SPRING/SUMMER 2 016
ISLAND CULTURE
Summer events, art, fashion, food, & festivals
CAMPBELL RIVER
COASTAL LUXURY
Gateway to the great outdoors
An Island home at one with nature
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MUSTVISIT RESORTS
ARTIST RANDE COOK
SUNROOMS
Redefining Native art
Bring summer indoors
PADDLER’S PARADISE How to get out and enjoy the ultimate West Coast experience
Broken Island Group, Barkley Sound
LI F E STYLE | R EAL E STATE | H O M E S | FO O D | TRAVE L
Telegraph Cove. dIScoveR the beSt kept SecRet on noRtheRn vancouveR ISland.
Nature Calls See a whale. In the wIld.
rated “excellent”
ReSeRvatIonS 1-800-665-3066
www.stubbs-island.com
Scan for your exclusive tour sneak peek!
CONTENTS • SPRING/SUMMER 2016
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Island Homes
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A West Coast Modern dream home designed to make the most of its Salt Spring Island setting. BY ATHENA McKENZIE
Island Culture From music festivals to fashion, boating excursions to golf, plus farms, cheese, and even a kombucha cocktail — this is what you need to know this season. BY CAROLYN CAMILLERI
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Living the Life ... One Resort at a Time The Island has some amazing getaway options. Here are five favourite resorts to put on your list. BY CAROLYN CAMILLERI
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Paddler’s Paradise Could the kayak be taking over from the canoe as a Canadian cultural mainstay? Perhaps. BY DAVID LENNAM
v i c t o r i a b c c a n a da
Serenity and wonder, it comes naturally. It’s all just minutes from Victoria.
new neighbourhoods are on our horizon. Bear Mountain is Canada’s preferred urban resort and residential community rich in culture and unique amenities. Life here offers residents the best of both worlds; an idyllic natural setting only minutes from the allure of Victoria. The resort weaves its way flawlessly between the rolling fairways of its Nicklaus Design Golf Courses and The Westin Bear Mountain Victoria Golf Resort & Spa. Both Cycling Canada and Golf Canada call Bear Mountain home, and you can too.
gated townhomes d townhomes d executive building lots d condominiums
REAL ESTATE ENQUIRIES: 250.391.6100 | BEARMOUNTAIN.CA/LIVEHERE
CONTENTS • SPRING/SUMMER 2016
20
Savouring Salmon Barbecued, baked, or cooked in a cast-iron pan, salmon is the iconic West Coast fish. BY MIKE WICKS
DEPARTMENTS 20
ON THE M ENU Savouring salmon BY MIKE WICKS
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CRE ATIVE WORKS Gentle rebel: Rande Cook BY JOHN THOMSON
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RE AL ESTATE The lifestyle you want BY SHANNON MONEO
48
HOM E DESIGN Living light BY ADRIENNE DYER
52
SPECIAL PL ACES Campbell River BY ANDREW FINDLAY
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BOATING Building your dream boat BY ALEX VAN TOL
IN EVERY ISSUE
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10 YOUR VIEW 12 ISLAND CULTURE 58 LOCAL FAVOURITE
EDITOR’S NOTE BY CAROLYN CAMILLERI
PUBLISHERS Lise Gyorkos, Georgina Camilleri
Carolyn Camilleri editor@saltmagazine.ca The 'Namgis Burial Grounds (above) and Alert Bay
Connect with Salt magazine on Facebook! Facebook.com/SaltMag
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Visit our website at saltmagazine.ca
EDITORIAL
EDITOR Carolyn Camilleri
CREATIVE-TECHNICAL MANAGER Jeffrey Bosdet
PRODUCTION MANAGER Jennifer Kühtz EDITORIAL DESIGNER Janice Hildybrant
CONTRIBUTING DESIGNER Jo-Ann Loro
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Kerry Slavens
ASSOCIATE EDITOR Athena McKenzie
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Anneke Feuermann
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Adrienne Dyer, Andrew Findlay, David Lennam, Athena McKenzie, Shannon Moneo, John Thomson, Alex Van Tol, Mike Wicks
PROOFREADER Vivian Sinclair CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Jeffrey Bosdet, Simon DesRochers, Jeremy Koreski, Josh Lewis, Josh McCulloch CONTRIBUTING AGENCIES All Canada Photos, Living4Media, ThinkStock
ADVERTISING ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES Vicki Clark, Lory Couroux, Cynthia Hanischuk
TO CONTACT SALT info@saltmagazine.ca
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ADVERTISING INQUIRIES sales@saltmagazine.ca
SUBSCRIPTIONS subs@saltmagazine.ca
ONLINE saltmagazine.ca
MICHAEL WHEATLEY/ALL CANADA PHOTOS
MY FIRST TRIP to the North Island took place not long after I moved to Victoria from Calgary. It was part research (I was writing for a tourism guide) and part holiday. At the time, I felt like I was making great strides in my Islander transformation. I had mastered the pronunciation of Ucluelet, was proficient at setting a crab trap, and had my very own gumboots. However, I kept getting place names confused, especially the “ports.” I knew Port Renfrew west of Sooke because I’d been there and a picture (and a map location) popped to mind whenever I heard the name. But I’d get muddled over Port McNeill, Port Alice, and Port Hardy without my notes. That Sointula was on Malcolm Island and Alert Bay on Cormorant was something else I couldn’t keep straight. I imagined everything beyond Campbell River was wilderness. One day, someone from Alert Bay called me to give me some updated information for the tourism guide. He started by asking me what I knew about his hometown and island — a little test to ensure the person responsible for writing the Alert Bay paragraph knew the basics. It was an awkward conversation but I felt challenged to learn more. I realized that until I went there, Alert Bay was just going to be a place on a map and some notes. So I went on my first grand North Island tour, visiting every location in that guide from Campbell River to Port Hardy, and, yes, Alert Bay, too. I discovered that bringing my rod and reel is a good idea on any trip north. I also learned I could leave my dress shoes at home, but not my hiking boots. While camping is a fun way to experience anywhere on the Island, I found that spending every second or third night in a hotel or resort suits me best. The size of the Island surprised me — it’s so much bigger than I had ever imagined. And North Island wilderness? I was blown away every single day of that trip. But mostly, I learned that being there makes a place real and distinctive. Every community on the Island is unique, with its own style, character, and even culture. To this day, when I think of Alert Bay, I remember the feeling I had when I saw the 'Namgis Burial Grounds for the first time. And, since that first trip, I never get the ports confused.
COVER A couple paddles ashore on Hand Island, one of the islands in the Broken Island Group, Barkley Sound. This area offers world-class paddling opportunities. Photo: Boomer Jerritt/All Canada Photos
Salt is published by Page One Publishing 580 Ardersier Road Victoria, BC V8Z 1C7 Tel 250-595-7243 Fax 250-595-1626 pageonepublishing.ca Salt magazine is distributed twice a year. Subscribe at saltmagazine.ca Printed in Canada by Transcontinental Printing. Ideas and opinions expressed within this publication do not necessarily reflect the views of Page One Publishing Inc. or its affiliates; no official endorsement should be inferred. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not the publisher. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in all or part, in any form — printed or electronic — without the express written permission of the publisher. The publisher cannot be held responsible for unsolicited manuscripts and photographs. Canadian Publications Mail Product Sales Agreement #41295544 Undeliverable mail should be directed to Page One Publishing Inc. 580 Ardersier Road, Victoria, BC V8Z 1C7. Salt magazine is a registered trademark of Page One Publishing Inc.
Extraordinary Properties! Unrivalled Experience and Expertise
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THE GREAT ESCAPE – EAGLE’S PERCH This exceptional West Coast retreat, Eagle’s Perch, sits high on a 3.5-acre wooded site with 180-degree views of the ocean and surrounding hills, offering a completely exclusive, gated escape into the West Coast lifestyle. Large stone pillars, exotic woods and massive beams all contribute to the breathtaking presentation. Guest quarters exist above the garage. This home is designed for entertaining with hot tub, water features and lush gardens. Offered at $2,988,000 MLS 357697
CLASSIC EUROPEAN TUDOR – OCEANFRONT MAGIC Almost 1/2 acre of beautiful high bank grounds extend to the ocean’s edge and provide the perfect setting for this 2009 European jewel. Panoramic views are showcased from multiple rooms facing Cordova Bay, San Juan Island and south toward Juan de Fuca Strait plus Mount Baker! The property enjoys an abundance of sunshine and offers luxurious living on three levels. It provides five bedrooms — two of which are master suites. Offered at $2,495,000 EXCLUSIVE
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DEREK TRASK/ALL CANADA PHOTOS
YOURVIEW
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Walk-in Rainforest Pacific Rim National Park is nature in the extreme. Walking trails like this one lead through ultra-lush coastal rainforest, then open up to the stunning vastness of Long Beach.
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ISL AND
CULTURE
FOOD DRINK MUSIC ART OUTDOORS HISTORY ACTIVITIES
True colours
JEFFREY BOSDET/SALT MAGAZINE
Artist Lauren Mycroft describes herself as “process driven.” “As I paint, I find inspiration within the canvas, then move in that direction as it naturally emerges, without knowing what the end will look like.” Years of experience give her clear perspective and the confidence to let her mood direct her creative choices. She calls mistakes “happy accidents.” / laurenmycroft.com
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Sylvia Therrien
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ONLY HERE ISL AND CULTURE
TRUE BLUE
ON THE EDGE Sustainably sourced, locally crafted furnishings from Autonomous Furniture Collective: sculpture you can use in your daily life.
After studying design in England, Eliza Faulkner returned home to the Cowichan Valley, where she designed and made dresses in a cabin. In the years since, she has gained recognition across North America and was named one of the Top Ten Canadian Designers to Know by Elle magazine. The culottes and top here are from her 2016 Spring/Summer collection.
The b6 table features a reverse live edge with a centre reveal. The top rests on black powder-coated trapezoid steel legs for a sleek, industrial look. autonomousfurniture.com
JEFFREY BOSDET/SALT MAGAZINE
elizafaulkner.com
AHOY! Swiftsure’s coming... From May 26 to 30, all eyes will be watching the waters off Victoria for the Swiftsure International Yacht Race. While sailboat racing has been a part of Victoria history since the 1860s, the sport really took off in the 1930s. Now boats come from all over the Pacific Northwest. Victoria Harbour will be bustling all weekend. To see the races, head to Clover Point. / swiftsure.org
Gulf Island art, up close
DOUG CLEMENT
That the Gulf Islands are home to all kinds of super-talented artists is well known. In the summer months, many of them open their studios for daily visits or special weekend tours. Watch for road signs pointing to nearby studios or pick up a map from a gallery or info centre.
