Tatyanaleonov higherview goldcoast by Tatyana Leonov

GOLD COAST

黄金与海岸

While winter tightens its grip on many parts of Australia, the Gold Coast sticks to what it knows best – sun, surf and sea, writes Tatyana Leonov 澳大利亚的许多地方都渐渐进入寒冬，黄金海岸却仍然风采依旧—— 阳光、海浪与大海

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reamy beaches fit for a postcard. Towering hotels of polished concrete and glass boasting some of Australia’s best ocean views. A diverse range of shopping experiences spanning everything from lively outdoor malls to intimate luxury boutiques. And so many activities on offer it would be a challenge to even contemplate trying them all in one visit. In juxtaposition, there’s the hinterland – a lush vastness of rainforests and home to Queensland’s oldest national park – and all this only 45 minutes’ drive away from the seaside. If there is one destination in Australia that has it all, it’s the almost-always-sunny Gold Coast. The summers are spectacular, but winter is the best time to visit. The cooler months usually mean fewer people to share the beaches and forests with and more time experiencing everything the region has to offer.

LUXE STAYS

Deciding where to stay is one of the hardest decisions, with everything from plush suites overlooking iconic Surfers Paradise to secluded rainforest retreats or glitzy modern hotels. The best way to tackle the where-to-stay challenge is to try out a couple of places every time you visit. The breathtaking skyline and buzzy atmosphere is one of the many reasons people choose to stay at Surfers Paradise. Over 40 percent of the Gold Coast’s accommodation is located here. If you’re looking to mingle with the Gold Coast elite, then your first port of call should be QT Gold Coast. Opened in 2011, the bold and bright design scheme is 82

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still a talking point with travellers. Nic Graham, the brain behind the innovative design concept, used the 1950s and 1960s as stimulus for his refreshing design – and it’s all about quirky-cool fused with modern-luxe. Explosions of bright colour in the form of contemporary artworks and attention-grabbing furnishings are part of the effect. There are plenty of patterns scattered throughout, and pieces, such as Eames-era chairs and artist-created feature walls, are all fun inclusions. If something classic tickles your fancy, Surfers Paradise Marriott Resort & Spa is a luxury resort retreat amidst the buzz. All the rooms are exceptional, but for the utmost indulgence book a suite with Elandra Retreat Club access. The views from the 27th floor lounge are unsurpassed and breakfasts and evening canapes are part of the package. There’s really no better place to watch the sunrise, and days can be spent exploring the grounds or lazing about in the one of the hotel’s plush poolside cabins. You can even step out of your room and swim with tropical fish in the hotel’s saltwater lagoon. If you’re an avid surfer and it’s all about waves, the Sheraton Grand Mirage Resort is the only five-star resort on the Gold Coast with direct beach access. Perfectly positioned on Main Beach, the location is also ideal for families wanting to check out some of the theme parks around. Sofitel Gold Coast Broadbeach is another chic choice for guests not wanting to stay at Surfers Paradise. Just five minutes walk from Pacific Fair Shopping Centre and linked to Oasis Shopping Centre, it’s an ideal place to stay if shopping is on the cards. >

梦

幻般的沙滩非常适合制成明信片；混凝土玻璃结构的酒店耸立云霄，在上面能欣赏到澳大利亚最美的海景；从熙熙攘攘的户外购物中心到私密的奢侈品精品店，多种购物体验供您选择；此外还有许许多多的活动等待您的参与……如此多的选择，让人眼花缭乱，想要一次就全部体验这一切是几乎不可能完成的任务。除此之外，还有黄金海岸腹地等待您的发掘。这里有一大片苍翠繁茂的原始森林，也是昆士兰州最古老的国家公园所在地，而且距海边仅45分钟车程。如果说澳大利亚有一个旅游胜地可以满足您的一切需求，那必定是几乎永远阳光明媚的黄金海岸。黄金海岸的夏天十分引人入胜，但其实冬季才是到这儿旅游的最佳时间。冬季天气更为凉爽，到沙滩和森林游玩的游客通常会更少，让您有更多时间去体验黄金海岸的一切。豪华住宿黄金海岸提供多种住宿形式，从可以俯瞰标志性的冲浪者天堂（Surfers Paradise）的豪华套房，到幽清安静的森林度假村，再到奢华的现代化酒店，住在哪儿往往是最难做出的决定之一。而解决这个问题的最佳方式就是每次旅行时尝试几个不同的地方。冲浪者天堂十分热闹繁华，还可以欣赏到美到令人窒息的天际线，因而成为许多人的选择。而且，黄金海岸超过40%的住宿之所都集中在这儿。

