OUTER BANKS MILEPOST: ISSUE 4.4

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FREE Issue 4.4

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in the outthere beginning... gohunt

Outer Bankers did everything. They caught and foraged their own food. Cooked their own meals. Salvaged their own wrecks to build their own shelter. If you weren’t a lighthouse keeper, postmaster or life-station worker, nobody cut you a check. (Or a break.)

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With time came industry, and with industry came jobs: you might run a charter boat or fish house. Develop real estate. Own an eatery. More likely you’d do the grunt work: Bang nails. Wait tables. Flip houses. Cut filets. (Probably some combination of them all.) But in terms of economic opportunity, the choices stayed limited. Unless your dream career was chef, contractor or sea-farmer, finding a fulfilling professional life would always come second to enjoying a coastal lifestyle. Not anymore. Fueled on fresh technologies,

a bulging year-round population and a booming tourist biz, the number of ways to wring a real trade from rustic terrain has tripled over the past two decades. Crack a Beach Book, you’ll see pages of lawyers ready to litigate. Rows of accountants who can’t wait to crunch numbers. The mere number of doctors and medical workers will give you a heart attack. And that’s just for starters. All around us, friends and neighbors don’t merely survive — they thrive — performing whole new tasks that would have never lasted a single winter back in the day. How many folks do you know who design websites or document weddings? Perform licensed massage or jump out of planes? Meanwhile, the spectrum of mainstay revenue streams runs Technicolor. Instead of one-stop shops for every good, retailers

sell every stripe of specialty, from wine to candy. Contractors focus on building “green” houses. And restaurants run the gamut, from the fastest food to the finest dining. (I’d dare say there’s kitchens down here that even own a deep fryer.)

In the 1800s, lighthouses employed maybe four people. Today, one beacon can keep dozens of locals busy, from park rangers to wedding planners to freelance photographers. Photo: Jay Wickens

The real benefit of a booming economy isn’t the uptick in dollars. It’s the vast change in destiny.

Clearly, last year’s record one billion tourist dollars are flowing into way more than food service. They’re pouring out on the pavement,

pooling up in areas people never even considered. After all, a hundred years ago, lighthouses drew ships, not people. Punching holes was something you did on a house — not a human. And nobody fed fish — the fish fed you. Sure, the streets aren’t paved with benjamins like the big city. And you may not find your fairytale position listed under ‘classifieds’ in the Coastland Times or Craigslist. But with skill, desire and determination, a willing entrepreneur can build a rewarding life. And that’s the real benefit of a booming economy. It’s not the uptick in dollars. It’s the vast change in destiny, allowing people to pursue not just a paycheck — but a passion. Once upon a time, every Outer Banker did everything. Now, we do almost anything we want. — Matt Walker

Thank you for reading Outer Banks Milepost. We hope you’ve enjoyed it. If not — before chucking this issue in the nearest dumpster — please consider one of the following equally satisfying ways of expressing your disgust: circle and arrow your least-favorite parts, then mail it in like a Monday-morning editor; tick-off every typo like a freelance proofreader. (Lord knows we need the help). Then, send any and all feedback — positive, negative or just plain confused — to: editor@outerbanksmilepost.com. Or light us up on Facebook with your opinions and ideas. We promise to find some way to re-purpose them. milepost 3


USED WATERSPORTS EQUIPMENT

“He who works with his hands is a laborer. He who works with his hands and his head is a craftsman. He who works with his hands and his head and his heart is an artist.” — Francis of Assisi “But what I do I do because I like to do.” — Alex, A Clockwork Orange Issue 4.4 Winter 2015 Cover: Piercing gaze. Photo: Chris Bickford

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editor@outerbanksmilepost.com • sales@outerbanksmilepost.com Outer Banks Milepost is published quarterly (sorterly) by Suite P Inc. All contents are the property of Suite P Inc. and do not reflect the opinion of advertisers or distributors. Nor do their contents reflect that of the creative types (who would never, ever sell out). Comments, letters and submissions are usually welcome. Please include SASE for return delivery of all snail mail, however, Milepost and Suite P Inc. still aren’t responsible for any unsolicited materials. And don’t expect much else to move much faster than IST (Island Standard Time). Oh yeah: if you reprint a lick of this content you’re ripping us off. (Shame on you.) To discuss editorial ideas, find out about advertising or tell us we blew it – or just find out what the waves are doing – call 252-441-6203 or email: editor@outerbanksmilepost.com; sales@outerbanksmilepost.com. www.outerbanksmilepost.com


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03 StartingPoint Celebrate diversity.

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06 UpFront Weekly rentals, working woes and capital costs. 18 GetActive Heal thy neighbor.

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21 FirstPerson Eddie Greene thinks inside the box. 22 QuestionAuthority Life on the inside with Dare Co.’s Jail Administrator.

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Discover What’s New at the Cotton Gin

25 OddJobs Six occupations that redefine the phrase, “It’s a living.” 28 GraphicContent Who made this stupid comic? (Not us.) 40 GoGrapple David Derby’s next round. 42 FoodDrink Behind the green indoors. 44 ArtisticLicense “Warp speed, Mr. Cloth…” 46 SoundCheck Bill Rea’s joyous reprisal. 49 OutThere Sand gets in your eyes. 50 EndNotes Winter dates worth digging through.

“Cansumed by Art” by Shirley Ruff www.shirleyruff.com “Art is kind of obsessive. Even when I’m not doing it, I’m thinking about it: what I’ll do. How I’ll do it. That’s why I like making these big encaustic and tin collage pieces. I like finding the old shutters and doors. Picking the tin. Creating the pattern. And the encaustic medium is a mix of liquid wax and oil and a dammar varnish, so you can take a cloth and keep rubbing until it shines just right. Sometimes, I’ll even get all the tin pieces nailed up and I won’t like what I see, so I’ll pull it all off and replace it. I’m just happy I have places to hang my work. Because it’s not like I could stop making it.” — Shirley Ruff

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upfront soundcheck STRANGERS AMONG US All over the world, Airbnb is changing the way visitors vacation. Here, it’s changing how locals survive. getactive Retirement is looming for Julie Hume and her husband. But income still needs to be incoming. So when the KDH couple heard how friends were socking away savings by renting space in their homes to visitors online — and everyone was happy — their vacant garage apartment suddenly started calling.

had some very wonderful guests and they truly appreciate the beauty of what we have here.”

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“I thought maybe the space would help supplement our Social Security,” Hume says, chatting at a table in her second-floor studio near Nags Head Woods. “That’s all we’re trying to do: take care of ourselves.”

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So, in late June, Hume posted her “Treehouse Retreat” on Airbnb.com, and right away she had five inquiries. By September, she had more than 13 bookings: newlyweds, new parents with their baby, retirees and young adults, all from different parts of the country. For Hume, inviting travelers into her home wasn’t much of a stretch. As the former director of the Eastern Surfing Association’s Outer Banks district, she and her husband Bill are used to hosting out-of-town competitors during the fall contest season. Airbnb merely stretches the number and variety of guests — and pays her for the hard work and hospitality.

Airbnb — and similar “community marketplaces” like VRBO (Vacation Rental By Owner) and its parent site Homeaway — are middle men between owners and travelers seeking accommodations. Owners must qualify with the services before posting lodging online; renters can search descriptions and photographs of listings by location and price. Rents and taxes are submitted to the company, which keeps a small portion of the total fee. All three services are just another example of today’s “sharing economy,” where the web allows individuals to take on roles once supplied solely by brick-and-mortar businesses. And all are booming.

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“It’s more rewarding than just money,” says Julie, who handles all the cleaning and upkeep of the apartment herself. “We’ve

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1.5 million listings in more than 34,000 cities and 190 countries — including 100-plus properties on the Outer Banks. Even more are available on VRBO. Yet, while some hosts worry about backlash from the county or the rental and hotel industry — most sources contacted for this article would talk only under condition of anonymity — such fears seem unfounded. In fact, many rental companies offer a VRBO plan. And at least one government

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“Your One-Stop Habit Shop”

official and industry player is part of the trend. “Years ago, you didn’t have this whole third-party booking apparatus,” says Dare County Commissioner Warren Judge, who also owns numerous motels and rental properties, and first listed one of his properties on VRBO in 2002. “Times change.”

There have been bumps, including a lawsuit by Dare County against some third-party booking companies who had kept occupancy taxes. But now that all appropriate sales and occupancy taxes are collected at booking and submitted to the county, the services on the Outer Banks seem to be tolerated — and even appreciated.

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“From the county’s viewpoint,” Judge says, “more people collecting more taxes — you’ve got to be happy.” And as far as his motels? Well, they haven’t taken a hit either. At least not yet. “Our numbers are up,” he says. “Will it be more competition for me? It could be.” Or it could be a solution for long-term growth. With McMansions replacing hotels the past few decades, small families and couples who can’t afford a 10-bedoom house — or don’t want to vacation with massive groups — have fewer options. Proponents of Airbnb say it fills that gap, attracting folks to the Outer Banks who may not have been inclined to travel here before, with a format that appeals to a younger demographic — websavvy millennials and thirty-somethings — who may now become lifetime visitors. As one source put it, “We aren’t building any more hotels. This gives those people a place to stay.”

Furthermore, while hoteliers in big cities complain that Airbnb’s clients enjoy a competitive advantage due to less regulation and lower overhead — and urban residents say they can’t find good long-term apartments as landlords look to maximize profits — such charges are harder to level on the Outer Banks. Here, the summer tourist market has always made finding year-round rentals a challenge. And if a rich out-oftowner can rent his second home for extra revenue, why can’t a local rent an extra room to pay his mortgage? “There’s a lot of people out of work,” says Patti Hook, a Colington accountant who has clients posting spare rooms, vacant motherin-law apartments and off-season rentals. “Construction is still slow. So a lot of people are doing it for additional income. And if they’re not doing it, they want to do it.” In fact, many of the host biographies mention holding three or four other jobs. For them, “innkeeper” is just another parttime occupation, like waiter or pool-cleaner. Fortunately, Airbnb lets the host set the times and parameters: summer, a single night, a holiday weekend, or for special events; a couch, a room, an entire house — or a yacht. As long as the landlord doesn’t mind, renters can even share their space with Airbnb customers. Sounds sketchy, but unlike hotels, hosts can choose who they work with. And both renters and lodgers must post reviews after staying, rewarding good behavior and keeping profiles up-to-date. Not that you can’t find a few horror stories. (A young traveler in Spain claims he was held as a sexual slave by his host; and a homeowner in

San Fran rented to a meth addict who trashed his house and stole his identity.) But everyone we spoke with had nothing but positive reports.

“We’ve had some very wonderful guests here,” says Hume. “We haven’t had anyone be disrespectful.”

If an outof-towner can rent his second home for extra revenue, why can’t a local rent a room to pay his mortgage?

Airbnb has added more safeguards for hosts, including a $1 million guarantee for damage protection. Guests are also provided with assistance when problems arise with approved hosts. Furthermore, all e-mail addresses and phone numbers are screened out in communications between hosts and guests to maintain anonymity. But only if you don’t live here. For locals, scanning the biographical profiles can be surprisingly entertaining — and revealing — as many residents make no attempt to hide their unique personalities.

For example, every Nags Header probably knows “Mary,” who is offering a small house on the Beach Road: “I live on this same property, in a similar cottage, along with my esteemed colleague,

best friend, local renowned, beach wanderin’, bacon lovin’, shade chasin’, local surf legend, 14-year-old black lab, Lola.” Keep reading, and you’re sure to find a bevy of familiar friends — and surprisingly few bad reviews. Perhaps it’s because Outer Bankers have so much practice. After all, we’ve welcomed strangers our whole lives — we just may not have hosted them in our own houses. Inside the Treehouse Retreat, Julie Hume displays her caretaking propensities to the max. Besides the basics, she leaves crackers and cheese (Havarti dill, no less) for arriving guests. Welcome notes dress the table and sit next to a thick folder filled with helpful information and suggestions. Bicycles and an outdoor grill are available for the asking. A heated saltwater pool behind the apartment is open for sharing. Privacy is respected, but if guests seem so inclined, Hume will gladly socialize. “I think that it’s really special because people can come to this beautiful place and experience it at a different level,” Hume says. “They’re exploring it. They’re taking advantage of the things we have here. I want them to have a good Outer Banks experience.” And that’s Airbnb’s whole philosophy: encouraging residents to show off their homes; to share the things they love about the area with travelers. Locals get to meet people from different places. Guests get a real look at local life at a reasonable rate. Everybody gets more than they bargained for. — Catherine Kozak

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BURNING RUBBER How a huge stash of tires left locals and law enforcement dazed and confused.

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Under the headline “More Dope Floats up on Beaches,” the Coastland Times of October 25, 1979 reported “a total of 36 inner tubes packed with Mideast hashish [were] recovered from Duck to Ocracoke.”

gokite milepost In the late ’70’s, “tire slackers” took on a whole new meaning. Photo: Stacy Stedenko

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Part of the lure and the lore of the sea is its mystery. The great Atlantic is always taking and giving with the ebb and flow of the tide. Anyone familiar with the Beachcomber Museum’s collection of seashells, driftwood and assorted bottles — amassed by Nags Head’s legendary glassgather Nelly Myrtle Pridgen — can attest to the variety of treasures and trinkets that find their way to the sand. But even Ms. Pridgen would’ve been blown away by the tons of tar-like jetsam that washed up on the Outer Banks in the late 70s. The stuff was not oil. Nor was it petroleum-based. But, man, was it sticky.

To this date, it remains one of the largest drug seizures in Outer Banks history — totaling an estimated $3 million.

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But it wasn’t just the size that made the find so amazing, but the packing. The illegal drug, derived from the resin of marijuana buds, was pressed into a brick or block shape, placed into plastic bags and then hidden inside truck tire inner tubes. Officials floated theories as to how the suspicious packages arrived. Most speculated that one of the parties involved in a boat-to-boat drug deal rendezvous had failed to pick up their haul at a designated time and place, so the tires were set to sea. At that time U.S. Customs officials were aware that drugs were being trafficked into the region by boat. According to a 1976 newspaper article, “isolated areas such as Sandbridge, Back Bay, the Outer Banks of North Carolina and Accomac on Virginia’s Eastern Shore [were] known targets of smugglers.” Following the initial find, an air search was conducted and law enforcement from the State Bureau of Investigation, National Park

Service, Dare County Sheriff’s Department and the Coast Guard were brought in to try to locate the waterborne narcotics. Several packages were found adrift in Hatteras Inlet. And Sol Rose, a recreational boater from Franklin, Virginia, also retrieved three inner tubes he found floating five miles out to sea. All that booty was turned over to the U.S. Customs Department, but a spokesman for the SBI thought “it was very probable that a portion of the contraband found its way into the hands of private citizens in the area.” Good hunch. One longtime Outer Banks resident, “William M.,” who asked that we not reveal more of his identity, remembers first seeing the contraband at a keg party back in his younger and blonder days — and still smelling it elsewhere for years — as more supply trickled in one tire at a time. In fact, into the mid-80s an abundance of inexpensive hash remained available to partaking carpenters, plumbers and drywallers; cooks, waitresses and bus boys; artists, musicians and fishermen; hotel clerks,

real estate agents and general n’erdo-wells.

“Fishermen were picking it up in their nets,” Mr. M. suggests, “It was the fishermen bringing it in, even if it was by mistake.”

one large inhale filled lungs with thick, acrid fumes.

All of them soon found the biggest mistake was smoking the stuff. Not because it killed brain cells, but because one large inhale filled lungs with thick, acrid fumes that tasted like smoldering rubber.

