ISSUE 62 JUL/AUG 2019
yammagazine.com
VICTORIA’S LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE
2019 BEST RESTAURANT AWARDS WINNER
Restaurant of the Year Page 52
The Audi e-tron. The beauty of science.
Meet the Audi e-tron®. Building on decades of electric engineering, the e-tron engine outputs an impressive 360 HP and a 4,000 lb towing capacity with the added bonus of being equipped with an entirely new quattro all-wheel drive system. Redefining the electric vehicle segment, the state-of-the-art e-tron battery offers the convenience of rapid charging with levels of 80% being reached in as quickly as 30 minutes. Offering a 326 km range, the e-tron is suitable for driving to Nanaimo and back on a single charge. In keeping with the Audi unrivalled pedigree in the areas of technology, the e-tron amplifies your driving experience with the latest innovations including freespeech voice command so you can easily operate all infotainment features, hands-free. The electric revolution is here and ready to make its mark in history.
Reserve yours at Audi Victoria today.
Audi Victoria
A Division of GAIN Group
2929 Douglas Street, Victoria | 778.746.1848 | audivictoria.com European model shown for illustration purposes only. Subject to availablility. Some conditions may apply. Please call Audi Victoria for full details. “Audi”, “e-tron”, “Vorsprung durch Technik”, and the four rings emblem are registered trademarks of AUDI AG. DL4991427 #31246.
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VICTORIA 250.380.3933
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WEST VANCOUVER 604.922.6995
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INTRODUCING
$4,475,000 THE ART OF LIVING $4,250,000 INSIGHT:
3160 Ripon Road, Oak Bay
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8005 Turgoose Terr., Central Saanich
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971 Aros Rd., Cobble Hill
1130 Silver Spray Dr., East Sooke
BEDS: 5 BATHS: 5 6,003 SQ. FT.
BEDS: 3 BATHS: 3 2,536 SQ. FT.
PREC PREC PREC Lisa Williams 250.514.1966 Glynisconnects MacLeodour Victoria Cao 250.891.8578 Insight: The Art of Living, Sotheby’s International Realty Canada’s exclusive magazine, clients250.661.7232 and readers to unique perspectives, extraordinary experiences and thought-provoking ideas that inspire you to live more deeply, richly and imaginatively. INTRODUCING Sign up to receive a complimentar y subscription to Canada’s premier publication,
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819 Byng Street, Oak Bay
4255 Barnjum Rd., Duncan
8870 Randy’s Pl., Sooke
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BEDS: 4 BATHS: 4 2,062 SQ. FT.
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803 - 288 Eltham Rd., View Royal
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BEDS: 5 BATHS: 3 1,950 SQ. FT.
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BEDS: 1 BATHS: 1 671 SQ. FT.
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Restaurant Awards Issue
CO N T E N T S 50 YAM’S 2019 BEST RESTAURANT AWARDS YAM’s annual celebration of the thriving local food scene names the tastiest places to eat right now: the establishments serving up the freshest, most inventive and most memorable eats. By Cinda Chavich
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40
STEEPED IN NATURE Life, philosophy and the art of sipping, in the Cowichan Valley. By Linda Barnard
6
78
86
Research shows early risers are happier than late nighters, but changing from owl to lark isn’t always easy. We put some expert advice to the test.
SEAWEED WONDERFUL
HAVE BIKE, WILL EXPLORE
Delicious and nutritious, seaweed is one of the wild foods attracting the interest of Island chefs and foragers.
On these three local cycling trips, you’ll find the region’s best swimming holes, culinary pitstops and even a bit of shopping.
By Kerry Slavens
By Cinda Chavich
By Susan Hollis
RISE & SHINE
YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2019
CO N T E N T S in every issue
28 10
E DITOR’S NOTE
13
HERE & NOW
20
IN PERSON
20
Sun-kissed colour, coastal cool, summer sips, a delicious contest and the latest food trends.
Artist Blu Smith is famous for magically capturing the luminous quality of light ... and life. By Erin McIntosh
28
HOME & LIFESTYLE A Cobble Hill reno turns a former B & B into a Hamptons-style estate. By Danielle Pope
92 OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK Monday–Saturday 10am–6pm Sunday 11am–5pm 1701 Douglas Street victoriapublicmarket.com
STYLE WATCH Sail away. Styled by Janine Metcalfe
98
SCENE Blue Bridge Theatre’s gender shuffle means girls will be boys. By David Lennam
DO TELL 102
A Proust-style interview with chef Kellan Musseau of Wheelies Motorcycles. By Susan Hollis
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YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2019
92
Vancouver Island
Concours d’Elegance Presented By GAIN Group
August 25, 2019
11:00 - 2:00
Shawnigan Lake School
In Support Of
islandconcours.com Concoursdelegance
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EDITOR’S NOTE
DESIGNER Q & A
Why hire a Registered Interior Designer?
When in the skilled hands of a creative professional, relevant code, budget and schedule requirements are met to the highest of standards.” Raubyn Rothschild, RID Rothschild West Design + Planning
We save you from making costly mistakes, delivering beautiful spaces that increase the value of your home or business.” Kyla Bidgood, RID Bidgood + Co Interiors
VISIT US AT DESIGNCAN.CA FOR A LIST OF REGISTERED DESIGNERS ON VANCOUVER ISLAND.