Above: You don’t have to go to the beach to find water to lounge by Below: QT Gold Coast’s bold, bright colour scheme is always a talking point

如果您想会会黄金海岸的精英名流，那么您的第一站便是QT黄金海岸酒店（QT Gold Coast）。这家于2011年开始营业的酒店，其大胆而鲜亮的创新设计仍然为游客们所津津乐道。设计师尼克·格雷厄姆（Nic Graham）以二十世纪五、六十年代为灵感来源，将新奇酷炫与现代奢华完美结合，风格令人耳目一新。为了达到这种效果，酒店中摆放的当代艺术品和夺人眼球的家具陈设均采用明亮色调。而酒店里随处可见的各种图案，以及Eames Era椅和艺术景观墙面等，都让这里妙趣横生。如果您更喜欢传统的酒店，那么位于闹市之中的豪华度假村酒店滑浪天堂万豪度假酒店（Surfers Paradise Marriott Resort & Spa）是个不错的选择。所有的房间都非常高雅舒适，不过如果您想来一场终极放纵之旅，那就预订27层的Elandra 休闲俱乐部（Elandra Retreat Club）套房吧。这里是看日出的绝佳地点，您可以在起居室眺望到无与伦比的美景；此外，套房套餐还包含早餐及晚餐开胃菜。您可以花几天时间出去转转，也可以躲在酒店豪华的池畔小屋里消闲，甚至还可以走出房间，在酒店的咸水湖里与热带鱼一起畅游。冲浪爱好者不妨下榻黄金海岸蜃景喜来登度假大酒店（Sheraton Grand Mirage Resort），因为它是黄金海岸上唯 > 83

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“黄金海岸的夏天十分引人入胜，但其实冬季才是到这儿旅游的最佳时间”

But no visit to the Gold Coast is complete without a stop at Palazzo Versace, the glamour puss of hotels and certainly a must-see destination in itself. The iconic hotel recently won the Leading Hotel Australasia award in the World Travel Awards, and it’s easy to see why. Gigantic gold columns, a shimmering pink marbled floor and a colossal crystal chandelier in the reception space; glitzy rooms fit out with elegant Italian furnishings; Versace trimmings any way you look – it’s an extravagant decadence and that’s exactly why you book here.

DIVINE EATS

New and battle-seasoned chefs are flocking to the Gold Coast to open their very own Next Big Thing. With an abundance of fresh seafood, organic meats and locally grown vegetables, you’ll be hard-pressed to not find something up your alley. Some of the best restaurants and bars are located inside hotels, so it pays to stay somewhere where the food offerings entice… if you don’t want to walk very far that is. At Palazzo Versace, Vanitas Restaurant has recently undergone an elegant refurbishment. Chef de Cuisine Dayan Hartill-Law (who refined his skills in the kitchens of three-hatted restaurant Quay in Sydney and twoMichelin-Star restaurant Dinner by Heston Blumenthal at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in London) brings his signature whimsical style to the table, focusing on a seasonal menu featuring the freshest local produce. Earlier this year, Sofitel Gold Coast Broadbeach’s elegant restaurant, room81, was awarded two hats by the Australian Good Food Guide – it’s one of just a few two-hatted restaurants in the region. Head chef Sam Moore spotlights local produce, with multi-course degustations the star of the show. 84

Left: Palazzo Versace, whose restaurant is headed by Dayan Hartill-Law Below: There’s something for everyone at QT’s Bazaar

一一家直通沙滩的五星级度假酒店。酒店位于主海滩（Main Beach），地理位置优越，对于要探索周围主题公园的家庭而言也是理想的选择。如果您不想待在冲浪者天堂，那么您可以入住时尚的索菲特黄金海岸宽滩酒店（Sofitel Gold Coast Broadbeach）。酒店与绿洲购物中心（Oasis Shopping Centre）相连，而且步行五分钟即可到达太平洋购物中心（Pacific Fair Shopping Centre），绝对是爱好购物的游客的不二之选。不过，一次完整的黄金海岸之旅怎么能没有范思哲宫殿（Palazzo Versace）呢？范思哲宫殿是一间极富魅力的酒店，本身也是必看的游览地之一。这座标志性酒店最近荣膺世界旅游大奖（Wo r l d Travel Awards）澳大利亚顶级酒店（Leading Hotel Australasia）奖，获奖原因显而易见：雄伟的金色柱子，闪着微光的粉红色大理石地面，接待台附近巨大的枝形水晶灯，配有典雅的意大利家具的华丽房间，以及遍布整个酒店的范思哲装饰品……典雅、华丽、极尽奢华，而这正是您预订范思哲宫殿的原因。饕餮美食不论是初出茅庐的新手，还是身经百战的大厨，都蜂拥到黄金海岸开设自己的餐厅，希望能成为“明日之星”。黄金海岸有着大量的新鲜海鲜、有机肉类和本地种植

