Travel ideas
Travel ideas
SOUTH PACIFIC EDITION
THE MAGAZINE FOR TRAVELLERS, EXPLORERS & DAYDREAMERS
Just the two of us THE BEST ROMANTIC GETAWAYS
Find bliss in the
S O U T H PA C I F I C E D I T I O N / Issue # 19
South Pacifıc
TAKE YOUR PICK FROM THOUSANDS OF IDYLLIC ISLANDS
ALSO IN THIS ISSUE
Cook Islands / Fiji / French Polynesia / Hawaii / New Caledonia / Samoa / Tonga / Vanuatu AND LOADS MORE INSIDE
Fun for the family VISIT PAPUA NEW GUINEA ON A CRUISE WITH KIDS
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contents FEAT UR ES
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The forgotten islands
Discover a quieter side of French Polynesia.
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Perfectly cooked
Taste the fresh flavours of Cook Islands cuisine.
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The real Fiji
Reefs, waterfalls and snorkelling – away from the rush.
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Island dreaming
Vanuatu is a delight for every traveller.
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Eating on the water
An introduction to New Caledonian cuisine.
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Polynesian paradise
Samoa’s natural beauty in all its glory.
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Roads worth the ride
Tour three iconic Hawaiian islands by car.
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The secrets of the Solomons
Everything from WWII history to village life.
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Loved up in the South Pacific
Escape to an island paradise with your beau.
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10 things to try in Tonga
It’s pint-sized, yet packed with experiences.
THE
SOUTH PACIFIC EDITION
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Land ahoy!
Explore Papua New Guinea by cruise.
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Riding a new wave
Fiji’s best surf breaks are calling.
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Cook Islands adventures
Connect with island culture and laidback locals.
Travel ideas
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T H E SO UTH PACI FI C I S S U E
58 AT THE FRONT
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Island identities
Meet the South Pacific islands featured in this issue, and determine which one is best for you based on their highlights and activities.
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06 Travel desk
All the latest travel news from the South Pacific: meet a Fijian Olympic gold medallist, and discover how to whale watch, hike and dive the islands.
09 Get social
We’ve chosen our favourite Instagram pics from the South Pacific tagged with #openmyworld. Share your photos with the hashtag to be featured!
10 Top 10
Find your favourite South Pacific island, whether you’re into history, diving, adventure or just white-sand beaches.
R EGU L AR S
90 Island highlights
Our Travel Experts give the inside word on some of the most popular South Pacific destinations, and what to see, do, eat and drink there.
92 The challenge
Want to do Fiji in luxury or are you on a budget? Do you have one or two weeks to explore Vanuatu? It’s all possible – our Travel Experts reveal how.
96 Travel clinic
Get the answers to some of the most frequently asked questions about travel in the South Pacific.
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welcome
share the love
hello
Front cover & contents photos: Getty Images and Alamy. Front cover image of cruising the Mediterranean around the Greek Islands.
WELCOME TO THE LATEST ISSUE OF TRAVEL IDEAS. WE’RE SETTING OUR CLOCKS TO ISLAND TIME AND HEADING TO THE SUN-DRENCHED SHORES OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC.
This stunning part of the world is the very definition of paradise, where palm trees tower over white-sand beaches and water sparkles in every shade of blue. It’s certainly one of our favourite regions, not just because it’s close to Australia, but due to that famous island hospitality and the incredible array of things to do – yes, there’s more to these islands than lazy days and poolside cocktails. We put the spotlight on the lesser-known side of Fiji; step off the sand in Vanuatu to explore volcanic landscapes and lush interiors; take a bite out of the flourishing food scenes of New Caledonia and the Cook Islands; and introduce the natural wonders of the Solomon Islands, Samoa and Tonga. We’ve got everything for an unforgettable island holiday sorted, from a who’s who in the South Pacific to a wealth of tips and tricks from our very own Travel Experts. Bula, kia orana, talofa leva and aloha. The South Pacific is calling. Tom Walley, E XECU TI VE G EN ER AL MANAG ER
READ MORE At Flight Centre, we’re always ready to offer advice for that next trip. Visit our online content hub to read stories of incredible adventures, luxurious cruises and out-of-this-world experiences. flightcentre.com.au/travel-news
e Read online, anytim SNAP IT We love seeing where in the world your travels take you. Simply snap your pics and share them on Instagram with the hashtag #openmyworld, and you could be featured in one of our upcoming issues.
DOWNLOAD IT The South Pacific edition of Travel ideas, as well as previous issues, is available to download from the Flight Centre website. Download past issues of the magazine at flightcentre.com.au/ travel-ideas.
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Travel ideas Travel ideas magazine is produced by Hardie Grant Media for Flight Centre.
FLIGHT CENTRE
HARDIE GRANT MEDIA
HEAD OF CREATIVE AND CONTENT Luke Wheatley
DEPUTY MANAGING DIRECTOR
SUB-EDITOR Ché-Marie Trigg
Clare Brundle
PROOFREADER Tiffany Eastland
EDITOR Anna Howard
PUBLISHER Alison Crocker
ART DIRECTOR Dan Morley
MANAGING EDITOR Mitch Brook
DESIGNER Luke Atkinson
EDITOR Tatyana Leonov
PRINTER Bluestar Web
While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information in this magazine, no responsibility can be accepted by the publisher for errors or omissions, and in particular no responsibility can be accepted for the quality of goods and services, including prices quoted or errors. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part, either electronically or conventionally, without written permission from the publisher and Flight Centre is strictly prohibited. All images supplied, unless otherwise stated. Tour itineraries, dates and availability can change. Talk to a Flight Centre Travel Expert for the latest options.
Travel ideas
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SOLOMON ISLANDS
Capital: Honiara
PA L A U
SOUTH PACIFIC EDITION
Island identities
The Solomons offer some of the world’s best diving, diverse and authentic cultural experiences, as well as stunning natural scenery and WWII sites.
south pacific islands may be small in size but they’re big on character. each has its own appeal; read on to find out which is right f or you
VANUATU
Capital: Port Vila See active volcanoes, blue waterholes, stunning waterfalls, and diving that defies expectations alongside unique living cultures.
Top 3 activities
1. Dive and snorkel 2. Visit a cultural village 3. See WWII battlefields and museums
MADANG
Top 3 activities
1. Visit Mount Yasur volcano 2. Swim in the Blue Holes and beaches 3. Immerse yourself in culture on a village visit
PA P U A NEW GUINEA 74
58 SOLOMON ISLANDS
VA N U AT U
NORFOLK ISLAND
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TA N N A PAPUA NEW GUINEA
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Capital: Port Moresby
NEW CALEDONIA
Capital: Noumea
Australia’s northern neighbour offers incredible trekking, diverse culture, top fishing experiences and some of the best diving around.
Top 3 activities
1. Walk the Kokoda Track 2. Fish for elusive black bass 3. Sail past Mount Tavurvur
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AUSTRALIA
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New Caledonia is close enough to Australia for a long weekend, with a wonderful mix of Melanesian and French cultures (and cuisine!).
Top 3 activities
1. Isle of Pines 2. Go on a self-drive holiday 3. Kayak, trek, cycle or run
NEW CALEDONIA
FIJI
Capital: Nadi Natural beauty combined with the friendliest population on the planet makes Fiji the ideal destination for any age, interest and budget.
Top 3 activities
1. Make use of kids clubs 2. Quad-bike to Sabeto Waterfalls 3. Sail to a private island
S O U T H PAC I F I C E D ITIO N
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SAMOA
Capital: Apia HAWAII
Samoa is a place where visitors can get back to basics, appreciate nature and learn about a culture as alive today as it was 3,000 years ago.
Capital: Honolulu
Hawaii’s fresh air Top 3 activities energises and its 1. Surf on Oahu’s natural beauty North Shore astounds. Each 2. See the active island offers a Kilauea volcano distinct experience, 3. Hike through breathtaking nature from volcanoes to romance.
H AWA I I
FRENCH POLYNESIA
Capital: Tahiti
The embodiment of the tropical island dream, French Polynesia is suspended like sandy jewels in the turquoise waters of the Pacific Ocean.
Top 3 activities
1. Explore the To Sua Ocean Trench 2. Discover local life at a Samoan village 3. See the Alofaaga Blowholes
Top 3 activities
1. Tour Tahiti on foot or by 4WD 2. Relax at a French Polynesian spa 3. Visit archaeological sites to find marae and tikis
COOK ISLANDS
Capital: Avarua 44 S AVA I ’ I
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SAMOA UPOLU
FIJI
The Cook Islands specialise in balmy beach days, sunsets and eternal summers, offering travellers an unforgettable tropical escape.
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Top 3 activities
NIUE ATATA ISLAND
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1. Take Pa’s Trek 2. Cruise around Aitutaki lagoon 3. Join a progressive dinner to try local flavours
TO N G A
MAP NOT TO SCALE
BORA BORA
TONGA
Capital: Nuku‘alofa
Since Captain Cook Top 3 activities pronounced Tonga 1. Explore lagoon the ‘Friendly Isles’, islands by sea kayak little has changed. 2. Lay out on a Beaches are private beach quiet, rainforests 3. Take a self-kart island safari unspoiled and tradition remains.
A I T U TA K I
FRENCH P O LY N E S I A
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EASTER ISLAND
R A ROTO N G A
COOK ISLANDS
Ancient traditions continue to thrive in the South Pacific
Travel ideas
NEWS & EVENTS
TRAVEL DESK Sit back and read up on the latest and hottest news fro m the South Pacific
Get to know
SEMI KUNATANI
Semi Kunatani is a Fijian rugby union player. He is currently playing in France with Stade Toulousain and was a key member of the Rio Olympic Fiji 7s team, who together won gold in 2016. I was born in Fiji and grew up in Naveyago Village, Naqalimare, Navosa. One of my fondest childhood memories is spending time with my mother Rusila Videi. She passed away when I was 15, so my memories of her are special. I’ve always looked up to my father because I respect and admire him for all he has done for me. He has been my biggest supporter and helped me achieve my goals. I got into rugby at age 13 and my aim was to never miss a tackle. From there I went on to play with Nadi rugby in 15s and Yamacia rugby in 7s, in which we won the Coral Coast 7s in 2013. I was then selected to make my debut for Fiji in Dubai 2013. Winning Fiji’s first gold medal as part of the Fiji 7s team in the 2016 Olympics was an honour and privilege. We set a team goal to win Fiji’s first Olympic gold and we were so proud to achieve this. My career allows me to travel often and one of my favourite places is Samoa
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because of the shared passion for rugby. I also really love New Zealand because of the rugby connection. Of course, Fiji is home and I love to just chill out with friends and family there. One of my favourite memories is when I returned home after the Olympics to visit my village. I took George Gregan and the Fox Sports team with me. We travelled up the river on the Sigatoka River Safari and when we arrived in Naveyago, my family welcomed us home. My next dream destination is Tahiti because I can use the French I have learnt in Toulouse. I’d also really like to visit Tonga and get among the interesting culture. Travelling all around the South Pacific is special because of the rich cultures and traditions that exist. We Pacific Islanders are happy to share our lives with visitors – this is what makes travelling in the islands so memorable.
Semi Kunatani was a part of the Fiji 7s team who won the country its first Olympic gold medal.
travel desk
Green utopia
There are many places to see whales in the South Pacific.
Words: Tatyana Leonov. Illustrations: Julia Murray. Photos: © iStock
Words: Tatyana Leonov and Milena Tsitovitch. Photos: Alamy, David Kirkland, The Fiji Times (Semi Kunatani)
Ecotourism is flourishing in the South Pacific – one of the main drawcards of this paradise is pristine natural environments. Papua New Guinea is an ecotourism hotspot, home to the birdlife-rich Wasur National Park; there are more than 300 volcanoes, towering mountains and lush rainforests in Samoa, making it one of the most diverse collections of ecosystems worldwide; indigenous eco village-based ventures are becoming popular all over, and there are some great experiences in the Solomon Islands. In Fiji, Turtle Island Resort has won a number of ecotourism awards; Likuliku Lagoon Resort has an active program to protect the Fiji crested iguana and is working to implement a preservation program. In the Cook Islands, the island of Atiu is the country’s first dedicated eco-island, a patch of paradise with eco-lodges, bird sanctuaries and stunning limestone caves.
WILDLIFE WATCH
One of the world’s great annual migrations sees humpback whales swim north from their winter feeding grounds of New Zealand to the warm, calm waters of the South Pacific. Tonga is one of the few places in the world where you can swim with whales. If you prefer touring above sea level, Happy Kingdom Holidays offers a full-day whale-watching escapade in Nuku‘alofa. There’s no need to go chasing whales in the open ocean – Buccaneer Adventures Niue Dive offers whale trips in the world’s largest coral atoll in Niue. In the Cook Islands, try the Rongohiva Water Sports’ whale watching and snorkelling tour – you might catch these grand creatures breaching. Or keep an eye out in Fiji for humpbacks on a Captain Cook Cruises Tivua Island cruise or a South Sea Cruises South Sea Island cruise.
LAST LAND FOR 2,688KM
LINE
The point on earth farthest from land is in the South Pacific, halfway between Pitcairn Islands and Antarctica, 2,688km from land. No tours yet, but we can dream.
ECOTOURISM BOOM
Whale trail
Record breakers
DAT E
The Cook Islands’ first dedicated eco island, Atiu.
The International Date Line runs through Fiji’s island of Taveuni, so you can stand with one foot in the present date, and the other in the previous date.Time travel, anyone?
A whopping 25 per cent of Hawaiian coral species are endemic to the area. Only isolated islands can claim such high restricted-range endemic species and Hawaii is one of the island groups with the most. Rooted in tradition, Ori Tahiti – also known as Tahitian dance, is characterised by soft movements. It’s no surprise everyone loves to get involved. On January 30, 2016 a total of 2,982 people performed the world’s largest Tahitian dance. The world’s largest lagoon is found in New Caledonia – a 24,000sqkm marine biodiversity home to thousands of fish and sea creature species. Understandably, the snorkelling and scuba diving opportunities here are fantastic.
You’re not from around here...
000,000 165, S
QK
M
Covering 165,000,000sqkm, the Pacific Ocean is larger than the entire surface of the Earth covered by land.
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travel desk
Peaks of Paradise
BEYOND WHITE SANDS AND BLUE ISLAND WATERS ARE LUSH HIKING TRAILS THAT OFFER SUPERB PERSPECTIVES OVER AUSTRALIA’S WORLD HERITAGE-LISTED SITES
01. Mount Gower, Lord Howe Island
An 875m peak at the southern end of Lord Howe Island, Mount Gower has an abundance of rare and unique flora and fauna. The challenging eight-hour trek up to the top is complete with 14km of rope-assisted climbs and dizzying heights across rugged terrain to enjoy unsurpassable views of Balls Pyramid, Mount Lidgbird, the lagoon, and the island’s northern settlement area.
02. Mount Pitt, Norfolk Island
A third of Norfolk Island is dedicated to national parks and reserves, with Mount Pitt the ideal starting point for bushwalking, mountain biking and bird watching. There are plenty of National Park walks, but Old Mountain Road is one of the best – a 540m ascent up Mount Pitt. The reward for your effort? Expansive beautiful views of the island and the sea.
03. Fitzroy Island, Great Barrier Reef
Being one of the most unspoiled islands in the Great Barrier Reef, Fitzroy Island features mangroves, open woodland, tropical pristine rainforest and coral beaches best experienced by a walking trail. The self-guided Summit Track to the top of the island is a great option. It begins at the jetty and winds through mountainous rainforest to expose a peak of the Coral Sea’s fringing reef formations.
Sunken Treasures
01. Espiritu Santo, Vanuatu
One of the world’s largest and most accessible wrecks just off the shore of Espiritu Santo, the SS President Coolidge was originally a luxury liner-turned troop carrier, and features jeeps, guns, gas masks, as well as a large stockpile of marine life. Dive into this Pacific paradise of warm tropical waters, where war equipment can be seen alongside turtles and luxurious chandeliers.
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02. Chuuk Lagoon, Federated States of Micronesia
The legacy of a ferocious World War II battle between the Japanese fleet and Allied air troops, Chuuk Lagoon (aka, Truk Lagoon) is an underwater museum of more than 100 ships, submarines and planes. The water is shallow and clear, so snorkellers and divers can explore the wrecks, which, thanks to time, are now also home to reefs and coral gardens.
03. Honiara, Solomon Islands
As a consequence of World War II, hundreds of ships and aircraft litter the ocean floor of the Solomon Islands and have formed spectacular artificial reefs that house a plethora of marine life and coral gardens. Divers can opt to dive off the shore or head out deeper in a boat, to wrecks including the Sasako Maru, B17 Bomber, and the deep and challenging USS Atlanta.
Words: Roderick Eime. Photos © Getty Images, iStock, Corbis
BENEATH THE TRANQUIL WATERS OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC LIES A PLETHORA OF HISTORICAL ARTEFACTS FROZEN IN TIME
#Lifou @simplycheecky
#CookIslands @seanscottphotography
#Samoa @helloemilie
#Vanuatu @leahwilsonphotography
#Oahu @paulyvella
#BoraBora @thesunkissedseeker
GET SOCIAL
#openmyworld
Travel is all about sharing amazing experiences, stories and journeys. From lush rainforest landscapes to stunning sundrenched beaches, here are some of our favourite photos captured by you from all around the South Pacific. Share your travel photos with us on Instagram with the hashtag #openmyworld and spread the love of exploration.