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Top: Ravine, 36" x 48," acrylic
on canvas, by Donna Horn
Right: Celeste, approx. 26" x
15" x 14," bronze sculpture by Renée Sanden
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SUMMER MUSIC FESTIVALS
What better way to enjoy a summer weekend than by taking in the sights and sounds at a music festival? Here are just a few of many happening this summer on the Island.
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Sooke River Bluegrass Music Festival Sooke, June 17-19 Held at the Sooke River Campgrounds, this popular family-friendly music festival features a lineup of local and visiting acoustic talent, food, artisans, and instrument workshops.
sookebluegrass.com
2 Aboriginal Cultural Festival Victoria, June 17-19 Celebrate National Aboriginal Day with the Songhees and Esquimalt Nations in Victoria. Performances are scheduled each day from 11am until 5 pm and take place on the outdoor stage at the Royal BC Museum. Art displays and food vendors are also on-site. aboriginalbc.com/victoria-aboriginal-festival
3 Vancouver Island MusicFest Comox Valley, July 8-10 John Prine, Serena Ryder, 54-40, The Trews, Tal Wilkenfeld, and Matt Andersen are just a few of the many performers who will be drawing crowds to the Comox Valley Fairgrounds for this much-anticipated annual event. You can camp out or stay in town, but book early. / islandmusicfest.com
4 Alert Bay Seafest & Musicfest Alert Bay, July 22-23 Jazz, country, blues, and rock — the Alert Bay SeaFest has music for everyone and all ages, plus you get to see amazing Cormorant Island, known for its Aboriginal art and culture, scenic beauty, and friendly hospitality. alertbayseafest.com
5 Filberg Festival Comox, July 29-August 1 Filberg Heritage Park and Lodge in Comox is the beautiful setting for this arts, crafts, and music festival. It’s one of Western Canada’s largest outdoor juried art shows and has a worldwide reputation for excellence. filbergfestival.com
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FOODIE FARE ISL AND CULTURE
JEFFREY BOSDET/SALT MAGAZINE
ICE CREAM DREAM Kid Sister established its reputation by making paletas, Latin American fruit popsicles in crazy-good flavours like Wild Lemon Blueberry and Roasted Pineapple. Then they added ice cream, like Coconut Espresso and Chocolate-Dipped Ginger. All organic and housemade. Check them out at their new location in Victoria’s Fan Tan Alley.
FERMENTED + FABULOUS Kombucha may seem like the trendy kid on the block, but it has 2,000 years of history behind it. Cultured Kombucha boosts your health — and your cocktails. culturedkombucha.ca
Kombucha Cocktail Recipe courtesy of Hawk and Hen
• 2 oz Bulleit Bourbon • 1 oz lime juice • 1.2 oz simple syrup • 4 oz peach kombucha
kidsister.ca
SPECIAL ISLAND FARMS 1 KILRENNY FARM This Cowichan Bay Farm has been in operation since the 1920s and farming organically since 1988. In addition to fresh produce and poultry, Kilrenny Farm makes wonderful pasta and pasta sauces available at a number of shops around the Island. They also offer cooking classes. / kilrennyfarm.com
2 SACRED MOUNTAIN LAVENDER FARM Lotions, oils, hair products, soap, tea, chocolate, honey, sugar, linen spray — all made with lavender grown right here on this tranquil Salt Spring Island Farm. Self-guided tours, demonstrations, and the farm shop make this a great stop. It’s also a favourite for group retreats. sacredmountainlavender.com
3 PARRY BAY SHEEP FARM The people at this Metchosin farm chose to be farmers because they really like animals and want them to wander freely and happily being animals. The lamb, pork, and chicken raised here is favoured by many chefs and is available at the farm store and in select shops. parrybaysheepfarm.com
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The Maltworks Phillips Brewery, makers of some of the Island’s best beers, is taking “local” one step closer with their on-site malting plant. Twenty tons of local barley can be processed at once into 18 tons of malt. And they can store 100 tons of barley and 80 tons of malt. No wonder Matt Phillips is smiling. / phillipsbeer.com
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ISLAND EATERIES TO SAVOUR
1 The Livet, Victoria’s only custom charcoal grill, is opening this summer, and local culinary circles are pretty excited about it. Why? Because it’s Graham Meckling’s new gig, the creator of the much-loved Stage Wine Bar (Vancouver Magazine’s Best Restaurant Victoria 2015). Chef Benjamin Berwick is moving over from Stage Wine Bar. / thelivet.ca
Hilltop Bistro
adventure. Exquisite plating makes the food as beautiful to look at as it is to eat. An alluring cocktail menu and weekend brunch. / saveurrestaurant.ca
3 Il Covo Trattoria offers wellprepared rustic Italian cuisine in an ambience that’s homey and comfortable — if home is Tuscany, that is. The lunch menu is more casual, while the dinner menu has all the Northern Italian classics you want when you think “Italian food.” The beautiful, plant-filled garden patio is perfect for sunny days and warm summer evenings in Victoria. ilcovotrattoria.ca
4 Saveur Restaurant
2 Chef Robert Cassels has taken local ingredients on a spin through France at Victoria's Saveur Restaurant. You can order off the à-la-carte menu, but better yet, choose one of two seasonal Chef’s Tasting Menus (one is vegetarian) and let the masters lead you on a delicious
The Genoa Bay Cafe is a hidden gem, quite literally. East of Duncan, in the tiny community of Genoa Bay, this cosy, casual dining spot overlooks a very pretty marina surrounded by a cluster of homes. The consistently good, imaginative food is well loved by local residents, who may prefer their favourite restaurant to stay a secret.
genoabaycafe.com
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Chef Ryan Zuvich infuses his menu at Hilltop Bistro in Nanaimo with memories of his childhood and his world travels, creating dishes that are French influenced but with a distinctive Island flavour. The wooden building with wraparound veranda is gorgeous, warm, and welcoming. / hilltopbistro.ca
6 Locals Restaurant is truly that: seasonal, mostly Comox-Valley ingredients turned into beautifully prepared and presented dishes. They are proud of their suppliers and tell you right on the menu where everything comes from. The 1938 building is lovely, too, and used to be referred to as the “Old House” before Locals took over and renovated. Definitely a spot worth checking out. localscomoxvalley.com
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COWICHAN GOODNESS There is really no end to the goodness that comes from the Cowichan Valley. All those wineries, farm markets, food festivals, and culinary artisans ... like the Happy Goat Cheese Company, where milk from a herd of very cute goats is turned into luscious raw-milk cheeses like Mandolin, a smooth, soft cheese coated with rosemary, savoury, and thyme. You’ll find their cheese at Hilary’s Cheese in Cowichan Bay. Over at Deerholme Farm, Chef Bill Jones orchestrates Forest + Farm to Table Dinners and teaches cooking classes. His new Deerholme Vegetable Cookbook is a truly splendid addition to any kitchen bookshelf. thehappygoat.ca deerholme.com SALT 17
ON THE GO ISL AND CULTURE
Surfing Long Beach Lodge
JOSH LEWIS
Rumour has it, kitchen staff at Long Beach Lodge Resort get the odd call at work from their surfing friends looking for wave reports. That’s because when they glance up from the open kitchen and across the magnificent Great Room, this is what they see. The resort is known for its premium ocean-view accommodation, amazing food, and luxurious surf club, complete with spalike change rooms and hot tub. Lessons and gear rentals get you out on the waves in no time. longbeachlodgeresort.com
JEFFREY BOSDET/SALT MAGAZINE
WALKABOUT Pick a community or a neighbourhood, park the car, and walk. Simple, free, and easy, walking is good exercise and you’ll see so much more.
WHAT A VIEW!
It is possible to be practical and stylish at the same time. Ibex Merino Constance infinity scarf (line available at Robinson’s Outdoor Store, $45); TO9 women’s broad-brim hat (Tilley Endurables, $79); Topo daypack in olive cordura (Sitka, $200); Keen Presidio walking shoes (MEC, $129)
People come from all over the world to golf the Island’s courses. And admit it: Island golfers are a bit spoiled. With some of Canada’s best courses within driving distance, and most open all year round, you can choose a course depending on the view you want, like this one at Highland Pacific Golf Course in Victoria. Plus, you never have to put away your clubs — you just switch from your summer golf wardrobe to the winter version sometime in the later fall. vancouverislandgolf.ca
DID YOU KNOW?
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Orca moms rule the pods. Orcas have a matriarchal social system, with the oldest female as the leader in charge of teaching hunting and language (yes, they have a language) to the youngsters. About 80 orcas in three pods live in southern Vancouver Island waters and 16 pods live in Johnstone Strait and Queen Charlotte Strait in the North Island waters. Spring and summer are prime times for orca-watching in both areas.
Horses at School Queen Margaret’s School, an international boarding school for girls founded in 1921 in Duncan, is known for its quality education but, in particular, for its equestrian program. Girls from grades four to 12 can earn their Equine Canada riding levels and credits toward graduation. The program includes jumping, dressage, and competition, as well as stable management and pre-veterinary exploration. Students can even bring their own horses. / qms.bc.ca
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ISLAND BOATING EXCURSIONS
different in a good way.
1 Sidney Spit Marine Park, Sidney Island The sandy beach is dazzling, especially when the tide is out, and great for swimming. You’ll find mooring buoys on the west side of the spit, and there is a dingy dock so you can go for a hike on Sidney Island. For a fee, you can dock overnight.
accentinns.com Victoria * Vancouver * Kelowna * Kamloops
2 Montague Harbour, Galiano Island Many people consider Galiano the most beautiful Gulf Island, and in the evening, with mast lights sparkling, it looks almost Mediterranean. The large marina is well equipped and there’s lots to explore ashore.
3 Russell Island, near Fulford Harbour Good holding ground for anchoring, a little sloped beach, and an easy hiking trail around the 40-hectare island make this a pleasant destination. Interestingly, this island was settled by Hawaiians, who lived here until 1936.
Rebels against the ordinary.
4 Beaumont Park, Pender Island Pretty Pender Island has plenty of activities, like cycling, hiking, and kayaking, and you may want to stay for a couple of days and check out the spa at Poet’s Cove Resort. Bedwell Harbour has 15 mooring buoys, and there’s also a marina nearby.
