?
AN INDEPENDENT
SCOTLAND ONE TRAVELLER ASKS WHY
WINNERS OF OUR
2014
PHOTO CONTEST
THE MOMENTS WE TRAVEL FOR
EXOTIC
MAFIA ISLAND
Just What the Season Calls For
COLOMBIA
TEAM OUTPOST
EXPLORES ONE OF 2015’s
104
TOP DESTINATIONS
MARCH APRIL
OUTPOSTMAGAZINE.COM $4.50 CAN/US. DISPLAY UNTIL MAY 31, 2015
+ When NOT to Depend on the Kindness of Strangers + How I Became a Global Citizen + Craning in Amsterdam
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CONTRIBUTOR
Daniel Wickie
D
aniel Wickie is a writer, filmmaker, and long-time travel addict. He credits his wanderlust to his parents: a mother who was a refugee during the Second World War, and a father in the mining industry who moved the family to the jungles of Indonesia in the 1970s. When not helping run a video production company at home in Toronto, he can be found surfing, climbing or sampling craft beer, all in the name of research, of course. He has been to more than 50 countries, and can even spell some of them.
ISSUE•104 Publisher/Editorial Director MATT ROBINSON matt@outpostmagazine.com Editor DEBORAH SANBORN deborah@outpostmagazine.com Creative/Art Director SERGIO DAVID SPADAVECCHIA david@outpostmagazine.com Senior Editor/Writer & Special Travel Advisor SIMON VAUGHAN simon@outpostmagazine.com Associate/Online Editor DANIEL PUIATTI dan@outpostmagazine.com
TEAM OUTPOST COLOMBIA
Gear Editor PAUL AUERBACH
O
nce again, we composed an elite team of adventure storytellers who travelled to Colombia and came back to report on this top emerging destination. Scott Wilson, world traveller and co-creator/host of Descending and the award-winning travel TV series Departures; Robert J. Brodey, writer, photographer, long-distance trail runner and Spanish aficionado; the dynamic Andrew Sheppard, veteran adventure-videographer and travel-filming expert; and Ryan Edwardson, master photographer/writer with a legendary attention to detail. Read our Colombia Adventure Report in this issue, then check out www.opxpeditions.com/colombia
Editor-at-Large (Asia) JEFF FUCHS Editor-at-Large (Europe) RYAN MURDOCK Contributors This Issue ROBERT J. BRODEY, RYAN EDWARDSON, SHAUN PETT, JOE SANBORN, ANDREW SHEPPARD, DANIEL WICKIE, SCOTT WILSON Contributing Editors BILL ROBERTS, FINA SCROPPO, EVAN SOLOMON, IAN WRIGHT
Sales Manager GREG DAVIS
greg@outpostmagazine.com Outpost [ISSN: 1203-7125] is published six times a year by Outpost Incorporated at 250 Augusta Ave., Suite 207 Toronto, ON M5T 2L7 Editorial and Business : 416.972.6635 Advertising: 416.972.6527 info@outpostmagazine.com - www.outpostmagazine.com Individual Subscriptions Canada: 1 Year [6 Issues] $20 CDN, 2 years $35 CDN USA: 1 Year [6 Issues] $30 US, 2 years $50 US Intl: 1 Year [6 Issues] $40 US, 2 years $60 US
SCOTT WILSON
ROBERT J. BRODEY
ANDREW SHEPPARD
RYAN EDWARDSON
READ. THINK. COMMENT. The most powerful aspect of writing is the social discussion it sparks. With our new online columnists – Outpost contributors Simon Vaughan, Ryan Murdock and Dario De Santis – we are embracing the art of travel conversation.
Subscriber Services: 416.972.6635. Although Outpost rarely does, subscriber lists may be made available to fully screened companies or organizations whose products may interest our readers. To be excluded from these mailings email circ@outpostmagazine.com, or write to the above address. Publications Mail Agreement #0040017920 Postmaster send address changes & undeliverable copies to above address. We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Periodical Fund (CPF). Copyright 2015 Outpost Incorporated. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. Printed in Canada. Outpost is a member of Magazines Canada. Made possible with the support of
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23/02/2015 4:27:22 PM
CC_3200_5
T
he dhow motors out of the calm hug of Chole Bay. As we near the bay’s gateway the wind hits first, whipped up without impediment on the wide Indian Ocean that stretches empty blue all the way to Southeast Asia. Then the floor of the bay drops away, and so does the calm, and long waves of deep water rock the handmade wood hull. Marco points out remote islands where itinerant fishermen camp and dry their haul for markets beyond. These lone souls in dugout canoes ride the swells around us, just waiting for a catch.