But enterprising Bankers soon found a solution: instead of sparking it up they swallowed it whole. Keep in mind the spirit of the time: Cheech and Chong were scoring big at the box office with stoner cult movies

like Up in Smoke. And the whole country laughed at Saturday Night Live skits laced with drug innuendoes. It was all funny until 1982 when SNL superstar John Belushi was found dead from a mixture of cocaine and heroin. That same year First Lady Nancy Reagan challenged the nation’s youth to “Just Say No,” sparking a 30year trend of tougher enforcement. At least until modern times, when half the U.S. has relaxed cannabis laws for pharmaceutical or recreational use. Just remember: none of those states are North Carolina. And none of the recreational uses include beach driving. — Sarah Downing

Sources include: “More Hash Found Along Coast,” Toledo Blade, Oct. 22, 1979; “Virginia Landfall for Smuggling,” Fredericksburg Star, Oct. 1, 1976; “More Dope Floats up on Beaches,” Coastland Times, Oct. 25, 1979.

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upfront soundcheck getactive startingpoint roadmap gokite Amilepost cheering, jeering look at recent events and their potential impacts

DOLLA, DOLLA BIL, Y’ALL When it comes to tourist dollars, nothing makes it rain like a little sunshine. Summer 2014 must’ve been sunny as hell, because Dare County’s visitation economic impact figure grew 7% to bust the billion-dollar mark for the first time ever. ($1.02 billion to be exact.) Furthermore, Currituck jumped 4.7% to $144.18 million — and Hyde upticked 2.49% to $33.17 mil — for a total of nearly $1.2 billion, three broken records, and the biggest smash-hit season in Outer Banks history. BROWN WATER BLUES Now here’s a little ditty to bring the house down. We call it: “Episodic elevated levels of bacteria from fecal

contamination.” And, according to a decade-long study, it pipes out of outfalls from KDH to Nags Head after each heavy rain, polluting water for hundreds of yards. Add the leaky septic tanks and stormwater run-off, and it makes for a nasty mix that sickens swimmers — and makes visitors shuffle vacation spots. Look for a final report of the Ocean Outfall Master Plan in the months to come — but when it comes to solutions, don’t expect developers and residents to sing the same tune.

DON’T GET STUCK STICKERLESS Before you fire up the 4WD in KDH this winter, you better cruise by town hall. With complaints of joyriders and deep ruts ruining the sand for pedestrians, the board introduced a $25 annual beach driving permit from HEAVEN CAN’T WAIT Oct. to April. That’s the bad news. The Come 2017, Ocracoke’s backwater good news? They teamed up with paradise will be just a hop, skip and high-speed boat ride away. With wait Nags Head, so you can cross borders. The better news? Every dollar equals times reaching up to two hours for one less kook carving the beach — vehicles lined up for the traditional free ferry — and numbers down since and one less dumbass you have to dig out of the access. the 2007 — NC DOT announced

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CURB YOUR ENTHUSIASM Green Party partiers rejoice! Come Feb. 2, Nags Head will be the first municipality to join the modern world by using property taxes to pay for residential recycling. No longer will your weekend hangover include hauling bottles and cans to the Barnes Street dumpster. Instead, you can fill a blue bin at the end of your driveway. So can curbside-conditioned visitors, which means less overflowing garbage to blow down our streets. TELL US SOMETHING WE DON’T KNOW Did you hear? We dodged a bullet. So said every media outlet from Myrtle to Maine after Hurricane Joaquin tracked east in Oct. to spare the East Coast. Still, our brush with disaster wasn’t entirely victimless: flooding on Hatteras Island caused roughly $591,000 in damage — $423,000 in Buxton alone. And in Kitty Hawk, the same troubled

stretch of Route 12 took another tumble into the sea, with an estimated $413k repair job supposed to finish in Dec. Still, we got lucky. As a potential Cat 3 storm, a direct hit from Joaquin would’ve felt less like a bullet — and more like a bomb. IS THE ANSWER BLOWING IN THE WIND? Proponents of turbines — and opponents of offshore drilling — got a fresh power surge in Sept. when the Bureau of Ocean Energy Management announced they’ll be moving ahead with Wind Energy Leases off NC. While that process will take years, 34 miles of farmland west of Elizabeth City are poised to become the Southeast’s first wind-powered utility by Dec. 2016, yielding megawatts to go with them ‘maters — and putting Northeastern NC on the cutting edge of the renewable energy.

GRAINY MATH In Oct., Nags Head announced that beach nourishment was showing mixed results after four years. Actually, it wasn’t the town — it was the engineering firm behind the project who produced yet another positive spin. If you remember, the original report was, “My! What a wide beach!” Later it became, “All that missing sand is still in the system.” Now they’re boasting over losing an average of 15 percent — even though South Nags Head’s most vulnerable miles of beach are down 45 to 70 percent — and suggesting a re-fill project by 2018. But the real head-scratcher isn’t whether their math is correct, it’s why — in a community full of objective coastal scientists — do we keep asking the people who did the job to grade their own work? For detailed reports of these stories, breaking local news — plus pages of local discussion — visit www.outerbanksvoice.com, www. islandfreepress.org and www.obsentinel.com.

SMART-ASS COMMENT OF THE MONTH “Maybe after Donald Trump finishes building the wall across the Mexican and Canadian borders, he can come to NC and build this sea wall.” — OBV LVR, “Pounding surf floods Kitty Hawk, Buxton and Ocracoke,” Oct. 4, 2015, www.OuterBanksVoice.com.

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WHADDYA RECKON?

We got questions — you got answers. getactive Ryan Bell, 30 Pizza Shop Manager Southern Shores

startingpoint “I was working a hydraulic press. Right as I actuated the press, a co-worker came over to talk to me and stuck his hand inside. He had the tips of two fingers nipped off.”

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Chris Anderson, 46 Hotel Reception Nags Head

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“One of the wildest experiences I’ve had on the clock was as an eco-tour guide in Costa Rica. We got surrounded by a group of whale sharks on a diving trip. We held on to them and went for a little ride.”

“What’s your wildest work story?” Brent Taylor, 37 Air Force Radar Tech Manteo “I work next to a bombing range. One day I heard a whizzing noise and a bunch of dirt hit the side of my office. I walked outside to find that a training bomb was a wee bit off target due to some lighting mix-up. A few more feet over and it would have come right through the roof!”

AK Herron, 26 Cook/Artist Kill Devil Hills “I was working on the line in a kitchen and looked over at the fry station right as a guy dropped his phone right into the fryer. I saw him stick his hand directly into the grease to grab it out. Has to be one of the most ridiculous things I’ve ever witnessed.”

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Brandon Jenkins, 34 Carpenter Kill Devil Hills

“Working as a tower climber we had a rule you couldn’t climb in wind more than 50mph. One day I was about 500 feet up when a storm popped up and the winds started blowing 60 to 70mph. I was clipped in to the steps and holding on with my hands but the rest of me was blowing around like a flag in a hurricane.”

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Brittany Taylor, 29 Art Sales Manteo “I used to work at a salon. A woman came in for a massage and when the therapist shut the door and clipped on the oil belt, it must’ve triggered something because the woman jumped up and ran out of the room naked. I had to tackle her with a towel halfway down the hall.”

Meagan Kimble, 26 Tattoo Artist Kill Devil Kills “I had a client come in for a tattoo of his dog as Anubis, the Egyptian deity. He showed up in a bathrobe and short shorts, wearing lacey women’s underwear. He tipped me by offering me one of three switchblades from his pocket.” David Rhode, 63 Surfboard Shaper/Laminator Kill Devil Hills “This one’s pretty well known, but we have a ghost at our surfboard factory. It’s Redman, a former shaper. Doors close on their own, equipment suddenly turns on, boards fly off racks on to the floor. I’m so used to it at this point, I’ll take precautions about where I put things if I feel like he’s in a mood.” Interviews and images by Tony Leone milepost 13


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HAPPY FLEXES. graphiccontent HURTFUL CRUNCHES. Breaking down the best and worst of gosurf Raleigh’s latest legislative workout.

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If politics is an exercise in compromise, our General Assembly must love to sweat. When legislators finally finished working out their differences on Sept. 30 at 4am, the session totaled eight months and the budget was three months overdue — making it the longest powwow since 2001 — all capped with a 19-hour marathon meeting. By now, you’ve probably heard the best news for Dare County: that the much feared attempt to redistribute sales tax revenues didn’t happen, saving the county an estimated $9 million; meanwhile, new laws allow the county to partner with the state to pay for dredging Oregon and Hatteras inlets, with an added perk where the county only picks up one-third of the tab. (Saving us nearly $1 million.) But there’s plenty more results to consider. Here’s the most pressing from a local perspective: The Strong, The Weak and The Painful ...

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Southwestern Flair With A The Strong

Coastal Kick

• Say goodbye to sunken boats as new legislation permits counties to remove abandoned vessels from navigable waters within its boundaries. Previously, the only statute included motor vehicles, requiring a cumbersome process that didn’t adapt to watercraft. Thanks to Raleigh, Dare can now give any S.S. Eyesore the old heave-ho. • Both water quality and watermen received tasty news with the enactment of new laws laying out a series of programs to increase opportunities for oyster restoration and cultivation. A single oyster can filter out algae and other pollutants from up to 50 gallons of water daily, making briny bivalves a welcome remedy for improving water quality. And restoring the shellfish stocks could be an income boost for watermen. • And historic preservation tax credits that were cast aside in the previous session are now back in play, which will help move forward restoration projects on vintage structures. That means all of our county’s precious properties — like Manteo’s one-time hotel-turnedcounty administrative building — have a better chance to see the future (and preserve local character for years to come).

Southwestern Grille and Wine Bar

The Weak • What’s the state’s answer to struggling schools? Cheat off your neighbor. Instead of allotting more to state funding, Raleigh gave the State Board of Education authority to consolidate contiguous school systems, which could force wealthier counties to help pay for poor ones. That means, after years of subpar funding, Dare County’s school budget could get held further back to support Hyde and Tyrell. • But wait, it gets better — actually worse — come 2016-2017, the state will be pulling $29 million out of its public education budget to use for vouchers for private schools. In other words, not only might Dare County taxpayers provide education for other counties’ underprivileged kids, we’ll help wealthier parents pay for private schools, too. • Stop complaining. That’s the message behind a new statute that limits citizen input on zoning changes. Instead of public hearings, those who wish to comment will have to submit their positions in writing at least two days prior. The board’s clerk will give those comments to the board. In some cases, only the names and addresses of the persons who wish to comment will be passed along — not the actual comments. The Painful • Here’s a “fix” that will break your wallet. To make up for the revenues lost from the “income tax cut,” Raleigh expanded the sales tax base to apply to service labor on transactions like appliance repair, vehicle maintenance and every other bill where the part usually costs $50 and the hourly work racks up $500. • Burn! Thanks to two new statutes, local governments can no longer enact ordinances that inhibit gas and oil exploration and development in their jurisdictions. (So, if a company wants to hunt for natural gas under Southern Shores, the town can’t stop the exploration.) Double burn: taxpayers could help fund the efforts, as $500,000 has been appropriated for the state to enter into public-private partnerships for “onshore drilling” of test wells. • Hold onto your bulkheads. One of the slimiest bills removes local government authority to mandate design standards and prohibits implementing rules to protect adjoining property owners. Forget pink houses. Worry about brown dirt, as this means developers can keep piling fill higher on empty lots, allowing new construction to flood existing neighbors with storm water — and leaving them to clean up the mess. — Sandy Semans

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Booking Seasonal & Christmas Parties annual thanksgiving Buffet & oyster Feast Voted “Best Chef” 2014!

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AN OUNCE OF milepost PREVENTION

Help Community Care Clinic of Dare keep locals healthy.

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Is there a doctor in the house? Is there a receptionist in the house? Is there a bilingual bookkeeper in the house? If you answered yes to any of these questions, then the Community Care Clinic of Dare needs your help. For the past 10 years, this area non-profit has served as a free, family practitioner for adults who earn too little to afford health insurance — but too much for Medicaid or assistance. “A lot of people can fall through the cracks of our health care system,” says Executive Director, Rick Gray. “We try to fill the gaps.” Wintertime is especially busy as the number of people seeking treatment only grows. Luckily, that’s when residents have the most extra time. Here’s how just a couple hours a week can keep the beach a bit healthier.

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• Full Service Oil Change & Lube • Full Brake Service • Tire Sales & Repair • Stereo & Satellite Radio Installation • Serpentine Belt Replacement • Normal Maintenance Needs • Battery Testing & Replacement

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MILEPOST: How did the clinic come about? RICK GRAY: If you think about it, our leading industries — food service, hospitality, boat building, construction — don’t traditionally provide health insurance. In 2002, a countywide assessment showed that approximately 24 percent of our population had no health insurance. They saw that as an obstacle to the overall health of our county — and our work force — so in 2005 we became a free medical clinic for the uninsured and the financially challenged people in Dare County. Since then we’ve seen over 3000 distinct patients.

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Who all is eligible? As a 501 c3, we’re addressed with our own fundraising, so we can’t just say, “Come one, come all.” We work hard not to duplicate any services offered elsewhere. We don’t do any pediatrics because the state has programs. And we don’t see anyone above 65 because they can get Medicare. But for any adult, 18 to 64, who’s not eligible for other assistance, we’ll provide basic, primary health care, provided they live or work in Dare County. And we have income qualifiers, as well: we’ll see people who make up to 250 percent of the federal poverty level. Most free clinics in North Carolina don’t go that high, but we understand our cost of living is higher. And health insurance is an expensive thing. Many people just cannot afford it. Especially in winter when things get slower. We see the bulk of our patients in the winter months. Because in summer, people are working. And they often overlook their healthcare needs so they can go out and make money.


So do people just walk in? No. We are not an urgent care. We basically act as their family doctor. We register our patients and then see them depending on the needs they have. Approximately two-thirds of our patients have a prior illness that requires case management, such as hypertension, diabetes, COPD or a thyroid condition. And another key service we perform is helping our patients find cheap or free prescriptions. So, if you’re an adult who can’t afford health insurance and doesn’t qualify for Medicaid, this is the place to go for treatment — or just to get a physical or preventative care. Yes. And the best time to go to the doctor is actually when you don’t need one. Go get an annual physical, so if something shows up later, you’re established. The last time the county did a study, 4000 people qualified — but we only have 500 current patients. So we’re trying to reach more people. How can people help you with those patients? Well, we have a wonderful staff of nurses and nurse practitioners, as well as volunteer doctors and nurses, but there’s always room for more medical help. And we’re in dire need of Spanish interpreters — bilingual people with or without a medical background — who can help register patients. Or, who can call them and say, “You have an appointment next Wednesday, please bring these papers.” Ideally, we’re looking for someone who can donate a couple hours on a set schedule. But I’d love to talk to anybody and see what their particular skill levels and time frames are. Because any time someone can donate will go to helping someone else.

YOU AIN’T NEVER TOO BROKE TO GET FIXED Use this income chart to see if you qualify for care at the Clinic of Dare. Household Size

Income (Monthly/ Annual)

1.......................................................................................$2,452/$29,425 2.......................................................................................$3,319/$39,825 3.......................................................................................$4,185/$50,225 4.......................................................................................$5,052/$60,625 5.......................................................................................$5,919/$71,025 6.......................................................................................$6,785/$81,425 7.......................................................................................$7,652/$91,825 8......................................................................................$8,519/$102,225 For each additional person add..............................$867/$10,400 * Incomes are 250% of 2015 Federal Poverty Level. You must make the stated amount or less to qualify. Want to volunteer? Call Rick Gray at 252-261-3041. Need help? The Community Care Clinic of Dare is open 9am-2pm, Mon.-Thurs., at 425 Health Center Drive, Nags Head, NC. They also offer a weekly night clinic in Frisco, at the Dare County Department of Public Health (across from EMS). Phone: 252-475-9329. Can’t donate time? Consider donating some money — all contributions are tax deductible and stay right here in Dare County. For more info go to www.dareclinic.org.

