AMOR :: Argentina LGBT

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INTRODUCTION

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EXPRESSIONS AND EMOTIONS 56

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TRADITION AND AVANT-GARDE

FREE YOUR ENERGY

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EQUAL MARRIAGE

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FULFILLED WHIMS 42 16.

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MUST-SEE ARGENTINA

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UNIQUE PLEASURES 12.

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FIND YOUR SPACE

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GENDER IDENTITY

PHOTO CREDITS

+ INFORMATION

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MAP


To discover and experience Argentina can be a passionate challenge. Its vast geography keeps countless experiences for the travelers, who will not take long to notice intense and remarkable contrasts. Welcome to a country scattered with rainforests, snowed mountains, thousands of kilometers of beaches and roads which start and end among valleys and ravines. Matching the diversity of natural sceneries, the

Argentina is also a destination for adventurers who

country also dazzles with its huge human diversity.

are marveled at the monumental IguazĂş Falls or

The significant influence of European immigration

impressed by the magnificent Andes and its

in 19th and 20th centuries is combined with old

highest peak located in Argentina.

traditions and this fusion has been expressed in a myriad of cultural products.

In this country of varied landscapes and pleasant changing weather, millions of people live

This legacy goes beyond the noisy and eclectic

and dream with an open and friendly attitude.

Buenos Aires, with a definite cosmopolitan vibe to the rhythm of tango.

Aware of the richness and contrasts that define its essence, Argentina is becoming more and more an

INTRODUCTION 12

A hypothetical look at Argentina confirms this idea

open-doors community which respects sexual

and foresees the big number of potential experien-

diversity confirms the value of individual freedom

ces. The charming Patagonia offers its magical

and invites men and women from all over the world

setting of snow, woods and glaciers. Or the warm

to fully experience its multiple attractions.

North region and its towns of colonial architecture surrounded by colorful hills.

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SECTION #01: TRADITION AND AVANT-GARDE

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TRADITION

AND AVANT-GARDE

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Argentina has a rich artistic tradition which proudly keeps and at the same time is always updated with Latin American and International cutting-edge trends. 32.

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SECTION #01: TRADITION AND AVANT-GARDE

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undreds of museums and art galleries,

design items. The cinema is open from Thursdays

particularly in Buenos Aires account for

to Sundays.

a Rich scene in which the most classical

works live together with innovative performances.

Beyond the traditional itineraries, art is also a night option in Buenos Aires. Every month “Gallery

The National Museum of Fine Arts

Nights” is held, an event that gathers the best art

Because of the volume and quality of its collec-

galleries in the city. The proposal includes more

tions, The National Museum of Fine Arts (MNBA)

than a hundred exhibition rooms in Palermo, Retiro

is a good starting point to look into the art scene

and Recoleta areas. It is ideal for those who are

of our country. Located in Recoleta area (Buenos

willing to get in touch with the local art market or

Aires), it hosts the largest collection or 20th Cen-

simply fulfill an old whim.

tury Argentine art and a Pre-Columbian room recently opened. Also, the ground floor –about 2000 square meters- is entirely devoted to the best of international art displaying works even from Medieval Times. Spanish and English audio guides are available.

Latin American Art Museum Another

art

space

highly

recommended

Art is also a night option in Buenos Aires. Every month “Gallery Nights” is held.

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Córdoba and Rosario in

f we leave the Argentine capital city, the art scene

Argentina’s capital city is the Latin American Art

develops its own style in cities such as Córdoba

Museum (popularly known as MALBA). Although

and Rosario (second and third most important ci-

funded 11 years ago, it has become and undenia-

ties in our country).

ble landmark for the region’s art trends. Here the names of Xul Solar, Frida Kahlo and Antonio Berni

In the first case, the newest offer in art is Eva Pe-

are next to the newest trends, often embodied in

rón Museum, located in a centenary palace of

non traditional formats such as installations and

remarkable French influence. It displays a hetero-

“happenings”. It also has an important film library

geneous but asserted collection; the most outstan-

and a well furbished store selling catalogues and

ding works are the drawings by Carlos Alonso and

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SECTION #01: TRADITION AND AVANT-GARDE its sculptures and photographs. Other significant art spaces are the Spain-Córdoba Cultural Centre and Caraffa Museum, both located downtown.

JESUIT RESIDENCES

In Rosario, Castagnino Museum and MACRO to-

These Jesuit residences and farm complex, known as

gether are complementary in a precise manner to

“Estancias Jesuíticas” were built between 1616 and

synthesize the classical and new national art. The

1725 by Jesuit missionaries and they were funded to

first displays a vast collection of 3000 works while

provide financial support to their educational work in

the second, much more recent, is focused on the

the region.

trends imposed by the new generations of artists.

They are: Estancia Jesuítica Caroya (1616), Estancia Jesuítica Jesús María(1618), Estancia Jesuítica Santa

MACRO is also the perfect place to get a pano-

Catalina (1622), Estancia Jesuítica Alta Gracia (1643),

ramic view of the city. Its curious building structu-

Estancia Jesuítica La Candelaria (1683) y Estancia

re –some old grain silos recycled in 2004- has ten

Jesuítica San Ignacio (1725). This last, Estancia San

floors tall and makes a sort of window to Paraná

Ignacio, no longer exists and it was originally located

River, which is the border with Entre Rios, another

in Calamuchita region. They were named a World He-

Argentine province. ·

ritage Site in 2000 by UNESCO.

