PAF MAGAZINE COPENHAGEN
WINTER 2011
ISSUE # 06
WINTER YOU KNOW WE´RE IN RECESSION WHEN FASHION TIGHTENS IT’S BELT
Photo: NINA GARCIA / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
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PAFmagazine is an online Magazine about Photos And Fashion Editor: Michael Maximillian Hermansen Contact: info@pafmagazine.com Submission Enquiries: info@pafmagazine.com Advertise In PAFmagazine: info@pafmagazine.com _________________________________________________________ New Issue 4 times a year. E-mail: info@pafmagazine.com Website: pafmagazine.com
LINDITA by MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
INSTAGRAM: INSTAGRAM.COM/PAFMAGAZINE
2011
LINDITA by MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
CONTENTS LONGING FOR SUMMER
YDE
by Philipp Jelenska
by Michael Maximillian Hermansen
page 006
page 018
BLACK SWAN
MARGIT BRANDT
by Philipp Jelenska
by Michael Maximillian Hermansen
page 044
page 054
WINTER WARDROBE
VERONICA B. VALLENES
by Michael Maximillian Hermansen
by Michael Maximillian Hermansen
page 080
page 094
MAKE UP YOUR MIND
BALENCIAGA
page 104
page 116
by Carina Jahn
WEAR KNITWEAR
by Balanciaga
ACNE
by Michael Maximillian Hermansen
by Acne
page 156
page 180
ON THE CEMETERY
LIVING LIGHTLY
by Holly Broomhall
by Mette Strømgaard Dalby
page 190
page 204
Longin
g for
S u m m e r
Photographer: Philipp Jelenska / philippjelenska.com Makeup/hair and Styling: Christopher Koller / kollerchristopher.com Model: Nika @ Ph Models
I´M SKINNIER THAN YOU, THATS WHY I MADE IT
LINDITA by MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
Photo: NINA GARCIA / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
YDE Fall / Winter 2011-2012 PHOTOGRAPHER: MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
IT’S PERFECTLY FINE IF YOU CAN’T FIND YOUR RIGHTS IN THE CONTRACT. THEY´RE NOT THERE
LINDITA by MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
Photo: Stimulus Respond Magazine / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
BLACK SWAN Photographer - PHILIPP JELENSKA / philippjelenska.com
Makeup/hair and Styling - CHRISTOFFER KOLLER / kollerchristopher.com Model - BLACK SWAN @ Ph Models
SHE WAS NATURALLY INCLINED TO LOOK GOOD SURROUNDED BY S-CLASS
LINDITA by MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
Photo: MODEL LOVE TUMBLR / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
Margit Brandt
Photographer: maximillian-photography.com
Fall / Winter 2011-2012
AN INSIDE JOKE WORKS TO BUILD COMMUNITY
LINDITA by MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
Photo: Midnight Charm tumblr / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
WE HAD A LITTLE CHAT WITH SWEDISH MODEL AND BLOGGER LINDITA ABOUT HER VIEWS ON FASHION PHOTOS: Kurdo Amin malmostreetstyle.se & Linditas own photos
How old are you? I am 16, but in February I´ll turn 17. Where do you live? I live in Trelleborg, Sweden. 30 minutes from Malmö. Why blogging? I love to express my self by writing, and to share my life as a girl who have two life´s , one at school and one while modelling. Where do you usually shop when you are in Trelleborg, Helsingborg, Göteborg, Malmö, Stockholm or Copenhagen? I don´t usually shop in my own town, I rather go to Malmö, because it is such a big city. I love to go shopping in “Zara”, “Whyred” and “H&M”, but I also like to shop unique clothing in a random vintage shop. What swedish brand/designer couldn’t you live without? That would be Filippa K! I like the simplicity that the brand has. Where would you go, if you should spend your holiday in sweden? That would be at my other house further up in Sweden, in “Småland”. I love it there, because it is very peacefull up there, and the nature there is awesome!
