Explore Yellowstone - Summer 2020 by Outlaw Partners

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YOUR GUIDE TO AMERICA’S FIRST NATIONAL PARK

VOL. 6 | 2020

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Experience the historic Diamond J Ranch in the heart of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem.

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Helianthella uniflora, aka one-flower helianthella—a member of the sunflower family—in full bloom on Blacktail Plateau. PHOTO BY JIM PEACO

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SUMMER 2020

Owned and published in Big Sky, Montana PUBLISHER Eric Ladd EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, VP MEDIA Joseph T. O’Connor MANAGING EDITOR Jessianne Castle DEPUTY EDITOR Bella Butler ASSOCIATE EDITOR, DISTRIBUTION DIRECTOR Brandon Walker CREATIVE ART DIRECTOR Marisa Opheim GRAPHIC DESIGNER ME Brown SALES AND OPERATIONS CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Megan Paulson VP SALES AND MARKETING E.J. Daws VP EVENTS Ennion Williams MEDIA AND EVENTS DIRECTOR Ersin Ozer BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT LEAD Sam Brooks CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER Blythe Beaubien CONTROLLER Treston Wold CONTRIBUTORS Skyler Boyd, Jacob W. Frank, Goutham Ganesh Sivanandam, Christine Gianas Weinheimer, Ed Harper, Neal Herbert, Jonathan Larson, Leon Lee, Chris Leipelt, Jim Peaco, Diane Renkin, Patrick Straub, Todd Wilkinson To advertise, contact Sam Brooks at sam@theoutlawpartners.com. OUTLAW PARTNERS P.O. Box 160250, Big Sky, MT 59716 (406) 995-2055 • media@outlaw.partners © 2020 Outlaw Partners unauthorized reproduction prohibited ON THE COVER: Grand Prismatic Spring of Yellowstone National Park. As the hottest spring in the United States, and third in the world behind Frying Pan Lake in New Zealand and Boiling Lake in Dominica, Grand Prismatic discharges 560 gallons of 160 F water each minute. PHOTO BY CHRIS LEIPELT

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D E PA R T M E N T S EXPLORE Maps: Gettting to and traveling in Yellowstone....................................78 Yellowstone Experience: Sholly on park future...................................82 SNAPSHOT Wallace Stegner, “The Sound of the Mountain”................................88 FLORA AND FAUNA Study: Bison good for landscape......................................................93 Tips for viewing wildlife....................................................................94 Fall raptor migration.......................................................................96 ADVENTURE Fishing primer......................................................................................98 For future generations....................................................................100 The Road Less Traveled..................................................................102 Recipes: Campfire cuisine for the (sorta) outdoorsperson.............104

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Sunrise on Yellowstone Lake (Flat Mountain Arm) PHOTO BY NPS/NEAL HERBERT

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EXPLORING YELLOWSTONE

Due to COVID-19, park access and amenities may not be available at full capacity. Visit nps.gov/yell for timely updates.

YELLOWSTONE AND GRAND TETON ENTRANCE FEES VEHICLES

$35 per vehicle to visit each individual park, good for seven days

MOTORCYCLES OR SNOWMOBILES

$30 for each park, good for seven days

INDIVIDUAL (foot/bicycle/ski, etc.) $20 per person for each park, good for seven days 78

ANNUAL PASSES

ACCESS PASS

$70 for each individual park. An $80 America the Beautiful Pass is valid for entry to all fee areas on federal lands and is valid for one year.

Free for U.S. citizens or permanent residents with permanent disabilities

SENIOR PASSES

Free annual pass available for active duty military personnel and their dependents

$80 lifetime pass, or $20 annual pass, available to U.S. citizens or permanent residents age 62 or older

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MILITARY ANNUAL PASS FREE ENTRANCE DAYS

August 25: National Park Service Birthday September 26: National Public Lands Day November 11: Veterans Day

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THE YELLOWSTONE EXPERIENCE Superintendent Sholly on challenges facing Yellowstone BY TODD WILKINSON Just five months shy of his 50th birthday, Yellowstone Superintendent Cam Sholly, the top decision-maker in this country’s most venerable nature preserve, was tasked to confront a mind-boggling array of controversies, large and small, immediate and long term. On the day we met in the spring of 2019, he was preparing for his first summer deluge of visitors that traditionally commences after Memorial Day. Some 434,000 visits were notched in Yellowstone in May 2019, slightly down from the same month a year ago, which was the busiest May ever. While 2019 saw a 2.3 percent decrease in total number of park visitors from 2018, 725,000 more people came to Yellowstone than just a decade ago. Sholly noted that some things about Yellowstone in summer are not markedly different. “Since my first days here back in the mid-80s, I remember traffic gridlock caused by bison, bears and other animals along the roadside,” he said. “People love this place and that’s not going to change,” he added. “If people weren’t so enthusiastic about coming here, I’d be worried. Fundamentally, the question we need to ask ourselves is how do we continue to give visitors an experience they’ll never forget, while preserving the most important aspects of what keeps Yellowstone a one-of-a-kind place in the world: it’s diverse and interconnected resources.” Talk to local people who live in the region, including those who steadfastly avoid going to Yellowstone in