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SECTION #02: FIND YOUR SPACE

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FIND

YOUR SPACE What do you want to see first through your bedroom windows when you wake up? Do you love calm and intimacy? Or do you prefer the rhythm of big hotels? Do you appreciate design and details? 51.

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our answers to these questions will help

with exclusive wines produced in a vineyard next

you make up your mind and do what you to

to the hotel.

do during your time in Argentina. You don’t

NATIONAL PARKS

Farmhouses

have to worry about the rest; a solid and varied hotels offer will make possible the trip of your dreams.

Each Argentine region has protected areas that preser-

Comfort and tradition are also combined in Ar-

Hotels in Buenos Aires

ve samples of the amazing biodiversity of the country.

gentine “estancias” which are opened to visitors.

There are 34 National Parks, three of which have been

Those who are looking for the heart of Argentine

declared World Heritage Site by UNESCO, these ones

countryside and its countless traditions can spend

are: Iguazú Falls (Misiones Province), Talampaya Can-

one or more days in these old farm main houses

yon (La Rioja Province) and National Park “Los Glacia-

called “cascos de estancia”.

If you land in Buenos Aires, you can choose among hundreds of high quality establishments, including more than 5 star hotels. Beyond the well-known international chains, there is a big and varied offer of boutique hotels, mainly located in Palermo,

res” (“The Glaciers) (Santa Cruz Province). These magnificent palaces from early 20th century

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These small Hotels combine carefully designed rooms with first class services. Located in keys area of the city, they are also the perfect starting point for those willing to walk around Buenos Aires and discover it through their own eyes.

Otero regions in Argentina

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In other Argentine regions, the pleasure of a nice accommodation matches the charm of its surroundings. Thus, for example, the so called “wine ho-

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tels” offer package tours that include wine tasting, cooking classes and golf practice. The most emblematic ones are located in Mendoza and Salta. It is not unusual to surprise their guests

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IGUAZÚ FALLS WONDER OF NATURE

QUEBRADA DE HUMAHUACA WORLD HERITAGE SITE

Wonder of Nature:

Quebrada de Humahuaca, a narrow mountain valley or ravine located in the province of Jujuy in northwest Argentina, was listed a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2 July, 2003.

On November 11 of 2011, Iguazú Falls was announced as one of the seven winners of the New Seven Wonders of Nature by the

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New Seven Wonders of the World Foundation after a competition in which more than TERMAL TOURISM

1000 million people from all over the World voted 400 tourist destinations in more than

Among the most visited thermal baths by LGBT

200 countries.

tourists are: Termas de Reyes (Jujuy), El Cha-

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llao, Los Molles y Cacheuta (Mendoza), Chajarí, Colón, Concordia, Federación, Gualeguaychú, La Paz, María Grande, San José y Villa Elisa (Entre Rios), Termas de Río Hondo (Santiago del Estero), Complejo Termal Copahue, Termas de Domuyo y Termas de Lahuenco (Neuquén). 73.

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still stand proudly with their impressive facades. There are interesting options in the vicinity of Buenos Aires city, such as Luján, Lobos, Navarro, San Antonio de Areco and Capilla del Señor, among 71.

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others. In every province as well you can visit these farmhouses surrounded by the local landscape.

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UNIQUE 78.

PLEASURES

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At any point of your travel plan around Argentina, it will not be difficult to find surprising and delicious dishes. 79.

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ach region, according to its natural resources and the ups and downs of its

Northern region You can fully enjoy the identity of Northern Argen-

history has forged its own gastronomic

tina cooking trying yellow corn and non traditional

profile. Nevertheless, everywhere European im-

meat such as llama, hare, and partridge. The re-

migration and native peoples’ traditions have left

cipes often include a good dose of spices. Some

track and created very interesting fusions.

drinks such as “chicha” (purple corn liquor) are a

Patagonia

legacy of the Incas era. In the areas close to Bolivia, it is customary to drink coca tea, an infusion that

Particularly the mountains region is a real paradi-

helps to prevent or reduce the physical symptoms

se for those who love smoked river fish (especia-

caused by altitude and the weather.

lly trout and salmon) and gourmet dishes based on lamb meat, and also deer and wild roar. The kitchen is also nourished by the dense and fertile woods to prepare exquisite dishes with wild mushrooms or berries such as blackcurrant, blueberry and raspberry. All over the region lamb meat is much appreciated and it is always present in restaurants and hotel

You can fully enjoy the identity of Northern Argentina cooking trying yellow corn.

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Litoral (Northeast region) In the Litoral region it is impossible to ignore the

menus. It is grilled and seasoned with strong herbs

most traditional dishes whose main ingredient is

and usually served with caramelized vegetables or

fish. The typical species in the region are: Dorado,

sweet and sour preparations.

Surubí and Pacú.

Cuyo and Córdoba

Predominant dishes

In Cuyo region and in Córdoba, young goat meat

Beyond these specialties, throughout the country

is much appreciated and cooked according to the

you can find some predominant dishes in the Ar-

countryside traditions. There is a noble variety of

gentines table. It is highly recommended to try “em-

fruits and it is mandatory to taste the local wines,

panadas”, a wheat flour pastry stuffed with beef,

above all in Mendoza and San Juan provinces.

cheese, vegetables and other variants as well. The

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SECTION #03: UNIQUE PLEASURES stuffing recipe varies from province to province and

or soft drinks with it. Some of the most traditional

Beyond keeping alive local gastronomic traditions,

it may include onions, olives, red pepper or raisins.

