Honolulu Magazine 2021 All-Island Restaurant Guide

Fête’s Korean Fried Chicken Sandwich, $11

4 COCKTAILS TO-GO • 3 SIZZLING STEAK DEALS • ALAN WONG’S LAST CALL

Over 108 years of serving Hawai‘i and its People.

Together, we have weathered through hurricanes, recessions, and now a pandemic.

Through it all, it has been our roots that began in 1913 in Hilo, Hawai‘i, that have empowered us to stand strong as leaders in foodservice. Still family-owned and locally-operated, our commitment to our Customers and our Community is stronger than ever.

Mahalo for over 108 years of food, aloha, and ‘Ohana.

www.yhata.com

www.chefzone.com

@yhataco

@yhata_neighborislands

@chefzonehi

E N J OY I N G O U T D O O R D I N I N G I N WA I K I K I

H

ale ‘Aina Gold award-winning Italian restaurant Arancino has been the destination for locals and visitors seeking exceptional Italian cuisine in Hawaii for over 20 years. At Arancino, you will discover a beautiful array of plates marrying imported authentic Italian ingredients with the freshest of locally sourced products. Join us for a beautiful al-fresco dining experience in the heart of Honolulu!

Best Italian Restaurant GOLD

Best Italian Restaurant GOLD Best Tasting Menu BRONZE

Best Italian Restaurant GOLD Best Oahu Restaurant FINALIST

Best Italian Restaurant SILVER Best Oahu Restaurant TOP WRITE-IN

Best Italian Restaurant GOLD Best Oahu Restaurant FINALIST

Best Italian Restaurant BRONZE

Best Italian Restaurant BRONZE

Enjoy ‘al-fresco’ outdoor dining at Arancino di Mare!

2014 Best Uni Pasta

Best Italian Restaurant FINALIST

Arancino di Mare 2552 Kalakaua Ave, Waikiki 808-931-6273 @arancinodimare Arancino at The Kahala The Kahala Hotel 808-380-4400 @arancinokahala Arancino on Beachwalk Waikiki 808-923-5557 @arancinobeachwalk RIGATONI AMATRICIANA crispy pancetta, onion, tomato sauce

www.arancino.com

36 We’re all about deals, and after months of takeout—where our only view was of the TV or our single Zoom-ready bookshelf—if it comes with elevated ambience and unexpected finesse, even better. We gathered a list of plates you can get for $15 or less for your dining-in or to-go pleasure.

By MARTHA CHENG, MARI TAKETA, CATHERINE TOTH FOX, KATRINA VALCOURT AND CHRISTI YOUNG

36 HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM June 2021

SEE PAGE 40

Photography by AARON K. YOSHINO, OLIVIER KONING Illustrations by JAMES NAKAMURA

HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM June 2021 37

C H E A P

KOREAN FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH $11

2 N. HOTEL ST., 369-1390, FETEHAWAII.COM, @FETEHAWAII

PHOTOS: OLIVIER KONING; OPPOSITE PAGE, AARON K. YOSHINO

E A T S

FÊTE’s Korean fried chicken sandwich always satisfies with a thick slab of tender, moist meat, crunchy Asian pear slaw and spicy gochujang sure to drip down your wrists out of the super soft brioche bun. A side of field greens ($4) adds a nice peppery kick. —KV

38 HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM June 2021

C H E A P

$15

E A T S

M I X E D B E N TO

MAILE’S THAI BISTRO began offering this massive plate of spicy green curry with

beef, Thai fried chicken, salad, pad thai and jasmine rice for takeout at the start of the pandemic, and while both locations—in Hawai‘i Kai and Ward—have reopened for dine-in, you can only get this lunch special to go. It fed me for three meals. —KV MULTIPLE LOCATIONS, MAILESTHAIBISTRO.COM, @MAILESTHAIHAWAIIKAI AND @MAILESTHAI_WARD