5 Cowichan Bay
Many of the buildings in the charming village of Cowichan Bay are perched over the water on stilts and overlook the well-equipped marina. Bakeries, cheese shops, seafood restaurants, and art galleries are just up the dock.
Victoria and coming to Kelowna spring 2016
hotelzed.com SALT 19
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ON THE MENU BY MIKE WICKS
SavouringSalmon
JEFFREY BOSDET/SALT MAGAZINE
Since time immemorial, salmon has been a provider of life, indicator of prosperity, and staple food for Aboriginal people. It is depicted in art, the subject of legend, and food for bears and eagles. It’s the iconic West Coast fish, and its culinary versatility and species diversity mean you’ll find it equally delicious in a fine-dining restaurant, a street-side food truck, or cooked at home.
E
veryone knows sockeye’s the best,” says Art Napoleon, former tribal chief, bush cook, singer-songwriter, film producer, and star of Moosemeat and Marmalade. A Cree from northeastern B.C., Napoleon didn’t know much about salmon until he moved here and became friends with many Coast Salish people. Today, he cooks salmon much the same way as he would trout back home. “I like to bake it whole. I wrap it in tin foil and I put butter, onions, and whatever else in the cavity and wrap it up tight, throw it in the oven for 40 to 50 minutes at 350°F. It keeps all the juices inside.” Sockeye, with its deep blue-green back
“
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and silver sides, is probably the salmon most people seek out on menus and at markets. Between five to eight pounds, it has deep red, firm flesh and is rich in flavour. But sockeye is only one of five main species of Pacific salmon that we find in seafood markets, or that we catch. Pinks are the most readily available, making up 75 per cent of the B.C. catch. Averaging four to six pounds, they are the smallest species, and while some people spurn pinks for being a lesser fish, most chefs agree that’s unfair. As Dan Hayes at The London Chef says, “It’s fresh, ocean-run, sustainable, versatile, delicious, and so inexpensive — why aren’t we using more of it? People should open their minds and embrace pink salmon.”
At the other end of the spectrum are chinook salmon, also known as spring, king, or tyee. These are big fish. An 83-pound Goliath was caught off the B.C. coast a few years ago! Chinooks can be recognized by the small round spots on their backs, dorsal fins, and tails. For Dan Hudson of Hudson’s On First in Duncan, white springs are the ultimate salmon. “They’re a super, super fatty, firm fish. It cooks up better than any fish I’ve worked with. You get a nice golden crust on it when you cook it,” he says. “When you get them and they’re pure white, there’s nothing like it. It’s not something you can buy at the grocery store,” Hudson adds.
JEFFREY BOSDET/SALT MAGAZINE
PAN-FRIED SALMON WITH SASKATOON MAPLE GLAZE, NETTLE GREENS, AND WILD RICE Courtesy of Art Napoleon • 2 large salmon fillets with skin on • Juice of 1 lemon • 1 tbsp canola oil • 1/3 cup butter • 1 tsp salt • 1/4 cup maple syrup • 1 tsp liquid smoke (optional) • 1/3 cup Saskatoon berries or other firm-skinned berries • 1 cup blanched nettle leaves • 1 cup boiled wild rice Boil wild rice until it is almost finished (about 40 minutes). Blanch fresh nettles in boiling water for two minutes then strain, pat dry, and remove leaves from rough stalks. Squeeze some fresh lemon juice over nettle leaves and set aside. Heat oil in cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat then add salted fillets, skin side down. Nettle sea salt adds a nice touch if you can get it. Add half the butter to skillet for extra flavour. In another pan, heat some oil and butter over high heat and quickly stir-fry the nettle leaves as you would spinach or chard. Pull the pan off heat, leaving the nettles in. When the salmon is seared and starting to caramelize, turn over gently and cook the other side. Use any extra melted butter to baste the fillets. Add the berries, maple syrup, liquid smoke (if using), and remaining butter, and stir-fry gently next to the fillets. Once the salmon is done (do not overcook), immediately plate along with the rice and sautéed greens. Pour the berries over the salmon and the glaze over the salmon and nettles. Squeeze a bit more lemon juice over the fish and serve steaming hot.
WILD VS. FARMED Even in B.C., most farmed salmon (a.k.a. “cultured salmon”) is actually Atlantic — a species completely unrelated to Pacific salmon. Only 10 per cent of farmed salmon in B.C. are Pacific salmon. Pacific and Atlantic salmon cannot interbreed, which many people think is a blessing.
Hudson gets his white springs from Mad Dog Crabs in Duncan. Owner Scott Mahon says, “Only five per cent of springs are white and you can’t tell until you cut them open. They come from the Columbia and Fraser rivers and are mostly caught off Vancouver Island and the Queen Charlottes. They’re called ivory springs in the U.S.” Chef Kunal Ghose, former Top Chef contestant, founder of Red Fish Blue Fish, and now chef/ owner at Fish Hook, also favours chinook salmon because of the higher fat content, especially in the belly area, and because it holds up to just about any cooking. “I also love sockeye for its colour and the way it turns out when you make it into lox,” he says. Coho, also known as silvers, are favourites with sport fishers for their fighting spirit and with foodies for their firm, vibrant red-orange flesh, offering both flavour and good texture. They average seven to 11 pounds, but can reach 36 pounds. This is a fish that takes well to grilling because it doesn’t lose its vibrant colour. Probably the least favoured for eating are chum salmon, also known as silverbrite and sometimes less flatteringly as dog salmon. They have less fat than other species, which gives them a milder flavour, and range between 10 to 20 pounds. Chum are the preferred salmon for cold smoking due to their low fat content. COOKING SALMON
There are many ways to cook salmon: poaching, baking, pan-frying, broiling, grilling, barbecuing, or sous vide. One of the biggest mistakes people make is overcooking it. Once the white albumin starts to come up from between the flakes, you are at risk of overcooking it or you’re cooking it too fast. Following Chef Hudson’s advice will minimize it. “Depending on the thickness,” he says, “I try
to sear salmon two-thirds to three-quarters on one side to crisp it up so it’s primarily cooked on one side, and not too fast. Then I flip it at the last minute and baste it with a bit of butter and lemon, maybe add a few herbs. If it’s a really thick piece, once it’s seared, I’ll throw it in the oven for two or three minutes.” Hudson says sockeye and coho have their own cooking gauge. “You see the ‘cook’ coming up the side: it goes from red to opaque. Once it’s twothirds to three-quarters up the side of the fish I flip it, turn off the heat, and leave the residual heat to finish it off.” Pan-frying fish is a scary business for many home cooks. Hudson’s team doesn’t use non-stick pans because it’s harder to get a decent sear. They use stainless steel pans and make sure they’re good and hot. The secret is to not be tempted to move the fish. “It’s like any protein,” he says. “Leave it to do its thing and it’ll come off of its own accord. Get a nice hot sear, then turn the heat down a bit, but not so low you’ll stew the fish, not high enough to burn it.” Cooking on the barbecue is another test for many people, as the fish tends to stick to the grill. Here’s how chefs handle it. Ensure the barbecue is hot, but not at full temperature. If you’re cooking a fillet, slash the flesh side with a sharp knife and push lemon zest, garlic, and whatever herbs take your fancy into the incisions. Rub both sides with olive oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place the salmon skin side down and then leave it — really leave it. Don’t be tempted to prod and poke; just leave the blessed thing alone until the skin is crispy, about four minutes. Then carefully flip and cook the other side for a couple of minutes. No matter how you cook it, or whether you get someone else to cook it for you, fresh, wild Pacific salmon is the epitome of West Coast spring and summer flavours. S SALT 21
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C R E AT I V E WO R K S BY JOHN THOMSON
JEFFREY BOSDET/SALT MAGAZINE
A portrait of Tintin, the fictional young Belgian reporter depicted in the cartoon series by Hergé, isn’t what you’d expect from an Aboriginal artist steeped in First Nations traditions. Riding a bull in New York’s financial district doesn’t come to mind either, but Rande Cook bucks the stereotype. “If I have to do another killer whale motif, I’m going to shoot myself,” he laughs. Cheeky but original, Cook’s mission is to redefine Native art.
Rande Cook: Gentle Rebel N
ostrils flaring and poised to charge, New York’s iconic bronze sculpture, the Wall Street Bull, is a powerful symbol of capitalism and prosperity. “It was 2012 and I was taking a jewellery course in New York and I thought ‘what does New York mean?’ Well, consumerism, finance, Wall Street. I’m going to make a Louis Vuitton Native mask,” Cook recalls. So he carved a cedar mask, decorated it with gold inlay, slapped on the Louis Vuitton logo, and paraded around Times Square before moving onto the financial district and climbing atop the bronze bull. Fellow artist Luke Marston took pictures for what eventually became an installation. “I like to have fun,” says Cook, dismissing his homemade mask as a device, not a cultural artifact. Make no mistake: Cook is very clear about using his heritage to make a statement versus making a buck off his culture’s spirituality. “Somebody likes a mask. They take it home, they hang it on their wall, but they don’t know what that means. They don’t know the story behind it. It just doesn’t sit well with me. We have strong stories; we have metaphors just like the rest of the world. Can we not connect on an international level based on our stories and not based on the masks?” EARLY INFLUENCES
Cook grew up in the culturally rich community of Alert Bay. When he asked his grandfather to help him become an artist, his grandfather told him to get a sketchbook and “draw, draw, draw.” He credits fellow resident Doug Cranmer with pushing him beyond the obvious. At that time, Cranmer, a highly respected Northwest Coast artist, was already experimenting with streamlining and simplifying his bowls and totems. “He was right at his peak when I was growing up in Alert Bay,” says Cook. “It opened the door for me to evolve, still using traditional elements but in a contemporary way.” HOW HE CHOOSES HIS SUBJECT MATTER
Cook likes to mix genres. “I ask myself what can I do to turn heads and get people’s attention,” he says from his Bridge Street
Rande Cook, Ravenous, acrylic on canvas, 72" x 72"
studio, ready to jump into any medium striking his fancy. Pop art? No problem. Tintin is inspired by modern culture. With Ravenous (above), Cook adopted the European tradition of narrative painting. A fashion model in traditional dress tethers a raven, the Northwest Coast symbol of creation and knowledge. A wolf loiters in the background. An intoxicated Mickey Mouse lies slumped on the sidewalk. “It’s about the state of the world,” says Cook, lamenting the rise of personal gratification over spirituality. Yet he’s kept the figures two-dimensional, reflective of his Native roots. “There is no blending of colours. It’s very First Nations style,” he says. WHY HE DOESN’T LIKE THE TERM “TRADITIONAL NATIVE ART”
Cook insists he’s not a political artist, but Ravenous and an earlier piece called Idle No More, which criticizes the government for the Indian Act, definitely carry a point of view. Cook realizes deviating from what’s expected from him, that is, safe, “authentic” Native art, may alienate some people but he’s unapologetic. “There are lots of galleries who would say, ‘Well, we’d never carry that because it’s not traditional.’ They’re telling you that because that’s what they can sell. I think that handicaps a lot of artists because they have to pay their bills and a lot of them become stuck. There’s no artistic growth in that.”