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Thank you To all of our business supporTers

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in our 40Th anniversary year SAGA Construction & Development • PNC Bank • Ace Hardware • Village Realty Bryan Cultural Series • Dowdy & Osborne LLP • Hype Promotions • Koru Village • Mollie A. Fearing & Associates • Outer Banks Visitors Bureau • 108 Budleigh • Resort Realty • Sun Realty • TowneBank • Dare County • The Town of Manteo • Black Pelican • Burgess Lowman & Lay • Carolina Designs • Cucalorus Film Festival • Farmdog Surf School • Glenn Eure’s Ghost Fleet Gallery • Hatteras Realty

• Holiday House • Island Snowball • Johnson Burgess Mizelle & Straub • Lowe’s • Metro Rentals • OBX Dentistry • Ortegaz • Outer Banks Insurance • Outer Beaches Realty • Rose Harrison & Gilreath • Southern Shores Pizza • Surfline • Tanger Outlets • The Burwell A. Evans Charitable Trust • The Coast Magazine • Bayliss Boat Works • Brindley Beach • Cape Hatteras Electric Cooperative • Corolla Pizza • Edward Jones Investments • Frisco Sandwich Company • Greenleaf Gallery • Hidden Outer Banks • Identify Yourself • Joe Lamb Jr. Realty • Kelly’s Restaurant and Tavern • Lucky 12 Tavern • North Carolina Coastal Federation • OBXSurfInfo.com • Outer Banks Community Foundation • Outer Banks Real Estate Company • Outer Vapes • Southern Insurance Agency • Surf Pediatrics • Surfrider Foundation • The Beach Book • The Cameron House Inn • The Willey Agency • Beacon Electrical • Captain Franks • Coastal Provisions • Daniel Pullen Photography • Dolphin Den • Empty Nest Gallery • Full Moon Café • Hilton Garden Inn • JK’s • KDH Recreational Park • Kilmarlic Golf Links • Mary Basnight Photography • Max Radio • NC Aquarium • Ocean Boulevard • Outer Banks Forum • Outer Banks Furniture • Pea Island Gallery • Print Plus • Sea Salt Grille • Stack ‘Em High • The Fresh Market • The Pointe Golf Club • Tortuga’s Lie • Twiddy & Company • Whitecap Linen • Blue Point • Carolina Club • Coastal Studies Institute • Daniels Homeport • Downtown Books • Family Jewels • Garden Deli & Pizzeria • Homes & Land of the Outer Banks • Jolly Roger • Kitty Hawk Kites • Michael Lay Designs • North Carolina Arts Council • Outback Steakhouse • Outer Banks Magazine • Pig Man • Red Drum • Seaside Art Gallery • Studio 12 • The Gift Gallery • The Saltbox Cafe • Trio • Vidant Health • Zen Pops • Bluebird Bakery • Cheap Joe’s • Coastland Times • Decisions, LLC • Duck Donuts • Food Dudes • Gold N Gifts / OBX Bead • Hot Heads • Joy Crist Designs • Local Color • Miss Lizzie’s • Mutual Distributing • Oasis Suites Hotel • Outer Banks Adventures • Outer Banks Sentinel • Pirates and Pixies Toy Store • Rundown Café • Sheer Genius • Surfin’ Spoon • The Home Depot • The Sanderling Resort • Ultra Violet Gems • Waterfront Shops • Albemarle Distributing • Breaux Vineyards • Chili Peppers • College of the Albemarle • Deja New • East Carolina Radio • Foxy Flamingo Boutique • Hairoics • In The Lens Photography • Kees Vacation • Lynn Atkins Custom Framing • Morning View Coffee • OBX Entertainment •

Thank You

Outer Banks Bowling • Outer Banks This Week • Pocosin Arts • Sam & Omie’s • Shoshin Technologies • Sweaterbox Confections • The Hungry Pelican • The Walt Disney Company • Urban Cottage • Yadkin Bank • Brew Thru • Chips Beer and Wine • Copperfish Inc. • Diamonds and Dunes • East Carolina University • Friends of Pooh • Harris Teeter • Indian Town Gallery • Kelloggs • Mann Custom Boats • Mulligans Raw Bar and Grill • OBX Winery • Outer Banks Brewing Station • OuterBanksLiveMusic.com • Poor Richards • Sanctuary Vinyards • Sleeping In, LTD • Sweet T’s • Sysco • The Inn on Pamlico Sound • Theatre of Dare • Washington Nationals • Zillie’s Island Pantry • Beacon Architecture • Café Lachine • Coastal Impressions • Cottage Chic • Distinct Delights • Elite Resorts • Front Porch Café • Hecht Family Foundation • Jewelry by Gail • Kill Devil Grill • Manteo Furniture & Appliance • My Secret Garden • OBX Chevy • Ocean Atlantic Rentals • Outer Banks Chamber of Commerce • Pamlico Jack’s • Premiere Properties • Sandcastles • Spinfinite Designs • The Colington Cafe • The Lost Colony • The Shooting Gallery • Third Avenue Partners • Western Sizzlin • American Pioneer Wine Group

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If we have Inadvertently left your busIness off of our lIst, please contact us at dareartsInfo@gmaIl.com so that we can thank you properly on socIal medIa and our websIte.


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But I was very fortunate. Because not only did my business grow with the Outer Banks, it permitted me to grow with the community and discover things I never knew I could do. I served on the Chamber of Commerce. I was a Manteo commissioner for 12 years. In 1982, I was invited to help start the Outer Banks Community Foundation — today, there are more than 200 non-profit organizations working together. We can’t claim all the credit, but we set the pace. But whenever I got on a new board, I decided very consciously to keep my mouth shut until I knew what the hell I was talking about. For the first couple of months, I made sure I was all ears. And now that’s really come to pass, because as I shrink, my ears get bigger. [laughs]

His presence is our present. Photo: Chris Bickford

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“When people walk in, they walk into my life.”

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That’s aquestionauthority Wrap! endnotes

After 48 years, Manteo’s Christmas Shop is closing its doors. Edward Greene reflects on his finest production — and a lifetime of entrepreneurial spirit.

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I had a 20-year career in theatre in New York City. In 1953, the choreographer for the Lost Colony invited a few dancers to come to the Outer Banks. It was such a fantastic summer that I developed an instant love affair. I only did two seasons, but I knew there was no place else I wanted to be. But I also wasn’t a fisherman or a carpenter, so I needed something to do for a living.

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When you’re in theatre, at some point you need other work. I’d just gotten off the road with Damn Yankees when I saw an ad at the union: “Wanted: people with creative flair to decorate Christmas trees.” They showed me how to set up every artificial tree the company made, then sent me out to decorate Christmas departments in stores all over the country. That’s how I heard about a shop in Cape Cod that

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sold decorations year-round. I thought: “That’s something I can do on the Outer Banks.” And because I was in show business, I decided I was really going to make the store look like Christmas year-round. So, in 1967, I came back for good. And from the very beginning we caught people’s imaginations. I didn’t have a clue about business. But one thing I learned quickly was to hire good people. Before I ever opened, I was discussing my future plans with a friend in New Jersey when his neighbor overheard us. He was an art major in college. And he said, “Gee, Mr. Green, that sounds like something I’d like to do.” That was the first job my partner Richard [Lacerre] ever had — and it’s the only job he’s ever had. He never wavered. He’s been a great part of the success.

I bet I didn’t have $500 worth of ornaments that first summer. I would buy a dozen of something and I would shake. [laughs] But I was always very handson, so I learned as I went. And as years went by, my ability and my confidence grew to where I’d buy $100,000 worth of ornaments from one company. But I knew we needed to offer more, so we gradually added artwork, picture frames, nautical gifts. And we were always trying new ideas to get people over to Roanoke Island. We started the New World Festival of the Arts. We opened the first nursery on the island; we brought plants in from California and Florida. We held the first marathon and the first triathlon. For five years, we did Broadway shows in the parking lot. I didn’t know I was innovating; I was just trying new things.

When I started to slip was when computers took over. A smarter person would’ve gotten on the internet faster. But being a workaholic, I never went up to the office to learn the technology. And how do you learn? You do! So, I’m happy to get out of it now. I’m 90. It’s time. But it’s still bittersweet because people are crying. And a couple times a day, I succumb a little bit, too. Because to a lot of people, their business is just a job; but when people walk in here, they walk into my life. Right now the plan is to close New Year’s Day. Maybe I’ll write a book about all the things we’ve seen and done. I never dreamed we’d be this successful, and it’s very humbling because we have families saying, “You’ve been part of our lives for 40 years!” And, it’s funny, because if I stayed in New York City dancing, I’d be nothing. But in many ways, this business is still a theatre piece. And I still run it like a show. After 48 years, I don’t have to run around saying, “Half hour! Half hour please!” But every person has their own chosen task. Each morning we find our places. Then we go unlock the doors — and the curtain’s up on another performance. milepost 21


questionauthority About 90 percent of the inmates at Dare County Detention Center are locals. That means when they’re released, most will end up right back here, where they can choose to make the same mistakes — or become productive members of our community. According to Captain Allen Moran, much of that decision hinges on how they spend their time behind bars.

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There are better ways to leave your mark. Photo: C. White

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At 28 years old, Moran may be the facility’s youngest Jail Administrator ever, but that hasn’t stopped him from making an impact. In his first year, the Manteo native’s helped reduce costs by over $200,000, using the money to fund several reform programs aimed at keeping inmates from becoming repeat offenders. Already, the facility’s seen a decrease in the amount of fights on the inside. Moran now hopes to see even greater results on the outside.

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LIFE IN (AND OUT OF) LOCKUP milepost Dare Detention Center’s chief explains how our community can create criminals — and how former criminals can return to society.

MILEPOST: What is Dare Detention Center’s function and how does it compare to a state facility?

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You hear a lot about prison overcrowding. Do you have to worry about that? We’re lucky. We don’t. Our facility has 134 milepost

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We sat down with the soft-spoken former sheriff to discuss the role of addiction on crime, how our little local jail differs from big state facilities, and why his real goal is to eventually get fired. — Katrina Leuzinger

beds and we’re currently around 65. We’re now working to relieve the state’s facilities from overcrowding, which makes money for the county. And we’re able to do it without hiring more staff, without adding cost.

huge, and there was one central dealer and a bunch of users. In today’s world pills are huge. It’s whoever has some at that moment and will sell or give some to friends. So a lot more folks get arrested for dealing that may have been dealing at the moment but...

So what’s the typical inmate like? And how does that compare to other places?

But it’s not their career path.

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CAPTAIN ALLEN MORAN: A state facility is all sentenced inmates. The majority of our inmates are pretrial. So they’ve been charged with a crime and the bond’s set, but they haven’t been able to make that bond. So we’re holding them until their court date. We’ll have folks that stay two weeks with us, but it takes about two and a half years to get DWI blood work back. So if someone can’t make their bond on a DWI, they could theoretically sit that long waiting for trial. But we don’t get a high rate of folks that end up going to the state prison. I would say we transfer maybe 10 to 15 to state prison per year.

“I think if one inmate comes out and doesn’t go back down the same path, it’s worth it,” says Moran. “That’s one person not stealing from somebody, not being a drug addict, and actively participating in the community and society itself.”

Our typical inmate is a 25- to 35-year-old, white male. That’s not the norm. I think the typical inmate in other facilities is somewhere between 18 to 25. Why do you think that is? Probably a lack of full-time employment. That’s kind of the age where you’re expected to have a career. They kind of lose vision and drive and go in the opposite direction. I think that addiction is the underlying cause of all the inmates that are in here, one way or another. You know, back in the ’80s and ’90s crack was

Yeah. And then we see folks breaking into homes or stealing from cars. I think I’ve only seen one inmate that stole something that wasn’t doing it to support their habit, whatever it may be — cocaine, heroin, or pills. I would say most of our inmates are — I hate to say innocent — but “innocent in spirit.” They’re not mean. They’re your typical next-door neighbor who made a bad decision and wound up in jail. There seems to be two basic schools of thought: lock prisoners up and throw away the key, or emphasize rehabilitation and reintegrating people

into society. Where do you fall on that? I’m down the middle of the road. If folks aren’t wanting help, and they continue to show that they can’t actively participate in society, then at some point you gotta look at them as being a lost cause. But the majority of our folks are young adults that have a whole future ahead of them. We have a number of programs to try to restart them; to give them some satisfaction and completion. We’re partnering with Social Services and New Horizons to provide a Helping Women Recover class to the female inmates. And Recovery Innovations is a North Carolina program. It counsels men to get beyond the addiction and everyone looking at you as “you’re an addict” or “you’re a criminal,” and how they get back into society. The good part about that is the instructor is an ex-addict, so he really relates one-on-one with the guys. We also partner with the College of the Albemarle to teach an employability class.


It’s geared towards getting a job, keeping a job, and also emphasizes how to deal with having to check the box that says, “I’m a convicted felon.” You kind of go ahead and address the elephant in the room. I know that a lot of places where people tick that box and their resume goes straight in the paper shredder. Right. So it really helps them say, “Yes, I’m a convicted felon, but I’ve changed my life and this is what I have to offer.” They really deal with it by confronting it. Then they get to make a resume with the instructor that they can take with them when they get out. We also did what I call a reentry guide, which has all the resources in Dare County — from Social Services to Recovery Innovations to New Horizons to community foundations — with the names and contact information. And we give that to every inmate as they’re walking out the door. Because we found that a lot of them didn’t know these programs existed. It at least gives them an option instead of walking out, no money in their pocket, trying to think of how they’re gonna make money. And the good thing is, Dare County is full of volunteers and resources once they get out. Like the Dare Literacy Council. They come in once a week and teach math and reading skills. Some of these guys dropped out of school in third grade, so just learning how to read has to be a huge help for when they come out. What are some of your favorite success stories? The best is there was a young lady who was in for narcotics charges. She was probably 18 or 19 and she was kind of a mess. Never any serious trouble, but always was getting written up for something. We talked her into going to the Helping Women Recover class. Then she got out. The week after, she attended the class at New Horizons. Which is our ultimate goal: for them to be so interested that they go to a recovery class when they could easily be going to a movie or hanging out at the beach. But the biggest change that we’ve seen is the lack of aggression and fights between the inmates themselves. In the last year, I think we’ve seen two fights between inmates. Before, it was anywhere between 20 to 30 a year.

That’s a substantial difference. Any less than successful stories?

“Most of our inmates are your typical next-door neighbor who made a bad decision.”

Our volunteer coordinator, Carol Hartman, helps inmates get into recovery programs. She worked with one fella for about six months to get him to a longterm treatment facility. He stayed about three days, got out, and then wound up back here in Dare County and got rearrested on new charges on the fourth day. Full circle.

the fine art of reuse

mp 10.5 beach road (252) 715-2426

What can people in this community do to keep their families and loved ones from becoming this sort of stereotype? The biggest thing is involvement, be it family involvement or — especially for kids— involvement in something with structure, whether it’s sports or band or drama or church or whatever. It gives young people not only something to do, but something to look forward to. And it gives them a group of friends they can connect with. You know, peer pressure can be good just as much as it can be bad. So where do you think the facility’s going? Is it growing? Shrinking? Changing? Hopefully it’s shrinking, as far as population goes. I think as more services become more readily available to young people and older folks in Dare County, you may see less folks in jail. I would say it’s one of the few jobs where your job is to work yourself out of work. And, ultimately, your goal is to shut the doors down because you don’t have anybody to house.