Who is your favourite designer internationally? I really like Vivianne Westwood and Alexander MQqueen, but something more wearable is Phillip lim. I wore my Vivianne Westwood jacket almost everyday this autum, but my Amexander MQqueen dress have I only had once on a party. What do you like to wear in the winter? A blue knitted sweater, a white shirt underneath, black/grey jeans, black shoes, a big black bag and the hair in a tight ponnytail. On top of that I would wear a fur jacket and a Givency scarf. What should a guy wear in the winter? Guys ussually don´t wear makeup, and in the winter it´s easy to look grey. That´s why I would prefeer something with colors! Some light dark jeans, knitted sweater´s in different colours and you are ready to go out! Which model do you admire if any? Frida Gustavsson (Swedish top model), she is such a beauty and she is really good at walking down the runway! Linditas Blog: http://linditas. blogg.se/
SHE WAS REALLY SICK OF BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE
Photo: James Bort / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
LINDITA by MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
Winter A R D R O B E
photographer - MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM stylist - REBECCA SPENCER SØLTOFT make-up & hair stylist - GABRIELA UWEIS models - LINDITA sweden models & SOFIE diva models
Mink Coat - Safir by Kløve & Lønberg Shorts – Designers Remix Collection
Dress – Acne Gloves – Ganni
Hat – H&M Gloves – Stylists own Blouse – Isabel Marant Etoile Skirt – Isabel Marant Etoile
Shoes – Surface to air Jumpsuit – Tabernacle Twins
Jacket – Acne
Furblouse – Alice+Olivia Shorts – Designers Remix Collection Gloves – Stylists own Stockings – Stylists own
Jeans – Helmut Lang Blouse – Helmut Lang Bracelet – Yvonne Koné
Dress – Helmut Lang Scarf – Stella McCartney Bracelets – Yvonne Koné
SHE WAS LERNING THE THIN LINE BETWEEN PRIDE AND EMBARRASMENT
LINDITA by MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
Photo: Vidavaleria / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
Copenhagen
Fashion Week
FALL / WINTER 2011-2012 PHOTOGRAPHER: MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
MY LAST STYLIST... I ATE HIS LIVER WITH SOME FAVA BEANS AND A NICE CHIANTI
LINDITA by MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
Photo: Go Backstage Blog / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
MAKE-UP YOUR MIND
Photographer: Carina Jahn / carina-jahn.de
Photographer: Carina Jahn - carina-jahn.de Makeup & Hair: Frauke Bergemann-Gorski - bergemann-gorski.com Model: Sami H. - imm-models.com
ONCE THEY STICK A PONY UP YOUR ASS YOU SHOULD CALL IT QUITS
LINDITA by MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
Photo: Gravure Magazine / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
BALEN Photos: BALENCIAGA
A/W 2011-2012
NCIAGA
WHEN IT COMES TO CHANEL, THERE IS NO EXIT OPTION
ASTA by MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
Photo: Markus Bollingmo / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
blouse - GUรฐRUN & GUรฐRUN
WEAR KNIT WEAR
necklace by - LISBETH NORDSKOV
PHOTOGRAPHER: MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM STYLING: MICHAEL MAXIMILLIAN HERMANSEN MAKE-UP & HAIR STYLIST: ANGELICA SCHUBERT MODEL: ASTA @ SCOOP MODELS
sweater - GUรฐRUN & GUรฐRUN
blazer - BLLACK NOIR skirt - GUรฐRUN & GUรฐRUN necklace - LISBETH NORDSKOV
dress - GUรฐRUN & GUรฐRUN
ring by - LISBETH NORDSKOV
necklace by - LISBETH NORDSKOV
sweater - GUรฐRUN & GUรฐRUN
dress - GUรฐRUN & GUรฐRUN necklace by - LISBETH NORDSKOV
necklace by - LISBETH NORDSKOV blouse - VERONICA B. VALLENES pants - FILIPPA K shoes - BIANCA
sweater - GUรฐRUN & GUรฐRUN
bag - WHYRED
All jewelries by Lisbeth Nordskov / lisbethnordskov.dk
FASHION TECHNOLOGY OWES ECOLOGY AN APOLOGY
Photo: Kevin Tachman / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
ASTA by MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
ACNE
AW 2011-2012 PHOTOS: ACNE
EVERYONE FEELS BLESSED TO WORK IN THE INDUSTRY WHERE PEOPLE HAVE SO MUCH FUN