LaTiesha Fazakas, owner and curator of Vancouver’s Fazakas Gallery, which is mounting Cook’s September show called Form-a-Line, admits it’s easier to sell what’s safe and proven but adds, “That’s one of the things I like about Rande: he’s willing to take risks and challenge the audience.” The show focuses on formline, the traditional Northwest Coast custom of outlining the subject in flowing, curving lines and then colouring it in. Always inventive, Cook reduces and simplifies the outlines, pushing them toward the abstract. “His art and his culture are for sale on his terms,” Fazakas says. “That means you don’t get to appropriate his culture; you get to appreciate his culture.” HIS UPCOMING PROJECT
Cook cherishes his Aboriginal roots — as a hereditary chief of the 'Namgis tribe, Kwakwaka'wakw First Nation, he travels to Alert Bay every two months to attend potlatches and immerse himself in tribal life, but he’s a man of the times, too, choosing to work with many styles and materials — paint, photography, film, you name it. For the past two years, he’s been working on a performance piece, which he plans to unveil in Victoria sometime in 2016. The goal is to take traditional origin stories and bring them up to date through fashion. “There’s going to be old-fashioned music with DJs mixing new beats,” he says. “There’s going to be a video put together with some old Edward Curtis images dissolving into modern images and then traditional thunderbird costumes will lead couture dresses out on the stage to show the progression.” It promises to be a mix of fun, fashion, and history — and yes, Cook is making a point. He wants us to recognize that Aboriginal art can be hip and modern and not stuck in the past. “I think for our culture to live, especially within our own people, we need to make it fresh,” he says. “We need to keep reinventing. I don’t want to be pigeonholed as an Indian artist.” And neither, he says, do his peers. S SALT 23
South Island
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Sidney, BC
The shortest distance to far away To fully experience all that Sidney and the surrounding region has to offer, you need to spend at least two days to soak it all in.
R
ich in history and surrounded in natural beauty, Sidney is the gateway to Vancouver Island. Complete with a vibrant boutique-shopping district (1) and many quaint dining options, you won’t know where to start. To complete the Sidney experience, Victoria Distillers, the only waterfront distillery on Vancouver Island, will open in May 2016. Complete with a tasting room and cozy lounge with sweeping views of Mount Baker and the Salish Sea, the distillery will impress even the most discerning libation connoisseur. The waterfront in Sidney offers many experiences, including the town’s sculpture walk (2) and historic walking
tour. Be sure to visit with local fishermen as you stroll down the iconic Sidney fishing pier (3). You can also hop on a whale watching (4) or guided kayak tour right from the waterfront with Sidney Whale Watching. If you want to visit the nearby wine region, you can do so on your way to the world-famous Butchart Gardens, only a 15-minute drive from Sidney. During the summer season, you can enjoy a host of special events, including the Sidney Street Market (Thursday nights, May to September), Summer Sounds outdoor concerts (Sundays in July and August), and the Torque Masters Car Show Extravaganza (August), just to name a few. Be sure to catch a show at Mary
distinctlysidney.ca
Winspear Centre (5), the art and culture hub of Sidney. Sidney is known as Canada’s only Booktown, so be sure to peruse the five independent bookstores during your visit. If you are bringing little ones, the Shaw Centre for the Salish Sea (6), the Sidney Museum (7), and the BC Aviation Museum offer special hands-on experiences not to be missed!
PLAN YOUR TRIP SIDNEY DESTINATION INFORMATION distinctlysidney.ca BC FERRIES bcferries.com WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES wsdot.wa.gov/ferries/ COHO FERRY cohoferry.com VAN ISLE MARINA vanislemarina.com PORT SIDNEY MARINA portsidney.com THE CEDARWOOD INN & SUITES thecedarwood.ca THE SIDNEY PIER HOTEL & SPA sidneypier.com
Number of days to spend here
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SIDNEY WATERFRONT INN & SUITES sidneywaterfrontinn.com BEACON INN thebeaconinn.com VICTORIA AIRPORT TRAVELODGE travelodge.ca BEST WESTERN EMERALD ISLE bwemeraldisle.com
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ISL AND HOMES BY ATHENA McKENZIE PHOTOS BY JEFFREY BOSDET
TO MAKE THE MOST OF ITS STUNNING SETTING ON SALT SPRING ISLAND, THIS HOME USES A SERIES OF AIRY, LIGHT-FILLED PAVILIONS. THE MODERN DÉCOR, HANDCRAFTED WOOD FURNITURE, AND NATURE-INSPIRED ART SET THE STAGE FOR ELEGANT COASTAL LIVING.
COASTAL LUXURY 26 SALT
The home sits on a scenic, sloped midbank waterfront lot. Architect Michael Geary avoided blasting to remove the natural rockfall by designing an elevated glassed-in bridge to connect two parts of the home. The upper section contains the main living area, with wide gradual stairs leading down to the studio pavilion, which also has a guest bedroom and bathroom.
“T
hird time’s the charm” might seem an odd expression when it comes to home building, but it perfectly describes how two long-time Salt Spring Island residents realized their dream home. Having already built two homes on the Island, the pair turned to an architect and an interior designer for help when they found the perfect wooded site overlooking Sansum Narrows. “The esthetic is West Coast Modern, which, to me, means that the design acknowledges the climate, our nuanced light, and the site and uses indigenous materials,” says architect Michael Geary. “When standing in the kitchen, dining room, or living room or, indeed, any of the key living spaces, one sees and feels the grass slope, the oak trees, and, of course, the water and all the stunning changes of light. I wanted this house to capture all of this. I wanted the house to appear, from all
angles, as though it was meant to be there.” In building the house, the homeowners and Geary wanted to preserve as much of the original beauty of the unique southwestfacing site as possible, leaving many of the rock formations and arbutus and oak trees. To achieve this, Geary designed the home in three parts: the main house, a studio and guest wing to the west, and the master bedroom and ensuite to the east. “Dividing the building into three pavilions minimized the level changes and achieved other key goals,” Geary says. “[The homeowners] wanted to see the brokenrock formation from this studio and have the master bedroom — particularly the ensuite bathtub — to be private while surrounded by arbutus and Garry oak trees.” The homeowners also wanted to bring a modern feel into their décor and found designer Trish Puckett, who was consulting through Gabriel Ross, to push them out of
their comfort zone. “They had this beautifully crafted wood furniture that looked more traditional and they wanted to mix it with a more modern, edgy look and that was where the challenge was for them,” says Puckett. As the project was on Salt Spring and Puckett is based in Victoria, much of the consultation was done through email, photographs, and texts, with an occasional site visit. A major way that Puckett assisted with achieving the final look is through the lighting, particularly the striking Bocci lights seen above the dining table and over the day bed. The end result is something Puckett calls “a comfortable, West Coast, beachy modern.” “There are a lot of soft blues and greys and lots of light. And there are many spaces that invite curling up and soaking in the views.” SALT 27
Above: The homeowners have hundreds of interesting rocks and shells collected from their adventures around the world. They included a channel to the right of the home’s entry for these special finds, and add to it after each trip. Left: A challenge for the homeowners was how to mix edgier pieces with their existing traditional wooden furniture, and Brent Comber’s drum tables work by using a traditional material in a way that feels modern. The tree painting by John Barkley echoes the striking forest views. Indy, the homeowners’ dog, loves to nap in front of the fire. Below: According to the homeowners, the Rumford fireplace brings the living room to life. The furniture layout takes the views and the fireplace into consideration.
The Bocci suspension lights from Gabriel Ross may seem delightfully random but placement was thoughtfully designed, with each light individually wired into the drywall by the electrician. The colours are complemented by the painting by Quebec artist Élène Gamache. Handcrafted wood pieces by Jesse Fisher Fine Woodworks can be found throughout the home.
Left: The homeowners point to the glassed-in day-bed area off the living room as their favourite part of the home. Its corners are pieces of glass edged up next to each other, so no framing obstructs the panorama. It is outfitted with a custom mattress and cushions from Fawcett. Tiny suspended Bocci lights add to the dreamy quality of the space, which the homeowners describe as like being in a treehouse.
The incomparable view offers incentive to do the dishes, as the kitchen sink overlooks the water and the outdoor dining area. Elements such as the kitchen fixtures from Victoria Speciality Hardware and the Wolf appliances from Y. Franks strike a balance between the modern and traditional. Both kitchen countertop and stove backsplash are a rare natural quartzite chosen both for its light colour, which doesn’t overpower the room, and for its interesting character.
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Above: The serene colour palette of the bedroom invites relaxation and doesn’t compete with the views. Nature-inspired art — such as the Brent McIntosh painting above the bed and the Steven Friedman photograph between the windows — can be found throughout the home and contribute to its West Coast esthetic. Left: The extreme privacy of the property allows for the windows around the sculptural freestanding bathtub in the master ensuite. The dramatic Harco Loor light fixture adds a modern, edgy element but has an organic feel that works well in the space.
