BLEED TRIM
MAIL STOP
Outpost
PHOTO: FRANK WOLF
LIVE
TRAVEL FOR REAL
NO.52
Publisher
MATT ROBINSON matt@outpostmagazine.com Editor
LARRY FROLICK larry@outpostmagazine.com Editors-at-Large
CHRISTOPHER FREY chris@outpostmagazine.com KEVIN VALLELY kevin@outpostmagazine.com Senior Editor, Travel Health DEBORAH SANBORN deborah@outpostmagazine.com Senior Editor KEVIN BLACK black@outpostmagazine.com Associate Editors
LIONEL MANN, KRISHNA RAU, CALE BAIN Editorial Assistants
PAULINA BARTOSIEWICZ, ANDREA GRZYBOWSKI Photographers-at-Large
LORNE BRIDGMAN, JASON GEORGE, DONALD WEBER Art Director
Outpost makes it all the way to the Pinnacles in Mulu National Park, Sarawak, Borneo, Malaysia.
CHRISTINE AGER-SMYTH production@outpostmagazine.com Graphic Designer
JEFF GUSCOTT Map Design
Six Degrees of Separation I spotted the name Frank Wolf a few days ago—a passing mention in Eye Magazine of his plans to kayak the Northwest Passage. That same day my friend invited me to the Reel Paddle Festival. One of the featured films? Across Asgaard, directed by Frank Wolf. The next day I was at a friend’s house; we were talking about where we were going to canoe this summer. An Outpost subscriber, we were browsing through the magazine, when lo and behold there was an article by Frank Wolf. Wow. Interesting coincidences. A bit of googling confirmed that this was the same person I met one summer as a camp counsellor. I remember in particular when, despite having little experience, I was subbed in at the last minute to “co-lead” a trip into Temagami after the head tripper broke his ankle. It was an inspiring trip and my love of canoe dates back to then. Lori Gaud Toronto, Ontario
Correction: In the Global Travel Guide that appeared in Outpost 49, incorrect web site information was provided for the New Zealand trip “Secret South Safari”. The company that leads the trip, Hiking New Zealand, can be found online at www.nzhike.com, or by e-mail at info@ nzhike.com. Outpost apologizes for the error.
Feedback? Comments? A travel tidbit to share? Outpost welcomes letters to the editor: editor@outpostmagazine.com
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Outpost JULY/AUGUST 2006
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STEVE WILSON Assistant Designer and Illustrators
ALEXANDRA ISHIGAKI, JR FERRER, JASON LOO Photographers
ANDREA SOGGE, NATALIE BAY Food Editor
DON DOULOFF Contributing Editors
ROBERT J. BRODEY, MICHAEL BUCKLEY, CHRIS CHOPIK, DAVID FIELD, ADNAN KHAN, PATTI GOWER, RYAN MURDOCK, TYLER STIEM, CHAD ULANSKY Explorers Club Co-Editor
JOSEPH FREY
Online Manager LIONEL MANN lionel@outpostmagazine.com Outpost [ISSN: 1203-7125] is published six times a year by: Outpost Incorporated, 425 Queen St. W., Suite 201 Toronto, ON M5V 2A5 Editorial and Business Tel: [416] 972-6635 Advertising Tel: [416] 972-6527 Fax: [416] 972-6645 E-mail: info@outpostmagazine.com Web site: www.outpostmagazine.com Individual Subscriptions Canada: 1 Year [6 Issues] $20 Cdn, 2 years $35 Cdn USA: 1 Year [6 Issues] $30 US, 2 years $50 US Intl: 1 Year [6 Issues] $40 US, 2 years $60 US Subscriber Services: 416-972-6635. Although we rarely do, we may make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies and organizations whose products may be of interest to our readers. To be excluded from these mailings email us at circ@ outpostmagazine.com, or write to the above address. Subscriptions to Outpost are also available through memberships to Hostelling International in British Columbia and Alberta for $35 Cdn. Publications Mail Agreement #0040017920 Postmaster send address changes & undeliverable copies to above address. PAP Registration No. 10626 We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada, through the Canada Magazine Fund and the Publications Assistance Program (PAP), toward our editorial and mailing costs. Copyright 2006 Outpost Incorporated. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. Printed in Canada. Outpost is a member of Magazines Canada.
Outpost TRAVEL FOR REAL
New Zealand’s Sporting Life Possessing a do-it-yourself approach to adventure perfectly suited to the bounty and beauty of their land, New Zealanders have made an art of being outdoors. Outpost presents this special survey of adventures Kiwi-style, traversing the country from tip to tail
Bruce Robinson begins the second day of the Hump Ridge Track— tackling New Zealand’s rugged South Island. www.outpostmagazine.com JULY/AUGUST 2006 Outpost
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KIWIS HAVE BEEN FORMED BY THE SAME FORCES OF
NATURE THAT HAVE SHAPED THEIR LAND’S GEOGRAPHY.