“pizzerías” (pizza restaurants) are located in La Boca

Buenos Aires offers a true wide variety of options

area or along Corrientes Avenue in Downtown area.

for lunch and dinner. Its more than 5000 restau-

Another big Argentine passion is “asado” (grilled beef or barbecue) and it can be enjoyed in restaurants (called “parrillas”) all over the country.

Buenos Aires Another delicious tradition always present in the

rants reflect an incredible mixture of traditions from

Buenos Aires offers a true wide variety of options for lunch and dinner.

all over the World. In the city you can taste, among others, Armenian, Chinese, Greek, Peruvian, Galician, Jewish, German, Vietnamese or Japanese dishes.

capital city of Argentina is pizza, a heritage from Italian immigrants who arrived to the country in late

Along this loud nightlife street, you can always see

Wines Routes

19th century. This dish is almost a ritual for “porte-

the theatre spectators invade “pizzerías” after the

The quality and sophistication of Argentine wines

ños” (Buenos Aires locals) who usually drink beer

shows in the many theatres nearby.

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magazine Wine Spectator- can be valued from its origins going around the regions in which it is produced. On this route, Mendoza province is the most important spot. Considered one of the big wine capitals in the World – among Bordeaux, Napa Valley

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and Florence- it sands out due to its superb Mal-

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bec although it is surprising the excellent adaptation of other varietals. Scattered over imposing mountains and beautiful valleys, more than a thousand vineyards work every year not only to supply the local market but

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also to satisfy the increasing international demand. It offers excellent options for visitors interested in

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SECTION #03: UNIQUE PLEASURES wine. You can visit vineyards, wineries and have access to splendid wine tasting. The wine routes also go through the neighbor province, San Juan, which impresses the visitor with its notable Syrah varietal. To the north, in the Cal102.

chaquíes Valleys (Salta) it is a must to visit Cafayate, emblematic wine spot famous for its altitude vineyards (more than 2000 meters above sea level) and the singular flavor of Torrontés grapes. Because of its unique fragrance and the sublime nature that makes them possible, Argentine wines are a not to be missed sensory chapter in the experience of discovering Argentina. ·

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Souvenirs from Argentina? A unique little object whose value only you or your partner know? Worlwide known trademarks or firms? Argentina is very convenient at shopping time and it generously satisfies a wide range of tastes. 109.

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n the huge Buenos Aires city, finding interesting items at reasonable prices can become a funny experience. Usually certain Shopping areas are

specialized in different products. Thus Corrientes Avenue and Santa Fe Avenue are highly recommended to purchase books and discs.

Finding interesting items at reasonable prices can become a funny experience. Recoleta

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Another not to be missed area in any shopping itinerary is Recoleta, considered the most elegant

TO TAKE INTO ACCOUNT

area in the city. Along its streets and avenues we

The traditional “Galerías Pacífico”, whose building has been listed by national decree as historic site,

can find first class offers in home decoration and

In Buenos Aires and other big cities such as Córdoba,

are very interesting thanks to the Wide and sophis-

fashion. In the first place, it is convenient to land

Rosario and Mendoza stores are usually open from 9

ticated offer (more than 150 stores) and also the

on Buenos Aires Design Center; picturesque shop-

AM and 8 PM. Shopping malls remain open until 11 PM.

prestige of “Centro Cultural Jorge Luis Borges”, an

ping mall specialized in home interiors.

Take into account that in small cities, it is frequent that

icon of Argentine Literature.

Recoleta is also the perfect area to buy top de-

commercial and administrative activity are completely in-

signers clothes. Along Alvear Av. And Quintana Av.

terrupted between 1 PM and 4 PM as it is customary to

Patio Bullrich, located of the emblematic Libertador

you can spot well-known fashion and jewelry stores.

rest and it is time for siesta.

Av. is also highly recommended.

San Telmo

Shopping malls near downtown Shopping malls near downtown are also a remarkable stop in the “porteño” shopping map.

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San Telmo area is another big temptation for visi124.

tors willing to find antiques and unique items.

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SECTION #04: FULFILLED WHIMS There are about 80 antique stores around the

La Boca

neighborhood and many stores sell old furniture,

Local identity and tradition also have place in La

glassware, sculptures and silverware. Regarding

Boca, the colorful neighborhood of the city. Surely,

silversmith, both Juan Carlos Pallarols and Marcelo

here you can find the most representative souve-

Toledo workshops are internationally prestigious.

nirs from your stay in Buenos Aires. You can get all kinds of crafts and local products as “mates”.

· Galerías Pacífico:

Defensa St. turns into an open air street market.

www.galeriaspacifico.com.ar

On Sundays, Defensa St. turns into an open air

· Paseo Alcorta: www.paseoalcorta.com.ar

street market animated with tango shows and a

· Patio Bullrich: www.shoppingbullrich.com.ar

variety of local artistic expressions.

