Triburg | Summer Internship Document

Triburg/// A Project submitted to Department of Textile Design NID Ahmedabad Guided By Ms. Aarti Srivasatava Submitted by Padma Raj Keshri (S1511110) 2015

Department of Industruial Design National Institute of Design Ahmedabad

INTERNSHIP Triburg///, Gurgaon | May 2016 - June 2016

INDUSTRY MENTOR Ms. Jaishree Bansal Senior Designer Triburg Gurgaon

AUTHOR Padma Raj Keshri Textile Design | Master of Design National Institute of Design Ahmedabad

COURSE COORDINATOR Ms. Aarti Srivastava Coordinator, Textile Design National Institute of Design Ahmedabad

INTERNSHIP COORDINATOR Ms. Sujitha Nair Head - Industry, Placements, Students and Alumni Relations National Institute of Design Ahmedabad

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I am privileged to be able to associate myself with the renowned institutionz named National Institute of Design.

With due respect, I would like to thank our course developer for giving us an opportunity to experience the industry practically, before walking into it full fledgedly.

Guidance is something, under which one can do wonders. I would like to express my gratitude towards my mentor, Ms. Aarti Srivastava who has been a backbone to this compilation, without whom this project could not have been a success. I am grateful to Mr. Amit Ashtputre for helping me in keeping my facts and figures clear and guiding me at each step, which completely paid off at the workplace.

I would also like to thank my industry mentors, Ms.Jaishree Bansal and Ms. Irani Das, for confiding in me and giving me responsibilities in office. I’m sincerely thankful to all my colleagues at office, for helping me in adding that flair to my experience.

Padma Raj Keshri Textile Design Masters of Design

TABLE OF CONTENTS

01

02

Introduction

Brands Project

About Triburg/// Company profile Organisational structure Products Clients Departments

Jessica Simpsons Vintage America Blues Kenneth Cole LE | SOUK Nordstrom

Triburg/// As India’s leading apparel sourcing solutions provider, Triburg have helped global brands build and grow their businesses out of the Indian subcontinent 60 million garments shipped with 0.028% defect 70,000 samples developed last year 10,000 styles shipped annually.

Triburg was founded in 1980. Triburg provides sourcing services for product range in textile apparel, leather apparel, shoes, bags, accessories, Home products including soft and hard lines. It has over 33 years experience in sourcing. It sources over 35 million garments and 5 million pieces of accessories, leather and home products annually. TRIBURG is one of Asia’s leading textile and leather sourcing house.

• Three decades of industry experience with leading brands.

• More than 500 professionals, with a cross functional approach.

• Managing end-to-end sourcing services for apparel companies.

• A reliable framework that delivers consistently and accurately.

What Triburg do We provide 360-degree solutions in design, product development, cost negotiations, manufacturing, quality, vendor training and logistics.

Training Center for Industry • Established in 2009, the Triburg Center for Learning creates and conducts customized training for vendors covering pattern making, quality, merchandizing and production management.

• Dedicated approach to learning through practical case studies • The Smart Merchant Program has been conducted in India since 2010 • Trainings conducted for large apparel manufacturers in China and the Philippines.

• Vendor training programs to attain international social compliance standards

TRIBURG///

They have dedicated teams specialized in products who focuses on the needs of every customers and service their needs. The teams are grouped under various divisions which helps them to work and coordinate with each other.

LOCATION • Headquartered in Delhi NCR, India • Seven regional production offices in India • Global liaison office in New York and raw material sourcing center in Shanghai, • Manufacturing management centers in Jordan, Bahrain, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka

• Three decades of industry experience with leading brands.

• More than 500 professionals, with a cross functional approach.

• Managing end-to-end sourcing services for apparel companies.

• A reliable framework that delivers consistently and accurately.

Apparel Menswear Womenswear Kidswear

Leather Apparel Small Goods

Accessories Scarves Jewellery Bags & Belts

Home Soft Goods Hard Gods

Products offered

Packaging Quality

1. Lingerie, Softlines, Sweaters, Swimwear, Outerwear, Accessories & made-ups.

Audit Failure Analysis

2. All types of Fashion — High Fashion, Casual, Semi-formal & Formal 3. All Customer classification — Infants, Kidswear, Juniors — Missy/Petite/Larger size/Maternity for women — Young-men, Regular and special sizes for men 4. Vendor’s Technical Abilities — High Level of sophistication including auto-cutting, state-of-theart semi-auto sewing, auto under-bed trimming.

5. Laundry and finishing equipment.

Triburg’s client.