The preceding interview was edited for space, flow and clarity. For the full conversation — including how to volunteer and help support these programs — go to www.outerbanksmilepost.com.

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ODD

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portraits by Chris Bickford

Outer Bankers have always found creative ways to get by — usually by juggling a handful of everyday occupations. Nowadays, carving your own niche can mean more than building houses between bar shifts. It can mean a one-of-a-kind career. Here’s six cool gigs that shape local life — and redefine the phrase: “It’s a living.”

O BS

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W

e know: body piercing is hardly taboo anymore.

Not when every wannabe Beyonce bedazzles her belly button and Goths dangle nipple chains like depressed Christmas trees. Chances are even your grandpa’s rocking a Prince Albert. (Look it up. We dare you.) But in the early ’90s, a mere nose-ring was enough to draw stares on the sleepy Outer Banks. Add a tongue barbell or eyebrow hoop and you were a bonafide freak show. Mark Wiseman had all that plus 15 more piercings — for a total of 17 extra holes in his face alone. “All told I’ve had more than 20 on my body,” says the 46-year-old manager of Vertigo Tattoo and Piercing. “But I did most of them just to see what it felt like, so I knew what I was putting my clients through.” Today, the longtime KDH resident only milepost

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sports his five favorites: two in each ear, and one in the lip. (As far as you know.) But, he’s installed thousands more. At first it was just a hobby. He’d hook-up friends in the basement of “Fort Apache” — the infamous flophouse-funhouse off Third Street where he and his Mex-Econo coworkers lived and raged. But in ’94, he went legit, moving into an assortment of storefronts from Backdoor Surf and Skate to Island Dyes. For years he’d cook by day and pierce by night. Then, Britney Spears and Marilyn Manson got famous. Body modification moved from fringe fetish to fashion craze. And Wiseman started stabbing people fulltime. “This is all I’ve done since 1999,” he says. “People who came to me in the Backdoor days are now bringing me their kids.” Only this time, it’s no beach house basement. It’s a professional studio, set up


HOLIER THAN THOU For Mark Wiseman, piercing body parts is a daily ritual.

tighter than a stripper’s tube top. A glass cabinet stands tall with strictly organized jewelry, tools and needles — all of them autoclaved and hermetically sealed. Glass jars hold gauze, swabs and sterile wipes. Add a full-length mirror and framed certificates from the “Alliance of Tattoo Professionals” and the whole atmosphere feels more like a doctor’s office than some den of iniquity. But then so does the art itself. “Tattoos puncture the skin but it’s more of a mild abrasion,” he explains. “Piercing, you’re putting holes through flesh. You’ve got to know about where the veins are, what angle to use — it’s a lot of anatomy.” And he’s learned every bit of it on the job. At the height of summer Mark might see 15 people per day, charging visitors between $40 to $60 for a standard, steely beach souvenir. Winters, it’s a few clients a week, mostly hardware updates on repeat customers. Over the years he’s taught three apprentices — one of whom is now a big name out west — and punched holes in just

about every body part you can imagine. (Yes, even those parts.) “It’s not as painful as it sounds,” he notes. “Or as glamorous.” He’s also seen all the trends. In the late ‘90s, a guy even hired him to help set up a “suspension” rack, chaining gaff-sized hooks across a steel bar so piercing nuts could push the limits of body modification, hanging from their backs for as long as two hours. But for all the potential craziness, his primary source of revenue remains pretty mundane. A holy trinity of ears, noses and navels. “Eighty percent of my clients are women,” he says. “And 60 percent of those are navels.” On cue, a big, bearded tattoo artist pokes his head in the back — “You got a belly button out here…” Wiseman returns a few minutes later with an

eager young lady and her super-squeamish boyfriend. Mark slips on a set of white latex gloves, lays a square of mint-green paper across a stainless steel pan and begins tearing plastic to reveal a pair of forceps and a two-inch needle. It’s hollow, like a syringe — but even sharper. After swabbing and cleaning the prospective area, Mark whips out a surgical pen, then peers intensely into her midriff. He dots two spots dead center, gets her approval, then politely tells her to lie back on the table and breathe easy. “One… two… three…” Mark thrusts the short spine through the skin, using the leverage of the jewelry to push the needle out. A half-second later, she’s sitting up, begging her beau to take a peek at her shiny barbell. “That’s as long as any piercing should ever take,” he explains, pulling out a pamphlet on post-operative cleanliness. “The bulk of my time is spent talking to people. Telling them

what to expect — and how to care for it.” Watching Wiseman work, it becomes clear that his real art isn’t making holes in people — it’s making sure they’re informed and keeping them comfortable. When a girl wants a nostril ring, he asks which way she parts her hair so her whole look will stay balanced. Worried about your ear crusting up? Use tea tree oil. Most importantly: don’t touch it! (Dirty hands will quickly turn a thing of beauty into a full-blown infection.) For every style he’s got an insight. For every bad idea he’s got a better solution. And for every question he has an answer. Even the dumb ones. Like when a writer asks which piercings hurt the least. “They all hurt,” he laughs. “I mean, you’re putting a hole in someone’s body. But that doesn’t mean it needs to be a painful experience.” — Matt Walker milepost 27


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DOG’S BEST FRIEND Nancy Oates’ super cuts keep clients’ tails wagging.

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D

on’t think of Nancy Oates as a pet groomer.

Or even a fur-stylist — think of her as a specialist. One who runs a mobile office and has clients who come with four legs and lots more hair. She soaps them up, scrubs them down, gives them a makeover, and in the end, they leave a happier pooch — with their tails a-waggin’ and a treat in tow. “For the dogs, I imagine getting groomed is a lot like going to the dentist,” muses Oates, who has been operating Paws N’ Go mobile grooming for the past 12 years. “You never like to go, but it feels so good when you are done.” And that’s the whole goal, she says, talking over the hum of the blow dryer she is using to dry and fluff up the fur of a large Labradoodle named Foster. “People think it’s about a hair cut,” she continues. “But it’s really about their health. And I always wanted to be a vet when I was growing up, so the job is a perfect match.” Instead of vet school, Oates attended the Maryland School of Dog Grooming. While the occupation isn’t a strictly licensed profession, the 14-week training taught her the tricks of the trade. Along with the ins and outs of cutting hair, she learned how to handle animals: how to gently but firmly hold dogs to establish control; where to hold them to avoid getting bitten; and how to use body language to establish authority. In 2003, she graduated and went right from school into a rolling pooch boutique. Made by a company called Wagon Tails, her van is outfitted with a grooming table and shower tub connected to 50-gallon tanks. A generator runs the lights and power. And a furnace cranks up the heat on her turbo blow dryer — along with a fair bit of noise. “That’s probably the scariest part,” she explains. “But you can tell they feel good when they are done. They prance around and bring toys to me.” Foster the Labradoodle doesn’t seem frightened at all. He just goes with the flow and soaks in the occasional pat on the head. He lifts a paw here, tucks his head on cue as warm air is blown in his face and all over his body. As a dedicated customer since February of last year, Foster knows the drill. He also understands when Oates’ motions him to stand, turn when she tells him and lift his paw when asked. The pooches typically learn the routine by the end of their first few appointments, and it’s best if she visits every two-to-four weeks. The most they can go without a good grooming is two months, otherwise they never learn how to behave in the van. Oates points out that most canines are not

aggressive. But that’s not to say she hasn’t been nibbled on once or twice.

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“That’s just their warning. Dogs can’t talk, and if they wanted to break the skin, they would.” In the beginning, she tried to include cats in her repertoire, but found they were too squirmy. Still, she has no shortage of clients. On average, Oates grooms about five dogs per day. Their owners — her customers — can range from teachers and bankers to wealthy retired couples and anywhere in-between. Even with another mobile dog groomer on the beach, there’s plenty of pooches to go around — and it’s hardly a dog-eat-dog atmosphere. In fact, Oates used to trim her competitor’s canine.

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“It’s not really a competitive field,” she says. “People in the dog grooming business are a pretty laidback sect.” Not so for the animals. Just like people, some dogs are easier to deal with than others. There’s the Yorkie that doesn’t want to be groomed and won’t sit still. The hyper Chihuahua who keeps hopping in the tub. Or the elderly patient who’s stuck in his ways.

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“I just have to say ‘Stop.’” Oates never uses the word “no” with a dog because it is so overused. And she follows the same policy when dealing with humans, no matter what they request. One client asked that she play classical music for her mutt, so he got Mozart. Another asked that their dog get a hairdo like Donald Trump. She’s even seen a few “helicopter parents” in her years prepping puppies, but her clients are one of the things she loves most about her job. “Whether I agree or disagree, I do what they tell me. If they want a Mohawk, they get a Mohawk. If they don’t want their dog’s face trimmed, then nothing is done with the head. It may drive me insane, but I’ll do it.” At the end of the day, after keeping up with the chores and maintenance of the van, along with all the scheduling, she said she couldn’t ask for a better job. “I love this office,” she says. “It’s just me and the dog.” Every day’s different. Every dog’s loving. And every tail ends happy. — Michelle Wagner

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BLACK SMOKE GONE

When chimneys need cleaning, Craig Whitley sweeps into action.

“S

oot-uh, sweep!”

In the 19th century, this cry would echo throughout the streets of London, cutting the smog-filled cityscape. However, on this particular morning in Kitty Hawk, the sky stays clear and the air’s oddly quiet, as an unassuming white van pulls in the

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driveway. Its black stencils simply state “The Chimney Sweep,” but there are no shouts as he cracks the doors. No top hat or tailcoat. Craig Whitley grabs only a ladder and brush from the back, then shimmies up the side of the Black Pelican. And as the sun breaches the horizon clear and pure, Whitley basks in the dawn and breathes deep:

“Not a bad way to start the day,” he exhales. “Not bad at all.” Throughout history, the occupation of chimney sweep has been one of controversy and risk. The Industrial Age brought with it urban growth and development — and a whole lot of smoke from factories and homes. More chimneys made agile laborers something of a sought-after commodity,

provided they were willing to bound their way along rooftops. Sometimes, a master sweep would acquire a young apprentice from a “spike” or “workhouse.” They’d make the boys strip down, rub a strong brine into their elbows and knees to build up calluses, then send them wriggling upward through tight corners and deadly conditions to manually sweep the chimneys — from the inside.


But nobody plucked a pint-sized Whitley from some modern day poorhouse. And his apprenticeship didn’t involve caterpillaring his way through flues in the buff. It began with a referral between mutual friends — and a simple question. “In 1992, I met with Lin Ward, the original owner of The Chimney Sweep,” Whitley shares. “He asked if I was afraid of heights and put me right in the mix.” After years of learning by example, the business became Whitley’s in ’05. If things get real busy, he sometimes enlists the help of a friend. But he mostly remains a oneman sweeping team, clearing the noxious and flammable creosote from hollow pipes as far north as Carova and outwards to Moyock and Ocracoke. Wherever he lands, Whitley is always prepared to work indoors or out. High or low. “Most are cleaned from the inside,” he points out, as he offers a hand up onto the shingled restaurant. “But there are those that must be accessed from the roof.” And every one’s different. Some having multiple bends. Some strike at odd angles. (In this case, the metal vent leads to a pizza oven.) And unlike the mental pictures of classic brick chimneys spewing perfect plumes during a cold winter’s night, modern homes — particularly condos and town houses — almost always use metal inserts. “The outer part of the chimney that you see is known as the chase and can be prefabricated,” he explains as he pops a sooty cap. “The inner piece is known as the pipe and at the bottom is the fire box. The cap on top can be made of galvanized metal, but I recommend stainless steel.” Once the cap is removed, then it’s down to brass tacks. But before he can begin sweeping, he must go inside the building and block the fire box, so the ash doesn’t spill into the kitchen or living room. He relies on a custom piece of metal that fits perfectly over the opening and a spool of space-age gray adhesive — you know it as duct tape — then returns to the roof, where he whips out a long pole capped with wires. “Flue brushes can vary,” he notes. “They can be square or rectangle. Most have fiberglass shafts so they can bend. I go with the standard 8-inch, wire brush.” Then comes the fun part as he begins plunging it repeatedly into the hole. The corresponding orchestra of metal-on-metal shreds any sense of morning serenity, a scraping and scratching sonic weapon that makes fingernails on chalkboard sound soothing. “You get used to it,” he insists, before heading indoors to tend to the mass of fine particles that have collected in the crematorium below. The highly flammable

material is brushed together, vacummed up and — voila! All in a day’s work right?

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Wrong. According to Whitley, the size of the house can dictate how the day is going to unfold. And how brave and balanced he must be. In this case, the roof was pretty flat, and the chimney low. But for others he’ll find himself sticking a ladder at steep angles, then standing a good two stories higher. And if daring heights weren’t enough, Mother Nature is fairly adept at serving up a mean curve ball here and there. “The closer to the peak of the roof, the taller the chimney must be,” he explains. “The standard size is 14 feet, but there have been situations where I must extend a 32-foot ladder. But if it’s blowing more then 15mph I won’t go up. You really have to be cautious in those situations.” After 23 years in the business, he’s managed to avoid any pitfalls. And he counts maybe ten chimneys total he wasn’t able to reach. But there’s been other challenges. Like the time a grandma called complaining of a strange smell creeping into her living room. A stench so formidable, it had Whitley stumped. “No matter how hard we tried we just couldn’t move whatever was causing the blockage,” he recalls. “After a lot of work from the roof and inside, we ended up retrieving 28 dead birds.”

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It happens. Thankfully, he’s yet to retrieve any bad Santas. And most critters he meets come out on their own. Or, at worst, with a little encouragement. “Once I saved a wood duck,” Whitley remarks with a note of experience in his voice. “It had been trapped for five days.” As with many occupations on our narrow spit, Whitley’s work is seasonal. In summer, he stays busy cleaning pools before trading skimmers for brushes for the impending winter. And as the only sweep between here and Elizabeth City, he remains the go-to guy for home inspections and fire-stoked businesses, who send him home adorned with a range of shrapnel and smells — from locally roasted coffee leftovers to the remnants of last week’s pizza crusts. In fact, the one place we guarantee you won’t see him is hovering over his own abode. “The last thing I want is a chimney,” he laughs. Nope. At the end of the day he’s happy to kick his feet up, firmly planted with a cold beer — and a warm fire pit. — Fran Marler milepost 33


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re you ready for some foul beer?!

An ice-cold Miller Lite that is flat and flavorless but somehow flows out sudsy and sour? Perhaps an extra-hoppy IPA, brewed to the highest standard, perfectly poured — priced at top dollar — but still tastes piss poor? Of course not. But it happens all the time — at least when you’re drinking drafts. It’s not the brewery’s fault. That keg arrived from the factory perfectly chill. And it’s not the bartender’s either — he just pulls the handle. It’s the technology in between that does all the real damage. From the plastic tubing that carries the fluid to the faucet it spills from. All that surface area can collect countless microscopic beasties: yeast and mold can build up on the spigots; calcium deposits that turn into “beer stone” and collect on the sides; and plain old bacteria. Left to their own insidious ways, they’ll team up to turn your favorite draft pick into a fumbling foamball.

photo: John Livingston

“Beer is living,” explains 48-year-old Jim Ivory, as he climbs over a cooler of dented, silver cylinders. “There’s yeast. There’s microbes. There’s minerals. Air and humidity. Over time, it all comes together to breed the funk.”

