Ozark
AUGUST • SEPTEMBER 2017
Hills Hollows C E L E B R AT I N G O U R H E R I TA G E , N E I G H B O R S A N D R U R A L L I V I N G I N T H E H E A R T O F A M E R I C A
AUGUST • SEPTEMBER 2017
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Pemmican Native American Survival Food
45
Weed Free Gardening The Secret of Going Soil-less
54
Capturing Rural History One Barn at a Time
August • September 2017 | 1
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C. William Hof, MD
Randall Cole, MD
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August • September 2017 | 3
Ozark
Hills Hollows CELEBRATING OUR HERITAGE, NEIGHBORS AND RURAL LIVING IN THE HEART OF AMERICA
Our hope is to provide a window into the lifestyle, passions and beauty of the people and activities that are going on all around the Ozark communities we live in. Our publication is widely available throughout southwest Missouri and northwest Arkansas. Please enjoy this issue -- and if you want to support us, please do so by advertising! Sherry Leverich ozarkhheditor@gmail.com 417-846-6171
Our readers are your customers! Ozark
Hills Hollows Celebrating Heritage, Farm and Healthy Living in the Heart of America PUBLISHER Rob Lotufo ozarkhillsandhollows@gmail.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Sherry Leverich ozarkhheditor@gmail.com DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Veronica Zucca ozarkhhart@gmail.com
WRITERS AND PHOTOGRAPHIC CONTRIBUTORS Katrina Hine Jerry Dean Kim Mobley Nahshon Bishop Amanda Reese Stan Fine Kayla Branstetter Beckie Block Layne Sleeth Steve Parker Lisa Florey Savanna Kaiser PROOF EDITOR Barbara Warren
FACEBOOK Ozark Hills and Hollows Magazine TWITTER @ozarkhillhollow INSTAGRAM ozarkhillsandhollowsmagazine ONLINE www.issuu.com/ozarkhillsandhollows
www.ozarkhillsandhollows.com
Ozark Hills and Hollows is published bi-monthly by Exeter Press. In the pages of Ozark Hills and Hollows magazine, we hope to capture the spirit of country living in our beautiful region. Please feel free to contact any of our staff with comments and questions, and pass along any story subjects or ideas to our editor at ozarkhheditor@gmail.com. 417-652-3083 Exeter Press, P.O. Box 214, Exeter, MO 65647 4 |
OZARK
Hills&Hollows
Inside:
AUGUST • SEPTEMBER 2017 FEATURES: 10
Great Snacks For Appetite Attacks
22
Ranchin' Ridin' and Ropin' Rural Rodeos
42
A Hidden Treasure Birds at Lake Fayetteville
45
Weed Free Gardening The Secret of Going Soil-less
54
Capturing Rural History One Barn at a Time
58
Learning From the Master Passing Down the Trade
PLUS: 21
Gear & Gadgets Just Chillin'
32
Pemmican Native American Survival Food
36
Peach Perfect Dripping With Essence
38
Repurposing Revolution Put To Good Use
50
Destination Ozarks Ozarks' Grand Canyon
62
Baseball in the Shadow Of the Kihlberg Hotel
IN EVERY ISSUE: 16
A Horsewoman's Journey He Transforms Us
18
COVER: Our country covergirl is Cara, daughter of Brian and Christina Leach of Cassville, Missouri. Cara is holding her Cochin Bantam named Blondie. We wish Cara (who is a kindergartner this year) and all of our Ozark kids the best as they start back to school! Thanks to Christina Leach photography for this great photo.
Backroads and Byways Our Stories and Struggles
28
4 Flies For Trout Parks
30
Back Home in the Hills Joe's Visitor
34
Good For You Buffalo Beef
64
From the Hollow Snake Superstitions
August • September 2017 | 5
y
ABOUT OUR CONTRIBUTORS: Layne Sleeth is a born and raised Ozarks dweller with a penchant for the natural world. Layne currently abides on a Southwest Missouri hilltop with her dearest dogs, cats, and creative husband, Brian. When not reading or jotting down words and thoughts, you can find Layne tending and admiring plants, cooking good food, playing games with family, or learning something new.
Kayla Branstetter is a born and raised Ozarkian is an avid traveler and local educator who loves spending time with her family, reading literature, and running trails. She lives on a beef and chicken farm with her husband Chris and daughter, Berlin. Many reasons she enjoys living in the Ozarks centers on the culture, the friendly people and the beauty of each season.
Wes Franklin is a born native of the Missouri Ozarks, where he has lived all of his life. He enjoys reading and writing about local history, especially Ozark folklore and culture, as well as classic literature. He also enjoys shooting blackpowder weapons. He is closest to heaven when roaming the hills and hollows of his beloved Ozarks.
Steve Parker is a relatively new transplant to NWA. Growing up in the farming country, he received his teaching degree in Nebraska before venturing to Arizona where he continued his education and teaching career. He and his wife Angie love to travel and have been to many countries around the world – but always look forward to coming back to the Ozarks Living in Fayetteville, he has become a rabid Razorback fan, a blues fan and enjoys the great food in the area. He loves to cook, ride his bike on the beautiful trails and... just enjoy life.
Savanna Kaiser is an author, freelance writer and gardener from the Missouri Ozarks. A homeschool graduate, she's always enjoyed living in the country and working with her family. When she's not writing, she's working at her family's heirloom seed company – White Harvest Seed – in Hartville. She and her husband, Andrew, enjoy taking road trips, growing their garden, and kayaking down the river by their home. They're also proud new parents of a baby girl, Allison Rose.
Sherry Leverich is a native Ozarkian. Born in northwest Arkansas and raised in southwest Missouri, Sherry grew up on a dairy farm where she developed a love for agriculture and all things outdoors. She writes, farms and gardens on a small homestead with her husband and three sons, and raises produce for a local farmers market with her mom.
Larry Dablemont has a degree in wildlife management from the University of Missouri, and writes about all aspects of the outdoors. Owner of Lightnin’ Ridge Publishing, he puts out an outdoor magazine, has written ten books and writes a weekly columns for 40 newspapers in three states. Does public speaking and publishes books for other writers. Born and raised on the Big Piney River, he worked many years as a naturalist for the Arkansas State Parks and as a naturalist for the National Park Service on the Buffalo River.
Christina Leach is originally from North Carolina, but has lived all over the country. She is a 2001 graduate of the University of Arkansas. Christina and her family moved to Cassville, Missouri, seven years ago from Montana where her husband worked on the Northern Cheyenne Indian Reservation. She is a stay-athome mom to her three children and an aspiring photographer. She also enjoys barrel racing.
Kim McCully-Mobley is a local educator, writer, self-described gypsy and storyteller with a homebased project dubbed The Ozarkian Spirit. The essence of this project is anchored in keeping the stories, legends, lore and history of the Ozarks region alive for the generations to come. She makes her home in Barry County on the Mobley Chicken Ranch with her husband, Al. She is always looking for that next adventure on the backroads and byways.
Katrina Hine is a relocated flatlander from Kansas, landing in the unique McDonald County region of Southwest Missouri. Her writing career began as a reporter for the local newspaper while pursing her Master's degree. Her continued passion to tell the stories of people, places and their history keeps life interesting. Katrina loves the endearing "realness" of the Ozark's and its people. She is a regular columnist in the McDonald County Historical Society newsletter, and also writes for Ozark Farm & Neighbor Ag newspaper and the Oklahoma Department of Tourism's magazine, Oklahoma Today. Her and her husband, Randall, have three grown children and eight grandchildren.
Beckie Block was born and raised in the Wheaton area, and is admittedly a small town girl. She enjoys her job in customer service, along with writing freelance and blogging. She admits to always carrying a pen and paper in case she needs to jot down thoughts and ideas to write later. She has three children, two at home and one in Nebraska, where she enjoys going to visit her two grand-daughters. Beckie spends her free time in church activities, gardening and baking.
Barbara Warren is a freelance editor with several years experience. She is currently working on her fifth book to be published this winter. She has had short stories and articles published in magazines such as Mature Living and Home Life, as well as being a devotional writer for Open Windows. Barbara is one of the founders of the Mid-South Writers Group, and has been speaker at writers conferences and other area writers groups. She lives on a farm in the beautiful Ozarks, where they raise beef cattle.
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Lisa Florey recently moved back to the Ozarks after spending five years in the Chicago area. A freelance writer and editor, she spends her spare time horseback riding, polishing her photography skills and learning leatherwork. She's an avid traveler who's explored Iceland solo, ridden a mule into the Grand Canyon and is planning a pack trip in Yellowstone's backcountry.
Amanda Reese has spent most of her life training and teaching with horses. She has also studied journalism and is currently working on two books centered around her love of horses and God. When she is not riding or writing, Amanda enjoys spending time with her husband and two daughters on their farm.
Stan Fine is a resident of McDonald County in Missouri. Born in Long Beach California, he spent his childhood in the west, but went to high school in St. Louis. He then married his high school sweetheart, Robin. There they raised their two sons, David (who passed away with cancer in 2006) and Rob. Stan was a Detective Lieutenant in a St. Louis suburb and attained a Bachelor of Science in Criminal Justice Management, and a Master of Science in Administration. He retired in 2006 and he and Robin moved to Noel. Robin passed away, due to cancer, in 2013 after 46 years of marriage. Stan now plays golf, substitute teaches, and writes, especially in the wee morning hours.
A NOTE FROM THE PUBLISHER
Summer Send Off Summer Sun by Robert Louis Stevenson Great is the sun, and wide he goes Through empty heaven with repose; And in the blue and glowing days More thick than rain he showers his rays. Though closer still the blinds we pull To keep the shady parlour cool, Yet he will find a chink or two To slip his golden fingers through. The dusty attic spider-clad He, through the keyhole, maketh glad; And through the broken edge of tiles Into the laddered hay-loft smiles. Meantime his golden face around He bares to all the garden ground, And sheds a warm and glittering look Among the ivy's inmost nook. Above the hills, along the blue, Round the bright air with footing true, To please the child, to paint the rose, The gardener of the World, he goes
&
WHITE FUNERAL HOME
T
he dog days of summer are here in the Ozarks. I can tell because all three of my lazy mutts are just snoozing on the porch all day, waiting for the sun to get a little lower in the sky. Even my beagle, Keebler, is thinking twice these days about chasing me on the fourwheeler, as I scout the fields. We've been blessed with an abundance of rain, and a mild winter this year. Hay is growing like wildfire, the soybeans and corn are thriving, and we are having a bumper crop of big, sweet tomatoes, crisp, fresh cucumbers and tender mild zucchini. Like a visit with an old friend, we have musings by Larry Dablemont, Kim Mobley, Amanda Reese and Wes Franklin on life, lore and people of the Ozarks. Lisa Florey takes us on a tour of Ranch Rodeos in our area, where real life cowboys test their mettle against each other, collect bruises and scars, and keep alive a classic American tradition. Steve Parker looks into bird watching, while Kayla whisks us off to another Ozark getaway. For our burgeoning flock of food-loving fans, we'll explore fun snacks and peaches. We have a feature in this issue about buffalo meat and how to get some that is locally produced. As an accompaniment, Layne Sleeth gives us a taste of Pemmican, and explores this old stand-by food of trappers and adventurers. Just around the corner is dove and squirrel season, and I'm getting pretty excited about that. Our cows are still fat and happy, and our chickens are keeping us well stocked in fresh eggs. We've got chicks in the coop, baby guineas on the porch, and lots of little white wabbits. much to my chagrin, the ticks, skeeters and chiggers seem to be faring well this year as well. We've got a jam-packed harvest of interesting Ozarkian stories this month, I hope you find a few that strike your fancy. Take time to get yourself a tall, cold glass of iced tea or lemonade, and sit down for a moment to peruse this season's offerings. Me, I'm already looking forward to the cool breezes of fall, see you then! Robert Lotufo Publisher, Exeter Press
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ON SITE CREMATORY
August • September 2017 | 7
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Magazine
Please fill out this portion and send to:
Exeter Press P.O. Box 214, Exeter, MO 65647
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www.ozarkhillsandhollows.com
Sambal Chicken Skewers Forester Farmer’s Market® is butcher-shop quality chicken – a healthy, wholesome chicken that is rare in today’s marketplace. Our nutritious, hometown quality will take you back to a time when chicken was chicken.
Why Forester? ALL NATURAL
RAISED WITH NO ANTIBIOTICS – EVER NEVER FED ANIMAL BY-PRODUCTS NO ADDED HORMONES OR STEROIDS
BY FO R EST ER FAR M ER ’S MARKET 1 ½ lbs. Forester Farmer’s Market® Boneless Skinless Breasts, cut into 1 ½ -2” pieces 1/2 cup (packed) light brown sugar 1/2 cup unseasoned rice vinegar 1/3 cup hot chili paste (such as sambal oelek) 1/4 cup fish sauce (such as nam pla or nuoc nam) 1/4 cup Sriracha 2 teaspoon finely grated peeled ginger
CAGE-FREE NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION, PER SERVING: 413 CALORIES 16 G FAT 3 G SATURATED FAT 27 G CARBOHYDRATE 1 G FIBER 12 G SUGARS 38 G PROTEIN
My goal is to provide your family the same quality chic ken that Ma cooked for Dad. Trea t your family to chicken that’s chic ken. Dr. Ed Fryar, Foun der
Prepare grill for medium-high heat. Whisk brown sugar, vinegar, chili paste, fish sauce, Sriracha, and ginger in a large bowl. Add chicken and toss to coat. Remove chicken and thread 4 or 5 pieces onto each skewer. Transfer leftover marinade to a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer until reduced by half (about 1 cup), 7–10 minutes. Grill chicken, turning and basting often with reduced marinade, until cooked through, 8–10 minutes. (until an internal temperature of 170°F is achieved.) Find more great recipes at www.foresterfarmersmarket.com
foresterfarmersmarket.com August • September 2017 | 9
r o f s k c a n S t a e r G A s k c a tt t A Appe ite STORY BY SHERRY LEVERICH PHOTOS BY SHERRY LEVERICH AND ROB LOTUFO
fter school, after work, before heading out, or between meals – when your stomach calls for a snack break, here are some ideas that will satisfy your cravings. We’ve tried to include healthy snacks that won’t spike your blood sugar, savory when you just need something salty, and sweet-tooth ideas for when nothing but something sugary will satisfy.
Bite-sized Mac-n-cheese Feeling the need to the comfort of old-fashioned mac-n-cheese? The bite-sized charmers store well, and even taste good cold!
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Cracker toffee Satisfies when you crave sugar, chocolate, salty and crunchy!
August • September 2017 | 11
Date-licous Energy Bars is just what you need to spike your energy levels before heading out to work or play.
Healthy:
CRUNCHY CHICKPEAS Mix a 15-ounce can drained chickpeas with 2 Tbsp. olive oil and 1 tsp. each cumin and smoked paprika, sprinkle with salt. Bake at 425 degrees, F., for at least 20 minutes, on a cookie sheet mixing every 10 minutes. Before removing from oven, test one by cooling – if it is still chewy in the middle, bake for 10 minutes until crispy all the way through. LOADED OATMEAL COOKIES These can be made ahead and individually frozen. Using your favorite oatmeal cookie recipe, add 1 Tbsp. flax seed, ¼ cup wheat germ, ½ cup each nuts, raisins, or other dried fruits as well. Full of fiber and flavor! HOMEMADE FRUIT LEATHER Easy to make with any fruit puree, and you can control how much sugar is added. Try it first with apple sauce. Spread thin on a silicone baking mat and bake low at 150-200 degrees, F., until dried through, remove and roll in a piece of wax paper, store in airtight container. Works even better in a dehydrator. Try with peach puree – be sure to add lemon juice to help prevent browning. Berries work very well, especially if mixed with apple sauce as a base.
