CONTENTS Executive Summary Introduction
The Fur Industry Advantages and disadvantages of real fur The ethical issues and commercialization of fur industry
Power of Fur Suppliers Regulated fur farms
Brands' Shift in Fashion Climate Brands joining anti-fur movement
Methology Discussions Conclusion
Executive Summary Mainstream fashion is an ever-changing industry with a rapid shift in trends. Animal fur, nevertheless, remains a historic fabric that has been used for centuries. Changes in consumer sentiments towards fur and animal welfare invites people to review the fur debate in all aspects. This paper is an exploration of the fur industry, analyzing the factors that contribute the shift in the changing market and aims to investigate the consumer behavior and ethical consciousness to evaluate public opinion on real fur and faux fur. This research will be conducted through both primary and secondary research, with a survey, consumer interview and case study to examine the correlation between. There are currently two sides of the debate on fur: with pro-fur supporters and brands believing that natural fur is the most sustainable and environmentally friendly option for fur products that supports enterprises and over a million workers in the industry worldwide and anti-fur activists arguing the unethical treatment to the 50 million animals slaughtered when acquiring their fur. While one side believes that this debate doesn’t have to be black and white with no middle ground, the other side remains adamant that there is no kind way to obtain fur and such practice and fur sale should be banned forever. This research paper examines the social controversy and ethical concern from both sides, explaining stances from world renowned designers such as Karl Lagerfeld who supports fur to brands like Prada who recently just joined the anti-fur movement. Are brands acting from public pressure? Are consumers actually ethically aware of their purchases? Do people really understand the differences and the pros and cons of both real fur and faux fur? How is fashion’s plastic issues affecting the industry and the public? This paper serves to be an informant and examiner to explore the multi-aspect of the fur debate.
Over the past decade, the fashion industry has struggled to find consensus on the use of fur. The merchandising of fur has always been strongly criticized by animal rights and anti-fur activists as a “cruel and unethical practice” that slaughters around “50 million animals a year” (Business of Fashion). As fur being a strong economic force, with a total sales of more than $13 billion in 2009 as stated by the Business of Fashion, many brands began to look into the use of fur alternatives. Advances in material technology stimulated the development of realistic-looking faux fur made from synthetic materials, resulting in a fundamental shift in the industry. Prominent designer brands such as Prada, Burberry, Versace, Michael Kors, Armani, and Stella McCartney have all joined the fur-free movement, and publicly spoken out to promise the concerned consumers and environmental groups that they are switching to fur alternatives. In a public statement, Prada quoted that the brand from a value of “innovation and social responsibility” is looking to “explore new boundaries of creative design while meeting the demand for ethical products” (Prisco). While market retailers and luxury brands delete real fur out of mainstream fashion and turn to faux fur, experts and activists weigh in on the environmental harm they could bring. According to twenty-five-year-old sustainable fashion activist Marina Testino, “it is currently impossible for something to be fully sustainable or for the fashion industry to become plastic-free overnight.” But this should not stop people from discovering and revolutionizing new methods to manufacture sustainable fashion products that integrate all
Introduction “environmental, economic, and social practice” (Pitcher). In order to explore this topic, we must first understand in full extent the advantages and disadvantages of both real fur and faux fur, and the impacts they have brought to the industry and the environment. We need to hear in every aspect of pro and anti-fur, especially from the legendary houses and manufacturers influencing the entire global fashion industry. What are their stance on the issue and their attempt to break this hostile cycle? While we comprehend the reasoning behind pro-fur brands such as the prestigious House of Fendi and Louis Vuitton who explicitly explained their pro-fur attitude, it is also important to examine brands that have announced to be “ethical” and fur free while continuing to produce leather goods. Every action impacts the environment. How has the real fur market changed in the past decade? And while brands are phasing out fur, could leather be next? In the past few years, the transformation of real fur products to faux fur products have been seen on the runways and in the stores as a response from designer brands to the pressure from animal-right activists and concerned consumers on unethical practice of acquiring animal fur. The switch from real fur to these synthetically made products, however, opened up a new debate on the sustainability of faux fur, and whether or not it is worse for the environment.If we continue to wish to see and purchase fur-look alike products in fashion, it is crucial that we look for a balanced and ethical solution between obtaining real fur and producing faux fur until a more advanced and replaceable material has been made to address fashion’s plastic issue. Likewise, the concept applies to examining the industry of use of leather and vegan leather and their similarly problematic impact to the environment.
