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ALL CHECKED OUT DENIM-ME CRAZY VOLUME UP SLIDE ON BY LET'S GET WAISTED OFFICE LAZE A TRENCHY TURN LACE IT UP LOUD AND CLEAR COLD SHOULDER
The gingham pattern is defining all garments this Spring 2017. Whether it be blown out or minuscule, in garments or trims, this classic print was seen in many Ready-to-Wear and Resort collections. Designer houses; such as Mother of Pearl and Blumarine, decided to showcase the classic black and white design, while others, like House of Holland and Peter Pilotto, experimented with different color application. While many opted to keep the size of the pattern small and traditional, some designers like Antonio Marras chose to enlarge it. The trend quickly caught the eye of forecasters and was explored more in websites such as WGSN. Soon enough, retailers; such as Zara, Topshop, Banana Republic, and H&M; added gingham pants, blouses, dresses, coats, and skirts to their merchandise.
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KEY ELEMENTS + Mainly colored Black & White + Worn in all garments or as accent pieces + Styled for a casual or work look + Variety in print size
The pattern has been making appearances in the streets during the latest Fashion Week, shows, and amongst bloggers. As seen in the London Fashion Week attendees (showcased above), the gingham pattern was welcomed in its classic black and white. Garments were regularly styled with denim or solid neutral colors to balance the already busy print. 4
Gingham has proven to be a bold and exciting pattern on and off the runway. The trend has been welcomed by many for its youthfulness and head-turning contrast. For this very reason, the market might over exhaust the pattern which might diminish the demand for gingham and ending the trend after a season or two. 5
The denim fixation is continually on the rise this
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Spring 2017. The trend for denim has been growing season through season, as seen 69's A/W 2016 (featured left), and has made its way to the current trend lists. Designers such as Hiroko Koshino, Marques ' Almeida, and Alexander Wang have opted to showcase the roughness and distressed qualities of the fabric in their collections. Others like Carolina Herrera, Burberry, Steven Alan, and Mother of Pearl decided to place smoother denim fabrics to compliment their tailored and elegant designs. Retailers, such as Zara, Banana Republic, and Topshop, have been noticing the attention the once basic fabric has been getting. They have decided to expand their merchandise with reinventing the classic jean by adding distressed fringes or contrasting patches. The denim demand has broaden passed simple pants; jackets, shirts, dresses and even shoes have reached the market.
KEY ELEMENTS + Distressed fringe end + Patchwork in different tones + Full denim outfits + Seen in street and elegant designs + Worn in all garment pieces
With its classic quality and versatility, it is no surprise the denim trend was quick to hit the streets. The straight flair ankle jean with distressed fringe seems to be the popular choice; usually paired with heeled shoes or boots to contrast its casualness. The classic jean jacket was brought back but many opted for an oversized look. Keeping denim outfits monochromatic in color and fabric was also spotted within the attendees of the latest fashion shows (featured above).
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The indigo colored fabric has always been a classic in people wardrobes but the current runways seem to have revitalized it. People have come to rediscover denim's versatility outside of its pre-existing role. Wearing denim became unique again. For this reason, it is hard to see the trend fade away after its uproar demand. While its presence in the runway might decrease, the affect the trend had in the public is indicative of its long-lasting effect.