Simple Jello Cups with fruit cocktail is quick and cool for hot afternoons!
FRUIT KABOBS These are delicious and can be made ahead. Use apples, pineapple, grapes, melons and pears. Chunk and pierce onto a wood skewer. Dunk in lemon aid, Sprite, or lemon juice to keep apples and pears from turning brown. Keep in airtight container in the refrigerator for 2-3 days. Also check out our recipe for chilled fruit cups for something a little different. BANANA BREAD OR ZUCCHINI BREAD This is a great way to use those brown bananas and those monster zucchinis. A recipe for a zucchini and banana bread is on the recipe page. APPLE CHIPS Try these out and you’ll be hooked! Make a big batch because you will want to snack on these all the time! Recipe included.
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SEE ALL RECIPES ON PAGES 52 - 53
Savory:
MEATBALLS 3-WAYS Place your choice of already made frozen meatballs in the slowcooker with sauce. Options: ½ cup bbq sauce and ½ cup apricot or grape jelly, or, one can of tomato soup, or, make it buffalo with, ½ cup melted butter ½ cup hot sauce 2 Tbsp.s distilled white vinegar 2 tsp.s Worcestershire sauce and pinch granulated garlic (serve with bleu cheese dressing). HAM PINWHEELS. Spread scallion cream cheese on a sun-dried-tomato tortilla and top with thinly sliced ham. Roll up the tortilla and cut into 1/2-inch pieces.
Sweet-tooth:
PEPPERONI PIZZA BREAD Halve a small loaf of Italian bread horizontally and toast under the broiler. Brush with olive oil and garlic powder. Top with pizza sauce, grated mozzarella, Parmesan and sliced pepperoni. Broil until bubbly.
NO-BAKE COOKIES This throw-back is the sure-fire cure for sugar and chocolate cravings. Disclaimer: they are not healthy by any measure. Recipe included.
SWEET TATER CHIPS Something different, but tasty! Try with your favorite dressing, or just sprinkled with salt... or cinnamon sugar. Recipe included.
CRACKER TOFFEE Maybe it’s really a candy, but this easy toffee combines sweet, salty and chocolate for a treat that will give your afternoon some get-up-and-go.
GRILLED CHEESE WITH FRIED EGG Need something with more protein? How about a simple fried egg sandwich? Grill the toast, and top it with Swiss cheese and a lil’ sriracha for something with a little more flavor.
DARK CHOCOLATE AND NUT CLUSTERS Mix together 1 cup unsalted roasted nuts (any variety of nuts will do) and 4 ounces melted dark chocolate (70 to 80 percent cocoa). Drop onto wax paper; refrigerate until set.
Cornpuppies
These delicious lil’ dogs will delight even the pickiest of snackers!
August • September 2017 | 13
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ALL • HAUNTED MAZE • ZOMBIE PAINTB RN BA D TE UN HA SHOOT • BARN SWINGS PUMPKIN PATCH PETTING ZOO • PAINTBALL S • COW TRAIN • HAYRIDE • PHOTO-OPS! NON FUN CAN N AND E COR & CUT OF PKIN S PUM LOT • • ZIP LINE • PUMPKIN JUMP PIT AREAS • CONCESSION FIRE AND IC PICN • ES ABL FACE PAINTING • INFLAT AND SO MUCH MORE! •
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Visit us online for other events and hours facebook posts and giveaways!
State Hwy MM • Exeter, Missouri • 417-846-3959 14 |
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Let me show you the Ozarks
HOME • FARM • LAND 417-319-4367 rob@alistpp.com Rob Lotufo, REALTOR
Experience the Freedom.
Stop by any of our five locations and see how our friendly staff can help you with all your banking needs. GOLDEN WILLARD CASSVILLE SHELL KNOB SELIGMAN 36042 Hwy 86 417-271-3814
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Hwy 37 & Doc Meyer Rd. 417-662-7000
www.freedombk.com August • September 2017 | 15
A Horsewoman’s Journey BY AMANDA REESE
He Transforms Us Photo by Chuck Nickle
R
ecently, we purchased a gelding with plans to use him as a lesson horse. However, before he becomes a lesson horse, he must prove he is ready to take care of green riders. Prince is now in training. Yes, the new horse’s name is Prince. I have girls. When girls are involved in naming animals, horses get names like Prince and Princess. A couple days ago, I was riding Prince in the pasture. I warmed him up and then began some simple riding exercises. After some softening and body control, I decided to work on traveling in a straight line. I pointed Prince at my first marker and squeezed him into a trot. Instead of going straight, Prince veered toward the barn. I guided him back onto the straight path leading to the marker. Again, Prince swerved off the straight path, and moved closer to the barn. For a while, I used my hand and leg aids to keep Prince on a straight path between the markers. But it was obvious, he couldn’t get the barn and the other horses out of his mind. So, I took a different approach. Instead of making him stay on the path, I let him go to the barn. When I quit guiding Prince, he headed straight for his buddies. He wanted to be where they were. At the barn, I worked him by trotting and loping circles. He tried to stop next to the horses, but I kept his feet moving. Then when I felt I had made an impression, I steered him back out into the pasture toward the original marker. At the marker, I let Prince rest. I reined Prince toward another marker and, again, he veered toward the barn. I let him return to the barn and worked him more. After several rounds of this, Prince lost his desire to go to the barn and became much more interested in listening to my directions. Horse training isn’t about forcing a horse’s body to do what we ask, it is about getting a horse’s mind. When a horse willingly gives his mind to the rider, the body follows and a horse is transformed. 16 |
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“And be not conformed to this world: but be ye transformed by the renewing of your mind.” Romans 12:2a
PERSONAL APPLICATION Romans 12:2 says, “And be not conformed to this world: but be ye transformed by the renewing of your mind, that ye may prove what is that good, and acceptable, and perfect will of God.” The word “conform” refers to outward conformity. The Greek meaning of this word is defined as, “fashioning oneself according to.” This word is not used to describe inward change, only outward.
As“To weeverything watch the nature thereofis a humans, it is easy for us season, and a timetotooutwardly every conform to what is around both purpose under heaven:usa–time good and bad. Some influences are to be born, and a time to die; good, others can lead us astray and a time tothe plant, andpath a time pull us from straight Godto pluck up that has set before us.which is planted; a Godtoask to be transformed time killusand a time to heal;bya renewing of our minds. The time to break down, andGreek a time meaning for the “transform” to build up;word a time to weep, describes, “changing into another and a time to laugh; a time to form,” focusing on both our character mourn, and a time to dance; and conduct. It emphasizes inwarda time to cast away stones, and a change. I didn’t want my horsetogether; to only time to gather stones outwardly do what I asked, I a time to embrace, andbut a time wanted him to experience a change to refrain from embracing; a of mind, a true desire to listen to time to get, and a time to lose; me and my will over his own will, or time to he keep, and athe time to the ainfl uence felt from other cast In away; a time towants rend,more and horses. humans, God than change, He wants us a outward time to sew; a time to keep transformed. silence, and a time to speak; a How weand transformed? time to are love, a time to By hate; the renewing of our mind. By His a time of war, and a time of Word, by His Spirit and because peace.” of what Jesus has done, we can be Ecclesiastes 3:1-8but transformed. It is a process, daily we can grow to think and see things more and more from God’s perspective. The Apostle Paul wrote, “… we have the mind of Christ.” 1 Corinthians 2:16b Jesus has given us the victory. We can take every thought captive to Him and filter what we choose to think on. Many battles are won in our minds. How and what we think matters. In Joshua 1:8, the Lord told Joshua to meditate on His Word, day and night, so he would understand and obey all God had instructed. The Lord promised Joshua a prosperous path and success if he would do this. we realize God loves I encourage you us to and not has our best interest mind. the motions, outwardly gointhrough Don’t your life you might but to trulylive letfearing God transform change; will change. Instead, as you from theitinside out, starting with walk mind. with God, live joyfully, embracing your the season you are in. God has led you “We demolish arguments to it for a reason. Learn the lessons He is teaching you, and trust the work He and every pretense that is doing. sets itself up against the If you are facing hard changes knowledge of God, and we or a difficult season, I am praying for take captive you. I am asking every God tothought comfort to you make it obedient to and remind you, He is yourChrist.” constant Corinthians through each season of10:5 life.
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August • September June • July 2017 2017 || 17 17
Backroads
& Byways
Our Stories and Struggles Can Be Transformational BY KIM MCCULLY-MOBLEY
I have been spending some time at a Civil Rights Educator’s Institute in Little Rock, Arkansas. The drive down had me picnicking in Marshall on a Sunday morning. I marveled at the stark bluffs, the wildflowers in the fields, the farmers’ market in Alpena, the historic district of Leslie and the friendliness of the people with whom I came into contact along the way. The Ozarks is such a vast and colorful landscape of geography, people and stories. There are a few hidden secrets here involving gender, social class, race, and tragedies. Further down in Arkansas, stories still resonate about the Little Rock Nine integration event in 1957 that brought the National Guard to the streets of the state capitol to protect the students walking into Central High School. The media revealed the violence and the danger as it unfolded. We met one of those nine students on Monday, Elizabeth Eckford, who walked into the school day after day amidst jeers, taunts, spit, full body slams and threats. She wanted something different. She believed in making a difference: then and now. Even though we have addressed some content issues regarding race, gender and social class, we have been discussing 18 |
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narrative strategies in communication. This is something that is right up my alley. I am a storyteller. My master’s work was in storytelling some 17 years ago. I believe in the power of the story. Stories connect us. Stories help us ask the important questions. Stories help us discover hidden secrets. Stories transform and empower us. Stories can sometimes divide us. Stories can also unite us. Stories might even haunt us. We discussed the various types of stories we encounter in our lives. We talked about those “stock stories.” These are the ones that are edited and molded throughout time and history to help us feel better about who we are and our collective pasts. These stories usually have an agenda. Sometimes these stock stories explain away painful benchmarks that historians, scholars and even politicians want us to believe. Usually, important details are left out. Sometimes facts are changed. An example of a stock story I encountered before arriving was with a lady who overheard we were going to be visiting the state’s two Japanese internment camp sites in the Mississippi Delta. “Oh, they wanted to go there. They had picnics. The Japanese wanted to prove they were loyal Americans after Pearl Harbor. It did not last long and most were happy to do it.” The facts are, after listening to Richard Yada, a gentleman who was
born at the Rohwer Camp after his family was taken there by train from Stockton, California: the project was called RELOCATION, Arkansas, they were forced to go to the camps by Executive Order, the families were given a number to put on their belongings, they had armed guards, they used a communal bathroom and dining hall, they were kept behind barbed wire in barracks with 16-foot by 20-foot rooms for each family and they slept on cots. At the end of the war, most were given $25 by the government and encouraged to go home. Most no longer had homes or jobs. They had only been given two weeks to liquidate their belongings and the banks had frozen or seized their accounts and assets. The governor of Arkansas had told the federal government they could be housed here, but they would have to leave when the war was over. Other types of stories in our lives can be labeled as: transformational, concealed and resistance. These labels can involve the same stories as they are told through a different lens or filter. Mr. Yada told how his family liked the land in Arkansas, how well the locals treated them and how somehow his family found a way to make an exception and stay in Arkansas after the war because his father felt it was a good place to raise children. A transformational piece of the story might include the loyalty questions they were forced to answer and the ramifications or punishments if they answered them wrong. It might also behoove us to know that a group of boys were strongly encouraged (as part of the loyalty effort) to join the war and became members of the 100th Battalion 442nd Combat Team. This group is now known as the most highly decorated group of military men in any branch of the United States service before or since World War II. I think the loyalty question was answered. A concealed story for those outside of the Arkansas Delta could include the anger and resentment at commemorating the site from some World War II veterans who were still angry against the Japanese.
The transformational piece could also include the fact that a museum finally stands in an old train depot calling attention to the camps and those who lived there. It has only been open a handful of years and has already had over 10,000 visitors. Did they finally realize the Japanese who were imprisoned there fought alongside them as proud Americans? Did they finally realize that in the Delta (and in the Ozarks) we are all one big melting pot of immigrants from other
countries? Unless we are 100 percent Native American, most of our ancestors arrived here from somewhere else. One of the opening educator sessions at the Butler Center in downtown Little Rock included a walking activity. As we moved around the room, found our own pace and made a few sounds and gestures, we were periodically asked to conjure up the gait and gestures of: someone of another gender, someone of another social class and someone of another race.
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I played along. But I am not much of a Simon Says type person. If someone tells me to do something, my first instinct is to do the opposite--until I know why. I was honestly wanting to sit down in a normal chair at a regular table and soak up some new ideas for teaching my students. What was this walking, skipping, roaming around the room going to do for me? Were we mocking others? 20 |
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We were asked to greet others in the persona of our chosen people. We were asked to stop, freeze, jump and think about the specific people we chose. We were asked to walk backwards, sideways, forwards, make sounds, issue greetings, emulate body language and take on airs. I chose three people I am extremely close to and absolutely love beyond measure. One I have known my whole life. One I have known for over 25 years and the final one was a little feisty cartwheelfilled girl from Ethiopia – who graced the household of a dear friend a few years ago.
(I had so much fun being her...minus the cartwheel.) I cannot even begin to explain the goosebumps, emotions and empathy that occurred as I dug deep to think about my three choices and their specific joys, challenges, gestures, successes and lives. I wanted to step outside and call them, check on them, tell them how much their lives have impacted mine. I wanted to see if I got it right. As we circled up later to debrief, I was overcome with such emotion as I talked about how we are all a part of each other. We hold pieces of the people we meet in our hearts. We pay way more attention to each other than we think. My voice cracked. The tears came. Somebody decided I needed a hug. What a powerful activity to start my day. What was I so afraid of just a few minutes prior? I am still sorting it out. I often tell people to put emotions on the back burner when we are doing research projects. “Use emotions as fuel,” I say, wanting students to focus on facts not emotions. Now I am rethinking. Can we truly have facts without the power of these emotions? Emotions help tell the stories that need to be told. Raw, earthy, flaws and all emotions do make a difference. As we truly put ourselves in the shoes of another, we are able to have empathy about the intricacies of life, the universe, fate, destiny or God delivers to our doors. I am reminded about how my mama always told me that, “If you can’t say anything nice, don’t say anything at all.” That might have sent a message to be positive when I was young; but now that I am older and perhaps wiser, I know better. We have to find ways to frame the truths of our lives so the next generation will know better and will hopefully, ultimately do better. We are all accountable. We are all here. We can all make a difference. We are all facing something. We are all worthy. We all have a story. Stories can start the healing process to take place. We must take a deep breath, listen and move forward. If we do not talk about the highs, lows, struggles and victories with total candor, we are not doing justice to the stories we share.
GEAR&GADGETS BY JESSE WOODROW
JUST
I
Chillin'
don't know about y'all, but I couldn't wait for summer to begin. Now it's here, with 90-plus temperatures, and not a cloud, or a breeze in the sky. It can be dangerous when it gets this hot, with dehydration, sunstroke and heat exhaustion all looming out there, especially when you are exerting a lot of energy doing outdoor activities. Here are a few relatively cheap solutions that can knock a few degrees off your body temperature, and make your time outdoors a little more bearable, when the heat is on.