LEMONGRASS PORK CHOPS, $14 The signature dish at BROKEN RICE is executed exactly as it is in Vietnam—with lemongrass- and fish-sauce-marinated pork chops, a sprightly dipping sauce and fragrant, nutty steamed broken rice. Except you get two generous chops on your $14 plate, and instead of being pounded into thin, tough submission, these are a half-inch thick and juicy. It’s enough for two good appetites or three smaller ones; either way, pour the dipping sauce over the chops and rice. —MT 3607 WAI‘ALAE AVE., 729-0230, BROKENRICEHI.COM, @BROKENRICEHI HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM June 2021 39

C H E A P E A T S

FROM PAGE 37

TO N K AT S U S A N DW I C H ,

L AU L A U P L AT E $ 1 4 .7 5 If you don’t mind snoozing through your afternoon meetings, the kanak attack-inducing plate at YOUNG’S FISH MARKET includes a perfectly balanced lau lau, pipi kaula, sweet potato, lomi salmon, and poi and rice. You can also pick up just a lau lau for $6.50 (including a tasty frozen vegetarian version to warm up at home) or add on lomi salmon, poi or rice for $5 more. —CY MULTIPLE LOCATIONS, YOUNGSFISHMARKET.COM, @YOUNGSFISHMARKET

Forget the paper-thin layers of pork in many katsu sandos—the hefty slice of crispy-coated pork loin here is enough to push COCO BLOOM’s version toward the top of our list.

The pork is marinated overnight in shio koji for a tender and flavorful bite, then fried in rice bran oil and topped with red cabbage drizzled with tonkatsu sauce and surrounded by slices of La Tour Bakehouse’s soft shokupan.

—CY 3221 WAI‘ALAE AVE., SUITE A3, 784-0206, CAFE.COCO-BLOOM.COM,

40 HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM June 2021

@COCOBLOOMKITCHEN

PHOTOS: AARON K. YOSHINO

$10.50

MADE WITH LOVE. SERVED WITH ALOHA. Mahalo for your continued support throughout the years!

As with many other businesses, 2020 has been a challenging year for Café Kaila. We are eternally grateful to our guests and loyal patrons—without your support, we would not be standing here today. From the entire Café Kaila ‘ohana, we thank you from the bottom of our hearts!

TRY OUR AWARD WINNING BREAKFAST FOR YOURSELF! MARKET CITY SHOPPING CENTER Monday–Friday: 7am–6pm Saturday–Sunday: 7am–3:30pm (808) 732-3330 Cafe-Kaila-Hawaii.com

C H E A P UNDER $10

E A T S

BRAISED BEEF AND TENDON NOODLE SOUP

$9.75

9

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2 .9

V EG ET

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$1

The tea leaf salad often gets all the glory, but don’t overlook this option at DAGON. A trio of noodles is mixed—tableside when dining in—with more than a dozen other ingredients including fried tofu, fried onion, potato and ground sesame seeds in a tangy tamarind dressing. Opt out of the dried shrimp to make it vegetarian. Dagon’s sister restaurant, Rangoon Burmese Kitchen on Nu‘uanu Avenue, offers a similar salad, but you will pay a few more dollars to eat in its stylish setting.

—CY 2671 S. KING ST., 947-0088 42 HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM June 2021

1152 MAUNAKEA ST., SUITE A, 536-6222 PHOTO: OLIVIER KONING; ILLUSTRATION: GETTY IMAGES

R A I N B OW SALAD

LAM’S KITCHEN in Chinatown serves up solid Cantonese comfort food, epitomized by the long-simmered beef and tendon over look funn in soup (a version with gravy instead of soup is also available). Hearty chunks of tendon and beef (the English menu says flank, but it’s more like brisket in fattiness) are rendered soft and supple, a perfect match for the fresh, wide rice noodles. Choy sum and green onions add freshness. —MC

Fresh Air, Foodie Favorites It’s no secret that fresh air is good for your mind, body and spirit. So we invite you to stroll through the neighborhood and enjoy a meal alfresco at one of the many globally inspired eateries throughout Ward Village’s three distinct districts. Here, you can take your taste buds on a trip around the world while soaking up the beauty of the island.