SHOPPINGS MALLS Most visited shopping malls by LGBT tourists in our country. · Alto Palermo: www.altopalermo.com.ar · Abasto Shopping: www.abasto-shopping.com.ar

· Recoleta Mall: www.recoletamall.com.ar · Alto Noa Shopping (Salta): www.altonoa.com.ar · Alto Rosario Shopping (Rosario): www.alto-rosario.com.ar

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· Portal Rosario(Rosario): www.portalshopping.com.ar · Mendoza Plaza Shopping (Mendoza): www.mendozaplazashopping.com · Patio Olmos (Córdoba): www.patioolmos.com · Nuevo Centro Shopping (Córdoba): www.nuevocentro.com.ar

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SECTION #04: FULFILLED WHIMS The laborious “fileteado” (type of artistic drawing)

buying. A heritage of the strong Argentine “gaucho”

technique appears on many objects as a hallmark

tradition, leather is turned into ornamental elements,

of the place.

clothing and apparel. In specialized stores called “talabarterías” (saddlery stores) you can get from bags and

Palermo

jackets, to belts and shoes. These leather products are

It is recommended to explore Palermo area to track

sold throughout the country although the quality and

objects and furniture designed by local artists.

prices can vary significantly. ·

Around Plaza Serrano, in the same neighborhood, there is an interesting and colorful clothing offer, often sold by their own designers. The artisan works on leather, highly appreciated worldwide, are another interesting alternative when

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EXPRESSIONS AND EMOTIONS The hospitality and warmth of Argentines can be felt firsthand in various events designed by and for the LGBT community. Colorful demonstrations, art shows and music festivals are some of the vibrant collective experiences you can be a part of.

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Argentina, at the forefront of LGBT rights in Latin America is the perfect setting for expression and joy. With over two deca-

NATIONAL HOT BEAR WEEKEND

des of history, the Gay Pride Parade of Buenos Aires city attracts during the month of November

The bear community in Córdoba province

hundreds of thousands of attendees. Beyond its

celebrates National Hot Bear Weekend

vindictive tone, the event becomes a real party

several times a year.

outdoor part of the Plaza de Mayo and runs just over 1 kilometer to finish at the doors of the National Congress.

Argentina, at the forefront of LGBT rights in Latin America is the perfect setting for expression and joy.

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unmistakable province’s wine essence, this cele-

place the LGBT Film Festival. In Rosario (Santa Fe

bration which began in 1996 as an underground

Province) is held “DiverFest” an expression of art,

celebration in the gay night today it has become

culture and entertainment in the local LGBT com-

The Gay Pride also lives in cities like Córdoba (since

a crowded big success. There is a significant

munity open to all.

2009), Rosario (since 2008), and Mendoza (since

amount of artists on stage, renowned DJ’s and

2010) that each year renew their proposal in this

the official competition that crowns the King and

Tango & Milonga

regard.

Queen of the Night.

The Buenos Aires-rooted rhythm and perhaps one

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of its most notorious identity features does not esIn the region of Cuyo, LGBT agenda merges with

Instituted more recently, the Gay National Festival

cape the passage of time or the modernization of

traditional events creating two unique parties.

of the Sun -in the city of San Juan has its own co-

customs. It is held, since 2007, the International

Thus, the city of Mendoza is decked in March on

lor. It takes place during the month of February and

Queer Tango Festival, an initiative encouraging all

the occasion of “Vendimia” for the “Gay Harvest

is distinguished by continuous drag queens shows

who want to immerse themselves in this an authen-

Festival”, “Harvest for All”. Simultaneously with the

and performances. In the city of Santa Fe takes

tic art expression. Learn to dance, get into its cap-

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TANGO HERITAGE

INFORMATION ABOUT NIGHTLIFE OPTIONS

The Tango, listed Intangible Cultural Heritage

There is a great choice of evening entertain-

by UNESCO.

ment for the LGBT community and for each of their different profiles, in cities such as Buenos Aires, Mendoza, Córdoba, Rosario and Mar del Plata, and on a smaller scale in many Argentine cities also offer alternatives in their local gay scenes.

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CARNIVAL COLORS

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tivating history or just enjoy it as a spectator are some of the experiences that proposes the festival,

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During the austral summer, some nor-

which takes place during the first half of Novem-

theastern riverside cities as Gualeguaychú

ber. So, “milongas” (tango ball rooms), lessons and

or Corrientes are transformed to organize

performances alternate for seven days no matter

lively carnival celebrations. The gigantic pa-

who dances with whom. Each year the festival ho-

rades not only transmit magic and joy but

nors a European capital. Berlin and Copenhagen

also allow us to appreciate the painstaking

were already honored. In Buenos Aires, there is a

work of artisans and costume designers

significant choice of tango houses that offer dinner

who spend long months getting everything

and tango shows, both traditional and so called

ready for the for the occasion.

fantasy. ·

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FREE

YOUR ENERGY Vertigo, challenge, adventure, these words get in Argentina new and interesting meanings when experiencing intense emotions practicing all kinds of sports. 171.

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he diversity of landscapes and topography

Cerro Catedral, near Bariloche, is the oldest and most

attracts professionals and amateurs to a

important center of winter sports in South America,

wide range of activities. So while meande-

its 53 tracks allow snowboarding, sledding, cross

ring rivers from the West (Mendoza, Neuquén, Río

country skiing and downhill skiing. Other ski resorts

Negro) are ideal for rafting, the shores on the Ar-

are also recommended: Las Leñas (Mendoza),

gentine Sea are perfect for diving (especially Puerto

Caviahue (Neuquén), La Hoya (Chubut) and Cerro

Madryn). Lago Traful (Neuquén) and Iberá marshes

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(Corrientes) are also great options to immerse one-

Castor (Tierra del Fuego). And also Chapelco and Cerro Bayo (Neuquén).

self in lush aquatic environments.