Cool Hack
For under a buck, you can get the low-tech, sweatsoaking, wet-cooling accessory that has been cooling cowboys, bikers and working stiffs for years. I keep one rolled up and tied around my forehead just above the brow most all summer long, with or without a hat. It keeps my head cool, the sweat out of my eyes, and in a pinch I can even use it to clear debris out of my sinus passages. It's an all-purpose item that I never leave home without.
ERGODYNE CHILL It's an Evaporative Cooling Bandanna. A front-runner in the cool bandanna category, this low-tech cooling solution just needs to be doused in cold water for a minute to "recharge". Wear it on your forehead, or around your neck for those sweltering days this summer. At less than 7 bucks a pop, it's a pretty cool solution.
BLACK ICE Are you an over achiever? Or just want to be cooler than the other kids at the climbing wall? This bad boy takes personal cooling technology to the next level. It is even available with a matching cooler to recharge your cold packs. Based on MAT (Molecular Alloy Technology), Black Ice delivers a constant, regulated output of 57degrees, F., for 1.5 hours. A comfortable temperature that's refreshingly cool. Two freezy collars and a cooler will set you back a mere 99 samolians, a small price to pay to be uber chilled.
LOOK BEYOND YOUR CATARACTS You have a life to enjoy… With so much to look forward to, now is the time to ask if laser-assisted cataract surgery could help you focus on all you have yet to see.
FROGG TOGGS CHILLY PAD COOLING TOWELS Evaporative cooling technology at it's simplest. The moisture gets wicked up by these synthetic super towels, and your skin temperature drops like a silver bullet in an ice bucket. Three square feet of chillness for under ten, why not give it a try?
VESTED TECHNOLOGY You've tried the rest, now try the vest. Soak this garment in cold water for a few minutes, and you'll keep cool for up to 4 hours. Simply re-soak to reactivate. Made with a quilted nylon exterior and an interior water repellent liner that can be worn comfortably over your shirt. Mesh side panels provide additional breath-ability and mobility. Thirty-two bucks puts this gizmo at the middle of the pack cost wise, but can you really put a price tag on being cool?
Springfield • Branson • Lebanon Monett • Mountain Grove James B. Mattax, Jr, MD · Leo T. Neu, III, MD Kenneth W. Neu, MD · Thomas G. Prater, MD Jacob K. Thomas, MD · Michael S. Engleman, OD Marla C. Smith, OD · Matt T. Smith, OD
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Have fun out there this summer. Stay out of the sun when you can, keep hydrated, and if you possibly can, chill out whenever you get the chance. August • September 2017 | 21
Cataract B - Ozarks Hills & Hollows Ad MNP 2.31" x 9.75"
, Ranchin , Ridin&
Wheaton , Missouri , ranch rodeo series spotlights working cowboys , skills and community generosity
STORY & PHOTOS BY LISA FLOREY
I
t’s not about the buckle — although that’s a nice bonus. Ranch rodeos showcase the skills cowboys (and cowgirls) use every day on the ranch, along with the bond of the ranching community. Rockin P Ranch in Wheaton, Missouri, hosts a ranch rodeo buckle series throughout the summer that’s a great way for families to spend a summer evening watching local hands demonstrate their skills handling horses and cattle. Located just east of town, Rockin P is owned by Terri and Melvin Priest. Held on select Saturday nights through September, these ranch rodeos are different than regular rodeos. There’s no bull riding or barrel racing — because these aren’t activities you’d see on a ranch. And unlike rodeos, where individuals compete against each other, ranch rodeo teams are made up of working hands who compete as a team for a ranch. Some teams are made up of cowboys from one ranch, while others are a combination of ranches. Ranch rodeos are full of excitement and unpredictability as teams race against the clock to complete tasks. With events like ranch bronc riding, steer branding and wild cow milking, the action is nonstop.
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Ropin'
Each event tests cowboys’ everyday ranching skills. Teams of four cowboys work together to sort, rope, brand, gather strays and load cattle in a trailer, just like they would on a working ranch. Another way ranch rodeos — especially at the Rockin P — are different is they often function as benefits for local ranchers who need a financial boost. “We started hosting ranch rodeos about seven years ago when a very close friend got injured in a farming accident,” Terri said. “We decided that a way we could help would be to host a ranch rodeo and make it a benefit for him and his family.” While she won’t divulge specifics about people who have been helped by events at the ranch, Terri is quick to praise the community for its generosity. “For the first four or five years that we have been hosting the ranch rodeos, we have had at least one of our rodeos advertised as a benefit to help someone in the community,” Terri said. “Whether it’s from an accident or someone with a lifethreatening illness, it’s amazing how our little community comes together to help each other in time of need.”
There are five events at each of the Rockin P ranch rodeos — the schedule varies from one month to the next. This year, Terri is excited about the ranch’s new herd of bucking horses for a fan-favorite event: open ranch bronc riding. “We purchased some big bucking horses from North Dakota, and they made their debut for the Rockin P Ranch at the June 10 ranch rodeo,” Terri said. The bronc riding is the only individual event at ranch rodeos and requires cowboys to stay on a bucking horse for eight seconds. Instead of a special saddle for bronc riding, riders use their regular, everyday saddle, since that’s what they would use to start a horse on the ranch. Another crowd-pleaser that makes an occasional appearance at Rockin P rodeos is wild cow milking. The goal of this challenging event is to rope a cow, get some of its milk into a bottle and have a runner deliver the milk to the judge — often easier said than done. The Rockin P adds a special touch when they have this event, “We use my own personal longhorn cows, which makes it that much harder for the guys, with the August • September 2017 | 23
a chalk line. Sorting requires moving steers away from the herd and across the chalk line, one at a time and in an assigned order — without letting steers with other numbers cross the chalk line. For example, if the announcer calls out four as the event starts, the team must sort steers with the numbers 4, 5 and 6, respectively. Steer branding is exactly what it sounds like, except the brands aren’t hot. Each team must rope a steer, lay it on its side, remove the rope and “brand” the calf. This event requires some running: one team member must return the branding iron to a bucket to complete the run.
six-foot horn spread, and more fun for the fans to watch,” Terri said. Although not sanctioned by the Working Ranch Cowboys Association, Rockin P follows the association’s rules as closely as possible. The Super Bowl of ranch rodeos, the WRCA World Championship Ranch Rodeo is held in Amarillo, Texas, each November. The closest WRCA-sanctioned event is held in April in Claremore, Oklahoma, although Terri wishes the Rockin P rodeos were also affiliated with the WRCA. 24 |
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“That would just be one of my dreams — to send some of these guys to Amarillo!” Terri said. In the meantime, cowboys at the Wheaton events enjoy competing for bragging rights, money and buckles. Other events in the rotation at Rockin P include steer sorting, steer branding, steer mugging, pasture team roping and trailer loading. These action-packed events all require speed, teamwork and accuracy. In steer sorting, the event begins with a small herd of cattle with numbered collars are at one end of the arena, behind
"
It ’ s amazing how our little community comes together to help each other in time of need. Terri Priest
"
Steer mugging involves roping, wrestling and tying a steer. This sometimes wild event requires a concerted effort: one person ropes the steer by the head, then other team members lay the steer on its side and tie three legs together. In order for the run to count, the steer
must remain tied for a few seconds. In trailer loading, the object is to rope a steer and load it into the trailer in a race against time. While the steer cannot be dragged by the roper on the horse, the team can pull, grab and lift the steer to get it into the trailer before closing the door and running to a designated area in the arena to stop the clock. Ranch rodeos often limit the number of teams that can compete in their rodeos. Rockin P Ranch has a maximum of 15 teams, and their evening ranch rodeos often run late into the night. Teams come from
ranches around southwest Missouri, as well as locations around the Ozarks. “We have had guys come as far as south and west Oklahoma and west Kansas,” Terri said. “Most of our teams are made up of cowboys that live right around here.”
A local team representing B & S Cattle Company was in the lead for the buckle after the first night of the series. Made up of Shane Bailey, Tyler Rollings, Anthony Newman and Zeke Reading, the team led the field by 11 points. Upcoming rodeo dates are August 5 and September 9 at 7 p.m. Rocking P’s rodeos are open to the public; admission is $6 at the gate (children under five get in free). Concessions, restrooms and bleacher seating are all available for spectators. For more information, check out the ranch’s Facebook page at www.facebook.com/ RockinPRanchArena or call 417-846-3037.
August • September 2017 | 25
Lifestyle Glamping
Glamping Pods Of America
FOR YEAR-AROUND VERS ATILITY
Glamping is what they are calling “glamorous camping,” but really, it’s kind of a vision of spending time in the great outdoors, and encompassing the best of both worlds. It’s kind of a happy medium between pitching a tent and sleeping on the ground, and buying an expensive RV (home on wheels). Utilizing a semi-permanent structure as your “home away from home,” so that when you do camp, it can feel more like an actual vacation. When camping starts to seem like a lot of work – it’s time to seek alternatives that are more permanent. Once you don’t have to worry about the drudge of packing tents, bedding, lighting – all the things that are on the checklist – you can enjoy the fun stuff. Playing with the kids, or sitting around the fire pit. Hiking and 26 |
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biking, and fishing or kayaking. And, in the evening, having a bed to sleep on makes all the difference in the world.
Glamping Pods are a great year-around way to enjoy the outdoors...but it’s a versatile concept as well.
IN THE BACKYARD: What if you had a getaway right in your backyard? Nestle it in some trees, build a fire pit, throw up some outdoor lights, add a little deck with sitting area and there you go! Bonus? It can double as a guest cabin for visitors throughout the year. Also a great campout for the kids sleep-overs.
IN SECLUSION: Have some acreage out in the big woods? A Glamping Pod ready for your wooded retreat makes it easy to literally get disconnected and off the grid to unwind and find some peace in this worlds hustle and bustle. Bonus? It can also double as that hunting cabin you always wanted. When hunting season
hits, you’ll has a restful nights sleep, and already be in the middle of the woods! ON A FARM: What a great way to share farm and agricultural experience with family, friends, or even seasonal farm help. Waking up to the crow of the rooster, mooing of cows and even oinks of pigs is a delight when folks need some space from city life. OFFICE SPACE: When you need a home office that has just a little more space, and a little more privacy, adapting a Glamping Pod for your needs might be the solution you have been looking for. The space is completely customizable, as well as insulated for year around comfort. A great way to separate your business life from your home life, yet have the benefits of working from home. BY THE WATER: Have a lake lot that you want your whole family to enjoy? Create your own family campground, where everyone has their own bunk! You’ll never regret this investment in family time that is easy, accessible and a place you’ll want to hang out every weekend!
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The pod™ is already set up when they arrive — just move in and make yourself at home. Option of having air conditioning, heat, light and other electrical devices. Avoid effects of rain, heat or cold. Privacy and security through lockable doors and windows. Benefits of an insulated structure in winter and summer. Pods come in several sizes and with options as well. A hit with kids - it’s a ‘den’ thing.
Inquire about Glamping Pods for your Park: Proven excellent customer satisfaction and high levels of return bookings. Extend shoulder seasons due to marginal weather. Attract new audiences that wouldn’t normally camp.
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glampingpodsofamerica.com August • September 2017 | 27
4
Flies for Summer Trout Park Fishermen
T
he dog days of summer are here. Wild trout are a bit scarcer, and the natural offerings are so abundant that teasing one up with on artificial is no mean feat. Southern Missouri has 5 Trout Parks, well stocked with healthy fish with hearty appetites. Mountain springs, Montauk, Bennett Springs, Roaring River and Maramec Parks are all cool water Oases in a season of sweltering heat and low water rivers and streams. Although it is tempting to get out a jar of salmon eggs, can of corn or bag of powerbait (where it's legal), why not flex your casting muscles and try to tempt a lunker trout with a stealthy artificial? Even health conscious humans get tempted by a neon colored snow cone when the temperatures get summertime hot. Here are a few attractors that may lure the elusive summer Rainbow out for a quick bite on a hot day in the park.
JOHN DEERE A simple jig that is probably best known at Bennett Springs State Park. Its basically a yellow headed jig, with a green chenile body and a matching marabou tail The jig will very often top the list for most popular artificial at the park. You can Jig fish it, or use it as a dropper on a two fly rig. You can fish it naked, tug and drift style, or under a floating indicator. Remeber to let those tailfeathers sashay a little, it tends to catch attention, and draw strikes from fiesty Salmoninae.
THE RENEGADE tied in the Fore and Aft style. It was devised in Wyoming by Taylor 'Beartracks' Williams around the late 1920's. Ernest Hemingway enjoyed fly fishing and was a big fan of this pattern, maybe because he felt a kindred spirit with both it's fish catching prowess and it's name. Some patterns just work, and it's hard to explain. That'd be the Renegade. It works in smaller sizes as a mating midge cluster, but also works in larger sizes as an all around dry fly attractor for those times when you feel like fishing a dry but nothing is rising. Midges or gnats, with small dark bodies and whitish wings are the staple diet of most trout. The Renegade can be fished completely dry using Gink, or your favorite float goop. You can try it as an emerger just under the surface of the water, or it can be fished dry and then pulled under and stripped at the end of the float. Place your bet and take your chances. Chances are, you may draw a strike with this little scamp. 28 |
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BY JESSE WOODROW
BED SPREAD This mini Jig was invented by Bob Gaston, owner of Gaston's tackle shop at Bennett springs. Mr. Gaston tied the original fly from an old cream colored bedspread that had un-raveled and his mother-in-law was throwing out, thus the name. Once the fly caught-on, Bob purchased a lasting supply of the material. Bob is no longer in business, so, this fly maybe hard to add to your fly box. The jig is sometimes called the Meat Fly, Flesh Fly or Gut fly. It resembles a hunk of flesh from a dead or skinned trout. If you get near the cleaning station, and see trout runing with or fighting over trout scraps, throw on a bed spresd. Fish it under an indicator, or free float it. There are many colors available, but granny’s original off white is the all time classic.
SAN JUAN WORM The nymph pattern was first developed on the San Juan River below Navajo Dam in New Mexico to imitate the river's large population of aquatic worms. They look very much like earthworms or miniature night crawlers. They come in a variety of mostly neutral colors. New Mexico trout feed on them extensively and find flamboyant colors an added attraction. Ozark trout also have a taste for little wrigglers, be they live ones, power bait imitations, soft plastic, or in this case fiber tied replicas. Dead drift them near the bottom with an indicator or tight line technique. Natural colors work best in clear slow areas, while bright colors are good in high, cloudy or fast moving water.
My advice to you during these steamy days of summer is: be patient, take it slow, and stay out of the sun if you can. Remember, trout like it cool and shady, especially when the sun is high. Early and late in the day are usually the best feeding times. Stay hydrated, and snack often to keep your body energized. One thing that seems pretty obvious, but is often not discussed in fishing columns is, be on the look out for snakes. Most are non poisonous, but I keep plenty of distance when I see one. If I'm close enough to see the shape of their eyes, I'm close enough to get bitten. When in doubt, steer clear. Stay safe and happy fishing!