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The classic button-down shirt is seeing new heights with its latest enhancement. In an effort to reinvent the traditional garment, adding volume to sleeves has reemerged as a trend. A.W.A.K.E., Alexander Wang, and Marques ' Almeida are just a few of the designer houses that have showcased these overblown sleeves in cropped shirts, button-downs, and jackets. The amount of volume may vary but the material of choice seems to be mostly cotton for its crispness and ability to hold its shape. The voluminous addition supplements the classic button-down shirt with a modernized leg-of-mutton sleeve. The trend has found its way to through retail, with Zara being the lead distributor. 9
KEY ELEMENTS + Leg-of-Mutton sleeve + Various heights of volume + In cotton button-down shirts + Colors & Patterns: white, blue,
grids, pinstripe
The large sleeves have been seen on the streets of the recent fashion shows (featured above) and on everyday wear. The trend is easily adaptable for all occasion, whether it be casual or elegant. The colors of the shirts seem to stay within the traditional white and shades of blue with the occasional grid or pinstripe pattern. The garments are oversized and personally styled to exhibit it. For this reason, people exalt the volume of the sleeves by pairing them with large skirts or flared pants. 10
The leg-of-mutton sleeve has been making its mark in fashion since the 1820s. It has reemerged and been reinvented in the 1890s, 1950s, and the 1990s with its biggest exponent being Princess Diana. The trend has made it to the modern world as seen on the runways and street style. The trend's presence throughout centuries indicates that while the voluminous sleeves might decrease by the next season, it is bound to return in a near future.
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The slide-on slippers most commonly known as mules continue to be on trend this Spring 2017. The popularity of the mule has reemerged throughout history starting from its beginning in ancient civilizations and making its way to the 1950s with Marilyn Monroe leading the trend. This season designers have taken a liking to the shoe and have looked for ways to making the unique once more. Gucci has been its biggest promoter by adding embroidered designs and even fur to them. Other brands, like Charlotte Olympia, The Row, and Acne Studios, have opted to maintain a more classic approach. The mules have been featured as flats or with heels, and with a closed front or a peeped-toe. AmĂŠlie Pichard has also experimented with the mules by adding gold glitter (featured right), fur, and even adding flowers inside the heels. Retailers; such as Zara, H&M, and Nordstrom have noticed the increasing popularity for mules and have added them to their merchandise immediately. 12
KEY ELEMENTS + Flats or small heels + Plain colors, metallic, textures + Closed or peeped-toe + Casual look The mules have made their appearance in the street style of the latest Fashion Weeks and in blog posts. It is seen styles with jeans, skirts, and mainly casual outfits. The mules seem to be an easy shoe to complement any outfit. It is usually seen in plain colors and metallics, but some also incorporate texture to add an element of uniqueness. Many have also added bows or ankle bandanas to complement the shoes.
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With the rise of their presence in local retail shops, the mules have become more accessible to the public. Yet this might lower their popularity since it takes away from their luxury. The same pattern can be seen in the 18th century, where the mules fell from grace when prostitutes began wearing them. While this is more due to the vast division of classes of the period, it seems to suggest that once an item is available to all, it weakens its exclusivity. Even with the mules continuing to be on trend, a decrease in its appearance in the runways from its introduction in 2016, is apparent.
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One trend that is making its first mark this season is the corseted waist. The revival of the corset began this Spring 2017 when some brands or designers sought to make the antiquated garment a modern accessory. MISBHV debuted their first womenswear collection with some corset belt details and others like Brock Collection, Public School, Monse, and Isabel Marant also featured the pinched waist look throughout their designs. It was also an essential detail of the Rihanna and Puma collaboration, Fenty x Puma. The corset belts look more modern than its original counterpart, with the inclusion of metal details and modern materials like denim and leather. While it is usually showcased as an accessory, some designs include the corset as part of the garment whether it be in a shirt, skirt, or pants. Retailers, like Zara and ASOS, have also created corset accessories and shirts to add to their merchandise as the trend continues to rise. 15
KEY ELEMENTS + Mainly neutral colors + Worn over dresses or shirts + Laced or buckled + Loosely or slightly tightened
The corset belt has hit the streets with recent social media icons like Kim Kardashian being a huge ambassador for the style. The street style looks of the recent fashion shows that flaunt the corset have styled it with basic garments and silhouettes. The corset belts have been seen loose or tightened yet never to the same level as the ladies of the past. The fastening of the belts varies from a more classical lace to the more contemporary buckle. 16
Spring 2017 seems to be the starting point of this trend. While some share concern over the rise of the corset as they fear it might revert back to a torturous fashion, the way the trend is being styled is loosely and depends on the individual preferences. As seen in the Fall 2017 collections, the trend is expected to continue its presence onto the next season.