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YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2019
Sweet Nothings
I
had big plans for my recent week-long getaway to Hornby Island. “I’m going to write every day,” I told anyone who asked. I stuffed my laptop and research books into my suitcase and off I went with my scheme to spend my days writing. But then I did exactly nothing. Nada. Zilch. I woke every morning with plans to write, and then my plans just faded away like the early morning mist from the beach stretching out in front of our cabin. The first day there, I felt guilt about what I “should” be doing. By day two, I got defensive when my husband Kerry Slavens, Editor-in-Chief asked me how the writing was going. But by day three, I had become defiant. “No one can force me to write if I don’t feel like it,” I told myself. Instead, I gave in to the magic of Hornby Island. I got up early and strolled along the country lane bordering the farm, visiting the pregnant cow and her yearling and watching the eagles ride the sea winds. When the mist burned off, I would cross the log over the creek and head to the beach for hours, reading poetry or exploring. Many days, I didn’t even see another human until my husband returned in the early evening from guitar camp. My days in the cabin between beach and farm ended up being one of the most relaxing getaways I’ve had since those endless, golden summers of my childhood. The Italians have a phrase for this kind of idleness: la dolce far niente, which translates into the sweetness of doing nothing. And it is sweet. It’s also something we don’t value enough in a go-go-go society hooked on what author Andrew Smart calls the “culture of effectiveness.” In his book Autopilot, Smart argues that a resting state is essential for creativity and memory retention. “In our hysterical rush to make money, gain status, compete for scarce jobs, jockey for promotions ... ,” he writes, “we are suppressing our brain’s natural ability to make meaning out of experience.” And so on Hornby Island, I stopped doing, planning and striving. I gave into la dolce far niente, allowing my brain to idle. Though I didn’t act on it then and there, creativity began to bloom in me. “Everything in nature invites us constantly to be what we are,” wrote essayist and poet Greta Ehrlich. I reflected on her words as the world came to life all around me: the purple wildflowers suddenly there in the meadow one morning, the new calf in the field being tended by her mother and sister, the meanderings of dozens of goslings born to several pairs of Canada Geese. It’s easy to find the sweetness of life on vacation. The key, as I’m realizing, is to discover it in our daily lives, amidst traffic jams and grocery lineups. It’s harder to find, but it’s there, just waiting for you to slow down, breath deeply and notice. ______________ Congratulations to the winners of our 2nd annual Best Restaurant Awards! I hope you will visit them on your taste adventures this year. I’d also like to highlight the work of YAM’s charity partner, Shelbourne Community Kitchen, a community resource for individuals and families living on a low income and experiencing food insecurity. Please visit shelbournecommunitykitchen.ca and help support this wonderful service that is helping people access nutritious, affordable food through small-group cooking sessions, a pantry and gardening programs.
Email me at kslavens @ pageonepublishing.ca
RELAXED AND CONTEMPORARY 2655 Douglas St 250.386.7632 www.luxevictoria.ca
“The layered textures and varied shades of grey create visual interest in this contemporary dining space. It is bright and airy with a relaxed, livable vibe.” JANINE LANGE, LUXE DESIGNER
VICTORIA’S LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE
PUBLISHERS Lise Gyorkos, Georgina Camilleri EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Kerry Slavens DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Jeffrey Bosdet PRODUCTION MANAGER Jennifer Kühtz SALES & MARKETING MANAGER Amanda Wilson
LEAD GRAPHIC DESIGNER Janice Hildybrant
DEPUTY EDITOR Athena McKenzie
SENIOR WRITER Susan Hollis
ASSOCIATE GRAPHIC DESIGNER Jo-Ann Loro
ADVERTISING COORDINATOR Rebecca Juetten PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Belle White
ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES Deana Brown, Sharon Davies, Denise Grant, Cynthia Hanischuk, Nicole Mackie
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Linda Barnard, Cinda Chavich, David Lennam, Erin McIntosh, Danielle Pope
CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITOR Janine Metcalfe
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Dean Azim, Jeffrey Bosdet, Joshua Lawrence, Belle White
Chanii B uses the most exquisite leathers and skins from all over the world, and their shoes are designed to be wearable, and to last. They only work with small familyrun factories in Portugal who can cope with the detail and complexity of their individual designs.
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR Sydney Barnes PROOFREADER Paula Marchese CONTRIBUTING AGENCIES Getty Images p. 43, 72; Stocksy p. 16 GENERAL INQUIRIES info@yammagazine.com LETTERS TO THE EDITOR letters@yammagazine.com TO SUBSCRIBE TO YAM subscriptions@yammagazine.com ADVERTISING INQUIRIES sales@yammagazine.com ONLINE yammagazine.com FACEBOOK facebook.com/YAMmagazine TWITTER twitter.com/YAMmagazine INSTAGRAM @yam_magazine ON THE COVER The Sun Wing Farm Tomatoes dish from Saveur Restaurant, named Restaurant of the Year in our annual Best Restaurant Awards
Photo by Jeffrey Bosdet
Published by PAGE ONE PUBLISHING 580 Ardersier Road, Victoria, B.C. V8Z 1C7 T 250-595-7243 info@pageonepublishing.ca pageonepublishing.ca
Printed in Canada by Transcontinental Printing. Ideas and opinions expressed in this publication do not necessarily reflect the views of Page One Publishing Inc. or its affiliates; no official endorsement should be inferred. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement, and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not the publisher. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in all or part, in any form — printed or electronic — without the express permission of the publisher. The publisher cannot be held responsible for unsolicited manuscripts and photographs. Canadian Publications Mail Product Sales Agreement #41295544
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YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2019
BC
HERE & NOW
REFRESH, RELAX, REPEAT
JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE
The delicate waterfall of iced tea into the glass, the clink of ice cubes and a long cool sip — just a few of the things that epitomize a perfect summer day. With her handmade teapots and cups, Erika Arbour-Nevins of Wicked Wanda Pottery looks to create pieces that will become part of everyday life, our daily rituals and gatherings with friends and family.
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HERE & NOW 1 The versatile Moroccan pouf can be casual seating, a footrest or paired with a tray as a stylish side table. (babasouk.ca)
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2
Sun-kissed
Colour
9
Sun-baked hues embody the heat of the season while invoking feelings of rest and relaxation. Achieve the sun-kissed vibe with bleached terracotta and subtle, barely-there neutrals.