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www.fohnfuneralhome.com August • September 2017 | 29
BACK HOME in the HILLS
Joe’s Visitor BY LARRY DABLEMONT
J
oe stepped through the front door of his cabin onto his porch and walked right into a spider web, with a spider the size of a quarter running across his face. He noted how hot it was for September and cussed the abundance of spider webs. His old hound lay there on the porch scratching away. For some reason, Joe just had all he could take. He looked toward the heavens and asked God if He had any idea just what he was doing when he made spiders and snakes and fleas and carp. He sat down in his old rocking chair and nearly jumped out of his skin when he became aware that he was not alone. “Who the dickens are you and where did you come from?” he said with a start, although it was obvious who the visitor was… It was an angel, you could tell by the halo and the wings. “God sent me to talk with you,” the stranger said with an angelic voice. “You complain constantly anymore Joe, and you once were so happy and cheery. What would it take to make you less grumpy, a little more satisfied with life?"
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“Well, you just caught me at a bad time, is all…” Joe answered, “I’m sorta cranky this mornin’ because I didn’t sleep well last night with this sore back, and that thunderstorm yesterday washed all the gravel off my road and the handle is broke out of the shovel… an’ my old hound is full of fleas.” “Maybe we can fix the flea problem,” the angel said, “I can send some snow in a week or so and get the temperature down in the twenties for awhile.” “Now see, there’s what aggervates me,” Joe said. “Everything is so extreme. When it rains it just pours down in buckets, and when it don’t, it don’t for weeks at a time. Now it’s been 85 degrees for a week and you’re fixin’ to give us a freeze-up and a snowstorm! Why can’t there be a happy medium?” The angel just smiled… “You are thinking of heaven Joe. This is the earth you are living on. Men have made the weather what it is by activities that lacked much wisdom over the centuries. But since you have been a good man, to some extent, over the majority of your lifetime, maybe I can speak to the Creator in your behalf and have some things done to your liking. What are the things you would most like to see changed in your life besides the weather?” Joe thought about that for a moment, as he glanced at the angel, trying to figure out how this could all come about. He had assumed this visit meant he was about to be escorted to the pearly gates to explain a lot of things. Now it appeared someone actually cared what he thought. “Well,” he said as he rubbed his hands over his white beard. “There’s some little things I guess, like tomatoes. I’d like to see tomatoes get ripe about the first of June around here and keep growin’ ‘til about the first of October… I reckon that ain’t too much out of line.” “I think it is a reasonable request,” the angel said, “because it would be a good thing for many, and I assume you are thinking a bit of your neighbors.” Buoyed by that affirmation, Joe continued. “And it would be nice if we had a couple of years with no snakes
nor mosquitoes or fleas and none of these dad-blamed spiders… excuse my language there.” The angel nodded, more unselfish things which would be good for everyone in the river valley. He bade Joe to go on. “Well they’s other things,” the old man said. “Like that hole down there in the river where I fish. There’s carp in there that’ll go 10 pounds, lots of ‘em. But I only caught three walleyes last spring and there wasn’t a one of them bigger than 18 inches. Seems like if God was payin’ attention when he made that river he’d at least of made the walleyes outnumber the carp or made the walleyes big and the carp little.” “But Joe,” the angel said, “If you had plenty of big walleye, catching them would not be the challenge you now enjoy, and you would be tired of eating them so much. Why there was a time long ago that men who lived along this river complained because there were so many fish and not enough chickens! And as for the carp, God didn’t put them here in your river, men did.” Joe rubbed his beard again, and thought to himself that whoever brought those carp to the Ozarks ought to have been looked at awfully hard before they were let into heaven. “Well, that may be,” he said, “but how come the chicken hawks outnumber the bobwhite quail, and there’s more coyotes any more than they is rabbits? Maybe you could do something about that… for the good of all mankind that is.” “I understand, Joe,” the angel said, smiling, “and while I can’t promise anything, I certainly will make your feelings known. It is commendable of you to think of others this way, but what would you have me do just for you?” Joe thought hard about that, wondering if the angel wasn’t just having some fun with him. What was the puzzle? Surely that angel knew how he loved to hunt quail and rabbits. “I suppose I’d like to get me a goodsized buck this fall,” Joe said. “Them neighbors of mine spotlight the big ones ever year, why all I got the last year was a forkhorn and a six-pointer that had ears bigger than his antlers. An’ I’d just once
like to sneak up over that pond bank of mine about Christmas time and see a big flock of greenhead mallards again… instead of them darn coots. What made God create coots, I wonder?” “And I reckon it’d be a great Thanksgiving if I could get a wild gobbler instead of some little old scraggly hen turkey,” he continued. Then too, maybe we could have one mild winter, with no snow for a change. Last year I was out tryin’ to cut firewood with snow up to my… well… it’d be nice to see jonquils by the middle of February.” “I understand Joe,” the angel said, as the heavenly guest rose and prepared to leave. “It makes it hard for me sometimes. The little Thompson twins have been praying for a white Christmas, you know. But…if you are willing to leave with me, you can have all you wish for and much more in heaven. It’s a nice place.” Joe became a little nervous… “I figured I was still a little young for that,” he said, “and besides I got grandkids and neighbors that’s gonna need me around here for a spell. I reckon I won’t need so much after all, if I stay around here. Things ain’t been so bad, if you get right down to it. Most of the time, I’m plumb happy.” “It’s good to hear you say that Joe,” the angel said with an understanding nod and a smile. “It’s just that you complain so much I have been worried about you. And remember, only a few years ago you vowed that if God would let the Cardinals win the World Series you’d be so happy you’d never ask for another thing!” Later that day, Joe headed for the river with his old hound alongside, and his fishing rod over his shoulder. He was whistling as he went, enjoying that beautiful September day, counting his blessings.
E-mail Joe and Larry, at lightninridge@windstream. net, or write to them at Box 22, Bolivar, Mo. 65613. The website is larrydablemontoutdoors.blogspot.com
August • September 2017 | 31
A NATIVE AMERICAN
PEMMICAN SURVIVAL FOOD
STORY BY LAYNE SLEETH, PHOTOS BY BRIAN AND LAYNE SLEETH
Fair warning: this is probably not what you would expect from a food DIY.
pemmican noun pem·mi·can \'pe-mi-k n\ a concentrated food used by North American Indians and consisting of lean meat dried, pounded fine, and mixed with melted fat; also : a similar preparation (as of dried beef, flour, molasses, suet) used for emergency rations Merriam-Webster Dictionary e
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Pemmican is a food invented by Native Americans, most likely Algonquin native peoples of Canada. Pemmican is an equal part mixture of meat, rendered fat, and berries. It’s a resourceful little meat bar packed full of essential nutrients that will be edible for years, kept in any conditions. No refrigeration is required. Though it can be customized to suit different seasonings and additives, it may be an acquired taste for some. Additionally, pemmican is not going to win any food photography awards with it’s plain appearance. Yet, it is an amazing food for outdoor enthusiasts, Paleo diet followers and those looking for a good shelf-stable survival food. In fact, it is known as the “ultimate survival food”. Pemmican has all of the necessities to energize you in the backwoods. The word pemmican comes from the Cree (language of the American Indian people of Canada) word for fat. In the 18th and 19th century, it was likely that European fur traders that interacted with American Indians adapted pemmican for their own use out in the wilderness. The first “known use” of the word pemmican came up in writing in 1743, from James Isham’s Observations on Hudson’s Bay, that included a Cree-English dictionary. Traditionally, Native American peoples would cut meat into slices, which was commonly deer, elk, moose or bison meat, and dry it over a low fire until it was in a jerky-like state. They then would pound the dried meat into a fine powder with stones and mix it with rendered, or melted, animal fat. Whatever fruit was available would also be dried and added in with the meat and fat mixture. Typically berries were abundant, so those berries would be incorporated into this calorie dense food. With the uptick in popularity of survival foods and superfoods, there are actually packaged versions of pemmican sold on grocery store shelves. Epic Provisions is one brand that is capitalizing on variations of pemmican bars with unique flavors such as “Bison Bacon Cranberry Bars”, “Currant Mint Lamb”, and “Habanero Cherry Beef ”.
How to make pemmican with mod e rn t ech no l o gy: Bison once roamed from Mexico to Canada and were one of the prime food sources for many Native American peoples. Thus, it seemed appropriate to recreate this historical food with bison meat from Ratchford Farms, a bison farm out of Harrison, Ark. The first step in the pemmican process was to make a jerky out of the bison meat. In a bowl, we mixed 1 pound of the ground bison meat with seasonings. We added 1 teaspoon ground black pepper, 1 teaspoon curry powder, 1 teaspoon ginger powder, 1/4 teaspoon coriander, 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes, 1 teaspoon onion powder, a dash of salt, 1/2 Tablespoon Worcestershire sauce and 1/2 Tablespoon soy sauce and mixed well with the meat. The more salty, the longer the pemmican will last. Then we pressed the meat onto a baking sheet. Placing wax paper on top of the ground meat mixture, we then used a rolling pin to flatten it into the pan. With a dull knife we scored strips about one-inch wide, and placed the pan into the oven at 180 degrees, F., for 3 hours (leaving the oven door slightly cracked open for air flow). After 3 hours, the jerky was still in need of some drying and toughening, so I put the strips into the food dehydrator at 155 degrees for three to four more hours depending on how big the batch of jerky was. You want the meat to be dry enough that it cracks when you bend it. This is where I would turn the jerky into a powder with stones if I were re-enacting traditional pemmican-making methods. However, I found it more appealing to throw the bison jerky into my Ninja blender and pulse until the meat was crumbly and fine. We poured the meat out into a mixing bowl and added some dehydrated tart cherries to the blender and chopped those. We incorporated the meat powder and fruit together, and in the meantime melted pig fat on the stovetop on low heat, stirring occasionally. You would add any other dry extras at this point, like nuts, before you add the fat. Add the fat to the bowl and stir everything together. A good rule of thumb is for every two parts of dried meat mixture, add one part fat. Add wet ingredients at the end. We decided to add some local K & B honey to the mix to sweeten it up a bit more. Maple syrup or peanut butter might also be good additions. Keep in mind, though, that these additives will reduce the shelf-life of your pemmican.
THE WORD PEMMICAN COMES FROM THE CREE (LANGUAGE OF THE AMERICAN INDIAN PEOPLE OF CANADA) WORD FOR FAT.
Lastly, we pressed the pemmican into a baking dish lined with wax paper, formed with a rubber spatula and set the dish in the refrigerator to set up. Cut the pemmican into squares or bars and store in an airtight container in a cool, dry, dark place. Or place in Ziploc bags in the freezer. I wrapped my pemmican bars in wax paper and shared with friends and family. Pemmican can include any number of things, but the basic recipe is meat, dried fruit and animal fat (ratio of 1:1:0.5). We made several batches with the bison meat, the second time adding golden raisins and honey, as well as a small handful of walnuts. What does it taste like? It is sweet and savory, just like you would imagine a meat and fruit bar would taste. The bison meat has a great flavor. Though pemmican is probably not something you’re going to serve at Sunday dinner, it tastes pretty darn good. On a camping trip, pemmican would taste like 5-star cuisine. August • September 2017 | 33
Good For You
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s consumers there are so many options when it comes to meat purchasing. Sometimes it is overwhelming and confusing, especially when deciding what are healthy choices for our families to consume. Well, here is another healthy choice for your consideration. Buffalo (or Bison) meat is healthy, lean and locally available. Buffalo are usually grown and ranched on small farms where they are grown from birth to butcher – and not sent to a feed lot like most beef cattle.
Ratchford Farms also has accommodations for overnight guests on their buffalo ranch! Stay in this little cabin located right on the farm and enjoy the sites and sounds of a real home on the range. They have a variety of critters that their guests enjoy feeding, petting and watching. Call L.C. Ratchford at 870-448-5179 for reservations and more details.
Buffalo Beef
Buffalo are only semi-domesticated, and are fairly docile and can be farmed, but still retain some of their wild tendencies. They breed seasonally and usually calve in the Spring like other wild animals. They can thrive in about any environment in the United States. Though care of these animals is comparable to beef cattle, fencing and maintenance take a little more consideration. Producers rarely find it necessary to use antibiotics, and the meat available commercially is generally classified as organic because of the typical growing methods of buffalo, and overall health and immunity of buffalo are high when compared to beef cattle. Buffalo are large and can take up to three years to reach butchering size. The meat is tender, mild and lean. Nutritional information shows that buffalo meat is low in calories, fat and cholesterol, high in protein and other nutrients.
Specializing in land, ranches and farms Office licensed in Missouri and Oklahoma Member of two Multi-list Systems
417.226.3363
obrienrealty.biz 34 |
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Donnie & Tammy O’Brien, agent/owners 26 Peacock Lane, Jane, MO
Ratchford Farms, in Marshall, Arkansas, maintains a growing herd of buffalo that is used for meat production. This completely locally produced meat is available around the Ozarks, where L.C. Ratchford personally makes deliveries. Ratchford Farms Buffalo Meat is available in Missouri and Arkansas at these locations: ARKANSAS Ozark Natural foods Fayetteville Marys Health Food Store Springdale Cooks Natural Foods Store Rogers Eureka Market and Harts Family Center Eureka Springs Hudsons Grocery Harrison The Meat Shop Mt. Home You can also eat one of our buffalo burgers at the Board Walk Cafe in Jasper. MISSOURI Harter House Markets Strafford Harter House Shell Knob Harter House Kimberling City Herb Shop Branson West Natures Sun Shine Brason Ratchford Farms is located at 2060 Trout Farm Road. Marshall, Arkansas. 870-448-5179
Buffalo and Rice Stuffed Peppers 4 red peppers (halved, seeds and stem removed) 1 medium onion diced 1 carrot diced 3 cloves garlic grated 1 lb. ground bison 2 cups sliced mushrooms 1 tsp. dried oregano 1 tsp. dried thyme 1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce 1 Tbsp. brown mustard 1 tsp. salt 1/2 tsp. chili flakes 2 Tbsp. ketchup 14-ounce can tomato sauce 2 cups cooked brown rice 1/2 cup shredded cheese fresh parsley minced – optional
Green Bean and Buffalo Stir Fry 1/2 pound ground bison 2 large garlic cloves, minced 1 Tbsp. minced fresh ginger 3 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 Tbsp. cornstarch 1 tsp. sugar Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbsp. canola oil 1 pound green beans One 12-ounce block silken firm tofu, cut into 1-inch cubes 1 cup low-sodium beef or chicken broth 1 1/2 tsp. Chinese chile-garlic sauce 2 scallions, thinly sliced cooked rice to serve with
Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees, F., and place red pepper halves in a large glass baking dish; set aside. Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat with 1 tablespoon oil. Add diced onion and carrot. Cook onion until softened, 3-4 minutes. Add garlic and bison. Brown the bison while stirring on medium-high heat. While bison is browning, add mushrooms and seasonings. Once mushrooms have lost most of their moisture and bison is browned. Stir in the tomato paste. Pour in the tomato sauce and brown rice. Mix till combined. Fill each pepper half with a heaping half cup of mixture. Sprinkle each with shredded cheese. Cover pan with foil and bake until peppers are soft, about 30-40 minutes. Remove foil from the pan and broil peppers for 30-60 seconds to brown the cheese and form a bubbly crust on top. Garnish with freshly minced parsley to serve.
In a medium bowl, mix the ground bison with the garlic, ginger, 1 Tbsp. of the soy sauce, 2 tsp. of the cornstarch and the sugar. Season the meat lightly with salt and black pepper and let stand for about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, in a skillet, heat 1 tsp. of the canola oil. Add the seasoned meat, breaking it up into small bits with a spoon, and stir-fry over high heat until browned. Transfer the meat to a bowl. Add the remaining 1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. of oil to the skillet, and when it is very hot, add the green beans and stir-fry until crisp-tender, about 3-5 minutes. Add the tofu cubes and stir-fry until the tofu is lightly browned in spots and the beans begin to blister, about 3 minutes longer. Return the meat to the skillet and stir gently to slightly break up the tofu. In a small bowl, whisk the broth with the Chinese chilegarlic sauce and the remaining 2 Tbsp. of soy sauce and 1 tsp. of cornstarch. Add the sauce to the skillet and bring to a boil. Simmer until the beans are tender and the sauce is thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the sliced scallions. Transfer the stir-fry to bowls and serve immediately. Serve with rice.