5. Finance Manage finance for buying any new technology machines or any other kind of finance relating transactions.

6. Accounts Manage all the accounts related to employess, salaries, bonuses, promotions etc.

Manage every challan required for the samples and fabric when needed to move out of the company.

Manage accounts for the every visitor.

Departments of Triburg:

7. Travel

1. Product Development:

Manage travelling tickets and transportation for employees for the meetings with the buyer.

Arrange cabs for the buyers to visit their respective factories.

Design studio Concept and design Development

8. Fabric

Liase with the clients

New fabric Development Sourcing Liaison with Mills Quality

Analyze orders

9. IT

Vendor interface

Emailing on SMPT Server Key vendors Online EDI ready Scan Pack Compliant

2. Production

Price and delivery Liase with all process of production 3. Logistics 4. Quality

10. Triburg design studio Forecasting and Trend Analysis

Product Quality

Development of Original print artworks and Embellished concepts using in house artisans

Production Processes

Develop customer specific design range

Product Life Cycle

whole size range.

Meeting with buyers

Fit sample, size set sample making and approval from buyer.

• In this stage designer shows their creations, latest designs to buyers.

• On the other hand if buyer already had fixed design of a style and need few changes on it related to fit, fabrics or trims they discuss those thing with the merchandiser of the manufacturing unit.

Development of initial samples for the buyer • In this stage after receiving buyer’s concept or instructions on the new style, samples are made with available fabrics and trims.

Development of fabric sample, print and embroidery work • Fabric is developed/sourced as per the buyer’s requirement.

(For the solid color, lab dip approval is very important.)

• Other approvals such as print and embroidery artwork approval and color approval are done. It may be done later stage at time of pre-production.

Costing of garment (complete cost as well as manufacturing cost) • Merchants prepare cost sheet with details cost break up such as raw material cost, manufacturing cost, overheads and margin.

Pattern making, correction of pattern, pattern grading.

• Pattern master prepares first fit pattern, then re-develop pattern adding buyer comments and rectification on fit sample.

• Approximately 2-3 fit cycles take place.

• After fit approval pattern master grade pattern for size set samples only for specified sizes. Once order is ready for production they grade pattern for

• Samples are made in sampling department and sent to buyer for approvals.

• If sample is not approved or further work is recommended by buyer. Correction is done and resubmitted to buyer.

Approval of fabric swatches, print colors, embroidery design as per the CAD received from the buyer.

Production planning, Material planning and line planning.

• Planning is needed for material sourcing, production capacity, line planning.

Placing order for fabrics, trims, accessories and packing materials • Bulk orders for raw materials are placed.

Testing of fabrics and other raw materials • Physical properties are being tested for bulk fabric and trims. This can be done by buyer approved/ nominated laboratories or in-house testing laboratories of the vendor.

• FPT – Fabric Performance Test Pre-production meeting • Once pre-production (PP) sample is approved and most of the trims are sourced, merchants or production planning department conduct pre-production meeting with production team, quality team and sourcing team.

• All the important comments, procedures to be followed, dos and don’ts are discussed.

• Scheduling of PCD (planned cut date) and shipment date is announced to all teams.

Operation of Garments Manufacturing are given below in details: Design/Sketch It is given by buyers to manufacturers containing sketches including measurements of particular styles.

Manual/Computerized.

Basic Block Basic block is an individual component of garments without any style of design (without Allowance, Style, Design).

Manual/Computerized.

Working Pattern When a pattern is made for a particular style with net dimension regarding the basic block along with allowance then it is called working pattern.

Manual/Computerized.

Sample Garments To make a sample, this will be approved by buyer.

After making a sample, it is sent to buyer for approval to rectify the faults Manual.

Approved Sample

Making allowance with net dimension for bulk production.

Manual/Computerized Grading If the buyer requires different sizes, so should be grade as S, M, L, XL, XXL Manual/Computerized.

Marker Making Marker is a thin paper which contains all the components for different sizes for a particular style of garments Manual/Computerized.

Fabric Spreading To spread the fabrics on table properly for cutting Manual/Computerized.

Cutting

To cut fabric according to marker dimension Manual/Computerized.

Sorting & Bundling Sort out the fabric according to size and for each size make in individual bundles Manual.

Sewing

After rectify the faults, sample is again sent to buyers. If it is ok then , then it is called approved sample Manual.

To assemble a full garments Manual.

