between November 2019 and April 2020, the OBX Room In The Inn helped shelter an average of six homeless individuals per night. Last winter, the nonprofit regularly welcomed a dozen or more.
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“I think there were several reasons why the numbers doubled,” says executive director Mike Jones. “One was a combination of substance abuse issues and alcohol abuse issues — which have always been around — but add rising housing prices and COVID and I think it was like the perfect storm.”
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For nearly a decade, Room In The Inn has sheltered homeless guests and helped them find stable housing. In 2020, COVID struck, and the team had to adapt.
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Since churches could no longer provide shelter, the nonprofit responded by renting space in “The Rose Building,” which houses international workers during summer. It also started new intake protocols. Besides a background check, a breathalyzer and a belongings search, the organization added a temperature check and new handling guidelines for volunteers. One crisis they couldn’t account for? The lack of affordable housing. As more people
arrived to ride out the pandemic — and more folks sold off homes they used to lease or offered rooms for short-term vacations — it left even fewer offseason rentals. That led to more need than ever before. As the cold set in, December, January and February brought consistent averages of 12-13 guests. “Obviously, we don’t have the type of homeless population that a big city would have,” says Jones. “But we have way more than people are aware of.” But such pressures lead to fresh solutions. When available beds ran out, the nonprofit partnered with The Cavalier Motel for more space. And now, in addition to meeting demand, they’re looking for ways to reduce the need. That might mean helping folks find work and a place to stay, here or elsewhere. “We’re more than just an overnight shelter,” says Jones, recalling fielding a call from a man who had suffered a domino-effect catastrophe. “He got fired from his job because he had mental health issues; he got kicked out of his place because he ran out of money; his car got towed; and he ran out of his insulin,” Jones says. “He had absolutely nothing.”
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Room In The Inn partnered with Interfaith Community Outreach to split the cost of a bus ticket for him to return to Ohio. They also bought him insulin and gave him some food money.
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For Tennessee native Dakoda Smith, Room In The Inn helped him stay put. The 23-yearold always wanted to live at the beach, but he arrived last summer with just enough money to get here. An area resident let him use their address for work applications, and while he was quickly hired for a job at Publix, he had to wait on corporate approval.
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“I stayed in my truck the first couple months and showered at beach accesses,” Smith says.
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He stayed with Room In The Inn from November until early January, when he moved into an apartment with a person seeking a roommate. Then, through Interfaith, he secured a second job at Metro Rental, where he ended up going full-time and continues working currently. “[Room In The Inn] was super helpful, because it gave me somewhere to sleep at night, and you have a clean shower every day,” he says. “They offer something for breakfast and pack you lunches.” The group also provides case management to help meet each guest’s needs — from obtaining social security cards to applying for Medicaid or disability to securing counseling or entering an Oxford House program. And, thanks to grant funding, the nonprofit is renting two additional units this winter: one for overflow shelter space and one for a new transitional housing program. This expands capacity from 14 beds to 22. Transitional housing participants must work at least 20 hours a week, pass drug tests, and fulfill other requirements, to in turn receive “a little more freedom.”
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“We want to make that leap from absolute homelessness to self-sufficiency a little bit less,” says Jones. Each little bit adds up. Especially since Jones expects this year’s numbers to grow even more. With requests coming in as early as September, they opted to open November 1 through mid-April, starting 15 days earlier than last year. But it all takes volunteers, donations and money. More than anything, it takes empathy. An understanding that hard times fall on everyone, and that any person could one day find themselves huddled under a beach crossover, broke and bundled in tattered blankets. “I think a lot of the problem is just the sheer cost of living here,” observes Jim Conners, a regular volunteer who moved here from Georgia 26 years ago. “There are very many of us who are just a paycheck or two away from being homeless. These people just need a little bit of a helping hand so they can work themselves out of the bind that they’re in.” — Corinne Saunders
Room In The Inn welcomes volunteers, monetary and material (clothing and hygiene items) donations. Kelly’s Catering is again sponsoring a December 5 fundraiser, with $25 meal tickets. For more information and to donate or volunteer, visit www.obxroomintheinn.org.
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flattened. But by 1948, West Berlin was revitalizing. The Soviets did not like that — they wanted control of the city. So, they cut off the waterway, the railway and the autobahn. Nothing could come into West Berlin. No food. No water. Even the power plant was in East Berlin, so we had no electricity either. The Allies realized — even though they fought Germany in the war — that they couldn’t let three million people starve to death. And so began the greatest humanitarian effort in history: the Berlin Airlift.
JOY gofast TO THE gogolf WORLD artisticlicense Karin Edmond reveals the true spirit behind Manteo’s Annual fooddrink Candy Drop
For 14 months, every 90 seconds, a plane landed or took off with food and supplies. The weight became too much for planes, so they dehydrated the food. Everything we ate came in either powder form or was shrunken down — your vegetables, your potatoes, your meats, your eggs, your milk. You’d put it in water, and it would get reconstituted. It didn’t taste very good, I can tell you that. But we were happy to get it when we could. Because it did not come every day.
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Karin Edmond turns a tragic childhood into sweet tradition every December. Photo: Dick Meseroll/ESM
On the Outer Banks, there are two soaring symbols of holiday cheer: Santa Claus and Colonel Gail Halvorsen — aka “The Candy Bomber.” Every December since 2003, the retired WWII Air Force pilot has flown the Spirit of Freedom over Dare County Regional airport, dropping chocolate via parachute to the delight of local families. Many, however, don’t realize that the roots of this sweet tradition reach back to a most troubled era, when millions of post-war Germans nearly starved during a Soviet blockade. Nor do they necessarily know that Halvorsen’s visits are organized by a local woman who experienced the suffering firsthand. Here, Karin Edmond recalls the story of tragedy and triumph that sparked this aerial ceremony, and what the annual act of generosity means for her and her generation. — Matt Walker
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and the Allies decided they would startingpoint Soviets cut Berlin in two. The Allies got West Berlin,
My name is Karin Edmond. I’m 79 years old. For more than 20 years, I’ve helped organize the Candy Bomber’s annual visit to Roanoke Island. But that was not the first time I heard Gail Halvorsen’s C-54 fly overhead. Oh no, not at all.
and the Soviets got East Berlin — along with all the surrounding territory. That left only three ways in and out of West Berlin: by water, by train and the autobahn.
I grew up in Berlin, Germany. After the armies laid their weapons down in 1945, the
When the war ended, 99 percent of Berlin was bombed out. I mean literally
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It was not a happy childhood. I wore the same dress for two years. I hated that dress. Shoes? Forget about it. We had knitted socks with bicycle tires opened up and glued to the bottom. And many, many times, from ’48 to ’49, my five brothers and sisters and I went to bed hungry — and we got up hungry. I remember one day we began begging my mother for food. She opened the kitchen cabinet and showed us: “There is nothing.” Can you imagine? Of course, we had no sweets, either. So, when the Candy Bomber arrived, it was something else. The Candy Bomber was Gail Halvorsen. He was one of the airlift pilots. One time, he came into Berlin on his day off, and he saw a bunch of kids standing outside the airport. He had two sticks of Wrigley’s spearmint gum in his pocket, so he broke them in two and handed them through the fence. Then he watched as the children split those two sticks up as small as possible — some only got to smell the paper. When he saw how delighted those kids were over two sticks of chewing gum, he decided to do something about it.