The Fur Industry
Fur is no doubt one of the most ancient fabrics in human history. This traditional industry, striving as a powerful economic force and supported by millions of members of the fur trade, has provided around 117,000 enterprises with one million people working in the industry worldwide (BoF). Although the market hits backlashes and slowing demands from consumers and activist groups, the industry value was estimated at a $22 billion market in 2019. Compared to its value of $40 billion in 2015, the market had a whopping 45% dropdown, but it still shows a certain amount of demand for fur products in fashion (O’Connor). While anti-fur groups like People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) claim that the process of acquiring animal fur is inhumane and causes animal suffering, the International Fur Trade Federation (IFTF) argued otherwise. IFTF explains that animal fur is a sustainable resource that is “more environmentally friendly than petroleum based products such as fake fur.” As the fashion industry lists as the second most polluting industry next to the oil industry, real fur products are among the few green products that are reusable and can be passed on and worn for decades. Moreover, fur trade argue that conditions have changed with the “implementation of more industry regulation concerned with the humane treatment of animals”
(Abnett). Michael Whelan, the executive director of the Fur Commission USA, explains that farmers that produce animal fur in the United States adhere to the highest standards of animal welfare, and the organization has spent over half of their budget into animal research. Fur auction house Saga Furs exemplifies organizations that put in effort to ensure animal welfare by establishing a farm certification programme that traces and tracks farm activities for upholding regulations that protect animals. These certified farms are regularly inspected by independent outside auditors, just l i k e g r a s s - f e d f a r m s a n d p a s t u re d livestocks (Abnett). World renowned fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld made an influential statement when interviewed for the fur debate as he stated that “In a meat-eating world, wearing leather for shoes and even clothes, the discussion of fur is childish” (Barnett).
Understanding Fur For centuries, fur pelts from animals like rabbit, beaver, mink, fox, bears, racoon, etc., are sold largely at auctions by auction houses with a wide range of prices. These fur are seamed into clothing and accessories, with a main function to keep warmth. An average price of a fur product in a luxury brand can range from a few hundred dollars to hundred thousands dollars. The family-owned luxury brand Yves Salomon was founded as a furrier in 1920. As a brand that carries trendy fox-trimmed parka jackets and mink-lined coats, Yves Salomon had a $60 million revenue in 2019 with a high demand from cold weathered countries (O’Connor). To profur brands and fur federations, fur like mink fur is less toxic than faux fur and more sustainable as it can be stored and used for decades. The industry is also looking into “ethical fur” where fur is acquired from an invasive or overpopulated species such as coyotes. The coyote fur on Canada Goose jackets, for instance, is sourced from coyotes that have “spread beyond their traditional habitats in Canada and have been trapped in the wild” (Pitcher). To most pro-fur supporters, real fur is an eco-friendly option as fur products can be preserved for a really long time under good care. In fact, many people are able to pass down fur products such as fur coats for generations. It is an investment that is timeless
and durable while it serves to provide incredible warmth as the main purpose. These fur coats can be “recycled,” sold second handedly as a sustainable option to fashion. Unlike artificial fur products made synthetically from polyester, natural fur is biodegradable. To most environmentalists, wearing fur products that come from regulated farms or a fairly paid indigenous artisan that performs ethical practice is the most eco-friendly and sustainable method at the moment. This industry, like all other fabric industries, offers “multiple benefits in terms of employment and production;” Therefore the need to act for its enhancement would be the best way to navigate the issue (IFTF). However, if you ask for the methods behind acquiring these fur pelts, you can receive all sorts of different answers with no proof of what the truth is. Mimi Bekhechi, director of the PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) Foundation, asserts that “The fur industry is an unregulated, unaccountable, ethics-free business” (Abnett). These animal welfare groups believe that animals are mostly killed in the “most horrifying ways — often through anal or vaginal electrocution, gassing or poisoning. In the wild, animals are caught in bonecrushing leg-hold traps. They may suffer for days, slowly dying from hunger, thirst, disease, blood loss and predation” (Abnett).
“Exposé after exposé by PETA and our international affiliates have revealed that animals on fur factory farms spend their lives in tiny wire cages, often with scant to no protection from the snow and sleet in wintertime or the scorching summer sun.”
“Fur farming is actually the most regulated animal use industry in Europe — but our farm certification programme requires fur farms to go beyond national animal welfare standards, with advanced animal health and welfare, breeding conditions, food maintenance, farm hygiene, record keeping and environmental management. We use a traceability system that tracks the skins throughout the supply chain, making it possible to know which farms produced the skins in which products. Because the production chain is transparent, fashion retailers can cross-check their fur suppliers and identify the farms that are supplying them. Some leading luxury fashion brands even conduct spot checks on the farms themselves. We also have a very strong sustainability profile. The animal feed is made of fish not fit for human consumption, fish by-products and waste from the food industry. We are working towards an organic way of processing the raw pelts, by developing new chemical-free processes.”