Costing

•Making Charged

After sewing we will get a complete garment which is treated with steam ironing & also several finishing processes are done for example extra loose thread cutting Manual

•Trimmings

Inspection

•Profit

Should be approved as initial sample Manual

•Fabric Costing

Production Pattern

Ironing & Finishing

Packing Treated by Polyethylene bag Cartooning

Manual

After packing, it should be placed In cartooning for export Manual Despatching Ready for export

Manual

Tech Pack Introduction: A techpack consists of multiple informative sheets that designers create to communicate with the manufacturer in order to inform about all the necessary factors and criteria needed to construct a particular garment.

Who prepares the techpack?

Originally, the techpack is prepared by the designers of the customer (brand). The style details, along with the sketch and measurement sheets are a part of the techpack provided to the manufacturer.

It may sometime happen that the brand doesn’t prepares a detail techpack but only provides with the image and the design in a style. This might be the case if a brand is experimenting with some new style or product. In such a case, the designers and the merchandisers at the manufacturing front go for techpack development.

Once the techpack for a particular product and style is frozen, it acts as a bible for production.

The product development merchandisers can then use it to prepare a prototype sample which will be the final sample that will be handled to production department for bulk production.

Components of a techpack The techpack provides the information on different aspects of the garment. It includes: • The detailed sketch of the garment/ illustration.

• Style name/code/number • Season name • Fabric details • Trim details • Fabric construction details • Sewing details and seam construction • Block pattern • Color ways • Embroidery details & placements • Print details and placements • Details of labels • Washing details • Finishing details • Details of labels to be attached along placements • Bom for tims • Grade rules for sizing • Acceptable testing and quality standards.

Role of triburg once the techpack is provided: • Study the techpack.

• Hand it over to sampling department with all relevant information.

• Seek step wise approval from buyer.

• Start with the prototype sample.

• Once proto sample is completed and checked on all parameters, start with bulk production.

• The techpack is then handed over to production department.

Techpack decision making: • The first techpack provided helps in preparing the fit samples.

• Useful in finding the suitable vendors.

• The details of the construction mentioned give a clear understanding in setting up the timeline. The more features it consists the more time it will take to execute the garment as it is.

• The testing will be decided based on the components used. Basically testing needs to be done before bulk production starts. The merchandiser needs to take a follow up on the garment and trim testing as the test reports needs to be presented.

• Minimums needs to be decided based on the order quantity.

• Tolerance percentage is decided depending on the style of the garment.

• Fit comments are received after sample reviews which again lead to the changes in the techpack.

Any changes in the techpack are reflected in costing too.

• The mocks and the digitals help in understanding the detailing and construction of the garment.

• Impact on yy (yield per yard) again depends on the construction of the garment.

Note- buyer should be informed on all the call outs presented by the merchants or in the factory, immediately, so that correct decisions and corrections can be done for approval.

Meetings The techpack forms a very important part of the following meetings:

• The fit technician meeting- it is done in order to decide on the fit approval from the buyer after the LR meeting. Once the fit is approved, official order is placed with the merchants.

• Once the techpack is finalized, another meeting happens at the factory which consists of production/operation team of the factory, the vendor merchant and the production merchandiser of the buying house. The techpack is then discussed thoroughly so that it can be used for bulk production without any doubts and issues. Any concerned call outs are noted and made if required.

• The tech team of the factory also uses this techpack if any issue arises with some aspects of the garment construction.

Time and Action Plan • It is the pre planning of time and action to be followed for doing each process in garment manufacturing.

• It is prepared to meet the delivery date.

• It is prepared and maintained majorly by merchandisers.

• Every organization has their own way of preparing time and action (T&A)plan Process • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

In store date NDC Date AC (At consolidation) Date ---10/20 (45 days) Shipment mode --- Sea PCD (Planned cut date)(-)45 days Fabric in-house (PCD (-) 7 days) Fabric ex mill date (fabric in house date(-) 7 to10 days domestic) Fit approval date (PCD (-) 20 days) Fit 1st comment (PCD (-) 50 days) Color approval/ assortment (PCD (-) 60 days) 1st color dip (PCD (-) 30 days) Color standard receipt (PCD (-) 50 days) Garment PO (PCD (-)60 or 90 days) Fabric Commit (PCD (-) 30-45 days)

RM Team : Key roles & Responsibilties • Fabric & trim analysis as per the requirement •Sourcing • New developments (R&D) • Potential mill allocation • Costing • Fabric testing • Fabric commit • Mill inspection (in coordination with compliance team) Fabric team works with the • Design team • PD merchant • Production merchant • Quality team With Designers • Need for the kind of fabric • Ordering fabrics for sample yards • Any update related to the fabric • Similar fabric used by other Teams • Collecting information- references regarding fabrics •Quality recommendation with PD Merchandiser •Providing fabrics and fabric options •Lab dips/ strike offs reports •Testing •FPT •Info regarding costing and lead time, quality and fabric details.

