Tatyanaleonov higherview barossa by Tatyana Leonov

THE B A R O S S A VA L L E Y

葡萄逃生

THE GRAPE

ESCAPE

Rows and rows of vineyards, picturesque villages, charming shops – South Australia’s Barossa Valley ticks all the boxes for an idyllic weekend getaway, writes Tatyana Leonov 整齐划一的葡萄园、风景如画的村庄、独特别致的商铺，南澳大利亚的巴罗萨谷（Barossa Valley）让您远离尘世纷扰，度过一个惬意无比的周末

ust over an hour’s drive north of Adelaide lies the Barossa Valley – a stunning region recognised as one of Australia’s most illustrious wine-producing districts and continuously acknowledged as a foodie’s paradise. The backdrop isn’t something to sneer at either – luscious valleys, verdant fields, vineyards aplenty, and even a few streets lined with Canary Island date palms. These distinctive trees are not native to Australia, but offer a spectacular driving experience and come with a heartwarming story: during the Great Depression, Seppeltsfield Winery put its nose to the grindstone and managed to avoid laying off its employees. As a thank you, the vineyard and cellar door workers decided to beautify the grounds and surrounding streets by planting thousands of palms. >

从

阿德莱德出发，向北驱车一小时，就能抵达巴罗萨谷。这里风景秀丽，不仅是澳大利亚最负盛名的产酒区之一，同时也是美食爱好者的天堂。巴罗萨谷周围的环境也同样让人心旷神怡：峡谷里的空气总弥漫着甘甜香味，田间草地绿意盎然，还有广阔的葡萄园和街道两边整齐排列的加拿利海枣树。这些能为游人带来了绝妙驾车体验的特殊树种并非出自澳洲本土，背后还有一个感人的故事：在经济大萧条时期，沙普酒庄（Seppeltsfield）坚持苦心经营，与员工同舟共济，没有解雇一名员工。作为对主人的报答，葡萄园和酒窖里的工人决定共同将酒庄打造得更加美丽。于是，他们在葡萄园周围种下了成千上万棵海枣树。 >

THE B A R O S S A VA L L E Y

The history of Barossa goes further back, of course. The English and Germans were the first pioneers to settle in the valley in 1842, and the remnants of their lives remain scattered throughout. Wine production began soon after they discovered Barossa’s fertile soil was ideal for grape growing. The Germans brought their culinary customs too, and with not much to their name started afresh, building beautiful homes fit out with traditional wood ovens, planting crops of fruits and vegetables, and using their knowledge to build a new life for themselves. The Barossa Valley became a food and wine hub pretty quickly thanks to these innovative settlers, and today visitors come from far and wide to experience the culinary culture and soak up the extraordinary Barossa vibe. It’s not just about eating the produce and drinking the wine though. The Barossa food and wine experience is about doing, making and learning – so arrive Friday morning, leave Sunday afternoon and take your time to really get to know the Barossa.

FRIDAY I’M IN LOVE

Start the day by taking in your surrounds at Mengler Hill Lookout. Beautiful vistas are a big part of the Barossa experience and seeing the region from up high helps put the splendour in perspective. Getting around the Barossa is most convenient by car, so regardless of whether you hire your own vehicle or get chauffeured around, there are plenty of opportunities to take in eye-level panoramas when travelling from point A to point B. Spend the morning taking it slow on the road to enjoy the landscape, stopping wherever you think there’s a photo opportunity (hint: you will need to be selective). For lunch, enjoy a modern take on Vietnamese food at fermentAsian. Vietnamese chef-owner Tuoi Do has been wowing locals and visitors since she opened her modern Southeast Asian restaurant in 2011. Her husband, sommelier Grant Dickson of Rockford Wines, does a brilliant job selecting matching

