art smart
c fi i c a P e h T g n i t t Pu
On The Map
While we now have Google Earth on our iPhone, maps are about more than just finding your way, they are an enduring reminder of where you’ve been and how you got there, and make great art says Toby Preston.
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artography is both a practical and decorative art form, from a simple colourful tourist map of your favourite city through to antique examples from the 15th century. The first known use of printing to reproduce a map dates from 1472 which opened the way for the mass production of cheap and accessible versions of everything from your local village or county to maps of newly discovered countries and
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continents throughout the world. Early examples were often as highly decorative as they were speculative while large areas of coastline remained a mystery. The Pacific, bounded by five continents remained largely undiscovered by Europeans until first sighted by Spanish explorer Vasco Nuñez de Balboa in 1513 when looking down from a peak in Panama. It wasn’t until Ferdinand Magellan sailed into the ocean previously known
Opposite page: A beautiful map of Oceania and Islands from the 5th edition of Mitchell’s New General Atlas published in 1860. It is a steel plate lithograph with original hand colouring and can be bought from www. antiquemaps4u.com for US$190. Above: Map of Polynesia by John Tallis circa 1851 which is available for £90 from www.garwood-voigt. com Right: The famous Maris Pacifici, the first printed map of the Pacific by Abraham Ortelius, published in 1589 which showed the Americas, although in a distorted form, for the first time.
Above left: 1910 map of the Pacific from the Cambridge Modern History Atlas held by the University of Texas. Above: Ideal Home Magazine
Above: Join the dots and you get NZ on a t-shirt. Right: a tourist map of Rome, a great reminder of where you ate and what you saw. Opposite: A survey map of Molokai in Hawaii from 1879; and, a London Underground rail map cushion from www.makerhood. com for ÂŁ60.
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shows how to display the world on your wall from www.printedspace.com. Above: Pacific Ocean Seaports from a 1906 atlas.
as Mar del Sur (the South Sea) was it prematurely renamed the Pacific because of its apparent calmness – later found not to be the case. But it wasn’t until the arrival of Captain James Cook that the ocean was accurately mapped, although in the meantime a variety of explorers touched on the peripheral land masses and partially recorded their coastlines. Most famously Abraham Ortelius produced Maris Pacifici, the first printed map of the Pacific in 1589 which shows America as a much stretched version of what we know today and Terra Australis as the great southern continent which appears to incorporate Antarctica but does get the Solomons right. Map collectors mostly specialise in particular regions and collect both atlases and individual maps which can range in price from a relatively affordable US$150 up to the most expensive example sold at US$2.1 million for a 1789 map of America. Collectors and investors are advised to buy maps in their original colour and condition rather than ones which have been coloured later to make them more appealing and also to buy individual maps or complete atlases rather than versions that have been cut from atlases. That said there’s nothing wrong with simply framing a tourist map for its sentimental value as a souvenir or for its intrinsic aesthetic qualities, if it looks good on the wall then hang it. Equally they make great designs for everything from t-shirts to tea towels and cushion covers just because they are endlessly fascinating and less ephemeral than the Google or satnav version. •
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home style
Nomadic Notions r u o l o C f ld O A Wor
In her new book, internationally renowned Australian designer Sibella Court indulges her inner Gypsy and explores a world of colour from the Scottish highlands to the Galápagos Islands.
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woods of Transylvania; the Iznik tiles of Turkey; and the ancient tranquillity of Indochine.” Here we showcase some of her finds from the Galápagos Islands which lie 1000 kilometres west of Ecuador which is where she started her journey to the ‘Islands of the Tortoises.’ In this extract she explains; “I found that, in some ways, the Galápagos and Ecuadorian landscapes offered the same colours but showed them off in very different ways – a fabulous styling technique from nature itself. I considered whether to even place these two distinct places together, but if a trip is planned to one, it would be foolish not to explore the other. For these reasons your inspirations are likely to come
PICTURES: Chris Court and Sibella Court
ibella Court, designer par excellence and self-confessed Gypsy likes to come up with reasons for visiting places, she says “ I save them up and add to them. Once a place goes on my ‘list’ I might get a book recommended or stumble upon an obscure museum; a fabric I like might have been woven there; or the origins of an alcohol or a maker’s history of a piece of furniture might intrigue me. As I collect this information, different destinations jostle for a position in the Top 5” This no doubt explains the eclectic selection of places featured in her latest book Gypsy: A World of Colour & Interiors which ranges across the “softly painted buildings of Ecuador and the Galápagos; the moody highlands of Scotland; the wild
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Below: ‘High up in the Ecuadorian mountains, the homes were comfortable, with interiors that spoke of family history, each piece a memory but not a
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Left top: The colours of the Galápagos seascape. Far left below: You don’t need a lot of space to be comfortable, ‘for example, the collection of objects on the console works as a dividing mechanism in the room. It can be looked at and admired from both sides.’ Middle: create a ‘travel shrine’ by your bed which can ‘protect you while you’re sleeping and ward off bad dreams.’ Left: Create a ‘sanctuary or cool lookout ... even if it’s not facing the sea’ to inspire contemplation and as a place to hide away.