East Village

Kamake`e Corridor

West Village

Maile’s Thai Bistro

Buca di Beppo

Chubbies Burgers

Off The Wall

Istanbul Hawaii

Wahoo’s Fish Taco

Piggy Smalls

Merriman’s Honolulu

Ba-Le Sandwich Shop

Scratch Kitchen

Rinka

A Howard Hughes Master-Planned Community

wardvillagecommunity.com

C H E A P E A T S

$12 WHEN AVA I L A B L E

SALMON KAMA

MULTIPLE LOCATIONS, PIONEER-SALOON.NET, @PIONEERSALOONHAWAII

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CLASSIC G Y RO $13

There’s something satisfying about a classic gyro: a mix of ground lamb and beef roasted on a spit, then sliced and wrapped inside a warm pillowy pita. YAMA’S MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE does it right with spiced meat that’s crispy on the outside yet tender inside, and dressed with raw onions and tzatziki sauce. It comes with your choice of Greek salad with a bright citrus dressing, garlic fries, dolmades, hummus, spanakopita or baba ganoush. Upgrade to the $15 super gyro for a pita-busting half-pound of meat. —CY 1020 KEOLU DRIVE, KAILUA, 263-4075

PHOTO: AARON K. YOSHINO; ILLUSTRATION: GETTY IMAGES

The portions are generous, true, but it’s also because the food is addicting and there are so many choices that PIONEER SALOON is a multi-entry shoo-in for this list. Whether it’s the garlic rib-eye, grilled salmon, deep-fried baby tako, mochiko chicken, pork hamburger menchi katsu croquettes or salmon kama special, every non-‘ahi plate on the menu is $10 to $15 (those here are loaded and recommended). Keto-friendly à la carte options come without rice and pasta salad and are $2 cheaper.—MT

STEAK

Wolfgang’s Steakhouse by Wolfgang Zwiener uses only USDA Prime Grade Black Angus Beef dry-aged in house for 28 days for the most luxurious, meltingly tender and juicy steaks, served sizzling hot with a perfectly caramelized crust. We also feature excellent seafood, signature sides, homemade soups, crisp salads, Black Angus burgers, delicious desserts, an award-winning wine list - and impeccable service.

SUNDAYTHURSDAY 11:00AM11:00PM

ALLDAY HAPPY HOUR DAILY 11:00AM6:30PM

FRIDAY & SATURDAY 11:00AM11:30PM

ROYAL HAWAIIAN CENTER, BLDG C, LEVEL 3 validated parking

(808) 922-3600 @wolfgangswaikiki

wolfgangssteakhouse.net

C H E A P E A T S

IAN

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PORTABELLA STACHE’WICH

CONFIT PORK BELLY BRÛLÉE

$13 .95

THE BEET BOX CAFÉ’s Stache’wich (named for mustachelike slices of portobello) is a whole wheat bun that struggles to contain a tower of portobello and zucchini, sautéed and made juicy with balsamic vinegar. It may be vegetarian (and can be made vegan), but everything is generously proportioned here, down to the lavish spread of feta and garlic aioli. —MC LOCATIONS IN HALE‘IWA AND KAILUA, THEBEETBOXCAFE.COM, @THEBEETBOXCAFE

The colors hit you first at O’KIMS KOREAN RESTAURANT—a green salad drizzled with black sesame dressing and a dish of purple rice, pink pickled onions, red kim chee and sprinkles of sesame leaf. Then there’s the burnished sliced pork belly that melts in the mouth. One of chef-owner Hyun Kim’s most popular menu staples, this is a singular indulgence that draws regulars back month after month. —MT 1028 NU‘UANU AVE., 537-3787, OKIMSHAWAII.COM, @OKIMS_HONOLULU

46 HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM June 2021

PHOTOS: OLIVIER KONING, COURTESY OF THE BEET BOX CAFÉ

$13 .75

For 57 years we’ve had the privilege of serving generations of families coming to share special moments. Thank you for your trust and loyalty.

To continue to earn that privilege, we will always strive to develop new tastes and special services to enjoy here and in the comfort of your home.