Cerro Catedral, near Bariloche, is the oldest and most important center of winter sports in South America.

Northeastern rivers, such as the Paraná and Uruguay, and the Atlantic Ocean and the Río de la Plata also invite visitors to practice water sports including kayaking, sailing, surfing and windsurfing. An interesting point for lovers of these activities is

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the city of Tigre, located just 30 kilometers from Buenos Aires and its almost twenty rowing clubs

NATIONAL SPORT DUCK

with a long history.

The sports scene would be incomplete without Argentine National Sport practiced since the seventeenth

mentioning golf and polo, sports highly valued by

The adventure of paragliding or hang-gliding beco-

century. He is known in the world as Horseball and it is

traditional families in Argentina. With nearly 300 golf

mes a fascinating experience in the mountains of

an equestrian sport combining Polo and Basketball. In

courses, the country has experienced a huge growth

the province of Córdoba. The area of Villa de Merlo

2006 Argentina was developed in the First World Duck-

in the flow of foreigners attracted by theses sports.

(San Luis) is more than adequate because of the

Horseball where Argentina came second. This sport is

The charms of polo and the “Argentine Open Cham-

combination of its pleasant temperatures and the

practiced in the same fields of Polo.

pionship”, which has gained international prestige,

favorable topography.

are to be experienced at exclusive country clubs located a few kilometers from the city of Buenos Aires.

In Patagonia, the kind geography and abundant austral winter snow are enhanced each year to seduce both experienced skiers and beginners.

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Sports being yourself In 2007, the first Gay World Cup in Argentina

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SECTION #06: FREE YOUR ENERGY excited athletes seeking an area in which to feel included. Today, the National Gay Football Team INFORMATION ABOUT SPORT ASSOCIATIONS AND THEIR WEBS

(SAFG) and the Gay Football Team “Los Dogos” (The Bulldogs) represent Argentina in international tournaments.

The National Gay Football Team (SAFG) and the Gay Football Team “Los Dogos” (The Bulldogs) represent Argentina in international tournaments.

Some of the associations that bring together 190.

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LGBT athletes of different disciplines: · ADAPLI (Amateur Sports Association for Inclusion): www.adapli.es.tl · THE BULLDOGS (Football) · SAFG (Gay Soccer Team Argentina) · RAINBOW BIKERS: www.rainbowbikers.blogspot.es

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In Argentina there are similar initiatives in other sports and recreational activities. Thus, for more than a decade the group Palermo Hockey LGBT gathers fans of the sport (on grass) while Rainbow Bikers does the same with cycling. Also the association

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ADAPLI gathers other LGBT sport disciplines such as volleyball, tennis, paddle and swimming.

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If your plan is to share experiences with people who have your same codes, these proposals are for you. ·

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MUST-SEE

ARGENTINA To fully appreciate Argentina, no trip is complete if you don’t visit its most iconic sites. At the top of the Andes Mountains, inside the wild jungles or under the burning sun of the Northern valleys, intense experiences await in a multitude of landscapes.


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I

In the Northwest, “Quebrada de Humahuaca”

tic visual illusions, such as small rainbows formed

in Jujuy province, surprises travelers with the

by uneven water fall.

charm of its tropical climate and the whimsical

colors of its mountains. No lover of photographs

La Rioja and San Juan

wants to miss the attractive town of Purmamarca

In a country as large as Argentina, these eccentric

and the “Cerro de los Siete Colores” (Seven colors

expressions of Mother Earth appear in different cli-

Mountain) or the curious “Painter’s Palette”, near

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the picturesque Maimará.

mates and under the most striking shapes. Talampaya National Park and the Valley of the Moon, Ischigualasto Provincial Park (in the provinces of La

This region has a rich pre-Hispanic and Colonial

Rioja and San Juan, respectively) are two magical

past, and it has been declared “World Heritage

regions rich in geological formations.

Site” in 2003 and is one of the warmest areas of

Talampaya National Park and the Valley of the Moon, are two magical regions rich in geological formations.

the country. Further south, in the province of Tucumán, we can find

213.

landscapes that are equally wonderful such as the hills around the towns of Tafí del Valle and Famaillá.

Iguazú Falls To feel the force of nature at its finest, Iguazú Falls,

Ischigualasto Park houses one of the most im-

within the national park of the same name, may be

portant paleontological sites in the world. Among

the best destination. Imposing and majestic, these

prints of dinosaurs and petrified trees, one expe-

waterfalls are over 70 meters up the heart of a lush

riences the feeling that time has stopped. Similar

subtropical environment that is home to thousands

experiences await visitors in Talampaya vast Na-

of plant species. The exotic fauna includes a long

tional Park, an area of more than 2000 square

list of colorful birds (parrots and toucans, mainly)

kilometers that is home to great whimsical stone

and animals such as anteaters and cats. On the border with Brazil, in the area known as “Devil’s Throat”, the vehemence of nature creates authen-

76

walls and rock faces carved by erosion. It is recom215.

216.

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mended to visit them in their own 4x4 vehicles or private excursions.