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2 Para Paints’ Colour of the Year for 2019 is Ginger Scent, a calming soft terracotta that pairs well with neutrals. (Find local retailers at para.com) 3 These handmade earrings from Jessica Winzelberg jewelry feature African jasper and aventurine. (jessicawinzelberg.com)
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4 Made right here in Victoria, Wychbury Ave soaps use plant-based fragrance oils that are phthalate and paraben free. (Find Wychbury at Esquimalt Farmer’s Market and etsy.com) 5 Le Creuset’s Minimalist Dinnerware celebrates the beauty of simplicity. (Line available at Penna & Co.) 6 The Stowe Nellie shoulder bag is made from luxe unlined Italian vegetable tan leather. (Meraki Boutique at Uptown) 7 Use Sonoma Stone Della Vigna from Sonoma Tilemakers to create an elegant mosaic. (Line carried at Decora Tile) 8 This terracotta textured lumbar pillow can add a subtle pop of colour to your sofa. (Pier 1 Imports) 9 The hand-poured, natural soy candle from ZOAconcept features a unique concrete pot with copper accents. (etsy.com)
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MIXED MATERIALS Brass jewelry is everywhere this season and will continue to be well into the fall. At her home-based studio in Chemainus, Danielle Gaudet of Assemblage handcrafts her brass and mixedmaterial pieces, creating artful earrings and necklaces. “I love the warm tones of brass,” Gaudet says. “Something about the late 70s and early 80s sculptural shapes inspires me, and it comes out in my pieces with a bit of a boho hippie vibe.”
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YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2019
Coastal Cool
ELEVATE YOUR DAY AT THE SEASIDE Summer Sips
In the Swim
Looking for the perfect wine for the season? These local experts weigh in with their top picks for summer.
Avabell Designs is the cult favourite, in-house swimwear line from Victoria’s Paradise Boutique. Made right here on the Island, each suit conveys old Hollywood glamour. “The designer Annie [Doherty] draws her inspiration from classic Hollywood actresses, such as Elizabeth Taylor, Carmen Miranda, Marilyn Monroe and Grace Kelly,” says boutique manager Emily Kennedy. “We take pride in dressing all shapes and sizes, driving home our shop slogan that ‘Every Body is a Bikini Body.’ Thanks to Avabell’s well-loved swimsuits, we have created a sort of cult following for women of all ages and shapes to come to Paradise to be fitted for a suit that will last five to 10 years.”
Unsworth Charme De L’ile Sparkling from the Cowichan Valley Pamela Sanderson, Hire A Somm
“I like this Prosecco-style sparkling [wine] from the Cowichan Valley for its quality, price and versatility. Made with Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Sauvignette grapes, this wine is wellbalanced with a soft fruitiness contrasted with a crisp freshness. This could be enjoyed any time on its own, with a variety of canapés or a lovely seafood salad.”
“We take pride in dressing all shapes and sizes.”
Marilyn top and Grace bottom
Life’s a Beach For Kim Robertson, the beach represents a lifestyle. At Beachology, her waterfront clothing and home décor boutique in Cowichan Bay, she carries unique wardrobe and décor items, sourced locally and globally. She wants to help bring a little bit of the beach wherever you go, for “that beach feel” without being kitschy. “I call it ‘barefoot luxe,’’’ Robertson says, describing the vibe of her store. “If it goes with a pair of jeans, it’s coming into my store. You can dress it up or dress it down. I like it feeling uncomplicated.”
Seven Directions Rosé from Summerland Marly Luton, bar director, The Livet
“In the summer, if I’m drinking wine, I need it to be dry and refreshing. The Provence-style Pinot Noir rosé from Seven Directions is pale in colour, dry and full of fruit, with a hint of salt and cream. Seven Directions is winemaker Daniel Bontorin’s rosé project, making smalllot rosés from single vineyards and varieties. Pairs well with spinach salad, salmon, fresh tuna — or any patio.”
Jon Derry, owner, The Collective Wine Bar & Kitchen
“Whenever I taste [La Frenz], it immediately makes me want to open a bottle with friends on the patio. It is a perfect summer wine! The Alexandria is nicely balanced between sweetness and acidity and has good complexity for the price. The nose has lovely hints of stone fruit, it has a great mouth feel and provides flavours of melon, citrus and tropical fruit with a beautifully smooth finish. I suggest pairing with oysters or roast chicken.”
It’s Only Natural Brooke De Armond of Bees + Bones created her line of locally made clothing when she couldn’t find enough sustainable clothing options in her community. She describes her designs as, “Simple and playful, a balance of feminine and easy shapes in natural linens, silks and cottons.” Her breezy designs take you from brunch to the beach, and then out for dinner. “The best pieces of clothing are the ones you want to wear all the time, so that’s what our clothing is designed for,” she says. “Lounging at home, wandering at the markets or dressed up with cute shoes for a night out.”
BELLE WHITE/YAM MAGAZINE
La Frenz Alexandria from Naramata Bench
YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2019
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HERE & NOW TASTES+TRENDS
SNOW IN THE FORECAST
Culinary Social Scene
Bingsoo, the Korean version of shaved ice, is the hottest way to cool off this summer.
By Athena McKenzie
T
BELLE WHITE/YAM MAGAZINE
he only way to describe shaved ice is ethereal — like a delicate snowflake melting on your tongue. An Asian invention hailing from Korea, Taiwan, Hawaii — and most recently Vancouver — shaved ice, or bingsoo, has now arrived in Victoria. Shaved ice is a frozen dessert like no other — not creamy gelato, granita or the crunchy snow cones of yore, but rather a fluffy pile of sweet, feathery icy shavings, as light as air.
At the new Snowy Village dessert café, you’ll find it heaped into a deep metal bowl like an exotic Asian sundae, generously topped with everything from fresh mangoes, melon balls and strawberries, to chewy little rice cakes, sweet red beans or matcha tea. The Vancouver-based chain makes its shaved ice Korean-style with a whole milk base, which gives the frozen dessert its creamy consistency. A warm, crispy contrast to the icy bingsoo is their other specialty, taiyaki, a crispy, fish-shaped waffle that’s filled with red beans, custard, sweet potatoes or Nutella. Unlike Hawaiian shaved ice — which is literally shaved from a block of plain ice and topped with a rainbow of gooey, sweet syrups — Korean bingsoo starts with blocks of lightly sweetened, milky ice. A powerful electric ice-shaving machine is used to create the fluffiest results. Today, even top chefs are scooping up the shaved ice trend, whether it’s foie gras kakigori at Maison in Paris or horchata-infused shaved ice at Majordomo in L.A. Victoria is home to several fine artisan ice cream and Italian gelato makers, and Korean bingsoo is another icy treat. Line up in the tiny Snowy Village café on Shelbourne Street to share a giant bowl, or get your shaved ice packed in one of their special, insulated bags for takeout. It may be sunny and warm, but there’s snow in the forecast! < Green tea bingsoo with red beans, traditional Korean rice cakes, castella, natural green tea, nut topping and shaved ice.