STORY: ROBERT J. BRODEY PHOTOGRAPHY: RYAN CARTER AND ROBERT J. BRODEY 38 Outpost JULY/AUGUST 2006
www.outpostmagazine.com
54 Outpost may/june 2006  www.outpostmagazine.com
In the waning days of World War II, as the Japanese realized that Allied Forces would be closing in on their positions in Borneo, over 2,000 Australian and British POWs were put to backbreaking work carrying supplies and equipment over hundreds of kilometres through Sabah’s dense jungle. In this exclusive report, Outpost travels to the now hidden jungle tracks sixty years later to retrace this brutal, forgotten episode of the war’s history. STORY BY KEVIN VALLELY PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRANK WOLF
www.outpostmagazine.com JULY/AUGUST 2006 Outpost
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CANADIAN Four-wheel summer getaways
roadtrips photo: tracy toh
classic
www.outpostmagazine.com  JULY/AUGUST 2006 Outpost
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ALBERTA
ALBERTA
AIN NT
OU
YM
CK
RO DRUMHELLER DINOSAUR TRAIL
S
BRITISH COLUMBIA
WATERTON LAKES NATIONAL PARK
CALGARY BELLEVUE HEAD-SMASHED-IN BUFFALO JUMP
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
DURATION: This trip can also be done as two separate day trips out of Calgary. But you should allow yourself time for camping at Waterton. ROADS: Decent secondary highways; Hwy 22 northsouth is preferable to the busier Hwy 2 and lies closer to the Rockies. Season: All year round.
I am nothing. After experiencing the lunar landscapes of the Badlands, and the majesty of the Rockies, I’m now
THE BIG EMPTY By Kathleen Scheibling standing in a vast field of golden grass that reaches into the distance to meet a huge blue sky. The land is perfectly flat—there are no buildings, no houses, no animals that I can see. I’m alone, exposed, and I have the strangest feeling there’s a target painted on my head. If Mother Nature wanted to smite me, here’s her chance. It’s ten o’clock at night and the sun looks as if it’s never going to set. I’ve been driving back on Hwy 2 toward Calgary after hiking Waterton National Park and its huge mountains, canyons, waterfalls, rivers and lakes. Mule deer wandered past me on the trail, and as I was leaving I drove slowly past two black bears trying to break into a garbage can secured against their hunger and mischief. It’s only the beginning of the summer season and there aren’t many people here, but I felt surrounded by life. Not so on the drive back. There are hardly any cars on the highway, a flat stretch of road that runs parallel to the mountains. I have to know if this feeling of solitude is due to the fact that I’m sitting alone in my machine, so I stop and walk into the grasslands, assuming
70 Outpost JULY/AUGUST 2006 www.outpostmagazine.com
that no one will come along and shoo me off their land. Of course, if anybody tried to I'd see them coming for about an hour. It’s difficult to believe that I mean anything, that I have a job, a family, friends, a purpose other than standing here in this field. This is Big Sky Country—some say God’s Country, and although I’m not a believer, I understand why this is so. Sandwiched in between blue and gold, I realize that though I may appear to be insignificant in this landscape, I am as much—or as little—as I want to believe. I get back in the car and put on Ian Tyson’s latest CD, feeling as if I’m part of something.
Highlights Dinosaur trail and Tyrrell Museum [of Paleontology] The Dinosaur Trail is the road to 4.5 billion years of history, a circular route of 51 kms leaving Drumheller that passes through rugged, mindbending Badland and offers several dramatic overlooks. Just outside town check out the Royal Tyrrell Museum of paleontology which houses the
world’s largest exhibit of complete dinosaur skeletons (35 in total), as well as fossils, hands-on displays and computer simulations. Head-Smashed-in Buffalo Jump For nearly 6,000 years, the Blackfoot practiced a custom of chasing bison over a steep precipice and carving up the carcasses in the camp below. This world famous site pays homage to these hunters' acute understanding of topography and bison behaviour. Bellevue Mine & Frank Slide Put on a helmet, strap on a battery pack, grab a lamp and take a walking tour into the 336-metre tunnel, organized by the Frank Slide Interpretive Centre. The site is a fascinating underground world, which contains original mine artifacts used by early coal miners. Waterton Lakes National Park Don’t miss the spectacular scenery, unusual geology, wildlife and recreational opportunities of this famous destination. The highlights include Upper Waterton Lake, the deepest lake in the Canadian Rockies, and some of the oldest exposed sedimentary rock.