home all mixed up and this is very natural. “In a remote cove of pink sands, the shores are strewn with sea turtle tracks, sea urchin quills and coral fragments, with the dunes behind speckled with bluey-green prickly pears and holy trees that lend a beautiful scent to the scape. It was all very David Atenborough, and it became clear to me how this part of my Gypsy roving fitted together as I watched bluefooted boobies dance, saw the aquamarine, turquoise and milky greens of the sea and the shock of orange and red Sally Lighfoot crabs scuttling across the coral sand.” She suggests “Inspiration from a trip will never be translated in the few mementos you bring back (unless you did some serious posting home) – and shouldn’t be! Gather paraphernalia that reminds you of a area and mishmash it together. High up in the Ecuadorian mountains, the homes were comfortable, with interiors that spoke of family history,
each piece a memory but not a hodgepodge. Make it a beautifully orchestrated journey throughout your house or apartment, including the transitional and forgotten spaces. “Don’t be afraid of colour. It doesn’t necessarily mean bright or overwhelming. Here it has become its own neutral – a beautiful base to build the rest of room around. It reminds me of driving very high up into the clouds, surrounded by vivid green fields and mountains.” Indeed colour is Sibella’s most important tool and fundamental building block when it comes to designing interiors and informs her every decision whether styling a room, a commercial interior or sets for magazines. She starts with a palette of ten colours and while not necessarily using all of them she believes that the palette allows her to “experiment and play with the feel of the space” and that “as long as I keep within the palette, the end result will have a sense of clarity to it.” When travelling she advises that you “take note of what’s around you – don’t set out to find, but to discover.” She takes lots of photos and once home she looks at them again and pulls together a “colour box” and uses them for inspiration when gathering “flotsam and jetsam” which might be “pieces of fabric, ribbon or other materials, beads matchbooks, napkins from a restaurant, a glass evil eye, a feather or a leaf” from which she adds or subtracts to create the palette. Gypsy: A World Of Colours & Interiors is published by ABC books in partnership with Harper Collins Publishers Australia and is available in bookstores and online at AU$55.99 RRP. •
hodgepodge. Don’t be afraid of colour. It doesn’t necessarily mean bright or overwhelming. Here it has become its own neutral.’
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style
Wedding Bells e g n u l p e taking th More and more couples are choosing the Pacific to make or renew their vows. We take a look at some of the best resorts and speak to the experts about getting hitched in paradise.
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hat could be better than getting married or renewing your vows on a tropical island? Yearround warm weather, unbeatable sunsets and quite often, a much cheaper option than tying the knot in Australia or New Zealand. Dedicated wedding planners based in Fiji, Vanuatu or Australia can help you organise your perfect day. Take the hassle out of choosing the best location, finding a celebrant, ordering flowers and booking a photographer. Luckily, the Pacific has been welcoming betrothed couples for a few years now and some resorts, such as Le Lagon in Vanuatu have in-house wedding planners on hand. Planning your Pacific wedding does require some time, however, with both Fiji and Vanuatu authorities requiring some notice to issue a wedding license - two weeks notice is required by law in Fiji, 28 days in Vanuatu. Fiji also has age restrictions in place and other requirements and both countries need sufficient proof of identity and consent forms completed.
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Once those formalities are completed, it’s off to the sandy alter to say ‘I do’. In the following pages, we feature some of our favourite marriage specialists, from ship weddings to fantastic photographers and gorgeous honeymoon ideas. HOLIDAY INN RESORT, PORT VILA. Holiday Inn says their role for your wedding is to ensure your wedding day runs seamlessly, where you can leave all the hard work to them so you are free to enjoy your day with your loved ones. They offer several carefully selected packages, or can create a package tailored just for you. Holiday Inn Resort is the perfect place to say “I do” on the sands of Erakor Lagoon, in the midst of lush tropical gardens or on the secluded shore of the private Erongo Island. To make your day truly unique, be greeted by the magical sounds of the conch shell in the hands of a Melanesian warrior, paddling a traditional canoe. With the help of a dedicated weddings team, you can be sure your wedding will be both magical and memorable.
From top left: The Havannah Resort in Port Vila makes an ideal intimate wedding venue. Warwick Le Lagon caters for small to large groups on the beach or in their conference centre. Holiday Inn Port Vila has a romantic lagoonside option for weddings. Blue Lagoon Cruises in Fiji can arrange everything from catering to private beachfront weddings.
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long distance love affair
Sicilian agic
One of the country’s most historic sites is the Teatro Greco in Taormina. Built by the Greeks in the 3rd century BC and later remodelled by the Romans, this amazing circular theatre is positioned so that its proscenium arch has as a backdrop the extraordinary, dramatic cone of Mount Etna which is about 60kms to its south. Hard to know where to look really – the stage, the edifice or the volcano?
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PICTURES: Craig Osment
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Splendour d e M e h t f o e l d d i m e h in t The target of invasion for over 6000 years, Sicily’s obvious attractions these days are probably a little different to those of its former colonisers but most of them left behind something worth going out of your way to see, from Greek ruins to an active volcano, this is an island to savour for both its geography and its history says Craig Osment.