THE B A R O S S A VA L L E Y

wines to go with the cuisine, so sit back and let the connoisseurs show you what they do best. Every day you spend in the Barossa should be matched with at least one dedicated wine experience, so start your wine appreciation journey with a bang by learning to make your own at Penfolds. Launched in 2006, the Make Your Own Blend experience (be sure to book ahead) is a fascinating way to learn about one of Australia’s finest wine producers by experimenting with your own interpretation of what it is to craft quality wine. During the interactive class guests formulate their own wine amalgamation using Shiraz, Mataro and Grenache (these three varieties have been grown in the Barossa for over 150 years and are the constituents used to create the Penfolds Bin 138 Barossa Valley Shiraz Grenache Mataro). “It’s an interactive and hands-on experience that offers our guests an opportunity to learn about the blending process – and the skill required by our winemakers to produce exceptional wine,” Amanda Scheiner, Penfolds cellar door manager, explains. “Guests love that they get to work in the winemakers’ laboratory and enjoy the challenge of creating a finished wine that they can take home in an individual bottle.” After the best ‘lesson’ you’ve probably ever had, check in to The Louise, a luxurious property nestled among vineyards and offering sweeping vistas of the valley. Though it’s easy to stay in once you’ve arrived (classic music is played as you step into your accommodation, all rooms are elegantly appointed; everything is divine), finish the day on a high note with a lavish dinner at the on-site restaurant. Together with his team, executive chef Ryan Edwards designs gastronomic masterpieces utilising the best seasonal local produce and doing as much as possible by hand (they bake their own breads and butcher and cure their own meats). Book months ahead to secure a seat and select the tasting menu to indulge in what chef thinks is best. >

“巴罗萨谷美食美酒的精髓在于学习和创造，想要从中获得真实体验，就需要自己动手和学习”

Above: Sunset at The Louise’s on-site restaurant, Appellation Below: Penfolds Make Your Own Wine tour (left); Appellation grazing board paired with wine (right)

当然，巴罗萨谷的历史更为悠久。1842 年，英国人和德国人最先在山谷里定居下来，他们的生活遗迹至今仍在山谷里零星可见。而正是这些人发现巴罗萨谷的土壤十分肥沃，非常适宜种植葡萄，于是当地的酿酒业就从那时快速兴起。德国人还将他们的饮食文化带到了这片土地，几乎是白手起家，建造起漂亮的房屋，并配备了传统的木制烤炉。他们还栽种蔬菜瓜果，凭借自己的智慧开创了全新的生活。巴罗萨谷之所以能够迅速成为美食美酒中心，要归功于那些充满创新精神的移民们。现在有许多游客远道而来，正是为了体验此处的饮食文化，感受巴罗萨谷的独特氛围。当然，在巴罗萨谷游玩并不仅限于品尝当地的美酒佳肴。巴罗萨谷美食美酒的精髓在于学习和创造，想要从中获得真实体验，就需要自己动手和学习。所以建议您在周五早上就抵达巴罗萨谷，一直待到周日下午，不紧不慢地真正了解这个地方。周五您的旅程可以从文娜斯山（Mengler Hill）瞭望台开始，在那里饱览山谷全景，将壮丽风光尽收眼底。在巴罗萨谷游玩，不管是自驾或是找人代驾，汽车是最方便的交通工具。花一个上午的时间，在路上徐徐行驶，徜徉在瑰丽的风景里。您也可以随时在路边停靠，进行拍照留念（温馨提示：拍照地点要有所选择）。临近午餐，就可以去fermentAsia品尝一下越南美食。越南老板Tuoi Do女士亲自掌勺，从2011年这家现代东南亚饭店开张起，她的烹饪技术让许多当地人和游客感到惊艳。Tuoi Do的丈夫格兰特·迪克逊（Grant Dickson）来自罗克福德（Rockford）酒庄，是一位出色的配酒师。他总能根据不同的菜色挑选出绝配的美酒，而您所要做的就是坐在餐桌边，享受行家为您提供的最佳服务。在巴罗萨谷，每一天都应该至少和葡萄酒来一次亲密接触。在奔富酒庄（Penfolds）>

THE B A R O S S A VA L L E Y

“Take your time to stroll through the premises, chatting to the producers and growers to gain an understanding of the dynamic foodie scene”