We look foward to hearing from you soon.

Mah Mahalo M ah ha h alo a 1525 Rycroft Street / www.pagodahawaii.com 808-948-8354 / 808-948-8370

$13

AR

IAN

Don’t let the photos fool you: JUICY BREW’s pitalike sandwiches are giant. The saffron-hued steamed kabocha buns threaten to overflow the takeout container and are stuffed with crispy teriyaki-and-yuzu glazed soy curls (the restaurant’s satisfying mock chicken), shredded veggies dressed in an ume chimichurri and accented with welcome vinegary notes from tsukemono. Each order comes with two of the hearty buns but don’t be surprised if you can only finish one. —CY

PHOTO: AARON K. YOSHINO; OPPOSITE PAGE, COURTESY OF PAPA‘AINA

E A T S

HIRATA BUNS

V EG ET

C H E A P

3392 WAI‘ALAE AVE., 797-9177, JUICYBREW.SQUARE.SITE, @JUICYBREW

Gourmet Chicago Style Popcorn with a Local Twist!

We specialize in craft made caramel, original furikake, real cheddar cheese, and organic butter.

Only Non-GMO kernels popped in 100% coconut oil.

Made fresh daily and bagged to order!

On O’ahu? Check out islandpopper.net to see our specials and order for in-shop/curbside pickup!

Want to ship it? Head over to islandpopper.com to share the Aloha! (shipping included in all prices).

1549 Colburn St in Kalihi.

Free parking in front of the shop Open Monday-Friday 10-6 Saturday 10-4.

Call 808-888-0101.

Connect on Social: @islandpopper

48 HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM June 2021

NEIGHBOR ISLANDS

MAUI

POLPETTE, $14

MAUI

SMASHBURGER, $12 The smashburger at PAPA‘AINA at the historic Pioneer Inn in Lahaina is special to chef-owner Lee Anne Wong, who took over the restaurant space in the iconic hotel last year. She sources her beef from Lopes Farm on Maui, which feeds its cows a diet of grass, unsold veggies from local farms and spent grain from Maui Brewing Co. The restaurant gets a half steer once a month, serving it as burgers, steaks and guava-kalbi short ribs. The crispy-edge smashburger comes with American cheese, sliced Kula onions, house-made pickles and Wong’s secret sauce. —CTF

Restaurateurs Michele and Qiana Di Bari—he’s from Milan, she’s from Brooklyn—moved to Maui in 2013 and opened SALE PEPE, a charming Italian restaurant tucked away in the Old Lahaina Center on Front Street. Its menu features hand-rolled arancini and classic lasagna layered with local beef ragu, béchamel and Parmigiano-Reggiano. The polpette on the restaurant’s small-plate menu uses Maui Cattle Co. beef, rolled into fistsize meatballs and simmered in tomato sauce with a side of fettunta (Italian garlic bread). —CTF 878 FRONT ST., LAHAINA, MAUI, (808) 667-7667, SALEPEPEMAUI.COM, @SALEPEPEMAUI

658 WHARF ST., LAHAINA, MAUI, (808) 661-3636, PAPAAINAMAUI.COM, @PAPAAINAMAUI

HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM June 2021 49

NEIGHBOR ISLANDS

Serving Hawai‘i’s Families for over 23 Years!

“ALL-DAY BREAKFAST” LUNCH • DINNER • FULL BAR

KIDS EAT FREE

MOVIE MONDAYS

THURSDAYS FROM 10:30AM – 7:30PM

Present your movie ticket stubs from any movie theater to receive 20% OFF dine-in entree with ticket stub and a beverage purchase per person. $4 Miller Lite Pints.

One free dine-in kids meal with purchase of an adult dine-in entree $12 or more and a beverage per person. *up to two free kids meals per table. Valid for children up to 10 years old.

WINE & DINE

MILITARY APPRECIATION

“THANK A TROOPER” & FIRST RESPONDER TUESDAY 15% OFF dine-in entree with valid ID and a beverage

purchase per person. $4 Samuel Adams Pints.