August • September 2017 | 35
Peach Perfect Peaches
P
eaches are a treasure. Seems like here in the Ozarks we can nurture an amazing tasting peach...if they survive late frosts, blights and fungus, and a plague of Japanese beetles or June bugs. Fortunately, we have several orchards in our region that know how to deal with each of these calamities – so if your homegrown peaches don’t produce, fresh local peaches are still available! Of course, there is nothing more perfect than sinking your teeth into a fresh, soft, ripe peach that is dripping with essence and flavor perfection. But, once you cannot eat anymore – you might consider one of these peach recipes. Here are a couple of desserts, a great jam, and a tasty salsa.
Pretty Peach Salsa 6 cups peaches, diced 1 1/4 cups red onion, chopped 4 jalapeno pepper, chopped 1 red pepper, chopped 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro, loosely packed (optional)
1/2 cup white vinegar 2 Tbsp. honey 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 tsp. cumin 1/2 tsp. cayenne 1/4 cup fresh lime juice
Remember to be careful when working with hot peppers, use gloves and don’t touch face or eyes. Removing seeds and white pith will lower the heat level of the salsa. Simmer all ingredients for 5-10 minutes. Pack into sterilized hot jars and process in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes.
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Peach Cobbler 1/2 cup unsalted butter 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 1/2 cups sugar divided into 3/4 cup each 1 Tbsp. baking powder 1/4 tsp. kosher salt 1 cup milk 4 cups fresh yellow peaches (about 4 large, cut into slices) 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1/4 tsp. lemon zest 1/4 tsp. cinnamon 1/8 tsp. nutmeg Preheat oven to 375 degrees, F. Melt butter in a large baking dish or dutch oven. Combine flour, 3/4 cup sugar, baking powder and kosher salt in a medium bowl. Add milk and stir just until dry ingredients are incorporated. Without stirring, pour batter over melted butter. Heat remaining 3/4 cup sugar, fresh peach slices, lemon juice, lemon zest, cinnamon and nutmeg over medium-high heat, stirring constantly. Cook until sugar has melted and all ingredients are fully mixed. Without stirring, pour the peach mixture over the batter. Don't worry: the crust will form over the peaches during baking. Sprinkle cobbler crust with additional cinnamon or nutmeg, if desired. Bake cobbler for 40-45 minutes or until golden brown. Delicious served with vanilla ice cream.
Peach Fried Pies
Jalapeno Peach Jam 3½ lb. ripe yellow peaches 1½ cup sugar 2 small jalapeño peppers (seed and pith removed) 5 strips lemon peel and lemon juice from one lemon 1 tsp. canning salt Peel and chop peaches and add lemon juice to help retard browning. In large saucepan, bring peaches (with lemon juice), sugar, jalapeños, lemon peel and salt to a boil. Adjust heat to simmer and cook for 30 minutes. With potato masher, lightly mash fruit. Discard lemon peel. Ladle mixture into sterilized canning jars and jar properly (with sterilized jars and lids in boiling hot water bath for 15 minutes) or refrigerate for up to 3 months.
Crust: 1 cup all-purpose flour ½ tsp. Salt ¼ cup shortening or butter ½ cup milk Oil for frying Filling: 1 peach, diced ¼ cup sugar 2 tsp. corn starch Cook filling ingredients in shallow pan until thick and peaches are cooked through – about 15 minutes. Cool. Mix flour, salt and cut in shortening or butter. Add milk and stir till dough is made. Heat one-inch of oil in small pan on medium. On floured surface, gently roll out a golf-ball size piece of dough to about six-inches in diameter. Place 2 tablespoons filling in center, moisten edges of dough and fold over. Crimp edge. Fry in hot oil, turning once and cooking until golden brown. Can serve plain or with drizzle made of powdered sugar, vanilla and milk. This recipe makes 4 to 6 pies.
August • September 2017 | 37
Repurposing Revolution
Put to Good Use BY CHRISTI EDEN, GUEST WRITER
I’ve always had an odd sense of style, and I’ve honed it over the years.
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I started by picking up a few rusty items and some broken-down furniture at garage sales: a buffet, some ice cream chairs, an old wood stove. I also accumulated things from the Monett city-wide clean-up trash. I’d find some broken spindles or some metal troughs that could be used for flower planters. I’ve even collected old tins from freecycle groups. I’ve scavenged condemned houses and barns for old oak or vintage cabinets or square-head nails or rusted U nails and hinges.
I’ve bought $5 solid wood doors at garage sales and old-lady chokers at the same. I know when I see something whether I like it and will eventually use it. I have a shed full of things I intend to use eventually. Often, I’ll find a piece to match another one I’ve saved for years, and it will all come together. That’s how I finally got a complete set of vintage utility cabinets. I have made the occasional purchase at flea markets, too – but rarely do I buy things for very much money. I usually put together a menagerie of things that feel right and look good to me. We bought an old house about twelve years ago, and we saved every piece of old oak from the walls we tore down and used it to make cabinets and trim and a breakfast bar. This is where my obsession with old oak began. A little sanding and a lot of polyurethane turns that wood into something you can’t buy. When a friend’s barn went down in a tornado, we were even able to get a beam made of the oak and a track for a barn door. We used some of the oak to make some boardand-batten siding on the south wall of our living room. We used the beam as a weight-bearing feature in place of the wall. We built an oak door with some of the rest of it and used the track to hang it in the living room. The woodstove I bought for $100 at a garage sale has saved us thousands in propane costs since we’ve used it. I originally bought it for a decoration, with no intention of using it; but one winter in this drafty house made the woodstove a necessity. It keeps us toasty warm all winter long, sometimes forcing us to open the front door to let out some of the heat.
I once found some vintage utility cabinets in a house that was about to be torn down. I have those cabinets hanging in my house today. I added to these cabinets over the years with other cabinets that I found in a friend’s garage. I now have a complete, mismatched set. (In that same house, I found a railway cart they had been using to haul wood; it is now my coffee table.) I bought some tins from a flea market and put them above my dining room table, making an outline of old oak for them. I also acquired some tins for free from a freecycle group and used them as the backsplash in my kitchen. My kitchen cabinets are made from some tins I found in a flea market and some old barn oak. I used some tin from the Pierce City tornado to make a series of wall base rectangles in my living room. I used halved old porch beams on the ceiling in my bedroom in lieu of beams, and I used the spindles I had found in the Monett trash to make a chair rail in the same room. I used a rusty rake head to hang my necklaces and also found some brass chandeliers at a garage sale to use for lighting in my room. We picked up the rocks that we rocked the front of our house with from a field in Washburn. The bricks that are on the front of our house are from a street in Chicago, but we bought them at an architectural salvage in Springfield.
I am a sucker for rusty hinges and toys from my youth. I have a cedar chest full of my old toys, and one never knows when she is going to need a rusty hinge. I have quite a collections of Es on one wall in the dining room. Some were meant to be Es, and some are just trash that looks like an E. I love my Eden wall. I collect old jelly jars to use for drinking glasses and old, chipped plates to use for dishes. I am convinced I will always have children in this house, so I had better use the antique plates now. For a long time, I collected Melmac, which I love, but it is not microwaveable. We have made lights from pot lids. We have used horse bits for door handles. We have refinished $5 old wooden doors for interior doors our house. We have taken the pine paneling and front door from the house I grew up in for use in our bedroom. We have hung macramé hangers and Ball canning jars for betta fish. I’ve used old picture frames for anything from cork boards to outlines to actual picture frames. We have made just about anything you can imagine from old barn oak: cabinets, thresholds, trim, etc. We have used chicken feeders to hang plants and hold knickknacks. Tractor tires for planters? I’m your gal! I have used old window coverings for planters. I’ve even dug up an old bed from the ground and used it as it was intended; in fact, I sleep on it every night.
"The bricks that are on the front of our house are from a street in Chicago, but we bought them at an architectural salvage in Springfield." I hung a wagon wheel on the ceiling in my kitchen to hold kitchen tools. I use an old double wash-tub for dirty clothes baskets. I use old scales to hang plants; they show the water amount or lack of water. We built a spice rack from a chicken crate. I hung the door from my grandpa’s old shed in the kitchen and put memorabilia of him on it. We used an old stove top for storage above our stove and an old scale centerpiece on our dining room table. We have welded old metal porch posts for trellises in our yard. I use the rusted and chipped red and white granite pots for my annual flowers. I have shelves made from (unaltered) pieces of a piano from the 1800s. You cannot beat old stuff. It lasts longer and looks better than anything you can buy today. I always try to make it a point to not change the original use of the item I’m working with. I want it to still be functional if need be. I don’t like crafty; a lot of antiques are ruined in the name of the popular craft of the week. I like unique. I try never to harm the original item. August • September 2017 | 39
HOME Sweet HOME
All the homes listed in this issue are homes nestled on the countryside with acreage If you are living in the Ozarks paradise, might as well find the home of your dreams too, right? Here are a few country homes in the area to get your search started.
Homesteading Heaven
Easy and Spacious
This home and property comes equipped with springfed water, completely constructed high tunnel and established garden area, nearly 40 acres of pasture and woods and barns and outbuildings as well. A beautiful, decked home with attractive wood features and even has a cozy loft and full basement. This property is ready for small livestock, horses, production gardening and is located in a beautiful valley near Arkansas, just west of Rocky Comfort, Missouri. Rob Lotufo, 417-319-4367 A-List Properties Premier in Monett, Missouri
Great family home just outside Cassville, Missouri. Located in Cassville school district, close to town and the Crowder College Cassville location. The open floor plan is a breath of fresh air, with a solid, low maintenance constructed exterior. Large master suite and living areas. Also has a iarge deck in back, perfect for entertaining and enjoying our beautiful Ozark falls. Established yard and landscaping, with a huge three car garage. Rob Lotufo, 417-319-4367 A-List Properties Premier in Monett, Missouri
Dream Ranch
Ranch Ready
Fresh air and serenity surround this 223acre ranch located in the beautiful, quiet countryside just west of Monett, Missouri. This home and property is Century Home registered with the University of Missouri Extension – and the first time it has been on the open market. This is a working farm with 7 ponds, wet weather spring, hayfields, good fence and welded pipe corral, among other shops and buildings. Gentle rolling acreage with walnut trees, and a great combination of pasture and trees. Need to relax? It also has an inground pool! Julie Vaughn, 417-365-1190 A-List Properties Premier in Monett, Missouri
Eighty-acre working cattle farm with spacious, well-designed home nestled in the trees in between Monett and Pierce City, Missouri. With an open floor plan and many windows that overlook a beautiful backyard and pasture. Outbuildings to keep equipment and vehicles with a 2-car attached garage, 2-car detached garage, loafing shed, hay barn, lean-too and catch pen. Fenced and crossed-fenced and is equipped with water hydrant ran to back 40 acres. Julie Vaughn, 417-365-1190 A-List Properties Premier in Monett, Missouri
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If you have a unique property that you would like to find the perfect buyer for, contact us at ozarkhillsandhollows@gmail.com 417-652-3083 OZARK Hills&Hollows
TURPENTINE CREEK WILDLIFE REFUGE
An Exciting Adventure That’s Making a Big Impact!
N
estled within the beautiful Ozark Mountains rests one of the largest USDA licensed big cat sanctuaries in the United States. Since 1992, Turpentine Creek Wildlife Refuge has served as a non-profit sanctuary to over 100 rescued big cats and other exotic wildlife including: lions, tigers, bears, and so many more! Given all that it has to offer, the refuge is considered to be one of the top 10 attractions in the state of Arkansas! And with a qualified staff of biologists and zoologists, Turpentine Creek is able to provide daily tours in which guests can learn more about these fascinating animals and what we can do to protect them!
caroling lions and chatty tigers – who have finally been given the opportunity to a second chance at life. Your tickets, lodging, and gift shop purchases all go directly back into the care of these magnificent creatures, making
your visit not only a fun and educational family event, but also, a way to ensure that survivors of the exotic pet trade have a place to call home. Turpentine Creek Wildlife Refuge truly is an exciting adventure that is making a big impact!
America’s Premier Big Cat Refuge
New Habitats & Gift Shop Guided Tours & Education Totally Wild Lodging & Camping Sponsorships & Volunteering Tours take place on the top of the hour starting at 10 a.m. with a Behavioral Management Program taking place after the final tour of the day. A plethora of lodging opportunities will give you and your family the thrilling chance to spend the night and be serenaded by a chorus of
7 miles south of Eureka Springs 479.253.5841 • TurpentineCreek.org 239 Turpentine Creek Lane, Eureka Springs, AR 72632 August • September 2017 | 41
"In order to see birds it is necessary to become part of the silence." -- Robert Lynd
A Hidden Treasure at Lake Fayetteville BY STEVE PARKER
Winter Wren from the blind in December, 2016, by David Oakley
L
et’s face it…many residents in the Ozarks take birds for granted. We see them flying through the trees, gliding above, and following the wind currents. In the spring of this year, on our local NPR station, I heard a snippet about a Mulhollan Bird Blind on Lake Fayetteville. Since I do my best to attract birds to my back yard, I was definitely intrigued – so on a brisk Saturday morning I set out to find more information. A friend had told me where I might find it, and as I approached I saw some small signs saying, “bird blind,” with an arrow. Following the signs for several hundred yards, I suddenly found the structure situated right at the edge of Lake Fayetteville. 42 |
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Kelley Mulhollan adjusts the viewing scope for a young bird enthusiast.
Except for the chirping of the happy morning birds, the world became a silent space. The ramp leading to an open door entrance invited me into an airy structure complete with wooden stools for sitting or kneeling for comfortable viewing. The viewing windows have shelves below to steady a camera or a tripod for excellent photography opportunity. The interior of the structure was beautifully designed with faceted walls and multiple viewing stations of various heights to accommodate birders of all sizes. The water was very calm, and before long a large Canadian goose descended on the water runway and began to call for friends to join. About this time I became mesmerized just enjoying this encounter. Because the blind prevents the birds from seeing the people, one can often see the birds up close with little trouble. The interior of the blind also has photos of the types of waterfowl present during different seasons. The structure was built facing the north so the sun would always be behind or above for best viewing and photography. On one of the panels is a photo of Mary Bess Mulhollan, and her late husband, Paige, giving credit to a large numbers of partners involved in the effort. I knew at that time, I needed to find out more about this hidden treasure in the Ozarks. With a phone call I found Mrs. Mulhollan, who turned me over to her son Kelley who was anxious to give me information in order to reach and encourage more people to visit and enjoy the blind. Adding to my luck, the Mulhollan family was just leaving to visit the Botanical Gardens and blind with some avid birders from San Diego, California, and agreed to meet with me. Kelley began by explaining the blind was a group effort with many individuals and organizations wanting to participate in creating the structure, but it was also a memorial for Mary Bess, and his father, the late Paige Mulhollan. Once this idea took flight (no pun intended) a planning group was formed, jokingly referring to themselves as, “The Blind Committee.” They worked for nearly two years to make the plan a reality. The City of Fayetteville offered generous support including placing the deep foundation pilings, guaranteeing the building will remain stable during serious flooding. Their efforts proved
effective, even after this year’s serious rains, the rising lake put nearly three feet of water into the blind, and the foundation remained solid. Because of the woods used in construction, the weatherproof decking, and the blind itself, the structure remained unharmed. When the water receded, Kelley headed out to clean up and found some concerned “birder” had already scooped the mud out and made a great cleanup effort.