SATURDAY SPECIAL

Rise early and head straight to the Barossa Farmers Market for fresh farmgate produce. Held every Saturday morning in the historic Vintners Shed, a visit here is a chance to stock up on food grown and produced by the locals. Many offerings are organic, a lot of the fruits for sale have been picked that morning, and everything is delicious! Take your time to stroll through the premises, chatting to the producers and growers to gain an understanding of the dynamic foodie scene. Pack a picnic basket while shopping at the markets and enjoy a scenic drive around the valley before stopping for lunch at the Whispering Wall. Built between 1899 and 1903, this preserved wall of the Barossa Reservoir is fascinating because of its unusual acoustic effects – anything whispered at one end of the wall can be heard on the other, over 100 metres away! Dedicate the afternoon to Seppeltsfield. Established by the Seppelt family in the early 1850s, the historic winery grounds and gardens are classified as a historic village by the State Heritage Act. Touring the beautiful expanse is a charming (and educational) way to while away the afternoon. Seppeltsfield is the only winery in the world to release a 100-year-old port every year, and the Taste Your Birth Year Tour (2:30pm daily, bookings required) 76

offers a delightful way to learn about how this special custom was founded, as well as sample port created the year you were born. It’s the only place in the world where you can do this, and should most definitely be a must-do on any Barossa itinerary. Continue your wine appreciation education with the 3:30pm Heritage Tour (11:30am and 3:30pm daily, bookings required), where you’ll join a wine guru on an expedition through the grounds (with stops at the distillery, barrel cellar and underground blending cellar) while learning about the Seppelt family and how they shaped Barossa’s wine trade. The tour fittingly ends in the old bottling hall – the place to sample Seppeltsfield drops and stock up on bottles to take home. Then it’s onto Hentley Farm for more wine tasting before a beautiful dinner you’ll be talking about for years to come. When Keith Hentschke founded Hentley Farm his vision was to find land that would allow him to grow and forage produce in unique ways. Today the way the Hentley Farm team champions the soil is a key contributor of its success, and the boutique wines made on premises are certainly worth sampling. Headed up by chef Lachlan Colwill, the restaurant, housed in the stylishly renovated stables, has won a plethora of awards since its foundation in 2012. Feasting here is one of the highlights of the Barossa. >

Above: Locals at the Barossa Farmers Market Right (clockwise from top): Foraging at Hentley Farm; behind the scenes at Seppeltsfield; Wine tasting at Hentley Farm Cellar Door; Head Chef at Hentley Farm, Lachlan Colwill, puts his final touches on a dish

学习调酒绝对可以作为您品酒旅程的精彩开始。 “自制混酿（Make Your Own Blend）” 活动（需提前预约）最早从2006年开始，您可以按照自己的理解尝试调制优质葡萄酒，以此真正认识澳洲其中一家最好的酿酒商。在互动课堂上，客人们可以将西拉、玛塔罗和歌海娜混合调制出独家美酒。这三个品种的葡萄已在巴罗萨谷生长了一个半世纪，是奔富BIN138红葡萄酒以及巴罗萨谷山谷的西拉-歌海娜-玛塔罗干红葡萄酒的原材料。奔富酒窖经理阿曼达·埃尔德（Amanda Elder）女士表示： “这是一个自我体验、当然也不乏互动的过程，我们的顾客能够有机会从中认识混合制酒过程以及酿酒师的高超酿酒技术。客人喜欢在酿酒师的实验室里工作，享受酿制美酒的过程，并且可以将自己的成果装瓶带回家。” 结束这门课程后，可以前往路易斯酒店（The Louise）。这是一处位于葡萄园间的奢华所在，在那里极目远眺，欣赏山谷风光。入住即可享受各种便捷的服务：一踏进客房，古典音乐随即自动响起，所有房间都布置得十分典雅……一切都是如此精致。最后，您可以在酒店里的Appellation餐厅享用丰富的晚餐，为这一天画下一个完美句号。主厨莱安·爱德华（Ryan Edwards）以及他的团队用最新鲜的应季菜蔬，为您呈上一道道美味佳肴。如果想尝到主厨的手艺，需要提前几个月预订和点单。周六早起之后直接前往巴罗萨谷农贸市场，在那里可以买到新鲜的农产品。农贸市场位于历史悠久的维特那小屋（Vintners Shed），只在每周六早上开放，市场上可以买到由当地人种植或养殖的新鲜食品。这其中有许多有机食品，还有各种当天早上才采摘下来的水果，每一样都十分美味诱人！您可以不慌不忙地在摊位间溜达，跟菜农们闲聊几句，融入到这热闹非凡的美食盛会中。在农贸市场购物的时候，可以顺便打包好野餐篮，驱车前往回音壁（Whispering Wall）吃一顿午餐，还能顺便浏览沿途风景。回音壁建造于1899年和1903年间，位于巴罗萨谷水库，因其独特的声音特效吸引了诸多观光客。游客可以站在墙壁两头，就算相距足足100多米，还能听到互相之间的悄声细语！您可以在沙普酒庄度过整个下午的时间。酒庄由沙普家族建立于19世纪50年代，酒庄内部的酿酒场及花园都带有浓厚的历史气息— —目前已受国家遗产法保护。在这样一个景色怡人的地方度过午后时光，定让人流连忘返。沙普酒庄每年会拿出一瓶 100年陈酿的波特酒（port）供客人品尝，这在世界范围内也仅此一家。另外，酒庄还每天举办“尝尝跟您同年生的美酒”活动（每天下午2:30开始，需预约）。这些活动让游客在娱乐中了解庄园特殊传统的由来，而且还能喝到与自己同年“出生”的波特酒。世界上只有这里提供这些服务，所 > 77