photo: tRAVEL alberta; Map illustrations: Jeff GUSCott
Route: First head northwest out of Calgary on Hwy 9 toward Drumheller, where you’ll find the Royal Tyrrell Museum of paleontology and hook up with the Dinosaur Trail, a circular route that takes in the lunar landscape of the Alberta Badlands. Then you can either backtrack to Calgary or find your own route, but the goal is Hwy 22 south, driving the spectacular divide between the prairie and Rocky Mountains. distance: Approximately 500 kms one way from Drumheller to Calgary then south to Waterton.
qaanaaq itseqqortoormiit paamiut bankscambridge isle tasiilaq hammerfest baffin isle arkhangel’snoril’sk tromso tamperemurmansk barrowinuvik bay malmo goteburg oulo provideniya oslo nome yekaterinburg gavle iqaluit nuuk vilyuytiksicherskiy bethel alberta copenhagen st. petersburg helsinki ob' bergen yukon petropavlovskturku tallinn whitehorse repulse bay omsk siberia moscow anadyr riga valdez dempster smolensk british columbia magadan glasgow amsterdam kamchatskiy minsk kazan saskatchewan ufaperm yenisey hrodna kodiak victoria ivujivik kelowna kaliningrad prince george manchester edmonton dublin bremen cologne voronezh stuttgart lake baikal essen berne lodz brest fredricton hay river churchill yakitsk london london bruggevienna rivne samara krasnoyarsk thunderschefferville bay warsaw toulouse prague calgary omsk irkutsk montreal krakaw vacouver quebec city st. johns marseille kyiv walla wallasaskatoon richmond hamilton cornwall chelyabinsk novosibirsk paris sydney volgograd vladivostok nantes bratislava portland regina bordeaux lyon ottawa halifax ukraine ulaanbaatar monaco winnipeg montreal armenia harbin bishkek milan seattle minneapolis bilbao rostov sapporo porto zaragoza oshawa astana denver sevilla rome istanbul tibilsi ashgabat cleveland tirana changchunyokohoma barcelona milwaukee madrid baotou manchester toronto valencia bursa tokyo lisbon athens baku tashkent malaga palermo yerevan shenyang columbus sacramento urumqi izmer dalian nagoya gibraltar chicago dushhambe detroit new york san francisco aleppo pyongyang oklahoma city beijing phoenix el paso norfolk kansas city taklan makan jinan seoulosaka new jersey damascus kabul los angeles boston lhasa beirut lanzhou jerusalem st louis kashi charleston rabat fokuoka albaquerque thimphu esfahan memphis shanghai jacksonville gary khandahar tunis vegas baghdad sanlasdiego atlanta algeria tripoli wuhanpusan tehran new orleans islamabad kathmandu kuwait san antonio fort myers al jawf cairo amman new delhi pensacola guiyang baja chongqing shiraz tijuana laayoune manama quetta lahore aswan mt. everest mexihouston cali naples orlando miami muscat agadez kanpur hong kong kolkata port sudanmedian casablanca chiapas abu dhabi mumbai naning banjul Tombouctou nagpurkunming mexico city riyadh mecca pune khartoum zinder hyderabad kano luzon cuba hanoi manila guanajuato mandalay bamako haiti asmara sanaa niamey banglore ouagadougou zacatecas vientiane moundou cochin bissau hophnom chi bacolod costa rica jamaica cebu jaffna rangoon porto novo abuja djibouti davao freetown juba panama accrabangui colombo bangkok min city dakar ilbadan hargeysa penh lagos addis ababa kuala guyana monrovia kisangani abidjan bogota brunei mogadishu cayenne yaounde doula singapore lampore nairobi boa vista quitomanaus malaysia brazzaville terem librevillekampala pontianak manaus sumatra sorong macapa borneo goma nairobi kigali palembang huanoco kinshasa medan makassar jayapura lima san velo luis bujambura madang goma porto amazon salvador lao mombassa bandung dodoma bakavu semarang macapa brazil maceio port moresby la paz cuiba brasilia dar es salaam luanda canpo grande lilongew sucrepotosi vitoria lusaka moroni curitiba lubango harare darwin santos valparaiso port hedland namibe cairns beira antananarivo asuncion la plata kitwe toamasina gladstone belo horizonte windhoek alice springs mbabane mount isabrisbane argentina gaborone concepion kalgoorlie resistancia durban pretoria johannesburg maseru perth canerra bahia blanca lesotho sun city florianopolis bunbury adelaide puerto montt cape town sydney mar del melbourne auckland cordoba Río santa fe hastings buenos aires wellington plata dunedin Gallegos rosario punta arenas san carlos ushuaia
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