•TNA formulation With Production Merchandiser • Bulk order placement • Lot approvals • TNA formulation With QA • Fabric inspection • Cross checking of details

Design Team: Role & Resposibilities • Brand research • Study Mega Trends • Trend analysis • Street/ runway • Previous season analysis- sales, shelf life • Trend analysis – color, silhouettes , styles , fabrics, trims, details, surfaces, washes, finishes • Derivations- key concepts, stories, interpretation according to the buyer • Finalizing the concepts and specifications with the buyer • Building mood boards, color boards, client board, key looks silhouettes , details , initial sketches for each key story • Coordinates with the RM TEAM and sends them references for fabric requirements, sharing details with CFT • Source fabric for sample yardages with the RM TEAM • Design pack development • Coordinates with the PD TEAM and FIT TEAM for developing the Proto sample at the factory • Line review and Design development • Working on buyers comments

Technical Team: Role & Resposibilities Sample is the physical form of buyer’s specification of style, design and fit. Sampling may be in two ways.

1. Sampling after confirmation of price.

2. Sampling before confirmation of price.

A technician is a person who is responsible for fitting of the garment in sampling stage. There are various types of samples that are inspected for fit and aesthetics by the tech teamThey are also responsible to convert the design spec sent by buyer into technical spec to make the first sample.

After receiving comments on various samples like coordination samples, proto samples, feedback

on sample from customer is send to factory merchandiser/ manufacturer for making changes and proceeding with the rest of the sampling stage.

Product Development

In case it is felt that any novelty/ design embellishment is not feasible for bulk order production, it should be clearly communicated to the buyer and alternatives to such design works should be presented.

Steps of Product Development:

b) Fabric

1.Design Development: Operations

While presenting the fabric swatches for the design range to the buyer, it is essential to present the swatches in an aesthetic manner, such that it appeals in the look. Ranges of the standard qualities ordered by the Buyer should be ideally presented along with new fabrics (if possible) that can be applicable in the trend.

• Buyer sends design folders with sketches of garments, colors and inspirations, co-ordinates, images of inspired garment/collection/labels.

• Based on the information given by buyer and understanding the trends, sample garments are to be made on the basis of seasons, shapes and silhouettes.

• Roles and Responsibility: Design Team and Design Co-ordinators.

• Important: All designs to be developed according to the buyer’s instructions are always needed to be original and unique in its own way, such that an entire line range could be developed from the collection.

2. Developing Mock Samples Once designs are developed from the Buyer’s instructions, mock samples are prepared and sent to buyer for their approval. Approval of the mock sample plays a vital role in securing the order, because it is at the mock sample stage the buyer chooses his/her agent and vendor to work with.

Thus the development of Mock Sample is followed meticulously following every details mentioned by the Buyer such that it is a successful presentation.

Important aspects of the Mock Sample: a) Design Textures, pleats, embellishments, embroidery and all other novelties should be ideally designed and beautifully presented such that it gives a clear idea to the Buyer about the design presentation.

c) Trims Trims should not be ignored while developing the Mock Sample because in certain trends and ranges, trims can add a different edge and attitude to the garment. It is thus very crucial to identify the correct trims and their application in the range.

• Roles and Responsibility: Product Development Merchant • Important: It is very crucial for the PD merchant to ensure that the first mock sample of the line range is received by the buyer within the said time period avoiding any possible delay.

3. Developing Tech Pack Tech pack or technical package is a complete set of technical information and instructions that is required to develop a product. It includes all details that re important for the commencement of production of a product.

The whole point of creating a tech pack is to help manufacturers create an accurate sample as per the requirement of the buyer.

Components of Tech Pack: i. Flat Sketch/ Technical Sketch of Garment ii. General Commercial and Organizational information

iii. Fabric Details iv. Measurements v. Grading Sheets/ Size Set Chart vi. Construction Details vii. Embellishment/Novelty details viii. Trims Details • Key decisions to be taken from components of Tech Pack: o As soon as the tech pack is received, it is important to identify the correct vendors for sourcing of raw materials. o The Tech Pack should be circulated among all CFTs to ensure smooth run of operations. o To achieve the target and quality of the final product, it is essential to note each and every component of the product in detail. o To prepare the Time and Action Calendar, without which no order can be met with smooth success. o To initiate preparation for all the different testing that are to be done to make it an acceptable final product for the buyer. o To see if any Fabric Value Addition is likely to cause Shrinkage in the fabric, and if so Call out to the Buyer immediately. o Minimums cost is necessary to be set and decided. o Start and plan the development of several preproduction samples, which would help in finalising the order with the buyer.

