DECODE
DEDCODE magazine
July 2017
DECODE
Contents J ULY 2 01 7
.8.
About This Isuue
.10.
Gender and Fashion
.14.
The Beard Club
.20.
Sustainable Branding
.26.
DECODE: The Collection
.42.
Zephyr Handcrafted
9
ABOUT THIS ISSUE Identity is the focal point of this edition.
judgments. This may cause some people
Our identities are formed by our
to be hesitant in exposing themselves and
experiences, because of the personal
their beliefs openly, they may therefore
aspect of our individual circumstances;
compartmentalize these feelings. We
other people may not understand us.
understand these feelings and the
This may be the result of their own
Decode magazine is here to assist in
experiences causing them to form
such situations.
e m p a t h i z e b u t i t i s n ’t p o s s i b l e t o
Decode allows you to express yourself
completely relate to a perspective that
freely within a community of people
you haven’t experienced. Due to these
with the same artistic temperaments.
distinctly var ying personalities, our
It’s a platform allowing the young
identities become refracted. The problem
revolutionary Sri Lankans to be free to
arises, however, when your perspective
express themselves without criticism.
is too contrasting to the concepts laid
With new editions being published
down by society.
every two months focusing on different
JULY 2017
different opinions. Some may tr y to
issues, members can share their opinion Society is a major influence in Sri Lanka.
on the topic in concern, their personal
It tends to be ver y opinionated and
experiences and even their work.
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restrictive; there is no escape from it’s
GENDER AND FA S H I O N Fashion has long played with gender boundaries. This is especially important for queer people. For them it is a way of expressing their identity, feeling a part of community and enjoying their appearance. Fashion is primarily a form of self expression.
labels such as being popular or not accepted,
Each day we express ourselves through our
modest or brazen, masculine or feminine, etc.
hairstyles, clothing, make up, scent and even
These judgments have formed into categories
body language. By being very expressive in our
that are being formally catered to and with the
looks and behavior, we present to the world
increased development of a category, there is
an outlook of how we wish to be perceived
a subsequent increase in animosity towards
and understood by people. This expression
the stereotype. This is the main cause for
however, comes at a price as society is likely
ostracization, especially among transgender and
to judge, categorize and label people who stray
gender nonconforming people.
beyond the accepted norms. As judgments begin to form, people who dress to be individualistic are assigned into categories and
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JULY 2017
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Fashion is personal and how people wish to dress is dependent on their experiences and inbuilt into their personalities. However, there is a certain vulnerability as others may not relate and instead assume a completely different story founded on their own personal experiences. Humanity didn’t begin with separate aisles in a shopping mall for menswear and womenswear, this is a manifestation of society who has set preconceived notions of gendered clothing, hairstyle, perfume and cosmetics. Sri Lanka is a very culture based nation where society disproves of anything that goes beyond the boundaries of each race’s tradition and religious beliefs. This is not aided by the fact that none of the religions approve of gender share and equality. The result of this is a tiny population of nonconforming people and significantly larger portion of frustrated citizens. Gender neutral fashion is popularized on runway and media but only for a defined demography. The ideal qualities required to be gender neutral and pull it off are financial stability, living in the West and looking skinny. It is time we liberated ourselves and took the initiative to accept our bodies and dress and carry ourselves the way we want to. I propose we go back to using fashion as a form of self expression and not get bullied into uniform clothing. It’s time we get inspired and become inspirations ourselves.
11
THE BEARD CLUB
D: So talk to me about your brand EF: Well, I have been growing my beard for a long time but I never did anything to it apart from an occasional trim.
JULY 2017
WE had the fortune of talking with Eranda Fernando, the founder of Sri Lanka’s first beard product brand. Eranda is a self made entrepreneur with a background in management. He has a fantastic sense of style and an unusual outlook on life.
I know many of my friends who are also very proud of their beards. One day I came across an advertisement selling beard products online and I realized that there would be a market for it in Sri Lanka. I imported my first batch and ever since then I’ve been selling.