Photo: Purple Magazine / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
LINDITA by MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
ON THE CEMETERY Photographer - HOLLY BROOMHALL / hollybroomhall.4ormat.com model - GEMMA / select models
Model: Gemma Steele Stylist: Laurent Richer Hair and Makeup: Kate O’Reilly
Nude shirt - Max Mara Light brown chiffon sleeve biker jacket - House of Frazer Shoes - Newlook
One shoulder rose silk dress - Anouska G Pearls - Orelia topshop
Ivory Hercules dress - Aqua Pearl Neckless - Orelia topshop White Gloves - Topshop
Chiffon butterfly dress - Topshop Neckless - Topshop Shoes - stylists own
Orange Fleetwood Maxi dress - Aqua Neckless - Topshop Shoes - Newlook
Oversized chiffon blouse pastel pink - Label Lab fur - stylist own
LINDITA by MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
MILITARY USE OF CHILDREN DENIES THEM CHILDHOOD AND SUBJECTS THEM TO VIOLENCE
Photo: Model Love Tumblr / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
LIVING LIGHTLY
Sustainable Fashion In December 2011 the Danish Minister for the Environment Mrs Ida Auken (photo right) invited the press to participate when she speaked at the presentation of Kolding Design Schools new sustainable clothing line “Living Lightly” in the Ministrys Courtyard. Minister Ida Auken wants greater focus on sustainability in the clothing production. The Ministry of Environment has developed a manual to Danish companies on how they get their suppliers to produce more sustainably, for example by turning down the water and chemical consumption. METTE STRØMGAARD DALBY HEAD OF DEVELOPMENT, KOLDING SCHOOL OF DESIGN PHOTOS: Sacha Maric, Kolding School of Design, maximillian-photography.com
Kolding School of Design has a long tradition of working with sustainable fashion and the development of sustainable materials dating back to the time when it had not yet become “comme il faut” to speak about CSR, FSC, Code of Conduct, etc. The school’s endeavour concerning sustainability is based on our efforts to educate the designers of tomorrow to assimilate sustainability as a mindset, just as industry will require them to bring a sustainable approach to their designs. Kolding School of Design profoundly believes that a sustainable strategy can – and must – be part of efforts to solve global problems relating to lack of resources, poor working conditions, and pollution. For that reason, we welcome the focus on sustainability and CSR that we have witnessed in recent years: We appreciate the fact that the number of players influence the degree of impact. And since the world is very much controlled by economic interests, the degree of impact depends on the ability of companies to produce sustainable products that generate positive bottom line figures. In this game we are merely a small design school with great ambitions.
However, our level of ambition and our desire to positively influence industry were what made us establish The Laboratory for Design, Innovation and Sustainability in 2008. The Laboratory provides a space for our professional designers and teachers to experiment and develop the field of sustainability. The venture has already resulted in a series of publications dealing with sustainability, summing up the school’s longrunning work and taking the topic one step further. Hence, being nominated for this year’s annual ethics award at DANSK FASHION AWARD gives us great pride because it means that our efforts in the area of sustainability have not gone unnoticed. The moral of the story is that first and foremost, you must stay focused on what you believe in and train yourself to become an expert in your field. Once you have created this platform, you have the chance to convince others of the importance of what you are doing. The present publication represents our continued efforts to develop the field of sustainability, and certainly, we hope that it will inspire the business community as well as contemporary and future designers.