An osprey photographed at Lake Fayetteville in April, 2016 by Joe Neal.
The complete process of how the bird blind came to fruition was quite complex. But the complexity was lessened by the connections each of the principles had with one another. Joe Neal, who
is responsible for many of the beautiful photos, was also a board member of the NWA Audubon Society and was a natural to serve on the committee. David Chapman, who was a bird author, was highly involved and instrumental before moving away to Colorado. Michael Cockram, the architect, also was a friend of the family and an eco-designer. Kelley said the committee contacted architect, Michael Cockram, of Bowerbird Design, LLC, in Fayetteville. Michael has twenty-three years of experience in architectural design having offices in Eugene, Oregon, as well as Fayetteville. He also writes about sustainable design for Architectural Record and other publications, while keeping abreast of current trends in the green building movement. After meeting with Mrs. Mulhollan and the committee, he created a beautiful open air hexagonal building located on a natural point at the east corner of the lake. The structure gives a feeling of the openair style of Frank Lloyd Wright. The site was specifically chosen on a point facing north so the sun would always be behind the viewer, offering the best photography and viewing opportunities with nearly 180-degrees of viewing capabilities. Michael estimated from start to finish, the project took nearly a year-and-a-half from concept to finality. Since designing the Mulhollan bird blind, Michael has been contracted to build a similar facility at Siloam Springs Lake. Michael did admit that he did not need another hobby, but after being involved in this project, he has become a birder himself. August • September 2017 | 43
Mary Bess Mulhollan (center) with son, Kelley, and daughter-in-law, Donna.
Inside the blind are a number of photos showing an excellent collection of the birds you might be lucky enough to see during your visit. Many of the photos are by Joe Neal, and Jackie Brown. Joe’s background is as a wildlife biologist and is currently a visiting scholar at the University of Arkansas. During the fall migration, you can usually find Joe at the blind with his digital camera two or three times each week. I met the group on the trail leading to the blind and they were already engrossed in viewing birds in the adjoining trees. Arriving at the blind with these Audubon Society members, I realized Kelley, Donna and Mary Bess could easily identify birds in the surrounding trees either by sight or sound. At this point we heard the sound of a blue-gray gnatcatcher. The viewing scope was quickly moved from the Mallard on the water, to view a female blue-gray gnatcatcher flitting back and forth feeding a nest of new hatchlings. On my way back to my car, I stopped by the Botanical Gardens to see the many feeders donated by Mrs. Mulhollan after moving to Butterfield Trail Village. Her love of birds continues as she visits the Botanical Garden frequently to refill the feeders. The garden has built a 44 |
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Mrs Mulhollan helps her guest spot a lake bird from the blind
small shed to store the seeds. Enjoying a few quiet moments on a viewing bench nearby, I observed a bright collection of visitors enjoying the seeds – probably even a blue-gray gnatcatcher. Like many of you, I would not have thought to spend much time in a building waiting for birds to land in the water, but after a few moments, time slips away and you find your breathing more regular, a calmness and stillness becoming a part
of your body and you enjoy that feeling so much you will already be planning your next visit. However, if you are lucky enough to spend some time with Mary Bess Mulhollan and her son, Kelley and daughter in law Donna, you have a walking, talking bird encyclopedia at your side. Kelley did mention the best season for viewing the many species of waterfowl was from September to early spring.
Len's weed-free gardening method allows gardeners to produce four- to five-times more per square foot in raised beds as opposed to conventional methods.
Weed-Free Gardening This soil-less solution will change the way you garden
I
STORY BY SAVANNA KAISER PHOTOS BY SAVANNA AND LEN PENSE
t's not hard to see why raised beds are a popular choice for gardeners of all ages. They're simple to construct and convenient to use. They spare our backs and knees from uncomfortably long hours working under the sun. If you grow a garden in the Ozarks, where rocks are everywhere, you probably have a raised bed or two. But have you ever considered skipping the soil altogether? What if you could garden weed-free year after year? Len Pense, from Strafford, Mo., has been showing people how to garden without dirt for years and his Gardening Revolution continues to inspire people to think outside the rows.
Len's been a gardener for as long as he can remember. He grew up during WW2 and his family's garden was a staple to their survival. Even when he joined the military, he managed to have a small garden wherever he was stationed. He moved to the Ozarks over 25 years ago and quickly learned a lesson that paved the way for his future business. “I discovered that just because you buy land here doesn't mean you get any dirt with it. It was all rocks,” says Len. Out of necessity, Len developed a soil-less solution to his problems. Before he knew it, his organic, weed-free raised bed system had launched the seventyyear-old into a new business venture. So much for retirement! August • September 2017 | 45
The No-Soil Approach His triple-threat combination consists of cotton burr compost, peat moss and rice hulls, along with his special fertilizer elements. The seeds you plant in the garden need a loose and lightweight environment to thrive. With these soil-less components, along with some trace mineral elements, you can entirely avoid introducing infectious weeds to your garden. Cotton burr compost, which consists of parts from the original plant such as the stems, hulls, and leaves, makes a great natural fertilizer, containing nitrogen, phosphate and potassium. What would normally be wasted after the cotton ginning process can be put to good use in the garden, aerating the soil, fighting harmful diseases and organisms and retaining moisture.
You too can build his raised bed system with concrete blocks, some PVC pipe and his triple threat soil-less combination of cotton burr compost, peat moss and rice hulls.
Peat moss is a heavily acidic component that comes from dried, decomposing remains of moss found in bogs. It contains beneficial bacteria and can improve the pH balance of alkaline soil, but use it only in addition to other soil amendments as it cannot offer any nutritional qualities. And as for rice hulls, which are the coatings surrounding seeds of rice before they are milled, they contribute a wonderful organic fertilizer to the mix. They also create good drainage for plants and decompose quickly with the help of earthworms. “What better way to feed your family than with wholesome foods grown organically, in a proven system that provides more food, in less space, with less work?” says Len. “This puts the fun back in gardening.”
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Ideas for Raised Beds
Are you interested in creating these high-producing raised beds in your own backyard? If done right, you can produce 4 to 5 times more per square foot in raised beds as opposed to conventional methods. And you only need a few things to make that possible. There are multiple things you can use to build your raised beds, but Len recommends using concrete blocks, which neither deteriorate nor leach chemicals into the soil like railroad ties, treated lumber or landscape timbers. It's permanent, sturdy and requires little maintenance.
The size of each bed can vary according to your specific needs, but keep it conveniently sized where you can reach from both sides to work without stepping inside. Len says that a single 4 foot wide by 16 foot long bed, requiring 64 concrete blocks, can produce nearly enough food for two people throughout the year in most areas. Once you have the outline of your raised bed measured, it's a good idea to lay a black weed protection fabric underneath the blocks first. You might even want to consider mole-proof netting, such as 1/2-inch hardware cloth or rabbit wire, as old-timers call it. Once the selected ground is properly protected, space out the cement blocks accordingly and dry stack them two high if you can afford it. You
Today on his 21-acre farm, Len teaches gardening classes and private individualized workshops out of his cabin in the woods.
won't regret it. Then fill the bed with your soil-less mixture and some fertilizer and trace mineral elements to a 16-inch depth (8-inch depth for one-level beds). For a support system, you can set short pieces of 1-1/4" PVC pipe in cement in the holes of the concrete blocks every four feet. Make the PVC pipe long enough to stand above the concrete at least 8 inches or so. Then insert smaller pipe, reinforced with rebar inside that, in vertical and horizontal rows along the bed and attach the cattle panels. You can either wire the cattle panels vertically to match the makeshift pillars or lay the panel horizontally and let the plants climb up through it to rest on top and sprawl out from there. The best part about it is that this one-time job has multiple year benefits. Your original investment is long lasting and heavily productive. You can also use flexible plastic pipe and plastic sheeting to create your own miniature greenhouse or hoop house. In the winter, use the greenhouse to extend the gardening season even longer. And in the summer, switch out the plastic sheeting for shade cloth to aid those delicate cool-weather crops.
For years to Come From year-to-year, you may need to add a little more of the soil-less components, along with fertilizer and trace mineral elements, as they will tend to settle down from the rain like dirt would, and will also decompose. Leaves make a great addition, as they produce over 80
percent of the nutrients that your plants need. Compost and other soil amendments can be helpful as well. Just be cautious that whatever you use to amend your gardens does not contain any weed seeds. Many gardeners add manure to their soil and use straw for mulching, but these additions, while they do bring benefits, also guarantee the continual livelihood of weeds. Instead of working around them or taking a hoe to them every day during the summer, cut them off at the pass. There's no need to settle for a harvest between the weeds. If you take care of your garden's foundation properly, the amazing crops that result will speak for themselves. Len has had to climb ladders to pick pole beans, enjoyed cauliflower and broccoli bigger than the size of a dinner plate and has heard from multiple customers who harvested over 250 pounds of tomatoes from one tomato plant. When our plants are not competing for their sunshine, food and water, they can thrive beyond our expectations. Growing in condensed areas, whether by choice or necessity, no longer has to equal smaller crops. Not if your "soil" is able to do its job and provide a healthy environment.
Len at Work
Today on his 21-acre farm, Len teaches gardening classes and private individualized workshops. He loves to show folks how to grow their own weedfree gardens with hands-on training. He also gives canning classes during the peak summer season and has done several radio shows. His Gardening Revolution method allows for everyone – even the inexperienced and those who don't have a lot of space – to garden successfully. With an organic soil-less solution like this, weeds won't be an issue. No hoeing or power equipment will be needed. You can sit back and watch your gardens grow like they're supposed to and leave the weeds for extinction. You'll undoubtedly be the talk and envy of the neighborhood.
For further information about Len Pense and his Gardening Revolution, call (417) 736-3251 or visit his website www.gardeningrevolution.com August • September 2017 | 47
Holler from theHills
Got something you want to share? Send letters and photos to Ozarkhhart@gmail.com, or mail them to: Ozark Hills and Hollows, P.O. Box 214, Exeter, Mo 65647
While camping at roaring river state park near Cassville, Missouri, Nova, a Morkie owned by the Nichols family, enjoyed a snack of homegrown green beans before supper.
Jay Bowsher, of rural southwest Missouri, enjoys raising many varieties of chickens. Among his favorites is the Dorking Chicken. Dorkings are a very unique breed that has 5 toes, and white skin (most of the breeds we have in America have yellow skin). It is thought to be one of the earliest domesticated chicken breeds in Europe.
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Samuel, Nicole and daughter Brianna Capehart (and another baby Capehart on the way!) at Mill Springs State Park in Monticello, Ky.
Daughter of Max and Michelle Leverich, Asalee curiously approached momma hen with 19 baby chicks on a rainy 4th of July.
Sterling, an Ozarks native, took his visiting cousins, Evann and Nick, to one of his favorite places: Roaring River State Park in Cassville, Missouri. They checked out the hatchery, fed the fish and hiked Deer Leap Trail for a photo op.
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DESTINATION
Ozarks ST ET TE R W IT H KAYL A BR AN
The Road to the Ozarks’ Grand Canyon JASPER, ARKANSAS STORY AND PHOTOS BY KAYLA BRANSTETTER
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A
scenic road through Mark Twain National Forest carried my husband and I south – through mountain-filled landscape and under the vibrant blue of a summer sky. Mile by mile, the small towns of Arkansas receded behind us. Ahead, I caught glimpses of the blanketed green ridges of the Ozarks Grand Canyon south of Jasper, Arkansas. The landscape that my husband and I admired is the product of the Buffalo River, which flows west to east, 1,414 feet below at one of the scenic points – making this the deepest canyon in the Ozarks. As my husband and I climbed the watchtower, we felt overwhelmed by the beauty surrounding us and welcoming us to nature. As we climbed down the watchtower, we desired to experience more and decided to drive to Deer, Arkansas to hike Hawksbill Crag or Whitaker Point – both names are well known by the locals.
The drive to Hawksbill Crag was an adventure that inspired my husband and I to shut off the air conditioning and roll down the windows to feel the rush of the summer wind – it felt like time stopped as we enjoyed a casual conversation through the beauty of the Ozark Mountains. As we inched toward our destination, the more surrounded we became by nature, and once
we turned onto County Road 5, the pavement ended and six miles of steep dirt road began. The road was rough – especially in the beginning – but the drive to the hike is part of the adventure. Trees and nature welcome you like an old friend. At least twice, my husband stopped the truck to admire the scenery or to admire a doe and her fawn crossing the road. Once the doe crossed the road, she stopped and looked toward us – as if she were saying hello. We eventually reached our destination, and a new adventure began. Hawksbill Crag is an easy to moderate hike approximately threemiles roundtrip and the hike ends with the number one photographed location in Arkansas – Hawks Bill Crag. Along the way, hikers encounter squirrels, blue-tailed lizards, birds, streams, and beautiful boulders and bluffs. As my husband and I hiked, we continued to enjoy each others company with conversation and complimenting the scenery. Occasionally, we would encounter other hikers, and every single hiker expressed joy and admiration of the Ozarks glamour. In fact, there is something magical about the hike – I wanted to take my time to admire the mountains and the only noise being the chirping of the birds and soft conversation with my husband. I couldn’t imagine a more perfect afternoon. Of course, no adventure is complete without experiencing food, and one restaurant my husband and I enjoyed was located in Jasper, Arkansas the Ozark Café – an establishment that has been open since 1909. The moment we walked into the restaurant, my husband and I felt welcomed and embraced the casual ambiance. We sat at our table and admired the memorabilia of signs, murals, featured magazine articles, and
a stage for live music. A bonus – the staff were hospitable and instantly made us feel like old friends. The café serves breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days per week, and if you visit, you must try one of their many various shakes. My husband and I shared a chocolate shake, and we could not even finish the delicious drink. Fortunately, we hiked afterwards. With summer fading into autumn, I highly recommend a day trip to the Jasper, Ozarks Grand Canyon, and Hawksbill Crag. This region is absolutely gorgeous and offers an endless amount of activities for visitors. If you have more time to spend, book a weekend getaway, and escape to nature’s finest.
If you’re in Barry County, I’m for you.
Chad Yarnall (417) 847-3399
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Recipes CONTINUED FROM PAGE 10
Bite-Size Corndogs
1 cup vegetable oil 1 pkg. of 8 hotdogs, cut in half, or thirds 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 cup yellow cornmeal 2 Tbsp. sugar 2 tsp. baking powder Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1/2 cup milk 1 large egg
Mac-n-Cheese Bites ½ pound elbow macaroni 2 Tbsp. butter 2 Tbsp. flour 1½ cups milk 2 cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese 2 ounces cream cheese ½ tsp. salt ¼ tsp. pepper 1 egg beaten
Heat vegetable oil in a small skillet, or pan, over medium high heat. Thread beef franks onto lollipop sticks, or skewers cut to 5-inches; set aside. In medium bowl, combine flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, salt and pepper, to taste. Add and mix well with milk and egg. Working in batches, dredge beef franks in the batter until completely covered. Add corn dogs to the skillet, 4 or 5 at a time, and cook until evenly golden and crispy, about 2-3 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Serve immediately.