Power of Fur Supplier The majority of fur, which is about 85%, comes directly from fur farms, which is then commercially graded and sold through auction houses (IFTF). The auction process, however, is a way of “unfair competition and collusion” as many believe auction uncertainties in price and allocation of goods are all regulated by the ranchers’ community. Similar skins will be sold at the same price to large dealers, providing farms and auction houses to reach a concentrated power to control the market (Skov). Another significant supplier behavior that is major fur suppliers promote fur fashion through a variety of unconventional methods. Cold winter in China and South Korea made the two countries the key markets for fur consumption. Survivors in the current industry and luxury players “see an opportunity” for “market squeeze.” One of the world’s biggest fur houses, Saga Fur, increased the price of fur around 40% last year (O’Connor). In addition, the global fur trade is also teetering from Denmark’s decision to kill 17 million farmed mink after Covid-19 hits. According to the International Fur Federation, worries of sudden shortage of mink pelts boosted the price to about an 30% lift in Asia. To many, the drastic change in price isn’t a bad notion. Designer Yves Salomon comments that “Fur has to be a luxury product and not a mass-production product,” condemning the rise of cheap and low-quality fur from the Chinese markets. Regulated Fur Farms Jan Erik Carlson of Saga Fur argues that the fur debate shouldn’t have to be “black and white with no middle ground,” as he believes “designers and consumers have every right to use and buy fur” (Carlson). To Carlson, who has worked in the fur industry for more than two decades, fur farming is a tradition that goes back more than 100 years in the Nordic countries, “built on tremendous passion and know-how.” All the mink, fox, and Finn Raccoon pelts come from European farms regulated by the EU and national legislation.
Brands' shift in fashion climate Fur coats are among the many artfully crafted products produced by Fendi ateliers and presented to the public’s eyes in every new seasonal collection. There is, however, an “underlying sense of the brand adjusting to a shift in the fashion climate, especially with all the attention lavished on leather and fur” (Blanks). In Fendi’s SS18 collection, there is an evident transition of clothing where functionality ruled. Author Tim Blanks, in his article for Business of Fashion on Fendi’s Transition, comments that “Did you ever imagine the day would come when PVC made more of a statement in a Fendi collection than fur?” Karl Lagerfeld once mentioned that “Fake fur pollutes the world more than anything else. Fur is an industry. It’s legal.” To him, everyone who consumes meat and uses leather products should not opinionated on fur. “People who want to suppress the fur industry — if they have enough money to make an income for all the people who work in that industry, OK. I see it going nowhere” said Karl (Foley). This open statement from Karl speaking for the House of Fendi and Chanel represents almost all positions of luxury brands that continue the use of fur. Famous designer Gilles Mendel also adds to the idea, explaining “As someone who literally grew up in the luxury fur industry, at the creative helm of a brand that was started by my great-great-great-grandfather, I
feel fairly assured that there will always be customers who are passionate about fur — just as there have always been detractors. Fur is a luxury product, and should be regarded as such. It isn’t for everyone.” To pro-fur activists, fur is a question choice, and people now live in a time where inclusiveness is everything. Brands Joining Anti-Fur Movement: From Heart or From Pressure? In 2019, Prada faced a targeted public protest and months of pressure from animal-rights activists such as the Fur Free Alliance, an activist coalition made up of over “40 animal protection organizations including LAV and The Humane Society” (O’Connor). Following ranks of labels such as Burberry, Versace, and Gucci, Prada publicly announced to stop featuring animal fur products from Spring/Summer 2020 onward. Once using fur for her most notable collection such as the “banana” show back in Spring 2011, Prada’s most iconic designer and creative director Miuccia Prada said that the brand will now be “Focusing on innovative materials will allow the company to explore new boundaries of creative design while meeting the demand for ethical products” (Williams). Joining the movement are cities to countries banning the sale of fur. In 2019, city council of one of the largest fur markets in the U.S. — New York announces that the city will consider a ban on the sales of fur apparel. Respectively, San Francisco and Los Angeles already passed similar bans (O’Connor). Are brands following consumers’ command and submitting to the pressure given by animal welfare groups?