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YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2019
CHRISTIAN GIDEON/STOCKSY
By Cinda Chavich
The popularity of long table dining continues, and events — featuring communal tables laid with the best of local protein, produce and libations — are happening throughout the summer. The famed Farm to Table Dinner Series at Deerholme Farm in the Cowichan Valley is theme-based dining with a multicourse tasting menu based on local products and global cooking styles. Chef Bill Jones always incorporates foraged wild food for the ultimate local dining experience deerholme.com Oak Bay Beach Hotel’s third annual Winemaker’s Long Table Dinner Series runs throughout July and August. Each evening includes a reception in the stunning Seaside Gardens and a multicourse family-style dinner by executive chef Kreg Graham, served with British Columbia wines, which are presented and poured by guest winemakers and/or the winery owners. oakbaybeachhotel.com/events West Coast Brewery Tours hosts a nomadic Long Table Brewery tour, with long tables set up in three local breweries and paired food bites by Toque Catering. westcoastbrewerytours.ca
URBAN GARDEN
W
Consigned clothing, shoes, boots & bags for the fashion savvy woman
PHOTOS: BELLE WHITE/YAM MAGAZINE
hen Jordan Glowicki moved from a Salt Spring Island acreage to a condo in Victoria, there was one thing she couldn’t duplicate in her new urban space — her beloved garden. This inspired Glowicki, a certified organic master gardener, to create a garden box that would work for her new home and for other city dwellers. Her Boom Boxes are instant gardens for nongardeners. Each handmade cedar box comes fully planted using organic soil and organic fertilizer, and the plantings can be tailored to a customer’s needs. “Our city has lots of fantastic community gardens, but it’s just a start; it’s not enough,” Glowicki says. “Just look up at all the bare balconies. This is square footage you have paid for, so use it — and why not grow food you can eat and enjoy with friends and family?” boomgardens.com
Planting the Seed The Market Garden in Vic West is something of a throwback, reminiscent of an old-time general store — but one with a heightened design esthetic. “It’s a boutique market and urban farm in the middle of the city,” says owner Ryan Townsend. “We really want it to be an experience — for people to recognize that there really isn’t anything else like it.” Originally run from the back garden as a seed company, the store’s offerings have grown to include local produce, a dazzling array of spices, gourmet European goods and unique natural clothing and décor. A current focus is transitioning to zero-waste, and along with the returnable spice jars and refillable soaps, Townsend hopes to expand into cleaning products. “There’s a constant flow of new products, and the store is in constant evolution,” Townsend says. One thing that will never change? The ivory grand piano in the centre of the store, where locals can plunk out a tune and which is played by hired musicians during the holiday season. “It’s quite an experience to walk into a corner store and hear live piano music,” Townsend says. “It really takes it to another level.” | themarketgarden.ca
“It’s a boutique market and urban farm in the middle of the city.”
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HERE & NOW
Fresh Summer Style Natural is the new sexy, and these exquisite earthy products are sure to create a calming summer mood for any room in your home. By Danisha Drury Interior designer, founding partner & president of Design District Access
Boho Dreaming How about a stylish sleep in this gorgeous Lee Jofa king-size bed with its hand-applied bamboo? The frame design reminds us of warmer hemispheres, yet the look would also work right here on Vancouver Island in a boho-chic room design. OK, now it’s snuggle time.
Our in-depth knowledge of the market and personalized strategies will put you in the best possible position when buying or selling a home in Victoria.
Feeling Vogue There’s something so rich and sexy about natural materials. That’s why we’re in awe of this diamond-patterned Cosmopolitan wool carpet from Fibreworks’ Vogue collection. It’s 13 feet and 2 inches wide and as long as you need it to be — perfect as an area carpet or wall-to-wall. It comes in a stunning array of colours, including ivory-toned London Lights. Available at fibreworks.com
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Savour Pacific Northwest cuisine created by chef Sam Harris, while enjoying the spectacular waterfront views from the city’s newest fine dining restaurant, Boom + Batten, at the Victoria International Marina. Visit yammagazine.com for contest details and to enter. Contest ends Thursday, August 22, 2019.
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LOOKING FOR YOUR SOUL MATE?
Mother of Pearl This Aphrodite wall covering features a handcrafted veneer of layered round capiz shells. Easy to install, Aphrodite turns corners and has a stain‑resistant coating. Use it for walls, as a furniture inset, a backsplash, in a display case or to wrap columns. It’s so fresh and dreamy, we would like to use every application (including behind that bamboo bed frame), please and thank you. Available at mayorromanoff.com
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DAY TRIPPERS YAM loves local, so a field trip around the Saanich Peninsula made an ideal summer social for the Page One Publishing team. From tasting flights at Sea Cider Farm & Ciderhouse to a coffee tour at Level Ground Trading to artisanal cheese and wine at the Farmer’s Daughter and striking purple cocktails at Victoria Distillers, each stop deepened our awareness that this is an amazing locale to work — and play.
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IN PERSON
FIRST,
LIGHT Blu Smith once said of the nature of light, “Any way it can get through, it will find a way.” It’s a fitting metaphor for Smith, one of the West Coast’s best-known abstract artists, who is especially revered for the way he magically captures the luminous quality of light in his work. By Erin McIntosh Photos by Dean Azim
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I
n his sun-bathed North Saanich studio, Blu Smith has no trouble making a mess. There’s paint on the walls, paint on the floors, paint on his hands and clothes, but all that matters is the paint on the canvas. It’s an organized chaos of colour, textures and light. “Drips are everywhere, splatters are everywhere, that’s all part of it,” Smith says. “And I’m fine with that.” It’s here in his messy studio where the artist’s magic happens. Smith starts with a big, blank canvas. He prefers to work on larger canvases because the power in his pieces responds better to large scale, a preference he picked up in his early years working at a signage shop. The blank canvas is quickly covered with colour as Smith plans out a background colour scheme. He dilutes with a matte medium, using the big, broad strokes of a house painting brush, then wipes everything away with rags. “What ends up happening is [that] as the paint dries, the edges of the paint dry on the canvas first,” he says. “The inside of the big brush strokes are still wet. When I wipe it away, you’re left with these lines of where your major brush strokes went from. So it’s a little bit of a ghost image of those large brush strokes.” Using that as the framework, Smith begins to fill in certain areas with light, a signature component of his work.