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Above: the hilltop fortress overlooking Taormina sits on one the many rugged peaks surrounding this wonderful little town on the east coast of
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t started with the Phoenicians, then the Greeks followed by the Romans then the Vandals and the Ostogoths, then the Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Swabians, British, and then Italians and now tourists. Sicily has to be the Mediterranean’s most popular island for visitors, welcome or otherwise, and for good reason. The place is alive with colour, culture and history and happily, sitting just three kilometres from the toe of mainland Italy’s boot, the home to fabulous cuisine culled from its colourful past and vibrant present. At over 25,000 square kilometres Sicily is the Med’s largest island and home to more than 5 million inhabitants as well as Mount Etna, one of Italy’s three active volcanoes, and not surprisingly (like the Pacific) is a little bit prone to seismic activity or earthquakes as we like to call them. Apart from its capital Palermo, often more notable as the spiritual home of the Mafia than for its history, gastronomy, culture and architecture, the rest of the region has a number of tourist hot-spot towns which have been attracting travellers for centuries. Among them Catania, Syracuse, Ragusa and the long time favourite Taormina on the east coast just up the autostrada from Messina the port which leads to the Aeolian Islands to the north. The island is an early example of deforestation with the
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Romans denuding the landscape in order to plant crops, of which wheat was the most important, and thought to be one of the first places in the world where it was grown. There are also vineyards, olive and citrus groves, date palms, and masses of bougainvillea, along with eucalyptus trees introduced in the 19th century to combat malarial marshlands, so the place is still lush and fertile, just not covered in the original forest. But its real beauty is in its architecture and human history which has to be one of the most diverse and multicultural of any place on earth. The legacy is most obvious in the architecture and the art which makes the place a sort of giant hybrid museum which has arisen from its place as the conjunction of Europe, North Africa and the East which bought influxes of traders, artisans, craftsmen and occupiers all of whom have left a mark. From Doric temples to the extraordinary Teatro Greco in Taormina which sits on a hilltop with vast views to the south and takes in the smoking peak of Mount Etna and the surrounding coastline and countryside. Originally constructed during the period of Hellenistic occupation, the Romans later ‘renovated’ the space and included a gladiatorial arena where the orchestra pit previously stood, I suppose when you’ve got lions and Christians you don’t need an orchestra as well,
the island. Above: Messina where the ferries leave for the Aeolian Islands. Below: the coast with its autostrada between Taormina and Messina.
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Above: The San Domenico Palace Hotel situated in a converted Dominican monastery is the finest in Taormina with a guest list to match.
anyway the remaining ruin again plays host to regular theatrical events and now tolerates Christians as far as I know. Taormina started becoming popular with tourists in the 19th century and the appeal has never dimmed it seems. Early visitors included, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Nietzsche and Richard Wagner although the sunny climate and relaxed ambience hardly seem suited the output of this lot. Later came a more appropriate crowd which lent the place a bit of a reputation as a latter-day Sodom, this lot included photographers and painters along with authors and actors as well as a few European royals who brought a bit of style and vivacity to the area. Among the more notable were Edward VII, Kaiser Wilhelm II, D.H. Lawrence, Truman Capote, Evelyn Waugh, Cecil Beaton, Jean Cocteau, Salvador Dali and Rita Hayworth, Greta Garbo and Cary Grant. All in all not a bad
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guest list for one small town. One of the attractions would have been a choice of fine hotels the first of which, The Timeo was built in 1874 and still operates today as one of Italy’s most glamourous retreats, another is a converted Dominican monastery, The San Domenico Palace which remains the town’s grandest and most famous hotel. It is a sumptuous mix of marble, wrought iron, columns and arches and stunning views across the foothills of the town to the Gulf of Naxos and beyond. Inside the building fronts a colonnaded courtyard with date palms and lavender gardens surrounding the outdoor sitting areas. The hotel is a short, steepish (the whole place is on a hillside so there is a bit of incidental exercise involved in getting around) walk up to the main town where you’ll find the Piazza 9 Aprile adjacent to the main street, Corso Umberto, here
Above: The town of Taormina spills down a hillside and is super quaint but original. Top and below: Piazza 9 Aprile, great for people-watching.
you can enjoy the entire Sicilian experience while sitting at the Cafe Wunderbar next to the Church of Saint Augustine sipping coffee, wine or a glass of beer and watch the town perform what it does best, enjoy itself. There are musical buskers outside the church, there are locals ambling by, tourists crowding around the railing overlooking Via Roma for a view out to the Mediterranean, and there’s the rest of the quaint little village just a few paces away. As you would expect, because it’s Italy there’s plenty of designer fashion to choose from and any number of restaurants, indoors and out serving plates of pasta and a variety of Sicilian seafood specialities and the local wine. Try La Buca at 140 Corso Umberto for something typically Sicilian, like spaghetti vognole or pasta in squid ink with a view but this is just one of hundreds and you can’t go far wrong at any of them, you’re in Italy after all. •
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island Islandescape Hop
Gaga fort Gizo t e r c e s t p e k
s e b s ’ c fi i c a the P
Gizo and the Western Province of Solomon Islands is open for business. With pristine water, hundreds of islands and some of the most
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oniara’s domestic airport is an airless, dark place and there’s a pungent odour in the air. I’m on my way to Gizo in the Solomon Islands and it seems so is every other person in Honiara today. Finally I get my boarding pass, am offered no further instruction so follow the crowd. The heat is oppressive, the airport is dusty and there is nowhere to sit. It’s safe to say I’m not in a great mood. Honiara can be hard work but I push on with the promise I’m about to see one of the most spectacular sights on earth. On board Solomon Airlines’ comfortable Dash-8 aircraft we leave Honiara behind. Within minutes the view out my window is indeed spectacular as we fly towards the Western Province of Solomon Islands. The water is shallow and clear with islands dotted everywhere and for a minute I think I am in the Maldives rather than the Pacific. A quick stop in Munda and we’re on final approach to Gizo. The water – oh the water – it’s the thing of fairy tales, movie scenes and billboards promoting exotic destinations one could only dream of visiting. We land and taxi to the little airport
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terminal but there’s no one here. I have no luggage but wait around for the other passengers to collect theirs in the hope I can follow one of them to town as there is no signage, no waiting transport and I have no idea what to do next. Eventually the small crowd heads down a path towards a jetty and board the waiting banana boat. I follow and hope I’m not invading a private charter. The boat captain smiles and offers his hand to help me aboard. Okay, I think, this must be what I’m supposed to do. I’m the only tourist and my fellow passengers look at me with curiosity. Wherever I am, wherever I’m going I’m surrounded by beauty so I smile back and think there are worse places to be lost. A few minutes later we arrive at another island – turns out this one is actually Gizo. A beautiful local woman approaches me and offers to help with my backpack. I’m not sure of her intentions for it but again she seems friendly. “It’s okay – we’re expecting you,” she says. The port area of Gizo is buzzing and we cross the road to the Gizo Hotel. There is absolutely no one in a hurry here,
affordable resorts in the Pacific, such as Saeragi at $AUD30 a night (above right), what are you waiting for?