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summer, and many say its front-country is congested beyond capacity. “I don’t take quite the alarmist’s viewpoint that some people do—at least not yet,” Sholly said. “Let’s put some things in perspective. Traffic moving through a road corridor, which covers one percent of Yellowstone’s 2.2 million acres, is not nose diving the condition of the resources, even when it’s bumper to bumper in certain places. That said, there are more visitors here than ever. We need to take it seriously and have an organized approach to how we manage visitors today, and what that might look like tomorrow.” A lot of ideas have been floated, not by Sholly but by citizens: a quota or lottery system that limits the number of people allowed to enter the park on a given day; a public transportation system comprised of shuttles; even monorails. Maybe someday such things might gain traction, Sholly said, but not anytime soon. At current rising rates, Yellowstone could see the number of total annual tourist visits rise from 4.2 million to 6 million in a decade. “I can say unequivocally that we have not strategically managed increased visitor use in this park,” Sholly said. In one of the most extensive visitor-use surveys conducted in National Park Service history, conducted in 2018, 75 percent of visitors to Yellowstone were found to be in the park for the first time. Surprising perhaps to critics is that among those visitors surveyed, well over 90 percent said they had an excellent to very good experience during their stay.

Yellowstone National Park Superintendent Cam Sholly

EXPLORE YELLOWSTONE

NPS PHOTOS/JACOB W. FRANK

going to stop and get out of their cars, take pictures—it’s a bucket-list moment to them and they’re enjoying it. To the angler sitting behind the steering wheel 30 cars back, who has seen thousands of bison, he’s frustrated,” Sholly said. “Reconciling these various forms of enjoyment while protecting the resources successfully is really what visitor-use management is all about.”

Vehicles line up during a bison jam in Hayden Valley.

This raises another question: Who is able to be a better gauge of what the Yellowstone experience should be— those who have been making regular pilgrimages to the park for decades and are dismayed, or those encountering it new with possibly lower expectations? Sholly says it’s important for people who live close by in the tri-state region of Wyoming, Montana and Idaho to understand perspectives of the latter. “To those who are here seeing a bison or bear for the first time, it’s a life-changing event. When they do, they’re

Given the wide range of Yellowstone stakeholders and varying interests, he’s under no delusion that it will be easy. And he notes no one is surveying the wildlife, asking it what level of human visitation it would prefer. No other national park in the Lower 48 has the diversity of large mammals Yellowstone does and there’s a reason for that. Most of the park is unfragmented, devoid of huge throngs of people, including recreationists that are rapidly inundating wildlands outside the park, and habitat remains in good shape, at least for now. Sholly isn’t the equivalent of a crusading Captain Planet. He is really akin, in some ways, to a big city mayor dealing with huge infrastructure challenges that often overshadow other priorities.

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Two statistics loom immediately large: Yellowstone’s multi-billion-dollar asset portfolio—its human-built infrastructure—is plagued with a reported $580 million in deferred maintenance. Some estimate that number to be considerably higher than reported, perhaps twice as large. Another stat is rising visitation. Not long ago, Sholly told Montana Gov. Steve Bullock something that park advocates have been seeking for years: “We don’t have a visitor-use-management strategy in this park. We have talked a lot about increased visitation. We’ve done some excellent surveys and social science exercises to get more data. But generally speaking, no one could tell you right now what our strategy is, or what we’re doing to manage visitation more effectively, and that needs to change.”

Park personnel conducted an extensive visitor-use survey in 2018 to better understand how travelers are experiencing Yellowstone.

YELLOWSTONE’S STRATEGIC PRIORITIES

In 2019, Yellowstone National Park released a series of major strategic priorities that will guide shortand long-term decision making in the years to come. They are:

» Focus on the Core: Improve the working and living conditions of the Yellowstone team,

how the park manages its financial resources, and how it works toward the best administrative and operational framework.

» Strengthen the Ecosystem and Heritage Resources: Understand and respond to the effects of climate change, promote large-landscape and wildlife conservation efforts, and protect and improve the condition of Yellowstone’s vast cultural and historic resources.

» Deliver a World Class Visitor Experience: Provide clarity and direction around how

the park will handle increased visitation in upcoming years, with special focus on visitor impacts on resources, staffing and infrastructure, visitor experience and gateway communities. This priority also focuses heavily on improving public safety and resource protection.