All important aspects that requires Buyer’s attention and approval should be Called Out as early as possible to avoid any unnecessary delay in the development of Proto Samples.

• Roles and Responsibility: Technical Team and Sampling Merchant • Important: It is necessary to follow the Tech Pack closely and start off with the development of

Samples so as to ensure the Tech Pack could be closed by the shipment of sample within a period of 45-50 days.

4. Developing Samples Sample development as soon as the receipt of the Tech Pack is very important to ensure that the buyer is not delayed in his/ her approval of the order and also forms a good idea of the agency.

• Types of Samples and their importance: First Fit Sample: First fit sample is prepared as soon as the measurement char is received from the tech pack.

It is always necessary to prepare the first fit sample to ensure correct fitting in the final end product and also to observe and difficulties that could be met with to attain the desired fit.

In case of development of the fit samples, it is always necessary to develop the samples in the actual fabric, because fabrics may behave differently according to their types. Making and sending of the Fit Sample is most important because it is the sample that goes through maximum modifications and revisions as per the recommendations of Buyer, hence they are also called Revision Samples.

Every change that is advised and instructed by buyer should be right away updated in the Tech Pack and a copy of the updated Tech Pack is to be sent to every individual involved in the project.

Also any changes in the fit that could affect the final costing in the end product should be correctly calculated and communicated to buyer accordingly.

It is important to note that without further approval from buyer, the order would not proceed. Thus negotiation and fit comments should be approved and closed within the time period of three months, to ensure smooth run of production.

Second Fit Sample: All changes instructed in the First Fit Comments by buyer are closely followed to prepare the Second

Fit sample. It is always the target of us to achieve buyer’s approval in the second fit, such that commencement of bulk production could be started without any delay.

All Complicated Pre-Fits are necessary to be completed within a period of 14 days.

Size Set Sample: Size Set Samples are samples of garments made in every size of the order following the graded sheet and the measurements. It is necessary to make the size set samples to ensure that all sizes of the order are being correctly done and in correct fitting when tried on models.

Garments should not loose their aesthetic appeal because of the size differential. Also, grading is a mathematical formula and it defines the spec sheet.

Any variations/ deviations should be recorded and clarified with buyer before proceeding.

Important: Any deviation from the graded size spec should be called out to Buyer immediately.

Pre-Production Sample: Pre-Production Sample is the final sample that is to be made to get final approval from buyer and confirm on the order, because approval of PP Sample is the final contract between Factory and Triburg.

Hence PP Sample is needed to be exact representation of the final product such that it can be followed as a standard while commencing bulk production. It is followed for aesthetics, measurements, sewing instructions, fit, drape, handfeel etc.

Important: PP Sample is always necessary to be approved before the commencement of bulk production, because the approval of PP sample initiates all other operations related to the production. Any delay in the PP sample approval can also delay the entire process.

PP samples and GPT are sent together.

• Roles and Responsibility: Sampling Merchant/ PD

Merchant • Important: Development of every sample is important and crucial, because each one of them is followed by a next immediate operation that plays a very important in smooth run of production operations.

Following the Fit Comments: Changes in the Bulk Fabric order is to be done; and costing.

Following the Fit Comments: Garment testing starts Following Second Fit Comments: Trims are to be ordered.

Following the Size Set Spec: Changes in the mathematical grading to be done and updated in the Tech Pack accordingly.

Following the PP Sample approval: Start of Bulk Production Following TOP Sample: Approval for Bulk Shipment by Buyer • Cross Functional Teams in the Sampling Process: Designers/ Sample Developers > Product Development Team > Fabric Experts> Garment Technologists > Costing and Finance > Quality Control > Control and Testing > Sales and Marketing > Packing and Dispatch As soon as the order is confirmed and final contract between buying house and vendor is made, coordination for the next set of events is handed over to the Production Merchant.

Bulk Production To ensure smooth run of production operations, it is necessary to timely follow up all the production events and update all responsible teams accordingly.

1. Confirming Bulk Sourcing To start off production, it is necessary to ensure that the correct raw materials have reached the correct manufacturing unit, in correct ordered volume at the correct time period. Without the correct raw materials no production system can commence on time.

Roles and Responsibility: Production Merchant and Quality Auditor.

Important: It is the responsibility of the production merchant and the QA to ensure that all raw materials arrived at the factory are correct for bulk production. It is also important to ensure that all raw materials have passed the testings and control. For Fabric the FPT report is important and for all trims, the test reports should be approved and accepted.