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I believe the Good Lord spoke to him that day. Because Gail collected the chocolate from the rations of his buddies. Then he bought handkerchiefs and made little parachutes. And from then on, every time he flew into Berlin, he dropped little Hershey bars for the children. But before he’d drop them, he’d wiggle his wings as a sign, so kids knew it was him — that’s how he got the name “Uncle Wiggle Wings.” Soon the other pilots joined in. At night, or on their time off, they made little parachutes. And when they flew, they dropped candy for the kids all over Berlin. And once the Americans found out about it, they began shipping Hershey bars galore to Frankfurt! In one year they dropped 23 tons of candy. I never caught any candy bars myself, but we all knew about it. Because we all heard the planes — until they stopped flying. That was September of 1949.
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IN ONE YEAR THEY DROPPED 23 TONS OF CANDY.
The next time I heard that noise was fifty years later. By 1986, I had moved to Manteo to work at the Weeping Radish. For 19 years, I made all the German food. The sauerkraut, the red cabbage, the potato salad, the wiener schnitzel — you name it. In 1999, I heard the engines of a C-54 roaring, and I thought “Lord Almighty, am I going back in time?!” Because all those years, I’d tried to forget my childhood in Berlin. I never even told my own children! When I asked my daughter to take me to the airport, she said, “Why?” I said, “Just take me.” When I got there and saw the “Spirit of Freedom,” it brought back everything. But they weren’t dropping chocolates. And
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the pilot wasn’t the real Candy Bomber. So, I said “I’m getting involved.” I began to volunteer with Berlin Airlift Historical Association.
God is the sunshine of our lives.
In 2000, we brought the first candy drop. And, in 2001, I took over the event. In 2003, I reached out to Gail Halverson and he agreed to come to Manteo for the 100th Anniversary of Flight. That weekend, I made a party at the Weeping Radish for Gail, and I told him, “I can now give you, after 55 years, a German candy bar.” And, in 2018, I met a man who lives here and who grew up in Germany. He was in the concentration camps with his mother, sisters and brothers. In 1945, they were freed and settled in East Berlin. And he said to me, “In 1948, Gail Halverson dropped a candy bar in East Berlin — and I caught it.” So the next year, I asked him to come up on stage to meet Gail. And when I looked out in the audience, everyone was crying. Because, after 70 years, he could say thanks.
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Those are the moments that make it so special. And seeing the joy on kids’ faces. But it was never about the candy. It was knowing that someone on the outside cared. That’s why I always tell the kids, “I didn’t have plastic heroes when I was growing up. I had 135, real-life heroes.” Those 135 pilots flew 250,000 missions over 14 months. And 35 of them lost their lives. But they kept three million people alive.
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The first year, we started out with 35 parachutes. Now we are up 700. It takes a lot of money — $3500 in fuel costs alone. And work — I spend all year getting donations. And yet, all this time, I still never caught a candy bar. Until last year, when I went to Utah for Gail’s 100th birthday. They had a fantastic candy drop there for him. I finally caught one, and I still have it. I’m never going to give that up.
Ed note: This year, the Candy Bomber will visit Dec. 17-19. Besides participating in the Fri. morning flyover as part of the annual Wright Brother’s Memorial celebration, Col. Halvorsen and his crew will join in a 6:30pm forum at the Dare County Municipal Center on Dec. 17. On Dec. 18, the “Spirit of Freedom” will be open to the public at Dare County Regional Airport, with the official candy drop occurring on Dec. 19 at 1pm. (Stay tuned to local news outlets for updates.) Also, because of the pandemic, fundraising got a late start this year. To support the cause, make a check out to: “The Berlin Airlift Historical Foundation/Manteo Candy Drop.” Then send it to Candy Bomber 2021, c/o Karin Edmond, PO Box 1226, Manteo NC, 27954 by Dec. 6. For more info on how to help, call 252-473-1795.
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Nonprofit Management Training
Presented by Duke University Continuing Studies – sponsored by the Outer Banks Community Foundation.
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THE TRAINING EXPLORES 8 KEY AREAS OF NONPROFIT MANAGEMENT through courses taught by instructors who are established practitioners and scholars from a variety of disciplines within the nonprofit arena. Participants are able to complete the requirement for the Duke Certificate in Nonprofit Management in 8 days. The training is virtual and will be held from 9:00 am to 4:00 pm with a break for lunch.
Tuesday 1/25/22
Tuesday 2/8/22
Thursday 1/27/22 Thursday 2/10/22 Tuesday 2/1/22
Tuesday 2/15/22
Thursday 2/3/22 Thursday 2/17/22
Cost $2,000. Financial support is available for qualified individuals. Contact Bob Muller for more details at (252) 207-5287 or bob@obcf.org
CLASSES INCLUDE: • Nonprofit Board Development/Governance • Volunteer Engagement • Community Engagement and Collaboration: Connecting the Dots for Greater Impact • Nonprofit Fundraising • Grant Writing and Compliance • Nonprofit Financial Development and Management • Nonprofit Planning & Evaluation • Sustainable Strategic Planning for Nonprofits
Individual classes not available, the training must be taken in its entirety.
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startingpoint A TASTE OF HOME
Global residents bring international flavor to the Outer Banks.
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The bright acidity of a fresh piece of citrus. The earthiness of a curry, comingling with the snap of fresh veggies and herbs from the garden. The sweet hum of pots boiling, spoons stirring and visions of Grandma shooing eager appetites out of the kitchen.
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For many immigrants to the US, these flavors and memories are the definition of “home.” So, what happens when travels abroad become permanent, and these tastes, smells and sensations are worlds away? Eventually, you might decide to recreate and share them with your new home. Even if you’ve never run a restaurant before.
Sean and Anna first came to Corolla from St. Catherine, Jamaica, on J1 visas in 2009. They worked in local eateries like Uncle Ike’s and Northern Lights’ Bakery. Both fell in love with the quiet, family-oriented community, so in 2016 they decided to stay. After a few years, they knew they wanted to take their skills to a more professional level — and bring a new type of food to the area. In May of 2021, Broken Plate Kitchen was born. Six months later, they were already a local favorite for authentic Caribbean cuisine — and then some.
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“Actually, my degree is in Hospitality Management,” laughs Anna Crossman, who opened Corolla’s Broken Plate Kitchen with friend and now business partner Sean Cadiden less than a year ago. “And Sean’s is in Information Systems. But we are both passionate about spicy, colorful food.”