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And killing that funk is what keeps Jim alive. Since 2007, he’s run Big Jim’s Beer Line Cleaning Service. Seven days a week he commits mass-genocide on millions of microbes like an evil mastermind — or if you’re a beer lover — a modern-day superhero. In fact, by the time most of us are finishing our morning coffee, Ivory’s already chemically cleansed a spaghetti tangle of plastic tubes and polished the chrome on every tap-handle, so when you get to that lunch meeting, happy hour or football game, your favorite fermented beverage flows sweet and pure like it’s fresh from the brewery — instead of sponged off the floor of last week’s frat party. “Nobody likes that taste,” laughs the Radford grad. “I know. I did a few keg stands in my day.” It was during those same suds-soaked years, a quarter century ago, that Ivory first came to the beach. Like most college kids, he started out working summers, then came back for good. When not serving food or clearing tables at some of our most iconic watering holes, he kept cement ponds from going green, never realizing he was actively training for a highly specialized career, handling all the accounts for Tryon Distributing, plus several more major contracts from Weeping Radish to Lost Colony Brewery. “Bob Shook had the business for five years before me,” says Jim. “One day he called and said, ‘You want the job?’ I knew all

the restaurants. I knew how to organize a route and mix chemicals. It seemed like the perfect opportunity.” It was also perfect timing. America’s craft beer renaissance was already flooding local bars with beer-snobs looking for imaginative creations from far-flung locales, pushing bartenders to cram their coolers with cases of crazy inventory. When North Carolina made glass recycling mandatory for restaurants in 2008, it added an extra expense to every bottle. With draft systems requiring less space, greater flexibility — and as much as 90 percent profit on every pint — bars swapped out reach-in fridges filled with bottles for walk-ins stacked with kegs, then ran tap systems with 10, 12, even 30 handles. “In ten years, the people serving draft beer has to have quadrupled,” says Tryon’s Greg Dawson, who handles craft labels like San Diego’s Stone and Kinston, NC’s Mother Earth. “It seems like I’m always calling Jim and saying, ‘Here’s more work.’ But it’s hard work: these breweries are real serious about quality because they know it’s their name on the line.” How serious? Clients demand service every two weeks. Labels like New Belgium require Jim to report in after every stop. (They even have mystery tasters who cruise the nation making sure nobody’s cheating.) Meanwhile, restaurants want Jim in-and-out before customers can belly up to the bar. With 1000 lines to clean from Corolla Light to Hatteras Village, Jim hustles constantly to keep business flowing. Each day by 7am, he’s sneaking around some local tavern, ready to wage war on flavor-killing gremlins with an arsenal of spill buckets, dish rags, a key-ring of brushes, and two silver canisters that look eerily like Stars Wars droids. These are his real secret weapons. Crowned with four tap fixtures that connect to the lines, he’ll flush them with a mix of water and chemicals. Most times it’s a standard alkaline solution made of sodium hydroxide. But today he’s breaking down mineral deposits with a phosphoric acid that looks like transmission fluid. In large doses, either one is deadlier than Jim Jones’ Kool-Aid. And even a little residue can leave a bad after-taste, which is why he always runs just enough solution to clean the line. No more. No less. “It pays to be a little OCD when you’re working with chemicals,” he grins, silently ticking off a set number of seconds. While the microscopic armies do battle, he manually scrubs the taps and “sankeys” — that’s the part you stick the tap in — before dashing to the bar to remove and clean all the faucets. Over the next 30 minutes to an hour, he’ll repeat the process, racing


tap man

When it comes to keeping beer tasty, Jim Ivory’s the number one draft pick. from cooler to bar, dodging prep cooks and bartenders, scraping and wiping, until he’s cleaned all his clients. The last thing he does is open up every tap to make sure the colors run true, signs-off on a time sheet to show he was there. Then he hits the next spot to do it all over again. “It’s a bit repetitive,” he admits. “But I’ve gotten to know people all over the beach. And I’ve got it down to a science. After eight

years, I can literally remove a faucet, clean it and put it back on blindfolded.” What’s more interesting is what he sees. From the evolution of marketing gimmicks. (“Some of the tap handles get a little nuts, but they sure make my job easier.”) To the next flavor craze. (“IPAs are still hot, but the real beer geeks are going for sours and farmhouse ales.”) To the ever disappearing Outer Banks off-season.

“No one really shuts down for winter anymore,” he notes. “And even if one place does, his neighbor stays open. I can sneak away for the holidays, but I haven’t gone on a real vacation in seven years.” And it’s only getting busier. Ivory already has two accounts with wine on draft. And one restaurant keeps a line specifically devoted to cocktails made with Kill Devil Rum — both of which legally require regular visits.

Each new beer label, booze-style or bar opening means more untapped potential for another pourable petri dish. And that adds up to more job security for Jim, based on an economic philosophy every brewmaster, beer snob and booze hound can agree with. “When you’re charging seven bucks for a beer,” he quips, “it sure better taste good.” — Matt Walker milepost 35


INTO THE BLUE

Saiward Turnbaugh spends quiet hours keeping sea creatures healthy. milepost

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S

aiward Turnbaugh dresses for work the same way each day.

In a simple t-shirt and khaki shorts, rubber fisherman’s boots almost to her knees, and a pair of latex gloves. Hair pulled back, sleeves rolled up, she shows up ready for whatever weird orders might come over the walkie clipped to her hip. Putting a shark on a diet? No problem. Enchanting a depressed seahorse? She’s on it. It’s just another shift as a Natural Science Curator at the North Carolina Aquarium on Roanoke Island. And you thought keeping a goldfish alive was hard. “I love it all,” says the 33-year-old Vermont native, referring to herself as a waitress, a plumber, a chemist and a doctor all in one. “Whatever emergency comes our way, I am definitely never bored.” Better known as an Aquarist, she and her colleagues handle myriad tasks to keep the aquarium swimming, from testing water to creating diet plans to conducting research. Turnbaugh mainly works with marine fish, most notably the piscine predators that attract hundreds of thousands of visitors each year to the Graveyard of the Atlantic exhibit. Behind a massive wall of glass lays a replica of the USS Monitor and the largest collection of sharks in the state. But perhaps more impressive than the 285,000-gallon tank is what looms above it. On a lofted second level of the aquarium, out of sight of visitors, is a massive room where a concrete deck surrounds the open top of the tank. The ceiling is high and arched like a cathedral; its polished wood reflects the blue glow from the tank below. It is a place of peace, an aquatic sanctuary. “I never know how crowded this place is,” she says. “Even in summer. I can’t see the people, and they can’t see me.” But the fish can. As she wheels over a cart carrying pre-portioned tubs of fish, a mere shadow can get the surface rippling. Fastening a single mackerel to the end of a pole, she dips it in the water and as a shark swims by, she delivers the food into its jaws. She talks to them as they pass and knows them by name. A Drum named Jamal, follows her around the tank and she gives him a little nibble each time he surfaces. “He’s my favorite,” she says. “He’s got a lot of personality.” The fish eat at a different time than the sharks. The Sandbar Sharks eat on a different side of the tank than the Sand Tiger sharks and the Nurse shark. It is a mesmerizing dance that comes together where the below and the above meet, and Turnbaugh orchestrates it all. “You have to respect the animals because they’re wild and you’re in their world,” she

says, staring down into the tank. “But that doesn’t mean you have to be afraid of them.” As much time as Turnbaugh spends above the tank, she also spends in it. She makes frequent dives to address any needs the creatures may have and to clean. Mostly to clean. “I like to refer to myself as a specialized janitor,” she laughs. “We are constantly dealing with poop.”

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She may be a janitor, but a highly qualified one. Turnbaugh holds a degree in Natural Resources with a concentration in Wildlife Biology from the University of Vermont. Growing up in the Green Mountain State, she had her sights set on a career as a marine biologist from an early age. “I had never even seen the ocean when I decided that my future job would be based around it,” she says. “I believe that we have certain passions or purposes that we are born with; it’s whether we choose to go after them that they come alive.” Still, like many of us, Turnbaugh was at a loss over what to do after graduation. She even briefly considered becoming a flight attendant while sending her resume to facilities across the nation. Luckily, Driftwood, an environmental education outpost on Saint Simons Island, Georgia, reeled her in. Next, she spent three years at the Catalina Island Marine Institute (CIMI) in California, diving with sharks, working in marine labs and collecting specimens. In 2009, she came to the Outer Banks to assume those tasks and more — from maintaining the tank at Jennette’s Pier to lifting seahorses’ spirits back on Roanoke Island.

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“My whole day is basically centered around keeping these seahorses happy,” she says, smirking at a small exhibit on the aquarium’s main floor. “They’re very sensitive.” The constant attention’s paid off. She has trained a dozen or so to eat out of a bowl, introduced new plants and props to keep them entertained, and learned that a bobby pin can help repair a prolapsed pouch. Next she’ll move to the Pipefish, which prefer to be target fed — this means delivering food to 40 individual mouths with a tiny dropper. All day, she’ll move between displays, catering to every waterborne species’ oddest whim, all so thousands of land-lubbers like her former self can experience a world they may never see otherwise. “Our work allows other people to connect with these animals,” she says. “And when that happens, people are driven to want to protect the natural world, the environment and the animal kingdom around them.” Nothing weird about that.

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— Hannah Bunn milepost 37


FLASH BACK

For Luis Garcia, the Outer Banks’ oldest profession is still the best on the beach.

L

ightning crashed.

Thunder rumbled. And Luis Garcia? He trembled. Not from the thunderstorm pounding Corolla but from work jitters stressing his nerves. Fresh into town — second night on the job as Currituck Beach Lighthouse’s keeper — and the brick beacon had suddenly gone dark. Racing across the bolt-strobed courtyard, he burst through the tower’s doors, stumbling and milepost

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sweating up all 220 steps. Breathless, legs burning, he pulled open the circuit breaker, relieved to discover it was just a blown fuse — only to come to grips with a more daunting discovery. “I’d left my screwdriver all the way down there,” laughs the 44-year-old Mexico native, pointing 150 feet to the ground below. “So, I had to go back and get it. But that’s okay. Just part of the job.”

Always has been. One hundred years ago, the original keepers made that trip at least twice a day, lugging gallons of mineral oil up to keep the lantern burning and trim the wicks. Today, Dominion Power supplies the energy. And the U.S. Coast Guard is responsible for all official functions involving the First Order Fresnel lens, including keeping the lamp level and — in the rare event of an extended outage — notifying all mariners.

But Garcia and his staff handle everything else, from pulling trash off the grounds to securing the tower against the elements to polishing every inch of glass. “To me, Luis is most like the modern day version of the traditional lighthouse keeper,” says Cyndy Holda of the National Park Service’s Outer Banks Group. “We have a staff of various people who work at our three lighthouses. But Luis’ whole focus is on that beacon. He lives within walking


If anything, it’s the lighthouse’s job that’s changed. Completed in 1875, for the first 100 years its sole purpose was to serve as a navigational aid for passing ships. In fact, after becoming automated in 1939, the government did little more than keep the thing blinking. By the 1970s, the building was in such disrepair it had no doors or windows. Finally, in 1980, a non-profit called Outer Banks Conservationists, Inc. raised the money to restore the tower and associated buildings. In 1990, they opened the grounds to the public, so today Currituck Light doesn’t just remind offshore boat captains where they’re headed — it shows the whole Outer Banks where we’ve been. “People these days, they walk around, lost in their cell phones,” Garcia says, gesturing to a milling crowd filled with screen-tapping teenagers. “Our culture has lost its sense of history. But history is right here!”

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After a decade of fixing things big and small, top to bottom, Garcia knows more about the building and its surroundings than just about anyone. He can recount subtle differences in sea color based on how the sand shifts between seasons. Point out where raccoons like to hole up in wintertime. Discuss the physics of sunlight as it splinters through glass — and the original solution for stopping sunburn.

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That’s actually one of Garcia’s favorite tasks. Every November, he steps into his harness and hangs off the side to crown the top with colorful bulbs for Corolla’s holiday celebration — something his predecessors literally could never have imagined. But Garcia’s no stranger to heights or hard hats.

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“The original keepers didn’t have to stop what they were doing to clean puke off the steps,” he laughs. “Or swing off the side to hang Christmas lights.”

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One moment he’s crouched 70 feet in the air, caulking a window. The next he’s back on terra firma, picking up dog poop. At the end of each season he scrapes and repaints the railings — and fixes any weak points — so he’s ready for surprise safety inspections. In some ways it’s easier. (Garcia doesn’t have to endure the same mega-isolation and cold of an 1880s winter.) And in some ways it’s harder.

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It still is. And just like “back in the day,” Garcia spends countless hours on daily upkeep and combating Mother Nature’s long-term corrosive effects. Except, with roughly 100,000 visitors each year, he also takes on a whole new set of duties to keep people safe and happy.

“It’s like any house,” he explains. “There’s always something that needs to be fixed, but there’s always something more important to do first. So each day you walk by and say, ‘I’m going to get you.’ Then, one day, you stand up and knock it out.”

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“Back in the day, they had no time to make everything perfect,” he insists. “It was a huge, functional candle. It was a place of work.”

Walking up the steps, he stops to eavesdrop on families and answer any questions or correct errant comments. When he hears a couple scream at their friends on the ground, he can’t help but echo his own happy “Haloooo!” And each time he takes in the view, a huge grin sets his face beaming — at least until his gaze falls on a potential leak lurking in a high corner. Then he grimaces. Nods. And makes a mental note.

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Garcia’s been helping preserve that history since 2005. But he doesn’t just secure the structure, he helps set the mood. Landscaping means letting the grass and pine straw battle over who gains the most ground. A vine-wrapped post is a decorative element. A weed between bricks is no eyesore — it’s a point of pride. He paints. He protects. He fixes. But he leaves just the right flaws.

Growing up in Veracruz, Mexico, Garcia’s father introduced him to working on oil rigs. As a safety liaison for a Chapel Hill contractor, his whole job required hanging off buildings, testing each bolt to make sure they were tight — and communicating with the people around him. But maintaining the lighthouse offers a wider variety of different tasks — and a single focus — allowing him to build an infinitely more personal relationship with his workplace and the people who visit.

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“It takes two of us eight hours to clean the lens,” he says as he shows off the private room that houses the lantern. “The first time, I came home with tiny little dots all over my arms. That’s how I discovered they used to hang curtains to block the sun — that’s what those hooks are for.”

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Garcia points to the iron rings circling the ceiling and signals to follow. Popping a pin, he pushes a hidden door to step outside. On this side of the glass, the wind whirls from every side, scrubbing the air quiet. The people disappear. The trees and homes blend together. All that’s left is a huge, circular horizon and a long stretch of coast running north to south, cutting the water like the hands of a clock stopped for all time. “When you’re up here by yourself, you can look back on your life — or you can look forward,” he beams, sharing the same secret perk that’s made keepers smile for 140 years. “You are truly on top of the world.” — Matt Walker

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In high school I was small. I weighed 86 pounds. I was a new kid and we were poor, and I was getting bullied a lot. But I was big into Arnold Schwarzenegger and Bruce Lee. My mom got me karate lessons, a K-Mart weight set and an Arnold book. I gained 20 pounds of muscle. My junior year I wrestled 103 and I was benching 200. I was a beast. And all those guys who bullied me, I chased ’em all down. [laughs] So did that help?

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DAVID DERBY: Most people don’t know this, but in the ’80s and ’90s, they did about five Toughman contests on the Outer Banks. And one guy won them all — Rocky Williams. He’s a local legend. Super tough guy. In 1998, we had a fight at the Carolinian and that was the first Mixed Martial Arts fight on the Outer Banks. And I actually beat him. But I didn’t get into this fighting thing to become a champion or make money. I got into it to defend myself physically. What happened?