FINDING HIS WAY
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Because he is so well known as an artist, it’s easy to believe Smith must have painted since his childhood. But as a young man growing up in the town of Vernon in the Okanagan, his eyes were set on the rink, not the canvas. He wanted to be a hockey player and he did play junior hockey, but when a motorcycle accident at age 18 forced him off the ice, he was left wondering what to do next. He had always been fond of art — and had spent much of his youth drawing — but it had never been a career option. Then, after receiving a push from a guidance counsellor to pursue art at Okanagan College in Kelowna, he went for it. “I was a young 19-year-old guy, and cocky as hell,” he recalls, “so I thought I knew everything because I could draw well, but I knew nothing about art.” Even though the program was a challenge, he stuck with it. In 1989, at age 21 and fresh out of the two-year art program in Kelowna, he moved to Victoria and found a sign shop job that challenged him artistically. He learned to be precise with a brush, to do detailed lettering and to paint large-scale murals. Without those skills, he says, his current nonrepresentational abstract pieces would not speak so loudly or shine so brightly. He decided to go to the University of Victoria to complete his fine arts degree, and while he admits he didn’t learn many
“I was a young 19-year-old guy, and cocky as hell, so I thought I knew everything because I could draw well, but I knew nothing about art.”
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new skills or lessons at university, one thing has stuck with him his whole life: “The most valuable thing I learned in art school was being able to paint for eight hours a day,” he says. It’s something he still practices today.
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EXPLORING THE ABSTRACT Smith started to show at galleries and began experimenting with different styles, including pop art and realism, but he still felt continually unfulfilled, like he hadn’t tapped into his creative potential. Abstract art had always been in the back of his mind, but in school, he had been very vocal about his disdain for it. “There was always something about the abstract artists I was curious about, but I hated at the same time,” Smith says. Eventually, he decided to explore that curiosity. What he found was what he had been looking for: an outlet for his creativity. He loosened up. He threw paint around. It was challenging and liberating and exactly what he needed. Over the next few years, he experimented, creating hundreds of abstract pieces. He found himself inspired by the abstract expressionists of the 40s and 50s: Jackson Pollock, Mark Rothko, Franz Kline. And while Smith had always been under the impression that these artists had started out painting abstractly, he soon discovered that, much like the path he found himself on, they too were trained in other disciplines and later chose to follow abstraction. Abstract art, he says, has moved him in ways that realism and technical artwork couldn’t. He hasn’t looked back. Over time, Smith’s simple abstract drawings developed. “I would start bringing in uses of light into these 2D abstracts, which is something different; you don’t normally see light emulating out of abstract works. I started to play around with that, and little bits of nature started to come into my abstract work. It was just little snapshots that I would take in my mind from waking up in the morning and seeing the sunrise.” This went on for a good 15 years. But sunrises he watched from his hillside home with a view of Mount Baker have been replaced in his work with rays of light dancing through trees in the lush, forested area of the Peninsula where Smith and his family moved six years ago. Slowly but surely, the Douglas fir and other trees he looked at every day began seeping into his artwork, taking him down an exploratory path of abstract landscapes. Now he spends his time moving between abstract landscapes and the pure abstracts. “It keeps things fresh ... ,” Smith says. He takes liberties with his art that he says most traditional landscape artists don’t do. His work shines with uncommon colour combinations, broad brush strokes and
interpretative images, leaving it up to the viewer to decipher what’s really going on behind the paint.
IMAGINATION REQUIRED Every day at 7:30 a.m., Smith steps out of his house, crosses his yard and heads into his studio, also known as the Lighthouse. The 1,200-square-foot building in his backyard was built with intention two years ago. Everything is sectioned off: one side for building, with tools, boxes and extra canvases, and one side for creating. The floors are concrete, the walls white and the windows big, allowing waves of light to wash over his art. Smith has been a full-time painter for seven years now, which had been his goal ever since finishing art school. Today, he’s represented in seven galleries across North America and Europe, from Gallery 133 in Toronto to Saatchi Art in Los Angeles, and has exhibited his work in Canada, the U.S., Europe and the United Arab Emirates. The West End Gallery in Victoria took on Smith’s work in February, based on his colourful work and his symbiotic relationship with the artists at the West End Gallery in Edmonton. “He’s a very talented painter, and when he does a painting, he doesn’t really spend a lot of time in terms of detailing it; he attacks it with vigour and it explodes into a beautiful composition,” says Dan Hudon, director and co-owner of the West End Gallery in Victoria. “His work is very interesting because there’s a bit of an imagination required.” The gallery currently represents 45 different artists, all on a permanent basis. Colour is a strong theme throughout, a characteristic so strongly defined in Smith’s work. “We can put Blu Smith next to Paul Jorgensen, and there’s no friction at all,” Hudon says. “It’s just the freeness of his work that impresses people because it’s so loose and the colours all come together,” Hudon adds. “If you hang one in your home, it’ll make a statement on that wall. Other artists don’t seem to have that magnetism, where you really are attracted to it, and he will explode all the way across the room.”
HOME AND HARMONY Back in his North Saanich studio, Smith is currently putting together work for a gallery in Mykonos, Greece. He always has projects on the go, and between painting and taking care of his family, it can be tough to find downtime. Despite his packed schedule, Smith says that being an artist is the only job that has ever given him happiness. And while there is chaos splattered on the canvas, there’s also harmony and balance. It’s not about perfection or precision; it’s about an overall feeling. Before putting a brush down, Smith ensures the line work is strong, the light is shining through and, most importantly, “the colours need to be singing.”