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“It’s pretty amazing to see how small ideas have really taken off,” Anna says. Much like the Patois they speak — a rhythmic melding of Spanish, Akan, French, Portuguese, and a little English — the menu features a mix of the new and familiar. Lunch might be a pan jerk chicken — or classic cheeseburger. Dinner could include a crab
Thai Room’s Scott and Lakkana Ngeonjuklin are the second generation of an Outer Banks tradition. Photo: Cory Godwin
“I grew up in my grandmother’s restaurant in Lima,” says Brie Zafra. “She actually owned a cevicheria, which she started in her garage. My grandfather would go down to the wharf every day, get fresh fish, and sell it until they ran out. And he was raised by a Jewish family, so you would also see that influence on their food as well.” But with relatives already established in the US and greater opportunities in mind, the Zafras decided to make the move. First, Brie’s father, Juan, came to the Outer Banks in 2000. Then she and her mom followed suit in 2007, where they got their start working at the Fisherman’s Wharf in Wanchese. “My mom, Giovanna, actually still serves the she-crab soup and the Asian shrimp bowls from that menu here at El Shaddai,” Brie laughs. In 2017, they, along with some church friends from Mexico, opened the first and only Peruvian restaurant on the Outer Banks. While some Mexican dishes remain on the menu, today it’s just the three Zafras running the show. Brie handles the dining room, while Giovanna turns out beautiful dishes like Escabeche de Pescado. Dad’s job is manning the rotisserie.
cake — or a Caribbean-spiced fish. If you’re lucky, the curry goat might be on special. “We offer a fusion of Jamaican cultural flavor along with other iconic foods that people know and love,” she says. “Because spices from different areas are bound together to create beautiful dishes.” In fact, they import their jerk spice from a source in Jamaica, which explains why a single bite can transport you back to the islands. Even if there’s no map to get there. “We both grew up with our grandparents’ cooking,” Anna says. “No recipes — just a pinch of everything. But the colors and flavors from the exotic herbs and spices are so unique, and this is what we want to share with people.” That mix of cultural pride and generosity is all too familiar with the folks at Manteo’s El Shaddai Chicken, where the foodie family tree leads back to Peru.
In fact, the first thing you notice at El Shaddai is the warm, inviting aroma of dry-rubbed whole chicken roasting over live charcoal — a tradition Juan brought with him from his homeland’s pollerias. But El Shaddai is much more than grilled yardbird. Scan the menu, you’ll see exotic drinks like chichamorada — made with blue corn, pineapple and spices. Entrees such as Lomo Saltado, a stir-fried steak dish with soy, onions, garlic and tomatoes. And totally different desserts such as picarones — a Peruvian style donut made from sweet potatoes and squash. “Peru has the coast, the mountains and the jungle,” Brie explains. “In each region there are different dishes. In Lima, there is a large Asian population so you will see curry and ginger being used a lot.” It’s not always easy to describe. Or to source. But the Zafaras are always striving to keep things fresh with food that is a colorful
mosaic of culture, hard work and dedication. “We want people to know how different and diverse Peruvian food can be,” says Brie. Of course, when it comes to diversity and dedication, it’s hard to beat the Thai Room in Kill Devil Hills. In fact, they just might be the Outer Banks’ OGs of international cuisine.
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“My dad, uncle and grandma moved to America from Thailand in the 70s,” says Scott Ngeonjuklin. “They wanted the American dream and knew that being here would provide them the best opportunity to provide for the family and be successful.”
“SPICES FROM DIFFERENT AREAS ARE BOUND TOGETHER TO CREATE BEAUTIFUL DISHES.” — ANNA CROSSMAN, BROKEN PLATE KITCHEN
Shortly thereafter, the whole family came over. And, in ’85, Ta, Jimmy and Jumrussin — Scott’s uncle, dad and grandmother — moved to the Outer Banks and set about creating what would become a local fixture. Though it wasn’t so obvious in the beginning. “That first year definitely had its challenges,” Scott shares. “People couldn’t tell the difference between Thai and Chinese, so we had to convince customers to try the Thai dishes.” The confusion didn’t last long. Over the decades, they’ve only added more native options to the menu, due to popular demand. After years of honing his skills under the tutelage of his dad and uncle — paired with corporate restaurant experience in DC — Scott was perfectly poised to run the Thai Room. So, in 2015, he and his wife, Lakkana, took over the business.
While she grew up in Thailand, Lakkana does not have a culinary background. “Actually, growing up, I never knew anything about cooking,” Lakkana admits with a laugh. Instead, Lakkana can be found doing everything from taking to-go orders, to seating customers, to even lending a hand in the kitchen. There are times when the couple’s day starts at 3 or 4am, all the while running the business seven days a week with fewer than 10 kitchen staff members. All in the middle of our busiest year yet. “The seasonality isn’t as extreme as it used to be,” Scott notes. “We used to close for months during the winter; now only for a few weeks.” But, whenever they get time, the couple knows just what to do. “When we are able to,” Lakkana shares, “we travel back to Thailand. While we are there, Scott travels to every province he can fit in so he can try different dishes. We also visit our family’s noodle shop which is very special.” All those new flavors find their way back to KDH. But there’s still plenty of homegrown items hidden among them — usually tastes they’ve pulled from their garden. “We grow Thai Holy basil, which is more pungent than traditional basil,” says Scott. “We also grow tomatoes, a variety of chili peppers, lemon grass, Kaffir lime, and even a variety of acacia, which is great in omelets. We like to provide these fresh ingredients for our customers, because they not only taste good but also have health benefits.” After 36 years, Thai Room remains where many local families get their first taste of a totally different culture — but it’s rarely the last. “Now we are seeing customers that have grandkids that they bring in,” Lakkana says. “Seeing all the generations and sharing this together makes what we do so special.” — Fran Marler milepost 35
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DUO ROMANTICO milepost Gordon and Cathy Kreplin harmonize over classical recordings — and classic instruction. He has magic fingers — she’s got golden ears. His resume includes studying classical guitar with Spanish masters, instructing at a college level, and playing concert halls from DC to South America. She’s taught piano, voice and flute for over 40 years, sang with the Virginia Symphony Chorus, and miked the likes of Yo-Ya Ma as a sound engineer for NYC’s Vanguard Records.
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So, when Cathy met Gordon Kreplin after an ECSU concert in 1994, sparks more than just flew — they caught fire.
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“The next day, we met for coffee,” laughs Cathy. “About a month later, we were a couple — and within a year, we’d formed a corporation, Ascension Recordings Inc.”
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By 1997, they were married and had released several CDs for Gordon and other regional classical artists. Each time, Cathy made sure they got “gold in the mike,” then made sure the results found an audience.
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“The old way of doing it was to send a CD with a letter, then follow up with a lot of phone calls,” she remembers. “I pounded the pavement to reach classical radio stations and record stores as far as Tokyo and Uganda.” They also performed together as Duo Romantico. But the classical market doesn’t necessarily make millions. So, along the way, Gordon found success as a professional portrait photographer while Cathy poured her heart into private instruction. Today, KDH’s Ascension Music Academy has a team of four teachers, covering instruments from strings to woodwinds, in virtually every style, for nearly every age. “Of course, school-age children are the bread and butter for any music teacher,” says Cathy. “But we have also had
The Kreplins’ musical range stretches across nearly all styles and ages. Photo: Ryan Moser
40-, 50- and 60-year-olds. I always say, it’s never too late to start — music just waits patiently for you.”
Gordon and Cathy had to remaster the results for an entirely new era. One that barely existed a decade ago.
Add a post-pandemic population boom — a bunch of remote learning — and the studio’s never been busier. So much so that Gordon dropped the camera and jumped back in the classroom. But, somewhere between pupils, he rediscovered another former passion.