D: Are you taking any measures to expand The Beard Club? EF: I am. I was initially thinking of importing different products but that wasn’t financially feasible. I’m working on making my own sub brand called Keshara (the lions mane) to produce beard related products like beard combs and traveling packs and over time manybe my own line of beard
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oils.
“My mom once paid me to shave.” I f yo u a s k E r a n d a Fe r n a n d o a b o u t b e a rd c a re , b e prepared for a long chat. His beard routine starts off with a cleansing wash with his beard shampoo followed by a moisturing rinse with his beard conditioner. once dried, he rubs beards oil into his beard, his current favorite being the Grave Before Shave’s, Cigar Blend. This is followed by a nourishing application of beard balm and moustache wax to keep the handlebars up. This entire process is repeated twice a day.
D: What are the trials your company is facing?
D: What about beauty products?
EF: Well, since I am the only investor,
EF: Umm, personally I wouldn’t wear
finances are a bit tight. There I also the
make-up but I don’t have a problem
problems of culture because it’s not
with people wearing it. I confess that I
considered masculine to apply oils and
have done facials and wear face masks
other cosmetic products. What people
though. I do that for healthy skin.
don’t understand is that these products are for healthy beard growth. Also, the older generations, like my mother, keep dissuading men to grow beards.
D: Does your family support your bearded lifestyle? EF: My father is indifferent to it but my mom and grandmother don’t really
There’s a trend towards
approve. My mom once paid me to
t ra n s g e n d e r d re s s i n g a n d m a l e
shave. My extended family judges me
make-up. What are your views on
but I don’t really care I got to where I
gendered cosmetics?
am by myself so they don’t really have a
EF: (laughs) I have beard products to
say in my life.
D:
sell so I’m for it
(continues)
D: What is the most important social
If you like a particular look and it suits
problem in Sri Lanka that you would
you then you should dress that way.
like to address?
I’m not sure if this applies to work
EF: I would say a lack of Equality and
environments though.
Freedom. There are a lot of racial problems, there’s a belief that one set of people is better than the other when actually everyone is equal. Also, because
D: What are your main goals in life? EF: I want to achieve Nirvana.
of the pressures of society and having to live up to people’s expectation of yourself, there is a lack of freedom to be yourself.
D: You’re quite a religious person, aren’t you? EF: I believe in the ideals of Buddhism. Not the cultural aspects which are
D: You have a very keen sense of style.
mostly made up by people but the core
Where do you generally buy your
truth which is the concept of Samsara.
clothes? EF: I don’t have a standard place. I buy clothes if I come across something cool. I’m very particular about things like fit and fabrics and I tend to style them in
D: For such a spiritual person, some would say that a beard brand is quite a materialistic job. Why do you work?
unusual ways. I tend to exchange shirts
EF: (Laughs) Well, I work because
with my girlfriend on occasion; she
without it I cannot survive, right? I’m
often wears men’s shirts.
pursuing my beard brand because that interests me. I do all these seemingly materialistic jobs but that doesn’t mean
D: What are your views on gender
I don’t believe in the real truth. I am
dressing?
seeking the answer to life, I feel that I
EF: I don’t have views on gender
get closer every day.
dressing. I believe in personal style.
22
Sustainable branding We met up with Fashion Graphics Designer, Lithma Ekanayaka to discuss her new business venture into sustainable fashion branding. Lithma recently launched her own fashion brand, Kindred in conjunction with an organic cosmetics line. D: Tell me about what you do. LE: In a nutshell, I design ethical branding for fashion.
JULY 2017
I design swing tags, carrier bags,
D: That sounds like a very specialized field. How did you get into it? LE: Umm, I studies fashion design and marketing for my BA and the most exciting part of the course for me were the branding projects. I knew that I wanted to do branding and I really love fashion and keeping up with trends so I decided to specialize in it.
D: This is quite a new concept in Sri Lanka right? Do you feel that there is a wide market for fashion graphics? LE: There’s actually a wider market for fashion branding than you would assume because there are very few people specializing in this field in Sri Lanka. Also the mainstream graphic designers are not as fashion savvy and can’t really get through to the identity of the fashion brand. This is what makes my work so special.