» Invest in Infrastructure: Develop a more cogent deferred maintenance reduction plan, improve the quality of data and prioritization processes, and take better advantage of current and future funding to improve asset conditions and protect investments.

» Build Coalitions and Partnerships: Continue to build and align priorities with

many partners including Yellowstone Forever, the philanthropic community, tribes, elected officials, environmental and conservation groups, concessioners, communities, states and other federal cooperators.

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SNAPSHOT

WILD COUNTRY Montana novelist and short-story writer Wallace Stegner, revered as the Dean of Western Writers, knew how to pen a phrase. Stegner wrote about what he loved—the austere beauty of the American West—and through the poetic power of prose, he carved out his own place among Western authors as an outspoken environmentalist. Writing during a time of rapid change in the west following World War II, Stegner’s works were a rich investigation into the legacy of the West—both a hymn to the Western landscape and close look at its trajectory from mythical past to diminished present and yet hopeful future. “The Sound of Mountain Water: The Changing American West,” is a compilation of Stegner’s essays, memoirs, letters and speeches spanning 25 years of his career. It is in this timeless collection that Stegner reflects on what it means for America to keep wild places safe—as it is in comparison to these wild places that we might truly understand our own humanity. We hope you enjoy these images inspired by Stegner and his “A Wilderness Letter.” – The Editors

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A herd of bison grazes in the Hayden Valley, taking in the early morning sunlight. PHOTO BY LEON LEE

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“Something will have gone out of us as a people if we ever let the remaining wilderness be destroyed ... so that never again will Americans be free in their own country from the noise, the exhausts, the stinks of human and automotive waste. And so that never again can we have the chance to see ourselves single, separate, vertical and individual in the world, part of the environment of trees and rocks and soil, brother to the other animals, part of the natural world and competent to belong in it ... we simply need that wild country available to us, even if we never do more than drive to its edge and look in. For it can be a means of reassuring ourselves of our sanity as creatures, a part of the geography of hope.” -Wallace Stegner

White Dome Geyser sprays hot water and steam and into the crisp evening air. PHOTO BY JONATHAN LARSON

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Above: A mighty bison, the U.S.’s national animal, stands proud in amber grasses. PHOTO BY GOUTHAM GANESH SIVANANDAM Below: A grizzly sow, accompanied by two young cubs, surveys the expansive wilds below. PHOTO BY ADAM WILLOUGHBY-KNOX

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Norries Geyser Basin, Yellowstone National Park. PHOTO BY LUFANG CAO

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Gift of the Bison

Study shows Yellowstone bison positively affect land NATIONAL PARK SERVICE Biologists from the National Park Service, U.S. Geological Survey and the Universities of Wyoming and Montana recently learned of the positive effects of bison on the land. The researchers published findings of a 10-year study about bison migration and grazing in Yellowstone National Park in the peer-reviewed journal “Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences” in November 2019. The findings confirm that wild bison shape vegetation cycles and enhance growth throughout the summer.

in a growth cycle, providing the most nutritious food for migrating animals. Evidence over the last decade supports that migrating ungulates—or hooved mammals—follow the wave of spring plant growth. Bison begin their migrations by following spring green up but their intense grazing lets them fall behind the wave of spring. “Whereas migratory mule deer closely choreograph their movements so they are in synchronization with the flush of fresh green grass as it moves up the mountain, bison movements are not so constrained. They make their own fresh grass by grazing intensely in large aggregations,” said Chris Geremia, lead author of the study and senior bison biologist at Yellowstone National Park. This behavior sets bison apart from other North American ungulates.

A bison grazes on the Blacktail Deer Plateau in Yellowstone. NPS PHOTO/NEAL HERBERT

The findings result from a decade of research on Yellowstone bison by National Park Service biologists which included putting GPS collars on bison, setting up field experiments to evaluate plant growth and grazing intensity, and collecting dung and plant samples. Scientists discovered, with the help of NASA satellites, that areas grazed intensely by larger groups of bison greened-up earlier, more intensely and for longer durations each year. The findings also indicate that bison migrate differently than other species because of how they graze, frequently returning to the same areas of the park, which keeps plants

During the study, comparative plots among fenced and grazed areas showed grazing at high intensity delayed plant maturation by stimulating plants to produce new young shoots after being grazed. Bison then frequently returned to graze the same areas, keeping plants growing, although the plants never appear more than a few inches tall. Short, young plants provide the most nutritious foods for migrating animals. “I commend Dr. Geremia and our partners for completing this incredibly in-depth study,” said Yellowstone National Park Superintendent Cam Sholly. “These unprecedented findings teach us about the complexities of wild bison and underscore the critical ecological role they play on the Yellowstone landscape.” The bison population in Yellowstone is one of the only free-ranging populations in North America. Animals migrate more than 60 miles in the park.