“Because everyone streams, remastering today has to address the fact that people listen to music on continuous play,” Cathy explains. “Spotify, Pandora and iTunes — all the services want what they call “perceived sameness” in volume, so songs don’t go from super loud then super quiet. It’s fascinatingly sophisticated.”
“I was cleaning out some closets, and I found a box of all these old DAT tapes,” he recalls. “And a lot of them were good. I said, ‘Holy smokes, Cathy, listen to these!’”
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With that, Ascension Recordings was back in biz. They began with a June re-release of 1996’s Bach in Brazil, which features Gordon playing the works of Germany’s most famous composer, as well as South America’s Heitor-Villa Lobos and Antonio Lauro. This November, they unveiled Memories of Compostela, a collection of tracks that revisit Gordon’s time at a Spanish conservatory, where he studied under Andres Segovia. Sort of.
EACH RELEASE SPANS THE WORLD ALMOST INSTANTLY.
“It wasn’t fascinatingly sophisticated to do!” laughs Gordon. “It was a royal pain!” The one aspect that streaming makes easy? Distribution, as each uploaded release spans the world almost instantly. “We have listeners in the UK, New Zealand, Russia, China,” says Cathy. “No sending packages or follow-up phone calls. It just goes.” Likewise, Gordon’s gearing up to hit the road again. At press time, he’d returned from a two-week residence at a resort on Roatan.
“The person who really ran things was his assistant, Jose Tomas,” Gordon says. “But I got to play for Segovia. And I met a lot of really talented players.”
Back home, you’ll find him practicing five-to-six hours a day — sometimes more — refining his chops for more limited regional events to come. Or he’ll be in the studio with Cathy, where they continue sharing their love for music with future artists. A love, they say, is universal.
Crystal clear and furiously complex, both releases reflect the fiery passion and intricate finger work of a guitarist in his prime. And both were equally tedious to reproduce. Besides mixing tracks recorded in different times and venues,
“We’ve had students in their 80s and as young as 15 months,” says Cathy. “But while the individuals are as different as they can possibly be, all human beings are musical.” — Leo Gibson milepost 37
artisticlicense Snyder’s skills range from seascape murals to scupltured mirrors. Photo: Ryan Moser
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soundcheck getactive startingpoint SUPER NATURAL Rob Snyder has a gift for inventing — and reinventing — his creative world.
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Rob Snyder didn’t set out to be an artist. Sure, his father led the graphic art department for the Federal Aviation Administration, but he rarely brought his work home. So, when the Baltimore native came to the Outer Banks in 1974, he didn’t start out slinging paint. Instead, he swung hammers. Ran heavy equipment. Even packed fish. Whatever it took to make a living. But before long, he discovered that what he really needed in order to get by was a creative outlet.
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They weren’t so good at first, he recalls. But he got better. And as his art improved, so did his psyche, because “when you see something start to come together,” he says, “it has a certain calming effect.” It’s hard to imagine the modern Snyder as an anxious kid. He’s mild-mannered. Softvoiced. Super calm and quite private. You’d never know this humble surfer is among the beaches’ most recognized artists. Like his dad, Snyder began by doing graphic work. Unlike his dad, he ultimately took to airbrushing.
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“I had a lot of anxiety early on in life that I needed to work through,” says the longtime KDH resident. “I just started picking up a pencil and drawing some seascapes.”
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He sprayed signs and vans — even Hobie Cats. Before long, he was producing some of our largest public pieces.
“I started working with Jim (Vaughn) at Whalebone Surf Shop,” says Snyder. “He got me to paint the interiors in Kitty Hawk and Nags Head, and then he opened up in Virginia Beach. It was a big space with high ceilings, probably 60 feet long and 40 feet wide. He had a little photo of Fiji and he said, ‘Make it look like that.” Rob started experimenting. He put a big palm tree trunk in the middle of the wall. And then just kept adding. “That’s where I’m going to put the waves, that’s where I’m going to put the huts,” he recalls of his process. “That one came together fairly well, considering we had no plan.” Over the years, his breezy, outdoor murals became synonymous with Outer Banks imagery, as he turned concrete walls into dazzling seascapes. And while “a bunch of them got torn down to make way for houses,” a drive down the bypass still holds some gems. A sepia wave still crashes across the side of Outer Banks Boarding Company. The side of Ben Franklin’s swims with whales and is studded with lighthouses. And, at least through this year, there’s Mako Mike’s. That eye-popping, pastel 3D relief of sharks and mahi basically came about by accident. Well, more of a stumble, really. The concept was a team effort with architect Jude LeBlanc. Snyder had drawn a design and was preparing to project the sketch onto foam panels, when… “I bumped into the projector and it skewed it a little bit, and it actually looked better,” he says. “We just locked it down and said, ‘That’s it.’” A willingness to bend his approach may be the only consistent thread of Snyder’s artistic career. A quick tour of his home reveals a full range of styles and media — oil, acrylic, wood — from intensely complex and arduous to more relaxing projects. One moment he’s pouring multiple layers of resin over an intricately
airbrushed jellyfish. The next, he’s having fun with a basic beach scene. Hit the backyard, you’ll find huge sculptures that lean into his trade roots. Two he made this past year — “Coronus” and “Zika” — which use truck bearings and spheres to create giant, metal pathogens.
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“I don’t know why they’re named after viruses,” he muses. “But, it’s like, ‘What’s happening in the world?’”
BEFORE LONG, HE WAS PRODUCING SOME OF OUR LARGEST PUBLIC PIECES.
There is one style, however, that Snyder won’t be doing anymore: murals. The elements and physical demands are simply too much. (“You’re in the sun, the wind’s blowing; I’d put murals right up there with any construction and running heavy equipment.”) But the urge to produce remains very much alive. As does his desire to create art with a new perspective.
This winter, Snyder will fill the Dare County Arts Council’s gallery with a lifetime of work, including examples from every stage of his career. But the new ones are among the most imaginative, as he projects our current reality onto a possible future.
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There is a depiction of the Ocracoke Lighthouse, towering over a bridge crossing Hatteras Inlet. Another shows Bodie Island Lighthouse surrounded by sound water. Yet, instead of emitting doom and gloom, the sun is shining. Horses gallop. It’s a blend of familiar features and strange new settings that still feels overwhelmingly optimistic. “I’ve painted a lot of sand dunes and waves and beach scenes, and I love doing that,” Snyder recalls. “And I’d like to think that they’re somewhat realistic, so it seems somewhat believable. But at the same time, I’m trying to imagine: how could it be?” — Kip Tabb
Ed. Note: Rob Snyder’s exhibit, “Mirage,” will hang at the Dare County Arts Council in Manteo Nov. 19 - Jan. 22. Learn more at www.darearts.org.