KOLDING SCHOOL OF DESIGN AND SUSTAINABILITY The fashion and textile industry is one of the most polluting industries on the Planet. Therefore, it is crucial that we start to change the way we think about consumption as well as our consumption habits. Sustainable fashion is a defining issue for Kolding School of Design. We believe that design represents part of the solution to the massive environmental and resource challenges currently facing us. Design and design thinking can be used to create new communication and production methods that can help change our approach to production and consumption. Design can generate new materials, new combinations of materials, and new products. At Kolding School of Design we educate fashion and textile designers who possess outlook and insight; designers that dare and do make a difference in the (fashion) world. In her book Sustainable Fashion and Textiles – Design Journeys, British Designer and Researcher Kate Fletcher makes the incisive point: “Business as usual. Or more to the point, fashion as usual is not an option”. Sustainability is no longer merely an ideology. It is a necessity. For many years, this great idea has been inherent at Kolding School of Design. Apart from integrating sustainability in the teaching, the school set up The Laboratory for Design, Innovation and Sustainability in 2008. The Laboratory represents an innovative space for conducting experiments. Here, education, industry and cultural institutions
gather to create innovative ideas using design as their tool. The Laboratory helps ensure that the ideas and values of design are disseminated to and become embedded in the business community that awaits our designers.
SUSTAINABLE ACTIVITIES AND INVESTIGATIONS The Laboratory explores issues relating to sustainability. In the field of fashion we zoom in on ethical and sustainable fashion. The Laboratory is a partner in the Fashion Zone; an ”experience zone” set up by the Danish Ministry of Economic and Business Affairs with the aim of creating economic and responsible growth within the fashion industry. Since the start-up in 2008, the Laboratory has organised a number of activities relating to sustainable fashion: International seminars, after hours seminars, educational programmes, exhibitions, and master classes for students, institutions and companies. The book LAB 2008-2010 depicts the many and various sustainability activities organised by the Laboratory. The book can be downloaded on the Kolding School of Design website www.designskolenkolding.dk where you will also find the additional Laboratory publications on sustainable fashion. These are Sustainability in the Design Process1 dealing with methodology and material skills in the teaching of fashion and textiles and Sustainable Fashion – Issues to be Addressed focusing on the problems, potentials, and perspectives of sustainable fashion and the role of the designer in this context.
KOLDING SCHOOL OF DESIGN AND SUSTAINABILITY The fashion and textile industry is one of the most polluting industries on the Planet. Therefore, it is crucial that we start to change the way we think about consumption as well as our consumption habits. Sustainable fashion is a defining issue for Kolding School of Design. We believe that design represents part of the solution to the massive environmental and resource challenges currently facing us. Design and design thinking can be used to create new communication and production methods that can help change our approach to production and consumption. Design can generate new materials, new combinations of materials, and new products. At Kolding School of Design we educate fashion and textile designers who possess outlook and insight; designers that dare and do make a difference in the (fashion) world. In her book Sustainable Fashion and Textiles – Design Journeys, British Designer and Researcher Kate Fletcher makes the incisive point: “Business as usual. Or more to the point, fashion as usual is not an option”. Sustainability is no longer merely an ideology. It is a necessity. For many years, this great idea has been inherent at Kolding School of Design. Apart from integrating sustainability in the teaching, the school set up The Laboratory for Design, Innovation and Sustainability in 2008. The Laboratory represents an innovative space for conducting experiments. Here, education, industry and cultural institutions gather to create innovative ideas using design as their
tool. The Laboratory helps ensure that the ideas and values of design are disseminated to and become embedded in the business community that awaits our designers.