HAPPY “PAU HANA” HOUR

WEDNESDAYS!

50% OFF all bottles & glasses of Wine with any dine-in food purchase.

MONDAY–FRIDAY 3PM– 6PM

Discounted drinks and 50% OFF Patio Pupus with a two beverage purchase minimum. $4 Corona.

NEW KETO MENU AVAILABLE! GLUTEN FREE VERSIONS OF MENU ITEMS AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST.

RECEIVE $5 OFF ($50 OR MORE) WHEN ORDERING ON-LINE & ENTERING COUPON CODE: BCD2GO

WWW.BIGCITYDINERHAWAII.COM

PEARLRIDGE EAST • KAILUA • KAIMUKI • WAIPIO • WINDWARD MALL

MAUI UNDER $10

MOCHIKO CHICKEN,

$9

In 2016 Hilo-born chef Sheldon Simeon turned a 580-square-foot former bento-ya in Kahului into one of the most popular takeout spots on Maui.

One of the best sellers at TIN ROOF is the Kau Kau Tin with mochiko chicken.

Thighs are marinated overnight in ginger and shoyu, then battered and fried—then refried to order. The perfectly crispy chicken is topped with a miso sauce, gochujang aioli and housemade furikake. All tins come with your choice of a base—rice, spicy or garlic noodles, or kale salad—and you can add eggs, kamaboko or Spam. For $1 more, since you can afford it, add a scoop of ‘ulu mac salad. —CTF 360 PAPA PLACE, SUITE Y, KAHULUI, MAUI, (808) 868-0753, TINROOFMAUI.COM,

Lunch, Catering, Breakfast All Day, Pau Hana To-Go DON’T WAIT IN LINE! CALL IN YOUR ORDER. TOPA TOWER GROUND FLOOR 745 Fort Street #130, Honolulu, HI 96813 MONDAY–FRIDAY, 9AM–2PM Closed Saturday, Sunday and Holidays (808) 586-2000 info@burgersonbishop.com

@TINROOFMAUI

KAUA‘I

PORK BELLY BOLOGNESE, $15 Six months into the COVID-19 pandemic, JO2 RESTAURANT in Kapa‘a on Kaua‘i switched to what chef-owner Jean-Marie Josselin calls a “dim sum tapas menu,” which has been so popular, he’s keeping it. Though considered a small plate, the pork belly Bolognese is big on flavor, bolstered with the unexpected flavors of cumin, soy bean paste and chile. It’s served with extra-large, hand-cut noodles—made in-house—and finished with pumpkin and sunflower seeds and fried garlic.

—CTF 4-971 KŪHIŌ HIGHWAY, KAPA‘A, KAUA‘I, (808) 212-1627, JOTWO.COM, @JO2RESTAURANT

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POUR PARTY

Pau hana at home with any ol’ bottle of booze just isn’t the same as slinging back expertly crafted drinks made by our favorite bartenders. Thankfully, an emergency proclamation in April 2020 allowed restaurants to sell prepackaged cocktails for takeout and delivery along with food orders. One year later there’s still no end date, even with bars and restaurants open again, so we’re crossing our fingers the exception becomes the rule. (If the emergency ends by the time this issue arrives, the next round of these in-person is on me.) Here are some of the drinks that have been elevating our Zoom pau hana sessions.

By KATRINA VALCOURT

52

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2.

2. BEAUTIFUL AGONY, $24 FOR TWO SERVINGS 1. BABY SHARK, $5 Don’t be dismayed by the size of this 4-ounce bottle: REDFISH ’s takeout-only drink combines the taste of lemon-peel gummies with the fun of a white gummy bear shot for a potent but tasty sip. Lemon-peelinfused rum and white li hing mix with lime juice, strawberry liqueur, and blue Curaçao for the bright hue.

We wouldn’t judge if you stuck a straw right into the pouch that BEVY packs its takeout cocktails in, but the garnishes are vacuumsealed separately so you can assemble the spicy, smoky cocktail at home up to a week later. Smooth honey syrup and elderflower liqueur make it sweet, lemon and grapefruit make it sour, and habanero tequila and mezcal make it sassy.