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Bison graze in Lamar Valley, known as the Serengeti of North America for its abundant wildlife. NPS PHOTO/NEAL HERBERT

TIPS FOR VIEWING WILDLIFE ON YELLOWSTONE’S NORTHERN RANGE BY CHRISTINE GIANAS WEINHEIMER If wildlife watching is on your wish list this summer, look no further than Yellowstone’s Northern Range. This northern section of Yellowstone National Park has a high density of wildlife combined with wide-open vistas, making it an ideal place to see large mammals and an assortment of other creatures. It is accessible by automobile year-round via the 57-mile route between Gardiner and Cooke City, Montana. At the Northern Range’s heart is Lamar Valley, nicknamed the “Serengeti of North America” for its abundant wildlife. The area is also considered the world’s premier location to see wolves in the wild. You can not only view a wide variety of species here, but also see predator and prey species interacting with each other. “If you’ve never gone wildlife watching in the park with an experienced naturalist, I highly recommend

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you give it a try,” said Zachary Park, director of institute operations for the Yellowstone Forever Institute. “Make sure they bring along high-quality scopes, which can vastly improve wildlife viewing.” Here are a few more tips to help make the most of your day in Yellowstone’s Northern Range:

CHECK ON CONDITIONS.

If entering through the park’s North Entrance in Gardiner—usually the most efficient way to reach the Northern Range—stop at the Albright Visitor Center in Mammoth Hot Springs to pick up a map, check on current road and trail conditions and learn of any wildlife closure areas.

PLAN YOUR TIMING.

If possible, plan the majority of your outing in the early morning or early evening when most large mammals tend to be feeding and are more easily seen.

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PACK YOUR BINOCULARS AND YOUR PATIENCE. You’ll need to steadily and

slowly scan the landscape for movement, taking advantage of the many road-side pullouts along the Northeast Entrance Road. Don’t forget to look up; watch for eagles, osprey and other raptors near water sources.

LOOK FOR ANIMAL BABIES.

Bison calves, or “red dogs,” start making their appearance in April. In May you might also see bear cubs, wolf pups or bighorn sheep lambs. Elk calves are usually the last to arrive, in late May or June.

or after your wildlife-watching drive to avoid hiking at dawn or dusk, when bears are more active. The Yellowstone River Picnic Area Trail tends to be a good choice, even early in the season when some park trails are still covered in snow. The easy-to-moderate trail is 3.7 miles round-trip and affords views of the river and surrounding mountains. Keep an eye out for bighorn sheep.

TAKE A TOUR.

To help you explore the Northern Range, the Yellowstone Forever Institute offers educational tours and other programs ranging from a half-day to several days.

HIT A TRAIL. Inquire at a visitor center or ranger STAY SAFE. Follow park guidelines and stay at station about trail conditions and plan a hike for before

Elk, born in May and June, are among the many species of wildlife that call Yellowstone home. NPS PHOTO/JACOB W. FRANK

least 100 yards away from bears and wolves, and at least 25 yards from all other animals. Always hike in groups, make noise and carry bear spray, even on short day hikes. Visit nps.gov/yell for the latest information on Yellowstone road conditions and bear safety guidelines. Christine Gianas Weinheimer is the director of communications at Yellowstone Forever. She lives in Bozeman, Montana, and has been writing about Yellowstone for 19 years.

Wildlife watching is a popular activity in Yellowstone. Park officials require you to stay at least 100 yards away from bears and wolves, and at least 25 yards from all other animals. NPS PHOTO/DIANE RENKIN

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Red-tailed hawks perch in a tree near Hellroaring Creek in Yellowstone’s Northern Range. NPS PHOTO/JACOB W. FRANK

CATCH THE FALL

RAPTOR MIGRATION IN YELLOWSTONE BY CHRISTINE GIANAS WEINHEIMER

Humans have long been fascinated by birds of prey. Their graceful passage through the sky, hunting prowess and impressive wingspans make them awe-inspiring to watch. Luckily for us, a great time and place to see raptors on the wing is autumn in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem.

Gallatin mountain ranges are ideal places to witness the fall migration of hawks, eagles and other raptors, as are the wide-open valleys of Yellowstone National Park. The park’s Hayden Valley is a popular destination to view birds of prey, especially Swainson’s hawks.

Increasingly colder temperatures and shorter days trigger the birds’ instinct to migrate from this area in late August or early September continuing through early October. You’ll see resident birds migrating as well as those passing through on their route between their nesting territories and their winter ranges in the southern United States, Central America or South America.

We asked Brad Bulin, senior naturalist for the Yellowstone Forever Institute, for some tips on viewing the fall raptor migration in Yellowstone and the surrounding area. He said that knowing a little about how birds migrate will provide you with clues as to the best places and times to see them.