despite there being a hive of activity. There are three girls behind the counter checking me in yet none of them say a word to me. Finally in my room I step out on to the balcony and am greeted by the happy sight of the street below. There’s a market selling fruit and veg, a live band performing on a timber stage and people laughing everywhere. Finally, I see the happy isles. Christina, my backpack carrier turns out to be the manager of the hotel and would become my godsend for my two-day stay in Gizo. She arranges transport for me to see as much of the Western Province as possible and tells me not to worry, everything will be fine. My boat driver is tall and handsome. He’s excited to be my guide and keen to get underway. Less than 10 metres from shore we’re scooting over coral gardens in iridescent water. And it continues. For ages. Coral and fish and glorious clear water. This is the stuff you see in brochures but the reality often disappoints. Here off the coast of Gizo it’s the opposite there are no brochures so I wonder
if there’s no expectation am I’m simply pleasantly surprised? But no, it is more than that. I wish I could describe how truly beautiful this place is. Soon enough we arrive at Orevea, a Solomon islanderoperated guesthouse. Patson the owner greets me and his proud smile tells me he’s a man who’s worked hard to build his little resort. Two semi-over water guesthouses are available to rent here. They are simple and pretty. The main house has two rooms, a breezy sitting room/family bedroom and a separate master bedroom. The deck has stunning 180-degree views of the lagoon and, Patson tells me, most afternoons resident dugong swim close to shore. The second guesthouse, accessible by an elevated timber walk way is the honeymoon suite. Raised high with even more commanding water views, this one has an outdoor shower, which makes Patson laugh. I think a visitor somewhere along the line has told him this would be popular and he doesn’t really understand why. To him, it’s probably nothing special. Patson cooks meals for his guests, but if you prefer you can
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Sanbis Resort is in a category of its own in Gizo. The long jetty with gorgeous open air bar/restaurant at the end doubles as reception.
self cater, the all-inclusive price is $SBD1200 ($AUD185) per person, per night. Next we’re off to Saeragi Beach, it’s not on our agenda but Patson tells me it is an absolute must-see and the place he sends all of his guests on day trips. William Giroi greets me as we pull the banana boat up on his sandy white beach. He seems to be expecting me as well and he smiles broadly. “Yu kam storian wit me.” Let’s talk. Saeragi Beach was devastated by a Tsunami in 2011, most of the villagers moved to higher ground and never returned. William thought the tourists would eventually come back and spent the next two years building two bungalows in the hope they would stay. Saeragi is secluded and beautiful, a perfect honeymoon destination and at just $SBD200 a night ($AUD30), paradise is a bargain. For those that have travelled to Vanuatu’s famed Champagne Beach, this is her rival – but thankfully, there’s no sign of a cruise ship here. I don’t want to leave but short on time and with much to
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see, we’re off again. About 20 minutes later, after being joined by dolphins on the way, we are on approach to Sanbis Resort. With its overwater reception and long jetty leading to the main resort I wonder when the beauty of this region ever stops. Sanbis offers comfortable waterfront bungalow accommodation and a lodge which offers total privacy for small groups. Bungalows have ceiling fans to ensure cooling breezes all day and night whilst the lodge has air-conditioned comfort. SCUBA, game fishing, surfing and boating are all on offer at Sanbis. It’s a different category of resort than the others I have seen, with more Western comforts. Bungalows start at $AUD268 per night, the Lodge from $AUD855 per night. Back in the boat and the next stop is an under-construction resort in the most stunning location I’ve seen yet. There is a strong sense of confidence in this region, the troubles of the past seem all but gone and in fact, I’m later corrected – the Solomon’s well-publicised civil war never affected this part of the country. The Western Province people are friendly and welcoming and I feel completely safe during my stay.
Fatboys Resort (right) has a laid-back, come-as-you-are feel to it and with great accommodation, this paradise is close to perfection.
We can’t get in to the new resort for a closer look; the workmen can’t hear us over the banging of tools so we depart for Fatboys. What a terrible name for a resort, I think, but on the way we’re again joined by dolphins, a sea turtle pops his head up to say hello and I see stingray in the shallow water. “All we’re missing are sharks,” I joke. Of course I speak too soon, around the jetty at Fatboys we spot several harmless black tip reef sharks. All of a sudden the name of the resort is irrelevant, I’m in a water-lover’s paradise and think my guide has saved the best ‘til last. Turns out Fatboys is named after a character in the Dickens classic The Pickwick Papers. ‘Joe’ liked to eat a lot, drink a lot and avoid work as much as possible, which is exactly what the staff at Fatboys encourage their guests to do as well. It’s laid-back cool, the open-air restaurant may not have seen much in the way of maintenance in the last few years and the décor leaves a bit to be desired, but the atmosphere is so cool and relaxed you immediately want to kick off your shoes and make friends with the barman.