2. Follow Up Crucial follow up of all production operations All bulk production operations are necessary to be followed accurately and timely so that bulk production can run smoothly. To follow up all operations include spreading, cutting to garment construction and finishing and final packing.

Roles and Responsibility: Production Merchant Important: Any quality issues should be addressed at a very initial stage as spreading and cuttng, and to be followed till the end of production to the final packing.

3. Quality Management Quality issues are always needed to be checked at every stage of production, to ensure that TOP sample and Shipment Samples are approved without failure.

Quality Management is also very important for holding the brand image as well.

Roles and Responsibility: Production Merchant and Quality Auditor

Important: Quality approval is necessary to be done

by QA, but it has to be updated and notified by merchant on time.

Quality Assurance The role of the QA team starts with the line review and ends at the final quality inspection stage which takes place one day prior to the factory-x date.

Line Review In the line review, sharing of all the designs in a particular collection takes place. This is done once the samples are ready.

All the precautions which might occur during the production, fabrics details and callouts, difficulties which might arise during the bulk production are mentioned in this review.

The Fabric Information Sheet (FIS) is prepared which includes the nature of the fabric, its earlier behavior, and the callouts which are to be given.

This sheet is documented 3-4 months before the season starts (15 days before PCD if it’s a new fabric).

The fabric is inspected by the fabric mill and the fabric store at the factory. In most of the cases, 4-point inspection system is followed. In this system, at least 10% of the total fabric of the received shipment must be inspected. Also, at least one roll of each color must be selected with additional rolls selected for inspection in proportion to the number of rolls received in every color.

File Compilation This compilation is done one and half months prior to PCD (Production Cut Date). This includes the final fit sample, final specification sheet as forwarded by the technical team, the testing reports, purchase order, last approved fit sample, lot card with actual fabric, wash recipe in case any washes are to be done, embroidery check list and layout, three piece pattern report, pattern, latest tech pack and the trim card.

Pre-Production Meeting The pre-production meeting indicates the final closure after which the bulk production starts.

No changes are made once the pre-production meeting is over. This meeting is attended by the QA, merchant, operations manager from the buyer’s team and the QA, merchant, pattern master, fabric manager, production manager, technical person, floor QA, IE manager, finishing and washing manager from the vendor’s side.

After the pp meeting, the size set samples are made which must be approved before the bulk fabric cutting.

Pilot Audit After receiving a start loading date from the vendor, the QA team performs cutting audits, embroidery audits and line audits (3-4 auditing rounds depending on the size of the order).

A pilot audit is also carried out by the QA team in which first 20-30 garments are inspected to ensure everything is in place and is carried out for each color. These garments are randomly selected from the first 150-200 pieces produced. The pilot audit is carried out 2-3 days after the bulk production starts.

Inline Inspection This inspection is done after the pilot inspection, at the beginning and during the bulk manufacturing process. The in-line auditor checks the raw materials, marker layouts, cut parts and the assembly of small parts to make sure they all are as per the agreed standards. The inspector decides the sample size depending upon the size of the lot.

Interim Inspection An interim inspection is done when the garments manufactured begin the finishing process. This audit allows the inspector to judge the garments visually, functionality and measurements. As a result, any defected piece will be improved at that stage itself.

This includes the visual audit and carton audit.

Visual audit allows the inspector to the appearance

of the garment. Carton audit ensures that the garments are labeled, pre-packed and packed on the basis of the purchase order and the buyer’s specifications. This also ensures that the garments are packed depending upon the packing list provided by the buyer.

Final Inspection The final inspection is carried out by the QA team 1 day prior to the factory-x date. In this inspection, the Quality Assurer randomly selects some pieces which are then inspected (the number of pieces selected depends on the AQL of the brand concerned).

Role of Merchandiser The merchandiser is responsible for taking the FIS (fabric information sheet) from the fabric mill and handing it over to the QA team. At the preproduction stage, the merchandiser must have all the details which are required for the bulk production to begin.

The merchant must have the line plan, finishing plan, fabric status, cut plan, approved preproduction sample.

A merchant while handing over the style to the production and quality teams, must ensure that the accompanying style file contains:• Buyer’s purchase order • Production and finishing plan • Final tech pack • Fabric inspection report • Fabric shrinkage report • Approved shade band • FPT report • GPT report • Pocketing/lining shrinkage report • Trim test report • Approved trim card with all the trims • Approved wash standards • Approved pattern • Size-set approval sheet •Folding and packaging approval and method

Logistics Logistics refer to the physical movements of goods from supplier point to receive point. Logistics team manages the supply chain in order to ensure the effective flow of goods, services and information.