The north-south ridges of the Bridger and 96

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“Most raptors migrate during the daytime, when thermals—or columns of rising air—form as the sun warms the ground below,” Bulin said, adding that the birds “ride” these thermals, enabling

E Y: F LO R A A N D FA U N A

RAPTOR GUIDE BALD EAGLE

NPS PHOTO/JACOB W. FRANK

ROUGH-LEGGED HAWK NPS PHOTO/JACOB W. FRANK

GOLDEN EAGLE

AMERICAN KESTREL

RED-TAILED HAWK

SWAINSON’S HAWK

NPS PHOTO/NEAL HERBERT

NPS PHOTO/JACOB W. FRANK

them to conserve a great deal of energy as they gain altitude without flapping their wings. Because air currents rising up the side of a mountain are particularly strong, large numbers of raptors roughly follow the north-south ridges of the Continental Divide as a migration corridor. “Afternoons tend to be better than mornings, after the wind picks up. Right after a storm comes through is probably the best time. During a cold front, the winds blow counterclockwise,” he said. “That north-to-south wind direction is exactly what the raptors need.” When in Yellowstone, he suggests positioning yourself anywhere with a wide-open view of the

NPS PHOTO/JACOB W. FRANK

PHOTO BY ED HARPER

sky. “Hayden Valley, Dunraven Pass, Mount Washburn and Swan Lake Flats are all located along migration routes and are good places to spot raptors,” Bulin said. He advises using binoculars and constantly scanning the sky and ridgelines, as well as tall trees. “If the weather is not conducive to flying— if it’s raining or there’s very little wind—look up in the trees to spot raptors waiting to continue their long journey south.” Want to learn more? The Yellowstone Forever Institute will offer a one-day Field Seminar, “Yellowstone Raptors,” on Sept. 6, 2020. Visit yellowstone.org for details.

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Fly fishing near Biscuit Basin NPS PHOTO/ JACOB W. FRANK

Yellowstone FISHING PRIMER BY PATRICK STRAUB

It’s been 100 years since the National Park Service was created and its duties include managing the first national park in Yellowstone National Park. Despite the unfortunate recent events—including careless visitors leaving the boardwalk and walking in a sensitive hot springs area—the Park Service’s centennial goes on and we celebrate it as part of our national heritage. In looking forward to an exciting centennial season, local anglers eagerly await the opening of the park’s fishing season on the Saturday of Memorial Day weekend. Many of us will venture to Yellowstone that day and fish the world’s highest concentration of trout-filled accessible waters. The idea to create Yellowstone National Park wasn’t driven by anglers, but it sure could have been given the angling wonders that exist within its boundaries. Miles of accessible waters. Yellowstone National Park is just that—a park, with 2.2 million acres of public lands. Within those boundaries exist hundreds of bends, riffles, pools and undercut banks where four species

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of wild trout and Arctic grayling lie in wait to eat your well-presented fly. A valid Yellowstone fishing permit is required and they can be obtained at most local fly shops. Armed with your fishing permit, some local knowledge and a good sense of adventure, the fishing opportunities in Yellowstone are potentially endless. Clear water options to fish right now. Many of our freestone rivers are high and muddy as runoff peaks, but several fishing options exist in the park. The Firehole, Gibbon and Madison rivers typically run clear during late May and through the summer. In addition to their clear waters, the Gibbon and Firehole flow through geyser basins. Every angler should experience casting your flies near the rising steam of a hot spring or erupting geyser. These rivers are also easily wadeable, making them user-friendly for all levels of wading ability. Dry fly angler’s paradise. The Firehole River flows gently through bends and riffles over much of its

EY: ADVENTURE course. Above Old Faithful geyser basin the river is small and characterized by downed timber and rock cliffs. Below the geyser basin the gradient slows and its currents create an idyllic setting for rising trout and long drifts. Home to abundant populations of mayflies and caddis, the Firehole River is the river to break in a new three-weight rod or work on your reach cast. Despite a few meadow sections, the Gibbon River flows faster than the Firehole. It has plenty of pocket water and riffle corners, ideal for anglers who enjoy fishing attractor dry flies to opportunistic trout. The Madison River, created by the Gibbon and Firehole, mirrors its two source rivers with its respective angling opportunities. Native Yellowstone cutthroat trout. Yellowstone Lake opens to fishing in early June and is home to the world’s largest population of native Yellowstone cutthroat trout. This species is only found in the Yellowstone River drainage and in the lake—they often cruise the shallows of the lake, making them catchable from shore. As runoff subsides later in the summer, these fish can also be caught in the main stem of the Yellowstone River and its major tributaries, such as the Lamar River, Slough Creek and Soda Butte Creek. Known for their willingness to rise to a dry fly, these fish are as enjoyable to catch as they are unique. Wild angling companions. While fishing on any water in Yellowstone, you’re likely to encounter the park’s varied wildlife. Bison are most commonly seen as they enjoy grazing on the lush riparian vegetation. Elk are often spotted near rivers as well as moose—but be wary of moose as their poor eyesight can cause them to mistake you for a predator. A moose charge is not to be taken lightly.