6 8 5 AUAHI ST. , 532- 6 420, REDFIS HPOKE .COM , @REDFIS HPOKE 675 AUAHI ST. , 59 4-7445, BEVYHAWAII .COM , @BEVYBAR 52 HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM June 2021

3. MANGO MATCHASU, $13 Not everyone in Waikīkī wants a dark green cocktail, but locals know how well matcha can complement fresh fruit.

Imagine a healthy smoothie of matcha and puréed mango but replace the almond milk with Morimoto junmai sake and lemon-lime soda and you’ve got this refreshing cocktail from MOMOSAN WAIKĪKĪ.

AT THE ALOHILANI RESORT, 249 0 KALĀKAUA AVE . , MOMOSANWAIKIKI .COM , @MOMOSANWAIKIKI

4.

3.

Pick up some clear ice from ON THE ROCK, HAWAI‘I’S CRAFT ICE CO. to re-create the bar

experience. OTR also offers ice subscriptions as well as luxe cubes with flowers suspended inside.

720 IWILEI ROAD, SUITE 270, 356 - 8752 , ONTHEROCKHAWAII .COM , @ONTHEROCKHAWAII

4. TOKYO SPRITZ, $30 FOR TWO SERVINGS In summer, when day and night are equal, so is the balance of lightness and sweetness in GASLAMP’S botanical-forward cocktail featuring Empress 1908 gin, made with color-changing butterfly pea blossoms. Notes of rose, yuzu, lychee and shiso rise when sparkling Ozeki Hana Awaka sake tops off the well-rounded drink. It’s $8 extra to get a bottle of the sake on the side to add it in yourself.

INS IDE KAILUA TOWN PUB AND GRILL , 26 HO‘OLAI ST. , KAILUA , 48 3 - 0 56 4, GAS LAMPHI .COM , @GAS LAMPHI

HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM June 2021 53

LET’S MAKE A DEAL

Not all deals are created equal. If you want to almost splurge, here are a few favorites for dining in and at home that are not under $15 but are absolutely worth it.

By CHRISTI YOUNG

SUSHI OMAKASE TAKEOUT, $30

1417 S. KING ST., 947-3800, SASABUNEH.COM, @SUSHI _ SASABUNE

ALL YOU CAN EAT SUSHI, $29.99 Yes, there are other all-you-can-eat buffets. But the quality of the nigiri and hand rolls at KATS SUSHI on South King Street makes this one stand out.

You have two hours to indulge in as many of the 11 different nigiri and 17 hand rolls on the menu as you can finish, rice and all, as long as you follow the rules including no stacking or sharing with people ordering à la carte. And don’t look for loopholes: I know someone who downed so many unagi nigiri with his friends one night that the sushi chef actually glared at them and said, “no more unagi!”

715 S. KING ST., 526-1268, RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED.

54 HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM June 2021

SUSHI SHO SPECIAL, $30–$50 When the state shut down in 2020, something intriguing popped up on Instagram. SUSHI SHO launched @sushishowaikiki in March and its signature takeout just about a month later. The artistically arranged bento boxes hold a treasure of chef’s choices: Recently it included Edomae and kaisen bara chirashi with black cod, octopus, toro and uni side by side with an array of sushi rolls and appetizers. Do note, just as reservations for the $300 omakase were difficult to get in years past, getting one of these limited offerings takes persistence and luck; once a new Sushi Sho Special is announced on Instagram, calls are only taken between 2 and 4 p.m.

And we hear the phone rings nonstop.

INSIDE THE RITZ-CARLTON WAIKĪKĪ, 338 KALAIMOKU ST., 729-9717, RITZCARLTON.COM/EN/HOTELS/HAWAII/ WAIKIKI/DINING/SUSHI-SHO, @SUSHISHOWAIKIKI

ILLUSTRATIONS: GETTY IMAGES

There is nothing budget about the word omakase, but when restaurants had to shift and we could no longer sit shoulder to shoulder in front of the sushi chef of our choice, SUSHI SASABUNE switched things up. Its special lunchtime takeout showcases a grouping of sushi, selected by chef and owner Seiji Kumagawa, that barely fits inside its to-go boxes.