SUSTAINABLE ACTIVITIES AND INVESTIGATIONS The Laboratory explores issues relating to sustainability. In the field of fashion we zoom in on ethical and sustainable fashion. The Laboratory is a partner in the Fashion Zone; an ”experience zone” set up by the Danish Ministry of Economic and Business Affairs with the aim of creating economic and responsible growth within the fashion industry. Since the start-up in 2008, the Laboratory has organised a number of activities relating to sustainable fashion: International seminars, after hours seminars, educational programmes, exhibitions, and master classes for students, institutions and companies. The book LAB 2008-2010 depicts the many and various sustainability activities organised by the Laboratory. The book can be downloaded on the Kolding School of Design website www.designskolenkolding.dk where you will also find the additional Laboratory publications on sustainable fashion. These are Sustainability in the Design Process1 dealing with methodology and material skills in the teaching of fashion and textiles and Sustainable Fashion – Issues to be Addressed focusing on the problems, potentials, and perspectives of sustainable fashion and the role of the designer in this context.
LIVING LIGHTLY – A SUSTAINABLE COLLECTION Kolding School of Design’s approach to working with sustainable fashion is comprehensive and versatile, and significant knowledge has been produced during the time the school has dealt with the subject. Now, it is time to gather the threads, take stock and round off. We mark this by presenting a sustainable collection which embodies the knowledge about sustainable fashion which we have been able to generate and accumulate through years of research, teaching and collaboration. The collection is called Living Lightly and is in other words Kolding School of Design’s suggestion for sustainable fashion anno 2011. Living Lightly is the end-result of an artistic development project carried out by Fashion Designers Mia Kappelgaard and Louise Stubkjær Sørensen as well as Technical Designer Rikke Stetter during a period of 12 weeks in spring and summer of 2011. The project was carried out under the auspices of the Laboratory for Design, Innovation and Sustainability, in interaction with the Fashion Zone.
MULTIPLE ANGLES OF APPROACH – MAKE YOUR CHOICE! Sustainability is a wide-ranging concept. In Shaping Sustainable Fashion – Changing the Way We Make and Use Clothes, Alison Gwilt and Timo Rissanen
state that presently, there are around 70 different definitions of sustainability. Hence, the subject can be approached from various angles. Whether the issue is materials, production or consumption there are aspects to consider and questions to contemplate. For instance, is eco-cotton better that synthetic polyester? Do the factory workers have sustainable working conditions? Which kind of dyeing method is to be preferred? How can the consumers contribute to making their use of clothes more sustainable – and how do we convince them to act accordingly? The many links that make up fashion and textile production combined with the countless definitions of the term sustainability makes it hard to navigate the field. However, sustainability should not be a limiting factor but an obvious and painless choice. In Sustainable Fashion and Textiles – Design Journeys, Kate Fletcher writes that designers and companies need to focus on the possibilities of diversity. There are no absolutes or clear-cut solutions when working with sustainable fashion. But there are angles. The issue is thus for designers and companies to dare venture into the complexity and choose one or a number of angles they believe will promote sustainability in their design. Each small step to endorse sustainability makes a difference – and therefore, the Living Lightly motto is ”The possibility that we might flourish”; Dr. John Ehrenfeld’s definition of sustainability as described in his book Sustainability by Design – A Subversive Strategy for Transforming Our Consumer Culture, from 2008.
FOR INSPIRATION AND IMPLEMENTATION
wastage, and a fashion-forward look. In this part of the collection we include Cradle-to-Cradle2 thinking and recycled materials.
Living Lightly was developed in order to show one way of managing the creation of a sustainable collection. It serves as a suggestion, an approach, which we hope will help demystify sustainable fashion and make the field more transparent and accessible to designers, companies and consumers. Living Lightly serves as “hands-on” inspiration. Several of the ideas can be realised instantly, and the collection is intended to be applied. Thus, we hope that designers and companies alike will be inspired by Living Lightly. This publication describes the development process from concept to the complete collection. We also zoom in on methods that are still in embryo but which, in the near future, can help to promote a sustainable approach. We have consciously chosen to use different methods for creating diversity in the clothing, thereby creating a collection that is marketable and visually appealing.