Logistics deals with: • Material handling • Goods distribution • Freight and transportation • Export documentation • Safe delivery to the customer Export documentation There are basically 2 types of export documents: • Regulatory documents • Commercial documents- principal and auxiliary Some principle documents are: • Commercial invoice • Packing list • Bill of lading / airway bill • Inspection certificate • Certificate of origin • Bill of exchange • Insurance certificate Some auxiliary documents are: • Proforma invoice • Mate’s receipt • Shipping instructions • Letter to bank of collection Key operations in logistics • Once the po is received and confirmed, planning charts are prepared by logistics.

• WIP are supposed to be shared by merchants to logistics so that they get idea or order allocation within different factories.

• PO needs to be checked which includes the

scheduled date, order quantity and in store delivery date.

• The packing size ratio needs to be checked in order to decide the carton size and the no of pieces that can be packed in one carton.

• Needs to check the transaction mode- whether it is FOB or CIF.

Key Learnings: Color Evolution Evaluating and describing color and color difference results are crucial for communicating color to suppliers and customers.

What is Color?

• Psychophysical phenomena • Electromagnetic radiation • Due to photo‐chemical reactions in the eye • Visual experience independent of shape or duration • Spectral • Non spectral • Achromatic colors We can now consider our textile fabric as being able only to reflect or absorb visible light. Let’s now consider two fabric samples and analyze why one sample appears green, and the other one appears red. When visible light strikes the green fabric, all wavelengths of light except those that are green are absorbed. The green wavelengths are reflected and observed, and the fabric is said to appear green.

In the same way, when visible light strikes the red fabric, all wavelengths except those that are red are absorbed, and the red radiation is reflected.

The fabric is called red. This is a simple but true representation how fabrics exhibit color.

However, real world fabrics have many complicated interacting factors which contribute to the final fabric color. This is in part because the color of almost any textile product is, in reality, three dimensional. Texture, geometry, light reflectance characteristics, surface or fiber smoothness , and pile depth can have direct influence on the final shade observed. Many other familiar colored

objects, such as flat painted or coated surfaces, exhibit only two dimensional color properties.

Without the third dimension, the color properties of these materials are much easier to predict and understand.

Expert Evaluation of color: In garment industry, when an expert evaluates color, he/she does so in the following parameters: 1. L – Value lighter/ duller 2. C – Chroma Brighter/ duller 3. H – Hue redder/ yellower/ greener/ bluer • Modifiers : Slightly / Much • Viewing angle of color should be 45 degree to the eye.

• Lab dips are matched with pantone color • Values are given to color on a scale od 1 to 10 What is Metamerism?

Metamerism is a scientific description of a common colour phenomenon where two colour samples which appear to match under one light source, no longer match when viewed under a different light source.

Metamerism can only occur when comparing two objects; the colour of two objects match under one set of conditions but not under another set of conditions.

Spectophotometer A spectrophotometer measures either the amount of light reflected from a sample object or the amount of light that is absorbed by the sample object.

the three of them. This mostly is done through the e-mails, in which all the necessary files, information, follow-ups & details are shared by the buyer to the buying agents & the vendors. Urgent and smaller understanding conversations are conducted through phone calls as well as through voice calls.

Communication is needed by the: • • •

Buyer Vendor Internal team

There are few things that one must understand so as to make conversations with the buyer or the vendor, such as: • Using Hi/Dear to address someone & ending it with regards on a mail is ideal format for a mail.

• Professional & Corporate conversations are entertained on an e-mail, keeping it minimal yet providing all the details needed.

• Using personal contexts, slangs, abbreviations for mails are not preferable.

• Use 12 font no., highlight important things, mention dates, do not use exclamations, reply on the same day of the mail, avoid typos & missed spellings, re-read before sending the mail.

• Acknowledge people on the mails.

• Categorize your mails on the basis of a day, brand, date, product etc. to avoid a chaos of various emails in your inbox.

Embroidery

- using this device, there’s no scope of error

Types of Embroidery

- machine indicates the quadrant of the color

• By hand • By treadle • By computer (multi head) • Schiffli

Communication As continuous follow-ups are required between the buyer, the buying agents & the vendors, there is a need for a common communication between

Embroidery by hand

Advantages

yield per yardage than schiffli.

• • • •

Schiffli embroidery

Artistic look Grading is possible Multi-colour threads Best for small orders

Disadvantages • • • • •

Expensive Variation in embroidery Heavy rejections (7-10 %) High lead time (approx. 40 days) Mostly dry-clean

To gain accuracy the design is traced on the fabric using zinc oxide.