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gosurf outthere gohunt WHERE DO WILD HORSES GO IN WINTER? rearview
“When are we going to see the horses?” they repeated impatiently. “The sooner, the better, right?” I joked. And hoped. There are reasons we don’t do many tours in the off-season. Horses probably want a break from humans, too. But if someone wants to try, we’ll take ’em. Still, it doesn’t hurt to build up the anticipation by suggesting we may get skunked. “There’s always a chance we don’t see any,” I said. “But I know a few places where they like to hang out.” “Where?” asked the kids. “Probably back among the live oaks,” I said. “That’s where we’re heading now.” I crested the dune around milepost 20 and made for the sound side. A few minutes later, we rounded a sandy curve. Just there, on the edge of the maritime forest, I saw a circle of stamping hooves. “Horses!” I shouted. “Where?! Where?!” “I see them,” said Mrs. D. “But why are they standing that way?” “Because it’s freezing!” I exclaimed. “They put their heads together and huddle up, using each other for warmth or protection. They do the same during hurricanes. The whole harem has to work together to survive.” “But what do they eat?” asked Mr. D. “They eat what they can depending on the season.” “I suppose we all do,” I mused to myself, thinking how much I’ll appreciate this tour on my next Food Lion trip. y “Green summer grasses, sea oats, persimmons, tb Ar acorns,” I continued. “It’s a specialized diet. They’ve adapted to survive on it over the centuries. But take a horse from anywhere else in the world, drop them here, and they won’t last two weeks.” I decided to let that sink in for a second. As the sun set behind the dunes, everything around us was fuchsia. The clouds seemed washed in a burnt orange, painting the waves and whitewater with pinks, purples, and silvery blues. There was no darkness on the horizon, east or west — just color. I let them get a final gander at the herd while I took a second to soak in the stillness and calm. Then I fired up the truck and headed south for the shop. “Tough life for a horse,” said Mr. D., peering over his shoulder as we pulled away. “It’s tough, yeah — but it’s theirs,” I replied. “And they wouldn’t fit in anyplace else.” — Peter Graves Roberts Br iY ou ng
It was the coldest day I’d ever experienced on the Outer Banks. The Currituck Sound was completely frozen. Flurries flew as snow drifted against the dunes and hung on sea oats along the beach north of Corolla. It was January 2nd and sixteen degrees Fahrenheit with a wind chill of about negative twenty. No local in their right mind would be out in an open-air truck that day. But the Davidsons were from Canada and had a whole different definition of cold. And I had a job to do. “Where do the wild horses go in winter?” came a tiny voice. I looked down to see a pair of inquisitive eight-year-old eyes looking up, vapor breath still rising from her words. “They hide,” I answered, helping her and her brother up into the safari truck. “But you just have to know where to look for them.” Mom and Dad hopped up and squeezed in on either side. I zipped up my insulated coveralls, fired up the engine, and moments later we were rumbling over the cattle guard and onto the beach toward Virginia. “Welcome to Highway 12 north,” I joked. “Next stop, Carova Beach.” “So, excuse me. I’m sorry. You mean that there is no other road to—,” Mr. D. asked. “There’s no other road,” I interrupted. “This is it.” Directing their attention northward, I said, “You see all those big houses? Everything it takes to build, furnish and maintain ’em comes in by the beach, same way we are. This is it.” “Unbelievable!” exclaimed Mrs. D. “It’s not easy, but they do it,” I said. “The real problem is when folks from out of town try to take a regular car out here. I’ve seen brand new Porsches stuck to their hood ornaments.” We made our way onto the flat sand. The wind whipped up ocean whitecaps and sent seafoam balls rolling down the beach. I pointed down to show them — then raised my arm a little toward the west. “Oh! Look back there,” I pointed. “See that huge dune? Locals call that Penny’s Hill, though purists call it Lewark’s Hill — named for the Lewark family, whose house was buried beneath it.” The kids didn’t care about the history, though. Or spindrift. Or the damage one foolish mistake can do to a fancy car. Those were grown-up concerns.
Ed. Note: Read more of Peter Graves Roberts’ homespun tales in “Confessions of an Outer Banks Tour Guide,” out this winter. milepost 41
ROANOKE ISLAND HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION PRESENTS
endnotes Forget about the rest of the world! What’s happening here? A whole bunch of holiday shopping, to start. On Nov. 19-20, scope a cornucopia of handmade goods when the 2021 Holly Days Bazaar & Arts Festival spills across Southern Shores’ All Saints Episcopal Church. (9am-4pm, Fri.; 9-3pm, Sat.) Keep tabs on their Facebook page for updates. • Make time for more handmade items at Nov. 20’s 3rd Annual Misfits & Rejects Holiday Market at the Outer Banks Brewing Station, where twisted local artists unload their wackiest works. 11:30am-4pm. (Find updates on social media.) • Then be sure to slide into TRiO for a slice of cured meats and fine cheeses — plus a slosh of fine wine, beer and ciders — at Nov. 20’s HarvestFest. 2-4pm. Delicious deets at www.obxtrio.com. • Or shuck over to Jack Brown’s Oyster Roast for Kenny, Nov. 20, for salty bivalves, live bands, local beer, and lively raffles to help fund the Lubosch Family medical fund. $35. 1-5pm Monitor social media for updates. • Save room on your gift list — and your calendar — as the First Flight Holiday Markets turn Aviation Park into a landing pad for locally made items, Nov. 20 (10am-2pm); Nov. 23 (4-7pm); Dec. 7 (4-7pm); and Dec. 18 (10am-2pm). Follow the Town of Kill Devil Hills Facebook page for details. • From there, we’re off to the Thanksgiving footraces! On Nov. 24, the Outer Banks Brewing Station’s Tipsy Turkey Beer Mile pre-games the gorge-fest with a sudsy battle of 1/4-mile runs and 10-oz. chugs — plus awards for most creative holiday costume. 