• The Consumption approach focuses on the use and consumption of garments. In this approach, we focus on elements such as durability, traditional techniques and materials, good craftsmanship, classic styles and storytelling; elements that bring qualities to the clothes which make the consumer want to hold on to them – preferably forever. We also use materials which rarely or never need washing. In relation to both approaches we have worked to develop alternative closing mechanisms in garments. Metal buttons, plastic buckles, zippers, and similar are all elements that can complicate the composting and recycling of clothes. We have therefore worked to create a number of styles which through their design and trim eliminate closing mechanisms thus making them more sustainable. Living Lightly is a sustainable fashion collection. It represents the result of several years of study of the concept of sustainability at Kolding School of Design. However, Living Lightly is not merely a sustainable collection. We hope that it also comes across as a collection that emphasises design’s capability to act as a catalyst for change – in this case greater incorporation of sustainability in the fashion industry. Sustainability per se is not saleable. But good design is. It is in this perspective that we send off Living Lightly. We hope that you will find the result useful and enjoyable.
PRODUCTION AND CONSUMPTION Living Lightly introduces two approaches to sustainable fashion: • The Production approach is about creating a simple design, both in relation to choice of materials and processing: Simple and innovative materials, few routines, minimal treatment of textiles, minimum
THEY TOOK HER CHILDHOOD, SHE TOOK THEIR BALLOONS
Photo: Behindtheshoots.net / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
ASTA by MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
photos by maximillian-photography.com
Stre
et S
Julie wears: Boots: Billi Bi Jeans: Cos Top: Second Female Sweater: American Vintage Cardigan: Muccia Leather Jacket: Bershka Scarf: Månestråle Bag: Marc by Marc Jacobs Earrings: Line & Jo
copenhagen december 2011
tyle
JULIE
photos by maximillian-photography.com
Stre
et S
copenhagen december 2011
tyle
JOSEFINE
Josefine wears: Shoes - Bally Leather jacket - Zara Skirt - American Apparel Blouse - Weekday Sweater - Banana Republic Scarf - Zara Watch - Marc by Marc Jacobs Gloves - unknown brand..
e l ty
S t ee
r t S
copenhagen december 2011
EMMA
Emma wears: Shirt: Vintage (from second hand shop ‘Prague’) Cashmere sweater: Eldon Cashmere (Purchased at a flea market in Barcelona) Earrings: Day Birger Mikkelsen Sneakers: New Balance Pants: From Urban Outfitters brand BDG. Leather Jacket: muubaa Small Bag: Vintage photos by maximillian-photography.com
Stre
et S
tyle
copenhagen december 2011
ANE
Ane wears: jacket: episode bag: flea market hairband: urban outfitters dress: monki shoes: Deena & Ozzy Rings from krakow, italy and india photos by maximillian-photography.com
e l y t S t
photos by maximillian-photography.com
e e Str
copenhagen december 2011
ANIKA
Anika wears: Black Down Jacket: Gap Maroon Button Cardigan: Urban Outfitters Ramones Oversized T-Shirt: Brandy Meville (clothing store in USA) Printed Tights: Forever 21 Leather Boots: Halogen (bought from department store Nordstroms in USA)
e l y t S t
photos by maximillian-photography.com
e e r St
copenhagen december 2011
OLIVIA
Olivia wears: Jacket: Vintage from Episode Sweater: grandfathers old Hoodie / dress: Moss Copenhagen Shoes: ROYAL Republiq Backpack: Vintage from London Hat: An old one
ASTA by MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
SWAN MEAT HAS BEEN REGARDED AS A LUXURY FOOD SINCE AT LEAST THE REIGN OF ELIZABETH I
Photo: Vidavaleria Flickr / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
FOR A CHANGE, ENIKO AND TERRY DECIDED TO SHOOT WITH CLOTHES ON AND OUTSIDE OF THE STUDIO. IT CAME OUT DULL
Photo: Gentlewoman Magazine / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
SOFIE by MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
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