Spray mini-muffin tins with cooking spray. Cook pasta according to packaged directions, drain and set aside. In a medium-size pan combine butter and flour over medium heat. Whisk until butter is melted and mixture is smooth. Slowly add milk and bring to a simmer. Add cheese, cream cheese, salt and pepper. Stir until smooth and creamy. Remove from heat. In a large mixing bowl, carefully stir pasta, sauce and egg until evenly mixed. Spoon mac and cheese into minimuffin tins and top each with bread crumbs if desired. Bake at 400 degrees F., for 15 minutes or until golden brown. Allow to cool 5 minutes before gently removing the bites. Refrigerate in airtight container.
Cracker Toffee
Date-licious Energy Bars
35 to 40 saltine crackers 2 sticks (1 cup) butter 1 cup light brown sugar 1 12-oz. Bag semi-sweet chocolate chips Line 1 large jelly-roll pan with aluminum foil, spray with nonstick spray and arrange the saltines salt-side down in a single layer. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter and brown sugar together and boil until it turns a caramel color, a few minutes. Remove from the heat and pour over the crackers, covering them evenly. Place pan in oven and bake for 3 to 5 minutes, or until just bubbly. Remove from oven and pour the chocolate chips over the crackers. When the chips melt a bit, spread them over the crackers with a knife. Transfer the pan to the freezer for 15 to 20 minutes, or until completely cold. They will form one big sheet. Break up into pieces. Store in an airtight container and refrigerate. 52 |
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1 cup nuts 1 cup dried fruit 1 cup (12-15 whole) pitted dried dates If desired, roast the nuts at 350 degrees, F., for 10 to 12 minutes, until fragrant and golden. Allow to cool before using. Combine the nuts, dried fruit, and dates in a food processor. Combine all the ingredients in a food processor. Pulse a few times just to break them up. Separate and scrape down sides between pulsing if necessary. Process continuously for 30 seconds. Keep scraping and processing until all ingredients are uniform and combined. Will form into a sticky ball. On a piece of plastic wrap, press into a thick square and chill. Wrap and chill for at least an hour or overnight. Divide into bars using a sharp knife, and clean between cuts. Wrap each bar individually with wax or parchment paper. Keep refrigerated in an airtight container.
Semi-Frozen Fruit Cups
Zucchini and Banana Bread
4 cups frozen peaches, thawed and chopped into large chunks 2 cans mandarin oranges, drained 1 can crushed pineapple, drained 1 can fruit cocktail, drained 3 medium firm bananas, chopped into chunks 1 small can frozen pineapple-orange juice concentrate, thawed 1/3 cup lemon juice
3 cups all-purpose flour 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. baking soda 1 tsp. baking powder 4 tsp. ground cinnamon 3½ cups grated zucchini 3 eggs 1 banana, mushed ½ cup vegetable oil 2¼ cups granulated sugar 4 tsp. vanilla extract 1 cup chopped pecans
Combine all in a bowl and mix until combined. Place in small disposable plastic cups and cover with plastic wrap or foil. Freeze until firm. Remove from the freezer 30 minutes before serving to thaw slightly.
Sweet-Tater Chips 2 medium sweet potatoes, scrubbed and sliced 1/8-inch thick 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 tsp. coarse salt, preferably sea salt Preheat oven to 400 degrees, F. Drizzle sweet potato slices with oil, toss, and spread them in a single layer on 2 cookie sheets. Bake, turning once, until centers are soft and edges are crisp, 22 to 25 minutes. Sprinkle with salt. Serve with salsa or a creamy ranch, bleu cheese or French onion dip.
Chocolate No-Bake Cookies 1¾ cups granulated sugar 3 Tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder ½ cup milk 8 Tbsp. butter, cut into large pieces 1 tsp. vanilla extract ¼ tsp. salt ½ cup creamy peanut butter 3 cups quick cooking oats Add sugar and cocoa powder to a medium heavybottomed saucepan. Whisk until thoroughly mixed. Add milk and butter and cook over medium-high heat. Bring to a rolling boil and boil for exactly 1 minute. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla, salt, peanut butter and oats. Drop cookies by tablespoons onto parchment paper. Allow to dry for about 10-15 minutes until the no-bake cookies have become firm.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Generously butter and lightly flour two 4 x 8-inch loaf pans. In a medium bowl, sift together flour, salt, baking soda, baking powder and cinnamon. Stir gently to combine. Shred zucchini, lightly packing it down as you measure it. In the bowl of a stand mixer beat eggs, mushed banana, oil, sugar and vanilla extract. Mix very well. Slowly add the dry ingredients (about 1/3 at a time) mixing as you go – then beat well to fully combine. With a rubber scraper or wooden spoon, stir in shredded zucchini and nuts into the batter and mix well. Pour half of the batter into each prepared pan. Bake for 45 to 60 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center of the loaf comes out cleanly. Remove from the pans and cool on wire racks.
Apple Chips 2 cups water 1 1/2 cups sugar 2 lemons, juiced 2 or 3 apples, preferably Jonathan, or Gala Combine the water and sugar and bring to a gentle boil over medium heat. Set aside to cool. Using a mandolin or sharp knife, slice each apple placing the core end of the apple in front of the blade, into rounds as thin as you can manage. Remove any seeds as you cut and dip in lemon juice. Submerge the apple slices in the syrup andsoak overnight. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees F. Remove apples from syrup and lightly dry them with paper towel. Place, single layer, on a baking sheet with parchment paper. Bake in the oven until crispy, about 1 hour. August • September 2017 | 53
This barn in Lawrence County still has its lighting rods intact.
Capturing Rural F History One Barn at a Time B AC K R OA D S P H OTO G R A P H E R A N D B A R N E N T H U S I A ST S, L I N DA A N D K E N TO N J O H N S O N
STORY BY KATRINA HINE PHOTOS BY LINDA AND KENTON JOHNSON
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or those fortunate enough to grow up in rural America or even just spend summers on their grandparent’s farm, the old barn holds a magical place in their memory. One could ponder how those sturdy old structures could cause us to drift back to a simpler time. Mind you not an easier time but a time filled with hard work, sunburns, sweat, blisters, new birth and purpose. There is just something about old barns that provoke the senses to recall the smell of sweet feed, fresh cut hay, baby calves and warm milk. One could also recollect that odious scent of green grass and sunshine or diesel fuel mixed with axle grease. But whether our senses reminisce sweet or foul, chances are that they all occurred under the roof of a glorious barn. There is a special passion about rural life that even when one no longer lives that lifestyle, they can no more separate it from their DNA than the color of their eyes. And this is true of Kenton and Linda Johnson, of McDonald County, Missouri.
You see, both Linda and Kenton spent their youth riding a cab-less tractor, not the robotic type, and hoisting hay into the deep recesses of a massive barn loft. And, both have the desire to continue telling the story of rural life through pictures taken on the backroads of the four-state region. Our nation was built on the foundation of agriculture, sown with the dreams of immigrants searching for land to build a future under the auspices of freedom. The barn stands as a clear reminder of dreams lived and fulfilled. However, the rural canvas of yesteryear is quickly fading into the mechanized push to grow more...to feed more. Still, with that modernization we are losing, one by one, the small family farm, and more importantly, its central figure, the old barn. Old barns leave an unspoken legacy across our landscape, something that the Johnson’s and few others truly understand. Barns come in all shapes and sizes, a cross between functionality and rustic art. A heritage enshrined in weathered and rusted remnants dotting the Ozark countryside. For some residents of our hills and hollows, old barns have a profound meaning. For Linda, a self-described back roads photographer, and husband Kenton, back roads driver, there is a healthy obsession with old structures: first, one-room school houses and then old barns. The couple takes to the road heading in whatever direction they point their truck, capturing pictures of old barns before they crumble from age and neglect. Linda hopes to document all the McDonald County Century Farm barns, of which there are currently 39 farms listed with MU Extension. Linda’s love of one room school houses comes naturally, since several of her relatives have been educators over the years. In fact, her grandfather taught school at Bunker Hill school a few miles up Dog Hollow Road, aka, Highway W. She would follow in their footsteps and become a high school teacher with her first job being in the Everton, Mo., area. Their farm experiences were slightly different; Linda, the daughter of Otho and Bernice Smith, grew up on Big Sugar Creek north of Pineville amid sloping hills and meadows. Kenton was raised in a two-room house on a 320-acre farm near Everton, where the land was suitable for row crops.
This old barn still provides shelter in Douglas County.
Kenton, the youngest of his siblings, was milking cows by age six and later would help the neighbors stack hay in their huge barn. “I have a lot of good memories in that ole’ barn,” he reminisces. While Kenton was used to stacking hay bales, Linda recalls putting up loose hay into her family’s barn. “Dad used a tractor with a hay loader to feed the loose hay onto a wagon while one or two of us would distribute the hay over the wagon so it would not get ‘sideheavy’ and fall off,” she continues. “The wagon pulled up under the opening of the barn’s haymow where it was my brother’s job to lower the large iron hay fork connected to a trolley system. The whole time without harming my Dad, who would grab the fork, putting it on the pile of hay. He would jump on it a while to make sure it got a lot of hay, then signaled my brother to guide the hay fork into the barn where my sister and I waited.” “Occasionally, the fork would hit the trolley wrong and trip the fork, letting the hay go and usually landing on or near my Dad,” she adds. “He was not a happy camper when that happened.” Kenton was drafted into the Army in 1966 and should have been deployed to Vietnam but instead he was stationed in Hawaii in the motor pool. The couple married later in the '70s and bought an
old “T-Frame” house that had no running water but they loved it anyway. Over the years they would move closer to Big Sugar Creek with hopes of buying Linda’s home place. While that never happened, their 115 acres is just over the hill from the old Smith farm, but Linda’s beloved barn is no longer there.
One of Kenton's favorite things is an old D Series Allis Chalmers tractor.
Linda retired first in 1998 from the local high school and Kenton continued to work until he retired in 2012 from the human resources department at Tyson Foods in Noel. Linda got Kenton into restoring D-Series Allis Chalmers tractors, but soon their photography travels really hit the road, literally. Since they prefer the oft-forgotten back roads and by-ways, they purchased two trucks, one for highway miles and the August • September 2017 | 55
getting me at the right angle...but he still does not understand why I like to take pictures of a barn completely in ruin,” she said. When Linda finds a barn with its proud back sagging or the walls leaning out, she tries to envision what it may have looked like in its prime and how it served its owners on their farm. She is fascinated by the different types of barns and their unique features, such as cupolas. Barns have evolved over time from mere shelters to structures with grain storage and haylofts. Often farmers in the Ozarks would build ‘bank barns’, taking advantage of the hilly terrain to make a multi-level barn; allowing animal access at the ground level, an upper hay loft and equipment storage below. In the Midwest, barns became larger to accommodate the agricultural mechanization and increased productivity. Their furthest journeys have taken them to Manhattan, Ks., Hot Springs, Ark., south of Muskogee, Okla., and Farmington, Mo. They decided to get a travel trailer so that they could spend the night and visit friends along the way. “I Linda and Kenton sit among her many books she has created for old building lovers told her I would love to
other for the bumpy rocking roads where old barns tend to hide. They generally travel in a 300-mile radius of McDonald County, spending hours plotting a path on their trusty Atlas to search out old structures with a story to tell. To date they have logged over 70,000 miles and taken nearly 3,500 images of old rural structures, in fact, 99 percent of their pictures are taken from the road side with an inexpensive point and shoot camera. Linda is usually the photographer but Kenton has started taking an interest in searching out the best shots. “He’s getting good at stopping quick, turning around and
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get a Class-A vehicle, you know a bus!” Kenton grins. Linda did not realize how her barn pictures would affect people until she started posting them on Facebook. Soon she was getting friend requests from people she did not know who saw her barn pictures, one, a man from Minnesota, and another, a woman from Alaska. Each person began to tell of their favorite barn memories, conveying with such deep emotion the happiness her pictures brought them. Linda’s friend list has reached 270 people, most of whom just love to look through what she has found on their most recent adventure. As people began to share childhood stories with her, she realized that she could touch their lives with something special, a book of their very own with pictures of their favorite things. Using the website, Shutterfly, Linda so far has made 38 different books of things her friends, new and old, love to see. “I consider it a ministry of sorts because it makes people happy with memories of their childhood and as a former teacher, I use them to tell young people about the way things used to be on the farm,” she adds. “I just love sharing what these structures used to do and how life was back years ago.” “I remember as a child we went to Pineville once a week on Saturday and I got a nickel to spend on whatever I wanted,” she recalls. “I wouldn’t trade my childhood for anything.” The appeal of an old barn triggers something deep in the recesses of our mind. Maybe it is childhood memories of searching for hen eggs in mounds of hay, recollections of frosty mornings sitting next to the warm body of a calf while bottle-feeding it or possibly, you recall hot summers hefting square bales into the loft above. Whatever the fascination, they have given old forgotten barns a way to convey their own silent stories. Telling of a time when the American dream to was to own a piece of land in the family name, revealing the tenacity of a farmer’s commitment or the passion to pass on something of value to the next generation. This too, is the legacy of Linda and Kenton Johnson, whose mission it is to search out the vestiges of our nation’s most endearing structures and touch people’s heart along the way.
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Learning Master from th e
Passing Down aTrade STORY BY BECKIE BLOCK
From Firewood to Art When a tree becomes stressed, something called a “burl” is created. The stress can be caused from an injury, virus or fungus. When this happens, the grain begins to mutate and grows in a crazy pattern and a huge knot-like spot grows on the side of the tree, some of which can become very large. To most people, these are ugly and basically useless. But to a wood turner, these things are a gold mine. Jerry Crowe, of Cassville, first learned about lathe-turning in 1980 when he was in the Saipan Mariana Islands. He was building a house and bought a lathe and just started turning. Most of the things he 58 |
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learned were self-taught, over a seven-year period. After he came back to the states he went to a symposium it Brigham Young in Utah. “I learned more there in three days than I had in the seven years before,” Jerry said. After the symposium Jerry kept working at it part time, but in 2003 he began to turn full time, doing 500 pieces a year at the top of his game. Kim Kenney had seen several of Jerry’s pieces in stores, and it piqued her interest. “I had to see what was Jerry’s. I wanted one really bad,” Kim said. “I ran
into him at the golf course and asked if he’d teach me how to turn. I figured if he’d teach me how, then I’d have one, and I’d have made it myself.” Jerry was willing to show Kim the ropes, but told her that there was more to it than just turning the wood. “He told me that he could teach me to run the machine, and use the tools, but I had to be able to see what it’s going to become,” Kim said. “Jerry gave me his weekends for three years, every Saturday and Sunday I was here.” She went on to add that in 2011 she decided to see if she could do it full time. With her husband’s support, she began working with Jerry full time.