Âť A NGALAWA CANOE USED BY FISHERMEN
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23/02/2015 3:25:56 PM
Don’t let the name fool you. Skip Zanzibar, and head to this rich but undiscovered slice of Indian Ocean paradise
ISTOCKPHOTO
Story by Shaun Pett
www.outpostmagazine.com
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31
2015 • MARCH/APRIL
23/02/2015 3:26:19 PM
BENEATH THE L “
A mile frae Pentcaitland, on the road to the sea Stands a yew tree a thousand years old And the old women swear by the grey o’ their hair That it knows what the future will hold For the shadows of Scotland stand round it ‘Mid the kail and the corn and the kye All the hopes and the fears of a thousand long years Under the Lothian sky rian
„
c eill, he attlefield and
» EDINBURGH CASTLE STANDS SILHOUETTED AGAINST THE EVENING SKY
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23/02/2015 3:30:34 PM
E LOTHIAN FOG Story by Daniel Wickie
S
hould Scotland be an independent country? From vibrant Edinburgh to verdant highland to historic battlefield, one traveller explores why Scots have been asking that question for more than 700 years
“What’s in a haggis?” “You don’t want to know. Livers. Guts. Stuff. But there’s oatmeal in it as well. So don’t worry.” Lovely. I was glad the oatmeal would cut the offal. I was with my companion Andrea, who had come with me in part to see where her Scottish father had grown up in Glasgow. She felt honour-bound to try haggis. We would talk tough about it and threaten to order it but never quite get there, until our last night in Scotland, when we didn’t have a choice. When it did arrive, it was dark and evil-smelling, and flecked with white. We would steel ourselves with drink, but that was in the future, and at the moment we were on the slow train from London, bound for Edinburgh. I had asked a seatmate a banal question about something outside the window—“Are there always so many sheep?”— www.outpostmagazine.com
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which led to him instantly handing me the first of what would eventually be a half-dozen bottles of beer from the red rollie bag above his head. It clinked and clanked like a drunken knight every time he reached up to take it down, which was often. He was late fifties, sporting steel-rimmed glasses, a plaid shirt and stylish black leather half boots. He was at least four beers in when we started chatting. The conversation went from sheep, to Hadrian’s Wall, to the Celtic Football Club, to haggis. I actually wasn’t all that keen on the specifics of Scotland’s famous dish, but the conversation served as useful lubrication into my real line of enquiry: the Referendum. The month before, Scotland had gone to the polls to answer one black-and-white question: Should Scotland be an independent country? It was a straightforward “majority rules” framework and the result was “No,” with 55.3 percent voting to stay a part of the United Kingdom.
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2015 • MARCH/APRIL
23/02/2015 3:31:13 PM
R.E.
SOARING OVER CANYONS, TREKKING THROUGH VALLEYS, RAFTING ON WHITEWATER AND CHILLING ON BEACHES—WE SHOW YOU WHY WE NAMED THIS SOUTH AMERICAN GEM AS ONE OF 2015’S TOP DESTINATIONS
Riding the big waves down the Chicamocha River
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COLOMBIA
ey, with Simon Vaughaeyn Story By Robert J. Brod d Robert J. Brod Photos by Ryan Edwardson an
R E P O R T
D O O G SO
d to d the
A D V E N T U R E
T L E F R E V E N G N I H T A E R B
ood, so he
23/02/2015 4:22:40 PM
COLOMBIA
EL DORADO
The name is legendary in exploration and adventure. Synonymous with thrillseeking and reward, the hunt for the rumoured city of gold has filled books and movies for years, not to mention the imagination of scoreless generations of adventurers. Although El Dorado remains a jungle-bound enigma, centuries of explorers have landed on palm-fringed shorelines, hiked dense tropical forest, climbed snowcapped mountains and active volcanos, and trekked across deep winding canyons, all in search of the fabled, ancient city.
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R.E.