PHOTO COURTESY OF GALLATIN RIVER GUIDES

If you choose to fish in areas frequented by grizzly bears, fish with a companion and carry bear spray. If you do spot a grizzly, give the bear plenty of room and choose another place to fish for the day.

I’ve been fortunate to have fished in several exotic locations—for massive brown trout in Patagonia; tigerfish in southern Africa; bonefish, permit and tarpon in several Caribbean locations; and for steelhead and salmon in Alaska. They’ve all burned permanent memories in my angling psyche; however, the most vivid memories occurred two hours from my home in Yellowstone National Park. Patrick Straub is a 20-year veteran guide and outfitter on Montana’s waters and has fished the world over. He now writes and manages the social media for Yellow Dog Flyfishing Adventures. He is the author of six books, including Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Fly Fishing.

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A male bison surveys his surroundings in Yellowstone National Park. PHOTO BY BRANDON WALKER

FOR FUTURE

GENERATIONS The importance of preserving America’s wild lands BY BRANDON WALKER

Growing up, my idea of Yellowstone National Park was

gathered watching TV at my grandmother’s house. I had no idea I’d eventually set foot on the same soil as the elk, bison and wolves that mesmerized me as a child. I went 23 years without visiting any of the 62 national parks in the U.S. Born and raised in a small Vermont town, I attended a state college less than an hour away, returning to my high school alma mater for my first “real” job. Maple syrup, small towns and the low-lying mountains of Vermont were all I’d ever known. It was time to explore outside the Green Mountain State. Realizing Ohio was the farthest west I’d traveled in the continental U.S.— coupled with the fact I could count the number of states I’d visited on my own two hands—was the metaphorical push I needed. I narrowed down potential landing spots to Alaska, which I had visited the previous summer, and Montana, a place I’d never experienced. The unknown along with encouragement from friends and family led me to hit the road toward the Treasure State. On my first trip to Yellowstone my party was on the way to a trailhead when we spotted a massive bison clopping down the road in the oncoming traffic lane. Large clouds billowed from his nostrils as he exhaled the cool morning air, ignoring our vehicle trailing behind him. The fond childhood memories of Yellowstone that I’d 100

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gathered from a TV screen materialized before my eyes. Scott Christensen, interim executive director of the Greater Yellowstone Coalition, defines Yellowstone this way: “I just feel like Yellowstone is one of those places that has the ability to really influence people and their awareness,” said Christensen, whose organization began protecting Yellowstone and its surrounding ecosystem in 1983. “It just grabs you.” Within a couple weeks, I was headed to the park boundary to meet a friend for an evening hike. We witnessed a breathtaking sunset and shared some laughs. My appreciation for the park is founded on abbreviated but rich moments like these. For me, it isn’t merely a matter of what you see but who you’re with. “There’s over 420 units in the national park system across the U.S. and they really create a space to kind of reconnect people to wild places and … the story of America,” said Northern Rockies Associate Director Stephanie Adams of the National Parks Conservation Association. “[Yellowstone is] one of the largest intact ecosystems that we have left in the world—especially in the U.S.—and it really creates, sort of the heart of this landscape.” For over 100 years, the NPCA has focused on the goal of preserving and advocating for our national parks, from their more than 20 offices throughout the U.S. “One of our goals is to really make sure

EY: ADVENTURE that you’ve got this group of people that continue to advocate for national parks and really see them as something that’s valuable and something that’s important to preserving large landscapes,” Adams said. As summer faded, I knew the park’s primary season was nearing its end. The next trip we made was a tour of Yellowstone’s Northern Range. The terraced thermal features, scorched earth and steaming craters were more otherworldly than the TV programs could ever convey. Driving to the northern entrance, we passed groups of elk and made our way through the infamous Roosevelt Arch. I vividly recall wondering why I had never dreamed of visiting this incredible place before. “To be able to have a job where I get to spend time and energy trying to ensure they stay that way—they stick around—I feel really, really fortunate,” Christensen said describing his deep passion for Yellowstone and similar ecosystems. We spent the night near the town of Gardiner and the northern boundary of

A geothermal stream flows through a valley in Yellowstone National Park. PHOTO BY SKYLER BOYD

the park. The following day we made our way to the Boiling River, soaking in the steaming water, reminiscing about the summer’s adventures. The final trip of the season, my friend and I took advantage of a fleeting, warm fall evening to hike—albeit with snow on the trail. As we walked, we viewed three lonesome bison in a sprawling meadow. They provoked thoughts of when the meadow would’ve been filled with other ungulates. I felt gratitude for the unchanged landscape—and hope it remains unchanged. “I think that’s one of the great things about Yellowstone … people can go there and experience it and connect with it and come away with a much greater awareness of how their decisions, wherever they are in the world, impact a place that they care about,” Christensen said.