77


SECTION #07: MUST-SEE ARGENTINA

Southern Argentina Scattered in the four directions, the great Argentine

RUINS OF SAN IGNACIO

natural settings melt in the South, with the arrogance of the Atlantic Ocean and the vicissitudes of its

RUINS OF SAN IGNACIO (Province of

rugged geography.

Misiones), World Heritage Site by Unesco. Mission founded by the Jesuits to evangelize

Península de Valdés, Chubut province, is located

the Guaraní people of the region.

about 1400 kilometers south of the City of Bue-

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nos Aires, and it offers the wonderful spectacle of Southern right whales, national attraction, that between June and December come to its shores to complete their reproductive cycle. It is also common to see huge colonies of elephant seals, as well as one of the most impressive penguin breeding colonies on the continent (Punta Tombo). In the same region, it is worth exploring the coastal city of Puerto Madryn, Gaiman and Dolavon, founded by Welsh immigrants who arrived in late nineteenth century, and both towns have proudly preserved the traditions of their people. It is highly

221.

advisable to visit their typical tea houses and enjoy their sweet dishes. Another must-see destination in Southern Argentina is “El Calafate”, mountain village where snow, ice and forests combine to create a wonderful en219.

78

vironment. Equipped with a hotel and fancy cuisine, it is the perfect starting point for excursions

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79


SECTION #07: MUST-SEE ARGENTINA to the glaciers or a walk in the town “El Chaltén”,

duces with breathtaking scenery such as “Cerro

national trekking capital of the Province of Santa

Otto” and “Cerro Cathedral”. They can be seen

Cruz. 80 kilometers far from “El Calafate”, within

from the cable car or riding a sledge. The city is

the National Park, lies the impressive “Perito More-

known for its solid selection of hotels and their

confused with the legend. Here we find attractions such as “Faro del fin del Mundo” (End of the World ANTARCTIC TOURISM

novel, and a train almost one hundred years old

no Glacier”, whose giant ice breakups have beco-

culinary specialties. Trying their chocolate is almost

The season of tours to Antarctica begins in

me a real spectacle for thousands of tourists. The

mandatory as well as in Villa La Angostura and San

late October and ends in late March each year.

landscapes of this region can also be discovered

Martin de los Andes (Province of Neuquen).

from which you can see the recurrent snow strokes that dot the horizon.

In the austral summer period different ships offer the possibility of traveling to the White

from vessels that ply its frozen lakes or practicing ice trekking with specialized guides.

Lighthouse), which inspired Jules Verne to write his

Ushuaia, at the Southern end, is one of the most fascinating tourist spots in Argentina. Capital of the

Bariloche, Rio Negro, is one of the favorite destina-

province of Tierra del Fuego, in the vibrant city of

tions in Argentina. Nestled on the shores of Lake

50 000 inhabitants you will experience the war-

Nahuel Huapi, the national capital of the snow se-

mth of its people and the traces of a history that is

Ushuaia, at the southern end, is one of the most fascinating tourist spots in Argentina.

Continent. Itineraries can be variable, and the journey goes from a minimum of 10 days to more than three weeks and may include the Antarctic Peninsula and Georgias, Sandwich and South Orkney Islands. The ships used are icebreakers with reinforced hull.

Train to the Clouds This pleasant combination of train and nature is full of very different overtones nature at the other end of Argentina. On board the “Train to the Clouds” in the province of Salta, one experiences the sensation of caressing the sky with your hands while from 229.

their magnanimous 4200 meters high, you can see an endless variety of landscapes. Steep hills and arid valleys occur randomly along more than 400 kilometers. Intense and exciting, this trip not only gives won-

226.

derful unique postcard aerial views of the Puna 227.

80

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and its vicinity but it is also a unique adventure that synthesizes the rich geographical diversity of Ar-

81


SECTION #07: MUST-SEE ARGENTINA gentina and anticipates the many experiences that

(10 theaters) commercial (90 theaters) and “off”

keeps its territory.

or alternative (over 150 theaters). Most of the theaters are located in the vicinity of Corrientes

The spectacle of the cities

Avenue and the neighborhoods of Palermo, San

Beyond the undeniable natural attractions of Ar-

Telmo and Balvanera.

gentina, the rich social and cultural life centered in its large urban centers is not less valued.

In Mar del Plata, Buenos Aires Province, a major Mecca for domestic tourism, theater multiplies its

231.

The City of Buenos Aires captivates thousands of

billboard during the months of January and Fe-

visitors because of the quality and quantity of its

bruary. Located 400 kilometers south of Buenos

theater. The range of options, going from operas

Aires, this city of half a million inhabitants has a

and stand-up comedy to local genres as “revista”

lively nightlife. Buildings to highlight are the Casi-

(music hall), is grouped into three circuits: official

no and Hotel Provincial and dozens of beaches.

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83


SECTION #07: MUST-SEE ARGENTINA

Also in Villa Carlos Paz, Córdoba, it is remarkable the huge influx of domestic tourism as well as

LA ESCONDIDA (THE HIDDEN)

the wide range of its theater productions also during the summer season, mainly in the months of

One of the most popular beaches within the

January and February.