Machine embroidery Types of machine embroidery • • • • • •

Thread work Boring (holes) Sequin Chemical lace Applique Cut work

Specialized techniques • • • •

Dori Chain stitch Tape Ribbon

Advantages • • • • • •

Accuracy Consistency Good pricing Short lead time (15-20 days) Best for large orders Grading possible

Disadvantages 9 colours threads can be used on most machines Consumption calculated according to blocks. More

Advantages • • • • • • • •

All over embroidery Average lead times Best for large orders Price effective Consistent Scalloped edges Holes or boring possible Machine or dry clean

Disadvantages • • • • • • • • • •

Tensile strength less No grading No placement Mostly 1 colours possible Wastage of fabric (less yield per yardage, 5-10% wastage) Fabric consumption calculated as per number of full parts in 14 meters.

Large machines Difficulty in setting up machines Costing is directly proportional to size of eyelets Shapes not possible

Embroidery by Treadle Disadvantages High costing Discrepancy Advantages Any design Any number of colours Grading in embroidery Types of grading –Size grading –Space grading –No changes

Vendors submit a khakha with the size set for embroidery grading Types of Backing Material •Tissue • Butter paper • Water soluble • Random china foam

Role of Triburg in Embroidery • Input in understanding embroidery aesthetics, costing, technique, lead time, placement, quality etc.

• Check the information sent by the buyer: • • • • • • •

CAD Sketch Technique Fabric Information Placement Colours Repeat

Washes & Trims Trims There are two types of trims namely:1.Design trims 2.Functional trims Design trims are those trims which are added to the garment for aesthetics and do not have any function to perform. Functional trims on the other hand, are those trims which have a function to perform.

The various trims include threads, zippers, linings, buttons, elastics, main labels, size labels, wash care labels, herringbone tapes, fusing, rivets, hook and eye, sequins etc. All the things included in the garment other than the fabric are called trims.

The trim store is responsible for the trims. It is the responsibility of the trim store to source and purchase the trims. Once the trims have been approved for bulk, the quantity of the trims is verified by the merchandising department. The trim

order sheets are maintained.

Each category of trims are inspected on arrival against the approved trim card. These trims are checked for size, color, quality, damage and so on. Samples of each category of trims are also tested as per the set norms. Buttons are tested in the laboratory against the parameters such as color fastness, metal content and attachment strength. The test results of all the trims are filed.

The merchandiser has to maintain the approved trim card and trims test report. There are no fixed set of testing parameters which apply to all types of trims.

Washes The process which is used to transform the outlook appearance, comfort ability & fashion of the garments is called garment washing. A washed garment is evaluated on the following three parameters:1.Appearance ( color loss, abrasion on the garment, seams of the garment) 2. Pucker level 3. Hand feel The various types of washes include:1. Normal wash 2. Pigment wash 3. Bleach wash 4. Acid wash 5. Stone wash 6. Enzyme wash 7. Caustic wash The basic two types of washes used as after treatments are:Softener wash A softener wash is applied to garments to improve the softness and smoothness of the fabric. The softener wash helps fibers relax and bloom giving the fabrics a thicker, fuller appearance, reduced shrinkage and soft hand feel.

Enzyme wash Enzyme wash is mainly used in case of natural fabrics like cotton. This wash is undertaken to desize the fabric and improve the hand feel of the garments. Another important reason for enzyme washing is to impart a faded or worn look to the garments. This is because the enzymes used in the process can remove color from the garments.

In washing, there are four important elements that effect the final outcome:1. Time or duration for which the wash is undertaken 2. Temperature at which the garments are washed 3. Chemicals used in the washing process 4. Mechanical action undertaken A washed and an unwashed sample is received.

The idea behind these samples is to achieve the same effect. Color matching is not required.

The seam present in the actual garment is to be necessarily present in the swatch so that the effect of washing on the seams can be analyzed.

The seams are effected differently due to the washing as compared to the rest of the fabric because bulk fabric is involved at the seams. The same wash will create a more pronounced effect in case of darker shade fabrics as compared to the light shade fabrics.

Wash recipe includes the chemicals, temperature at which washing is to be done and the duration for which the wash is to be undertaken.

CLIENT

PAdma Raj Keshri National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad | M.Design | Textile Design | 2015 National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bangalore | B.Design | Knitwear Design |2013 Mob: +91-9036939773 | Email:padmaraj.2007@gmail.com | Portfolio: www.behance.net/prk