For an entertaining teppanyaki experience, Misono Japanese Steakhouse at Surfers Paradise Marriott Resort & Spa can’t be missed. It’s Australia’s largest teppanyaki restaurant and highly recommended for group bookings. Head chef Henry Bongay ensures customers enjoy a great meal with extra helpings of laughter (an insider tip – the deluxe wagyu banquet is a top choice). Another great group option is QT’s Bazaar. The marketplace concept means people with differing palates always find something to suit, with a plethora of fresh salads, piping-hot dishes and seasonal specialties on offer. Of course, beyond the hotels there are hundreds of eateries, cafes and bars to investigate. For the finest seafood, The Fish House in trendy Burleigh Heads was recently awarded second place in the Top 10 Restaurants in Australia in the 2015 TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice Awards. Raw, smoked, fried, grilled… however you like your fish, there’s something on the menu to tempt. Oskars on Burleigh is another neighbourhood gem. The delicately seared Hervey Bay scallops and Moreton Bay bugs are the seafood must-haves. >

的蔬菜，几乎在每条小巷都能找到吃东西的好去处。其中最好的一些餐厅和酒吧就位于各大酒店之内，所以如果您不喜欢走远路，那么住在提供美食佳馔的酒店里十分划得来。范思哲宫殿的Vanitas Restaurant最近刚进行了装修，风格更加高雅。厨师长达扬·哈蒂尔-劳（Dayan Hartill-Law）曾在多家知名餐厅工作，包括荣获三顶厨师帽的悉尼Q u ay 餐厅及伦敦海德公园文华东方酒店（Mandarin Oriental H o t e l ）米其林二星餐厅 D i n n e r b y Heston Blumenthal，不断磨砺自己的厨艺。他将自己标志性的怪异风格融入到美食之中，擅长使用当地最新鲜的食材制作各种应季美食。今年初，位于索菲特黄金海岸宽滩酒店的高档餐厅room81被澳大利亚美食指南（Australian Good Food Guide）评为两顶厨师帽餐厅，成为这个地区为数不多的两帽餐厅之一。主厨山姆·摩尔（Sam Moore）注重使用当地食材，其招牌赏味套餐绝对不容错过。如果您想要来一次愉快的铁板烧体验，那么千万别错过滑浪天堂万豪度假酒店的M i sono日式牛排餐厅（M i sono Japanese Steakhouse）。Misono日式牛排餐厅是澳大利亚最大的铁板烧餐厅，非常适合团体预订。主厨亨利·邦吉（Henry Bongay）不仅能够让食客们享用一顿美餐，他的风趣搞怪肯定能让您开怀一笑（专业建议：首选豪华和牛宴）。团体用餐的另一个好去处是QT酒店的 Bazaar餐厅。餐厅提供大量的新鲜沙拉、滚烫的热炒和各色时令菜品，这种集市大杂烩理念可以让不同口味的人都得到满足。当然，除了各大酒店之外，其他地方也有数百家餐厅、咖啡馆和酒吧值得您去探索一番。要想尝到最优质的海鲜，那就必须到The Fish House来。The Fish House 位于引领时尚风潮的伯利角（B u r l eig h Heads），2015年猫途鹰旅行者之选大奖（2015 TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice Awards）将其列为澳大利亚十佳餐厅中的第二名。不论您喜欢生鱼片、熏鱼、炸鱼还是烤鱼，这儿都能满足您的需求。 Oskars on Burleigh是附近另外一家明星餐厅。经过精心烤制的荷维湾（Hervey Bay）扇贝和摩顿湾（Moreton Bay）小龙虾是海鲜中的精品，必吃的美味。对海鲜不感兴趣？不用担心，您还有别的选择。由马特·杰弗逊（ M a t t J e f f e r s o n ）和艾米·杰弗逊（ A m y Jeffe rson）共同拥有的Soc ialEati ng House + Bar是一家既随意又时髦的餐厅，不管是当地居民还是游客都喜欢到这儿用餐。这家餐厅强调分享，餐厅除少量高档海鲜之外，还供应大量的肉类和蔬菜，其中油封五花肉和滨藜无骨羊肩深得肉食爱好者的喜爱。牛排迷们应直奔The Institution Ale > 85