RESOURCES Architect: Michael Geary of Geary Design General Contractor: Hans Hazenboom of H. Hazenboom Construction Designer: Trish Puckett through Gabriel Ross Inc. and Puckett Design and Construction Landscaping: Wendy Mullan Gardens Cabinetry & Wood Furniture: Jesse Fisher Fine Woodworks Kitchen and Bathroom Fixtures: Victoria Speciality Hardware Granite and Marble: Margranite Industry Ltd. and Stone Age Marble & Granite Tile: Stone Tile Appliances: Y. Franks Appliances Sofa: Cassina, Gabriel Ross Area Rugs: Nanimarquina, Gabriel Ross, and Inform Interiors
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g n i v i L . . . e h e t lif
ONE RESORT AT A TIME Living on the Island means you never have to go very far to experience something spectacular. The resort options for weekend getaways are amazing — better yet, sneak away mid-week. Why not? It’s all so close. Here are some of my favourite resorts and why you might like them, too. BY CAROLYN CAMILLERI 34 SALT
Beach or bust
Pacific Sands Beach Resort Hotel
For so many people, going to Tofino is part getaway and part ritual. It’s where you go to restore balance and rejuvenate spirit — and to remind yourself that nature is bigger than we are. A lot bigger. Something about seeing all that beach and all that water, not to mention how that water has shaped the coastline, with its lush rainforest of really big trees — it’s humbling but at the same time invigorating. Tofino is also the kind of place you want to have cosy, comfortable accommodation to return to after a day outdoors. Pacific Sands Beach Resort Hotel is the legacy of the Pettinger family from Edmonton, who
purchased this property back in 1972, long before Tofino became the world-renowned destination it is now. Over the years, they transformed it from a few old cabins into a mix of luxurious suites and beach houses on 1,000 feet of Cox Bay beachfront. Last year, it was purchased by Gordon Nelson Inc., a Tofino family business. You could seriously move into these places with their fully equipped kitchens, fireplaces, soaker tubs, decadent robes, and that allimportant Tofino mainstay: rain slickers so you can walk on the beach in any weather. While Pacific Sands is a renowned
hideaway for romantic weekends and quiet retreats, you will want to get outside to explore Long Beach and Pacific Rim National Park or even just wander around Tofino. The more energetic can choose kayaking, surfing, hiking, whale and wildlife tours, and trips to Hot Springs Cove. Tofino has a number of good restaurants and at the top of the must-try dining list is Wolf in the Fog, a wonder of West Coast culinary creativity. Shelter Restaurant is another top pick and has a heated patio so you can sit outside well into the evening. pacificsands.com SALT 35
Fabulous spa weekend Brentwood Bay Resort and Spa
Everyone likes to be spoiled sometimes: being pampered in the spa, relaxing by the pool, enjoying beautiful food and wine that someone else prepares, tucking in for the night in a heavenly bed in a perfect room — and all in a setting that inspires serenity. Brentwood Bay Resort and Spa is that kind of place. You feel special from the moment you check in and turn yourself over to their wonderful staff. It’s a dazzling property, overlooking the calm waters of Saanich Inlet and the horseshoe of mountains and forest that surrounds it. King-sized beds, fireplaces, floor-to-ceiling windows, Jacuzzi tubs, and balconies are a few features of the impeccable rooms. Don’t miss the opportunity to experience the spa: it’s gorgeous and has a hydrotherapy rain shower, outdoor heated pool, and hot tub, as well as a team of practitioners offering all kinds of luxurious treatments. The dining room has wonderful breakfasts and a dinner menu starring local seasonal cuisine matched with Island wines. My favourite room is the pub: a stunning fir-timbered place with massive windows and a big heated patio with a fire pit. Wine tasting and garden wandering fit nicely into a spa weekend and the Saanich Peninsula has plenty of options, including Muse Winery in Deep Cove, Church and State Wines, and Sea Cider Farm and Ciderhouse, as well as the Butchart Gardens and Victoria Butterfly Gardens. If you are travelling by boat, moorage is available at the resort’s marina, which is also the launching point for scuba-diving tours, kayaking, and eco cruises. On Saturday nights in the summer, there are boat trips to see the Butchart Gardens fireworks. brentwoodbayresort.com 36 SALT
Real West Coast
JEFFREY BOSDET/SALT MAGAZINE
Point No Point Resort
The coastline west of Sooke is quintessential West Coast: crashing surf, rugged shorelines, aromatic forests, rocky beaches — even foggy days are magical, especially when you have a hot tub on your sundeck. Point No Point Resort harkens back to the 50s, when the property was first established by Evelyn Packham, a retired nurse. But while the nostalgic ambience has been retained in spirit, these cabins in the woods are decked out with all the little luxuries you need to hole up for a serene getaway: woodburning stoves, fluffy duvets, soaker tubs, and full kitchens. You can even add on a spa treatment if you think the sound of waves and views of Juan de Fuca Strait won’t be enough to erase whatever it was causing the tension in your shoulders before you arrived. The restaurant at Point No Point is a romantic spot with dazzling views and a great menu with a heavy local leaning and lots of tasty seafood. Outside, adventure awaits. French Beach Provincial Park has arguably one of the best beaches on the Island for view gazing, rock gathering, and aimless strolling. More serious hikers can pick a section of 47-kilometre Juan de Fuca Marine Trail to justify ordering dessert at dinner. Sooke Potholes (which are not the potholes you’re thinking) is a stretch of rock pools in the Sooke River where everyone swims on hot summer days. Farther west, the tidal pools at Botanical Beach (which are not for swimming in) are full of intertidal wildlife you can look at when the tide goes out. In the charming little town of Port Renfrew, the waterfront Renfrew Pub is a good choice for lunch with a pint and a game of pool. pointnopointresort.com
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Serious wilderness
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One of the coolest things about Nimmo Bay Resort is where it is and how you get there. It’s located in the midst of the Great Bear Rainforest, which is actually on the coastal mainland off the northern tip of the Island. There are no roads. To get there, you have to fly in or boat in. This is serious wilderness, with activity options like helifishing, kayaking, hiking, snorkelling, tubing, bear watching, and marine tours, as well as the Sea Wolf Cultural Experience, a First Nations-themed tour series. The list of gear they have on hand says it all, from fly-fishing rods, fishing waders, and wetsuits to hiking boots, wool socks, and open-water storm suits. Don’t worry: there is also a masseuse in case you overdo anything. But while the adventures are true wilderness experiences, the accommodation is high-end. Nine cabins, three of them streamside and six “intertidal,” meaning the tide goes in and out under your cabin, are equipped with everything you could need, from luscious robes and linens to wine, truffles, and house-made cookies. Then there’s the food. The folks at Nimmo Bay are as serious about food as they are about the wilderness. Locally sourced ingredients, including plenty of sustainable seafood and plenty of local wine and beer, make this a destination for dining as well as adventure in the wilderness. nimmobay.com
JEREMY KORESKI
JEREMY KORESKI
Nimmo Bay Resort
Salmon spectacular Sometimes treasure is found in unlikely places and that is true of Dolphins Resort. It’s the old-fashioned romance of a cedar cabin in the woods but elevated to modern standards. Wood-burning fireplaces and antique furnishings but with outdoor hot tubs, full kitchens, and Internet so you can really settle in for the weekend. Walk the beach, hang out on the docks, and relax with a drink on your patio and look across Discovery Passage at Quadra Island. Golfing, kayaking, hiking, whale and bear watching, snorkelling, and cycling are all great ways to make the most of a getaway, but the most famous activity in this area is fishing. After all, this resort overlooks one of the most renowned salmon-fishing areas in the province: Discovery Passage. This is where sportfishing started. This is where the Tyee Club was formed in 1924. This is where, legend has it, you could walk across the water on the backs of salmon. A variety of fishing charter packages is available. Or pretend you are Brad Pitt or Craig Sheffer in A River Runs Through It and try fly-fishing for steelhead. Whether or not you catch any fish, the Anglers’ Dining Room is a great bet for delicious West Coast-style dining, and, of course, salmon plays an important role on the menu. You can even have salmon for breakfast in an omelet or eggs benny. In town, check out the Museum at Campbell River and learn more about just how important salmon is to this area. dolphinsresort.com
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PADDLER’S PARADISE NO LONGER STITCHED SEALSKIN OVER WHALEBONE, MODERN KAYAKS ARE THE MOST COMFORTABLE, UNSINKABLE, AND NIMBLE CRAFT ON THE WATER. BY DAVID LENNAM
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ANYONE CAN DO IT… RIGHT AWAY
JOSH McCULLOCH
Originally a hunter’s boat for Indigenous peoples in Canada’s Arctic, early kayaks were stitched sealskin stretched over whalebone. Though the design has retained its authentic utility, it’s now high-tech fibreglass and polyethylene that lets you dart around like a water bug, hardly leaving a wake.
s indispensable as the canoe is to our Canadianess, it’s the kayak that’s taking over as a 21st-century cultural mainstay. It’s the kayak that is ubiquitous on lakes, rivers, and oceans, nimbly slicing through shoreline reeds or rolling across breaking surf. It’s the kayak riding two or three abreast atop Subarus and Volvos headed out to Tofino for weekend fun. And it’s the kayak that’s invited beginner paddlers to hop in and start paddling without hours of lessons. Perhaps the kayak is becoming a new measuring stick for our collective psyche, inevitably as Canuck as Farley Mowat or a double-double. If there’s a quick sell for kayaking, it’s hearing about those tooclose-to-nature exploits. Like this one from Jay Raichura, who runs Pender Island Kayak Adventures. Twelve years ago, a group he was escorting spotted whales in the distance and decided to hang out to get a better sighting. Grappled onto a crab-trap buoy, they waited. Nothing came, so they turned toward shore. “Right then, I remember three dorsal fins coming straight at us,” recalls Raichura. “They went right under our boats and surfaced 10 feet in front of us. The first one went straight up out of the water into a full breach, and the other two did the same thing on the right and the left. It was a dream.” The kind of dream every kayaker can enjoy through any of dozens of outfitters, tour guides, and kayak-rental operations on Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. JF Marleau, long-time vice-president of the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of B.C., puts it succinctly. “Kayaking allows you to cover lots of territory, go where a boat cannot go, and carry the volume of three or four backpacks… so you can bring your wine and beer and lawn chairs.” There are a lot of jokes about how kayaking is a West Coast cliché, as unavoidable as yoga, coffee, or lashing oneself to a tree in protest. But the sport has become part of the routine. Bobbing gently on the waves, you breathe the ocean’s breath. There’s magic in the ripples when you dip your hand into the water and they radiate out to the beyond. Endless ocean in one direction, lush rainforest, sandy beaches, and snugly navigable coves the other way. Marleau has kayaked all over the planet, but calls B.C.’s coast the best in the world. “We have a very nice climate and an amazing coastline with lots of islands, lots of bays, lots of fjords, and all the sounds you can explore are very diverse.” And, he adds, B.C. has the highest standards for sea kayak guides and safety anywhere. “People are coming from all over world to be trained here.” “We’ve had six-month-old babies out with their parents, a 92-year-old lady from Australia who’s an avid kayaker and travels the world doing it,” says Joanna Twa, owner of Victoria Kayak Tours and Rentals, reciting a little recruitment speech for wouldbe kayakers she’s welcomed to her Inner Harbour location. Included on her list are people with disabilities, overweight people, birders, SALT 41
photographers, painters, and “even people trying to get away from their relatives for a few hours at Christmas.” Raichura, who has been guiding for 12 years, enjoys watching how quickly beginners progress. “Pretty well everyone who sits in a kayak for two hours, their confidence level boosts up a ton. Most people start with a bunch of nerves and I tell them, in a half hour when your body relaxes, you’ll feel the difference, and they do. Some people are more natural at it, but if you have the mindset to learn, you can increase your skill level a pretty significant amount the first couple of times you’re out there.” There are myriad reasons to slip into a kayak and slip out on the waves. For Raichura, it’s balanced exercise while leaving zero impact on the environment. He started kayaking in 2003 when he moved from Winnipeg to Pender Island. After three lessons, he joined the company and started kayaking for a living. His Pender Island Kayak Adventures appeals to families who want to see whales, seals, and sea stars and be in the wild, without being overwhelmed. “It’s really the ultimate beginner kayaker’s paradise here with the flat water. A lot of people think ‘ocean’ and they think big swells and big waves, but it’s not.” Raichura and his stable of guides can arrange two- to four-hour trips or, for the more intrepid, a five-day paddle with a yoga instructor on board (the ultimate West Coast experience). “And,” he assures, “all of our trips are geared for beginners. It’s easy, efficient exercise and a
nice, natural way to explore.” Victoria’s Inner Harbour is Twa’s office. From there, one of her guides will take you out for a variety of no-experience-required trips, including a sunrise tour, when you won’t have to dodge harbour taxi boats, ferries, tugs, barges, and float planes. And the shallow draught of the boat means you can get close to the rocks, gliding along like a whisper, almost one with the natural world. “It’s spectacular,” enthuses Twa. “A lot of our clients will try it for the first time, and by the end of the tour, they’re asking where they can buy a boat.”