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Introducing FED, Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s First Food Eco District Let us introduce you to the Food Eco District (FED), an organization that is creating a downtown hub that celebrates both local food and sustainability. Found in the heart of downtown Victoria, FED is located within the borders of Johnson and Broughton, between Quadra and Douglas streets. FED is the go-to destination for sustainable food, full of diverse eateries, and a growing number of edible gardens. Through its certification program, FED helps restaurants reduce their environmental footprint.
Founded by a group of local restauranteurs in 2013, FED has grown to include 15 sustainable dining destinations in Victoria. Participating restaurants within our Downtown Victoria core are Agrius, Dak, Dutch Bakery, Fishhook, Foo Asian Street Food, Habit Coffee, Tacofino, The Livet, The Very Good Butchers, Yalla, and Zambriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. To find out more visit www.get-fed.ca.
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Family-run Puerto Vallarta Amigos, downtown Victoria’s first food truck, has made a permanent stop at the Bay Centre, joining the Centre’s 19 eateries. Foodie recommendation: Authentic Baja style prawn tacos with fresh pico de gallo, best paired on the Bay Centre’s sundrenched food court patio. THE BAY CENTRE 1150 Douglas Street | thebaycentre.ca
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HOME & LIFESTYLE
A Hamptons Style Haven A Cobble Hill reno transforms a dated bed and breakfast into a New York-style estate. By Danielle Pope Photos by Joshua Lawrence
This page: The living room is an area of pride for Nanos, with vaulted and coffered ceilings adding elegance to the home. The space is inviting, though visitors will have to compete with the family dog, Marley, for the best chair. Large bay windows open to the lake, creating the perfect frame for summertime parties or holiday celebrations around a Christmas tree. Previous page: The homeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dark exterior was transformed from a cabin-in-thewoods bed and breakfast to a New York-style estate. Massive trees were removed to allow in more light, and the patio and pathways were refinished to add visual interest to the expansive property â&#x20AC;&#x201D; an area Nanos walks daily with her son. The weathered shingles were redone, with trim painted white, and circular windows were added to create a Cowichan country feel.
E
li Nanos never imagined she’d build her dream house in the country. She was three months pregnant when her husband, Drew, discovered the seven-acre property in Cobble Hill. It was beautiful but had an eclectic style: one part vineyard, one part bed-and-breakfast and two parts cabin-in-the-woods. As the cofounder of Ivyhouse Design, Nanos was looking for something a little more … The Hamptons. She’d dreamed of having her own white picket fence with all the trimmings and, as her family expanded, she wanted her nest to reflect the styles she’d helped others discover. Yet there was something about the property that breathed sophisticated potential. It had a picturesque two-and-a-half-acre man-made lake, a private drive and was surrounded by acreage, forests and neighbouring vineyards. Though it was hard to see at first — through galleried bedrooms, closed off gathering spaces and the private kitchen — the house’s bones were solid. Nanos imagined, with a few adjustments, the home could be the phoenix they were looking for — without the New York price tag. “This home really came to us, and sometimes when you see an opportunity you just have to jump on it,” she says. “We could see the house had potential and we both thought, ‘Why not?’ ” Before they’d even closed the deal, Nanos began drafting plans. As soon as they took possession and moved into the guest cottage, construction began. Nanos was seven months pregnant. Within four months, the house was completed. Today, the home looks like a dream straight out of The Hamptons. With white siding, cedar shakes and circular windows in the gables, the house has claimed its elegance by the lake.
FINDING TRUE POTENTIAL The home’s biggest transformation was the vaulting of the living room and master bedroom ceilings — a task made possible due to the empty space in the dormers above. A hallway was removed to expand the kitchen (which was gifted an archway), and open the living area. Oversized windows reveal views to the water, and the house’s maple floors were redone with knotted wide-plank white oak. This design process comes naturally to Nanos. From a young age, she’d been designing interiors, even turning her childhood bedroom into a “house,” complete with a kitchen, bedroom and living room she’d constantly rearrange. Her parents encouraged her creativity. Now, the magic of this home is in its rearranged details. “The details in a home are what’s most important to me,” says Nanos. Those small nuances can easily be overlooked, but I love being able to add them. “This house is a reflection of our family’s personality — I feel like we brought out its true potential.”
“This house is a reflection of our family’s personality — I feel like we brought out its true potential.”
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Keeping it Simple®
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The 18-foot vaulted ceilings are adorned with circular lights and a tongue-and-groove pattern, which adds grandeur to the space. Wainscoting, coffered ceilings, bay windows and window seats in the dining room highlight its elaborate nature. Nanos says watching the light reflect off the water and onto the ceiling when she’s lying in bed fills her with peace. With a basement that includes wine tasting, fly-tying and billiards spaces, the 4,500-squarefoot house is heavy on relaxation. The coach house adds an additional 850 square feet, perfect for guests.
A FAMILY FEEL SCAN ME
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Bank. Borrow. Insure. Invest.
Project foreman Bill Morris of Timberhawk Homebuilders says collaborating on creative details, like the stairwell’s wooden handrails and sculpted newel posts, was a treat. “The house originally had a rustic, disjointed feel. With a renovation like this,
Surfboards at Winchester Galleries? Really!
even though you may be confined to the layout, the right design can change it entirely,” says Morris. “We wanted the house to feel like a family home — not a hotel.” Nanos’ favourite spot in the house is the oversized leather chair in their master bedroom. It’s in this chair that Nanos, Drew and their son Rory read books together every night before bed. As the sun sets on the water, she says it’s a magical time to be there. The gazebo overlooking the lake is another favourite hangout. Nanos’ dad helped her husband Drew build it last summer, and friends gather there to enjoy the view and sip local wine by the dock. “We wanted this home to be a place [where] people we love feel welcome to come and swim, and sit by the lake, and bike to the wineries or walk through the forest and just relax. We wanted our own everyday retreat,” says Fast. “I feel proud of what we’ve created. It’s my favourite project yet.”
The dining area was opened to take it from a gallery to gathering place. Nanos hosts family and friend gatherings here, and she sometimes uses the room as a work space when plans need to be spread across a big table with a lakeside view. The window seats are used frequently by Nanos and her son to watch deer grazing in the nearby farmer’s field.