The 11 nigiri and six rolls nestled inside look as lined up as patrons on a busy night at the sushi bar.

Don’t wait to try it: The takeout may disappear when business in the dining room picks up.

STEAKS 12-OUNCE RIB-EYE, $25 AT HAPPY HOUR

TASTE OF NEW YORK, $49.95

Steakhouses offer some of the best happy hour deals. If you’re not tempted by the discounted seafood trio or sizzling steak on a stone,

If you can get out of your office/ away from your computer to make 4 p.m. deals, we’re jealous. For the rest of us, the WOLFGANG’S STEAKHOUSE’s workday-friendly happy hour, 11 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., includes this set of a 12-ounce New York sirloin steak, which, of course, arrives on a sizzling platter of butter with mashed potatoes, creamed spinach and New York cheesecake.

You can also get in and out in less than three hours, meaning parking in pricey Waikīkī is free.

THE SIGNATURE PRIME STEAK & SEAFOOD’s steak is the way to go.

The 12-ounce prime cut, rib-eye or New York, is a quarter smaller than the 16-ouncer on the dinner menu, but it’s also $32 less, so you can throw in a discounted glass of Stag’s Leap Artemis cab while you drink in the views from the top of the Ala Moana Hotel, and still get change back for a 50.

4:30-6:30 P.M. DAILY, 410 ATKINSON DRIVE, 949-3636, SIGNATUREPRIMESTEAK.COM, @THESIGNATUREPRIMESTEAK

FILET MIGNON FAMILY DINNER, $265 FOR FIVE Unless you pull out your own bow tie and three-piece suit, you’ll have to skip the traditional white linen service with HY’S STEAK HOUSE’s take-home box. But, for just about $53 a person, you will get filet mignon ($62 each when dining in) cooked rare, with instructions for careful reheating, along with cheese biscuits, salad, pesto vegetables, mashed potatoes and cheesecake.

2440 KŪHIŌ AVE., 922-5555, HYSWAIKIKI.COM, @HYSHAWAII

922-3600, WOLFGANGSSTEAKHOUSE.NET, @WOLFGANGSWAIKIKI

PRIX FIXE CHEF CHAI, $47 FOR FOUR COURSES You have to get a seat before 5 p.m., but the range of the Early Bird menu is a great incentive for the early start. It includes chicken satay, a sampler of appetizers, including Chai Chaowasaree’s signature and always impressive looking kataifi- and mac nut-crusted tiger prawns, your choice of entrée and a chocolate truffle and halo-halo to finish.

1009 KAPI‘OLANI BLVD., 585-0011, CHEFCHAI.COM, @CHEFCHAIPACIFICA

MUD HEN WATER, $140 FOR FOUR PEOPLE The family-style menu is just right for those who usually end up ordering one of everything on the menu. The last lineup included 11 of the 17 offerings, from pohole and chef Ed Kenney’s preserved akule, whimsically served in a sardine can, to the fried J. Ludovico chicken and all three desserts. When this magazine was going to print, you could order it to-go, if you could get it before it sold out.

MIRO KAIMUKĪ, $70 FOR FIVE COURSES If you go to Miro, prix fixe is your only option. But we’re not complaining. Each item is described simply by the main ingredients which means we never really know what the heck is coming next. Check @mirokaimuki on Instagram for photos if you’re the type who reads the end of a book first; otherwise, sit back and prepare to be surprised.