LGBT community is “Playa Escondida”, about 10 kilometers south of the city of Mar del Plata. This

Meanwhile, leisure and cultural activities acquire

beach is licensed to practice naturism and is fre-

their own profiles in the capitals of the provinces

quented by both homosexual and heterosexual

of Mendoza and Cordoba and the city of Rosario

visitors who love this kind of proposal.

(province of Santa Fe). ·

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85


SECCIÓN #08: MATRIMONIO IGUALITARIO

EQUAL

MA RRIA GE

23 PRO VIN CES

26.743

In all of them, and in the

In the first year 2,140 people corrected their data registry

city of Buenos Aires, there have been marriages between persons

and received their document according to their self-perceived identity.

of the same sex.

15.07.10

26.618 Is the number of law

that, as from 2010, allows marriage between same sex people in the country.

LAW

This is the number of provinces in which Argentina is divided.

+10mil

The number of

couples who got married during the first two years of implementation of the law.

° 10

The date that

the new legislation was passed.

° 1 Argentina is the first country in Latin America to allow gay marriage throughout its territory.

Argentina is the tenth country in the world to pass a law on marriage between same sex people (after the Netherlands, Belgium, Spain, Canada, South Africa, Norway, Sweden, Portugal and Iceland) and first in Latin America.


SECCIÓN #09: IDENTIDAD DE GÉNERO

26.743

The number of law that, as from May 9, 2012, allows trans people (transvestites, transsexuals and transgender)

to be registered in their personal documents with the name and gender of choice, and also mandates that all medical treatments fitted for gender expression are provided by the federal government.

GENDER IDENTITY

Unique This is the only law on Gender Identity in the world, and as the trends in the aspect it

does not pathology Trans condition.

° 1

It is the first country in Latin America to recognize this right to the extent detailed in all its territory.


PHOTO CREDITS

90

FOTOS ÍNDICE: Agencia de Turismo de Córdoba (8), Eliseo Miciu (25), EMITUR (11, 23), Federico Bedeschi (21), INPROTUR (9, 19), Jim Klug (22), Leandro Olmi (Nikon) (16, 26), Llao Llao Luxury Hotel and Resort Golf (12), Martín Acosta (10, 17,18), Ministerio de Turismo de Salta (13, 14), Paolo Petrignani (Nikon) (15, 20), Rossi (24). FOTOS INTERIOR: A. Gelves (221), Agencia de Turismo de Córdoba (4, 28, 45, 46, 47, 48, 175, 176, 179, 189), Agustina Barros (210), Alberto Patrian (144, 214), Andrea Ruggeri (Nikon) (7, 142, 186, 224), APN (67), Arelauquen Golf and Country Club Patagonia (190, 191, 235, 245), Asociación Argentina de Polo (171), Bodega Chañarmuyo Estate (102), Bodegas del Fin del Mundo - Neuquén (105), Bodegas El Esteco - Cafayate (106), Bodega NQN (103), Carolina Bitton (244), Cerro Chapelco (68, 172, 178, 182), Carina Valicati (88, 185, 192, 195), Eliseo Miciu (35, 198, 232), EMITUR (49, 69, 70, 71, 72, 211, 212), Emprendimiento Misionero (219), Enrique Limbrunner (51), Ente Municipal de Turismo de Mar del Plata (238, 239), Esquina Carlos Gardel (146, 153), F. Erize (222), Facundo A. Fernández (38), Federico Bedeschi (91, 170), Federico García (3, 84, 234), Franco Cappellari (Nikon) (138, 167, 197, 217), Galpón del Glaciar (60, 199, 225), Gobierno de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires (27, 33, 56, 109, 113, 117, 122, 125, 127, 130, 150, 156, 157), Gustavo Sabez Micó (107, 155), Inma Serrano Esparza (86), INPROTUR (1, 31, 34, 40, 52, 53, 55, 61, 73, 83, 96, 110, 126, 143, 145, 147, 154, 158, 159, 160, 161, 168, 169, 173, 181, 183, 187, 193, 194, 196, 200, 202, 204, 205, 206, 208, 209, 215, 218, 220, 231, 240, 241, 242), Istockphotos (111, 114, 116, 129, 131), Jim Klug (174, 188), Joaquín Carrillo (74, 80, 95, 141), Katsuyoshi Tanaka (115), Leandro Olmi (Nikon) (54, 223), Llancapan (140), Llao Llao Hotel & Resort (59), Llao Llao Luxury Hotel and Resort Golf (57), Luciano Bacchi (246), M. Álvarez (97), Martín Acosta (29, 32, 41, 43, 44, 58, 99, 100, 101, 112, 119, 120, 121, 123, 124, 128, 135, 136, 137, 149, 164, 165), Master of Food & Wines 2009 (98), Melito Cerezo (177), Michele Dalla Palma (92, 133, 134, 228), Michelin (237), Ministerio de Turismo de Entre Rios (151, 152, 162, 163), Ministerio de Turismo de La Nación (2, 5, 6, 30, 36, 37, 39, 62, 64, 94, 118, 216, 247), Ministerio de Turismo de Mendoza (75, 76), Ministerio de Turismo de Salta (77, 81, 82, 85, 87, 93, 207, 213, 233), Paolo Petrignani (Nikon) (65, 108, 148, 249), Park Hyatt Mendoza (78, 90), Pilar Golf Club (63), Rossi (66, 201), Secretaría de Turismo de Mendoza (79, 89, 104, 180, 203), Secretaría de Turismo de Santa Cruz (226, 227, 229, 230, 243), Teatro Colón (236), Turismo Activo Travel (184), Valle y Bodega Chañarmuyo - La Rioja (139), Vanda Biffani (Nikon) (42, 132, 248), Viñedo Las Mulas - Tupungato - Mendoza (50), Wine Spectator (166).