Jimmy Buffet is playing on the stereo, I’m offered anything I want to eat for lunch and provided they have the ingredients, the happy kitchen team will make it. The drinks are cold and the view out to Kennedy Island (the very one where JFK found refuge after his boat sank during WW2) is, well, it’s just spectacular and I’ve completely run out of superlatives to describe this place. Again I don’t want to leave, I’ve fallen in love and find myself wanting to settle in for an afternoon of drinking beer and avoiding work as much as possible. But this is work so therefore I must tell you to get on a plane to Gizo immediately; it is absurd that there are not more visitors here. It is safe, friendly, beautiful and welcoming. After two days I’m back in Honiara and find myself looking at the capital in a different light. Everything seems better now and I know I have Gizo to thank for that. • For information on the Solomon Islands, contact the Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau. Tiffany Carroll flew to Gizo courtesy of Solomon Airlines.
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The Havannah is an intimate, beachfront resort at Samoa Point, Vanuatu set amidst flame trees and tropical gardens. With only 15 villas and three-room categories, the resort is an oasis of peace and tranquility. Each villa is furnished in a tastefully modern style with air conditioning and ceiling fan, king sized bed, private day bed on your terrace, Bose iPod docking station and mini bar. The Waterfront villas enjoy their own plunge pool.
T: +678 551 8060 F: +678 551 8062 www.thehavannah.com
Activities on site include pool-side lazy afternoons, reservations@thehavannah.com beach picnics, snorkeling, kayaking, petanque and tennis. Scuba diving, island tours, scenic flights and car rental can all be organized from the Havannah. Complimentary Wi-Fi is available in the public areas and in all the villas for our guests. The Point Restaurant, offers gourmet cuisine using the freshest of local ingredients with fine wines from Australia, New Zealand and France, while The Samoa Point conference room is ideal for executive retreats and small seminars. The Havannah also has a wedding co-coordinator to make your special day perfect. Whether on your honeymoon, in need of a quiet and relaxed break away from it all, or looking for activities in a beautiful environment, The Havannah is your perfect boutique resort in Vanuatu. The Havannah does not cater to children under 16 year old .
Eating Out
Picnic Perfection? Hampered by an innate ignorance of anything even slightly resembing a survival instinct, Craig Osment spectacularly fails an isolated island outing.
Honeymoon Island, Fiji
This is eating out with a difference, it’s eating far out, that is on a deserted island. Well, not entirely deserted there are apparently six ruminants wandering about in the form of goats but other than them it’s reserved exclusively for you and your loved one to enjoy in complete isolation for a couple of hours. This indulgence is courtesy of Likuliku Lagoon resort in Fiji’s Mamanuca group (see story page 78) which delivered us to this small dot of an island only a five-minute boat trip from the main island of Malolo, so we were hardly all that far from civilisation, but hey it was worth pretending that we were marooned. In this case our survival rations were prepared by the resort’s executive chef, Ihaka Peri and the loved one had made our selection from his extensive picnic hamper menu which included such basics as coconut milk poached chicken, mahi mahi kokonda, fresh coconut with lime and coriander and gravlax of salmon with avocado, cos lettuce and lime mayo – so not exactly the prosaic fare of early explorers or castaways. But it was all we had, along with a bottle of Akarua Pinot Rosé the LO having forgotten to order that most fundamental survival beverage – water. So after having been delivered by the two boat ‘boys’ who cheerfully farewelled us and discreetly disappeared having assured us that they’d ‘be back in a couple of hours’ we found ourselves sitting on a sandy little beach lapped by crystalline green water with a rudimentary canopy of palm leaves propped up on four sticks for shelter and a very nice red gingham-lined wicker hamper and an Esky containing the rosé. Plus some crisp white napery and a set of restaurant cutlery. Not a Swiss Army knife or machete in sight and no sign of a portable desalination plant. I think the idea, it being ‘Honeymoon’ Island, was probably to take advantage of both the isolation and the steamy climate to get up to something steamy and intimate in the name of romance. In our case we spent almost the entire time cacking ourselves laughing at how ill-prepared we were for this faux castaway experience while pondering how we’d either survive or escape if our new best friends, the boat boys, neglected to return. Having noticed goat tracks (I assume that’s what they were, could have been yeti’s for all I knew) in the sand we decided that slaughtering and butchering a goat might have been beyond our competence but that the nearby coconuts hanging tantalisingly close to within reach might have been
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a source of both food and liquid but in the absence of the previously mentioned machete might be difficult to crack with a butter knife. Might have to fashion an adze from a lump of rock prior to harvesting. A quick look at the other vegetation proved even more unrewarding, neither of us knew what any of the flora was, eating it may well have resulted in instant death or even worse acute diarrhoea, so we turned our minds to escape. The only thing we had that looked the slightest bit buoyant, apart from the empty rosé bottle was the Esky. And, after a quick survey of the beach an abandoned truck tyre (Are they buoyant? I assumed since it had floated to shore that it might be) which I decided could be lashed to the Esky with twine made from palm fronds which could be plaited by the LO. We then decided that her sarong would make an ideal sail for our newly imagined getaway craft if we could rig up a mast and tie it to the Esky with outrigger tyre. Although our destination was in sight just a couple of kilometres away to the east, we then realised that the prevailing breeze was actually coming from the south which even with my slender knowledge of navigation meant that without tacking skills (another missing gene) we’d be headed for the next landfall which was probably Vanua Levu a couple of hundred kays to the north. It was about now that we concluded that our mastery of even the most basic survival techniques for anything but negotiating a restaurant guide or home-delivered takeaway were about zero. Indeed if anthropology were to have any credence at all, we turned out to be about as adept as a camel on a skateboard when it came to human evolution and as for survival of the fittest we were Darwinian dunces. Sure we’d listened to those amusing radio programs about which CDs or books you’d take to a desert island but if they didn’t float and you couldn’t eat them they would have been nothing better than a makeshift mirror or a firestarter, assuming we could come up with a flame in the first place. We finally decided that the ultimate all-purpose survival tool that is a must-have on a desert island was Christiana Kaluscha, the food editor of this magazine who has sailed almost every island in the world over a twenty-year period and who can hunt, shoot, fish, sail and navigate. And then turn out a gourmet meal using a truck tyre as stock if necessary. That is until we discovered we had mobile phone reception and could Google our rescue instructions. •
Above: The reassuringly bouyant Esky and our two-hour supply of rosé, plus a very nice but rather diminutive antipasto selection. Below: Yep, that’s the ‘mainland’ just over there, so close but ... Right: The deserted Honeymoon Island, gorgeous – in theory.