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MILEPOST: What was the Outer Banks fighting scene like when you started?

Twenty years ago, catching a Mixed Martial Arts fight on the Outer Banks meant ordering pay-per-view. Last fall, you could go watch grown men grapple live behind Pigman’s. In that time, David “Do or Die” Derby’s seen the sport develop from inside and outside the cage — and learned every discipline along the way. He’s pinned college competitors to the mat for a state title. Knocked out amateur boxers for a Golden Gloves championship. And made dozens of dudes tap out for two North American Grappling Association world championship belts and 18 MMA professional victories. But while those killer instincts kept Derby beating competitors, outside the ring he was hurting himself thanks to a hair-trigger temper and some painful history. “I got bullied a lot in high school,” says the 43-year-old KDH trainer, who runs Dirty South Boxing Club. “And if you beat a dog long enough, he’s gonna learn two things: he’s either gonna go in the corner and pee himself. Or he’s going to learn to bite. I became the type of dog that would bite.” After a series of bad brushes with the law, Derby came to realize that fighting doesn’t solve problems. Now, he hopes to use his self-defense credentials to organize bouts that help local causes, coach upcoming talent and teach kids that the best way to take down a bully is to beef up your confidence. We sat down with Derby to discuss the evolution of Outer Banks pugilism — and his own personal progress. — B. Lowe DeBelt

Not really. It helped me in some ways. I got stronger. It gave me confidence and a goal and structure. But also, I got angry. In 1987 I won my first wrestling tournament and my first karate trophy, but by senior year I got kicked off the team before I could go to state. I blew a college scholarship. I started living wild and rough. Were you ever arrested? Thirty or 40 times. When I was 18 I went to prison for stealing with some guys. That’s when I started working on how to get out of the vicious cycle. But it was hard. It took me years because I still had that chip on my shoulder. I remember I used to keep track of the noses I broke — in the cage and on the street. Somebody would look at me wrong, and I’d snap. Violence became my answer. It was possessive. Compulsive. Obsessive. What finally happened to change that? In 2002, a guy picked a fight and I knocked his eye out of the socket. The judge made me take anger management classes. And the therapist diagnosed me with Post Traumatic


Stress Disorder. That’s what people get from going to war, and it was all because of growing up getting picked on every single day. I didn’t realize it, but I’d become the bully. But that doctor’s diagnosis helped me turn it around. So now I try to reach out to other young people and help them deal with that hopelessness and despair. Who feel the way I felt. Because fighting’s not the answer. So you’re trying to get people to take the good elements of what you learned — the fitness, the strength, the technique, the self-confidence — and lose the dark side… The anger. The animosity. The revenge. I still teach kids to defend themselves, but I really teach them self-confidence. If someone says, “You suck,” you say, “That’s your opinion.” If they say, “You’re fat,” you say ”That’s more of me to love.” Even if a kid wants to lose weight, it’s got to be for them, not for somebody else. But I think it’s better today. I’m sure kids get picked on, but I’ve raised mine to know you don’t judge someone by the color of their skin or clothes they wear or their sexual orientation. And I talk to bullies, too. I tell them, “If someone’s smaller or weaker and you’re beating them up — what does that make you?” At the Fight for Food charity event at Pigman’s last fall, my opponent was 6’8” and 300 pounds. I’m 5’8” and 155 pounds. Even if I lose, that’s more impressive than pounding on someone smaller than me. How did that event come about? That was their idea. We’ve done coleslaw wrestling during bike week for four years, and it’s raised a ton of money for breast cancer. So they said, “What if we do something more serious for the food pantry?” And it went great. A lot of people came out. And next year, I think we’ll raise some serious money. But I want to start throwing bigger fights because I want to see more champions come from the Outer Banks. I mean, it sounds cocky, but it’s lonely being the best. [laughs] What’s the talent pool like now compared to the old days? Now it’s unbelievable. I mean, locally, we’ve got two other MMA pros: Omar Santiago, who runs Outer Banks Fight Club, and a

fighter he trains, Ardit Haysa. Mike Keller is the greatest fighter in Elizabeth City. He’s the only other guy with a world NAGA belt. William Bailey moved to Virginia but he’s the only other Golden Gloves champion. Wayne Hunter’s from Manteo. He’s in the Air Force now, but he had 20 MMA fights in two years and won ten by knockout. We also have a bunch of younger fighters — Rick Bateman, Shane Brinn, Kane Heller. My son Jeremiah’s only 15, but he’s been wrestling since four and boxing since six. But I’d like to see more fighters. I actually think everyone should try boxing or wrestling at least one time. You learn a lot about yourself. You learn to overcome your fear. And you learn over time what you can take. And I guarantee you can take a lot more than you think.

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So are you still competing? And does that make it harder to fight because you have this positive stuff in the back of your head? They do NAGA bouts in Charlotte. By the end of the year, I’m hoping to win my fourteenth belt. But it’s funny, a few bouts ago, the referee said, “It’s about time for you to let this stuff go.” I said, “What’re you talking about? I won! I’m in phenomenal shape!” And he said, “You were on top of the guy, and three times you asked him if he was okay.” [laughs]

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Will you stop fighting? Well, my therapist said, “I hope you never stop.” He’s worried I’ll start fighting again outside the ring. But the discipline in the sport is what helped me overcome my personal demons. What I’ve learned is, you can’t make me mad. You can slap me in the face, but I can still choose not to react. Once you learn to master your emotions, you can do anything.

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soundcheck getactive Dropping temperatures. Harsh wind. Go ahead and throw in some freezing rain and occasional snow for slush and giggles. As a gardener, idle hands can make wintertime even more depressing. By February, blistered fingertips and aching calves sound like a pleasure-fest when you compare it to the alternative: staring longingly through ice-capped windows, willing every shoot, every blade to break the surface and bring spring’s embrace along with them.

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But instead of hunkering down in a tomb of hibernation, try bringing the outside indoors. Throw open your home to a new world of gardening, where leafy greens cascade down every cabinet whilst the heady aroma of fresh herbs hangs low in the cozy confines of your kitchen window.

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“I’ve always wanted a way to garden inside so that I could have fresh herbs, lettuces and veggies at my fingertips,” shares consultant, yogi and video editor, Amanda Lotas. “I knew it was possible. I just didn’t know how to go about getting started.”

Amanda Lotas’ winter crop is just getting started. Photo: C. White

“I have a vision of being closer to the earth,” she says. “I would love to be able to forage. But, at the very least, I want to have control over my food and know where it’s coming from.” For those with a busy lifestyle and a beginner green thumb, planning and organizing a garden for the first time can be a daunting task. Bring it indoors, and the game changes even further. The options are endless. Some folks prefer the simplicity of an herb box in a sunny southfacing room. Others go for mobile carts or highly advanced hydroponic systems. And then there’s “aeroponics,” which eliminates soil altogether by hanging the plants and watering them with mist or running water. Edible airplants? Kinda. Except, it’s all indoors. (In fact, the technology is a favorite tack among cloning researchers and NASA scientists.) For those of us who aren’t botanists or astronauts this may be alien territory, but for Lotas the fit is perfect.

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As a child in Brooklyn, New York, gardens and yard work were as rare as graffiti on the Outer Banks. In fact, it wasn’t until her 30s that Lotas even began learning about the art of making things grow. Her drive?

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“I chose a vertical tower garden because it’s super low maintenance and suits my hectic schedule,” says Lotas. “I’ve only been using it for six months, and the comparison of supermarket produce versus fresh grown is not even close.”

The design is what you’d expect: compact and self-sufficient. Picture a five-foot standing tube, with holes cut in the sides holding tiny flowerpots. The plants live in these containers, dangling their roots inward. Meanwhile, the base doubles as a storage tank that pumps a solution of water and minerals to the top, then lets the solution cascade down the inside and over the exposed root systems. Due to a higher concentration of oxygen and nutrients, the plants grow faster and, in turn, may be harvested more often. Plus, grow lights attached to the support cage ensure the plants get the 15 hours or more of rays they need to stay healthy. (Double bonus: the tower can be moved outside during the warmer months.) All the gardener needs to do is worry about keeping the tank solution replenished — and resupplying the greenery. “For lettuces, once they have produced about three times, they will need to be replaced with new seedlings,” Lotas shares. “But seeds can be purchased from a variety of sites online and germinated very easily at home in simple boxes.” Once you are fully self-sufficient, seeds can be harvested from the tower


directly. But it’s not completely foolproof. Gardeners face a variety of obstacles, even when it’s indoors; adequate light is tricky when you consider plants need 12 to 16 hours of light per day. And then there are the creepy crawlers, which somehow work their way into the most sterile of environments — especially mites, thrips and aphids, which thrive in moist, humid conditions. Lotas uses a homemade spray of eggs and fresh garlic to combat the pests. (A castille soap bath, neem oil or rubbing alcohol all work, as well.) And despite the challenges, she says the benefits far outweigh the bugs. “The cost of gardening indoors is low,” Lotas notes, showing off some of her fragrant basil. “And it’s a great activity to share with friends and family, is good for your air, and ensures you have fresh produce in winter.”

Some prefer the simplicity of an herb box... Others eliminate soil altogether.

In fact, she’s even begun selling her Tower Gardens as a side-gig. But be careful: the more you learn, the more you’ll want to grow. With time and experience, you’ll be prone to pushing beyond the realm of living rooms and kitchens, and creating a whole separate space. Ask Becky Harrison, a Biologist and Pollinator Coordinator for the NC Fish and Wildlife Service. She built a separate structure devoted to offseason horticulture.

“We built our greenhouse in 2014,” says the Nags Head nature-lover. “It’s all repurposed. The outside is cedar, the windows are reinforced and screened. The lexan roof allows solar radiation to come through during the warmer months without cooking everything. The floor is recycled glass from Manteo.”

With about 90 square feet to fill, Harrison can meet winter head-on with a place to plant, propagate and germinate. In fact, on the coldest days, you’ll still find her in her backyard farming, doing everything from collecting seeds to giving lemon trees a head start. Still, while the structure resembles a trendy micro-house you would want to live in, Harrison warns the process hasn’t been completely easy. After last year’s extremely harsh winter killed some tropical varietals, she added insulation to help keep the air at an ideal 70 degrees. And she’ll occasionally bring in a space heater to ensure the temp stays above fifty. But the extra room allows her a special place to commune with nature, provide fresh ways to keep winter dishes savory — and get a jump on spring planting. “I am able to grow all the things I love to cook with: rosemary, basil, lemongrass, thyme, parsley and dill,” she says. “It’s also a great way to start items such as lettuces, onions and garlic that can later be transplanted in your yard.” Clearly, Harrison’s no beginner. (You might say her green thumb has a black belt.) But her winter garden still grew from the same place of curiosity. “I wanted to see how plants change with the seasons,” she says, “to learn about my tiny, micro-habitat of a yard and its blooming period.” And, like any gardener, she loves to share the fruits of labor with others. Among her strongest suggestions: invest in native species to ensure less maintenance. Garden with the seasons for bigger yields and to complement what grocery stores are actively selling. When in doubt, contact the Dare County Center of the NC Cooperative Extension for input. Be patient. And never be scared. “Be smart and use whatever space you have,” Harrison says, smiling. “And remember: not everything will work as you plan.” But then every mistake is another learning opportunity. Maybe even a tasty one. — Fran Marler milepost 43


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CULTURAL FABRIC soundcheck The Outer Banks Fiber Guild weaves together passions and people.

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Whorls and warp. Weft and spindles. Tatting, twisting and twining. At first glance, the words look like text message typos — or lost excerpts from Lewis Carroll’s “Jabberwocky.” But they’re actually quite specific terms with pinpoint meanings. And they’re as common as mosquitoes in Wanchese when the Outer Banks Fiber Guild holds their monthly meeting.

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For 15 years, this crew of crafty artists has gathered to exchange tips on creating fashionable fabrics, from needlepoint sweaters to wool hats to dish towels. For the uninitiated, sitting in with the guild is like being dropped into a foreign country without a translation guide. But listen closely, you’re sure to hear some familiar phrases, clues that define each person’s passion — and stitch together into a revealing pattern of what makes them unique.

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But that still doesn’t touch the breadth of the guild members’ collective interests. Or the depth of the pastime’s cultural history. Fibers were first used to make clothing thousands of years ago when our ancestors matted, wetted and condensed fibers, replacing smelly old animal skins with what we call “felt.” (In fact, some nomadic Asian tribes still make felt for clothing and other necessities, such as rugs and yurts.) With agriculture and technology came different textiles and more refined methods — but sewing and weaving was always considered “women’s work,” well into the Industrial Age. Being able to produce quality needlework may have been considered genteel, but working with fiber wasn’t considered an art or even of much true value — until the 1970s, when it was revived by the feminist movement. Forty years later, fiber crafting is still dominated by women, but the skill is highly respected, as craft shows and closets overflow with beautiful, homemade items that are as much about fulfilling a passion as covering your body.

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“We have all kinds — weavers, embroiderers, crocheters, knitters,” says Cole Fagersten, the president of the guild. “We all share what we know and learn new things.”

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Love’s labor loomed. Weavers puts their whole hearts — and many hours — into every piece. Fabric by Linda Ihle

combining longitudinal “warp” of one style with lateral “welt” of another to build unique blends. Or compress and mat fibers to make multi-colored felts. Some even “spin” raw cotton and wool into specific types of yarn. “I like spinning my own yarn because I can make it the way I want,” says Heather Demarest of Wanchese. “Either very fine or chunky — or do other interesting things.” Some spinners sell the yarn they create, but Heather uses hers for projects that may involve knitting, crocheting or some other fiber craft. Occasionally, just trying something different brings its own twists and turns — like learning to grow cotton. “I chose four colors and ordered one plant of each,” Demarest says. “I wanted to try because commercial cotton is one of the most heavily pesticided crops.”

“I’m a surface designer,” says Cole. “I do silk painting and also a little weaving.”

They weave, knit or crochet… Make jewelry and wallhangings, or dabble in crewel.

She soon discovered why. North Carolina has eradicated the boll weevils in the state. As a result, even getting four plants required a waiver from the NC Department of Agriculture. Later, inspectors visited her yard to make sure the plants were bug-free — then came back to install a boll weevil trap just in case. And then? “After picking the cotton, I have to destroy the plants.”

Fagersten draws shapes on the silk with a repellant solution called “resist,” then adds dyes to create a design. (To picture it, imagine stained glass; the resist is what keeps the colors from running together; it’s the lead that separates the panes.) She then turns the silk into wraps and scarves — or, as she calls it, “yardage.”

Clearly, this art is as much about commitment as creativity. But, it’s such dedication to new ideas and hard work that keeps the guild going. For meetings, 20 to 25 members converge on Manteo from as far away as Chesapeake, Va., Hertford and Elizabeth City. Each one brings their own expertise to share with the others and spark new ideas. They weave, knit or crochet whimsical animals. Make jewelry and wall-hangings, or dabble in crewel or needlepoint. And then, of course, there is patchwork and quilting, and, well, the list goes on and on, limited only by the fiber they choose and the crafters’ own imaginations.