91


+ in for ma TIOn What to know before coming?

· SURFACE. Argentina has almost 3.8 million km2. It is 3,800 km in length extending from 22 º to 55 º south latitude. · CAPITAL CITY. Buenos Aires. · LIMITS. The countries bordering Argentina are: Chile, Bolivia, Paraguay, Brazil and Uruguay. (See map)

· RELIGION. Roman Catholic, although freedom of worship.

vices on board. The bus terminal in Buenos Aires is Retiro.

· LEGAL TIME I GMT. (Greenwich Meridian) -3 pm.

/ ROUTES. The traffic there toll free. Most are paved and

· ELECTRICITY. AC 220/240 volts at 50 cycles.

double circulation. Inside the country there are roads and

· POPULATION. 40,091,359 inhabitants. According to

gravel roads, generally in very good condition. / MAIN

preliminary information from the 2010 Census. The 2001

ROUTES. Route 40 tours the country from south to north,

Census indicated that 95% are white, mostly descen-

skirting the Andes. The 3 starts in Buenos Aires and cros-

dants of Spanish and Italian, 4.5% of mixed race and 0.5

ses the Atlantic coast to Ushuaia. / INFORMATION ON

pure aboriginal population.

STATE ROUTES: For non-concessioned routes (freeway):

· CURRENCY AND MEANS OF PAYMENT. Argentine

National Highway (011) 4343-8544. To concessioned rou-

peso. U.S. dollars and Euros are accepted. Foreign ex-

tes: Body Road Concessions Control 0800-333-0073.

change at banks and exchange houses. All major credit

How to communicate?

cards accepted are American Express, Diners, Master-

· TELEPHONE CODE. +54

Card credit cards and traveler’s checks outside of cities

· COMMUNICATIONS. Nationwide parlors are common

and resorts. With your card can draw weights ATM net-

(local telephone services and usually Internet). The pho-

work throughout the country.

nes work with legal tender coins or cards that are purcha-

· IMMIGRATION FORMALITIES. Valid passport with or

sed in booths. Internet service is widely used in specific

without visa, as appropriate. Check with your embassy

local bars and parlors.

or consulate.

What to consider when buying?

· CLIMATE. Argentina has a variety of climates. In general, the climate is temperate, with extremes ranging from subtropical in the north and subpolar in the far south. The summer with long days, is favorable in Patagonia and the southern Andes, in winter is the ideal area for snow sports. In winter it is advisable to travel north and visit the coast. Fall and spring are magnificent in Buenos Aires and around the country.

· POLICY DIVISION. Argentina is organized into 23 pro-

How to get around?

vinces and the Autonomous City of Buenos Aires.

· AIR. Companies flying to Argentina arrive at Ezeiza In-

· GOVERNANCE. Representative, Republican and Fe-

ternational Airport “Ministro Pistarini”, located 37 kilome-

deral, governed by a Constitution adopted in 1853 and

ters from the city of Buenos Aires. Domestic flights depart

amended in 1860, 1898, 1957 and 1994.

from Jorge Newbery airport, located 15 minutes from

· OFFICIAL LANGUAGE. Spanish (Castilian). Other wi-

downtown Buenos Aires.

dely spoken are English, Portuguese, Italian and French.

· LAND / BUS. Many long distance units have special ser-

92

· BUSINESS HOURS. Banks and exchange offices: Monday to Friday from 10-15 h. / Business Offices: generally from 9-12 and 14-19 h. Stores: 9/9:30 to 19:30 / 20:30 h. / Inside is usual to close at noon. / The shopping centers are open from 10-21 h. · VAT REFUND. At the international airport may recover the amount paid in respect of Value Added Tax, if you have purchased national products over $ 70 (per invoice) and in shops Global Refund system.

Contacts · MINISTERIO DE TURISMO DE LA NACIÓN Tourist Information Offices: Av. Santa Fe 883 (C1059ABC) Buenos Aires Tel.: +5411 - 43122232 E-mail: info@turismo.gov.ar www.turismo.gov.ar · INSTITUTO NACIONAL DE PROMOCIÓN TURÍSTICA Paraguay 866 - 4° piso (C1057AAL) Buenos Aires Tel.: +5411 - 48501400 E-mail: info@argentina.travel www.argentina.travel/autentica/lgbt YouTube: www.youtube.com/visitarg Facebook: www.facebook.com/visitarg Twitter: @visitarg Instagram: @visitarg · ARGENTINE LGBT COMMERCE CHAMBER Tel.: +5411 - 43818470 E-mail: info@ccglar.org www.ccglar.org YouTube: www.youtube.com/VisitArgentinaLGBT Facebook: www.facebook.com/ccglar Twitter: @ccglar

Sites of interest • CHA - Comunidad Homosexual Argentina www.cha.org.ar • FALGBT - Federación Argentina LGBT www.lgbt.org.ar • GMAG360 - Guia Turística LGBT de Argentina www.Gmag360.com Facebook: www.facebook.com/gmaps360 Twitter: @gmagazine360 Instagram: @Gmag360

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