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Diana Tam Vanuatu’s best known artist
Oil paintings, watercolours and gift cards. Hand painted table cloths, table runners, guests towels, cushion covers and men’s shirts. Ladies sleepwear and South Sea Pearl jewellery. Visit her gallery off the Pango Rd, just 10 minutes from Port Vila’s CBD. Monday - Friday 1.30 - 5.00pm & Saturday 2.00 - 4.00pm Closed Sunday and Public Hoildays. Telephone (678) 23038 | www.dianatam.info email for orders at dianatam@paradise.com
Welcome to the Reef Bar… Caili Christian, Reef Bar Manager ● Located at the Menen Hotel right on the oceanfront ● Coldest drinks in town and the best range ● Live Music three nights a week ● Live Streaming of major sporting events ● Bar food ( Best Steak Burger on Nauru!!) ● TAB facilities follow us on Facebook | Phone + 674 558 0671
TAV E R N
Vanuatu Food Safari
Slip your curiosity in high gear and join me on a culinary day out on our beautiful island. You are invited on my own cook’s journey through the South Pacific, a unique food experience that’s inspiring, informative and fun! Cooking classes by appointment. For details, bookings and availability please contact at the following:
W: www.vanuatufoodsafari.com T: +678 26 108 M: +678 775 1793 E: bookings@vanuatufoodsafari.com Conducted by Christiana Kaluscha Food Editor of Pacific Island Living
Come and have a taste of the opulence, glamour and excitement of Monte Carlo right here at Vanuatu’s premier casino. The Grand Hotel & Casino is in the heart of town, with crystal chandeliers, gold leaf ceilings and meticulous attention to detail throughout, you’ll feel like you’re there, and best of all it’s at a price you can afford! With Roulette tables starting with a minimum bet of only 100vt, as well as Blackjack, Baccarat and our newest game Texas Hold’em Bonus. Or just try your luck on any of our state of the art poker machines and have a chance of winning one of our many jackpots for as little as 1vt.
p +678 27344 hotel Lini Highway, Port Vila, Vanuatu e info@grandcasinovanuatu.com www.grandvanuatu.com
proudly
ul of Brisbane.
per night at the ing and entertainment.
base for exploring the city on foot fashion, from the Casino to South the Brisbane River. Spacious guest nd dining rooms. Book now!
BRISBANE
Reservations: Freecall 1800 655 054 stay@royalalbert.com.au / www.royalalbert.com.au Corner of Albert and Elizabeth Streets, Brisbane.
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island escape
Sunset Sensations e s i d a r a p ess l r e e p a In
The real Fiji isn’t to be found on the ‘mainland’ of Viti Levu, there are 333 islands in the archipelago so if you want the authentic Pacific island experience take the short trip to the Mamanuca group and experience everything you’d want a tropical holiday to be, says Craig Osment.
PICTURES: Craig Osment
T
his is the Pacific – it’s 27 degrees centigrade, I’m standing with my head and shoulders above the windscreen holding the ribs of the canopy, the Pacific sea air is being force-fed into my lungs by the 25 knots per hour speed of the boat with a 240 horsepower Mercury outboard at the stern pushing us relentlessly across the water, my T shirt is rippling across my body, the smells are a mix of saltwater, pure ozone, wafts of vegetation and light wood smoke, and … I don’t have the slightest idea of where I am. It’s 10pm and the only light is cast by a moon with its eyelid three-quarters closed, evidenced by a silvery glow on the water to the port side of the boat. Finally, the previously distant lights are immediately ahead and I realise, in the darkness, there’s the faint shadow of an island on the near horizon, we’ve reached Malolo on the most exhilarating 45-minute boat ride of my life. On the jetty, a clutch of Fijians are singing in greeting and in spite of the late hour and our delayed arrival, the good cheer that this place radiates is apparent from the first minute and is only reinforced when we arrive at breakfast after the next morning’s sun seeped into our absolutely gorgeous bure which is all of ten metres from the water’s edge. If all of that sounds a bit lyrical, it’s because the experience conjures up in a very tangible way the anticipated attractions of island life and Pacific holidays. While the region is renowned for the personal hospitality of its people, the hospitality ‘industry’ is not always entirely up to expectations; often it seems, relying simply on the location rather than the total experience. In the case of Malolo Island in the Mamanuca
group off Fiji’s Viti Levu’s west coast, there is a place guaranteed not to disappoint – Likuliku Lagoon resort. Indeed the seamless service starts at the airport where a representative of Rosie Holidays magically identifies us from among a planeload of holiday makers and whisks us away by air-conditioned 4WD to the Denarau Marina where Logan, our speedboat driver awaits our arrival. It’s from here that we pass the array of lights from the many hotels on Denarau and hurtle on across 13 kilometres of calm waters to the far western tip of Malolo Island and the assembled choir and the first of a thousand ‘bulas’ we’ll hear over the next week.