The waters of Johnstone Strait are renowned for world-class whale-watching opportunities.
THE BEST TRIPS ARE THE ONES YOU HAVEN’T BEEN ON YET
You’ll never run out of new waters to paddle. Ask an Island kayaker where their favourite destination is and you’ll hear as many choices as there are pinpoints on the map, and every one of them is keen to talk about where they’d like to go next. “It’s kind of endless,” muses Raichura. “Anywhere you go is a big adventure and I’m an advocate of ‘go see something new.’” One of his favourites is Saturna Island, where you paddle under inspiring sandstone cliffs into gentle bays outlined by vast stretches of sand. And be on the lookout for pods of orca in Boundary Pass as you navigate the 29-kilometre voyage around the island. Twa and kayak guide Emmy Marshall-Hill are both smitten with Vargas Island, only three kilometres from Tofino in Clayoquot Sound. THE BEST-DRESSED KAYAKER
By law, every paddler must wear a Canadian-approved personal flotation device, a.k.a. life vest. The inflatable ones are popular because of their low profile.
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Avoid cotton. There’s your kayaking how-to-dress mantra. If you’ve ever gone swimming in a sweatshirt and jeans (OK, who does that?), you already understand that cotton is the worst material to wear when it’s soaking wet. “You know what my wife says about cotton?” asks Jay Raichura. “She says, ‘Cotton kills cold Canadians quite quickly considering
clammy coastal climates.’” Lots of layers, recommends Twa. Light layers of synthetic fabric, athletic clothing that wicks water away for the summer. Yoga clothing, she says, is really good. In warm weather, quick-dry shorts and a t-shirt For the drizzle and fog of winter, wool and silk in layers is an excellent combo. Most outfitters will set you up with the obligatory rain jacket
and maybe even some neoprene mitts. Or something called Pogies, a mitt that Velcros around the paddle so you can easily slip your hands in or out for, say, taking a photo, while the mitt remains attached to the paddle. Put something on your feet. For summer, aqua socks, water shoes, or at least flip-flops or old sneakers. In winter, rubber boots or
neoprene booties with a sturdy sole. Unless you’re getting in and out of your kayak on a dock, you’ll have to dip your toes into the water — the very cold water. And you don’t want to step out onto rocks, coral, or barnacles without protection. “Crocs,” says Twa. “If you’re beach landing, that’s some protection. I’ve had people kayak in high heels, but I wouldn’t recommend it.”
ANDREW BAIN/ALL CANADA PHOTOS
“Kayaking is less about moving a kayak backwards, forwards, and sideways; it’s about enjoying the journey and all the emotions, memories, and lessons you experience along the way.” — JF Marleau, Vancouver Island kayak guide and author
Circumnavigating the small island, with its solitary beaches and tidal pools, can take as few as three days via a fairly sheltered route. Gray whales often frequent the wide, sandy Ahous Bay, as do porpoises, sea otters, and sea lions. The total round trip is 20 kilometres and is suitable for novices who can manage a surf landing and judge currents, tides, and weather. Just watch out for the late-afternoon fog that rolls in. One of the more familiar trips is the Broken Group Islands, an archipelago of 100 small, rocky islands in the middle of Barkley Sound between Bamfield and Ucluelet that can be kayaked in as few as three days (but give yourself at least five). Sandy beaches, protected anchorages, and plenty of birds and marine wildlife make this beginner-friendly area crowded in the summer. It’s a trip Marleau has guided others on many times. He even wrote a book about it: Kayaking the Broken Group Islands.
But the Ucluelet resident favours Clayoquot Sound — and not just because you’ll get to relax in some secluded hot springs. “It’s much bigger, with giant rainforest and miles and miles of sandy beaches where you won’t see another person. Totally stunning. And lots of animals: bears, whales, and I almost always see wolves. You can go for a few weeks or just an afternoon. I like to provide my guests with a real wild experience and they’re blown away. They don’t want to leave.” CHOOSING THE RIGHT KAYAK
Your first consideration has to be where you’re going to paddle — whitewater, lakes, coastal shorelines, or the high seas. There are numerous kayaks of different material, length, weight, and hull design, each suited to where you want to take it. Longer boats are faster. Tandem boats mean two of you can paddle together. Plastic boats mean you don’t have to
worry about bouncing off the rocks. Fit is the most important feature and it’s never a one-size-fits-all scenario. Like a glove, you wear it. “You want to get it so it’s an extension of your body so you can wiggle your hips,” explains Twa. “You sit like a frog, knees apart, and your knees are braced under the gunnels. Ultimately, you want to be able to control the entire kayak with your legs.” An extension of your legs, adds MarshallHill. “Most people think of kayaking as an upper body workout, but your legs are actually as engaged as the rest of you.” Raichura recommends sitting in as many as you can, maybe a dozen, so you know what the feeling is to get the ergonomics right. “It has to be snug without being snug.” And comfortable. After all, chances are you are going to be spending a lot of time in your kayak. S SALT 43
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R E A L E S TAT E BY SHANNON MONEO
Victoria’s hospitable climate and plentiful recreational choices draw homebuyers from all over Canada. Some seek an upscale condo and spend part of the year travelling, while others opt for a custom dream home crafted with the latest technologies. Either way, homebuyers are finding exactly what they want in Victoria.
Building for the lifestyle you want ENCORE AT BAYVIEW PLACE
Just a 10-minute walk from downtown Victoria and its many attractions is Bayview Place, a 20-acre waterfront piece of land that once housed Canadian Pacific Railway’s roundhouse. Today, Bosa Properties’ engine of change is steaming forward with parks, commercial venues, and residences, the latest being Encore and Roundhouse. Encore, a residential anchor, is three projects in one: a five-storey terraced building with 20 housing units, a two-storey podium building with 12 homes (six on each side), and a 17-storey, 102-unit tower. “These properties have phenomenal views and location,” says Ryan Bicknell, sales manager for Encore at Bayview Place. At the 40,000-square-foot Roundhouse, a variety of shops, reminiscent of Vancouver’s Granville Island or Seattle’s Pike Place Market, will be built, Bicknell says. At Encore, units are selling fast to a mix of clients, including retiring Boomers from the three Prairie provinces and Ontario, as well as Victorians who have swapped big homes for big luxury. “Everyone wants to be in Victoria,” boasts Bicknell. “It’s a small town with big city amenities. And, there’s easy access to U.S. destinations.” Bicknell also touts Encore’s amenities. The planned pool, with poolside cabanas, an outdoor fire area and barbecues, and fitness centre could be a high-end resort in Palm Springs or St. Tropez. In a nod to Bosa’s Italian roots, Encore’s interiors have an undeniable European feel: quartz countertops, porcelain tiles, his-and-hers closets, and trademarked living systems like ExtenTABLE, which transforms a kitchen island into a table that seats eight. An on-site concierge will keep everything on task. Various floor plans are available, with the majority of them two-bedroom units. Floor-to-ceiling windows deliver impeccable views, heightened by generous balconies. Prices start at $405,900 for one-bedroom units, which are selling fast. The two-bedrooms units range from 927 to 1,199 square feet and from $485,900 to $750,900. Two-bedroom, 1,704-square-foot estate homes cost $1.150 million. Strata fees are from 40 to 42 cents per square foot, per month. “Encore’s units are highly sought after and well-received,” says Bicknell of the project that will be complete in mid-2018. 44 SALT
The bright, spacious, modern interiors at Encore boast a variety of features, including quartz countertops, undermount sinks, and integrated and stainless steel appliances. The ExtenTABLE provides seating for up to eight people, but only when you need it, and slides back under an island when not in use. Other features include generous storage, his-and-hers closets, and, in some onebedroom units, a guest bed hidden behind the TV.