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The suit is making its way through womenswear trends this Spring 2017 but with an extra element of volume. The oversized suit has come to challenge the classic fitted suit. Throughout the runways, designer houses such as CĂŠline and Vetements have all expand the suit's proportions allowing them to effortlessly fall on a woman's figure. Others, like Balenciaga, have added the oversized look by creating more tailored suits with added length and wider sleeves. The oversize suit communicates a level of comfort by creating a more relaxed look. The trend is not exclusively reserved for the office environment, in fact, most of the time it is used as a statement piece in casual wear. While most retailers have remained consistent in offering the classic tailored suit, others; such as Zara, have taken a risk in offering suits with larger proportions along18
side the classic pieces.
KEY ELEMENTS + Paired with button-up shirt, hoodie, etc + Blazer worn with wide, baddy or straight
trousers + Neutrals (beige, grey) or warm colors (yellow, orange)
The oversize suit has been seen worn by many of the latest Fashion Week attendees. The colors of the suits worn were mostly neturals like beige and gray, as well as the classic checked and pinstriped patterns. The trousers of the the suits seem to be wide palazzos, straight legged, or baggy. Some have kept the styling more classic with a button-up shirt; others have experimented by adding a hoodie underneath which contributes to the comfortness the oversize suits exude.
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Many have added the oversize suit to their closets and will continue to do so. While most customers that look for suits prefer a more fitted style which they deem as more professional, the Fall collections have continued the oversize trend. Yet it is correct to assume that the trend seems to be more practical outside the office space, where the look is more casual and creatively styled.
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The classic trench coat is back on the scene this Spring 2017 with a few trendy alterations. Other trends such as the ruffles, the gingham, embroidery, and oversize sleeves, seem to be applied to the classic garment bringing it to a new era. Apart from Burberry, whose stable piece is the trench coat, designer houses such as Vetements and Balenciaga have showcased the garment in their Spring 2017 collections, adding an oversize look or wide shoulders to subtly reinvent it. Preen by Thornton Bregazzi (featured left) opted to add some trending ruffles to the trench in their Resort 2017 collection. It seems clear that implementing other current trends in the garment design caused the trench coat trend to reemerge. The garment has made its way to retailers such as Zara and Banana Republic who seem to be merchandising the garment at a slightly higher price point. 21
KEY ELEMENTS + Oversize styling + Ruffle details or embroidery designs + Ankle length or mid-calf length + Hues of beige and khaki
The trench coat has always existed in the closets of many, but this season many have taken the classic garment and brought it to the streets. The color of the trench has remained between the classic hues of beige and khaki. Many have decided to make the trench the staple piece in their outfits, while others use it as a complementary piece. 22
The trench coat has thrived for centuries and will continue to do so since its classic design offers comfort and versatility to all who wear it. Yet the trend for it as more than a closet essential seems to be growing. It has even made its way to the red carpet with Priyanka Chopra wearing a Ralph Lauren trench dress to the 2017 MET Gala. While some report that the trench trend will die down, the coat will continue to be a classic wardrobe piece.
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Large laces have gained popularity this Spring 2017 with the
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inclusion of them in unexpected areas of garments. The material varies from design but mainly rough roping or thick cotton is used to add unsuspecting details in design pieces. Designer houses, like ChloĂŠ and Marissa Webb, have been more subtle on the Spring and Resort runways, opting to feature laces in the front of the garment and in smaller size. It is in street style were the public has been experimenting with size and placement of such details after the first introduction to this trend last season. The consumers have really been the promoters of the large lace trend. Retailers have sprung to the opportunity on capitalizing the trend by marketing skirts, jackets, dresses and shirts that include the trend. This lace detail can be mainly found on one side of a skirt, the back of a shirt, the front of a dress, down the front of a jacket or on the side of it. It is interesting to note how the stores that are mainly merchandising the trend have a younger starting audience of 18-30 year-olds, such as Missguided and Asos, which helps analyze how the trend is perceived by the public.
