DESTINATION KIRABATI AND THE MARSHALL ISLANDS

From the air, Kiribati is simply stunning. On the ground, friendly people, a strong culture and pristine water awaits you.

The island nation of Kiribati, comprising 33 atolls straddles the equator stretching 3235 kilometres across the Pacific Ocean. With traditions and culture thriving and visitors regarded as a curiosity, it is the Pacific of yesteryear.

South Tarawa is the urban hub of the nation with a large concentration of the population crammed into rows of houses squeezed together.

Land is scarce here, the lagoon suffering under the weight of people, but this is where government and commercial activity is focused, where the hustle and bustle of Kiribati prevails.

Venture away from south Tarawa and you escape this commotion, finding the unspoilt tranquillity of north Tarawa. To visit only south Tarawa is to miss the gentler side of Kiribati, the Kiribati where time flows with the moon and tides.

Located on Abatao in north Tarawa, our family homestay accommodation is delightful. The road halts abruptly at a passageway between the ocean and lagoon. A prompting whistle and a motorised canoe emerges from across the water to ferry us to the other side.

During the new moon, the crossing is magical as phosphorescence lights a trail behind us, swirling round our feet in the water; a step in the wet sand stirs a shower of phosphorescent dust.

Our guesthouse looks over the lagoon. A raised floor, roof of pandanus leaves and a mattress. Woven palm shutters keep out the rain, the lagoon breeze provides natural air conditioning! Home for a while. Privacy is pretty much nonexistent but it all adds to the Kiribati charm.

It is quite normal to wake up, see several pairs of eyes staring back from beyond our feet, hear a shy ‘Mauri’ and then children running away giggling! The bathroom is shared and the toilet has built-in entertainment as hermit crabs scurry around our feet.

Meals are local food: pancakes made with ‘toddy’ served with coconut syrup, fish, rice, breadfruit, pandanus and coconut. Sunset over the lagoon is spectacular with a ball of fire resting on the horizon, the sky blazing with shades of orange, red, pink, purple.

Serenity – apart from the lapping of the water on the lagoon edge and the distant crashing of waves on the ocean side. A receding evening tide brings fishermen into the lagoon, wading the shallows with a lamp, trailing a fishing net between them or slowly drifting in a canoe to catch the next meal. In the dark of the night, tiny lights shine out in the middle of the lagoon.

Beyond the homestay, the village and North Tarawa stretch out. Traditional houses cluster together, a school, a church and a small shop, little else.

Children line the street as we pass, quietly whispering or boldly shouting ‘I-Matang’ (foreigner) before running away. Others crowd round in friendly curiosity, following until we reach the edge of the village or they lose interest.

Beyond the village houses are sparsely spread along the track. I-Kiribati sit talking or carrying out daily chores; men climb trees for toddy; women sit weaving mats; children play, patiently practising skills passed down to them. There is no need here for TV or fancy toys – the children seem content with what their imagination and natural environment provide. Calm and tranquillity reign. • by Vanessa Nuttall

The Prince Eugen’s watery grave in the Marshall Islands’ crystal clear water during an oil recovery operation.

The Marshall Islands is unique among island nations being made up of 29 coral atolls and five single islands spread out over an exclusive economic zone of nearly 1 million square miles (one of the largest in the Pacific). The Marshall Islands is one of only four atoll countries in the world and is also one of the world’s youngest nations.

Approximately 2,000 years ago, these islands were first discovered by skilled ocean voyagers who searched the horizons for new land. By the time the first European explorers arrived, in the mid-1500s, almost all 29 atolls were colonised, and the people here had developed their own unique language and culture.

A young nation politically, the Marshall Islands gained its independence in 1986, after a long history of colonisation by Germany, Japan and the United States, beginning in the late part of the nineteenth century.

Marshall Islanders are known as one of the friendliest and most peaceful people on earth. Inherent to their culture are the important principles of caring for one another and kindness to others. These make the Marshall Islands one of the safest places to visit. While the local population is mostly indigenous, there are many mixed German, Japanese and American Marshallese.

With almost a million square miles of ocean, over 800 reef systems, and countless species of coral and marine life, the Marshall Islands is without question a scuba diver’s dream. The 30-plus metre visibility and year-round 27 degree water temperature make diving here exceptionally pleasant.

One of the Marshall Islands’ key dive attractions is the abundance of WWII ship and plane wrecks. Atolls such as Bikini, Jaluit, Kwajalein, Mili and Wotje are home to dozens of famous wrecks that have just recently been explored by visiting divers. With only three scuba diving operations based on Majuro and Bikini atolls, the vast majority of the country is just waiting to be discovered. Name your own dive site If you’re a diver who’s looking to escape the crowds and to tread new waters, this is the place to be. Indeed, there’s nothing more memorable than discovering a new dive site, and naming it yourself. And nothing beats the thrill of finding a new wreck. Without a doubt, your diving appetite will be quenched, or shall we say ‘drenched’ after a visit to the Marshall Islands.

If you yearn for exploration, discovery and learning about new cultures, you’ll find a visit to the Marshall Islands very rewarding. More specifically, a trip to one of the ‘outer atolls’ as they are called, will provide an unforgettable experience. Here, you can find Marshall Islanders living, for the most part, in the same form and fashion as they have for hundreds of years.

The outer atolls are completely unspoilt While Western products and technology have slowly made their way into the outer atolls, the island culture and traditional lifestyle still prevail. People here continue to rely on the sea and the land to provide for most of their needs. Men still sail their traditional canoes while women continue to weave crafts from native material. On atolls such as Mili, Jaluit, Maloelap and Wotje, you will find a multitude of WWII relics, including anti-aircraft guns, coastal defense guns, Japanese Zeros, bunkers and more.

On Majuro Atoll, the nation’s capital, you’ll find the major hotels and facilities. Here, there is an array of restaurants, bars and local craft shops. You will also find the Alele Museum, which houses pictures and artefacts from the nation’s past. Majuro is home to nearly half of the entire Marshall Islands’ population, and it is, therefore, quite developed in comparison to most other atolls. •