“I think that’s one of the great things about Yellowstone … people can go there and experience it and connect with it and come away with a much greater awareness of how their decisions, wherever they are in the world, impact a place that they care about.” Everyone, even future generations, should have the same opportunity I had: To seek out adventures and gather memories, be it in Yellowstone, another national park or the vast public lands in America. “So many species that live in Yellowstone need to spend time beyond park borders and a lot of those lands that are private are facing increased human development,” Adams said. Christensen echoed this sentiment: “The simple fact is that if you want to continue to have healthy wildlife in Yellowstone, you’ve got to do a lot of work outside of Yellowstone to make sure that that habitat stays intact,” he said. It took me 23 years to finally visit a national park—others may need longer. We need to preserve what we have, so eventually we all may enjoy it. I’m overwhelmingly grateful that such places exist. While the memories I’ve collected in Yellowstone and the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem will differ from the next person’s, I hope we can preserve the wonders of this earth. “I think with Yellowstone really being America’s first national park, it’s such an incredible opportunity for us to show how you can have this large landscape where it’s actually conserved,” Adams said. Yellowstone was designated as the first national park nearly 150 years ago. The question before us remains: How much longer will places such as Yellowstone exist? Their fate is up to us. explorebigsky.com / Explore Yellowstone

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Backpackers hiking into the Black Canyon of the Yellowstone NPS PHOTO/ JACOB W. FRANK

The Road Less Traveled

HIDDEN TRE ASURES OF AMERICA’S FIRS T NATIONAL PARK BY BELLA BUTLER Roaming bison, spouting geysers and mineral pools ablaze in color, to name a few wonders, have drawn crowds in the millions to Yellowstone in recent years, making it not only the country’s first national park but also one of its most visited. Yet, there are roads less traveled to explore within the 3,000-plus square miles of preserved magic. Here are two of our favorites. SUMMIT MISSION: OBSERVATION PEAK The vistas from Mount Washburn’s summit are unmistakably beautiful, but it can be hard to see in its entirety through the swarms of other visitors vying for a view. If you’re up for a longer day (9.6 miles out and back), opt for the less popular Observation Peak. The first part of the trail, which gets the most traffic, cuts through vibrant meadows, eventually arriving at the alpine sanctuary of Cascade Lake. Bring a plant guide and enjoy a snack while identifying wildflowers. Since trail traffic thins out beyond the lake, you’re likely to spot more wildlife as you continue toward the peak. Keep your eyes peeled for raptors, rodents, ungulates … and don’t forget the bear spray! From Cascade Lake, pace yourself wisely on the 1,400-foot climb to the 102

summit. Along the ridge, an old burn affords generous vistas interspersed with whitebark pine forest. On the 10,413-foot summit, a relic of early 20th century Yellowstone overlooks the Gallatin Range and the Hayden Valley. The fire lookout, built in 1939 by the National Park Service and Civilian Conservation Corps, remains a reminder of the flames that swept the region throughout the 1900s. BLACK CANYON BACKPACKING Coursing through the northern reaches of the park, the Black Canyon of the Yellowstone is a marvel reserved only for those willing to travel on foot or by hoof. The approximately 18.5-mile, point-to-point trail requires a car shuttle and a recommended three days. The Black Canyon is also one of the best early season overnight adventures thanks to its lower elevation.

“TWO ROADS DIVERGED IN A WOOD, AND I— I TOOK THE ONE LESS TRAVELED BY, AND THAT HAS MADE ALL THE DIFFERENCE.” -ROBERT FROST

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Beginning at the Hellroaring trailhead, the moderate trail descends to a suspension bridge that crosses the Yellowstone River. Meandering through lowland sagebrush, the first few miles are a great introduction to Yellowstone’s Northern Range, which is known for its high concentration of wildlife. The second day features quintessential canyon bottom views and riverside hiking.

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The Park Service advises that hikers take diligent notice of park and private property boundaries while exiting the canyon in Gardiner, Montana. Anyone planning on camping in Yellowstone’s backcountry must obtain a permit for each campsite and pay a fee. More information on permitting, as well as planning backcountry excursions, can be found at nps.gov/yell.

Abandonded Fire Observation Station at the summit of Observation Peak, Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming Backpackers descend the trail toward the Yellowstone River in the Black Canyon of the Yellowstone.