THE B A R O S S A VA L L E Y

Together with his team Lachlan focuses on sourcing fresh-as-possible produce. “We work on three boundaries,” he explains. “First we focus on produce farmed or growing wild on the Hentley Farm site; this supplies us with all our fruits and vegetables. Second we travel throughout the Barossa to find the best products available – often meats and game birds. Third we look to the rest of South Australia, which in my mind is one of the best locations in terms of quality and sustainability in produce in all of the world, particularly for its seafood.” Patrons can choose from two set menu options (the Discovery menu or the du Jour menu), with matching wines highly recommended for the ultimate epicurean experience. Remember to book ahead.

SUNDAY BEST

There aren’t many better ways to culminate the Barossa experience than with a scenic helicopter flight over the valley. Cherry-pick from Barossa Helicopters’ variety of flight-tour options, then sit back and enjoy the panoramic views as the helicopter soars over the picturesque expanse. Be sure to bring a camera to record the unforgettable flight, as this is one memory you’ll certainly want to share with family and friends. If you’re feeling generous you’ll probably also purchase a variety of Barossa wines to take home.

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And if you’ve still got space in your luggage, Barossa-made produce makes for a good gift too – and Maggie Beer’s Farm Shop is the perfect place to stock up and grab lunch on your way out. The legendary cook, writer, television personality and founder of Maggie Beer products is one of Australia’s most respected foodie personalities, and her farm shop is so much more than a typical store. The first point of difference is that visitors are encouraged to roam around the shop and taste all of Maggie Beer’s products – a rarity in Australia and probably anywhere in the world. This is ‘try before you buy’ in the truest sense of the phrase. Another point of difference is the free daily Verjuice demonstrations. Maggie was the first person in the world to manufacture the grape juice product commercially (Verjuice is a non-alcoholic product derived from the juice of unfermented grapes), and during the demonstration attendees are shown how to use Verjuice when cooking (more free tastings included). Stock up on whatever you desire to take home, then order a Picnic Fare basket (think tasty, house-made pates, woodfire-oven-baked breads and sweets made from fruits grown on-site) and enjoy a casual al fresco lunch overlooking the pond. It’s a lovely spot to conclude the weekend – and perhaps start planning your next visit.