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(continues)
D: What’s the story behind the sustainability element
Kindred?
to your branding?
LE: Wow. There’s a lot to say. It was inspired by
LE: I have always been very conscious of the
Sri Lankan Ayurveda and the ancient Sri Lankan
environment and being sustainable. It has been a
medical system. It’s a fashion collection that
big part of my life, I am even vegan. I realized that
reconnects you to your Lankan roots in an
most of the tags and bags that I produce will be
eclectic style. I also developed an organic avurveda
discarded at some point and I decided I needed to
cosmetics range produced with natural Sri Lankan
do something about it. I then did some research
herbs.
and realized that we have so many natural and organic materials in Sri Lanka so I decided to be creative and I launched my fist sustainable branding
D: What were the branding elements that you pro-
collection for ‘Kindred’. It was really successful
duced for this?
and extra satisfying.
LE: I made swing tags out of recycled paper. I also produced accessories like printed scarves from up-cycled fabric and bags with recycled leather.
D: That’s great. Tell me, what inspired the brand
(continues)
I asked Lithma what the meaning behind your slogan ‘Jeewana Ratawa’ meant “‘Jeewana Ratawa’ means lifetyle in Sinhalese”, she said. “I find that in this modern age where consumerism has taken over culture people forget the basic blessings of life. Kindred is about reconnecting people back to their roots.”
“I realized that most of the tags and bags that I produce will be discarded at some point and I decided I needed to do something about it.”
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Swing tag designs done for DECODE
D: You did the branding for DECODE as well,
Kurunegala. I thought this was great
can you talk me through the thought process
because it was locally produced, recycled
behind these designs?
paper and it also had a really cool, rough
LE: Well, I got the DECODE logo and I was
tecture. The issue was that it couldn’t be
thinking about the project for a while. I
printed on, so I decided to use laser cutting
was inspired by shape because that’s what I
and overlay with transparent paper to give
found as being the most sustainable feature
more depth.
about the brand. This collection is inspired by Buddhist monk robes and the silhouette is quite oversized, free and flowing. That is why I decided to have an oversized swing
D: Are there more branding items being looked into for Decode?
tag. I wanted to make the design quite
LE: I’m currently working on developing bags
minimalistic so that it wouldn’t take away
for the garments. I’ve been brainstorming a
from the garment which is the main focus.
method to pack garments in a bag without causing a waste of material and I think I’ve found an answer. The most efficient way is
D: The paper was an interesting texture. What
to manufacture a bag with an alternative
was the material you used?
use such as a handbag or purse that could
LE: So I came accross this paper shop in
be worn with the garment. Since the
Pettah. They had vegetable pulp paper
garments are genderless and theres an
that was hand made at a workshop in
increasing trend for man-purses, I beleive this could be a great solution.
22 JULY 2017 DECODE
de c od e the collection
decode be yourself
44
Zephyr Handcrafted Documentary of a Sunday brunch with Yuvini Fernando. We discussed, in length about her brand, Zephyr Handcrafted and the trials of being a young, female designer in Sri Lanka.
YF: I used to do illustrations and upload
D: I get strong beach vibes when I look
them on my personal instagram page,
through your instagram page. What is
and then a couple of my friends told me
Zephyr’s connection with the beach?
that they would sell and they advised
YF: I don’t know exactly, I really love
me to start up my own brand. So then
the colour blue and I want things done
I actually started selling my work on
a certain way and I feel uncomfortable
instagram and it was good.
when there are too many colours used.
The name Zephyr is from the brand
There’s this feeling of peacefulness, I just
Red Hot Chili Peppers. I was just
like that lifestyle of being by the beach. I
brainstorming names oneday and this
don’t really surf but I would love to surf
song was just playing in the background
and I actually would if my mom let me.
so I was just like, ‘hey, why not use this?’.
When I was small we used to always go
JULY 2017
D: How did your brand begin?
to the beach with my dad, like twice a week or so and he used to let us swim in the beach. It’s just the feeling I get and
(continues)
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I want my work to represent this feeling.