KEY ELEMENTS
+ Mainly in oversize detail + On the side of garments + Accent detail on classic silhuettes + Casual style + Distributed vertically
alongside a garment
The lace detail trend has been seen in the streets styled in different ways but mainly the placement of choice seems to be on the side of a tight skirt. Although it is mostly seen being paired with cotton-like shirts, the overall style is deemed more casual. The lace detail gives a playful and offbeat sense of style that complements the more classic style of the shirts or garments. For such, reason the lace trend has been more overtly seen within the young adult social group. 25
The lace trend has been seen throughout the Spring season in more commercial garments. Yet it seems to be slowly coming to an end with fewer products being developed by retailers and a decrease on the runway. While many consumers will continue to showcase the lace trend, fewer garments will become commercially available to them.
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The latest change in the US administration has generated an outcry from the worldwide public and with no surprise has made its way through the business world. Designers have been able to express their discontent over the recent Administration and promote positive ideals in their collections. Christian Dior in the Spring 2017 runway, showcased a simple white tee which displayed in a minimal font "We should all be Feminists." Chakshyn opted to present various t-shirts with statements such as " No Seasons Anymore" and "No Gender Anymore." Jonathan Simkhai has also taken a stance with the launch of the "Feminist AF" tee (featured left) currently sold online. The simplicity of a font face on a t-shirt has led many online retailers such as ASOS and Topshop to create similar designs and statements. This trend goes beyond aesthetic goals; it is part of the worldwide demand for equal right and a stance against government oppression. 27
KEY ELEMENTS
+ Simple font face + Usually black & white + Social & political themes + Front of tees
The streets have become the main stage where such statements are exhibited. Usually, the phrases are seen on the front of a simple black or white tee, but others have stamped their message on the back of jackets. The tees are then styled with skirts, suits, shorts and jackets depending on the individual's personal style. The public has taken this opportunity to express their political and social discontent and opinions. The themes of these tees regularly include; feminism, love, equal rights, and immigration. 28
With the continuous political upheaval and decisions, it is highly unlikely to see this trend disappear. The Spring season merely served as an introduction to the trend. Political and social statements have already taken over the Fall 2017 runways. Public School featured an array of garments with "Make America New York," Christian Siriano designed a t-shirt with "People are People," and Prabal Gurung touched on immigration (featured left) and feminism. It is easy to foresee these political statements beyond the current season.
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The off-shoulder jackets are changing the way of styling for many this Spring 2017. While jackets remain the same, their styling has taken a new turn this season with many letting them effortlessly fall off their shoulders. The trend is not limited to jackets; many have also styled their button-up shirts in a similar matter. The styling trend has been seen on the runway with designers such as Off-White and Moohong creating bulky jacket pieces that go over other garments for their Spring 2017 collection. Another approach can be seen with designer Esteban Cortazar who decided to use a thinner material for their jacket, making it look more like a shirt that outerwear. While retailers continue merchandising regular jackets, many have opted showcase these garments following this trend. The off-shoulder hanging jacket trend can be seen throughout the visual displays of stores like H&M and Zara. 30
KEY ELEMENTS
+ Bulky jackets or button-up shirt + Display one shoulder or both + Over another garment or by itself + Casual style
The trend has been rapidly accepted by the public and is currently seen throughout street style photography. The innovative styling of the jackets or shirts and the nonchalant aura that it expels has attracted many to follow the trend. Most have opted to use the trend in their daily casual wear as opposed to a more glamorous occasion where this styling would be more predictable. While most use layering to exhibit the trend, others style only their shirts transforming them into off-shoulder garments.
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The off-shoulder styling trend has been more present in the street style than in the runways. For such reason, it can be expected to continue on even if the runways might not be showcasing it as often. The laid-back look that the off-shoulder styling displays has attracted the public. The trend has brought a new way of styling that has many excited to try on their own.
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