3446 WAI‘ALAE AVE., 379-0124, MIROKAIMUKI.COM, @MIROKAIMUKI

3542 WAI‘ALAE AVE., 737-6000, MUDHENWATER.COM, @MUDHENWATER

HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM June 2021 55

SAYING GOODBYE, FOR NOW

56 HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM June 2021

HE THOUGHT OF CLOSING the restaurant was absolute-

ly horrible. I could see the writing on the wall. So I had to make the call. I went through every range of emotion you can imagine. The pandemic made the shit hit the fan in a way no one could have imagined. One of the saddest things was we had to clean out all of our offices and storage rooms. It all sat in the middle of the dining room. It was a sight to see with metro shelving filled with china, glass, silverware, kitchen equipment, dry goods and everything we had accumulated. There was also so much memorabilia: articles written, awards, recognitions, pictures, gifts and special mementos. I realized how much I was going to miss this place that I went to almost every day in my life for the past 25 years-plus.

When the majority of it ended, all the things gone and auctioned off and we left the premises, I felt strange. I was wired to do what I did, in the place that I did it, and all of a sudden it stopped. It’s not like a water faucet where you can just turn it off. I knew I had to detach, or it would get too emotional. Healing from this would become a personal thing that I did in my own quiet time, in my own way, and in my own mind. I am thankful for the dear friends I have.

One of the most important things to me was making sure we closed the right way. That meant that every member of the staff received their last

PHOTO: TRACY WRIGHT-CORVO

In November, Alan Wong decided to close his signature restaurant on King Street, one that earned dozens of awards, served a president, and trained and inspired a whole new generation of chefs. Wong spoke about the difficult decision, his memories and what he’s most proud of with one of his former line cooks, HONOLULU’s Martha Cheng.

Small Bites Here’s a taste of what you may have missed in our daily dining blog, Frolic Hawai‘i. frolichawaii.com

Belly Up to the Bar If you were thinking about a night at Bar Leather Apron, you better make those reservations now. Chef Colin Hazama has crafted a menu to go with the already popular bar’s hand-crafted cocktails, and it’s fabulous. bit.ly/hn-bla-menu

Pier Pleasure Poke fans rejoice.

‘Ahi Assassins, which shuttered its Mō‘ili‘ili shop in 2020, is now consistently serving its fresh fish and signature recipes again on the Windward Side. bit.ly/hn-ahiassassins

PHOTOS: THOMAS OBUNGEN, MARI TAKETA, COURTESY KASAMA RUM

paychecks to the end and all of our vendors got paid in full. Most of our vendors whom we bought things from were relationships for us. I couldn’t destroy that, and everyone needed to be kept whole.

My favorite memories are all related to people. The guests, the friends of the restaurant, the vendors, the farmers, the ranchers, the producers, the senior citizens of Mō‘ili‘ili, the Easter Seals kids, and last but not least, the staff.

I am most proud of the fact that we became more than just a restaurant. We touched many parts of our community. We championed things like tilapia, something locals don’t like to eat. I put it on the menu, served it at the White House. We were one of the first to buy Ka‘ū coffee and goat cheese from Dick and Heather Threlfall [of Hawai‘i Island Goat Dairy]. Hawai‘i wasn’t a great cheese-eating culture, but that cheese made Hawai‘i eat a little more, and now we have more cheese makers and varieties. I remember buying grass-fed beef from Rick Habein on the Big Island, and later from Doc Lum from the North Shore Cattle Co. Every year we took a farm trip to the Big Island with some staff. The goals were to forage and meet people, but also have our staff see and feel firsthand the products we brought into our restaurant. They were able to tell that story of their time on the farms and what they experienced.

Sustainability is a big word. What I wanted to do was, before I am done, to leave Hawai‘i a little better than when I first started doing this by investing in the future generation and supporting the farmers and local products. I always taught the staff that for every ending, there usually is a beginning, or in reverse, for every beginning, usually something has to end. This chapter, sadly, had ended for me. But, like I said in the ending of the Blue Tomato book, in a way, I hope I never find the blue tomato, because it is in that pursuit of the blue tomato, and what’s possible out there, that is where all the significant and meaningful things happen. Jokingly, I say, yes I am getting older, the restaurant closed, but I not dead yet.

Smooth Operator A woman with a familial vodka pedigree is distilling a rum with roots in the Philippines.

The result is an easy-tosip liquor with notes of banana, pineapple and caramel. bit.ly/hn-rum

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