#Fiji @jolyonbird
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Travel ideas
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T TOP EN
SOUTH PACIFIC ISLANDS
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S O U T H P A C EI FXI PC E IRSI LE ANNC D ES
Snorkelling is incredibly popular in the waters around Palau – especially in Jellyfish Lake.
ROMANTIC BEACHES, HERITAGE AND CULTURE, WORLD-CLASS DIVING AND NATURAL WONDERS – WHATEVER YOUR PREFERENCE, THERE’S A SOUTH PACIFIC ISLAND FOR YOU Words: Paul Ewart
01 FIJI & PALAU
If you love…
Photo: Getty Images
BEQA LAGOON
Renowned as the ‘soft coral capital of the world’, this Fijian island boasts some of the best scuba diving in the country. Surrounded by more than 300km of spectacular coral – making it one of the largest barrier reefs on earth – its lagoon consists of clear, warm water with visibility of more than 30 metres. Many dive spots (there are more than 100 in total) are only a short boat ride from the shore. While there’s an array of marine life, the resident shark population is undoubtedly at the top of most divers’ to-see lists. At least eight different species of sharks, including tiger, nurse and bull, call the lagoon home.
Then try… PALAU
A chain of some 500 islands in the western Pacific, Palau is recognised by divers-inthe-know as one of the best areas to scuba, thanks to three currents converging in its waters, bringing together some of the most varied aquatic life in the ocean. Several of Palau’s most popular dive sites are situated around the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Rock Islands (445 sheer limestone islands that dot more than 100,000ha of surrounding waters), including Blue Corner, where feeding sharks, eagle rays and turtles are all part of the underwater show. Wreckdiving enthusiasts will also be sated, as innumerable wrecks litter the sea floor. And while scuba is undoubtedly the main drawcard here, you can’t leave without donning snorkel gear and exploring Palau’s famed Jellyfish Lake. Unique to the area, a lack of predators has resulted in the resident jellyfish population evolving to the point of having no ability to sting. Taking the plunge with millions of these pulsating, soft-bodied creatures is an extraordinary experience. Travel ideas
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T OP T E N
02 FRENCH POLYNESIA & COOK ISLANDS
If you love… BORA BORA
Referred to as the ‘Pearl of the Pacific’ by James Cook, Bora Bora is at the top of many visitors’ South Pacific hit lists. Known for its luxurious resorts and overwater bungalows, this French Polynesian gem is all pretty lagoons and azure waters – little wonder it’s a beacon for honeymooners.
Then try… AITUTAKI
Infinitely less touristy than Bora Bora, the Cook Islands’ Aitutaki looks across what is billed as the most beautiful lagoon in the world – how’s that for an accolade? Check in to the plush Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa – the only upmarket hotel that looks over the lagoon’s dreamy waters – and spend lazy days soaking in the view from one of the hammocks strung up between palm trees. Action on this romance-sodden isle primarily involves doing, well, nothing, but when you’re looking for more than serenity, you can go on an organised fishing or scuba trip, or take one of the many cruises that explore the lagoon’s magical sandy islets. Whatever you do, the island’s mash-up of romance, beauty and luxury is a winning combination.
Relax in the natural, uncluttered surrounds of Aitutaki in the Cook Islands.
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S O U T H PAC I F I C I S L A N D S
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Want a stretch all to yourself ? Deserted beaches aren’t hard to find on Norfolk Island.
COOK ISLANDS & AUSTRALIA
If you love…
RAROTONGA
Even after European settlement in the 19th century, this Cook Islands hub has successfully retained its Polynesian heritage. Today, there are no traffic lights, no McDonald’s and no buildings taller than a coconut tree. Indeed, indigenous culture is celebrated everywhere through dance, music, art, and festivals commemorating the region’s colourful past. The purpose-built Te Vara Nui cultural village is the best place for visitors to glean an understanding of this local culture.
Then try…
NORFOLK ISLAND
Located between Australia, New Zealand and New Caledonia, this tiny Australian island is brimming with history. Settled by the Polynesians, it was discovered by Captain Cook in 1774, and populated by the British in 1788. As a penal colony it would go on to be known as, ‘Hell of the Pacific’. You can learn about its past at convict-era buildings in the World Heritage-listed Kingston and Arthurs Vale Historic Area. Among the standing structures and archaeological sites on the island there are four museums that tell the story of its past and today’s local culture.
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VANUATU & PAPUA NEW GUINEA
If you love…
PORT VILA
Vanuatu’s capital and largest town, Port Vila, is an easy jumping-off point to a series of surrounding lagoons, beaches and offshore islands. It’s from this lively city that countless adventure tours and activities depart, from deep-sea fishing and diving, to jetskiing and parasailing. For one of the island’s most memorable adventures, trek through a coconut plantation to the massive waterfall- and bat-filled Millennium Cave.
Then try… MADANG
Madang offers some of the best diving in Papua New Guinea.
Backed by steep mountains, offshore volcanic islands and lush tropical vegetation, Papua New Guinea’s Madang is an adventure-lover’s paradise. It looks across a spread of idyllic islands, and its reef-fringed lowlands make it one of the most popular diving spots in the country. Colourful coral gardens, superb visibility and an abundance of wreck dives lure divers from all over the world. If you only do one dive, make it Planet Rock – an underwater mountain with a resident population of curious hammerhead sharks. There’s also great snorkelling to enjoy, as well as fishing and parasailing. Landlubbers are well catered for, too, with hikes up an active volcano, rainforests to explore and off-road excursions. Travel ideas
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EASTER ISLAND & KIRIBATI
If you love…
EASTER ISLAND
Though technically part of Chile, this volcanic island in Polynesia is South Pacific through and through. Famed for its archaeological artefacts – around 900 mysterious giant soberfaced stone statues called ‘moai’ that dominate the landscape – this tiny speck of land is one of the most isolated places on Earth.
Then try…
MALDEN ISLAND
Equally remote, and equally mysterious, Kiribati’s Malden Island is a lesser-known South Pacific archaeological trove. Positioned right in the centre of the Pacific Ocean, the barren islet (its native islanders left before it was discovered by European explorers in the early 1800s) contains an assortment of ancient stone structures. You’ll find platforms, houses, graves, step-pyramid temples and a network of basalt-slab pathways that cross the island and lead into the surrounding ocean. Just like the Easter Island statues, no one knows who built them or why they exist. As hard as archaeologists try to unearth the truth, it remains a mystery.
Tombs from an earlier civilisation on Malden Island in Kiribati.
Surf’s up off the coast of Upolu in Samoa.
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S O U T H PAC I F I C I S L A N D S
06 HAWAII & SAMOA
If you love…
NORTH SHORE, OAHU
The stretch of Hawaiian coastline located on the north side of Oahu attracts breakhungry surfers from all over the world. A capital for big-wave surfing since the 1950s, it’s home to about 40 breaks. North Shore’s Ehukai Beach (also known as the ‘Banzai Pipeline’) is the area’s most notable surfing spot. If you’re more comfortable watching the professionals do their thing, then make a note in your travel diary to hit the island from November to December, when the North Shore hosts the world-renowned Triple Crown of Surfing competition series.
Then try…
Photos: Alamy, Getty
UPOLU
For similarly awesome reef breaks – without the crowds – Samoa’s Upolu should be on your radar. The country’s main surfing destination, this wave mecca is entirely surrounded by coral reef, onto which ocean swells break. The surf is seriously diverse, and unlike Oahu where good swell occurs only in the winter, in Upolu you can surf year-round. Most hotels and surf camps are on the south coast, where the most consistent waves break. Beginners looking to hang 10 should be cautious: the breaks err on the dangerous side, and even experienced surfers should only tackle waves after chatting with locals in the know. Travel ideas
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T OP T E N
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PAPEETE
FRENCH POLYNESIA & NIUE
If you love…
The French Polynesian capital on the island of Tahiti might be the cultural and economic heart of the archipelago, but that has done nothing to lessen the natural beauty of the place. Crowned by majestic peaks, and covered with dense rainforest, waterfalls and lagoons, it’s easy to see where the nickname ‘The Island of Love’ originated. Still
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underrated by travellers, Tahiti receives the same number of tourists in one year as Hawaii gets in just 12 days.
Then try… NIUE
Where to start on this paradise island gem? Untouched by development, at just 260sq km, Niue (which means ‘behold the coconut’) is the world’s smallest independent nation. And, though small in size, it packs one hell of a punch. With fewer than 1,600 residents and
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just 123km of paved roads, there’s no tacky commercial tourism, no crowds, no noise, no traffic, no shopping centres and barely any crime. Affectionately known as ‘The Rock’ by its inhabitants, visitors will be wowed by Niue’s crystal clear waters, and its reefs, caves, coves, humpback whales (during migration season, from July to October) and almost 983ha of rainforest. The island’s isolation means that you can explore its natural wonders with barely another soul in sight.
NEW CALEDONIA & SOLOMON ISLANDS
If you love…
NOUMEA
The capital and largest city in New Caledonia, Noumea is a blend of French and indigenous Kanak influences. A French penal colony in the 1800s, nowadays this colonial influence seamlessly coexists with traditional tribal life. Visitors can get their culture fix via the Noumea City Museum’s collection of Pacific artefacts, while just out of town, the Jean-Marie Tjibaou Cultural Centre exhibits relics from around the region.
Then try…
SOLOMON ISLANDS
Traditional panpipe melodies are the soundtrack to your Solomons stay.
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Also blending traditional tribal culture and European colonialism, the Solomon Islands are a bona fide cultural melting pot. Positioned to the east of Papua New Guinea, the 992 islands are populated by three of Oceania’s main cultural groups – Melanesian, Polynesian and Micronesian – which combine to create the country’s unique identity. Throughout the islands, kastom (a Pijin term derived from ‘custom’) is at the core of local life. This ethos sees ancient beliefs and clan practices remaining strong to this day; village life remains much as it has for centuries, including its traditional bartering systems and the production of cultural items, such as the famed bamboo panpipe. The curious can pay a visit to the macabre Kundu Hite, or ‘Skull Island’, a sacred place populated by shrines filled with the skulls of vanquished enemies. History buffs might also be keen on the World War II wreckages that are still scattered throughout the islands. Guadalcanal, in particular, is known for its numerous wreck sites, both on land and in the surrounding sea.
Photos: Getty
S O U T H PAC I F I C I S L A N D S
The wild, untamed coastal scenery in the tiny island nation of Niue.
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T OP T E N
The tiny Tongan island of Atata.
If you love…
CASTAWAY ISLAND
One of the most popular resorts in Fiji, this family-friendly resort is situated just 30km off Fiji’s main island, Viti Levu. Part of the Mamanuca Island group, Castaway’s free kids club has ample activities to try out, from sandcastlebuilding competitions to coconut hunting, guaranteed to keep the little ones entertained. The return rate is high here (around 44 per cent), so they must be doing something right.
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Then try…
ATATA ISLAND
Situated just east of the International Date Line, locals say time begins in Tonga. Time is certainly warped here into a more relaxed pace, as you’ll find if you visit Atata Island. A tiny speck of land, with only a traditional village and the laidback Royal Sunset Resort, Atata appeals to both serenity-seekers and families with a craving for adventure. Bask in the sun by the pool or on the beach, or enrol in scuba diving, game fishing, kayaking, kneeboarding, beach volleyball, tennis and windsurfing. The resort also runs free daily village trips for a brush with local life.
The landscape of Savai’i was formed by centuries of volcanic activity.
Photos: Alamy, Getty
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S O U T H PAC I F I C I S L A N D S
10 VANUATU & SAMOA
If you love… TANNA
Rich in natural wonders, Vanuatu’s Tanna is a medley of stunning waterfalls, underwater caves, ancient rainforests and pristine beaches. Take a 4WD trip up the fiery Mount Yasur – one of the world’s most accessible active volcanoes – to see a magnificent lava display.
Then try… SAVAI’I
With lush tropical vegetation, rainforests, secluded beaches, blue lagoons, waterfalls and mountainous interior, most of Savai’i remains uninhabited, which means that its natural beauty has been retained. There’s enough flora and fauna here to keep even the most hardcore naturelover satisfied. Hike up mountains, visit remote coves, spot native wildlife, and plunge into aquamarine waters to snorkel with colourful marine life. The landscape of Samoa’s largest island has largely been defined by centuries of volcanic activity and, with this in mind, arguably the greatest attraction is its lava tubes. Extending for kilometres underground, hire a car (the island’s circumference is only 190km, so you can easily drive around it in one day) and check out some of the best, including Dwarfs Cave and Pe’ape’a Cave, where you can see white-rumped Polynesian swiftlet birds up close.
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Sink into the warm SEEK HAPPINESS waters surrounding Huahine Island.
The
forgotten islands
SOME OF FRENCH POLYNESIA’S BEST ISLANDS ARE COMPLETE SECRETS, AND THEY’RE NOT FAR FROM TAHITI Words: Craig Tansley
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Photo: Getty
F R E N C H P O LY N E S I A
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r er clea v o p u Wake ific waters Pac
Maurice looks across his backyard, past the swaying coconut trees, past the pink and white frangipani trees, out past his neighbour’s pearl farm to a tiny island in a lagoon that might be the prettiest in French Polynesia. That island could have belonged to movie star, Kurt Russell. But when Kurt came looking to buy an island on Taha’a, the locals weren’t used to Hollywood types with bulging pockets of money like they are on Bora Bora. Taha’a may well be just about 28km from the most famous island in all of Polynesia, Bora Bora, but around here, most locals still farm their land for food or fish for their dinners. And so Kurt Russell’s money was as good as useless to them, and Taha’a has no resident A-listers. “There are no movie stars on Taha’a,” Maurice says ruefully. “They all stay on Bora Bora. Kurt Russell will not be my neighbour.”
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About 80 per cent of travellers who visit French Polynesia will go to Bora Bora, Tahiti (the most populated island of the group), and Moorea, an island just 17km from Tahiti. The rush to get to these islands doesn’t generally allow for stoppages; but I wonder if travellers even stop for a moment to think about the pretty islands twinkling below them in the sunshine on the flight across to Bora Bora, located in the Society Islands’ north-western corner. French Polynesia is made up of 118 islands (67 inhabited), of which Tahiti, Moorea and Bora Bora receive all but a few thousand visitors a year. To reach many of these islands sometimes requires pricey, timeconsuming effort. But that’s not the case in French Polynesia’s easy-to-access Society Islands, located just a short distance west from Tahiti, and serviced regularly by Tahiti’s national airline.
There are islands here that no one’s ever heard of, even the most seasoned of all South Seas travellers – islands like Taha’a, Huahine and Raiatea. And yet these are the islands of your Polynesian fantasies – 2km-high forested mountains plunge into warm, blue lagoons; tattooed locals fish for wahoo and mahi mahi in outrigger canoes; and throughout everything, the smell of sweet tiare flower wafts on a warm salty breeze. How they remain a virtual secret – in this age of information where every nook and cranny of our globe has been blogged, Instagrammed and Facebooked – is beyond me. But then, I only discovered them myself quite by chance. I’d heard tales about Huahine from a local in a bar in Papeete, the French Polynesian capital on Tahiti, and so I’d arranged a night on the island on my way to Bora Bora. I rented a scooter
F R E N C H P O LY N E S I A
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT Locals in French Polynesia are happy to share their culture; overwater bungalows were invented in Raiatea; delight in fresh seafood on Huahine; clear waters and skies surround Huahine.
Photos: Getty Images; Tim McKenna
There are islands here that no one’s ever heard of, even the most seasoned of all South Seas travellers – islands like Taha’a and Huahine.” and explored the island. Twin islands in a huge lagoon joined together by a bridge, off which tiny children jumped into impossibly blue water. There was a small collection of tastefully designed cafes and bars by the water’s edge – at any of them I could order fresh seafood for a very low price. In Huahine’s tiny main town, I drank cold Hinano beer at the archetypal South Seas sunset bar – it could’ve been lifted out of the pages of a Somerset Maugham novel. There were few cars to share the roads with; I saw barely any sign of visitors at
all, except two American surfers who’d stumbled on to one of the best surfing setups in the Pacific (a perfect wave broke both sides of the reef pass straight out in front of a bar). Eight years on, I’ve returned four times to Huahine and it’s still just as undiscovered today. Like Taha’a, Huahine encapsulates everything good about French Polynesia. And yet it requires no long journey by supply ship or propeller plane to French Polynesia’s remotest archipelagoes – it’s just a 45-minute flight from Papeete.
There is one fancy hotel on Huahine, and even though it offers that most cherished of South Seas offerings – the overwater bungalow (which, incidentally, was invented nearby on the island of Raiatea), it’s a subtler kind of luxury on offer at the Royal Huahine resort. For one, you can’t see it from land; a boat takes you round a secluded headland to a resort built far away from everything. But that’s how most things are on the secret Society Islands of Huahine, Taha’a and Raiatea. On Taha’a there’s one 5-star retreat on its own tiny Travel ideas
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Taha’a is one of several islands less frequently visited by tourists, which gives it an air of relaxed freedom.