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Not into seafood? Co-owners Matt and Amy Jefferson manage Social Eating House + Bar, a casually chic eatery popular with residents and visitors alike. The emphasis is on sharing dishes, with plenty of meat and vegetables alongside a few seafood gems. The confit pork belly and boneless saltbush lamb shoulder are popular meat-eaters’ choices. Steak aficionados should head to The Institution Ale House & Dining for the best steak in town. The sophisticated tavern was the winner of the World Steak Challenge in London recently, and judging by the amount of steak-eating patrons, it’s obvious the locals agree. Boom Boom Burgers is another meat-lover’s gem. All the burgers are hand made in-house and the assemblages are something to drool over. The La French burger comes with Angus beef, tapenade, truffle mayonnaise, pickled cauliflower, lettuce and the option of foie gras for extra oomph. Wham Bam Lamb is a prime lamb, smoked buffalo, mozzarella, pesto, smoked tomato and Chipotle mayonnaise delight.

PLAY TIME

If basking in the sun and eating all gets too much, there’s plenty to do and see. And we’re not talking more food (although there are some great foodie experiences around, including funky high tea 86

GOLD COAST

House & Dining去品尝全城最好吃的牛排。这家精致的餐厅是近期在伦敦举行的“世界牛排挑战赛” （World Steak Challenge）冠军得主。根据吃牛排的顾客数量来判断，显然当地人对此称号毫无异议。 Boom Boom Burgers是肉食爱好者的另一块宝地。所有的汉堡均为餐厅手工制作，各色美食令顾客们垂涎三尺。La F r e n c h 汉堡采用安格斯牛肉、瓜榴橄榄凤尾鱼酱、松露蛋黄酱、酸菜花、生菜制作，还可选择加入鹅肝酱以提升口感。Wham Bam Lamb汉堡则包含上等羔羊肉、烟熏水牛肉、莫萨里拉奶酪、香蒜沙司、烟熏番茄和墨西哥辣椒蛋黄酱，给人极大的满足感。黄金海岸的各色餐厅必能挑逗您的味蕾，满足您的口腹之欲！休闲娱乐每天晒晒太阳浴、吃吃美食，您觉得这样的日子过于放纵？不用担心，黄金海岸还提供多种休闲娱乐活动，更有壮美的自然景观期待您的光临。虽然黄金海岸附近有一些非常棒的美食体验，包括QT黄金海岸酒店和滑浪天堂万豪度假酒店的时尚下午茶、QT黄金海岸酒店的龙舌兰酒品鉴课，

Left: The glittering strip looks even better from above Right: It’s called Surfers Paradise for a reason...

“SURFERS PARADISE IS HUMMING WITH ENERGY DAY AND NIGHT, AND WHILE THE ON-GROUND VIEW IS SPECTACULAR, IT’S EVEN BETTER FROM ABOVE.” 美食爱好者还可以参加黄金海岸美食美酒之旅（Gold Coast Food and Wine Tou rs），遍尝伯利（Bu rl eig h）或宽滩（Broadbeach）的各种美食，但我们下面的重点将不再是美食。冲浪者天堂不管白天晚上都人来人往，热闹非凡。虽然在地面上看到的景象就已经很壮丽，但从天上看那感觉更上一层楼。高出海平面270米的Skypoint Climb是澳大利亚最高的、也是给人印象最深刻的建筑外部走道。一旦您到达顶端，就会被蔚为壮观的景象所倾倒。金色的沙滩、蔚蓝的海水以及参差不齐的建筑物所构成的迷人的城市风光。如果您不喜欢高空探险，而是对地面活动情有独钟，那么就去购物吧。仅冲浪者天