But while Fagersten pours her imagination onto the fabric, others members literally weave their creativity into the entire process. They’ll sit at a loom for hours,

And, of course, each learns new languages and words to weave through their next endeavor — one thread at a time. — Sandy Semans

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Bill’s music parlor comes with surround-sound. Photo Chris Bickford

startingpoint roadmap gokite milepost graphiccontent gosurfREPRISE OF BILL REA THE If you thought the Outer Banks’ most beloved bass player sounded outthere happy before, you should hear him now. On a wet Friday in Manteo, Poor Richard’s brims with local color. And a red-faced Bill Rea fills the room with laughter as he recounts another hilarious misadventure. This time from a Joaquinsoaked shrimping expedition gone awry.

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“Two straight weeks of rain and I come home with the worst sunburn of my life,” says the self-effacing 51-year-old, flashing his silliest gap-toothed grin for effect. “And only two shrimp.” Another shot of guffaws ripples the room before the band breaks into Ben E. King’s “Spanish Harlem.” Or maybe it was Sting. Might have been Pure Prairie League. It’s hard to say. Anytime the Other Brothers play, the set list flows with the energy of the audience and an iPad packed with 1000 songs. But some of the most crowdpleasing moments happen between tunes. And that’s no criticism — it’s a compliment. milepost

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After performing together in countless combinations the past 10 years, Rea and guitarist Tommy Desanto more than finish each others’ thoughts — they filet them. Add a dry-humored DJ like Doug Dino on percussion, and the verbal rim shots keep coming all night long. “You won’t catch the Other Brothers asleep at the wheel,” says Rea. “Anytime we can connect with the audience, we’re having fun.” But it’s Bill who always leads the charge. Armed with razor wit and deadly finger dexterity, he’s as comfortable rocking the mike as he is plucking the bass, banjo, guitar, dobro, mandolin — or any of the other stringed instruments he’s picked up since learning the violin as a 9-yearold boy in the Shenandoah Valley. By college, he expanded his on-stage skills to include theatre. That’s how he ended up

on the Outer Banks, working as a historical interpreter on the Elizabeth II. He did so well they promoted him to Captain, where he steered the whole program with administrative skill. Eventually, he jumped ship to a career in banking. But he never forgot his first true love was live performance — actually, make that his second. “I had opportunities to go on the road after college,” he recalls. “But I had other things in my heart: like marrying the girl I’d ridden the bus with since the second grade. I couldn’t see having a family and being on the road. Then I thought: I don’t have to. I can have a vocation and an avocation. I can work and play.” Bill did both with a passion. By day, he’d punch the clock at the bank. By night, he’d pump out basslines for everyone from country swing quintets like the Duck Ridge

Boys to wedding and festival favorites, The Crowd. (One year he counted 130 dates while still putting in 50-plus-hour weeks.) In-between, he raised three beautiful daughters with his wife and beloved Manteo Middle School music teacher, Becki Rea. And that’s how it went for 22 years — until February 2014, when he lost his job after the bank changed hands. Then July brought a bigger shock: Bill was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer. “When you’re facing mortality and you’re struggling with an illness, it’s easy to just stop,” he reflects. “Real easy. But, luckily, I had a real reason not to.” That reason is called Too Old To Fight, Too Fat To Run. It’s the culmination of a lifetime of songwriting and two decades of musical relationships. And it’s all because of a drummer named Martin Parker, who’d left a Nashville life backing big stars like


There’s always something going on at Ricky Skaggs and Vince Gill to build a studio in his native NC. When Parker heard Bill’s songs during a casual “string pull,” he began pestering him to record an album. “After the fifth time, I finally told him, ‘I’m flattered, but all my money’s going to doctors,’” Bill recalls. “Martin said, ‘Who said anything about money?! You’ve got songs, I’ve got a studio — let’s make a record!”

My friends gave me something to do in the darkest part of my life. They gave that to me.”

From January to June, Rea drove to Edenton to lay down tracks. Meanwhile, Parker lined up Bill’s closest compadres to pitch in their parts. The final thirteen cuts star some of best instrumentalists to call the Outer Banks home — Joe Mapp, Buzz Bessette and Joe McGlohon to name a fraction. But the finished product is still 100% Bill, a collection of fun-loving foot-stompers and heartfelt ballads full of American roots, real emotion and zero regrets — except one.

“Martin passed away a month before it came out,” says Rea, getting visibly misty. “But he and my friends gave me something to do in the darkest part of my life. They gave that to me. What a tremendous gift.” But it’s nothing more than what Bill’s done for his fellow players — and now its future ones. When the bank gig disappeared, Bill decided to pick up a few students to help pay the bills. Last spring, he added a few dozen more, teaching violin as part of Dare County Youth Orchestra, a non-profit that puts string instrument instruction into our public schools. Four times a week he heads over to Manteo elementary and middle schools — sometimes as early as 6am — to tune up violins for 52 fiddling kids. They are arguably the least polished players he’s jammed with in years. But with the exception of his own kin — all three daughters sang

back-up on the album — it might be his favorite collaboration yet. “I’ve been going to school concerts since the beginning of time,” he laughs. “Every year, at that first Christmas program, you think, ‘I know “Jingle Bells” is in there somewhere.’ But then you wait all winter long and you get to that spring concert — and you cannot believe it! It’s music! They’re playing! I’ll never grow tired of hearing that jump — that fire that happens.” If you’re lucky, it’s a fire that consumes your whole life. All year long, you’ll catch Rea someplace, from hosting weekly open stages at Kelly’s to filling in on First Friday in front of the Old Courthouse, to his annual gig emceeing for Hotline’s Festival of Trees, auctioning off present-filled pines — and poking fun at himself — to help a good cause and make a few hundred people happy. “It’s my belief that if you’re given a gift, it’s your duty to give it back to people,” he says. “And if my ability is to stand in front of a crowd and make an ass out of myself for your benefit, why shouldn’t I do that? If I can make you laugh or cry or dance with my music, well, it would be a sin if I didn’t do that.”

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Traditions begin with us.

Clearly, a good bass player can do more than glue bands together — he can help bind an entire community. Certainly as much as approving loans for homes and businesses. Which begs the question: in light of all that’s happened, if the right offer came, would he return to the greater wages and stability of a banking career? “No, I don’t think I would,” Bill smiles with pure appreciation. “No man knows when his time is, but if mine’s tomorrow I don’t want to be sitting at a desk. I already did that for 25 years. Now I’m blessed with the opportunity to do things differently.” And so are we. — Leo Gibson

Ed. Note: Look for a special CD release party with the Too Old To Fight, Too Fat To Run live band sometime this winter; stay tuned to www.billreamusic.com for details.

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When did the sea become too cold? Too scary? Too much. When did this body get too damn old? These are the questions we ask. The stabbing pains we willingly self-inflict each winter, as we — the elderly, the infirm, the just plain cowardly — stand and watch other younger, fitter, braver souls do what we once did but can’t anymore. We call it the Dune of Shame. Ours is about 100 yards south of the jetty. But it can be anywhere there’s a raging north swell and at least two old salts watching the sea and licking their wounds. Squinting with crow’s feet and a touch of pterygium in the corner of each eye, and the tortured gaze of someone who’s tackled the ocean for decades, laughing at all its craziest faces, and now must sit on the sidelines and shiver. Applauding the heroes. Heckling the zeroes. Mind-surfing the waves in-between. We ‘ve got all sorts of excuses. Too much current. Too much swell. But the truth is, it’s our own inner failings. Pitching conditions that once looked like pure fun now seem plain scary. Foolhardy, even. And though it might be just one day, that’s a day we once had and will never again. To some that’s a source of rage. To others, it’s humor. Mix them together you get ridicule, trading barbs for each bone-crunching closeout or mind-blowing tube ride. But none sting like the insults that spit in the back of our own heads. Some dudes can’t handle the dune: it hurts too much. They last a minute or two before hustling off, mumbling about more important things to do. But I’ve always liked to listen to the ocean. It drowns out the ringing in my ears. I’ll hang for hours wearing long underwear and an insulated onesie. Reliving all the times I tackled waves twice as big. Water twice as cold. Days when the sea bucked and heaved, determined to toss you back onto the beach. But you held strong, punching through endless rows of rowdy water and biting cold to seize your place in the lineup and ride that wild bronco for hours on end. That’s what earns your place on the dune today. All the whuppings and beat-downs and moments of sheer terror. Those days may be gone. But you had them — by God, you had them. And that’s better than never having them at all. — Russell Blackwood

Some dudes can’t handle the dune. It hurts too much.

To be fair, some of these dudes will paddle out. (Then again, some won’t.) Photo: Daniel Pullen

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endnotes Lights… camera… Christmas! On Nov. 21, get an early start on the holiday production — or show some charitable spirit by pitching in — as Outer Banks HelpPortrait’s team of pro photogs and stylists shoot family photos for free at Jennette’s Pier, 10am-4pm. Find more details on Facebook. • Or focus on sampling fermented flavors when Trio’s Harvest Wine and Beer Fest lets you taste top choices for holiday meals on Nov. 21, 2-5pm. $10. Belly up to www.obxtrio.com for deets. • On Nov. 26, preburn those Thanksgiving Day calories with a number of morning 5ks — including Duck’s 20th Anniversary Advice 5k Turkey Trot. This annual favorite always fills fast, but you can still go exercise your lungs screaming for neighbors. Even better, go boogie down the day before as Nov. 25’s 20th Anniversary Advice 5k Community Concert brings Mama’s Black Sheep and Spare Change to Duck Town Green, 1-5pm. More at www.townofduck. com. • Corolla’s Whalehead joins the festive foot-race craze with Nov. 26’s first-ever Wild Turkey 5k. Entry fee includes a t-shirt and post-race party with pumpkin cheesecake — plus a free climb up Currituck Beach Light. They’ll also be collecting canned goods for local food banks. Register at www.runcations.com. • Dash down to Southern Shores for the OBX Go Far Turkey Trot and One-Mile Fun Run and warm-up your holiday meal with a hot breakfast. First place in each gender takes home a yummy Thanksgiving pie. Everyone else gets pancakes — plus a silent auction and Largest Flock Award for the biggest team/family. More at www.obxgofar.org. • Or help the Outer Banks Running Club keep hustling by doing the OBX Gobbler 5k & Fun Run. This race/walk/stroll through the The Village of Nags Head serves as the non-profit’s primary fundraiser — it also stockpiles nonperishables to feed the area’s hungry. Learn more at www.outerbanksrunningclub.org. • Then finish strong down south as the 4th Annual Surfin’ Turkey 5k and Puppy Drum Fun Run winds through Hatteras Village to help the Hatteras Island Youth Education Fund. Kids enjoy a hot breakfast; adults score a cold beer courtesy of Carolina Brewery. More at www.hatterasyouth.com. • On Nov. 27, press flesh with the world’s jolliest fat man when Avon’s Pangea Tavern hosts a Santa Meet and Greet for the kids — while grown-ups sneak a quick “cheers and chug” at the bar. Frosty details at www.pangeatavern.com. • And Roanoke Island gets lit on Nov. 27 as the Winter Lights Grand Illuminations sets the Elizabethan Gardens aglow with Christmas spirit. This kick-off event features an Embellished Hall full of festivities while cozy fire pits heat the Great Lawn. And the fun times continue shining every Tues.-Sat., Dec. 2-Jan. 23, including a special Winter Lights Holiday Dinner on Dec. 5 and a Winter Lights with Santa on Dec. 19. For pricing and times on all events call 252-473-3234 or visit www.elizabethangardens.org. • Make your Black Friday and Saturday more colorful — and local — with the Hatteras Island Arts & Craft Guild Holiday Show, Nov. 27-28. From 10am-4pm the Cape Hatteras Secondary School fills up with paintings, pottery, fabric and all sorts of handmade holiday items. 10am4pm; free admission. Find updates on Facebook. • Or flashback all the way to an 1850s feast. On Nov. 27-28, Island Foodways at Island Farm interprets 19th century fall traditions with hearth cooking, food preservation, candle making and ox-drawn wagon rides from 10am-12pm. $8; ages 5 and under: free. Bring a nonperishable item for Roanoke Island Food Pantry and receive $1 off. Deets at www.theislandfarm.com. • On Nov. 27-28, Kitty Hawk Kites’ Hangin’ With Santa invites kids to pop in the Nags Head store for a pic with St. Nick. And Nov. 28, take an evening stroll across the bypass to Jockey’s Ridge, where Kites With Lights strings 15- to 30-foot kites with glowing bulbs in a soaring show of Christmas spirit. More info at www.kittyhawk.com. • Still hungry but sick of leftovers? Carry your fat ass to Jarvisburg as Sanctuary Vineyards hosts another plus-sized installment of the Great Curri-Shuck on Nov. 28. From 12-4pm, fill up on all-you-can-eat oysters, BBQ and steamed crustaceans by I Got Your Crabs (while supplies last). Then wash it all down with an endless sipping supply of new wine releases and live music by the Cody Austin Band. $30 tix available on-site, at any Cotton Gin or at www.sanctuaryvineyards.com. • Beat it back to Nags Head’s Shiva’s Drum Yoga Shop by 6pm and you just may make the Nov. 28 Drum Circle with Chip Hedenberg. If you miss it, return for a winter tri-tom of tribal rhythms: Dec. 26, Jan. 23 or Feb. 27. • Or hunt-and-gather the perfect gift when Nov. 28’s

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The Don & Catharine Bryan Cultural Series presents

3rd Annual Outer Banks Entrepreneurs Holiday Bazaar packs independent businesses inside the KDH Ramada to share their wares from 9am-5pm. Sniff around Facebook for more. • Let there be light! In 1875, the Currituck Beach Lighthouse first fired up the dark spot between Bodie Island and Cape Henry. On Tues., Dec. 1, come up to Corolla and celebrate 140 years of shining history with an 11am presentation at the Outer Banks Center for Wildlife Education, followed by a free climb — and a chance to see the lens room — from 12-4pm. More at www.currituckbeachlight.com. • On Dec. 2 the Dare County Democratic Party turns the Roanoke Island Visitors Bureau into an informational beacon by hosting an Economic Forum starring Tazara Mitchell — policy analyst with North Carolina Budget and Tax Center — and Hatteras Island businessman, Danny Couch. And on Dec. 9, head to the Pitt Center in Southern Shores for an Environment Forum with Bill Ross, former secretary of NC Department of Environment and Natural Resources, and Nags Head water quality expert, Todd Kraft. Both presentations are non-partisan and open to all political stripes. More at www. daredemocrats.com. • Want a more hands-on way to help the future, beautify your surroundings and save a buck? Put your kids in a Little Elves Workshop at the KDH CoOperative Gallery, where kids make gifts for the whole family in a handful of afternoons: Tues. class runs Dec. 1, 8 & 15; Wed. is Dec. 2, 9 & 16. (Both classes are 3-5pm; $95.) And for the big dumb grown-up in your life, there’s always the 14th Annual Man Sale on Dec. 24. From 10am-2pm, the staff stands ready to help your hubby choose a last-minute gift with lasting value. Full deets at www.kdhcoop.com. • Does your kid find the shopping mall Kris Kringle a tad cray-cray? Come out to Children @ Play Museum in early Dec. and meet Sensory Santa. This relaxed, low-stimuli version of St. Nick lets exceptional children enjoy the tradition in a low-pressure environment. Learn more at www.childrenatplayobx.com. • Or maybe your parents require extra attention? Take part in GEM Adult Day Services’ Lunch and Learn Series. On Wed., Dec. 2, a video with dementia specialist Teepa Snow describes how to prevent falls. And Ronald DeVeau discusses guardianship and adults living memory loss and other issues, Jan. 5, Feb. 2 and Mar. 1. All take place at KDH’s Baum Center. More at www.gemdayservices.org. • Get a taste of what it’s like to be food insecure — and help feed the hungry — when the 2nd Annual Beach Food Pantry Holiday Chef’s Challenge returns to the Hilton Garden Inn, Dec. 3. From 6-8:30pm, watch area food artists do battle turning donated items into delicacies. Pancake-crusted canned tuna not your thing? You’ll also get to sample top restaurants’ signature dishes, bid on great prize baskets, and enjoy festive holiday music while raising dough for this nutritious non-profit. $50; learn more at www.beachfoodpantry.org. • On Dec. 4 the Outer Banks Hospital Add bubbles to the holiday fun when Kites with Lights floats over Jockey’s Ridge on Nov. 28. Photo: Brooke Mayo