COASTAL CONSTRUCTION
There’s a good reason Brad Johnson named his company Coastal Construction when he launched in 1992. “In most cases, we’re building waterfront properties,” says Johnson, who was born and raised in Victoria. And he has literally carved a niche with homes where wood is often the centrepiece. “We have our own millwork shop where we do custom work. It’s a very hands-on process,” he says. Johnson got his hands into the business in 1983 after he finished high school and began as an apprentice for a Victoria construction company. He later formed his own framing business, which evolved into his customhome operation. Initially, he worked in the Victoria area. But, about 15 years ago, a regular Victoria customer asked Johnson to build a 9,600-square-foot, timber-framed mansion on Tofino’s famous Chesterman Beach. The seaside showpiece was the unofficial jump-start for Coastal’s upmarket construction. Depending on the time of year, Coastal has 20 to 35 employees, including a fulltime interior designer, two project managers, and two site foremen. “Good carpenters are drawn to our work because they can use and show their talents,” says Johnson, who is also Coastal’s senior project manager. Today, Coastal’s homes can be found from Tofino to Cedar, Sidney to East Sooke. Recently, Coastal spent 30 months working on a home fit for a king in the exclusive Queenswood area of Victoria. Because Coastal is focused on building top-tier homes, with the occasional renovation hammered in, Johnson has developed a very transparent process to work with his clients. The method includes comprehensive budget tracking, detailed progress reports, and efficient change-order processes. Coastal’s custom homes cost from $300 to $1,000 per square foot. < Winner of multiple awards, Coastal Construction is notable for custommilled wood. Here, the warmth of the wood provides contrast for the stonework on this contemporary home. Inside, wall-sized windows make the most of the water views. SALT 45
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into place. One layer of concrete forms the inside structural wall and the other concrete layer is the outside wall and siding. The concrete walls provide a durable external structure for the home that can’t be damaged by moisture, says Andrew Chapman, project manager with NZ Builders. In the business of renovations, building passive solar-powered homes, and constructing luxury properties, Chapman says NZ Builders “come at things from the perspective of a craftsman. We’re a NZ BUILDERS high-performance builder who builds for When Damon Gray landed in Canada in durability and comfort.” 2004 from New Zealand, it didn’t take the Recently, NZ Builders demolished six carpenter long to notice recurring problems homes that were over 30 years old. All of with how houses were constructed on the the houses were victims of the West Coast’s Island. “Wood framing has to be built driving rain and construction methods that correctly to last,” says Gray. “When I first didn’t provide the necessary protection got here, I renovated against moisture. homes with rot Other NZ Builders damage.” “I’m bringing projects include new Soon after, Gray passive solar concrete Kiwi ingenuity to started Victoria-based homes on Salt Spring the local building NZ Builders. “I’m Island, the Sunshine bringing Kiwi ingenuity industry, something Coast, and in Oak to the local building completely unique Bay, renovations to a industry, something 1927-built Oak Bay to the industry.” completely unique to cottage, and construction —Damon Gray, NZ Builders the industry.” of a high-style, lowWhat that entails maintenance stunner of is the use of concretea home in North Saanich. insulated panel (CIP) construction, an While NZ Builders homes may be efficient method where walls are built by physically beautiful, they’re also healthy. pouring concrete into wall-size steel forms “A house can be the most polluted place reinforced with structural rebar. After you can be,” he says, explaining that offinsulation is installed and the concrete has gassing from construction products can hardened, a crane lifts the sandwich panel make indoor air worse than outdoor air. Seamless management of the building process is important, given that about 80 per cent of Coastal’s customers are from outside the Victoria area, with most from Vancouver or Calgary, Johnson says. In business not quite 25 years, Coastal has consistently captured top home-building awards from the Canadian Home Builders’ Association and at the Vancouver Island Building Excellence event in a wide range of categories.
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SIMON DESROCHERS
Fins and Skins
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In addition to the climate control that comes from concrete-insulated panel construction, this NZ Builders bungalow uses solar panels on the roof to further improve energy efficiency. Stone aggregates in the polished concrete floor (which extends throughout the home) give it colour variation and add visual interest. Cedar planks inside and out add warmth and colour.
And when CIP construction is used, “We can build a home where the temperature is consistent throughout the house so it costs less to operate the home,” says Gray. Winner of several 2014 CARE awards (for Canadian leaders in sustainable design) and a 2015 Vancouver Island Building Excellence award, NZ Builders draws a mix of clientele. “We want to build quality that will be there for a long time,” Gray says. And achieving a quality lifestyle over the long term is exactly why so many people move to the Island. S
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HOME DESIGN BY ADRIENNE DYER
SARAH HOGAN/LIVING4MEDIA
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Living Light
WHAT’S NOT TO LOVE ABOUT ROOMS THAT OFFER YEAR-ROUND, COMFORTABLE ENJOYMENT OF THE OUTDOORS AND FLOOD THE REST OF THE HOUSE WITH NATURAL LIGHT? CHANCES ARE THE SUNROOM WILL BECOME YOUR FAVOURITE ROOM NO MATTER WHAT THE SEASON. OR IS IT A SOLARIUM?
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Before we get into the details, it helps to get the terminology straight. Sunrooms and solariums are basically the same thing — fourseason rooms enclosed by glass. Some builders distinguish the two by the amount of glass: solariums are almost entirely glass, including the roof, while sunrooms are shaded by a regular roof, perhaps with a skylight or two. In both cases, the construction considerations are the same: energy efficiency, leak protection, drainage, architectural appeal, insulation, maintenance, and a proper foundation. And as with any addition or enclosures, both must, by
law, be engineered and built to code with the proper permits in place, a process most construction companies will handle for you.
“Almost all condos are sound enough to handle an enclosure ...”
Visually, a new sunroom should blend seamlessly with the architecture of the house. Roof pitch, siding, and exterior trim all need to flow together. Sunrooms and patio enclosures must be physically attached correctly, too, or they’ll leak, causing extensive damage to your home or, in the case of condos, to the entire building envelope. Tim Agar, project manager for Horizon Pacific Contracting and Sunrooms, sees this all too often. His company repairs existing structures of all shapes and sizes and also creates design protocols for new strata buildings, so that the plans are already in place if future condo owners decide to convert their balconies. Troy Nelson, owner of Northern Tropic Solariums, warns against the leakage problem, too. “Almost all condos are sound enough to handle an enclosure, but you need a fastening engineer and a structural engineer to make sure the sunroom is attached properly to the building. For single-family homes, we use our own aluminum flashing system to ensure the rooms don’t leak.” The foundation is also crucial to a sunroom’s success. Slapdash, DIY varieties constructed atop a pre-existing patio ultimately fail. “Concrete is very porous,” says Nelson. “When you build a sunroom on a patio, all the ground moisture comes through into the room, essentially creating a giant steam room on a hot summer day. You have to replace the existing concrete and install an insulated concrete pad with proper drainage, just as you would with any addition.” Energy efficiency is another key consideration. Older sunrooms are notoriously hot in the summer and freezing in winter. New glass technology fixes that problem. “Sunrooms can be as efficient as normal household rooms,” says Tristan Maxey of Allied Glass and Aluminum Products. “There are numerous types of glass that can be
WINFRIED HEINZE/LIVING4MEDIA
PLAN FOR SUCCESS
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A sunroom built adjacent to a patio makes the perfect transition space between indoors and out. For a serene sense of flow, be sure to choose indoor and outdoor décor that shares some of the same colours or elements to tie the design together.
used for a sunroom application with many different purposes, but the most energyefficient glass would be a UV-blocking reflective exterior pane with a low-e argon interior, which keeps sunrooms warm in winter and cool in summer. Compared with regular house windows, our sunroom glass is usually more efficient.” Nelson uses a patented glass called Conservaglass Plus, made by Four Seasons Sunrooms. Their technology employs two types of glass coatings: a heat-trapping coating used on the walls to capture the warmth of the sun in winter months when the sun is low and a heat-blocking coating for ceiling panels to reflect heat in the summer when the sun is high. Agar, who sources glass from Oldcastle Glass and Garibaldi Glass in Vancouver, says they select the right glass for each sunroom based on each site’s particular requirements. It’s part of the feasibility study they conduct at the beginning of each project,
which examines details like land type, the architecture of the home, orientation, and how the homeowners plan to use the room. The results of the study govern the entire project right down to the finishing details. “We always start with a solar study to track the sun throughout the day and seasonally,
then we design the glass accordingly,” he says. “There are all sorts of glazing opportunities for different situations, including privacy glass to reduce the ‘fish bowl’ effect and heatmirror glass to slow thermal gain in southfacing rooms.” Agar also says good ventilation is key in
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any size sunroom. Although ceiling fans are popular, they really aren’t necessary so long as 50 per cent of the wall systems can open so the air can circulate. MAINTENANCE SHOULD BE MINIMAL
Maintenance is always a big concern when you’re dealing with so much glazing. You certainly don’t want to spend hours up a ladder cleaning pine needles off the roof, or having your view obstructed by the streaks you left behind with your squeegee. Some companies, like Allied Glass and Northern Tropic, offer special coatings that repel pollen and other debris (ahem, bird poop). Simply spray with a hose, or wait for a good rain shower, and voilà! Spotless glass. In the dry season, Nelson recommends a good hose-down with an outdoor glass-cleaning solution of the home-centre variety. No squeegees required. “Maintenance has much to do with selecting the correct product for the application,” says Agar. “A wood assembly is okay for a clear spot where rot is not an issue, but an aluminum exterior is a better choice for shady, heavily treed areas.” Speaking of trees, are falling branches a problem during winter storms when you have a sunroom? Surprisingly, no. “We’ve installed sunrooms all along the West Coast, from Sooke to Port Renfrew,” says Nelson. “Even in heavily treed areas, breaks from branches are extremely rare.” Golf balls, however, are another story. In terms of the interior maintenance, Agar says it’s crucial to plan all finishes before construction, taking into account how the room will be used. “If you plan to fill your sunroom with plants, for example, a tile or vinyl floor is best because of the moisture.” Other details, like in-floor heating or the elegant, tiny track-rail lighting systems Agar often installs, must be built in during the construction phase, with clear maintenance plans in place in case things go wrong down the road. When it comes to finishing materials, you have every choice available to you, though it’s important to incorporate those choices into the overall design. But however you finish it — and whatever you call it — it will be a haven infused with natural light that will feel like summer all year long. S SALT 51
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S P EC I A L P L AC E S BY ANDREW FINDLAY
Campbell River A down-to-earth city surrounded by wilderness
BOOMER JERRITT/ALL CANADA PHOTOS
The city of Campbell River is an unpretentious place. And while you will find all the creature comforts you could want in town, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the wilderness that has been drawing people here for more than a century.
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Campbell River is fishing heaven in any month of the year. With rivers, lakes, and the ocean all practically within casting distance, you can don waders and catch trout or steelhead in a river, fish for halibut from a boat and drop a crab trap at the same time, or fish for salmon from the pier, the beach, or a boat. The options are endless.