The Lagoon With The Lot At Likuliku Lagoon Resort you’ll find the ultimate in understated island luxury and Fiji’s only over-water bures which sit directly above a reef. Likuliku is described as ‘Fiji’s unique luxury escape for couples’ (although it’s the sort of place where a single would feel entirely comfortable). Likuliku means ‘calm waters’ and calm is a state which is exuded here in spades. While the jetty greeting is an ebullient round of bulas with musical accompaniment a pervading sense of peace and tranquillity is what this place is all about. There is plenty on offer for all tastes and levels of aerobic ability but the serenity of the surrounds tempers all activities, not in the spiritual sense Opposite page, top: Likuliku Lagoon’s overwater bures are the only ones in Fiji and allow direct access to the reef below which makes snorkelling a breeze. Below: Way to fly – arrive in style by seaplane or helicopter, speedboat and ferry, you choose.
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that attaches to ‘wellness retreats’ but in a very civilised adult sort of way that comes with thoughtful, personal service and a respect for privacy and personal space. Which is not to say the staff aren’t wonderfully welcoming and engaged, in fact I don’t think I’ve been anywhere where the people assigned to ensuring their guests’ expectations are met are more genuinely proud of the levels of service and warmly embracing of their clients. I suspect this authentic concern is a direct result of the employees having ‘skin in the game’ as they say in business circles. Likuliku employs many of the local villagers who are direct recipients of the land charges on the resort’s leasehold land as well as a percentage of all sales and an education fund, so in turn have a sense of ownership and a sincere interest in seeing that every holiday is a memorable success for both sides. The typical Melanesian affability is boosted by a remarkable facility to remember every guest’s name and greet you with a bespoke bula every time they encounter you whether walking through the grounds or in the restaurant or at sunset cocktails or on one of the many boat trips you’d be advised to take if you really want a sense of Pacific place. Likuliku has perfected both ends of the phrase ‘hospitality industry’ in that they have managed the perfect fusion of the congenial and the commercial. This is one slick and professional operation but without the conceit of anything even slightly fraudulent about the sincerity of the bonhomie. Everyone here seems to be enjoying themselves from the guy raking the leaves to the worldly, amusing and urbane Steve Anstey, the group general manager of Ahura Resorts which is the company which operates the property. Some of this pride in service and delight in the place must come down to the very real awareness expressed by the operators about the natural environment which they inhabit. It’s more than just a nod to fashionable concern about ecosystems and growing huggable trees, here they’ll take you on a medicine walk where your guide, Rusty, will point out a dozen local arboreal species with traditional medicinal qualities all growing within the grounds, there’s a virtual pharmacy outside the door to your bure which the locals have made use of for centuries. This consideration of the environment extends to every aspect of what they do (they even take the resort laundry offshore so as not to pollute the local area) and out of a desire to preserve the very things that attract those of us who pay to play here. The surrounding waters and reef are part of a marine reserve and it is forbidden to remove any part of it, fishing and coral collection within this area is not allowed. In addition there is a turtle breeding ground, a mangrove preservation area and a dry forest regeneration program underway as well as a world-renowned attempt to revive the future of what was thought to be an extinct iguana via the Fijian Crested Iguana Program which is run in conjunction with both Sydney’s Taronga Zoo and the San Diego Zoo. There’s even a seven-point list of dos and don’t when snorkeling included in the comprehensive guest compendium designed to help you protect the reef while you’re enjoying a float over the spectacular sea life and marvellous colourful corals.
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Above: All of Likuliku’s beachfront bures include generous covered
Apart from the 10 overwater bures there is a selection of spacious beachfront bures the deluxe versions of which feature personal plunge pools. All have extensive decks, lavish bathrooms and outdoor covered lounging spaces as well as direct access to the golden sand beach lapped by pale green clear water. They also include a walled outdoor shower area at the rear and plenty of air-conditioned and fan-cooled indoor living space as well as desks and free WiFi connection. In another nice touch each room includes a his ‘n’ hers Pure Fiji amenities pack of sumptuous, uniquely packaged skin and hair care products plus a signature sarong or pareo. My personal measure of the calibre of my accommodation is the quality of the bathrooms and the breakfasts. Likuliku measures up on both fronts with huge, beautifully appointed bathrooms and fabulous combination buffet and à la carte breakfast choices served in the resort’s only dining area, the Fijiana Restaurant. This is a vast, traditionally designed indoor/ outdoor space adjacent to the foyer, which is in the style of a Fijian canoe house, it catches both views and breezes and is under the accomplished care of executive chef Ihaka Peri, originally from New Zealand. He and his French partner Aurélie who is food and beverage manager ensure the fabulously fresh local ingredients are fashioned into the finest of meals accompanied by a comprehensive list of old and new world wines at very reasonable prices. One of the must-do things from among the many excursions on offer is a picnic lunch on nearby Honeymoon Island, a deserted dot of palm fringed beach inhabited by six goats and whoever you take along for lunch. Ihaka prepares a very upmarket hamper with a wide choice of menu options from which we chose the antipasto selection and a good rosé. Also on offer and not to be missed is the three-hour morning Island Hopping boat trip which takes you around some of the more interesting islands in the Mamanuca group, from Monuriki, the one made famous by being the location for the Tom Hanks’ movie Castaway, to Mana and Matamanoa to others with discreet boutique resorts, deserted beaches and snorkeling and diving spots, and there are coffee, croissants and muffins to keep you going until you return for breakfast. On top of the various boat trips, there’s Hobie sailing, paddle boarding, snorkeling straight from the balcony of your overwater bure, scuba diving, water skiing, wake boarding, windsurfing, fishing (outside the preservation area), walks and tours to the local village; where we, and our offering, were warmly welcomed at the Sunday church service which is lounging areas and the deluxe versions their own plunge pools. Below: the food is fab and fresh; the Crested Iguana; and the lagoon at night.