I love the fact that these islands still seem to belong to a much simpler time in French Polynesia.�
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F R E N C H P O LY N E S I A
island that has attracted Hollywood’s fanciest – but the outside deck of Taha’a Private Island Resort’s restaurant is built inside a gigantic fig tree and much of the resort isn’t visible even from close range – it’s tucked away, a secret to all but those who stay there. I love the fact that these islands still seem to belong to a much simpler time in French Polynesia. On many parts of Taha’a there’s not even a grocery store; locals tie a strip of cloth to a tree outside their house so the twice-weekly grocery truck knows to stop. On Taha’a, it’s the island’s high quality vanilla beans who receive the massaging from locals, not tourists (the vanilla beans require a daily gentle massage to be the world’s best). The sweet odour wafts at all times through the air. It seems on Taha’a everyone is known by what they do best. Big Leo, who I meet one day brandishing a razor-sharp machete on his family’s coconut plantation, is famous for his ability to catch mahi mahi, Polynesia’s most prized game fish. On a good day, Leo can bring in 50 15kg fish. Thierry, meanwhile, who I meet by a pearl farm, is the ‘Taha’a turtle’. He’s unloading enormous, clay-coloured sea cucumbers from his tiny aluminium runabout when
I see him. He can hold his breath for 10 minutes at a time. At night, there’s little to do but share drinks with locals at one of two main public bars on Taha’a (there are more on the island’s resorts, but these are mostly out on the motu – the smaller islands). But it’s always the hour before dusk that’s my favourite time. Beside the huge lagoon, locals play the French game of petanque, while children ride past on bicycles laden with enormous loaves of freshly baked baguettes. Somewhere, not far from here, a dance troupe practise their moves to a frenzied island drum beat. I can see Bora Bora from where I sit at sunset and can imagine honeymooners getting ready for fivecourse meals in romantic restaurants, but I’m happy in these secret Society Islands, finding a Polynesian hideaway no one will uncover any time soon.
Find your piece of paradise
Visit your local Flight Centre for more advice about travelling to and exploring French Polynesia. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.
Raiatea is the secondlargest of the country’s Society Islands.
Three more island secrets in French Polynesia
While they require much longer flights than to Taha’a, Huahine and Raiatea, the trip is worth it to these three other secret island paradises in French Polynesia. 1. The Marquesas Accessible by daily flights or by supply ship, the Marquesas are the world’s most remote island archipelago and are home to just 10,000 people in a land that is so dramatic, it can be likened to Spielberg’s The Lost World.
Photos: Tahiti Tourism; Alamy; iStock
2. The Gambiers They’re 1,650km away from Tahiti, but the Gambiers are that place you imagined – hardy, Polynesian-speaking locals fishing one of the world’s largest lagoons among a landscape of nearly 200-year-old French Catholic rambling churches. There’s just one flight in per week.
3. The Tuamotus While they’re closer to Tahiti than the Marquesas and the Gambiers, the Tuomotus are no less spectacular. While some are relatively easy to access (such as Rangiroa), others require more effort to reach hidden destinations where few outsiders tread. They’re home to some of the world’s best diving, snorkelling and fishing (and surfing, if you’re game).
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O FO
D SAFAR
I
Perfectly cooked WHEN YOU’VE SATISFIED YOUR APPETITE FOR SUN, SAND AND PALM TREES, GET READY TO FEAST ON THE COOK ISLANDS’ SIMMERING FOOD SCENE Words: Penny Carroll
One glimpse of the turquoise, palm-fringed lagoons of the Cook Islands and you’ll be craving a hammock and a fresh young coconut. But, when your stomach inevitably begins to rumble, you’ll find a buffet of exciting food experiences waiting beyond the pristine beaches. The Cook Islands might not be a hotspot for molecular gastronomy or deconstructed lattes, but it serves up something far more satisfying: the freshest of everything. Whether it’s justcaught tuna simply grilled or fragrant fruit blended into a morning pick-me-up, incredible produce is the star player on every plate.
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Reflecting the abundance of its warm, sheltered waters and rich, volcanic soil, generosity is also key in Cook Islands cuisine – as the locals say, you won’t go home hungry here. But it’s not all about hearty home cooking – within the islands’ luxe resorts are refined restaurants headed up by adventurous chefs inspired by the exotic bounty in their kitchen gardens, while passionate locals are reinventing the foodscape with on-trend cafes and hands-on tours. Whatever your tastes, you’re in for a delicious journey. Here are three ways to get your fill.
C L O C KW I S E FROM OPPOSITE
Photos: Cook Islands Tourism; Pacific Resort; Penny Carroll; iStock
Tupunas Restaurant at Aitutaki is an intimate restaurant serving up delicious chilli mud crab. A typically delicious spread of fresh seafood at Pacific Resort, Aitutaki. Ika mata, a local specialty, consists of raw fish salad with coconut. Pacific Resort oers luxury accommodation as well as dining with a beautiful view. The Mooring Fish Cafe oers the freshest seafood cooked up into sandwiches and salads. Indulge with a fresh coconut beside beautiful Aitutaki Lagoon.
LOCAL HEROES
Taro, maniota, rukau, ika mata: you’ll learn these words quickly, because they’re on every menu in the Cook Islands. Taro and maniota (arrowroot) are versatile root vegetables; rukau, a tropical riff on creamed spinach made with young taro leaves and coconut milk, is an earthy side to grilled fish and meat; and ika mata, a dice of raw tuna cured in lime juice and coconut milk, is just the kind of refreshing dish you’ll want after a day snorkelling lagoons. Every Cook Islands cook makes their own signature ika mata, so it’s worth repeat ordering this specialty to find your favourite. The best version, however, may not come from a restaurant but a humble family kitchen. To hunt it down, try the Progressive Dinner Tour, which takes visitors into three Rarotongan homes for a typical meal served with local hospitality. Each course is at a different table, but you’re guaranteed the classics no matter who’s hosting: tangy ika mata drenched in freshly squeezed coconut cream; crispy chicken and grilled tuna alongside rich rukau and crunchy taro fries; and tooth-achingly sweet pavlova with coconut cream-spiked coffee to finish. MasterChef, eat your heart out.
EXTRA HELPINGS
The Mooring Fish Cafe at Avana Harbour, Rarotonga has first dibs on the catch of the day. Try the famous FOB – a huge sandwich stuffed with a crumbed ‘fresh off the boat’ mahi mahi fillet. Four nights per week, the Muri Night Market serves up street food, island-style – think roast meats, zingy fish curries and tropical fruit smoothies. Tour the Matutu Brewing Company, the Cook Islands’ only brewery, for tastings and to see how the beer is made.
TRADITIONAL FLAVOURS
Hungry for a more hands-on experience? On the tiny island of Aitutaki, a short flight from Rarotonga, you can take a trip back to ancient Polynesia via your taste buds. The Punarei Cultural Tour aims to recreate life before missionaries came to the Cook Islands in 1821, so visitors are put straight to work in the replica village. You’ll help make an umu (earth oven), covering the hot basalt rocks with hibiscus leaves, banana stems and a feast of chicken, vegetables, fruit and fish. While lunch slow-cooks in the ground, you’ll weave your own plate from coconut fronds and learn about the fruit, vegetables and herbs that were – and still are – crucial in the Polynesian diet. When the umu is ready, layers of woven mats and leaves are carefully removed, releasing a delicious aroma and revealing hunks of juicy meat, tender
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FOOD SAFARI
FINE DINING
pumpkin, doughy breadfruit and sweet plantain. Teamed with a young coconut sipped straight from the husk, this might just be the best meal you’ll have in the Cook Islands.
Photos: Nautilus; Pacific Resort; Penny Carroll; iStock
EXTRA HELPINGS
Te Vara Nui cultural village and Highland Paradise, both on Rarotonga, combine an educational village tour with an extravagant performance and a huge island-style buffet dinner – a fun way for families to learn about Cook Islands culture. Cook Islanders are expert fishermen and they’re happy to share their knowledge. Get on board one of the local fishing charters to hook or even spear your own tuna, marlin or mahi mahi. Learn about the healing powers of plants from a real medicine man on a jungle hike with Pa’s Treks.
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Rapae Bay Restaurant at Pacific Resort, Aitutaki; service with a smile at Nautilus; seafood dining options at Rapae; a Cook Islander prepares the umu, or earth oven, heating the rocks underground; the FOB sandwich at Mooring Fish Cafe.
A ‘no building taller than a coconut tree’ mandate keeps the Cook Islands’ luxe resorts pleasingly low-level, but it hasn’t stopped their fine-dining restaurants from shooting for the stars. Leading the charge is Nautilus, a boutique eco resort with a garden theme that extends to its spa treatments, guest perks, and of course, the chic beachfront eatery. Named Rarotonga’s ‘restaurant of the year’ within 12 months of opening, Nautilus Restaurant gives familiar seasonal ingredients a sophisticated spin – coconut and vanilla sauce is drizzled over pan-fried fish; rukau is stuffed into pillowy agnolotti pasta and topped with peppery pawpaw cream; and sugarcane grown on site sweetens the house-made mojitos. EXTRA HELPINGS
Time dinner with the sunset to make the most of Rapae Bay Restaurant at Pacific Resort Aitutaki’s breathtaking location. It’s not just for show – the polished Pacific-fusion menu showcasing local seafood lives up to the 5-star views. The intimate Tupuna’s Restaurant in Aitutaki might just be the island’s bestkept secret. Expect to be wowed by the chilli mud crab and seafood chowder. Got yourself a villa and want to dine in? Gourmet hampers from Deli Foods in Rarotonga will keep you well fed, whether you’re after a breakfast spread of freshly baked croissants or a full degustation dinner.
Hungry for more?
Visit your local Flight Centre for more advice on gourmet travel and the latest deals to get to the Cook Islands. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.
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THE REAL
Fiji
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PREPARE FOR WONDERMENT UNDER THE SURFACE OF THIS POPULAR PIECE OF THE PACIFIC Words: Sheriden Rhodes
FIJI
on some of the world’s most pristine reefs. Beyond the main resort-rich island of Fiji’s Viti Levu lies a string of remote, pristine and little-explored islands, atolls and islets. From the little-known islands of the north to the country’s south – home to the beaches of the Coral Coast – lies the real Fiji. You just need to get out and find it.
Photo: Matangi Private Island Resort
Think you know Fiji? Many travellers return again and again to Fiji’s 330 idyllic islands, but few venture further than the infinity pool and resort confines. Those, however, who veer off the well-travelled tourist trail are rewarded with rich encounters with welcoming locals, rides down gushing waterfalls, and snorkelling
Breathtaking views of the ocean from the Matangi ridge-top hiking trail.
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FIJI
Empty beaches & emerald waters
To the north of the famous Mamanuca Island group, long favoured by Australians for its string of tropical resorts, are the remote and pristine Yasawa Islands. Here lie some 20 volcanic islands, which tumble down to white-sand beaches lapped by water the colour of emeralds. The unspoiled islands that make up the archipelago are dotted with resorts, ranging from high-end to backpacker-friendly stays. These include the Sacred Islands, where Fiji’s ancestors are believed to have first set foot, Nanuya Levu, where they filmed the 1980 movie Blue Lagoon, as well as Naviti and Drawaqa Island. Yasawa, the largest and farthest-flung island in the group, is home to the exclusive
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Yasawa Island Resort & Spa. Hidden among the palms on a stretch of pristine beach, facing west towards the setting sun, the luxurious 18-bure resort is located on one of the most remote and untouched isles of Fiji. Throughout the Yasawa Islands it’s easy to find a secluded beach all to yourself. You can visit small villages and local schools, and even swim through hidden chambers in Sawa-i-Lau’s cathedral-like caves (where Brooke Shields and Christopher Atkins were filmed for Blue Lagoon). Cruise companies Blue Lagoon and Captain Cook get up close to islands and superb stretches of untouched beach where yours may be the only footprints. Blue Lagoon’s ship Fiji Princess even famously ties up to a coconut tree at its anchorage off its own private beach on nearby Nanuya Lailai Island.
Hidden paradise
The raw beauty and genuine warmth of the local people encapsulates Fiji’s north. Here lie Vanua Levu and Taveuni, respectively Fiji’s second- and third-largest islands, along with Qamea, Matangi, Kioa, and dozens of outer islands. The more remote and less populated the islands become, the more the local people are in touch with their traditional roots. On the volcanic island of Rabi (pronounced ‘Rumbi’), the Micronesian population speaks their own language and has their own unique culture that includes elaborate dances. The islanders’ dancing features bird-like movements and emotive styles – some dances tell a story, and can be accompanied by a choir, guitar or the rhythmic beating of a drum.
FIJI
Photos: Yasawa Island Resort & Spa; Qamea Resort, Getty Images; Matangi Private Island Resort
CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: An aerial view of snorkellers off Yasawa Island Resort & Spa; one of Yasawa Island Resort & Spa’s unique water-based activities is an excursion to Blue Lagoon; Qamea Resort & Spa; Rainbow Reef; gourmet dining at Matangi Private Island Resort; a split-level treehouse at the Matangi Private Island Resort.
The north is home to abundant natural offerings, both underwater and on land, where it’s possible to snorkel and dive pristine sites such as Rainbow Reef, within the Somosomo Straits, plus The Great White Wall and other sites comprising what worldrenowned explorer Jean-Michel Cousteau dubbed ‘the soft-coral capital of the world’. Qamea, just off Taveuni, and predominantly covered in dense jungle, is home to luxury couples’ resort Qamea. Just offshore, the famous Piano Reef stuns with its beautiful hard corals. Likewise, Matangi Island, 20 minutes by boat from Taveuni, is home to a boutique adults-only resort. On Matangi, guests can stay in charming treehouses, and spend their days snorkelling, diving and enjoying heavenly treatments in the waterfront spa.
On the lush island of Taveuni, aptly nicknamed Fiji’s ‘Garden Island’, you can slide down a gushing waterfall, and stand on the spot where, had it not been diverted around Fiji, the International Dateline would have divided the island into separate hemispheres with different dates. Over on Fiji’s second-biggest island, Vanua Levu, is the charming harbourside town of Savusavu, known as the ‘hidden paradise’, and one of the country’s best-kept secrets. Here, you can snorkel Split Rock with hundreds of curious soldierfish, and visit the local farmers market, where you can buy everything from fresh fish and lobster to kava and Indian spices. J. Hunter Pearls, the largest producer of Fiji’s stunning black pearls, grown in the warm, pristine waters of Savusavu Bay, is also here.
Enjoy a delicious spicy fish curry served up with an ice-cold beer on the deck of the Surf ’n’ Turf restaurant, or head to the famous Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort for what are possibly the best cucumber martinis in the South Pacific. Its multi award-winning kids club, Bula Club, is said to be the Pacific’s best, with a personal nanny service for every child five and under, and ‘buddies’ assigned to care for older kids and tweens. For curious young ones, there’s a also full-time marine biologist who is employed at the resort to teach kids about the fascinating underwater world that surrounds Fiji. East of Savusavu you can explore the mangroves of the undeveloped tidal Salt Lake under your own steam on a stand-up paddleboard or in a kayak. Travel ideas
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FIJI
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT See fire-walkers on Beqa Island; children can be rocked to sleep in hammocks slung between coconut trees; Toberua Island Resort off the southeast coast; most Fiji resorts are suitable for families; a red-footed booby on Mabualau Island; Beqa Lagoon marine reserve offers a renowned shark dive.
Fire-walkers, shark dives & stepping back in time
The southeast coast of Viti Levu is home to capital Suva, Pacific Harbour (Fiji’s ‘adventure capital’) as well as the outer islands of Beqa, Toberua and Kadavu. The 5-star Royal Davui Island Resort and Beqa (pronounced ‘Ben-ga’) Island lie off Pacific Harbour. On Beqa Island you can hike and marvel at the famous Beqa fire-walkers, while the Beqa Lagoon marine reserve offers a renowned shark dive where you can see up to eight species of sharks. To the east of Viti Levu, on the island of Ovalau, you’ll find Fiji’s original colonial capital Levuka. Once an important trading post, the UNESCO World Heritage-listed town offers a trip back in time with its historic shopfronts, colonial-style buildings
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and churches. You can stay at simple homestays to get a feel for the Fiji of old. In the Kadavu Group is Fiji’s fourthlargest island, Kadavu, surrounded by the Great Astrolabe Reef. This is one of the world’s largest barrier reefs, and a rich breeding ground for marlin, sharks, tuna, giant trevally, mahi mahi (dolphinfish) and snapper – it’s one of Fiji’s best diving spots. The charming Toberua Island Resort, located off the southeast coast, near Suva’s Nausouri Airport, offers a low-key, familyfriendly stay. Guests can go on snorkelling and diving trips to various sites, including Cakautabu (Sacred Reef), Shark Reef, Stairway to Heaven and Magic Reef. Toberua (pronounced ‘Tom-ba-rua’) also runs a wonderful mangrove kayaking tour, as well as a boat trip to nearby Mabualau
Island (Bird Island), a sanctuary for the red-footed booby, noddys, crested terns, the delicate black-naped tern, reef herons, frigates and docile sea snakes. As you circle the island by boat, the birds soar on the swirling air currents. Culture, nature, some of the most beautiful beaches and reefs in the world, and the warmest of welcomes await when you get out and explore.