Tim Bessell Surfboards licensed by Andy Warhol
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Above: It may be hard for Nanos to pick a favourite spot in this house, but the big Timothy Oulton leather chair in her master bedroom is a sure bet. The oversized chair is where she and her husband and son read books every night before bed, and it’s one of the best places in the house to catch the sunset off the water. The master bath, with its morning sun, is Nanos’ at-home retreat. Three types of tile accent this space, from C&S Tile in the white Tulip Series used on the floor in a herringbone layout, to Dal Tile in Arctic White used as trim for the wall, and GL Stone Double Basketweave in Thassos White and Carrara for the shower and wall insert.
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The kitchen is where this family spends the most time, and Nanos’ husband, Drew, is often found crafting homemade pasta — after buying local produce at the market — while Nanos enjoys a glass of Cowichan wine. The archway was a special splurge to take this room from service area to heart of the home. The space is welcoming and bright, and dual islands allow everyone to feel comfortable taking part. The globe pendant lamps by Minka, from Mclaren Lighting, enhance the luxurious look, and complement the kitchen’s stainless steel appliances.
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This page: Backyard barbecues and wine tastings with a lake view are common at the Nanos household. The patio was redone in concrete slabs to offer a spacious landing for outdoor events, and the kitchen’s double doors open directly into this area for easy access. Opposite page: The family spends most days hanging out at the lake, fly fishing or swimming. The gazebo was made by Nanos’ father and husband last summer, and offers a glorious spot to sit and enjoy a glass of wine while taking in the surrounding farm fields and the view of Salt Spring Island.
RESOURCES CONTRACTOR: Timberhawk Homebuilders | CONSTRUCTION MANAGER: Bill Morris | INTERIOR DESIGNER: Eli Nanos, Ivyhouse Design ENGINEER: John Scott, Scott Engineering | DOORS AND HARDWARE: Slegg Building Materials | TILE AND NEW FLOORS: Pristine Hardwood and Stone PAINTING: Word of Mouth Painting | COUNTERS: Sam Dhaliwel, GNS Granite and Quartz | CUSTOM MILLWORK: Splinters Millworks FINISH CARPENTRY: Timberhawk Homebuilders | LANDSCAPE: Yorkshire Landscapes | PAVER: Jason Edler
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Life, philosophy and the art of sipping in the Cowichan Valley. By Linda Barnard // Photos by Belle White
Steeped in Nature
Margit Nellemann of Westholme Tea Company
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here’s nowhere else in Canada that this path exists,” says tea grower Victor Vesely as we walk the path between short, terraced rows of squat bushes covered in leathery, serrated-edge leaves. It sounds a bit over the top. Isn’t every path unique? But this view is undeniably special, overlooking a row of robust tea bushes planted in 2010 in Vancouver Island’s bounteous Cowichan Valley. Westholme Tea Company’s fledgling tea estate, run by Vesely and his wife, ceramic artist Margit Nellemann, is turning heads in the tea world. About 10,000 visitors a year come to the farm and tea room just outside Duncan to travel the world — including the Cowichan Valley — via tea. The 800 evergreen bushes growing in this shallow valley are the same Camellia sinensis plants whose leaves have been plucked, processed and drunk as tea beginning thousands of years ago in East Asia. This connection to tea history and tradition is the foundation for Westholme, a place whose spirit makes it hard to resist.
TEA AND TERROIR Soft-spoken and earnest, Vesely is a compelling storyteller. He says he’s been given the nickname “the Daoist raconteur” for being “the guy who tells stories but doesn’t do anything.” While the raconteur part fits, the suggestion of a lack of endeavour doesn’t. Vesely and Nellemann are devoted to their self-taught work of tea growing, processing and blending. Vesely says their learning has been marked by “valuable mistakes.” Although it seems all practical knowledge is just a Google search away, Nellemann says there was very little available online when they started out. It was challenging to find information. They turned to other tea growers, tea experts and books. That’s changing as tea growing becomes more popular, especially in the American South. “You can even grow tea bushes in your own garden here, with the right conditions,” he says. Success is growing along with Westholme’s tea. More bushes were planted in 2014 and 2015, and there are plans to add 1,200 more. The plants are gradually developing a taste profile as the roots extend, reflecting the soil, wind and weather of the Vancouver Island region where they are growing. Like wine, tea has a terroir. Signature flavours depend on many things, including growing elevation and time of the year when the tea is harvested (plucked). No two harvests taste exactly the same. Vesely and Nellemann moved to this former YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2019
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dairy farm from Vancouver in 2003, seeking a more restorative pace and a rural lifestyle. Nellemann, who was raised on a fruit farm in her native Denmark, has worked as a chef. She’s also a ceramics artist. Vesely was in communications and coaching in the environmental field. They started out with Artfarm, growing herbs, flowers, vegetables and lavender for market, combining the agri-business with Nellemann’s ceramics studio. Both are tea lovers. Vesely had spent time in Japan and China, becoming a self-taught tea connoisseur and blender. Nellemann has a robust palate, a deep understanding of flavour and a chef’s knowledge of both blending and culinary uses for teas.
“The eyes of the tea world had been on us, and it was really important that we didn’t compromise on quality or make it a gimmick.”
Margit Nellemann (left) and Mackenzie Cleaves picking tea at Westholme Tea Company’s farm.
TRYING TO GROW Tea bushes thrive in many places in the world at high elevations, where it is cooler at night and warm during the day. Perhaps it could work, they thought at the time. But Island winters would push the plants, and the summers can be warmer than the 20 to 25 Celsius where the bushes are happiest. Nellemann and Vesely ripped out their lavender plants, building an earthen terrace to plant the first tea seedlings. They were committed to growing tea with a Canadian flavour profile. It would be different from any other tea in the world,
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establishing a bona fide regional tea culture. Turns out, Camellia sinensis can handle the stress of a Vancouver Island winter. Nellemann and Vesely resisted the urge to pluck when the plants reached maturity at five years, giving them another year to grow. “The eyes of the tea world had been on us, and it was really important that we didn’t compromise on quality or make it a gimmick,” says Vesely. Six years after the tea bushes went into the ground, they plucked their first flush, or growth, creating Westholme Tea Company’s debut tea in 2016 with Tree Frog Green. Swallow Tale Oolong came next. All varieties of tea come from the same Camellia sinensis plant. Processing determines if it will be green, oolong, white or black. Westholme produced the first three varieties for its seven teas made from the estate-grown tea plants. They’ll make their first black tea this year. The bushes are tipped with tiny green shoots on this spring morning as Vesely leads the way along the terraces, planted on hills along the driveway.