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endnotes serves up two community events: from 12-1pm, a Staying Healthy After Cancer Lunch and Learn offers survivors’ important info (call 252-449-7300 to register); and from 8am1pm, a Medicine Drop Drive-Thru at the Urgent Care in Southern Shores as the Dare County Sheriff’s Department collects unused/unwanted prescriptions to keep drugs off the streets. And on Dec. 17, give the gift of life with an American Red Cross Blood Drive, 10am–3pm, at the hospital in Nags Head. Check up at www.theouterbankshospital.com for details. • First Friday’s holiday nostalgia reaches Rockwellian levels at Downtown Manteo’s Annual Christmas Tree-Lighting on Dec. 4. Don’t miss all the cozy cheer as streets bustle with carol-singing kids, smiling faces, hot chocolate and warm cheer while they set the big pine tree twinkling at 6pm. Then come back Sat., Dec. 5, for the Annual Christmas Parade, complete with marching bands, themed floats and flying candy — all topped with a firetruck-toting Santa. Starts at 11am, but get there early if you don’t wanna squeeze. More at www.townofmanteo.com. • Let’s keep this Roanoke Island Christmas party rocking — and rolling — with the Manteo Preservation Trust’s 11th Annual Holiday Tour of Homes on Dec. 5. Buy your $20 ticket at Outer Banks Distilling — aka Kill Devil Rum — starting at noon. Stick around for light refreshments and a spirited, 80-proof tour, then set off to see fully-decked homes from 1-7pm. More at www. manteopreservationtrust.com. • Then step inside Roanoke Festival Park’s indoor theatre for a theatrical nightcap of two Dec. 5 holiday productions. At 5:30pm, A Dickens Tale creatively tweaks the timeless classic, A Christmas Carol, and lets one unsuspecting student jump on stage as Tiny Tim. Then, at 7pm, Christmas With Santa mixes music, comedy and hijinks after two adorable elves misplace Santa’s presents. Shows cost $5 each. Ages 5 and under free. Full descriptions at www.roanokeisland.com. • Back on the beach, Santa firetrucks over to Duck Town Green’s Yuletide Celebration on Dec. 5 for yummy

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treats and live jams by Just Playin’ Dixieland — plus the lighting of the Town Crab Pot Tree. 3-5pm. Try www.DoDuckNC.com for other special events by area businesses. • And no season’s fully trimmed without Hotline’s Annual Festival of the Trees. This 27th annual, three-day fundraiser fights domestic abuse with decked-out conifers at the Outer Banks Brewing Station. Start Dec. 3 with an all-day holiday bazaar and silent auction — and a 6-9pm visit from Mr. Claus. On Dec. 4 the shopping and ogling continues all day before 7pm’s Champagne Showdown — where local artists decorate bubbly bottles in a battle for bragging rights. (Tix: $10). On Dec. 5, the bazaar items go half-price all day before the tent turns high-class for the Holiday Social and Benefit Auction at 6:30pm. $25 gets you inside the season’s most happening party and a chance to bid on lavishly decorated trees stuffed with big-dollar goods donated by area businesses. More at www.obxfestivaloftrees.org. • Stick around ’cause the Brew Pub will be partying all winter long. On Dec. 6, OBXMas’ combo of local vendors, live music and a silent auction fills a heated tent to raise money for Interfaith Community Outreach. And festivities continue with free Monday Movie Nights on the big screen; Thurs. nights feature Lushes With Brushes painting parties, tapas and live acoustic music on stage during dinner. And start early every Sat. and Sun. morning with a Bartender’s Brunch boasting drink specials ’til 3pm. More at www.obbrewing.com. • Think massive, shop modest, when the Dare County Arts Gallery’s Holiday Small Works Show sells DCAC members’ original artwork, collectibles, music, books and more, Dec. 4–Jan. 8. Come out for the artist reception Dec. 6, 2-4pm, and get to see paintings from the Watercolor Society of North Carolina Traveling Exhibit. Or make your pipsqueak a future Picasso with Kid’s Art Parties by Mari Beth LaRose, 6-8pm every third Fri. Learn more at www.darearts.org. • Wanna make the stage your personal masterpiece? Come out to Manteo’s College of the Albemarle, Dec. 8-10, when

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as “With Love, Aleta.” For years, this 1920s mail boat kept Ocracoke connected with the Theatre of Dare hosts 7pm auditions for their spring musical, The Music Man. Or watch TOD do all the work with a special 25th anniversary production of It’s a Wonderful Life: A outside world. This display further explores coastal communications and vacation traditions Live Radio Play at the Comfort Inn in KDH. On stage, actors interpret the Frank Capra — and encourages young readers — with everyday stories and images, vintage postcards holiday classic as a 1940s radio broadcast; meanwhile, audience members enjoy hors and modern-day mail art. But you better move fast — the Aleta sets sail for good on Feb. d’oeuvres and a cash bar. Dec. 12, 7:30pm; Dec. 13, 26. Learn more about every month’s offerings at www. All aboard! The Graveyard of the Atlantic’s “With Love, 2pm. Go to www.theatreofdareobx.com for prices and graveyardoftheatlantic.com. • Not historic enough for Aleta” mail boat exhibit runs through Feb. 26. details. • Fill your sails with holiday spirit on Dec. 12 you? Travel over to Roanoke Island — and back to when Colington Yacht Club’s Christmas Boat 1850 — with Christmas Past at Island Farm. St. Parade cruises the hood at 5pm. And if that’s not Nicholas arrives by ox-drawn wagon and gives rides enough canvas for you, come out for Sunday Sails at around the trails from 10am-12pm. At 2pm, enjoy a 1pm through the offseason — plus a New Year’s Day poetry reading of “A Visit From St. Nicholas.” In Sail at 1pm. Learn more at www.colingtonyachtclub. between, warm yourself by a crackling fire, visit with com.• Like your floats stuck to land? Post-up between animals, mind your own bee’s wax candle and sample Teach’s Lair Marina and the Hatterasman Drive-In 19th century foods prepared over a fire. $8; kids 5 on Dec. 12 as the Hatteras Village Christmas Parade and under: free. More at www.theislandfarm.com. • lines up themed trailers, bands, horses, motorcycles, Then buzz back over to Elizabethan Gardens for a emergency and Coast Guard vehicles and — of bountiful bouquet of more floral fun, such as Ladies course — a white-slippered Santa Claus. Stick around Night at the Gardens’ mix of champagne and for cookies, cocoa and an announcement of winners at shopping (Dec. 7 & 14, 5-7pm). Maybe learn the Art the Hatteras Village Community Building. Deets at of Centerpieces (Dec. 12 & 15) and how to make the www.hatterasonmymind.com. • Then skip over to the Perfect Holiday Wreath (Dec. 19). Or enjoy Dinner Graveyard of the Atlantic’s 5th Annual Holiday at with Santa — where your kid gets some one-on-one the Museum on Dec. 12. From 12-5pm, enjoy a Winter Wonderland train display, with Father Christmas and walks out with a photo. Times, prices and details at www. children’s holiday craft table, letters to Santa and a professional puppet show — plus local elizabethangardens.org. • On Dec. 17, salute the original flying sleigh with the 112th Wright choral groups and live musicians, hot soups and ham biscuits, fully decorated trees and Brothers Anniversary of Powered Flight. Gather early at Wright Bros. Memorial in KDH shopping deals. • And while you’re there, be sure to enjoy the museum’s many exhibits, such for a full flight plan of aviation antics featuring keynote speaker Douglas Kridler of The

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endnotes Aquarium will be closed Jan. and Feb. to complete renovations. But they plan to reopen in Columbus Foundation, Dr. Tom Crouch, Senior Curator, Aeronautics, The Smithsonian Institution, and fascinating biographical tales told by NPS Historian Darrell Mar., so be sure to take that pent-up toddler for a peek at the undersea makeover. Stay Collins. This year will also continue the “Women In Aviation” theme by inducting Jerrie tuned to www.ncaquariums.com for updates on dates and a grand reopening in June. • Burn Mock — the first woman to fly solo around the world — into the Paul E. Garber First Flight some energy and beautify your environment when the North Carolina Coastal Federation Shrine. And at 10:35am, the exact time of Wilbur and Orville’s legendary lift-off in 1903, coordinates a land-based litter attack in conjunction with their marine debris waterways military and general aircraft will begin an honorary flyover. Admission is free. Complete clean-up on Jan. 16, 9am-12pm. More information available at www.nccoast.org. • Before schedule at www.firstflight.org. • Then lose the wings and lace up the sneakers for Southern you can trash a dress, you’ve gotta pick a design — and a photographer. You’ll also need a Shores’ 3rd Annual Festivus 10k/5k, Jingle Jog venue and caterer. A band or a DJ. Probably a 1-Mile and Little Elf 1/4-Mile on Dec. 19. pastor and most definitely a bartender. Luckily, Highlights include visits from Santa and his Elves, you’ve got the 18th Annual Outer Banks the Festivus Pole — and everyone gets three Wedding Weekend & Expo on Jan. 16-17. presents: a shirt, a medal and a free breakfast. Come out to First Flight Middle and High More at www.runcations.com. • The days between Schools to meet 200-plus professionals — plus here and Dec. 25 are already a blur at press time, take a tour of popular nuptial sites on Sat. from but chances are you’ve got some sort of 5-9pm — so you can ask a million pesky questions Christmas party to attend between now and the before finding the perfect way to say “I do.” Get big day. (Check with your better half before you full details at www.outerbanksweddingassoc.org. • blow it.) • And before you know it, that New On Jan. 23, trade wedding marches for Year’s Day hangover is striking you in the instrumental jams as the Outer Banks Forum for forehead like a sledgehammer. But chances are it the Lively Arts displays The Valinor Quartet’s was worth it, as you rang in 2016 with any one of many musical styles: classical to Beatles; gypsy the traditional favorites: like the Ramada’s annual jazz to Klezmer; popular movie soundtracks to combo of lodging, libations and live music; Trio’s tango. And on Feb. 20, it’s time for A Simon and mix of free tunes, flowing taps and no cover; the Garfunkel Tribute, where A. J. Swearingen and Brew Station’s bubble-fest of champagne, Jayne Kelli channel folk-rock music’s most famous balloons and bands; or Kelly’s dueling DJ’s for duo. Shows are at 7pm at First Flight High $10 a pop. Or, maybe you raced into 2016 at School. Tix are $28; $15 for students. Go to Tortuga’s Lie’s New Years 5k — then finished off www.outerbanksforum.org for a full calendar. with a good chaser. And Hatteras Island has a new • Check one… Check two… Check up? Live way to go bonkers on a global scale, as Pangea music promotes healthy living on Jan. 29 when Tavern’s International New Year’s Eve Party Kelly’s hosts An Evening of Jazz with Dr. John plans to toast its way through multiple time zones. Sanchez and his Chez Says Band. From 7-10pm, (More at www.pangeatavern.com.) Otherwise, party down with neighbors to raise money for the check www.obxentertainment.com for the wild, Community Care Clinic of Dare. Stay tuned to wild world of options. And no matter where you www.kellysrestaurant.com for the most current party down, be sure to cab home. • “Ask not what details. • Opening reception for the 38th Annual your county can do for you; ask what you can do Frank Stick Memorial Art Show will be Jan. 30, for your county…” Aw, hell. Just find out what 6-8pm, at Glenn Eure’s Ghost Fleet Gallery. some other noble local’s already done, then Dare County Arts Council’s longest-running nominate them for the 2016 Governor’s collection of Outer Banks creativity will hang Volunteer Service Award. It’s open to any through Feb. 27, doling out awards for Best in person, group, or business doing good volunteer Show, Excellence, Honorable Mention and work that serves Dare County — but you have to People’s Choice. Watch www.darearts.org for submit nominations by Jan. 8. Learn more at www. Pining for artistic recognition? Enter Feb.’s 38th Annual Frank Stick Memorial Art Show, and updates and when to submit your entries. • On darenc.com. • Old Buck comes out of retirement you might get an award. In 2015, Nancy White won Honorable Mention for “Pine O’Neer.” Feb. 27, celebrate the 65th Anniversary of the on Jan. 6 when Old Christmas returns to the Elizabethan Gardens with a Blue Sapphire Rodanthe Community Building. Gather ’round Diamonds and Denim Fundraiser. From 6-11pm, wear your tried-and-true blue jeans for roasted oysters, local ribaldry and hopefully no fisticuffs as Hatteras Islanders pay tribute while dancing and dining among a sparkling scene of comfy elegance. Tickets are $65 for to their ancestors of yore with one last whack at the holidays. • Classically trained talents bang out top-tier chamber music — and masterpieces by Brahms, Mozart, Beethoven and members, $70 for non-members. For table rates and sponsor opportunities, visit www. elizabethangardens.org. • Finally, doll yourself up and raise dough for Children @ Play Schumann — when the Bryan Cultural Series brings the Amara Piano Quartet to when Surf Pediatrics presents the 2016 Mardi Gras Gala on Mar. 5. This black-tie fête Southern Shores’ All Saints Episcopal Church on Jan. 7. And on Feb. 16, First Flight High turns Pirates Cove Pavilion into Bourbon Street for a night of New Orleans cuisine, lavish School delivers primetime star power as the Neil Simon Festival production of Driving masks and live music by Just Playin’ Dixieland — plus a silent auction and an open bar with Miss Daisy fills its lead roles with Walker, Texas Ranger’s Clarence Gilyard and Dallas’ Charlene Tilton. Both shows cost $15 each. For more info visit www.bryanculturalseries.org. beer and wine. $50 tix. Visit www.childrenatplayobx.com for table rates, sponsorship • Better come up with some fresh ways to wear out your wee ones, as the Roanoke Island opportunites, ways to donate and other dazzling details.

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opeN Year RouNd ServiNg LuNch & DiNNer

Mile

It's ALL Good!

9.5

Milepost 9.5 • Highway 158 in KDH • 252.441.7889 • MamaKwans.com

Always Sunny

at the Shack!

Open Tues-Sun • Lunch & Dinner* Sunday: Bonzer Breakfast 11:30 am to 3:00 pm Wednesday: Baby Burger & Brew Night

OutdOOr SeatiNg

Friday Live Music 6-9 PM

Lunch Specials $9.99 each Tuesday

Chirozo Sausage Chimichanga

w/ Pepper Jack Cheese & Refried Beans in a Flour Tortilla.

Wednesday

Wrappin’ Wednesdays!

Wrap with Chopped Chicken and “Ole C” BBQ Sauce & Shack Slaw. Served with fresh-cut Potato Chips and a Cup of Soup.

Thursday

Caribbean Jerk Meatloaf with Tater Tots and Veggie

Follow the Fun on Facebook! * taking a Bonzer Break! We Will Be Closed November 30 & re-Open december 27th

Friday

Fish & Chips

saTurday Captain Crunch Shrimp

MP9 on the Beach Rd. • Kill Devil Hills • BonzerShack.com • 252.480.1010

milepost 55


COLD COMFORT. Cozy up to our Cool seleCtion of seasonal beers and winter speCials.

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established 2001.


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