A Precision Craft There are many steps to burlwood turning. The first step is getting the burls. Any kind of tree can get a burl on it, and all the wood they use is from Missouri. “Loggers know that when they find them, we’ll buy them,” Kim said. A large portion of burls that Jerry and Kim work with are cherry, but they have also used walnut, oak, red elm, and even a few sycamore, redbud and pine. In order to be useful, the burl needs to be as big as a basketball. The first step that needs to be done upon getting the burlwood is to cut them into manageable pieces. They are taken to a bandsaw and shaped up, after which
they are dipped in paraffin wax and left to sit in a kiln for at least a month. The wax keeps them from deteriorating. As the wood dries, cracks can form so the wax works to slow down the drying time. After sitting in the kiln, they place the burl on the lathe and begin to thin it down into the shape of whatever it will become. The three main things Jerry and Kim create are vases, bowls and platters. There are several specialized tools, each creating a different look on the wood. The tools are heavy, because the lathe turns at a fast speed. “It’s a very physical thing,” Kim said. “If the tools were light, it would knock you August • September 2017 | 59
After the sanding, the final step is to dip it in a mixture of three oils as a special finish, what Kim calls “the Secret Sauce,” and leave it for three days. After removing it from the oils it’s buffed and dipped in Carnauba wax to seal it. While it takes a while to get a piece completed, a lot of the time is waiting time, while the wood goes through drying phases. “It probably takes me eight hours of ‘hands on’ time to complete a piece,” said Kim. Jerry added that at the height of his career, he could put out a piece in three hours. Throughout the workshop, there are dozens of burls in different stages of the process.
around.” Due to flying shavings and the chance of a burl breaking apart, a safety shield is a must. After the basic outside shape is complete, they use different tools to do the work on the inside, until they get it to the desired shape and thickness. Because it is a flaw that creates the burl, at any time it can break and the piece you are working on is ruined, and since the lathe going at high speed during the turning, breakage can be very dangerous. During the turning, small cracks and crevices show up in the wood. While looking at them with an untrained eye would show these to be flaws, Jerry says that these add to the charm of the pieces. 60 |
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A small file is used to deepen the crack so that it can be filled with ground up stones. “We use genuine stones, crushed into a fine powder, and tamp it into the cracks,” said Jerry. “After filling the crack with stone, I glue it in and then add an accelerator to dry it faster and then we sand it down. We use turquoise, lapis and malachite. These are about the only ones you can sand down that aren’t harder than the sandpaper and they keep their color.” Once the stones are added, the pieces are sanded, with a succession of nine sandpaper grits, which start out coarse and end up very smooth. “You sand it so that when you run your hand across it, you can’t tell where the stones are,” said Kim.
Passing the Torch “I had no intentions of doing all this,” said Kim, motioning around the work area. “The first one I made, I kept. The second one I gave to my mom. Then I gave them to my family. After that I went out and bought a display case.” As Kim was starting to do more and more, Jerry was slowing down. In 2012 Jerry
“He told me that he could teach me to run the machine, and use the tools, but I had to be able to see what it’s going to become.”
took Kim to an art show. “I did my first show while Jerry was doing his last,” Kim said. While going to art shows in a great way to get their work seen, both stated that the best way to sell their artwork is through galleries. “With art shows, you make more per piece, but you might sit there all day and not sell anything, while the fees are still there,” said Jerry. “With a gallery, you pay a commission for what you sell, but you don’t have the fees.” “Tomblin’s in Cassville was the first place to let me put my work,” said Kim. Other places to find their creations is the Crystal Bridges museum store, Peter Engler’s in Branson, and Jerry has pieces in galleries in Estes Park, Colorado, West Virginia and North Carolina. The average retail price for one of their creations is $250-$600, with some pieces going higher. After working several years with Jerry, Kim now works on her own, with Jerry stopping by the shop to check on things and to visit. Kim shared that she is thankful for the things that Jerry has taught her over the years. “I have been very blessed with Jerry’s teachings, as well as having Jerry and his wife Anne both become a part of my life.” Unique Turnings by Jerry Crowe jerrcrowe@outlook.com 13858 State Highway Y Cassville, MO www.uniqueturnings.com 417-847-2747 Turnings by JusKim turningsbyjuskim@gmail.com www.turningsbyjuskim.com 417-847-7227 August • September 2017 | 61
Baseball in the Shadow of the Kihlberg Hotel STORY BY STAN FINE
A
s an eleven year old boy living in Albuquerque, New Mexico, the Memorial Day weekend ushered in the beginning of two somewhat related and important events, the start of the summer-long respite from teachers, math class and school, and the beginning of baseball season. I looked forward to that first pitch, the sound and feeling of the ball as it fell into my genuine leather Rawlings glove and the sight of the baseball as it soared into the air and over the right fielder’s head. I was particularly anxious for the 1961 school year to die as that was the summer when I was going to spend three hot Ozark months in Noel, Missouri, with my grandmother, Phoebe, my great-aunt, Rosalyn, and my grandfather, City Marshal Floyd Fine. The anticipation was almost more than I, or for that matter any young boy, could bear. A greyhound bus followed Route 66 as I was transported across New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma, Missouri and finally onto and across the Main Street Bridge that spanned the Elk River and signaled the end of my journey. The bus door opened and carrying one Samsonite suitcase, a genuine Lou Burdette Rawlings leather baseball glove and a wooden Ken Boyer Adirondack bat I stepped from the bus and onto the Noel street. There Phoebe and Rosalyn stood alongside a green Chevrolet station wagon all the while waving as if to say welcome or perhaps just to garner my attention. The drive to the North Kings Highway 62 |
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house took no more than a matter of minutes and the conversation focused mainly on the Greyhound bus and my impressions of the trip to Noel. As I exited the dull green station wagon Phoebe seemed to only then take notice of the bat and glove. “I have some bad news,” she stated. “Noel isn’t going to have a ball team this summer but maybe you can play on the Sulphur Springs team. I’ll check on that tomorrow.” I didn’t utter a single word as no relevant words came to mind; the sound of the baseball striking the leather suddenly seemed to be so faint. As the evening hours passed that day I guess that Rosalyn, known by many as a fanatical history buff, saw the disappointment on my face and decided, at least in her own way, to cheer me up. As I sat quietly yet uncomfortably in an old chair with a carved lion’s head on the backrest placed against a wall in the home’s small living room the noises created by running water and dishes rattling against one another resonated from the kitchen. Phoebe was busy cleaning up the remains of our hamburger patty, mashed potatoes and steamed carrots dinner.
I didn’t immediately see her enter the room but I heard a soft rustling noise as Rosalyn eased herself into a chair across the room. In her lap she held, and almost caressed, a large cardboard box. I suppose the elderly yet spry woman must surely have discerned the somewhat forlorn, although curious look on my face as my eyes became fixated on that cardboard box. On the box written in crudely scribbled letters was the name, Sulphur Springs, Arkansas. “What do you know about Sulphur Springs,” Rosalyn asked. As I came to know Rosalyn better I realized that she was a very blunt and to the point person. I responded, “Nothing, I guess.” Rosalyn reached into that old box and pulled out some papers and what appeared to be photographs. “Well let me enlighten you.” She said. I recall wondering what this conversation and the contents of the box had to do with baseball. I watched with mild curiosity as the curator of historical documents removed old newspaper clippings and yellowed bits of paper from the cardboard container. “What’s that,” I asked as a photograph of a large building came into view. “Well now that’s a photograph of an old Hotel,” Rosalyn replied. “Let me tell you about Sulphur Springs in its heyday and the Kihlberg Hotel.” In 1870 the area that is now Sulphur Springs was farmland owned by a family by the name of Whinnery. The natural
springs, particularly the presence of a Lithia spring, and their waters began to attract the attention of those seeking natural healing remedies. In 1884 Charles H. Hibler came to the area and immediately recognized the natural beauty of the valley as well as the potential for financial profit if the area was developed as a location where those seeking benefits from the natural spring waters could come. Mr. Hibler bought the property that is now Sulphur Springs – built the Park Hotel and encouraged investors to contribute to his plan. Hibler and his group of investors spread the word that the spring waters had almost magical healing properties. White Sulphur water would bring relief to those with liver ailments while black Sulphur water was a remedy for malaria. Lithium was recommended for nervous system problems and the alkaline/magnesiumlaced water provided some relief from intestinal maladies. The small town realized modest growth and became a minor attraction to those seeking the potential healing benefits of the spring waters, however a change was in the wind. That change was carried on steel wheels that rolled on tracks which came to an end in Sulphur Springs. In the year 1889 what came to be known as the Kansas City Railroad ran tracks from Goodman, Missouri, to Sulphur Springs. The trains from the north began carrying tourists and those with ailments to the now booming town. The Sulphur Springs Speaker Newspaper, later renamed The Sulphur Springs Record, reported the local news and published ads, which touted the health benefits of the waters which flowed from the local springs. Dr. A.H. Rowley could help those with back ailments and the Spring Street located Rexall Drug Store sold medications. If visitors wanted entertainment they could go to the Electric Movie Theatre or shoot pool at Ed McCormick’s Park Front Pocket Billiard Parlor. Lodging establishments sprang up throughout the town and all claimed to offer the finest accommodations. For a good night’s sleep visitors might choose to stay at The Park View Hotel, The Windsor Hotel, The Ozark Hotel, or others, including the five-story limestone constructed Kihlberg Hotel. The Sulphur Springs Sanitarium Hotel and Bath Company built the once
majestic Kihlberg Hotel which opened in May of 1909. It was a grand and stately building that, in its day, offered some of the finest accommodations one could expect to find in Northwest Arkansas. The regal structure was emblematic of Sulphur Springs’ growth, prosperity and popularity. In 1924 evangelist, publisher and educator John Brown bought the hotel and opened a four-year vocational college, John Brown University. In 1926 the school was renamed John Brown College and Academy for Female Students and in 1930 the Julia A. Brown School for Children, named for the founder’s mother, opened. The year 1937 saw the limestone building become home to a school designed for teacher candidates. The new venture was named after John Brown Jr., and called Camp Buddy. The next four years passed quietly at the campus as ambitious students walked through the doors and exited through those same doors and into the world outside as teachers. On the second day of January in the year 1940 tragedy struck and fire consumed much of the old Kihlberg Hotel building. A decision was made to rebuild only the first two floors of the structure and in 1951 the remnants of the once stately five-story building became the possession of the Wycliffe Bible Translators. “Well, what do you think,” Rosalyn asked. My somewhat disinterested response was, “interesting,” after all, her words, at least up to that moment, contained no mention of baseball. “I have a question for you,” she said. “When a player stands next to the funny shaped object in the dirt, home plate I think it’s called, does the tapping of the baseball bat on that thing indicate that the player with
the bat is trying to measure distance?” Great, it appeared as though the history lesson had ended and Rosalyn now wanted to talk about baseball. I thought for a moment while attempting to decipher her question prior to answering; “Yes,” almost in the form of a question, I answered. If you ask anyone now living in Sulphur Springs, Arkansas, about their town they will tell you about the beautiful park where on a summer’s afternoon one can listen to the sound made as the cool waters from the lake flow over the dam. They will talk about the tree filled hills that overlook the town as it serenely rests in the valley below. However, of the fivehundred or so residents, primarily those of many years, there are those who will talk about the springs, the day Southern Baptist Minister Billy Graham came to town, and a time when on hot summer afternoons children played baseball in the shadow of the Kihlberg Hotel. The then two-story limestone building that had once been a glorious hotel was sold to the Shiloh Community in 1968 and for a time it housed a bakery. The deed to the structure is currently in the possession of a Northwest Arkansas business entrepreneur and its future remains uncertain. Rosalyn, the would-be historian, passed away on the 6th day of July in the year 1994. It was her wish that I receive $1500.00, some old and collectible glassware and a crudely repurposed repository for papers and photographs; a large cardboard box with the words Sulphur Springs, Arkansas written on its side. Oh, I almost forgot to mention that I did play baseball in Sulphur Springs during the summer of 1961, and what a summer of baseball it was. August • September 2017 | 63
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Some Sundry Snake Superstitions of the Ozarks BY WES FRANKLIN
I never much cared for snakes.
I know some are good to have around, such as black snakes and king snakes, which help keep the rodent population down. King snakes also supposedly kill venomous snakes. Still, I'm just not a fan of any kind of snake. I once had a green snake drop out of a walnut tree, right at my feet. Startled the heck out of me. The slithery creature was harmless, of course. Still made me jump back with a shout, though. Folklorist Vance Randolph had some things to share about snakes. These were superstitions and beliefs he had picked up from Ozarkers in the
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first few decades of the 20th century. Fortunately, he jotted it all down. Take, for instance, that green tree snake I mentioned. According to Randolph, a lot of folks in the Ozarks used to believe the green tree snake was actually a “doctor” of sorts in the snake world. Oh yeah. He supposedly heals other snakes when they are sick or injured. This notion came around when the green tree snake was seemingly often found in the same vicinity as wounded snakes. As to the aforementioned king snake, they are immune to venom. The Ozarker of yesteryear said that is because when they are doing battle with a copperhead or rattlesnake they
nibble on a plant called snakeweed (Gutierrezia sarothrae), which is in the daisy family. The leaves were thought to be an antidote to poisonous venom. Randolph knew people who believed in “milk snakes.” These are serpents who feed by attaching themselves to a cow's udder and sucking the milk. The same folks may have also believed in the mythical “hoop snake”, which tucks its tail into its mouth and rolls in a hoop toward its victim. If you find your baby playing with a snake, remove the child from danger but don't kill the snake, says the old superstition. If you kill the snake, the baby will also die within a matter of a short time. My brother recently killed what we at first thought was a blacksnake. If it had been, he wouldn't have killed it, but though black in color it didn't actually look like a blacksnake. It had brown designs on its back and its head was shaped more like that of a copperhead. It turned out to likely be a non-venomous water snake, according to photos on the internet. Odd thing is, we were about a quarter-mile away from the nearest creek. We may have misidentified it too, though.
Some folks used to believe that water snakes, namely the poisonous cottonmouth, won't bite you underwater. Others believed that they can bite when underwater, but can't release their venom. I don't believe I ever want to find out. You will never find this guy noodling under some rock. Never. Supposedly if you drop a horsehair into a stream during the summertime it will instantly transform into a snake. It was also commonly believed that timber rattlers grew hair, according to Randolph. Folks used to plant gourds all around their house as a method to keep the snakes away. Supposedly a snake won't cross the gourd line. Burning old shoes in the fireplace was a method to drive any snakes out of the house, if they happened to get in. I am more apt to believe in the gourd custom. We did have a big blacksnake invade the house once, when I was a kid. My mother chopped it up with a hoe. The linoleum forever bore the scars of the great battle. If you are bit by a snake you are to burn the snake immediately, even before seeking medical attention, says the old Ozark superstition recorded by Mr. Randolph. Please note, this is a superstition. If you get snake bit, go
to the hospital. I realize I don't have to say that, but you never know. I'm rarely surprised anymore. I have an uncle who was bit by a coral snake when he was a boy. Coral snakes are a Southern snake. They have small mouths but are very poisonous. In my uncle's case, my grandfather cut open the tiny bite wound with a pocket knife and squeezed out as much poisoned blood as he could before bringing his son to the hospital. My uncle is still going strong today, at age 75. One old Ozark snakebite treatment was to stick the wounded appendage in a bucket of kerosene. Other folks used a poultice of soap and salt (I presume the soap was for disinfecting and the salt to draw out the poisoned blood). You can also eat the boiled leaves from the snakeweed plant mentioned earlier. I've never been bitten by a snake of any kind, but I think if I do I'll just go to the emergency room. Of course, back when Randolph recorded these beliefs and customs, travel was much harder and slower, and the nearest doctor could be many miles away. People had to tend to themselves. It's good to be self-reliant, but as long as we can get to a hospital much quicker these days, I'm going there. And I still don't like snakes.
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“We need to find God, and he cannot be found in noise and restlessness. God is the friend of silence. See how nature — trees, flowers, grass — grows in silence; see the stars, the moon and the sun, how they move in silence... We need silence to be able to touch souls.” Mother Teresa
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PHOTO BY LARRY STRONG
August • September 2017 | 67
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