worth the short boat ride for the singing alone. There’s also the Tatadra Spa offering a full menu of pampering massages and treatments as well as a gym for those who like to do it indoors. Then there’s the indomitable and serene Tulia Seru, the resort manager, she’s the perfect dinner companion and good for a pre-dinner sunset cocktail at the Masima Bar (on its own small island accessed by footbridge) while watching the torch lighting ceremony. She’ll fill you in on her Fijian culture and history over a coco mojito while her ever-vigilant eye ensures that everything is running smoothly and to perfection. Indeed, if observing our fellow guests was a barometer of her success in this pursuit, I can’t imagine there’d ever be anything to complain about; one couple in particular appeared to have ‘got it’ perfectly – Germans of a certain age and limited mobility knew exactly how to enjoy the joint. After being assisted to their table each morning they’d tuck into a hearty breakfast and kick start the day with a AU$650 bottle of Dom Perignon between them before retiring to the pool to await lunch and dinner. Gemütlichkeit! The perfect total immersion island experience, go and be dazzled. Postscript: The return journey to Denarau Marina was a revelation; our speedboat trip this time was in daylight and Ocean Charters’ captain Nick Cooper took us on the scenic route back to the mainland, which proved to be equally memorable, but this time for the scenery. • Right: Likuliku’s lagoon is a wonder of nature with an amazing range of blues and greens in the surrounding waters, take a catamaran cruise or dive in right in front of your beachfront bure. Below left: The footbridge to the Tatadra Spa. Right: The Fijian-themed decor of the deluxe bures is cool and luxurious. Opposite page: The famous Monuriki island, location for the filming of the Tom Hanks’ movie Castaway and, the Fijiana restaurant which combines indoor and outdoor eating options.
There’s plenty on offer, for the indolent to the adventurous, every minute of your day is catered to by the easy-going and
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genuinely enthusiastic staff which are a feature of the resort.
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The Island
Fact File
Malolo Island holds a special place in Fijian mythology as it’s believed to be the place specially created by the gods where the sun came to rest after a day of wandering. You won’t be disappointed, the sunsets from here are glorious and spectacular, the perfect way to wind down with a drink on your balcony or at the bar while watching the sky turn to a blaze of orange and red.
The Legend
Above: The outdoor lounge at the Masima Bar which is a short walk across a footbridge from the main beach Below: Sunset torch lighting is an entertaining addition to evening drinks at the bar which is perfect for taking in the spectacular dusk skies which are ablaze with colour. Bottom: The stunning infinity-edge pool has plenty of lounging options and cool drinks on hand.
Fiji’s history began, according to legend, around 1500 BC when a giant war canoe set off from Taganika, north of Egypt carrying a ‘magic box’ known as Katonimana – the box of blessings. After various travails this box slipped off the outrigger canoe in the Mamanuca area and was lost. The gods decreed the box was to remain where it fell and anyone tampering with it would be cursed. They also suggested these islands would be a source of prosperity for future Fijians, which has proved to be the case now that tourism is booming here.
Getting There Fiji is a major Pacific airline hub with many airlines servicing both Nadi and Suva, among them Our Airline, Fiji Airways, Air Vanuatu, Solomons Airlines, Qantas, Air New Zealand and Virgin Australia. Check the net or your travel agent for details.
Transfers Rosie Holidays is Fiji’s major ground transport operator and can arrange transfers direct to Malolo see www.rosiefiji.com for details. Arrival at Likuliku can be arranged by helicopter, seaplane, ferry or speedboat, contact Ocean Charters Fiji at www.oceanchartersfiji.com for fast and efficient speedboat connections.
Rates and Packages Go to www.likulikulagoon.com where you’ll find information on the inclusions and special offers, including Free Summer Weddings packages. Likuliku’s rates are all-inclusive, including three meals a day and start from FJD1648 per night Bookings and general Information: Telephone: +(679) 672-0978 Facsimile: +(679) 672-4299 Email: enquiries@likulikulagoon.com For North American enquiries: Email: enquiries@likulikubookings.com Telephone: 1 888 9GOLIKU or 888 946 5458
Useful Phrases Hello: Bula Please: yalo vinaka Thank you: vinaka Eat: kana Toilet: vale lailai
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Residential Commercial Business Property Management Immigration Bldg, Lini Highway, Port Vila PO Box 3267, Port Vila, Vanuatu Phone: (678) 28080 / 5588309 info@professionals.vu professionalsvanuatu.com
Opp Vansec Bldg 2nd Floor next to Lotus Day Spa & Cafe P.O.Box 3267
Tel: 23153
Email: vilafitforlife@gmail.com
Web: www.vilafitforlife.com