PHOTO BY JOHN MARINO

NPS PHOTO/JACOB W. FRANK

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SECTION: SUBHEAD

Hot dog on a stick? Camping recipes for the (sorta) outdoorsperson BY SCOTT MECHURA

PHOTOS BY RILEY BROWN

Look at you. It’s mid-summer and it’s your first camping trip of the season. You’re standing behind your car, arms folded, admiring your packing handiwork. It’s a mix of old and new: your treasured gear you’ve repaired time and time again mixed in with this year’s new items: that fancy new two burner stove and your brand new 20-degree sleeping bag. Your grandfather’s famous tent. Then you look in your cooler. Yep, I’d be embarrassed too. Suddenly a few items stand out as you realize what you packed for food items, if you can call them that. A sad pack of hot dogs sits in the corner, a can of baked beans and some soggy cereal boxes for the kids soak in the melting ice. You’ve got the usual. But it doesn’t have to be this way. Camping is supposed to be where you escape the routine, get away from it all. Why not use the downtime at your campsite to liven things up a bit? Show off your kitchen know-how under a Montana sunset and wow your friends. Here are a few recipes to get you started for your first overnight trip with tasty meals. 104

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RECIPES

Breakfast, day one:

The Elvis Serves four

2 ½ cups all-purpose flour 1 cup milk 2 eggs ½ teaspoon baking soda 4 very ripe bananas 1 tablespoon soft butter ½ teaspoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon nutmeg 2 tablespoons brown sugar 2 teaspoons vanilla 3 tablespoons coconut oil 1 jar of your favorite peanut butter

• Combine all dry ingredients and place into plastic container or sealable plastic bag. Combine wet ingredients into separate container or plastic bag. • When that cool crisp morning comes, combine wet ingredients with dry in a bowl and spoon into a hot pan with cooking oil. Flip once the first few bubbles break. Remove from pan and spread peanut butter on top while still warm.

Pro tip: The key to most successful camp cooking is the pan. Use Teflon or cast iron. Cleaning cast iron is simple: scrape excess food and debris and dispose of properly. Then turn upside-down and place over the campfire. You can leave until morning. A couple drops of oil and a paper towel it’s ready for use again.

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Lunch, day one:

Montana Cristo Serves four

8 ounces ham 4 ounces goat cheese 8 slices sourdough bread 3 ounces huckleberry jam ½ stick butter 6 eggs ¼ cup milk Salt and pepper

Recipe requires a nonstick pan.

• Whisk together eggs and milk, add salt and pepper to taste. • Spread goat cheese on one side of four slices of bread. Spread huckleberry jam on one side of the other four slices. Evenly divide ham among four slices of bread. Press sandwiches together. • Gently melt butter in nonstick pan. Dip both sides of sandwiches into the egg and milk mixture. Place in pan with melted butter and cook one side until golden brown. Flip and repeat. Slice and enjoy.

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Dinner: day one:

Ultimate steak and potatoes

RECIPES

Serves four

4 each favorite rib eye steaks 3 each russet potato sliced thin ½ cup clarified butter or cooking oil (not olive oil) 1 bunch carrots, small to medium ¼ cup honey 2 teaspoons thyme leaves Coarse salt and pepper Recipe requires two cast iron pans and aluminum foil.

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Season steaks and set aside. If cooking directly in campfire, slice carrots in half lengthwise, season with salt and pepper and wrap in aluminum foil. Nestle in the coals to side. If cooking on grill, season carrots with drizzle of oil, salt and pepper, and place directly on grill. Cook carrots until tender throughout, cooking one side until almost black.

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Place both cast irons in coal or, heat to medium-high on burner. Add drizzle of clarified butter or oil to steak pan. Add remaining butter or oil to other pan. Add steaks to pan once hot. Add potatoes to other pan with majority of butter or oil, laying in circular pattern, overlapping by half in two layers. Sprinkle with thyme, spreading evenly over top. Season with salt and pepper. Remove carrots from heat and drizzle with honey.

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You now have the ultimate camping steak and potato dinner. The crispy potatoes with thyme add a wonderful contrast to roasted or grilled carrots with the sweetness of the honey and some natural burnt sugars. And rib eye in cast iron is a match made in heaven. explorebigsky.com / Explore Yellowstone

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Breakfast, day two:

Back to Reality Frittata Serves four

It’s the last day, which means it’s time to wake up and pack up. But you still need to start the day right with breakfast. Here’s an easy one. ½ diced onion 1 bell pepper 2 cups leftover ham from lunch ¼ cup milk 6 eggs 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese Salt and pepper to taste • Stir together all ingredients and pour into your cast iron pan. Cover this pan with foil and place in the morning coals or over a low burner. Bake until it doesn’t jiggle and enjoy. Take one last look at the mountains and head back to reality. Next weekend, rinse and repeat. Scott Mechura has nearly four decades of experience in hospitality, from mountain lodges to private clubs in Big Sky to the Texas Hill Country, Mexico and Idaho. He has opened prime steak houses and boutique hotels, and has cooked in top echelon kitchens of fine dining restaurants in the Twin Cities.

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