堂就有14家不同的购物中心和娱乐中心。除冲浪者天堂之外，其他地方也有许多购物中心。太平洋购物中心刚刚花费6.45 亿澳元完成盛大重装，H&M和日本服装零售商优衣库、奢侈品零售商以及澳大利亚设计师品牌等许多新品牌的入驻，让喜欢购物的人有了更好的选择。花时间去探访自然奇观也是非常明智的选择。每年6月到10月份，在许多海滩上都可以看到鲸鱼跃出水面的景象。您可以选择乘坐游轮，这样能够提高亲眼目睹这种神奇而巨大的生物的几率。然后，您还可以去探访黄金海岸腹地 — — 青翠欲滴的森林、古朴有趣的城镇、迷人可爱的小店、热情友善的当地人，还可以听到许多引人入胜的故事，而这一

concepts at both QT Gold Coast and Surfers Paradise Marriott Resort & Spa, tequila appreciation classes at QT Gold Coast, and a food-lovers tour through Burleigh or Broadbeach with Gold Coast Food and Wine Tours). Surfers Paradise is humming with energy day and night, and while the on-ground view is spectacular, it’s even better from above. Standing 270 metres above sea level, SkyPoint Climb is Australia’s highest – and most impressive – external building climb. Once you reach the top you’re met with supreme views of golden sand, azure blue waters and the jagged Gold Coast cityscape. If you prefer to stay on ground, then shopping is the answer. Surfers Paradise alone is home to 14 different shopping centres and arcades. There’s plenty beyond Surfers Paradise too. Pacific Fair’s $645 million redevelopment has just been completed and avid shoppers now have greater choice, with newcomers H&M and Japanese apparel retailer UNIQLO, luxury retailers, and Australian designers all added to the mix. It’s also sensible to dedicate time to natural wonders. From June to October it’s possible to see whales breaching from many of the beaches. Whale-watching cruises are another way of increasing > the odds of witnessing these magnificent giants. > 87

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Then there’s Gold Coast’s hinterland – verdant greenery, quaint towns, charming shops and friendly locals with fascinating tales to tell – just 45 minutes drive from the glamorous coastal strip. The township of Tamborine Mountain is one of the main attractions and an eccentric delight. Fudge shops, a cuckoo-clock store and a teashop whose claim to fame is stocking Australia’s largest selection of quality loose-leaf teas are some of the unusual finds here. Tamborine Mountain Glow Worm Caves is an underground phenomenon kids rave about. The tour starts with an educational overview of the marvel, then the group enters a dark cave filled with thousands of glowing worms. To conclude your Gold Coast hinterland experience, take a rug and some nibbles to one of the many lookouts on Tamborine Mountain. The sunsets are stunning and most of the lookouts offer panoramas that take in the green expanse of the hinterland, with the Gold Coast’s cityscape and white beaches in the distance. It’s a fitting image that captures the quintessential Gold Coast feel – beaches, city life, forests. No wonder it’s one of Australia’s favourite holiday spots.

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切距离瑰丽的沿海地带只不过45分钟的车程而已。坦伯林山（Tamborine Mountain）小镇是最吸引人的旅游景点之一，古怪却有趣。在这儿您可以找到一些与众不同的小店，包括几家软糖店、一家布谷鸟钟店，还有一家以存有澳大利亚种类最多的优质散装茶叶而闻名的茶叶店。坦伯林山萤火虫洞（G l o w W o r m Caves）是能令孩子们痴迷不已的地下奇观。萤火虫洞之旅开始时，游客们会先简要了解一下萤火虫洞的概况，然后再进入藏有成千上万只萤火虫的黑暗洞窟。最后，您不妨带着块毯子、拿点吃的，到坦伯林山众多观景点之一，欣赏令人沉醉的日落景象，为您的黄金海岸腹地之旅画上完美的句号。在大多数观景点，您都能饱览腹地一望无际的森林，还能远远地看到黄金海岸的城市天际线和白色的沙滩。黄金海岸的精髓— —沙滩、都市生活、森林，在这里显得相得益彰、无比和谐，它成为澳大利亚最受人欢迎的度假胜地也就不足为奇了。

PLACES TO STAY... QT GOLD COAST From $209 per night qthotelsandresorts.com/ gold-coast

SURFERS PARADISE MARRIOTT RESORT & SPA From $332 per night marriott.com.au/hotels/ travel/oolsp-surfersparadise-marriott-resortand-spa/

SHERATON GRAND MIRAGE RESORT From $375 per night

sheratonmiragegoldcoast. com

SOFITEL GOLD COAST BROADBEACH From $230 per night sofitelgoldcoast.com.au

PALAZZO VERSACE From $359 per night palazzoversace.com.au

You can see a different side of the Gold Coast at Tamborine Mountain