11am start. (Register at www. theobxrunningcompany.com or sign up onsite from 10-10:45am.) Then keep stuffing your face through the offseason with weekday Brew Plate Lunch Specials, plus Sun. wing specials and Thurs. tapas featuring half-price wine bottles. Or feed your brain and battle for prizes at Thurs. Trivia Nights, starting at 9:30pm. See www.obbrewing.com for culinary updates — and the live music lineup every Fri. & Sat. night. • We’re sad to say Nov. 25’s Advice 5k Turkey Trot is physically full, but you can participate in this quarter-century Duck tradition by joining the virtual race. Download all the digital details at www. advice5kturkeytrot.com. • Or gobble a little more gas and head to Corolla’s 8th Annual Thanksgiving Day 5k. 8am start. Find info and registration at www.theobxrunningcompany. com. • Sick of turkey? Head to Rundown Café, where Fried Chicken Mondays and Thurs. Spaghetti Nights spice up the offseason. Just remember: they’ll be closing from Jan. 2 to Feb. 9, and the week of Christmas. More at www.rundowncafe.com. • Blaze north to Historic Corolla Park for Nov. 26’s 6th Annual Whalehead Christmas Craft Village, where locally made gift ideas fill the waterfront grounds while festive folks serve up hot cocoa, carols and community spirit. Plus, Kris Kringle pops in for selfies and present requests. 11am-4pm. Get updates on Facebook @CurrituckOBXevents. • Then come back any Fri. & Sat. night, Nov. 26-Dec. 18, for a Christmas Candlelight Tour of the Whalehead, featuring four floors of 1920s holiday decor and customs — plus live
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graphiccontent gosurf outthere gohunt “Hey-ho, let’s glow!” WinterLights starts rocking Elizabethan Gardens, Nov. 27. Photo: Wes Snyder
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performances on the original Steinway piano. (5-6pm; $20. Tours fill fast, so register in advance at 252-453-9040. Masks may be required.) Or just pop into the new Corolla Christmas Village, where folks can enjoy a free stroll among the lights and holiday sights, plus performances and refreshments, while supporting local merchants. More at www. visitcurrituck.com. • Off to Wal-Mart for Black Friday on Nov. 26? Find the Toys for Tots peeps posted up in the parking lot and pitch them a gift for pipsqueaks in need. Follow their Facebook page for deets. • Or hop the ferry for some festive flotations, Nov. 26, as Ocracoke’s Harbor Parade of Boats rings in the season with a glowing display of lit Silver Lake vessels. Stick around for Nov. 27’s Holiday Gift Certificate Market at the Berkley Barn and you can stock up on faux cash for future visits. More at www.visitocracokenc.com. • At press time, there was no word on when the Colington Yacht Club Holiday Boat Parade lights up, but come out every weekend through Jan. for Sunday Sails — everyone’s favorite, stripped down display of nautical camaraderie. Ships out at 1pm. Full itinerary at www.colingtonyachtclub.com. • Nov. 26-27, be sure drop anchor in Nags Head’s Kitty Hawk Kites for two timeless traditions. On Fri., everyone’s favorite jolly old elf ditches the sleigh for a flexible wing — and poses for selfies — as part of Hanging With Santa. 10am-4pm. And come Sat., Kites With Lights electrifies Jockeys Ridge with fluttering flare from 4-7pm, plus a special 5pm illumination of the State Park Solar Christmas Tree. Warm beverages and baked goods available, and all donations benefit Friends of Jockey’s Ridge. Plug into www.kittyhawk.com for the latest news. • In-between, skip over to the Ramada Inn for Nov. 27’s 9th Annual Outer Banks Entrepreneurs Holiday Bazaar, where 50 artists, crafters and direct saleswomen fill the conference room — and DJ Cowboy jingle-bell-rocks the joint — from 9am-5pm. Find their Facebook page for updates. • Bask in 10 acres of traditional décor and fantastical displays — plus holiday plant sales and more — when Elizabethan Gardens’ WinterLights 2021 sparks the season, Nov. 27. Continues nearly every Tues.-Sun. night through Jan. 16. Find tix, deets and blackout dates at www.elizabethangardens.org. • It seems like the whole county decks the halls these days — from the KDH Frog Pond to the Queen Elizabeth to Clamshell Drive. Wanna know which of your neighbors needs an equity loan to pay their power bill? Follow OBXToday’s Annual Tacky Light Tour at www.obxtoday.com. • Lose the batteries — and find a forever gift — when Dowdy Park Holiday Markets fill Nags Head’s favorite public square with three installments of arts, crafts, food, and the families that love them: Nov. 27 (9am-12pm); Dec. 2 (4-7pm; featuring holiday lights and music); Dec. 11 (9am-12pm). Learn more at the town’s social media pages or call 252-489-8551. • All this seasonal shopping got you feeling salty? Head to Sanctuary Vineyards’ The Big Curri-Shuck, Nov. 27, for all you can eat oysters, crabs and BBQ (while supplies last) — all drenched in a mignonette of local wine and buttery music and served with a souvenir glass. 12-5pm. Full line-up awaits at www.sanctuaryvineyards.com. • On Nov. 28, hook-up future Hendrixes by supporting the Mustang Outreach Program Fundraiser at the Outer Banks Brewing Station. From 12:30-4:30pm, enjoy live tunes by MOP Youth Bands — plus Ruth Wyand, Olivia Sawtell, Amanda Williams and Anchor Blazer — while shopping for music gear to rock any gift list. $5 suggested donation supports school-age musicians. Full score on Facebook. • Rather hook up a fish? Be warned! Jennette’s Pier trims their hours down to 9am-5pm, starting Dec. 1. Get updates at www.jennettespier.net. • On Dec. 2, witness a Christmas miracle! At 5pm, Lucky 12 Tavern will magically transform into Jingle 12. Inside, it’s a twinkling display of nostalgic décor. Out back, reserve a private igloo, ski lodge, or ice fishing shed for dinner. Mix in holiday-themed cocktails and apps, you got the chillest place for mingling all season long. Find their social media feeds for the latest. • Christmas in Manteo skids into town, Dec. 2, as Santa Claus sleighs around Roanoke Island neighborhoods starting at 5:30pm. On Dec. 3, the whole town sparks a conifer at 6pm for the Downtown Manteo Tree Lighting, and streets overflow with community spirit, carols and hot cocoa — plus a special guest reading of ‘Twas the Night Before Christmas. And come back Sat., Dec. 4. for the annual Christmas Parade, where marching bands march, Shriners swerve, and float-riders fling candy all over the waterfront
Coming in 2022
Feb. 20, 27 & Mar. 6, 13
March 27 – April 2
Bryan Cultural Series Film Festival
Elizabeth R. & Company’s Searchers for New Horizons
Four Films, Four Sundays with introductions by Prof. Christopher Palestrant
April 8
Four Seasons Chamber Music Festival
Piano, Violin and Clarinet Trio at All Saints Episcopal Church 7:30 PM
August 22 – 26
8th Annual Surf and Sound Chamber Music Series
OBX History Weekend
Coming Soon...