And all those intrepid explorations took place in present-day Colombia, which is why Team Outpost decided to follow in their footsteps—and hoof-marks, canoe-wakes and paragliding vortexes—to explore one of the world’s great adventure destinations. Located at the crossroads of South and Central America, Colombia was the first country in South America to be colonized by the Spanish in 1525 (they first set foot there in 1499), and is believed by anthropologists to be among the first on the continent to be inhabited by humans. With a spine of volcanoes and jagged Andean Mountains surrounded by verdant Amazon jungle, as well as lined by both the Caribbean Sea and Pacific Ocean, Colombia has captured the imagination of all whose travels have taken them there for the past 10 millennia or so—imagine that! After some difficult decades late in the last century, a settled and thriving Colombia is once again beckoning explorers in search of spectacular scenery, endless adventure, rich culture, unique cuisine, unrivalled music, warm people, unspoiled nature—and perhaps, even El Dorado itself. From the capital city of Bogotá—the gateway to Colombia for most visitors—to the far Amazonian south, from the high Andes to remote and tropical beaches, Colombia genuinely has something for everyone, and as a growing travel destination it provides the opportunity to be among the first to rediscover one of the southern continent’s great treasures. Bogotá was founded shortly after the arrival of Christopher Columbus, from whom the country gained its name. Perched at more than 2,600 metres, it provides a wonderful introduction to a country rich with coffee, gold, history and the arts. Where better to grow accustomed to the altitude than in La Candelaria: a cobblestoned neighbourhood brimming with colonial buildings, world-famous museums and wonderful restaurants. You can venture to neighbouring Monserrate Mountain and ride a funicular for a spectacular view of the entire city, or simply acclimatize by hopping from café to café, drinking in great local music and the stunning Latin vibe. From Bogotá, you are bound for rewards in Colombia as great as those of El Dorado. Unspoiled rainforest; renowned and hidden archaeological ruins; friendly fishing villages; both vibrant and undiscovered beaches; classic historic colonial towns; breathtaking mountain vistas; and the scents of exotic flowers, sea breezes and the world’s best coffee. Along the way, you can hike and trek, climb and soar, raft and canoe—or simply chill, all while mixing with cowboys and salsa dancers, indigenous guides and archaeologists, fashion designers and artists, and perhaps even a few modern-day adventurers still seeking their own fortune in the lost city of gold.
»
23/02/2015 3:36:40 PM
GRAND PRIZE WINNER,
THE ULTIMATE DOMINICA TRIP FOR TWO THE GOLDEN TEMPLE OF AMRITSAR, INDIA
By the stroke of luck I found myself [at] the famous Golden Temple of Amritsar [the holiest shrine in Sikhism] on [one of] the most important days in Sikhism: Guru Nanak’s birthday. Some 3,000 devotees gather at the iconic temple, and once dusk comes a procession of candle vigils commences. This is that moment. I [was] able to nudge myself into an amazing spot, with my back against a pole for support…I was able to capture a major sequence of this frame and this shot particularly came out great. DUSTIN KERSCHTIEN
Sony is very proud to provide our revolutionary A7 Full Frame camera + Carl Zeiss lens to help capture your next adventure! The A7 is the perfect companion for wherever your travels take you. Full frame, palm-sized, zero compromise. Todd Toyoda, Director, Digital Imaging, Sony of Canada
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Serene diving and unpretentious yet charming accommodations are supplemented by a wide array of activities on this eco-adventure island. Ann Louise Tuke, Caradonna Dive Adventures
Thanks to all participants in the photo contest – Dominica awaits the winner for an adventure of a lifetime. Discover Dominica Authority
24/02/2015 3:26:38 PM
FIRST RUNNER-UP
1ST RUNNER-UP: FIRE-STAFF SPIN OFF, ASTRAL HARVEST FESTIVAL, ALBERTA
With a fire staff, when you first light it, the wicks are still a bit saturated with fuel, which makes it a bit dangerous…This photo is demonstrating a controlled fire (fuel) spin off, where you throw the staff in the air, while rolling [it] between both hands so the wicks on the end spray fuel into twin fireballs in midair. I used a larger aperture lens, as well as great timing, to meter off of the light that is thrown off. CHRIS HOBAN
2
ND RUNNER-UP: HAPPY KIDS IN PERU This was taken in Chinchero, a small sacred town in Peru. I was walking around a pathway when suddenly this group of kids were skipping towards me. I said “Hola!,” and they were so happy to say hello back and approached me to see why I was holding so many cameras. I let them play with them and said “Say cheese.” They quickly [struck] a pose and smiled (especially the little girl standing the closest). They gave me a lot of hugs before they skipped away. LISTYA NINDITA DOVE SKY, INDIA I was walking along the ghats in Varanasi during sunrise, when a man clapped his hands and suddenly all these doves started flying around me. I had only a few seconds before the doves took their original place on the steps. KELLY VAN DE VLIET
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24/02/2015 3:28:35 PM
Spectacular Places, Fascinating Cultures, Thrilling Adventures… Fantastic Stories to Tell!
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23/02/2015 3:22:44 PM
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