Fiji for families
Many of Fiji’s resorts are geared for the family market. Expect terrific (complimentary) kids clubs, family activities, and plenty of fun watersports. The JeanMichel Cousteau Resort is home to the award-winning Bula Club, Malolo Island Resort has Tia’s Treehouse – one of the
Photo © Chris McLennan, Castaway Island, Toberua Island Resort, Tourism Fiji, Alamy
FIJI
Culture, nature, beautiful beaches and reefs, and the warmest of welcomes await.” best-designed and run kids clubs in Fiji (complimentary for kids aged four to 12), the Shangri-La Fijian Resort and Spa has the excellent Little Chief’s Club, while Castaway Island Fiji’s kids club focuses on getting into nature. If you’re travelling with babies and toddlers, nannies and babysitters are available (complimentary, or at hourly rates, dependent on the resort) to look after your child, and even rock them to sleep in hammocks slung between coconut trees. Malolo Island Resort,
Castaway Island Fiji and Plantation Island Resort all offer this service; the Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort offers its Meimei nanny service for babies six months and older; and the Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort offers a complimentary full-time nanny for children five years and under (including babies). Adventurous kids can ride bilibili rafts, explore caves and go quad biking to Sabeto Hot Springs. At Sigatoka, kids can explore the remains of a fortified village at the Tavuni Hill Fort, meet wildlife,
including iguanas, native birds and turtles at Kula Eco Park, or go sandboarding on the Sigatoka Sand Dunes. Its reputation for great soft coral is spot on, and Fiji is a great place for kids to learn to scuba dive. Many resorts offer Padi dive courses and experiences for kids 10 years and over, while children as young as eight years can have fun learning bubblemaking in the pool. Littlies old enough to swim can get started with snorkelling.
Discover the wonders of Fiji
Visit your local Flight Centre for more advice from our Travel Experts about getting to and exploring Fiji. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.
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Island DREAMING FUN FAMILY ADVENTURES, CULTURAL EXPERIENCES APLENTY, WINING AND DINING UNTIL YOU CAN’T FIT ANYMORE IN… VANUATU IS AS WELL-ROUNDED AS HOLIDAY DESTINATIONS COME
Vanuatu is an archipelago nation of 83 islands where a vibrant culture thrives as vividly as the country’s spectacular reefs. Espiritu Santo is the largest island, and it’s graced with Vanuatu’s famous ‘blue holes’. The main island of Efate is home to the busy capital Port Vila, while further south lies Tanna, where visitors can perch on the side of a live volcano. In Vanuatu, you can chase adventure and experience an enchantingly rich culture – plus, it’s only a few hours’ flight from Sydney or Brisbane. As a couple and as a family, we’ve travelled to Vanuatu four times, and every trip has been an experience filled with exciting adventures. Here are some of our favourites...
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Photo: Hawaii Tourism Authority
Words: Michelle Hespe
VA N U AT U
C L O C KW I S E FROM OPPOSITE
The crystal clear bubbling waters of Champagne Beach, Espiritu Santo. Spend hours on the deserted shoreline or snorkel among abundant sea life. Divers explore the wreck of the SS President Coolidge in Espiritu Santo. There are hundreds of tonnes of US military equipment to explore at Million Dollar Point. For the adventurer, Riri Blue Hole has a Tarzan-swing rope. Fresh lobster mornay served up on the beach. Kayak through the dense jungle passage that surrounds the turquoise waters of Riri River.
Photos: Getty Images, © David Kirkland / Vanuatu Tourism, © Karsten Wrobel / Alamy
Spirited Away in Santo
Espiritu Santo, aka Santo, is famous for its stunning ‘blue holes’ – deep swimming holes that flirtatiously flit between a range of remarkable shades of blue. On our first trip to visit these remarkable hidden enclaves, my partner and I climbed aboard a local’s outrigger canoe on Riri River, and were whisked through a dense jungle passage to the Riri Blue Hole, where there’s a thatched-roof hut on stilts above the water, walking paths and quaint seating areas. In the centre of the Blue Hole, which is surrounded on all sides by thick, towering jungle, is a wooden platform to jump from and, to one side, a wooden ladder leading to a platform from which we could Tarzanswing from a rope into the startling blue, fish-filled depths. Not far away is the Nanda Blue Hole and, despite being widely considered the most beautiful blue hole in Vanuatu, it’s only A$12 to experience the magic.
Here we learnt that in nature, water appears blue because blue light isn’t as easily absorbed as other colours. The blue light is scattered, making the water appear blue; the deeper and more pure the water, the more brilliant the colour. The water in Vanuatu’s blue holes is also filtered through limestone, so it becomes close to pure and, because the holes are so deep, a luminous colour is created. As we explored, thousands of fish swam in and out of the limestone walls unperturbed. To add more magic to the surreal experience, parts of the blue hole’s floor are covered in soft-as-silk seagrass, so you can drift above shimmering green carpets of wavering grass. For those into wreck-diving and World War II history, it doesn’t get much better than Million Dollar Point, where hundreds of tonnes of US military equipment was dumped because it was cheaper to abandon it after the war, rather than transport it back home. Today, it’s a diver’s coral-encrusted
dream – an artificial reef of machinery and gear with a fascinating makeover. An hour’s drive along the coast took us to another another diving spot called Champagne Beach, due to its old-fashioned champagne-glass shape, and the bubbles created by the water moving over the volcanic-rock sea floor. We snorkelled for hours, dumbstruck by the abundance of sea life so close to a deserted shore. A further 25 minutes’ drive took us to Port Olry – a francophone fishing village with a curve of white-sand beach, and shallow turquoise waters that trick you into thinking that you’re wearing tinted sunglasses. On the beach, strewn with hammocks, is a sand-floored shack, devoid of walls (who needs them?) called Harbour Beach Restaurant. We ordered lobster mornay and were presented with one of the most enormous, delicious lobsters we’d ever Maui’s road to eaten, straight from the waters before us. Hana has over 600 curves. Heaven on Santo. Travel ideas
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C L O C KW I S E FROM LEFT
Enchanted in Efate
Flying into Vanuatu, you could see fiery volcanic cones surrounded by plains of ash, farmlands fanning out onto jungle-enclosed rivers, cliffs cascading into turquoise oceans, or expanses of beach with sand so white it makes your eyes hurt. Or, you could see all of the above, woven into jaw-dropping vistas that trigger plane-loads of sighs, daily. On our first trip to Vanuatu, we flew into Port Vila. On first sight, it’s a mix of Frenchcolonial, English and Asian influences fused with Melanesian charm. At times it may not seem to be the most organised Pacific Island nation, but that’s part of its appeal; it’s not over-commercialised. If you’re the type of traveller who likes things in a more natural state, then you’ll likely realise her beauty shortly after touchdown. If not, when you’re settled in at your resort, the big smiles and open arms of the locals are sure to win you over, and you’ll quickly discover that the local produce is
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delicious. Pesticides aren’t used much at all, so ‘organic’ and ‘paddock-to plate’ aren’t just buzzwords – they’re an everyday reality. From Port Vila airport we took a halfhour taxi south to Tamanu on the Beach resort. The roads on Efate twist into and around villages, traverse fields and skim dense jungle. All this is only 15 minutes out of the bustling capital, where cruise ships dock, business is done, and the markets are frenetic portraits of typical local life. Tamanu on the Beach was closed for a year to carry out extensive renovations. Before its revamp, it was already one of the jewels of Vanuatu’s accommodation, with a rustic beach-shack feel. Today, it still exudes a lovely laidback charm, but the 15 cabins sport chic Caribbean styling. The boutique resort has an open-air restaurant overlooking the ocean, and is an ideal place to breathe in the fresh air while experiencing lovinglycreated organic dishes, often using locallycaught seafood or beef produced nearby.
Up north in Port Havannah is Francesca’s Beach Club Bar and Restaurant. On a clifftop, with jungle behind it and the Pacific Ocean before it, this outrigger canoe-shaped venue offers Italian cuisine with spectacular views of Lelepa and Moso islands. Lelepa is a 10-minute boat ride from Efate’s coast, and is 65ha of unspoilt tropical rainforest with palm-fringed beaches and a diving site that is mindblowingly good – no one in our group wanted to leave the water. For an adrenaline rush, the Vanuatu Jungle Zipline is one of the most popular activities in Port Vila. You can explore the dense jungle like a bird, zipping through the upper forest canopy, traversing canyons, and taking in breathtaking views of Mele Bay and beyond. Families can also hop aboard sturdy off-road segways and cruise down jungle tracks, through lush tropical gardens, and a sandalwood plantation on a threehour round trip.
Photos: ©David Kirkland / Vanuatu Tourism, Tamanu on the Beach
You’ll discover that local produce is simply delicious, and there’s an abundance of it at Tamanu on the Beach resort. As you’d expect, the tropical fruit in Vanuatu is as fresh as it comes. On arriving in Vanuatu, you’ll feel at home in no time, as the locals happily welcome you, with broad smiles on their faces. Zip-lining is a thrilling activity, setting you zooming through the treetops of the jungle.
VA N U AT U
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Touched by magic in Tanna
FROM TOP TO BOTTOM
Sparks are sent flying at Mount Yasur, Tanna’s crowing glory. The Black Magic cultural show is not to be missed. Traditional costumes and dancing, knowledge shared about ancient rituals, and a kava ceremony make this a truly special experience. Visit Mount Yasur as the sun goes down and the theatrics turn up. Crackling fire and lava explosions will leave you mesmerised.
Our first experience on Tanna island was visiting Blue Cave. After a duck-dive and a few strokes, we found ourselves in an enormous cave, removed from the outside world, the water around us shimmering vividly, the arched ceiling rising majestically in its raggedy rock beauty. Seeing sun rays streaming through a hole in the cave’s roof and piercing the bright blue waters was enough to understand why the locals consider Tanna to be magical. The Black Magic cultural show stole our hearts for many reasons – traditional costumes and dancing, knowledge shared about ancient rituals, and a kava ceremony – but it was the children and babies getting in on the action that had us swooning. From the tree branches of their banyan tree castles they made scary faces, howling like banshees and grinning like only kids can. Tanna’s crowning glory is Mount Yasur – an eye-popping live volcano where we watched magma from the core of the Earth deeply burble, shooting sparks, fire, ash and lava into the sky. A crackling fire is mesmerising, but Yasur takes it to an entirely different level. We couldn’t drag ourselves away, and so we sat on Yasur’s mighty ash- and lava-coated edge until the sun went down and the inky night sky ramped up the theatre – guttural grumbling and lava explosions punctuating an awe-inspiring silence.
Tanna’s crowning glory is Mount Yasur – an eye-popping live volcano.”
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VA N U AT U
Photos:: © David Kirkland / Vanuatu Tourism, Hideaway Island, Getty
Playtime for the little ones
The people of Vanuatu are caring and entertaining, so parents quickly learn that the kids clubs at most resorts are awesome fun for little ones. And the care is so affordable that they can go out, have dinner, and come back later to pick up their happy yet weary adventurers. Swimming, snorkelling, kayaking and fishing are some of the more obvious activities for the kids, and Port Vila has a more varied array of cuisine options than the capitals of most Pacific Islands – with most restaurants, cafes and bars welcoming children. However, for something more unusual, Hideaway Island on Efate has the world’s first underwater post office, where kids can snorkel a short distance to post a special waterproof postcard. Or, back on Tanna, at Mount Yasur, kids can send mail from the Volcano Post Box located on the ashy slopes. When night falls and the parents want some downtime, children’s films are regularly aired at the Nambawan Cafe in downtown Port Vila. For some history entwined with adventure in 1.5ha of gardens, there’s a reconstructed tribal chief’s zone and a cannibal’s house to explore in The Secret Garden. Kids can also get up close and personal with the nippers of a 4kg coconut crab. Now there’s something for show-and-tell.
FROM TOP TO BOTTOM
The little ones won’t complain of being bored, with snorkelling, kayaking and fishing filling up their days in Vanuatu. The world’s first underwater post office is located at Hideaway Island on Efate. Kids are able to snorkel a short distance to post a special waterproof postcard. Hideaway Island provides an opportunity to discover an abundance of sea life, as depicted in this carving.
Live out your island dream
Visit your local Flight Centre to talk to our Travel Experts about travelling to Vanuatu, and for more advice and the latest deals. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.
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N CU EW B AC A L E D O N I A
EATING on the
Water
Restaurant Le Roof in New Caledonia offers French fare in tropical surrounds.
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TAKE YOUR TASTE BUDS ON A TOUR OF NEW CALEDONIA
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Words: Tatyana Leonov
Olives aplenty at Port Moselle Market in Noumea.
Photos: Vincent Long
Mahi mahi is featured prominently on menus around the country, like this dish with a French touch at Le Roof.
White-sand beaches and crystalline water, peaceful lagoons, and breezy bays perfect for windsurfing, New Caledonia has it all. Then there are the wild savannahs and luscious woodlands, and smaller islands – such as Lifou, Ouvea and Mare – that offer a completely different vibe. But did you know you can eat like a king here, too? New Caledonia is just two hours’ flight-time from Australia’s east coast. Glimpsed from the air, this cluster of islands is a tapestry of bright greens and daffodil yellows on turquoise waters – you know you’re entering paradise. But paradise isn’t just about long, lazy days on the beach. It’s also about eating good food. New Caledonia’s population of around 260,000 people is made up chiefly of Melanesians (also known as Kanaks) and the descendants of French colonists, and others trace their roots back to nearby islands, Wallis, Futuna and Tahiti, as well as Indonesia, Vietnam, Vanuatu and other nearby countries. Consequently, the cuisine is a reflection of this melting pot of cultural influences. New Caledonia’s produce comes from both land and sea, and the best place to get a sense of what is in season is at the Port Moselle Market in Noumea. You can buy island fruits, such as papaya and mangoes, from cheery women dressed in colourful muumuus, get fresh-caught mahi mahi and red tuna, or just amble around watching locals stock up. Restaurateurs use local produce as much as possible, so seafood is typically featured on most menus. Venison (hunting deer is permitted because of the quantity of deer on the island), is a fairly common menu item, too. Executive chefs who hail from France head up many French-inspired restaurants in Noumea – so you can feast on French fare in much balmier conditions than on the continent. L’Hippocampe, Le Roof, La Relais de la Vallee and La Table des Gourmets are
Kanak women in colourful muumuus prepare bougna.
all great options; for crepes try La Creperie Bretonne and Creperie Le Rocher; or head to a supermarket and stock up on French cheese and baguettes. Take your picnic to a palm-lined beach to enjoy. Beyond the city, traditional Kanak cuisine and farm-to-table fare lead the way. Bougna is one of the best-known Kanak dishes – a tasty mixture of yams, taro, fish and shellfish (and sometimes chicken or even bat), simmered in fragrant coconut milk and banana leaves. At smaller restaurants out of town the options may be slimmer, and you’ll eat whatever the chef is cooking (almost always a threecourse meal). Sometimes the main course will be bougna, other times it might be slow-cooked deer or roasted pork. Whatever you are served, you can be certain it will be fresh, as many chefs farm their own animals and grow their own fruits, vegetables and herbs. So come to New Caledonia with an appetite – your taste buds will thank you for it.
Eat your heart out in New Caledonia
Check with your local Flight Centre Travel Expert for the latest deals to get to New Caledonia. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.
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SA M OA
Photo portfolio
Polynesian paradise
WITH A VERDANT SCATTER OF FIVE ISLANDS BORNE FROM COUNTLESS VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS, BOTH EMERALD-GREEN LANDSCAPES AND SPARKLING SEAS VIE FOR YOUR ATTENTION IN SAMOA Words: Anna Howard
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SA M OA
To Sua Ocean Trench
Photo: Sean Condon, Samoa Tourism
Peek behind a palm and you’re just as likely to find a dense fertile valley as a white-sand beach in Samoa. Mother Nature certainly left her mark on these treasured islands, with one of the most captivating wonders the To Sua Ocean Trench. Literally translated as ‘giant hole’, the grotto consists of two large caverns joined by an ancient lava tube near Lotofaga village on the island of Upolu. The beauty of the ocean-fed, crystalclear water of the main swimming pool is matched by the ethereal gardens that hang over its almost symmetrical 30m rocky basalt rim. Add in dappled sunshine and the distant sound of crashing waves, and the scene is set for living out all your mermaid (or merman) dreams.
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Swimming with turtles
The warm waters surrounding Samoa not only lure swimmers and snorkellers, but green turtles, too. These majestic creatures were once endangered, until Sato’alepai villagers made it their mission to ensure their survival. The Sato’alepai Turtle Sanctuary on Savai’i is one of the only places on the planet to swim with green turtles before they are released into the wild. Gigantic green turtles cruising slowly through their coral-clad dwellings often join snorkellers paddling around Namu’a Island off the southern tip of Upolu.
