MARTY AND DENALI SCHMIDT
Adventure Magazine’s tribute to two of New Zealand’s most respected climbers www.adventuremagazine.co.nz
In memory of Marty and Denali Schmidt On the 29th of July the news broke: Marty, 53, and his 25-year old son Denali were missing. They had not been seen since an avalanche hit Camp 3 on the 8,611-metre mountain. Sentiments have poured in from around the world at the tragic loss of these two experienced climbers. British climber Adrian Hayes has shared the following message from K2 Base Camp. “Our fears on the fate of New Zealand mountain guide Marty Schmidt and his son Denali - who climbed up from Camp 2 to Camp 3 last Friday as we all returned to Base Camp due to the dangerous snow conditions - was sadly confirmed last night when two of our sherpas reached Camp 3 to find it wiped out by an avalanche.” Although we all embrace the notion ‘They died doing what they loved’ no one ever sets out intentionally to put themselves at risk. Marty and Denali Schmidt were obviously well aware of the risks and calculated them with experience, knowledge and care. But the balancing act of doing what we love and the risk that it entails is often difficult and at times completely impossible. There is a quote that says ‘Time and chance happen to all men’ – whether crossing the road, riding a bike or climbing a mountain, sometimes being in the wrong place at the wrong time outweighs all the experience and knowledge in the world. The Adventure Magazine team sends its heartfelt commiserations to their friends and family at this tragic loss.
Marty and Denali climbing in the U.S.
“The deaths of a father and son is a tragedy in itself but compounded even further by the fact that Marty and Denali were great people that we all got to know very well in the close knit community of K2 Base Camp. They were very well known, highly experienced and extremely strong mountaineers, the last people many would expect to be killed on a mountain� British climber Adrian Hayes
Denali on the mountain he was named after, 2012
Marty at camp on Denali, 2012
Denali enjoying some downtime.
Marty clowning around on Denali, 2012
Denali helping a client on Denali, 2012
“I’ve climbed a lot of the world’s biggest mountains but K2 is the one I respect the most. I’ve been on it twice without summiting. I’m just called to it all the time.” Marty Schmidt
Denali, 2012
“When he spoke of his son Denali his eyes would light up with a spark and family was always number one in our night talks together.� Tip Rippel from Peak Freak Expeditions, long time friend and climbing companion.
“Sadly, at times the mountains do not differentiate between ability and experience, least of all K2.�
“Marty was incredibly proud to climb together with Denali and share his passion for the mountains with him - I was looking forward to meeting Denali one day here in New Zealand. Instead we have to come to grips with this enormous tragedy. I wish everybody who knew Marty and/or Denali strength to deal with this loss.� Daan Dijkstra, friend and Macpac Product Manager
Marty on Makalu, 2010
Father and son doing what they love on Denali, 2012
“And if these mountains had eyes, they would wake to find two strangers in their fences, standing in admiration as a breathing red pours its tinge upon earth’s shore. These mountains, which have seen untold sunrises, long to thunder praise but stand reverent, silent so that man’s weak praise should be given God’s attention.” Donald Miller, Through Painted Deserts: Light, God, and Beauty on the Open Road