James Hill Guitar and Ukulele Virtuoso Date and Venue TBD
All this and more coming in 2022 For details visit
BryanCulturalSeries.org
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endnotes — before our favorite jolly fat man circles back in a firetruck. Starts at 10:30am sharp — but show up early if you want a good view. More at www.manteonc.gov. • In Manteo for the Fri. night festivities? Let Downtown Books add some Halloween to the holiday, Dec. 3, as John Railey will be autographing editions of The Lost Colony Murder on the Outer Banks. Snag a signed copy of this top local seller for your favorite mystery fan. 4-6pm. More at www.duckscottage.com. • Then pick up an oil painting for your arts lover, as Dare County Arts Council unveils their Gail Midgett Exhibit, Dec. 3. (Hangs through Feb. 19.) Or pop upstairs to peruse Rob Snyder’s “Mirage” — an eye-popping collection of seascapes, sculptures and surreal perspectives. (Hangs through Jan. 22.) More at www.darearts.org. • You can’t get more traditional than Island Farm’s Christmas on the North End. On Dec. 3,4, 10, &11, from 3-5pm, our favorite 19th century working farm mixes traditional trimmings and living history. Hear stories from the past while making Christmas crafts, enjoying tasty treats and gathering around a fire. Find the current agenda at www.islandfarm.com. • Score a nightly dose of nostalgia any evening through Dec. 30, as the Historic Old Manteo Candlelight Walking Tour strolls down a 400-year-long memory lane leading back to the Lost Colony, with stops for pirates, aviation pioneers and more. Step to www. manteowalkingtour.com for a schedule. • And dance over to Roanoke Island Festival Park during daytime hours for an ear-opening exhibit featuring the contributions of African American Musicians of North Carolina to regional and popular culture. An interactive touch screen allows visitors to meet artists and hear musical creations while an adjacent room displays various instruments. Guests can also learn about the NC Arts Council’s African American Music Trails. Now though Dec. 30. Details at www.festivalpark.com. • Disco north, Dec. 4, for more dazzling displays at the Town of Duck’s 11th Annual Yuletide Celebration. From 3-5pm, enjoy the illuminated Crabpot Tree and spirited carols — while
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hitting up Santa Claus for gifts and selfies, of course. Then come back any weekday through Jan. 26 to appreciate colorful art by Taunya Moore as part of the Rotating Art Show. (Mon.-Fri., 9am-4:30pm; holidays excluded.) More at www.townofduck.com. • Supersize your holiday shopping with a fistful of Wacky Whimsical Winterland Markets. Be at Jack Brown’s Beer & Burger Joint, Dec. 3-4, 10-11, 17-18, & 23, as Muse Originals OBX and other local vendors serve up killer art, cozy drinks, holiday music, and plenty of cheer. 11am4pm. Find their Facebook pages for updates. • Succulents are evergreens right? Right?! On Dec. 4, get all the correct answers on raising this perennial holiday favorite at Elizabethan Gardens’ Christmas Cactus Workshop. Or let Centerpiece Workshops show you how to perfect one-of-a-kind flower displays (Dec. 17, 18 & 19; 10-12pm). Or see how Dec. 19’s Poinsettia Workshop can furnish your home with festive flourish. 2-4pm. Or just enjoy tasty hors d’ oeuvres, bubbly spirits, holiday sales, and door prizes when Ladies Nights return Dec. 6 & 13. 5-7pm. And if you’re looking to feast with the fat man, tix for Dec. 18’s Dinner With Santa will stop selling on Dec. 10 at 12pm. Get info on pricing and space limitations at www.elizabethangardens.org. • Some folks don’t have a home to furnish at all. On Dec. 5, help put a temporary or transitional roof over their heads — and enjoy a fine meal from Kelly’s Catering — by supporting OBX Room in the Inn’s Lunch-to-Go Fundraiser. $25 buys you a tasty meatloaf or jambalaya meal to take home — complete with sweet potato biscuits, of course. Pick up between 11am-3pm at 9th Ave., KDH, and enjoy a live DJ while you wait. Get advanced tix and deets at www.obxroomintheinn.org — or call 252-255-1133. • Then help feed your favorite creative types, Dec. 5, when the Annual Starving Artists Holiday Party posts up at Swellsa’ Brewing. This nearly fourdecade tradition always promises the top local talents, from Dawn Moraga to Meg Rubino — Noah Snyder to John Bliven. And, of course, Victor & Ellen Berg. Find updates on
BEERS BURGERS BEATS JACK BROWN’S 11AM ‘TIL LATE NIGHT EVERYDAY! MP 8 1/2 on the Beach Road, KDH
social media. • Will Scrooge’s ghastly mentor finally break his chains? See what the Dickens happens to a not-so-minor character when Theatre of Dare presents Jacob Marley’s Christmas Carol at the old Dare County Courthouse (DCAC), Dec. 9-11 (7 pm) and Dec. 12 (2pm). Plus, prepare for two more comedies to lighten your offseason: Jan.’s Five Women Wearing The Same Dress and Feb.’s Arsenic and Old Lace. Find tix, dates and audition deets at www.theatreofdareobx.com. • Caring for someone with dementia? Need a helping hand? Gentle Expert Memory Care’s Harmony Café meets at KDH’s Baum Center, the second Fri. of each month — Dec. 10, Jan. 14 and Feb. 11. Email gsonnesso@gmail.com to pre-register at least three days prior — or call 252-480-3354 — then be there at 2pm. Details at www.gemdayservices.org. • Got a Jeep? Help rev-up a needy kid’s Christmas by joining Dec. 11’s Dare County Motorsports Charity Group/CAT5 Jeepers’ Merry Jeepmas Toy Run. Just bring $20 and a new toy to Walmart at 9:30am to decorate your ride, then holiday party down the Beach Road to the Gift Garden. Motor over to CAT5 Jeepers and OBX Jeepers Facebook pages for more. • Or deck your boat trailer with boughs of holly at Dec. 11’s Hatteras Village Christmas Parade! Besides festive floats and music, there are cash prizes for winning participants, plus cookies and hot chocolate for peeps who watch. Learn more at www.hatterasonmymind.com or the Hatteras Village Facebook Page. • On Dec. 17, the 118th Anniversary of Powered Flight turns Wright Bros. Memorial into an all-day party, including the traditional Morning Flyover. Plus, Sally Ride — America’s First Woman in Space — gets posthumously inducted into the Paul E. Garber Shrine. And there’s no entry fee, so it’s the
perfect day to explore the monument. Find the First Flight Society Facebook Page for a full sched. • That means the Candy Bomber’s back in town! Besides participating in Dec. 17’s, Fri. am flyover, Col. Halvorsen and crew host a forum at the Dare County Municipal Center at 6:30pm. On Dec. 18, the “Spirit of Freedom” will be open to the public Dare County Regional Airport, while the official candy drop occurs on Dec. 19 at 1pm, with Santa time to follow at 1:30pm. (Stay tuned to local news outlets for times and updates.) • Prefer to jet around in America’s first woman sneakers? Be at Southern Shores Marketplace, Dec. 18, in space, Sally Ride, for the Outer Banks Jingle Jog. Distances range from 1/4receives posthumous mile to 10k, with shirts and medals for all participants, plus honors at Dec. 17’s post-race refreshments and photo ops with St. Nick. 8am Wright Bros. celebration. Photo: NASA start. More www.obxrunning.com. • Help keep your neighbors warm and fed, Dec. 18, when the Manteo Police Department and Pea Island Preservation Society host a food and coat drive. From 10am-3pm you can drop nonperishable items and winter clothing at Downtown Manteo’s Magnolia Pavilion or the Pea Island Cookhouse Museum on Sir Walter Raleigh Street. Follow the town Facebook page for updates. • Come Dec. 24, it’s “Bro, bro, bros” before “ho, ho, hos” at the KDH Cooperative Gallery’s Annual Man Sale. From 10am-2pm, chill with your fellow man — and pig out on manly food and bevvies — while local artists help you find the perfect art piece to show your sensitive side. More at www.obxlocalart.com. • At press time, most Town of Manteo’s New Year’s Eve event details were still TBD, but we know you can ring in 2022 with some top-notch twang, as Pickin’ at the Pioneer Theatre hosts Breaking Grass. Tunes start at 10pm and end just in time for you to chase down a midnight toast. Deets at www.