Sopoaga Waterfall
Photos: Sean Condon, Samoa Tourism; ImageBrief; Getty
The village of Lotofaga is like ground zero for some of Samoa’s most spectacular sights. Nearby, dense rainforest foliage opens up to reveal Sopoaga Waterfall, a thundering cascade that plunges into a dark blue waterhole below. For a small entry fee, an observation deck off the main road offers uninterrupted views of the falls and its lush surrounds. The trail to the lookout itself is just as special – its length lined with abundant native flora identified by their scientific and Samoan names.
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SA M OA
Canopy walkway
Where banyan trees tower over dense rainforests and fertile valleys are carpeted in lush foliage and palms, Samoa is as green as paradise comes, especially the protected Falealupo Rainforest Reserve. A 40m elevated canopy walk across a wobbly network of bridges and wooden platforms offers a close-up of the low-lying rainforest and gigantic banyan trees. Melodic bird song and croaking frogs create the perfect soundtrack to your stroll.
Lalomanu Beach
Transparent aqua water teeming with marine life – check. Soft white sand – check. Palm-lined vistas and ocean breezes – check. Lalomanu Beach on Upolu is a head turner, a jawdropper, and a genuine holiday idyll. It may lack glamorous resorts serving umbrella-topped cocktails, but that is its very appeal. Stay a while in one of the airy beachfront fales to take advantage of the quiet, crowdfree stretch void of any footprints, other than ones you make yourself. Paradise found. Travel ideas
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Samoa isn’t just the geographical heart of Polynesia, but also its cultural centre. Fa’a Samoa (the Samoan way) is a 3,000-yearold philosophy that guides Samoans’ courteous dealings with elders, visitors and the environment. As such, travellers are welcomed warmly and treated with utmost respect. The Samoan Cultural Village in Apia offers an authentic immersion into Fa’a Samoa, with a host of interactive activities showcasing many aspects of daily life. Expect weaving, carving and siapo cloth-making lessons, rousing dance performances, a kava ceremony and a hearty umu (underground oven) feast.
Alofaaga Blowholes
Another example of the curious effects of ancient lava flows on Samoa’s landscape are the mesmerising Alofaaga Blowholes near the village of Taga on Savai’i. When waves crash against the seawall, water rushes into underwater caves, shooting 20m into the air up vertical tunnels – the power of the waves at its most raw and mighty. Locals like to amp up the fun by throwing coconuts into the vents before they blow; it’s amazing to see just how high they fly into the air!
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Photos: Sean Condon, Samoa Tourism; ImageBrief; David Kirkland
Samoa Cultural Village
SA M OA
Piula Cave Pools
A short 45-minute drive from the capital Apia is a turquoise swimming hole named after the Piula Methodist Chapel it’s found beneath. This stunning freshwater seaside pool features two caves connected by an underwater tunnel, and locals and visitors alike come here to beat the heat and lay out picnic spreads. Bring snorkelling gear and a torch to explore the hypnotic underwater world and abundance of aquatic life.
Robert Louis Stevenson Memorial Cottage and Museum
He may be of Scottish heritage, but author Robert Louis Stevenson (of Treasure Island fame) is an adopted Samoan son. After a string of South Pacific escapades, he settled in Vailima on Upolu, fast becoming known as Tusitala (“writer of stories”). His legacy lives on today through his restored estate. Visitors can tour his home and admire his personal effects, before a rainforest hike along the Loving Hearts track, which offers some of the best views on the island. Travel ideas
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Photo: Hawaii Tourism Authority
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H AWA I I
ROADS WORTH THE RIDE
WITH MILES OF COASTHUGGING ROUTES TO NAVIGATE, IT’S TIME TO GET BEHIND THE WHEEL IN HAWAII Words: Kerry van der Jagt
Maui’s Road to Hana has more than 600 curves.
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On my first day on the beach on Hawaii’s Big Island I saw a snowman. And no, I hadn’t been drinking. He was being built by a family who had transported a load of snow in their pickup truck from the top of Mauna Kea volcano to Hapuna Beach. It was as unexpected and delightful as, I’d imagine, finding a polar bear in my backyard. That’s the thing about Hawaii, there are surprises around every bend – from the snow-capped volcanoes of the Big Island (also known as Hawaii Island) to the black-sand beaches of Maui, the sea turtles of Oahu to the cloud forests of Kauai, the eight main emerald islands are teeming with experiences found nowhere else. The best part is it’s all so accessible. Start with a few days in a beachside resort (who doesn’t love sun, sand and umbrella drinks) then head off on your own road trip adventure. Maui, the Big Island and Oahu are well connected by flights, have good roads, a variety of accommodation options and are compact enough to circumnavigate in one to three days.
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Maui: the Road to Hana
Whether you do all or part of it, the Road to Hana on Maui’s rugged east coast is one of the world’s most spectacular road trips. Unfurling for 100km between Kahului and Hana, the crinkle-cut road follows an ancient pathway sculpted centuries ago by the pounding feet of Hawaiian nobility. With its 620 curves and 59 narrow bridges, the return trip (not a loop) can be tackled in one long day, but we’ve allowed three days, to travel slowly, succumb to chance and sample the many detours and distractions. After a night at Lumeria Maui, a yoga and wellness retreat in the hills above the town of Paia, our first detour is a big one – up the winding mountain road to the summit of Haleakala volcano (3,055m high), a dormant shield volcano that forms more than 75 per cent of the island. It is pitch black at the viewing platform, and cold enough to need ski gear. Swaddled in our goose-down jackets, thermals and beanies we are part of the
smug, ‘read-the-guide-book’ crowd, unlike the others standing about with little more than beach towels for warmth. It is said you can identify the various resorts people are staying at by the colours of their towels. Soon the cold is forgotten as the sun cracks the horizon, throwing sunbeams across the crater and setting the lunar landscape on fire. Later, we follow the Sliding Sands Trail to the crater floor, slipping and sliding on volcanic rubble as the rising sun turns the scene into a pastel paint box of papaya, pink and purple. Back on the road, top down and slackkey guitarist Dennis Kamakahi crooning from the CD player, we wind along the coast, pausing for road snacks of pineapple juice and warm banana bread, stopping at the Garden of Eden Arboretum where scenes from Jurassic Park were shot and lolling under the Three Bears Falls until our skin wrinkles. We swim again at Honomanu Bay, our ski gear long exchanged for snorkelling gear, the contrast making us shake
Photos: Hawaii Tourism Authority; ImageBrief;Getty
H AWA I I
C L O C KW I S E FROM OPPOSITE
The view across the Haleakala Crater on Big Island, Hawaii. Oahu’s North Shore is famous for common sea turtle sightings – a snorkeller’s delight. Hanauma Bay on Oahu shows a typical range of Hawaiian scenery, with blue waters leading up to green peaks. Coffee berries grow on the Big Island – home to some of the best coffee in the world, known as Kona coffee. The stunning coastline of the northwest edge of Maui. The Puohokamoa Falls pool can be seen from Maui’s Garden of Eden Arboretum. Oahu lives up to its reputation as a surfing haven, especially on its renowned North Shore.
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H AWA I I
The Red Sand Beach on the Hana coastline in Maui.
Big Island: Craters, coffee & cowboys
There are two surprising things about the Big Island, apart from the fact it is home to Kilauea, one of the world’s most active volcanos. The first is that there are cowboys in the highlands, thankfully of the flower-wearing rather than gun-toting variety. The second is that you can get a
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There are two surprising things about Big Island: there are cowboys in the highlands, and you can get good coffee.” decent coffee here (it’s where the USA hides the good stuff). Kona coffee is one of the best and most expensive coffees in the world, and only coffee cultivated on the slopes of Hualalai and Mauna Loa volcanoes in the Kona district of the Big Island can be called Kona coffee. The good news for road trippers is that the narrow strip of just 50km is home to more than 600 speciality coffee farms, many of which offer free tours and tastings. We start our road trip at Kona airport, on the island’s west coast, driving south along Queen Ka‘ahumanu Highway before detouring into the highlands of Hualalai volcano, the third-most active on the island. Here, the vegetation erupts into a dense
jungle, a riot of colour and cloud forests so alive you can almost hear it growing. A forest and trail tour leads us up Kaupulehu Crater, where we don hard hats and headlamps for a rope descent into a lava tube. Afterwards, we are rewarded with a coffee tasting at Mountain Thunder Coffee, where we learn that coffee tasting is just like wine tasting, with lots of swirling, snipping, and trying-to-look-wise head nodding. Armed with new knowledge we head off on our own, stopping at farm gates such as Hula Daddy Kona and Greenwell Farms, before continuing to Kealakekua Bay, famous as the stretch of beach where Captain Cook was killed in 1779.
Photos: Ireland Tourism, Getty Images
our heads in wonder. On the Keanae Peninsula we walk through fields of taro and cross black sand beaches, while Nahiku village is all dripping rainforest and triffid-like foliage. We reach Hana at nightfall, stopping to pick up wood-fired pizzas and fresh ginger beer, prepared and sold from a makeshift stall on the edge of an organic farm. In the days ahead we’ll have lava tubes to explore, more waterfalls to swim under and red-sand beaches to discover, but for now we are content to enjoy the camaraderie of other like-minded road trippers, while the cobalt-blue Pacific crashes against the rocks below.
Catch sight of magma surging from the earth in the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.
Dramatic clis on Oahu abut the Pacific Ocean.
H AWA I I
We spend the night at the Sheraton Kona at Keauhou Bay before an early rise to drive into Hawaii Volcanoes National Park for sunrise over Kilauea volcano. With the rest of the day at leisure, we explore the Crater Rim Drive, follow the Chain of Craters Road and traverse the caldera floor. The night ends with the sight of Kilauea glowing like a fireball against the ink-black sky. After a wild and wooly night in Hilo (the wet side of the island) we head west along Saddle Road, a big dipper of a road strung between Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea volcanoes. With its ups, downs and rounds it is not a route for those prone to motion sickness, but for the rest of us it is an exhilarating ride through an ever-changing, starkly beautiful landscape. Upcountry Waimea arrives in a rush of plump cattle and lei-wearing cowboys, or paniolos, descendants of Mexican vaqueros who still work the region’s ranches. Today visitors can sample a string of farm-to-fork restaurants, take a trail ride or be a cowboy for a day. From here it’s a 25-minute drive west to Hapuna Beach, where the Pacific Ocean rests like a tie-dyed silken scarf against a crescent of blinding white sand.
Photos: Getty Images, iStock, Image Brief
Oahu: Turtles & waterfalls
As tempting as it is to stay cocooned inside Waikiki’s lovely resorts, to do so would be to do Oahu, and yourself, a disservice. The pocket-sized island – a mere 48km by 70km – can be circumnavigated easily in one day, or better still, spend a few nights on the North Shore. A left turn out of Honolulu Airport leads us away from Waikiki for the less-than-onehour drive through pineapple plantations to the surf-centric North Shore. Here, a daisy chain of bohemian towns clings to the coast, home to the world’s premier surfing competitions held November to February. We base ourselves at Turtle Bay Resort, the summer days passing easily amid a rainbow of tropical shave ice, plunging waterfalls and side trips to the historic surf town of Haleiwa. We snorkel straight off the beach with endangered sea turtles, take a surf lesson at the legendary Waimea Bay and shop for trinkets at market stalls. In essence, we become young hippies again, carefree and relaxed as the North Shore lifestyle dictates.
Oahu can easily be circumnavigated in one day, or better still, spend a few nights on the North Shore.” Finally, after three days we tear ourselves away, driving east towards the windward coast, stopping to fill our bellies at the shrimp trucks dotted along the highway near Kahuku. Heading south the road hugs the coast, where Jurassic Park-green tumbles into Pacific Ocean blue, providing spectacular scenery at every bend. We pause at Pali Lookout, a cliff-side location where King Kamehameha (who established the Hawaiian Kingdom in 1810) fought his most historic battle, before enjoying a snorkel at Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve. We have just enough energy left to hike up Diamond Head, before collapsing back on the beach at Waikiki. Finally, we’ve earned our umbrella drinks.
What to consider when driving around Hawaii Honolulu International Airport on Oahu is the principal aviation gateway to the Hawaiian Islands. From here, inter-island flights connect to Kona or Hilo on the Big Island, Maui and Kauai. Maui’s offshore islands of Lanai and Molokai can be reached by air or passenger ferry from Maui.
WAIMEA BAY NORTH SHORE
PALI LOOKOUT
WAIKIKI
KAHULUI NAHIKU VILLAGE
HONOMANU BAY
HANA
HALEAKALA VOLCANO
FINDING YOUR WAY
HAPUNA BEACH HILO
KONA HUALALAI VOLCANO
MAP NOT TO SC ALE
Drive the Hawaiian islands
Visit your local Flight Centre for more advice on driving holidays and the latest deals on trips to Hawaii. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.
Rental cars can be hired at all the main island airports. Check your insurance policy, as many won’t cover unpaved detours. Driving is on the right-hand side of the road. Seatbelts are required.) Generally food and petrol stops are plentiful, except on Saddle Road, parts of the Road to Hana and Chain of Craters Road within Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Check at the park’s visitor centre for current lava viewing opportunities and volcanic fume levels. In winter check ice and snow conditions before driving up the summit access road on Mauna Kea. Beware of altitude sickness. Drive with aloha. This means only pulling over for photos where it is safe to do so, waiting your turn on bridges and giving the ‘shaka’ sign to those who have yielded to you. For peace of mind, pre-book all accommodation, especially for boutique hotels, busy resort areas and during school holidays.
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SOLOMON ISLANDS
THE SECRETS OF THE
Solomons
THIS CHILLED-OUT ISLAND PARADISE OFFERS SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE Words: Lee Mylne
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Photos © istock, Getty
SOLOMON ISLANDS
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C L O C KW I S E FROM TOP LEFT
Fresh lobster plucked straight from the sea is on the menu every day in the Solomons. Locals play joyfully at sunset in the clear waters surrounding the islands. The Peter Joseph World War II Museum founder derived its name from a dog tag found in nearby bush. The Solomons include hundreds of islands, including Kennedy Island. The ocean floor is scattered with wrecks. The long jetty at Fatboys Resort, leading from the welcome pavilion to bungalow accommodation.
Photo: Getty Photos: David Kirkland; Alamy
SOLOMON ISLANDS
Sunday morning in the Solomon Islands brings fresh lobster, still dripping from the sea. On the island of Gizo, local fishermen arrive at Fatboys Resort, unloading their catch onto the wooden jetty: squid and lobsters destined for our lunch. A set of old scales measures the weight of each as selections are made, prices negotiated. With a smile, resort worker Tori hefts the tray of seafood high as she heads for the kitchen. In the Solomons, you can eat lobster every day, if you wish. And it will never be fresher than this. Every journey when travelling around the Solomon Islands’ Western Province is an adventure involving small boats and planes. From the air, this beautiful archipelago of more than 900 islands and atolls is a string of verdant jewels in an impossibly blue sea. Most visitors here start in the capital, Honiara, on the island of Guadalcanal. It’s about a three-hour flight from Brisbane or Sydney, and it’s worth spending a few days there to get a perspective on local history. Most interesting are the many relics of World War II, when these islands witnessed some of the fiercest battles in the Pacific; there are many guided tours available. The Solomon Peace Park, and Guadalcanal American Memorial, on the hill above Honiara, are tributes to the Allied Forces soldiers, sailors and airmen who fought against the Japanese from 1942 to 1943. Iron Bottom Sound, off Honiara, is named for more than 50 wrecks of aircraft and ships that went to a watery grave during and after the war. More stark realities of war can be found at the Vilu War Museum, an open-air display of aircraft, cannons and other relics, set in lush gardens just outside Honiara. This year marks the 75th anniversary of the battle for Guadalcanal, which will be marked with special commemorative events in Honiara, and on Gizo, in August. But the main lures of the Solomons are the simple pleasures of island life – and experiencing those delights is all about island-hopping. It’s easy to fall for the charms of Gizo. At Fatboys Resort a long jetty leads from the grass-roofed over-water reception pavilion to scattered bungalows for around 20 guests. Laze in a hammock on your private verandah, have a drink in the bar as you gaze across the water of the VonaVona Lagoon to the extinct volcano Kolombangara, or snorkel
Kayaking and swimming are popular activities in the clear waters of the Solomon Islands.
The main lures of the Solomons are the simple pleasures of island life.” or dive with tropical fish and reef sharks in the clear waters around the jetty. Take one of the resort’s kayaks or small inflatable boats across the lagoon to Kennedy Island, named for the former American president. During World War II, as a naval lieutenant, John F. Kennedy earned hero status for saving his crew after their patrol boat was rammed and sunk by a Japanese destroyer. They came ashore on this uninhabited island, which you can walk around in about 15 minutes. Make time to visit an island village. This will be a highlight of your Solomon stay and allow you to learn more about daily life for the largely Melanesian population. From Fatboys, if your timing is right, you can arrange to attend the Sunday service at the tiny Church of Zion in the village of Babanga, joining the locals in their regular worship. On Rendova Island, Titiru Eco Lodge runs walking tours to nearby Ugele Village, where traditional practices, such as carving, weaving, toy-making, cooking, dancing and music, are demonstrated. On Munda, the Peter Joseph World War II Museum is found in Barney Paulsen’s backyard. Barney’s collection of wartime
relics focuses on the small personal items he’s been finding in the nearby bush for years. It includes a poignant collection of military dog tags, and the museum is named for the soldier whose tag was the first Paulsen found. Today, he’s still tracing the families of the fallen soldiers they belonged to. Other items in the collection include water bottles, uniform buttons, grenades and cutlery. From Munda, take a trip to Skull Island to discover deeper tribal traditions. This is the resting place of tribal chiefs and warriors, their remains exposed to the elements and enveloped by the jungle. The Solomon Islands is called the ‘Hapi Isles’ – and this Pijin phrase is easily understood when you see the smiling faces around you. If you’re like me, you’ll reflect that same happiness in your own face and memories after a visit to the Solomons.