PRESERVING THE WILDS
A metropolis by Vancouver Island standards with 36,000 residents, Campbell River is the last city before Highway 19 meanders northward to its terminus
The original Painter’s Lodge was built in 1929 by E.P. Painter to replace the colonies of tents put up by people who came to fish. The lodge became an international favourite, until it was destroyed by fire on Christmas Eve, 1985. The property was purchased by the Oak Bay Marine Group in 1987 and the new Painter’s Lodge, pictured here, opened for business in June 1988.
in Port Hardy. It’s also the gateway to Strathcona Provincial Park, the province’s first provincial park. In July 1910, B.C.’s then-Minister of Lands, Price Ellison, set off from Campbell River with a party of 23, including his 20-year-old daughter Myra, to explore the Island’s interior for park potential. They travelled up the Campbell River, following a chain of lakes toward Crown Mountain. On July 29, they reached the summit of Crown, which gave them a panoramic view of the rugged alpine and deep forested valleys — the landscape that would form the core of B.C.’s inaugural Class A provincial park. For a time, there was talk of replicating the tourism model of Banff National Park, with paddlewheelers on Buttle Lake and luxury hotels. Instead, the park retains its wild atmosphere, a haven for adventurers. For anything approaching luxury, the city of Campbell River is the place to be. TAKING IN THE SIGHTS
Campbell River is unpretentious in a way that only a town rooted in the resource
SALMON LEGACY Campbell River’s heritage is really founded on salmon. For thousands of years, the First Nations have fished the waters here, which are especially abundant because of the narrowness of the Discovery Passage, as well as their nearness to the spawning grounds of the Campbell River. Sportfishing took off after 1896, when Sir Richard Musgrave wrote about his fishing experience in the British magazine The Field. Apparently, he caught 19 chinook salmon in one weekend, along with some coho. By 1924, the Tyee Club was formed by some local enthusiasts. The standards still apply today and include rules such as, a chinook must weigh at least 30 pounds and be caught using a rod between six and nine feet in length, a handoperated reel, 20-pound test line, and a single hook with an artificial lure. Oh, and you must have your boat motor tilted out of the water or use a rowboat. There are more rules. Or, you can skip Tyee Club requirements and just go fishing. A fleet of charters awaits.
DEREK TRASK/ALL CANADA PHOTOS
J
ohn Wayne wasn’t the only celebrity to row out to the mouth of Campbell River with a fishing pole on a quest for a prize chinook salmon. The walls of Painter’s Lodge are decorated with photos of the famous and ordinary, all drawn to the city that shares its name with this river and looks out to a maze of channels, islands, and inlets between Vancouver Island and the rugged mainland coast. Ever since the late conservationist, fisherman, and author Roderick HaigBrown first settled here in the 1940s, Campbell River has been synonymous with fishing. Haig-Brown House, managed by the Museum at Campbell River, still stands on the banks of the legendary river as a tribute to Haig-Brown’s life, writings, and conservation efforts that left a mark across British Columbia.
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DEREK TRASK/ALL CANADA PHOTOS
GOCAMPBELLRIVER
sectors can be. Though forestry has lost some of its lustre, it remains important. The wilderness and sportfishing draw visitors from around the world who come to kayak, hike, cycle, and fish for salmon and halibut. The city’s newest attraction is the Elk Falls Suspension Bridge, which opened in May last year. Swaying 60 metres above a chasm in the upper Campbell River, the 64-metrelong suspension bridge offers a dizzying view of the falls. A short drive away, Snowden Demonstration Forest is a destination for mountain biking. More than 50 kilometres of hiking and biking trails wind through this second-generation forest. On the city’s southern side, Stories Beach is an ideal vantage point for watching the sun rise over the Coast Mountains, cresting over landmarks like Denman Peak and Mount Doogie Dowler and bathing the east coast of Vancouver Island in warm
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SALT MAGAZINE VICTORIA 2016 Saturday, March 26, 2016 10:46:31 AM
Left: It took six years to build the Elk River Suspension Bridge, but thanks to the efforts of local community groups, including area First Nations, the bridge was completed last May. Too scared to cross? There are also two viewing platforms.
Centre: The Campbell River waterfront, with its marina, Discovery Pier, ferry dock, and walking and cycling paths, is a fun place to hang out.
Right: Cycling tours by Island Joy Rides are a great way to get acquainted with Campbell River’s scenery and its culinary scene.
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morning light. Hermit crabs scatter for cover among the intertidal rocks, and great blue herons stand motionless nearby in ankle-deep water, a study in patience as they wait to spear fish with beaks as sharp as razors. Campbell River’s sprawling oceanfront begs for early-morning walks — or afternoon bike rides. A two-lane paved pedestrian-cycling path parallels the seaside and leads downtown. From the beach, about 15 minutes of cycling leads to Discovery Pier, where anglers jig for salmon in the swirling tidal currents below, the sea a rich emerald green. The 600-foot-long fishing pier has built-in rod holders, fishcleaning tables, and a concession stand famous for ice cream. Gulls squawk overhead while the marina buzzes with activity: working boats, sailboats, yachts, and other recreational craft piloted by anglers zipping out to Cape Mudge to troll for salmon. Nearby, cars line up for the ferry sailing to Quadra Island, a 10-minute hop across Discovery Passage. Settled into a leather chair in the Fireside Lounge at Painter’s Lodge in the evening, fish-tale conversations drift throughout the room that slowly fills with patrons after a day on the water. Outside, the waters of Discovery Passage ripple in the brisk breeze, and the summer sunset casts a lustrous golden glow. It’s not hard to imagine John Wayne, his widebrimmed cowboy hat tilted low, jigging for salmon at the mouth of the river nearby. Celebrities come and go, but Campbell River stays firmly rooted in the land and sea, as unpretentious as an evening stroll on a beach. S
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B OAT I N G
BY ALEX VAN TOL | PHOTOS BY JEFFREY BOSDET
Building Your Dream Boat
So you want to build your own boat — or more precisely, you’re ready to hire someone else to build it for you. There’s no better place to embark on this adventure than Vancouver Island, home to some of the best boat builders on the continent. And here’s another reason it’s perfect: when your new beauty is ready for launch, you’ll be ideally positioned to begin your marine explorations.
Boat builder Rob Abernethy of Abernethy and Gaudin working on the Avocet, an award-winning sailboat at the Victoria Classic Boat Festival. The rustic but beautiful shop is located right next to the Brentwood ferry on the Saanich Peninsula. 56 SALT
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f you’ve been a boater for a while, you’ve probably felt the temptation to build your own vessel. Typical candidates for building a boat are those who have had a few years of experience on the water, know what works well, and have a good understanding of what they like. Building a boat is much like building a house: you get to make exactly what you want with your preferred level of quality and construction. “People who build boats often want something that’s unique,” says Jerry Boone, sales manager at Philbrook’s Boatyard in Sidney, which offers custom boat design and construction along with repairs and maintenance. “You want a hull shape that provides a comfortable motion in rough seas and that responds well to the helm,” says Jean Gaudin, master builder and co-owner of Abernethy and Gaudin in Brentwood Bay. Building your own boat also lets you plan an efficient, pleasing interior layout, while determining the most convenient access for servicing and maintenance. But be warned: building a boat is a lengthy process, taking thousands of man hours — often tens of thousands. Philbrook’s is currently underway on a major 120-foot boat project for an Alberta client that will easily span one to two years. The time needed to build your boat depends not only on its size and type (e.g. wood, metal, fibreglass), but also on the level of interior and exterior detail, the type of materials you’re using, and the experience of the
craftspeople who are building it. “I have built a simple plywood dinghy in four days that required nothing but a pair of oars to get out and enjoy on the water,” says Gaudin. “And I’ve also worked on large, oneto two-year, complex boat projects requiring teams of skilled specialists, from shipwrights, electricians, mechanics, sailmakers, riggers, and painters to metal fabricators, machinists, and canvas workers.” Where to begin? First off, decide what you like. Talk to people whose boat designs you like, and ask them what they did. Your boat builder of choice can connect you with a naval architect, or you can bring plans that you’ve purchased or have had drawn up. These beginning drawings are enlarged in a process called lofting, which scales them to the full size of the boat. “This essentially gives a pattern for all the main structural components of the boat that, once assembled, will create the desired form,” Gaudin explains. Builders can work with a boat at whatever stage you’re at. If you arrive with nothing but a fibreglass hull and a steering wheel, they’ll take it from there. You will want someone on the ground looking after all the parts of your project, so choosing a project manager
you are comfortable working with throughout the course of your build is an important decision. After the main components of the deck and hull are built, these parts are planked, and then the motor, fuel, and water tanks are put in. Plumbing and electrical systems follow. Exterior and interior fitting out takes place concurrently with painting and varnishing. You can be as present or as absent as you like during the building process. “We built a boat for a guy who lives a block away and he was in here every day,” says Boone. “Right now, we’re doing a major project where the owner is from Alberta, and he has been here three times in the past six months.” If you’re building a sailboat, the final part of a build is fitting the boat with a mast and rigging. But most new builds are powerboats, says Boone, and most of these are in fibreglass or aluminum. Building custom wooden sailboats is a nichey market, says Gaudin, whose immersion in the world of boats began with his shipwright father. Rather than new builds, most of Abernethy and Gaudin’s work is of the restoration type: to wit, their current work on HMCS Oriole, the Canadian navy’s sail training vessel stationed at Esquimalt, or their upcoming restoration of the 1899 English pilot cutter that bobs quietly on its moorings in the Saanich Inlet, out back of the shop. Whether by sail or by motor, Vancouver Island’s boat builders can get you out on the water in style — just the way you order it. S SALT 57
LOCAL FAVOURITE
PHOTOS: JEFFREY BOSDET/SALT MAGAZINE
That’s gin they’re pouring. Father-and-son duo, Stephen and Jeremy Schacht, started Ampersand Distilling Co. in Duncan in 2011, and they have been rocking the Island cocktail world since they launched their handcrafted gin. It’s made with organic B.C. wheat and botanicals like juniper, coriander, lemon, angelica, and orris. Perfect for that classic summer gin and tonic.
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YOUR VICTORIA HOME THE WAY YOU WANT IT!
BUT HURRY, YOUR CHAnCE TO CUsTOMIzE Ends sOOn!
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SCHOOL LESS ORDINARY.
What are you doing this weekend? Boarding students at SMUS are kayaking among the Gulf Islands, taking their scuba dive certification, eating dinner in downtown Victoria with their friends,
volunteering in the local community and studying for one (or more) of 26 AP courses. Discover SMUS for yourself by visiting our beautiful campus next time youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re on Vancouver Island: www.smus.ca/visit
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