The Elizabethan Gardenss
a million lights of
HOLIDAY SPECTACLE! Presented by
Sponsored in part by
TICKETS ON SALE NOW! elizabethangardens.org
Nov. 27 - Jan. 16 (select nights)
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endnotes Commerce (KDH); Outer Banks Association of Realtors (Nags Head); Mt. Olivet bluegrassboxoffice.com. • Live south of the bridge? Like to crash early? Pangea Tavern’s Old Farts NYE Party in Avon event features a delicious, three-course meal, live music by Eli Church (Manteo); or the Fessenden Center (Hatteras). (Think age-appropriate evening gowns, tuxedos, suits, dress shirts, dress shoes, evening bags, jewelry — plus-size dresses are Thompson and friends, a 10pm anchor drop, and complimentary champagne toast. Call always appreciated.) Then, from Feb. 17-19, Manteo Faith Baptist Church will open their 252-995-3800 to reserve your table with family & friends. Find deets and a menu at www. doors for high schoolers to find and wear stuff for free! More importantly, moving on, they pangeatavern.com. • For lovers of late nights, details were still fuzzy as a morning hangover need a new home to store all their gear from year-to-year. If you’ve got extra space to offer, — but! — we guarantee you can find a good time at the Outer Banks Brewing Station’s NYE Party, where there’s sure to be a hot band, cold bubbly, dropping balloons, and toasty email projectglamgirls@gmail.com. • The whole beach is a red carpet affair when the Bryan Cultural Series Film Festival delivers four Sundays of cinema — Feb. 20 & 27, Mar. 6 & 13 people. Check www.obbrewing.com for updates. • And sweat out those holiday toxins — — featuring introductions by ECSU Professor Christopher Palestrant. And come back for before taking in new ones — when Tortuga’s NYE 5K returns Jan. 31. The race will start ’round 10pm. No sign-ups or fees — but you can buy tees. Get the latest at www.tortugaslie. a double dose of drama via Elizabeth R and Co.’s Searchers of New Horizons during com. • If centuries of stubborn tradition hold true, Hatteras Islanders will celebrate Old OBX history Weekend, Mar. 27- Apr. 2. Find deets and venues at www.bryanculturalseries. Christmas on Jan. 8. For decades, folks Down South have shucked oysters and shot rifles com. • Wanna help a whole load of local do-gooders at one time? On Feb. 22, join the the first Sat. after Epiphany. Don’t live over the bridge? Make sure you’re gone before Old Outer Banks Community Foundation’s Annual Membership Meeting at Jennette’s Buck shows his horns. Stay tuned Pier. In addition to grants, to the local grapevine for updates. scholarships and other initiatives, • Then get ready for a most they will be celebrating the sophisticated tradition: The Frank visionaries and founders who Stick Memorial Art Show. From created the non-profit forty years Jan. 28-Feb. 26, this longestago. Updates at www.obcf.org. • running Outer Banks art show fills Duck hunter? Wildlife lensman? the Dare County Arts Council Just like watching birds? Shoot with the best creative minds in a down south, Feb. 25-26, as the battle for blue ribbons and Hatteras Village Waterfowl bragging rights. See who’s Festival celebrates the Outer hanging, how to enter — and get Banks’ avian diversity. Start with a the final word on opening night Fri. night Fin, Feather and festivities — at www.darearts.org. Bourbon Social, pairing fresh • On Feb. 5, head north as Jill local seafood with fine Carolina Block takes over the Town of hooch. Sat.’s big day lines up Duck Rotating Art Show. From carvers, artists, vendors, and 3-5pm, enjoy light refreshments demos — plus historical bus tours and talk with the artist about her and a bird watching cruise. Full paintings. Or come back any sched. at www.hatterasonmymind. weekday to peruse at your own com. • Late winter is usually the pace. (Mon.-Fri., 9am-4:30pm; time of year when local seniors holidays excluded.) Updates at flying off to college can get help www.townofduck.com. • Win a floating tuitions. Ask your high Gaga for galaxies? On Feb. 12, whirl your way south, as Starry Nights on Hatteras Island shot at a wild summer party by counselor about Dare County delivers pro tips from astronomical experts. Photo: David Thomas participating in the Outer Banks Scholarships offered by area Hospital and Kellogg Supply benefactors every year. Company’s “Fun in the Sun” Backyard Raffle. Every $20 ticket’s a chance at $3500 in Applications traditionally start late Feb. • Maybe you’re a young couple about to get gear, including a Wilmington Grill, Yeti cooler, a grip of outdoor furniture — plus a hitched? Or a nuptial biz just getting started? The Outer Banks Wedding Expo is set for backyard BBQ for 20 guests, courtesy of Pigman’s. Proceeds benefit the hospital’s Cancer Mar. 5-6, cramming more than 130 photogs, planners, DJs, and caterers into a two-day expo. Center Campaign. Find tickets at www.theobh.com or at Kellogg’s. Just buy ’em by Feb. 11, Learn more at www.obxwa.com. • On Mar. 5, show Elizabethan Gardens a little love via because winners will be picked on Feb. 12. • Go gaga for winter’s galactic displays, Feb. 12, Spring Fling Clean-Up Day! From 9am-11pm, help staff and volunteers prep the grounds as Starry Nights on Hatteras Island hosts a visiting astronomer for an instructional for the 2022 season. Light snack and beverages provided, but please bring your own gloves presentation that’s sure to encourage future astronauts — and inspire space nuts of every if possible — and wear rubber boots or old shoes. Get all the dirty details at www. age. Get a full sched. at www.hatterasonmymind.com. • Hungry for love? Let Elizabethan elizabethangardens.org. • Winter got you cooped up with the kids? Hope springs eternal, Gardens arrange a romantic, at-home meal for you and your prospective sweetie with Feb. Mar. 7, when Jennette’s Pier Summer Camps begins registering weeks of surfing, fishing 12’s’ All We Need Is Love/Valentine’s 2GO Dinner Package. Order in advance at www. and more. They all fill fast, so be poised to strike at 9am sharp. More at www.jennettespier. elizabethangardens.org, then pick up between 3-5pm. Dig into the site for menu and net. • And the spring calendar is already starting to warm up with favorite events. On Mar. pricing. • Or chase some hot number around Sanctuary Vineyards at Feb. 12’s Love on 19, it’s Elizabethan Gardens’ annual tail wagger for Fido-loving families, Peace Love & The Run 5K. $45 buys you a spot in the race, plus an afterparty with two drink tickets, a free Dogs. (See www.elizabethangardens.org for details.) Come Mar. 20, locals line the beach bottle of wine, and a souvenir glass. Learn more at www.obxrunning.com. • Help a local teen road — and load up on libations — for the 31st Annual St. Patrick’s Day Parade. (Find look top-notch for prom by supporting Project Glam Girls! Here’s how it works: folks deets on Facebook or www.kellysrestaurant.com.) And last we heard, Taste of the Beach is donate old prom gear at Barco Library; Atlantic Realty (Kitty Hawk); OB Chamber of holding off until April. Visit www.obxtasteofthebeach.com for the latest.
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eat ... l a c o l p sho ! l a c o l s t r i h s th u g g ies
sauces ha t s
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gif t s e t a c i f i t r ce s w eats h irts 252.441.7889 • MamaKwans.com
Lunch 11:30 AM & Dinner 4 PM • Call for Closing Times • Closed Mondays milepost 47
Holiday Cheers! Celebrate the season with two festive releases.
Our infamous Elf Crusher ale, left in a Outer Banks Distilling rum barrel for a year to age and let that wild yeast do its thing.
8% APVs! Pa-RUM-pa-pum-pum!
A British strong ale infused with Outer Banks Distilling candied pecans. A strong malt character with a slight spiciness.
Serving our Island of Misfit Toys with peace, joy and love since 2001.
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