See it for yourself
Visit your local Flight Centre for advice and the latest deals on travelling to the Solomon Islands. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.
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RO M A N T I C G E TAWAYS
Loved up South Pacific IN THE
AQUAMARINE LAGOONS AND ACHINGLY BEAUTIFUL BEACHES… NICHOLAS SPARKS, WE’VE FOUND THE SETTING FOR YOUR NEXT NOVEL Words: Emma Lee
If the South Pacific had a middle name, it would be romance. The language of love comes in many guises, but it’s easy to understand among the gentle wavelets of pristine sandy shores. It beckons from the aquamarine waters of coral reefs, and invites you to a candlelit dinner on a private deck in the treetops. Each island of the South Pacific offers its own style of romance. Whatever special moments you seek with your loved one, the South Pacific can serve them up with a dressing of indescribable beauty. There are some sensations that can only be felt, but no words are needed when you experience a life-changing encounter with your soulmate by your side.
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Photo: © Tim McKenna
RO M A N T I C G E TAWAYS
A breathtaking view of the clear turquoise waters surrounding Teti'aroa.
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Relaxing by the beach is better in pairs, as you’ll discover in Fiji.
Sunset sailing
although you may prefer to say, “I do” on the shores of a blissfully deserted island in French Polynesia. There’s no need to leave the ship if you’re looking for a more laidback experience. Providers such as Paul Gauguin Cruises know how to perfect a romantic escape, with a honeymoon package that includes daily canapes served in your stateroom – the perfect excuse to stay snuggled up in bed. Blue Lagoon Cruises invites you to a private dinner on the beach, where you can toast to a lovely day under a sky teeming with stars.
Lazy days, together
vibes. The combination of world-class resorts and the country’s beauty makes it the ideal stop for babymooners, who can immerse themselves in paradise while enjoying every modern convenience before baby comes. Splash out on a helicopter ride to Sheraton’s Tokoriki Island Resort – you’ll avoid bumpy boat rides en route to a paradise that has been designed to ensure you relish every luxurious minute.
There’s something about the thought of setting sail on the high seas that fills your stomach with butterflies. South Pacific cruises are made for romance – think kisses on the deck and utter relaxation as you enjoy the changing utopian backdrop. The chance to visit picturesque ports of call with very little effort leaves you and your partner with plenty of quality time together, and also provides a charming opportunity for an official declaration of love. A day on shore in Vanuatu can easily be transformed into a whirlwind wedding,
The beauty of travelling with your favourite person is that you don’t need to do much to enjoy yourselves. Lazy days spent at the water’s edge, afternoon siestas in oversized hammocks and twilight walks along the beach may be all you need to carve out your own slice of heaven. Fiji is the South Pacific’s most popular destination, yet it retains its tropical island
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Photos: © John Whittle Photography; © Stephen Govel Photography, © David Kirkland
Sail away in Moorea, French Polynesia with Paul Gauguin Cruises.
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Shared adventures
Seeing your own wonder reflected in the face of your loved one is a special moment that rides on the tail of a shared adventure. Walk along the rim of Mount Yasur and try to look away from the fury of its molten crater – it’s almost impossible. The proximity to unbridled nature will thrill you to your core. It’s a smoking hot setting for a proposal that will be forever marked in your memories with explosive elation. Tanna Island, Vanuatu, boasts more than just the volcanic marvel of Mount Yasur;
it’s also an unsullied haven where you and your companion can set out to discover local cultural traditions, crystalline waterfalls and dreamy underwater caves. Take your lover’s hand and slip into the balmy waters of Tonga, where you may be lucky enough to actually feel the song of the humpback whale humming through the turquoise depths. It’s one of the few places on Earth where you can swim with these graceful giants and their calves, with a variety of resorts offering guided ethical encounters.
Embark on an underwater adventure in search of hidden underwater caves on Tanna Island.
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RO M A N T I C G E TAWAYS
Underwater wonderland
Exploring the waters of the South Pacific may be the closest you’ll ever get to a fairytale kingdom. Submerge yourself in a world of fantastical colours and shapes, where the weight of your very being is altered. Second only to the Great Barrier Reef, the World Heritage-listed reefs of New Caledonia will mesmerise your senses. Swimming among flurries of flamboyant fish and drifting amid the jewel-coloured coral is a pastime that is enhanced by a shared wordless joy. The moment you first see a turtle in its natural habitat is a memory that you can’t help but cherish. Turtles
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are a fixture in the waters of French Polynesia, and the many dedicated havens allow you to get close enough to see the grooves on the shells of these endearing creatures. For a fascinating blend of nature and history, float over the hundreds of World War II wrecks that sprinkle the seabed around the Solomon Islands. American bombers, Kiwi minesweepers and Japanese submarines occupy the ocean floor. Divers can explore Tonga’s sea caves, which will humble you with their majesty. Hanging in the shadows of an underwater chamber offers a raw exhilaration that is hard to come by these days.
Explore fascinating caves in the waters surrounding Tonga.
Discover the therapeutic benefits of the ocean at Matangi Private Island Resort.
Photos: © Darryl Torckler; © Anastasia Kariofyllidis, Matangi Resort
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Marooned in paradise
Surely we’ve all dreamed of having that special someone to ourselves in the seclusion of an exquisite wilderness. This daydream is yours for the taking when you paddle out to Samoa’s Nu’usafe’e Island for a day of natural immersion. It’s one of a few uninhabited Samoan islands where you can snorkel, sunbathe and unwind with total abandon. A private island resort is an even more luxurious way to enjoy the sensation of freedom. Matangi Private Island Resort in Fiji is the only establishment you’ll need to contend with – the rest of the island is yours to explore. The resort’s treehouses cradle you and your other half in a leafy embrace that transports you worlds away from reality.
An ocean-view bure at the Matangi Private Island Resort is the ultimate romantic getaway.
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Life on stilts
There are few people who are immune to the charms of an overwater villa. It’s your own private oasis, disturbed only by the gentle lapping of the pure blue waters that swirl beneath the stilts. Awaken to the glow of the sun sparkling on the ocean and spend your day floating in an idyllic world. The South Pacific is the queen of overwater bungalows, each more alluring than the last. We’ve all been seduced by images of Bora Bora’s glorious floating resorts but, for an extra dash of magic, choose Le Meridien Bora Bora and gaze down at the luminous sea through the largest glass floors on the island. Showering in the sunlight of a tropical courtyard is a benefit facilitated by the dual nature of Aitutaki Lagoon Resort’s overwater bungalows, nestled half on the sand and half over the lustrous blue waters.
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The overwater villas at Le Meridien Bora Bora allow you to admire the sea life from above.
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Photos: © Tim McKenna; © Eric Martin; The Brando Resort
Love-laden luxury
If your romantic ideal calls for couples’ massages by the water, private covered sun lounges and breathtaking infinity pools, then you’ll be spoiled for choice by the South Pacific’s array of opulent resorts. Teti’aroa is the Tahitian island that so famously enthralled Marlon Brando. The island’s only resort is named in honour of the movie star, who was utterly smitten with Teti’aroa’s pure beauty. You’ll be happily lost in the spaciousness of The Brando’s deluxe villas, where you can spend your days together moving lazily between your exclusive stretch of beach and your private plunge pool. And 24-hour room service allows you to forgo all unnecessary interaction with the world. The privacy continues as you standup paddleboard on the waters of Mermaid Bay, surrounded only by natural splendour.
The Brando’s lushHappiness surroundsis isfront of begging mind fortoBuddhist just be monks in Bhutan. explored.
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10 Tonga THINGS TO TRY IN
FAR FROM THE TOURIST TRAIL, NATURAL WONDERS AND CULTURAL RICHES TAKE THE STAGE IN THIS UNTOUCHED WORLD Words: Kris Madden
01 Discover Pacific history
Tonga became known as the ‘Friendly Islands’ because of the warm reception Captain Cook received on a visit to the Ha’apai islands in 1777 – despite the chiefs initially wanting to ‘cook’ Cook (they couldn’t agree on a plan), according to William Mariner. Alongside Captain Cook’s landing site, the island of Tongatapu is also where the mysterious 13th-century Ha’amonga, a Maui trilithon, or the ‘Stonehenge’ of the South Pacific, is found.
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02 Try traditional Tongan dress
You will see plenty of Tongans still wearing traditional dress in the kingdom, especially on formal occasions and Sundays. Both men and women wear finely woven mats called ta’ovala around their waists over a tupenu (wrap-around cloth skirt). It’s the equivalent of a Western suit. At other times, Tongans dress conservatively – a man can still be fined for taking off his shirt in public, so garb up modestly, and always cover your knees.
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Photos: © David Kirkland; Alamy; Tourism Tonga
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03 Embrace sacred Sunday
On the topic of churches, Tonga is a deeply religious nation, and faith forms an important part of daily life. Sundays in Tonga are strictly observed as holy days: all businesses are closed by law (apart from some tourist resorts), and even in rugbymad Tonga, playing sport is prohibited. The best thing to do is join everybody else and attend one of the various church services, even if you’re not religious, as the melodic Tongan voices are pure heaven.
04 Take a short flight to adventure 05 Visit a South Pacific kingdom If Tonga feels like a step back in time, a visit to ‘Eua will warp your sense of time even more. The kingdom’s oldest island boasts beautiful hills and rich rainforest, perfect for birdwatching and hikes in the wilderness. This is the place to go for true wild adventure, as the facilities are basic, but you’ll have the place almost to yourself. The seven-minute flight from Tongatapu is one of the world’s shortest commercial flights..
Tonga is the only remaining constitutional monarchy in the South Pacific, and is still ruled by a king and royal family. King Tupou VI is the current ruler, reigning since 2012. On the main island of Tongatapu, you can peek at the Royal Palace, and visit the langis, the terraced tombs of past Tongan kings. You may even catch a glimpse of the royals at the Free Wesleyan Church in Nuku’alofa on a Sunday morning. Travel ideas
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06 Find your inner Robinson Crusoe Of Tonga’s more than 170 islands, only 36 are inhabited. To visit one and leave your own footprints, the best option is a liveaboard yacht charter, where you can navigate the blue seas and anchor for a swim as part of a day cruise. Experienced sailors liken the northern Vava’u island group to a cross between the Bahamas and the Virgin Islands.
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07 Swim with humpback whales
Photos: © David Kirkland; Getty Images; Alamy
Every year from July to October humpback whales make their long migration from Antarctica to breed and give birth in the warm Tongan waters. Tonga is one of the only places in the world where it is legal to swim with humpback whales (the others being the Dominican Republic; Niue, between Tonga and American Samoa; and some trials in Australia). Swimming with some of the largest creatures on Earth is truly the wildlife experience of a lifetime.
08 Dance the lakalaka
Dance in Tonga is distinctly different from other South Pacific nations. Graceful movements enhance vocal poetry, creating a style that is uniquely Tongan. If you attend a Tongan dance, you’ll probably be invited to join in, or to show your appreciation by giving the dancer a small donation. The traditional national dance of Tonga is the lakalaka, listed by UNESCO as a ‘Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity’.
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09 Buy authentic handicrafts
Mass produced souvenirs are not common in Tonga. Instead, you’ll find interesting and authentic traditional art and handicrafts, often made by the person you’re purchasing from. The kingdom’s two most prominent crafts are tapa, cloth made from the bark of the paper mulberry tree, and mat weaving, which both have great cultural significance. You’ll also find intricate carvings and finely woven pandanus baskets.
10 Drink in kava culture
While you’ll find the ritual of kava drinking throughout the South Pacific, you’re likely to encounter it much more frequently in Tonga. Kava clubs are found in every town, and kava drinking gatherings take place almost every night in the villages, but traditionally only men can participate (women serve). The slightly narcotic drink looks and tastes like dirty dishwater, but sipping a coconut shell full of it at least once is an essential experience.
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Experience Tonga
Visit your local Flight Centre to find out more about Tonga and the latest deals on flights to this South Pacific paradise. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.
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PA P U A N E W G U I N E A
Locals out on the water in their canoes in Papua New Guinea.
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Land ahoy!
PAPUA NEW GUINEA OFFERS A CULTURALLY RICH AND VISUALLY STUNNING LITTLE-KNOWN CRUISING DESTINATION FOR FAMILIES Words: Tiana Templeman
I didn’t think cruising around Papua New Guinea would be an adrenalinepacked holiday, but there is never a dull moment when shore excursions involve bamboo rafts with rakish young captains who love to race. Despite a heart-thumping introduction to exploring this emerging travel destination, our family quickly fell for the charms of Papua New Guinea. Cruising is an ideal way to experience this part of the South Pacific. Despite being one of Australia’s closest neighbours, Papua New Guinea remains largely undiscovered, and offers families the chance to rekindle their spirit of adventure in a unique and friendly environment. On a cruise ship, everything you need for a fun holiday is within easy reach, and the itinerary for a Papua New Guinea cruise puts you in the heart of the action, travelling to some of the region’s most stunning islands. Travel ideas
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PA P U A N E W G U I N E A
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Cruising around one of Australia’s closest neighbours, Papua new Guinea, is becoming more and more popular. Young women in traditional garb on Kitava Island. Colourful and eye-catching, traditional dress is all about the details for the local people who live in Papua New Guinea. A local child paddles in his wooden canoe, just o the Island of Kiriwina. A drummer strikes out a beat and dances as part of a performance to welcome visitors.
Photos: Getty; P&0
It’s easy to find a beautiful deserted beach among the many Conflict Islands.
Being first-time visitors to Papua New Guinea, we decided on a modest sevennight round-trip cruise from Cairns on P&O Cruises’ Pacific Eden. We agreed this would be long enough to get a feel for the destination, but not too long if we didn’t like it. P&O Cruises launched its first Papua New Guinea itinerary in late 2013, and the region’s growing popularity has seen departures become available from Brisbane and Cairns, with itineraries of up to 14 nights on offer. Our route would take us to four ports in the Milne Bay Province, including the area’s capital, Alotau, and three visually stunning and culturally rich islands. It takes one day to reach Papua New Guinea from Cairns, which gives us time to explore the ship. Our son challenges us to the rock-climbing wall on the top deck at P&O Edge Adventure Park, an outdoor activities area with 14 options to scare yourself silly (or just have fun), such as walking the plank, ropes courses, climbing the ship’s funnel and abseiling. In the afternoon we fly through the air
on a zip-line high above the pool deck, waving at passengers sipping tropical cocktails far below, go for a swim and join a game of trivia. Dinner is at Dragon Lady, one of two (free) specialty restaurants, where waitstaff hand over menus folded up like origami and tempt us with Pan-Asian dishes such as Thai chicken soup, fish curry and spicy peanut and vegetable noodles. Family-friendly games and activities, delicious dining venues, hilarious PG-rated comedians, and first-class musical entertainment, keep us entertained from early morning until long after the sun goes down. We awake the next day at Alotau, which played a pivotal role in the Battle of Milne Bay in 1942. My husband has booked a half-day war history tour (which he has been looking forward to for months), but the 12-year-old and I don’t share his enthusiasm and agree a lively cultural excursion is more our style. After a short bus ride to the tour site, we are treated to a rotating series of dancing displays, from an army of
shouting, spear-wielding warriors to graceful women wearing grass skirts and beaming smiles. Our son plucks up the courage to have his photo taken with one of the ‘fearsome warriors’, after he realises the guys are high-school students, just like him, and not fearsome at all. Later, at the tiny island of Kitava, located just off the larger Trobriand Island of Kiriwina, bare-chested villagers greet us with flower leis and shy smiles. There are no organised ship tours or group excursions here. Instead, rows of elaborately decorated bamboo outrigger rafts line the shore, ready to transfer passengers to a pristine sandy atoll that resembles a picture-perfect postcard. Our outrigger captain slips our three five-kina notes (A$2.50 each) into a pouch around his neck and helps us clamber onto his handmade bamboo raft. My husband, son and I are the only passengers and wave at his young male crew, all of whom are holding a rustic wooden paddle. Our helmsman says something to one of the other raft captains, then shouts “Go!” and Travel ideas
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We hang on tight as the raft gathers speed, laughing as we realise we have stumbled into the middle of a race.�
Locals paddle in their outrigger canoes near Kitava in the Trobriand Islands.