Below: Maggie Beer at the Farmers Market Right: Take a break at the lookout over the lake at Maggie Beer’s Farmshop

MUST VISIT FERMENTASIAN 90 Murray Street fermentasian.com.au

PENFOLDS Tanuda Road

penfolds.com.au

THE LOUISE & APPELLATION Corner Seppeltsfield and Stonewall Roads thelouise.com.au

BAROSSA FARMERS MARKET Corner of Stockwell and Nuriootpa Roads

barossafarmersmarket.com

SEPPELTSFIELD WINES Seppeltsfield Road seppeltsfield.com.au

HENTLEY FARM WINES Corner of Jenke and Gerald Roberts Roads hentleyfarm.com.au

MAGGIE BEER’S FARM SHOP 50 Pheasant Farm Road

maggiebeer.com.au

以沙普酒庄算是在巴罗萨谷游玩的必到之处。下午3:3 0，搭上“遗迹观光之旅”（每天早上11:30或下午3:30，需提前预约）继续学习品酒。您将在一位葡萄酒大师的带领下游遍庄园，途中经停酿酒厂、酒窖和混合地窖，让您能够对沙普家族有所了解，并且知道他们是如何经营红酒生意的。古老的装瓶大厅是旅程的终点站，在这里您可以品尝并装瓶带走一些葡萄酒。接下来可以去亨特利农场（H e nt l ey Farm）品尝更多的葡萄酒，然后享用一顿足以让您在日后津津乐道许多年的晚餐。庄主凯斯·汉斯克（Keith Hentschke）在建立亨特利农场的时候，他的初衷是用自己独特的方式来进行种植和饲养。亨特利农场团队的土地经营方式是他们获得成功的重要因素，他们所酿造的葡萄酒皆属精品，绝对值得品尝。饭店由主厨拉克兰·科尔威尔（Lachlan Colwill）带领，设立在翻新后的马厩里，可谓风格迥异。这家饭店于2012年建成，自那以后获得了大大小小许多奖项，在这里饕餮

一番绝对算是巴罗萨谷之行的亮点。拉克兰（Lachlan）和他的团队一起，精心选用最新鲜的食材。他表示：“食材挑选工作分在三块区域进行。首先，我们会集中在亨特利农场上寻找人工种植或是野生的食材（所有的蔬菜瓜果）；接着，我们会跑遍巴罗萨谷寻找最佳食材（往往是肉类和猎鸟）；最后，我们会将眼光放到南澳其它地方。在我认为，南澳算是世界上为数不多能够源源不断供应优质食材的地方，尤其是海鲜。” 有两种菜单可供选择（“Discovery”系列或“Du Jour系列），每种都有搭配的美酒，让您尽享极致体验。请记得提前预约。周日要想在巴罗萨谷之旅中画上一个完美的句号，恐怕没有什么比搭乘直升机环谷周游更好的选择了。您只需从巴罗萨谷直升机之旅的各种航程中挑出所爱，然后坐上直升机，尽情陶醉在苍穹之下的锦绣河山中。如果预算充足，也可以购买各种佳酿带回家。倘若旅行箱有足够空间的话，那么买一些“巴罗萨谷制造”的礼物也是不错的

选择——在玛姬·比尔（Maggie Beer）的农场商店购物、吃午餐是个不错的选择。玛姬·比尔的主人是一位充满传奇色彩的厨师、作家和电视名人，也是澳大利亚最受尊敬的著名美食家之一，她开设的农场自然也与众不同。第一个与众不同之处是在于游客可以随意在商店闲逛，品尝玛姬·比尔店内的所有产品，是真正意义上的先尝后买。这在澳大利亚，甚至是在全世界都难得一见。另外一个特别之处是这里每天都可以参加免费的酸葡萄汁使用示范会。玛姬是世界上第一位贩卖葡萄汁产品的人（酸葡萄汁榨取于未发酵的葡萄，不含酒精），在示范过程中，参与者可以学习在烹饪时如何使用酸葡萄汁（包括品尝酸果汁）。在店里买齐想带回家的产品后，可以点一个野餐篮（里面有美味的家常馅饼、柴火烘焙的面包和以在农场栽种的水果所制作出来的糖果），然后在户外的池塘边悠闲地享受午餐。在这样一个令人愉悦的地方结束这个周末，或者开始规划下次旅游，是再理想不过的了。 79