Prada Group’s head of marketing and communications Lorenzo Betelli comments that “the ban is a response to shifting consumer attitudes and low demands.” He adds that “Fur has never been part of the main pieces for Prada. People are always asking for a more sustainable approach from the company.” Back in Fall 2019 when Prada faced the condemnation from animal protection groups, the brand had received thousands of emails from activists. Its decision to move from natural fur to fake and plastic alternatives have upset pro-fur activists. Mark Oaten, chief executive of the International Fur Federation, said he was “extremely disappointed” at Prada’s decision. In fact, turning away from fur won’t make much of an impact on Prada, as fur accounts for less than 0.1% of the materials in their production mentioned by Betelli. It is, however, a major boost to other smaller brands that are likely to follow Prada’s steps and join the movement. “I would have hoped a brand Renowned designer Stella McCartney that cares about sustainaonce mentioned in an interview that “It’s about time that the bility would have given its fashion industry woke up to the fact that consumers the choice to buy fur is cruel, barbaric and simply incredibly old-fashioned and natural fur rather than movunfashionable. The use of new materials and new technology ing forwarfs fake and plastic is really what’s exciting in the future of this alternatives.” - Mark Oaten industry. To kill animals in the name of fashion and to use their skins when you can’t tell the difference any longer just seems ridiculous.” McCartney urges the public to work “collectively” together for the better of the planet and better of animal welfare. She also acknowledges the changes of people being more conscious in the food they take and what they bring back into their homes, how they live their lives...etc. Following the statement is Gucci’s head designer Alessandro Michele, who also second McCartney’s statement. Nonetheless, unlike Stella McCartney that has never used leather, feathers, fur or skin since day one of their branding but instead vegan leather and recycled cashmere, Gucci has 55% of leather goods produced worldwide in just last year. Like what Karl Lagerfeld commented, while people continue to eat meat and buy leather products, what difference is there in the fur industry? With demands, there is supply. Conforming to public pressure for one item but neglecting the other problematic issue seems to be happening in many global brands. The key is to also understand if consumers care about ethical-luxury. Are the public focusing on animal fur because it is a hot-debated topic, or is it against their values?
Methodology A survey with a total of 13 questions was passed out to 61 people for an overall research objective to understand general purchasing habit and ability by the respondents, then to evaluate them on fur ownership, fur consumption and lastly their opinion on ethicalluxury concepts. This survey is conducted in the United States, with an average of 1.5 min of survey completion time.
Interview Questions and Responses Question 1: What does a fur product/coat mean to you? Why did you buy a fur product? Question 2: What do you like about fur products and what do you dislike about it? Question 3: As someone who works closely with/in the fashion industry, do you see a shift of change in consumer demand and brand positioning? Question 4: After hearing about the disadvantages of faux fur and its effect on the environment, what do you think the most sustainable method is regarding this topic?
Case Study: “Social Attitudes and Animals” by Herzog, Rowan, and Kossow, 2001 A number of polls have been conducted in the U.S. on collective public opinion toward wearing fur in a case study by Herzon, Rowan and Kossow in 2001 to exemplify the confrontation between accepting and opposing fur. With the shift in the industry and awareness on animal welfare, many fur consumers have changed their opinions on the topic after learning from anti-fur activist groups such as PETA and Lynx. Many also believe that it is time to eliminate fur from a wealthy identity, and followed influential anti-fur advocator like Naomi Campbell who ran a campaign and wore a shirt that says “rather go naked than wear fur” (Foley). This shift in public attitude is reflecting the different level of fur fashion involvement. Herzon, Rowan and Kossow defined involvement as “a person’s perceived relevance of an object based on their inherent needs, values, and interests.” In the following charts, we can see public opinion on using nonhuman animals in different types of research and on wearing fur in the 1980s.
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ssion
Conclusion This paper first introduces the on-going debate of real fur versus faux fur, and the different stances from both sides with arguments to support themselves of. The paper analyzed the fur industry in respect of the powers of buyers and suppliers, the driver for fur demand and the public opinion on fur from history to current times. An online survey was conducted with 61 respondents aged an average of 25 years old, who revealed a universal attitude towards fur. The interview of fur consumers exposes the acknowledgement of sustainability in the fur and fashion industry, whereas the case study exemplified how people can be influenced by communication strategies and will respond accordingly but also remained universal in the topic of fur. The time for mainstream fur has come and gone, and the debate will continue as long as there is a certain demand and supply for fur. Natural is not a synonym to sustainable either. When looking at real fur versus faux fur, they will always have their markets, but it is really up to the consumer with a sustainable clothing purchase in mind. People should buy less and think of the product’s life cycle and how to extend the life of a fashion product. This does not only apply to fur but also other materials as we live in a world with limited resources. To many people, boycotting real fur products and skipping out on faux fur until significant material advances become available to resolve fashion’s plastic issue is the most ecofriendly and sustainable option. This paper encourages the public to look for organic and natural materials wherever possible when purchasing fashion products, and understand the importance of manufacturers following a production practice that adheres to our personal values, because not only fur industry has unethical practices, but the same applies to all other material industries. This report has practical implications that can be adopted by the fur marketing communications, understanding the importance of appropriate management of brand products and enhancing regulations to increase confidence of consumers in buying fur products and foster the positive perception of fur. The paper only has one case study. Therefore, further research involving other fur brands will be useful to investigate the market on another level. In addition, the paper focuses on the U.S. consumers and has an extremely small sample size of general consumer survey that is too weak to verify the public attitude towards fur industry so further testing is necessary. In conclusion, secondhand, recycled, rented or refrain from buying is something small that a consumer can do but collectively can change the entire fashion market. Animals need attention for care but so does our planet. The fur industry is just one of the many problems that humans need to work to protect.
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