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PA P U A N E W G U I N E A
our crew begin paddling like they are trying to escape a sea monster. We hang on tight as the raft gathers speed, laughing as we realise we have stumbled into the middle of a race. Our crew whoop and holler and paddle even harder, determined to beat the other raft, which has an advantage with only two passengers. Our win is heralded with a conch shell fanfare and we spend the morning snorkelling over pristine coral and admiring the beauty of our surroundings. Our next stop is Kiriwina Island, the largest in the Trobriands, which is home to over 12,000 islanders, yet similarly undeveloped. We gaze out over the rugged coastline, shallow coral reef, white-sand beaches and secluded coves, wondering what the day has in store. Low tide makes it impossible to snorkel, so we cool down in the shallows while our son chats to kids who canoe alongside us. Back on shore, school children wearing elaborate hand-woven lap-laps and cheeky grins perform traditional dances, and woven mats form a makeshift marketplace selling exquisite woodcarvings inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Kiriwina is famous for its carving and many passengers return to the ship with beautiful souvenirs.
Our last port is the Conflict Islands, a privately owned archipelago of 21 untouched islands surrounded by a cerulean blue lagoon with one of the most biodiverse coral reefs in the world. This is our family’s most anticipated stop of the cruise and we are up early with our snorkel gear packed, ready to board the first available tender boat. However, it is not to be. An onshore wind makes tender operations impossible and the captain informs us the ship will remain here until late morning in the hope the wind eventually dies down. Passengers line the top deck, some with their fingers literally crossed, as a crew-only tender attempts the crossing again before lunch. Its rocking, roiling, spray-drenched passage tells us all we need to know. After a sincere apology from the captain, the ship departs for the journey back to Cairns. Our son is disappointed yet philosophical, pointing out it is still a beautiful day and the pool looks perfect for a dip before lunch. “We will just have to come back and try again next year,” he says. With plenty of onboard and onshore adventures still to be had, his dad and I couldn’t agree more.
3 more great South Pacific cruises to consider French flair in New Caledonia Experience a delicious taste of France without the jetlag on a 10-night cruise on Carnival Spirit, which departs from Sydney and stops at Isle of Pines, Mare, Lifou and Noumea in New Caledonia, a French territory comprising dozens of South Pacific islands. With the world’s largest enclosed lagoon, caves, hiking trails and French cafes to explore, there is never a dull moment. Tahiti and beyond Discover the best of the South Pacific on a 17-night cruise from Papeete to Sydney on Norwegian Jewel. Highlights include Raiatea and Bora Bora in French Polynesia; Pago Pago in American Samoa; Suva and Lautoka in Fiji; Port Vila in Vanuatu; and Noumea and the Isle of Pines in New Caledonia. Sought-after ports like Bora Bora and lesser-known spots such as Pago Pago make this cruise equally appealing for first-timers and regular cruisers. Family fun in Fiji Have some school holiday fun with the kids in Fiji on a 14-night round-trip cruise from Sydney on Diamond Princess. This itinerary offers an appealing mix of ports and relaxing days at sea, with stops at destinations such as tropical Port Vila in Vanuatu, Noumea in New Caledonia and Savusavu, Suva, Lautoka and Dravuni in Fiji.
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See it for yourself
Smiles all round at the Milne Bay Canoe Festival.
Visit your local Flight Centre for advice and the latest deals on travelling to Papua New Guinea. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.
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RIDING A NEW
wave
FIJI IS NOW WELL AND TRULY ON THE MAP AS A WORLD-CLASS SURFING DESTINATION Words: Carla Grossetti
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Photo: Getty
SURF FIJI
Renowned surf breaks are dotted all around Fiji, like this swell at Tavarua.
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FIJI
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Tavarua Island and its resort gained attention in 1984 on the cover of Surfer magazine. Fiji was for a long time diďŹƒcult to access as a surfing destination due to exclusive access to breaks by nearby resorts, but that’s all changed now. There are on-the-water activities in Fiji besides surfing, like fishing in Pacific Harbour. Cloudbreak is one of the most famous surf breaks in Fiji. There are many locations to rent surf gear in Fiji, and plenty of companies willing to help get you to the breaks. Nanuku Auberge Resort looks out onto Pacific Harbour, and is among the accommodation options that will help you surf the breaks of Fiji.
SURF FIJI
Up until 2010, access to world-class breaks, including Cloudbreak, Restaurants and Swimming Pools, was reserved for the exclusive use of resort guests.” Fiji has been on the map of worldclass surfing destinations for decades. But it’s only been in the last seven years – since the government enshrined in law the Regulation of Surfing Areas Decree 2010 – that the Melanesian island country has been fully accessible to an increasing number of visitors who design their itineraries around chasing the swell. Up until 2010, access to world-renowned breaks, including Cloudbreak, Restaurants and Swimming Pools, was reserved for the exclusive use of guests staying at resorts such as Tavarua and Namotu, who had to pay hundreds of dollars a day for the privilege, as well as room tariffs.
Photo: Getty Photos: Getty; Carla Grosetti; Nanuka Auberge Resort; iStock.
A hidden paradise
According to the Encyclopaedia of Surfing website, Californian surfer Dave Clark spent two months in 1982 surfing on Tavarua with his cousin. Clark and fellow Californian surfer Scott Funk built an early version of Tavarua Island Resort that year after meeting with local tribes to secure surfing rights to the area’s best breaks. In 1984 both the resort and surf break gained international attention when they featured on the cover of Surfer magazine. The resort’s rights to Cloudbreak was tested and challenged by both Fijian and foreign surfers right up until 2010, when the Fijian government finally lifted restrictions on surfing the island’s waves.
A swell place
Although it’s been documented that surfing was practised in Fiji as far back as the late 1800s, the sport has only recently seen a resurgence in popularity with locals. This comes thanks to 2010’s decree, coupled with a push by the Fiji Surfing Association to make it a widespread sport among Fijians. Images of Tavarua’s epic waves have helped secure Fiji’s status as a premier surf destination since it held its first pro-
surfing contests in the late 1980s. The first world-tour event was held at Cloudbreak in 1999 and, by 2012, most of the world’s top big-wave riders had the island on their radar. As far as surfing destinations go, the fact that Fiji’s waves are now open to all means it continues to shape up as an attractive proposition for a South Pacific surf trip.
Surfing seasons
Fiji’s cyclone season runs from November to April. While Cloudbreak is best from May to October, the cyclone season often produces great surfing conditions along the Coral Coast. The weather in Fiji is tropical year-round, but there are two distinct surfing seasons: the dry season (winter), from March to October, which produces the biggest waves; and the wet season (summer), from November to March, which has lighter winds and less consistent swells. The beauty of travelling to Fiji in the low season is that the waves will be less crowded.
BYO board and booties
For any surf trip to Fiji, it is recommended surfers take a short board plus a larger semi-gun for bigger days. The seas are warm, so board shorts and a rash vest will be warm enough. Also pack booties, sunscreen, surf wax, a spare leg rope and a first-aid kit.
Getting to the breaks
Sigatoka Sand Dunes National Park offers the only beach break in Fiji – most of the best waves are located on outer coral reefs and are suitable for experienced surfers only (gaining access to them is a mission, but a fun one at that). Boat trips are offered from most of the resorts in the vicinity of the famed breaks. As well as being a competent surfer, you must be comfortable with diving into this landscape, where coral reef cities and marine life abound.
Staying there Castaway Island is perfect for those with a few non-surfers in tow, as resort activities range from beach volleyball to barefoot boxing. Surfing tours can be arranged to breaks including Wilkes Passage, Swimming Pools, Namotu Right, Namotu Left, Cloudbreak and Desperation. Nanuku Auberge Resort is located on the main island of Viti Levu. It works with a nearby surf charter company that offers daily tours to both popular and little-known surf breaks when conditions are good. Guests can also rent surfboards from the charter company. Malolo Beach Resort near Cloudbreak offers plenty of fun under the sun, including jetski safaris, wakeboarding, waterskiing and surfing.
Water adventures for non-surfers If you aren’t up for surfing, know that Fiji has dozens of bays and beaches protected by the reef that are perfect for paddleboarding and sea kayaking. Snorkellers will also enjoy drifting around the offshore reefs around Beqa Lagoon. Seeking a bit more adventure? You can dive with up to eight different species of sharks at Beqa Lagoon, a world-class diving destination located in the waters off Waidroka Bay Resort.
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Cook Islands adventures
FROM HIKING AND CYCLING TO FISHING AND SWIMMING WITH THE FISH, COOK ISLANDS HAS SOFT ADVENTURES COVERED
Photos: Evan Dickson, Latvia Travel
Words: Jayne D’Arcy
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COOK ISLANDS
If there’s one place that you can count on to turn back time, it’s the Cook Islands. Literally. You see, for most arrivals from Australia and New Zealand, the date line means you arrive before you even left home. You’re living the same day over again, only in paradise. So how do you spend that precious time in the Cook Islands? In bathers, for starters. The pale blue waters of a lagoon surround the entire island of Rarotonga – that’s around 32km of coast. Of course, water-based activities abound. Enjoy fishing? Sign up to go with someone who knows the best spots. Head out on a boat, or go shore-based bonefish fishing on the small island of Aitutaki, another lagoon paradise under an hour’s flight away. The curious give stand-up paddleboarding a go on the warm water, often mixing in a bit of yoga. It’s the perfect place to BYO snorkel gear: under the surface it’s a magical coralfilled world. The Cooks is a place where kids easily fall into a calm pattern. Maybe it’s catching the round-island bus (the only public transport on the island), or getting the hang of being brave and ‘letting go’ of a rope swing hanging over the water from a leaning coconut palm. Or discovering the best pools on the island while parents
resort-hop looking for the most delicious island chips during various happy hours. Join a family-friendly tour that checks out back streets by bike, fuelling cyclists up on fruit straight from roadside trees. There are old-school holiday favourites, too, like minigolf, and Zumba classes (local-style). The Saturday Punanga Nui Market in the island’s ‘capital’, Avarua, is a lively spot to stock up on delicious pastries, freshout-of-the-coconut water and ready-to-eat meals. It’s certainly worth making sure a stay on the Cooks includes a Saturday market morning. Burn off the island food (it’s not all papaya and marinated fish: island-style ‘fast food’ does a roaring trade) with a cross-island trek. You can attempt the climb to the Needle by yourself, but going with a local cultural and climbing expert like Pa is well worth it. Rinse off the sweat in a waterfall at the end. It’s just one of the experiences that will remind you later that it’s time to turn back time and return again. There are myriad other activities beyond these too, including lagoon cruises with snorkelling to see sealife in the clear waters, exploring under your own steam in a kayak, and swimming to the motus (small islands) off Muri Lagoon.
OPPOSITE, THIS PAGE: Dancing is a key part of the local culture of the Cook Islands; doing yoga on a paddleboard is a rewarding, relaxing challenge.
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COOK ISLANDS
Up and upside down Words: Jayne D’Arcy
Photos: Evan Dickson, Latvia Travel
I can see the stunning peak leaping boldly out of the forest-covered centre of Rarotonga. I’m looking at it upside down, though my legs, as I do a downward-facing dog. I’m in the middle of one of stand-up paddleboarding goddess Charlotte Piho’s week-long paddleboarding and yoga retreats in the Cook Islands. As I contemplate one of the highest points of this paradise I realise that the challenge I’m about to take on – walking across the island via the peak – is in contrast to the relaxing yoga and meditation sessions that I’ve been doing. I’ve loved every minute so far, but I’m guessing that Piho’s added this trek to the schedule to... Toughen us all up, maybe? Initially I’d signed up for the retreat thinking it would be 100 per cent relax. We’ve spent time meandering through the bustling Saturday market to the sounds of the local dance troupe while sipping from fresh coconuts. We’ve borrowed bikes from our resort for an easy spin around the island. We’ve gone snorkelling and discovered tropical fish galore in the
island’s waters. But from below sea level, we’re now heading above. We start our trek energetically: our little group of beach babes (and a guy) is running late, so we hit the trail at a run, to catch up with island legend Pa, who runs these walks. Looks like ‘Island Time’ is a fluid concept as well. We pass fruit trees and inhale the fresh scent of forest, heading up all the while. It’s challenging, but I’m determined. There are mantras going around in my head. I can do this! And I do. Step by step. High up, at around 400 metres above sea level, we stop to rest at a peaceful spot. I find a place on a moss-covered rock and glug pure water. Dreadlocked Pa hands around fresh papaya while telling us stories of traditional medicines. I take a selfie and see that I’m glowing. The glow is mostly sweat, but there’s a lot of ‘I’ve done it!’ glow, showing too. At the base, and finale of the trek, there’s another watery treat: a beautiful waterfall that calls us in for a rejuvenating swim. Back to the coast, trek-box ticked, we’re soon back on our boards. I catch sight of the peak again and again over the rest of the week, each time feeling thrilled and amazed that I’d climbed it.
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C L O C KW I S E FROM OPPOSITE
Paddleboarding in Cook Islands at sunset. A skilled paddleboarder shows what’s possible on a board. Setting off on Pa’s challenging Rarotonga mountain walk. Tropical fruits are fresh and plentiful here. Pa teaches trekkers the medicinal use of local plants. The conspicuous peak called The Needle at the centre of Rarotonga. A sign indicates the hiking path towards the peak.
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C L O C KW I S E FROM TOP LEFT
The mountainous jungle scenery of the Cook Islands. Rarotonga is crowded with piglets, goats and horses. Exploring the island with Storytellers Eco Cycle Tours. Fishing like the locals in Aitutaki is a challenge, particularly to catch the large mahi mahi. Cycling tours are suitable for all fitness levels, and include many rest stops. Reeling in a catch in the Cook Islands oers a true sense of achievement.
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COOK ISLANDS
Getting deep Words: Craig Tansley
of them here – plus goats and horses – than there are cars. I grew up on Rarotonga, but my guide shows me secret waterholes and sacred burial sites locals don’t even know about. There are green hidden valleys up here where few people ever venture – up tracks behind the few properties built this far into the hinterland. Though I love the lagoons (these are some of the South Pacific’s finest) it’s up here in the shadows of the mountains where I feel the deepest connection to Polynesia, far from any other travellers.
Travel to the Cook Islands
Visit your local Flight Centre store for more advice and the latest deals on travelling to the Cook Islands. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.
Photos: Evan Dickson, Latvia Travel
It’s still dark as I stumble my way to the pier near Rarotonga’s Avana Passage, where Muri Lagoon empties into the royal blue Pacific Ocean. “You know how to fish?” local fishing guru Captain Moko asks by way of introduction. He sizes me up, no doubt noticing the lack of callouses on my hands, and the softness to my belly. “Well, you will soon,” he says gruffly. Rarotonga offers some of the world’s best deep-sea fishing, but don’t expect too many niceties – this is the place you come to learn to fish like a Polynesian. As the sun rises we force our way out through the narrow reef passage, following the sea birds and Moko’s Polynesian instinct, to a place in the ocean where the fish gather. Within minutes the reels are bent over double, and Moko’s yelling at me to pull them
in – fast. My shoulders burn as I pull in a 15kg mahi mahi, then an even bigger wahoo. Though my shoulders ache, and my nose feels burnt, and the salt spray makes my eyes water, as I look back to Rarotonga’s green, mountainous interior, I feel far more Polynesian than I did at dawn. Back on land, as we fillet the fish and Moko lets me take home what I think I can barbecue, I ask him if I’m a fisherman yet. “In many years,” he says. Later, I leave the coast behind me, taking a cycling tour with Storytellers Eco Cycle Tours. In my quest to understand more about Polynesian culture, I leave the more populated coast road to ride with a local guide around Rarotonga’s ancient inland road, Ara Metua, built almost 1,000 years ago. It’s only a few hundred metres inland, but here locals still live from the land, tending taro plantations and raising pigs, feeding them coconuts and papaw from their plantations. Tiny piglets stop our passage; there are more
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TRAVEL GUIDES
Island highlights
DON’T MISS THESE SOUTH PAC I F I C D E ST I NATIONS, PICKE D BY O UR V ERY OWN T R AVE L E XPERTS
Bora Bora, French Polynesia
Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii
Noumea, New Caledonia
Why I love it...
Why I love it...
Why I love it...
The water is crystal clear, the beaches are incredible, the ceviche is amazing and the locals are incredibly friendly.” Darryl Dickson Flight Centre Redbank, Qld
It’s so easy to get around, especially on the convenient Waikiki Trolley (a hop-on, hop-off-style bus).” Hazel Martin Flight Centre Noosa, Qld
I love Noumea because of its laidback island lifestyle, plus, it’s my hometown.” Elodie Coze Flight Centre Springfield Orion, Qld
FOOD
FOOD
FOOD
The Lucky House
Duke’s Waikiki
Baie des Citrons
When it comes to French and Polynesian fusion cuisine, The Lucky House on Matira Beach can’t be beat. Try the Tahitian fish ‘cooked’ in coconut and lime juice. PLAY
Shark & Ray Snorkel Safari
Snorkel in a coral garden among tropical fish, before getting up close and personal with gentle manta rays and lemon reef sharks. It was a completely life changing experience and the highlight of my holiday. AFTER DARK
Bloody Mary’s
This relaxed restaurant and bar is a bit of a cult legend in these parts, serving up delicious cocktails under a thatched roof. DAY TRIP
Jetski
For a bit of an adrenaline rush, hit the crystal-clear aquamarine water on a guided jetski tour of the motus (small islets) dotted around the main island.
