SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2008
65 contents
In Every Issue 4 Mail Stop Notes from the editors
7 Tripping Zebras are more than horses behind bars
8 On the Fringe Native species fight back, arboreal “I dos” and a high-tailing turtle
11 Local Knowledge Looking for a spice-induced high? The 10 best ways to order up culinary adventure
14 Gourmet du Monde Go nuts for sweet potatoes
16 Healthpost Brush up on the latest in dental health and ensure toothsome travel
18 Thrillseeker Tracking down Internet rumours leads to China’s most treacherous hike
20 MEC’s The Traveller’s Edge Tips from and for world trekkers
23 Shutter Stop Life-saving tips for underwater photography
Features 39 Jungle Science
Story: Oliver Gunther Photography: Thomas Breuer and Oliver Gunther Plunge deep into the heart of the Congolese jungle and learn everything you ever wanted to know about primates
48 Portraits of the Past
Story and Photography: Matthew Stein Our writer heads to off-the-radar Somaliland to marvel at mysterious cave paintings that may just be the next big thing in African archaeology
58 What Lies in the Mist
Story and Photography: Kevin Patterson In a country still coming to terms with its past, can gorilla tourism pave Rwanda’s path to a sustainable peace?
26 Field Notes An underwater archaeologist maps sternwheeler graveyards and the world’s coolest caves
32 Going Hard Northern Ontario’s Mississagi River is the best canoe trip you’ve never heard of
64 World Writes Europe’s past, London wrecks, Henry Miller, Paul Theroux and Italian wines
66 Backpackerz Buzz News from Hostelling International
78 Wright of Way Ian Wright on why the African desert inspires bad poetry PHOTOGRAPHY: COVER, GILES BRETON-WWW.FLICKR.COM/PHOTOS/GILESBRETON; INSETS, DAVE SPROULE, ISTOCKPHOTO; THIS PAGE, (TOP) LAURA BOMBIER; (BOTTOM) KEVIN PATTERSON