D: What inspires your designs? YF: (laughs) This has so many things to do with the beach. I started off drawing sea creatures like starfish and octopus. I like to put them together because I normally draw a subject and then put a Mandela behind it. I used to do a lot of Mandela’s but I’ve stopped. I get inspired by the different things I see when I go to the beach, and sometimes it’s just a feeling I have. I have done some deigns with rock bands, I love classic rock. Music is a big inspiration; I’ve even got tattoos based on my favorite bands. I also get inspired from the internet; there are so many things to see. I love to take elements from different pictures and combine them. I just have a strong personal style with my illustrations and I like to see how far I can go with it.
(continues)
D: Are you conscious about sustainability in your work? YF: Many people have asked me this before. Well, umm… can you specify?
D: Zephyr is all about being-hand made and hand-crafted so are you conscious about the materials you use? YF: Not really. However, I use this certain kind of paper called Favini paper which is a recycled paper. It’s an Italian paper and it’s the paper I use most often. For the cover I use like a normal Matt Card paper. The hand stitching was thought in college when we hand stitching class on book binding and ever since then I really loved it. My favorite is the Japanese stitch binding that’s what I use on most of my books. This isn’t really sustainable but the new collection I’m working on is slightly more environmentally conscious than my previous work. I’m really bothered by the general lack of respect to the beached in Sri Lanka. If you walk on the beach now you will see a whole lot of garbage. This ruins the beach and harms the animals. It’s really sad.
(continues)
“There’s this feeling of peacefulness, I just like that lifestyle of being by the beach. It’s just the feeling I get and I want my work to represent this feeling.”
D: The branding is really interesting. What’s the story behind it? YF: The mermaid. It was actually a project we had to do on personal branding. I was actually thinking of the Zephyr brand when I was doing this project because once I graduate I really want to open up a Zephyr store and establish it down south. I looked into the brand values and personality and I came up with the ideas of being free-spirited, adventurous, passionate and emotional. Mermaids
am now trying to use more colours. I do these simple line drawings and dot work with just a bit of water colour so it’s mostly black ink and water colour. The main thing is that I don’t want these books to look ordinary. Many people make books but they do like spiral binding or something but this hand-stitched look that I have is very different from everything else. I think that’s the uniqueness of Zephyr.
symbolize these values. They are considered independent, they can’t be kept in one place they like to explore and go around and I relate to that so I started illustrating a whole lot of mermaids. This was actually my second logo; my first was just a Mandela with my type.
D: What social issues do you face with Zephyr? YF: There was this one piece that I did. You know how Sri Lankans tend to be really fanatic about their religions right? So there was this one illustration that this guy wanted and it was
D: In your opinion, what makes Zephyr unique? YF: I like things mainly done by hand. Personalized pieces. Even for my projects I usually do things that are very tactile and at the end I refine it up digitally. I really like getting messy with the work and using my hands, the only thing is that when you work manually you can’t mess it up. It’s like, when you’re conscious about what you’re doing you tend to make more mistakes but when you just have fun with it, it usually
a Buddah. It was really cool, he had these really trippy sunglasses and everything. But then my family protested and they were like, ‘no! you are not selling that.’ So I guess in some way when I draw stuff I have to be conscious because lot of people find that offensive. That would be one instance. I have a few boobies in my illustrations but so far nobody had protested against it, it’s just the cultural problems. I think people value religious symbols too much.
ends up looking really cool.It’s mainly inspired by water and that’s why I use a lot of blue. I
(continues)
D: What about the cultural impact on your personal lifestyle? Doesn’t the lack of freedom bother you? YF: I don’t have any freedom because of my mom. I don’t like that; it’s a pain in the ass. Girls can’t do what guys go and the whole principal is wrong. I don’t support that.
D: How do you suggest young people get out of this situation and claim their right for freedom? Do you think they can? YF: I think we can. I’m still freaking about how I should get out of being under my mom’s control. What I tell her is that I’m 20 years old and I should have some freedom. Even if she doesn’t give it to me, I will somehow take it because I’m not happy with staying inside all the time. So I will just go out and one day she will get fed up of it and she will stop lecturing me.