This beachfront bar is an island institution. Think tiki torches, surfing paraphernalia, fresh eats and cocktails inspired by flavours of the Pacific. PLAY
Hanauma Bay State Park
Learn about marine conservation and try to spot tropical fish and turtles as you swim and snorkel in the protected conservation area. AFTER DARK
Waikiki
Take a short cruise on board the Mary D to a beautiful protected marine reserve known as Amedee Island. Send a postcard home from the world’s smallest post office located in the lighthouse. AFTER DARK
Hire a car and hit the Kamehameha Highway to surfing mecca, North Shore. Pack a picnic lunch, or stop in at one of the iconic food trucks for some garlic shrimp.
This nature reserve in nearby Yate has waterfalls and endemic flora, such as a 1,000-year-old 40m-tall kauri tree. If you’re lucky, you’ll see the cagou, an endangered bird in its natural habitat.
North Shore
SECRET TIP
Insider info
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Amedee Island
Pop Light
Insider info
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PLAY
This famous beach destination comes alive with street entertainment and latenight shopping. If you’re staying over the weekend, be sure to check out the fireworks at Hilton Hawaiian Village on Friday nights. DAY TRIP
SECRET TIP
Hire a scooter to circumnavigate the island. With only one road, there’s no chance of getting lost. It’s a great way to see why Marlon Brando called Bora Bora home.
This beachfront stretch is lined with great restaurants, bars and nightclubs. Try Le Miretti Gascon, Noumea’s oldest restaurant.
The sun rises and sets at a standard yearround time of 6.30am and 6.30pm, so there’s no need to set your alarm too early. You’re on holidays, after all.
If partying and dancing is your style, head to Pop Light, the only overwater nightclub in Noumea. You might even spot Popi the dolphin, who has become a club mascot. DAY TRIP
Blue River Provincial Park
SECRET TIP
Insider info
Don’t discount the corner stores for snacks – they sell delicious (and cheap) nem, or Vietnamese spring rolls.
island highlights
Rarotonga, Cook Islands
Why I love it... The food, people and their laidback attitude combined with amazing culture, scenery and idyllic blue lagoons.” Eleanor Howe Flight Centre Sutherland, NSW
Viti Levu, Fiji
Why I love it...
Why I love it...
There’s no shortage of exciting things to do and the local people are all so welcoming to visitors.” Tamika Harrison Flight Centre Lavington, NSW
The people are so lovely and there is so much more to do than just relax by the pool.” Sophie Woodman Flight Centre Glendale, NSW
FOOD
FOOD
FOOD
Punanga Nui Market
Fugalei Fresh Produce Market
Kava ceremony
PLAY
PLAY
PLAY
Muri Lagoon
Palolo Deep Marine Reserve
Sigatoka town
Visit this Saturday market for some of the best food in town. Try the raw fish and chop suey (stir-fried beef noodles) for a taste of local cuisine. Rarotonga’s beautiful lagoon is best explored on a day cruise. In between snorkelling, you’ll be treated to ukulele music, coconut husking, weaving demonstrations, and a delicious barbecue feast. AFTER DARK
The Hula Bar Photos: © Ben Thouard; iStock; Samoa Tourism; © Chris McLennan
Upolu, Samoa
This bar at the Islander Hotel comes to life in the afternoon. There’s a pool to cool down in, water views and an awesome happy hour. DAY TRIP
Aitutaki
Your taste buds will be tempted by all the rows of tropical fruits and veggies on display and freshly-made Samoan delicacies to nibble on. This shallow reef teeming with marine life is just a short walk from the heart of Apia. Time your visit with high tide to ensure you can snorkel or swim around the reserve. AFTER DARK
Fia Fia
The Sheraton Samoa Aggie Grey’s Resort puts on an incredible Polynesian cultural show every Friday night. See the incredible fire dancers light up the night sky. DAY TRIP
Papase’ea Sliding Rocks
Of course, it’s better to spend a couple of nights here, but you can do Aitutaki in a day. A scenic flight can get you to the spectacular lagoon in just 45 minutes.
Make a date with the Papase’ea Sliding Rocks. Perfect for young and old, these natural waterslides (the longest is 5m), surrounding waterfalls and plunge pools are a beautiful place to beat the heat.
SECRET TIP
SECRET TIP
Insider info
Insider info
Try to visit in late July or early August during Te Maeva Nui festival to experience the very best of island culture.
When visiting local villages, make sure to ask your host before taking any photos, and refrain from wearing anything too revealing.
It’s not exactly eating, but partaking in a kava ceremony is by far the top ‘dining’ experience to have. Kava is an acquired taste, but it’s a link to Fijians’ ancestral past. You’ll get the full rural experience in this tiny town, with local markets overflowing with fresh fruits. AFTER DARK
Port at Denarau
You’ll find a mix of high-end and budgetfriendly retail stores, as well as heaps of restaurants and bars specialising in Fijian flavours and entertainment. DAY TRIP
Sigatoka River Safari
Jump on board a jet boat to a small inland village. You’ll spend some time soaking up the scenery, before joining the locals for a traditional village lunch. SECRET TIP
Insider info
It’s worth paying extra for private transfers to your resort if you’re staying on the Coral Coast. It’s about an hour’s drive from the airport, and takes even longer if you have to drop other passengers off along the way.
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The CHALLENGE OUR TRAVEL EXPERTS SHOW YOU THAT TRAVELLING TO YOUR DREAM SOUTH PACIFIC DESTINATION IS POSSIBLE, REGARDLESS OF YOUR BUDGET OR TIME CONSTRAINTS.
Fiji for the budget savvy $$
KELLY BEVAN, FLIGHT CENTRE FIRLE, SA
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Fiji isn’t all 5-star resorts and fine dining. This island nation is abundant with things to do for those looking for an affordable and easy getaway.
Play
Experience one: If you’re not planning to wine and dine in 5-star style, a cooking class is a great way to combine an activity with Fiji’s incredibly fresh fare. Set aside half a day for a hands-on class at The Flavours of Fiji cooking school on Denarau Island. At your own fully equipped workstation, you’ll learn how to create Fijian and Indo-Fijian dishes and sweets with the help of local hosts. You’ll also learn about local traditions and cooking techniques and get to enjoy your creations afterwards. Cooking not your forte? You can pick up cheap eats at roadside stalls (think curry and chips for as little as A$5) or create your own picnic platter to enjoy under the shade of a palm tree from the abundance of fresh local produce and snacks at marketplaces like Nadi Produce Market. Experience two: Check out Zip Fiji for a fun-filled day among the treetops. Take your pick from a number of zip-line courses, including a location just outside Nadi and an eco reserve 25 minutes from Pacific Harbour, Fiji’s adventure capital. Here, eight zip-lines stretch over a green oasis, taking riders on exhilarating flights through the rainforest canopy. Each platform and zip-line offers incredible and unique views over the Fijian landscape.
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Stay
Fiji Hideaway Resort and Spa: Located on the Coral Coast, this resort is perfect for a ‘flop and drop’ island experience, and is popular with families and couples – think airy bures and spacious villas opening up to water views, just steps from the sand. Dining options cater to all tastes, and your dollar will stretch further with daily happy hour specials at Coco Bar. There are activities galore to keep you active, and a day spa if you prefer indulging in head-to-toe pampering. Kids aren’t forgotten either, with a dedicated kids club. Beachcomber Island Resort: From dorm rooms to private lodges to oceanfront bures with all the trimmings, Beachcomber is best suited to the young and young at heart, and groups of couples and friends travelling together. This Mamanuca Islands resort is on its own private island, surrounded by the pristine seas of a marine sanctuary. What you save on accommodation can be put towards an extensive array of activities, including jetskiing, ocean trampolining, kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding.
Travel to Fiji on a budget
Flight Centre has great deals on packages to Fiji throughout the year. Keep an eye out for sales and visit your closest store to chat to a Travel Expert about getting the best rate. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.
Fiji for the luxury lover $$$$
CHRIS EIG, FLIGHT CENTRE BURNSIDE, SA
From private islands to butler service, few places do luxury quite like Fiji does.
Play
Experience one: Head up into the clouds on an unforgettable helicopter flight. These 25- and 35-minute scenic journeys take off from Nadi International Airport and Denarau, and soar over Fiji’s bottle-green interiors for a front-row pass to the dramatic gorges and waterfalls of Mount Evans Range, Fiji’s fourth highest peak. The 35-minute flight also includes a glimpse at the jewels of the Mamanuca Islands. Or, you can amp up the experience with a whole-day excursion. This luxurious day out includes a scenic helicopter flight to the stunning shores of Yadua Island, where you’ll spend the day swimming, snorkelling, exploring and enjoying an indulgent three-course picnic lunch on the beach. Experience two: Discover the Upper Navua Gorge on a rafting tour. This rugged gorge slices through the remote highlands of Viti Levu – a far departure from the usual Fiji scene of swaying palms lined up along brilliant blue seas. You’ll board an inflatable raft for a comfortable guided journey through kilometres of waterways, past rushing waterfalls, dense vegetation and black volcanic walls. This isn’t a wild, adventurous ride, but a relaxing journey through one of Fiji’s most undiscovered and pristine locations. A real must on any Fiji itinerary!
Stay
Sofitel Fiji Resort and Spa: Uncompromised luxury is the name of the game here, where the suites are appointed in a timeless style with contemporary comforts, and most feature views of the water. If you can tear yourself away from the sprawling outdoor swimming pool, you can enjoy the day spa, four eclectic restaurants, three bars and, of course, a medley of watersports. The newest addition to the Sofitel is the Waitui Beach Club, a private adults-only oasis with a pool, butler service and range of wellness options. Royal Davui Island Resort: Breakfast on the beach with champagne; island-inspired treatments at the indulgent Davui Spa; a private island, which you can swim around in 40 minutes… This adults-only paradise is what honeymooners’ dreams are made of. The resort’s villas are placed so it feels like you’re the only ones there. Other ways to while away your days in this paradise include sipping cocktails on your bure deck, included non-motorised watersports and off-island cultural excursions.
Live it up in Fiji
There are many luxury holidays to Fiji on offer. Chat to your Flight Centre Travel Expert about your needs and they will find the perfect indulgent holiday for you. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.
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The CHALLENGE continues
Vanuatu for one week
BRODIE MCHENRY FLIGHT CENTRE DEVONPORT, TAS
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Vanuatu is an easy escape, no matter if you’re travelling with your beloved or every family member in tow.
One week with the whole family
Play: Port Vila is a treasure trove of sights, and one of the most exciting ways to explore is on a buggy adventure. Strap on a helmet, start up your engines and hit the road, taking in farmland, beachfronts and city streets. It’s a wild adventure through muddy terrain, so be sure to bring a towel to wipe yourself and the kids down. The jungle safari will pass through villages, where you’ll be greeted by smiling kids. Hot tip: pack some knickknacks or lollies to hand out – the kids will love it. Another must-do (if you need a break from all that relaxing) is joining a glass-bottom boat and snorkelling safari tour. Mums and dads, little ones and even teenagers will get a kick out of viewing Vanuatu’s fantastic underwater world through the glass bottom of the boat on the way out to sea, before plunging into the water to get up close and personal with colourful marine life. Stay: The Terraces in Port Vila offer apartmentstyle accommodation set high atop a cliff. Full kitchens in each apartment and access to local produce means self-catering is easy, and helps keep dining out costs down for larger family groups. Everyone can make use of the tennis court and enjoy a splash in the beautiful infinity pool in between activities.
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One week with your loved one
Play: Hop on board a timber sailing ketch for a cruise to a deserted isle just beyond Port Vila. The Coongoola Day Cruise is great for anyone dreaming of secluded coves, untouched beaches and Vanuatu’s technicoloured underwater world. Soak up the sun as you take a relaxing cruise around Port Havannah Harbour, before snorkelling and enjoying a relaxed barbecue lunch. If you’re looking for a romantic and off-thebeaten-track experience, take a horseback ride through the rainforest. Suitable for both experienced and inexperienced riders, your route winds through lush island landscapes. After stretching your legs, there’s even time for a quick dip and ride through a lagoon, if you’re game. Stay: The Iririki Island Resort & Spa is a private island paradise and everything you could ever want in a resort. Think bungalow-style rooms, sand at your doorstep, a variety of restaurants and bars, a day spa and tennis court. While it’s secluded, it’s also only a three-minute ferry ride from the heart of Port Vila, so you get the best of both worlds.
Spend a week in paradise
Whoever you want to take, Flight Centre can design a bespoke itinerary just for you. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.
Vanuatu for two weeks
ALLANAH GAVIN, FLIGHT CENTRE SURRY HILLS, NSW
Explore this island paradise in one week under the sun on Efate Island, or add an extra week in peaceful Tanna for an extended holiday
Week one
Play: To add a cultural element to your Vanuatu vacay, head out of Port Vila town to Erakor to visit the Ekasup Cultural Village. The chief will welcome you warmly to the village, before inviting you to join in activities that make up the local way of life. You’ll learn how native products are used in medicine and food preservation; weave mats and hats; and help prepare the local dish of laplap, a steamed speciality of pounded root vegetables in taro leaves. Vanuatu sunsets are some of the South Pacific’s most magical, and a sunset cruise is one of the best ways to enjoy the changing crimson colours of the afternoon. Hop aboard a small-ship, with room for up to 50 people, to enjoy a lively afternoon sailing the calm waters of Mele Bay. A spread of gourmet cheese platters, canapes, local beer and wine is also provided to complete the experience. Stay: Hide away at the Eratap Beach Resort, a luxurious resort located 20 minutes outside of Port Vila. Accommodation is suitable for friends, families and couples alike, and includes honeymoon villas with private plunge pools and the sprawling three-bedroom villa on the water’s edge.
Week two
Play: The biggest drawcard of Tanna is its active volcano: Mount Yasur. It’s an easy hike to its rim, but it’s best to go with a guide. An early-morning pick-up will take you through a landscape of jungle and coffee plantations, before hitting the trail for the 10-minute climb to its peak. Peering into its crimson cavern is a sight you’ll never forget. You can also take a scenic flight over the island. Tanna has myriad other sights that are often overshadowed by Mount Yasur. Get back to nature near the village of Leitouapam to the see the giant banyan tree, a truly impressive tangle of hanging vines; enjoy the impressive fire dancing of John Frum Village (you’ll need a local guide); and spend some time at Port Resolution enjoying its market stalls, restaurants and nearby marine sanctuary. Stay: Friendly Beach is on the remote coast of Tanna, just 6km from the ash plains of Mount Yasur. Here, it’s all about getting back to nature – there are no televisions and no internet access and only three thatched-roof villas, which are able to accommodate up to four guests each.
While the time away
No matter how long you have to explore Vanuatu, Flight Centre has a deal to suit. Keep an eye out for sale fares on flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.
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What’s the best time of year to visit the South Pacific?
Travel clinic
FLIGHT CE N T R E T R AV E L E X P E R T S SHARE TH E IR TIP S F OR A SU P E R HOLIDAY IN TH E S OU TH PACIF IC
What’s the best way to access cash in the Cook Islands? Bring cash and a credit card or currency card. The Cook Islands currency is the New Zealand Dollar, and cash is best for market knickknacks, bars and dining out. Hotels and resorts take card payments, and there are ATMs to easily withdraw cash from. If you don’t want to use your credit card, prepaid travel money cards are great; you can load up a number of different currencies at a locked-in exchange rate.
Are shore excursions worthwhile on a cruise through the South Pacific? In the bigger ports like Port Vila and Noumea, you’ll have your pick of some amazing shore excursions, from city tours and foodie walks to snorkelling with sea turtles. In the smaller ports, like Mystery Island or Isle of Pines, it’s easy to explore at your leisure. Make sure you pick up a snorkel and mask before you head off though, as there are some amazing coral reefs fit for exploration.
MONIQUE DALTON, FLIGHT CENTRE BROADWAY, NSW
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PATRICK SCULLY, FLIGHT CENTRE MELBOURNE, VIC
We’d love to take the kids to Bora Bora. Is it a family-friendly destination? Its appeal as a romantic destination is unquestionable, but this incredible island has much to offer families. Like other South Pacific islands, you won’t walk far at all before locals are cooing and fussing over your young ones, welcoming them with open arms and dazzling smiles. You’ll find sprawling villas all over the island, perfect for multi-generational escapes, as well as incredible facilities for kids at resorts like the Four Seasons, complete with its own private island for teens and world-class kids clubs. Plus, water sports galore, squeaky white-sand beaches, technicolour reefs filled with tropical marine life will keep everyone entertained for days.
STACEY MARTIN, FLIGHT CENTRE NORTH LAKES, QLD
The South Pacific only has two distinct periods: wet and dry. November to April is when you can expect balmy days and heavy rainfall, although showers never last for long, save for the odd hurricane or cyclone (always a risk for these destinations at this time of year). If you’re keen to celebrate New Year’s Eve, Fiji comes to life with a heavy dose of island-style celebrations. May to October is generally regarded as the best time to visit this tropical region, as the days are sunny and humidity eases, which makes for optimal conditions for getting active and exploring. If you’re planning a romantic getaway for two, try and avoid the busy school holiday periods when many families flock to these sunny shores.
ALEXANDRA BAMFORTH, FLIGHT CENTRE RIVERTON, WA
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