A SECRET SENSIBILITY
TEA TRUTHS • Green, black, oolong or white? All tea comes from the same plant, Camellia sinensis. • Processing determines what variety of tea it becomes for your cup. • Oxidation is the key. Think of the browning that happens to apple slices left on a counter. • Green tea has no oxidization. It’s plucked, and heat is applied right away, usually by steaming. • Black tea is fully oxidized using heat and humidity. A wok or oven is often used. • Oolong is 40 to 80 per cent oxidized, while white tea, the least-oxidized variety, is often air-dried. • Tea leaves can be rubbed, bruised or smoked to give them different flavours.
Little Sicker Mountain, Mount Prevost and Mount Richards ring the farm, making it feel like a secret place. A tall wall of golden bamboo leads to the small tea room and shop
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in the one-time barn. Nellemann’s drip-glazed ceramic spheres and globes are placed in the gardens. It’s green and peaceful. Faint wood smoke from the stove inside blends with the rich leathery-floral aroma of osmanthus flowers in the garden. A sign reads: “Steeped in nature.” Vesely and a neighbour transformed the former dairy barn into an airy tea room. There’s also a studio where Nellemann makes ceramics, including fanciful teapots that wouldn’t be out of place in the pages of a Dr. Seuss book. The former milking parlour is her retail showroom. Nellemann’s elegantly rustic drinking cups have slight indentations, raised surfaces and swirling designs, pleasing to hold as well as to admire while sipping tea. In addition to growing and processing Westholme estate teas, Nellemann and Vesely import high-quality loose teas from around the world to sell as individual teas, or in one of their unique blends. More than 100 teas and herbal tisanes are served by the pot for one, or larger versions for sharing. Nellemann’s ceramic cups, bowls and teapots are part of the drinking ritual. Fresh flowers are arranged in tall ceramic vases, also made by her. Like the teapots, the cylinders have whimsical little feet, inspired by the couple’s dachshunds, Magnus and Thea. Customers come to buy teas or ceramics, or to sit over a pot of tea by the
This page: In Westholme’s tea shop, customers can purchase loose tea, tea bags and tea accessories, as well as experience a tea tasting. Right: Employee Rollanda Denomme samples matcha cheesecake with her tea, which is served in a handmade pot created by Margit Nellemann. Tea pairings in the tea room include chocolate (shown here), cheese plates and cakes.
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wood stove or in the garden. There’s a menu of sweet and savoury snacks from Duncan caterer Michelle Plain of Art to Eat. Most have tea as an ingredient. The menu suggests tea pairings.
CREATED TO SHARE Sharing and community are key to the farm and the enjoyment of tea, Nellemann says. So we share a pot of a remarkable Maple Smoked Green, made from tea grown and processed just a few metres from our table. Vesely was inspired by pine-smoked Chinese Lapsang souchong tea when he created Maple Smoked Green. He was seeking “a true Canadian experience,” using Westholme-grown green tea and tea bush twigs that had suffered, yet survived, winter damage. The tea is cold smoked over Bigleaf maple chips from a tree taken down on the farm, giving the brew a gentle smoky and faint maple-sweet flavour. Vesely carries the tea service to the table. The steeping tea is presented in a science lab beaker “to honour the experimental nature of it.” It also makes it easy to see the mix of leaves and twigs and to admire the rich amber colour. Once steeped, Vesely transfers the liquid into a Nellemann teapot to be poured into her V-shaped cups, designed expressly for drinking the Maple Smoked Green. V for Victor Vesely and V to concentrate the aroma and flavour. What does Cowichan Valley tea taste like? YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2019
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Nellemann describes it as vivacious with a nice astringency that shows in a gentle pull at the jawline. Vesely says there are “hints of muscatel” in the green teas. Some are more tannic. “There’s a softness and a subtlety to all of the teas,” he says. “They don’t push heavily in bitterness.” He describes them as inviting and approachable. “That’s part of the Canadian experience too,” he says, talking about how the hardy plants overcome winter. He pauses and looks a bit sheepish. “It sounds a bit patchouli woo-woo,” he says with a chuckle. But why not? We pick up forks to share a slice of creamy, pale green matcha cheesecake with a hazelnut crust from the tea pairing menu. The sweetness balances well against the smoky tea.
LAND OF BUDS AND LEAVES
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Nellemann is pleased that local and international “tea geeks” seek them out and that tea growers and experts from around the world have come to the farm. Newcomers to tea are just as welcome as the experts, says Nellemann. Even if loose tea intimidates them, even if all they’ve ever had in their cups is Red Rose. “For us, tea is pleasure and enjoyment,” she says. “Enjoy it the way you want to have it. Don’t be embarrassed that you like a really good black tea and you want to put milk in it.” But if you want to explore or experiment, the tea room is a good place to start, especially
The fine art of waterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s edge dining. 250 598 8555 | marinarestaurant.com | 1327 Beach Drive Clockwise from top: The tea room at Westholme opens up into a gallery of pottery created by Margit Nellemann; the ceramic artist makes her creations by hand without a pottery wheel. Her pieces, such as this tea cup, are used to serve tea in the tea room and are also available for purchase.
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“Enjoy it the way you want to have it. Don’t be embarrassed that you like a really good black tea and you want to put milk in it.”
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since you will be helped by tea room staff. Vesely refers to them as family. When the first flush happens, they also participate in the pluck. “The staff have the privilege of standing on the slopes and plucking tea and connecting with tea from all over the world,” he says. The pluck happens three times a year at Westholme. A perfect pluck is two leaves and a bud. Pale green and fragile, it takes a sizable amount to get any volume. Vesely says a kilogram of Darjeeling tea (plucked from the Camellia sinensis variety Camellia sinensis assamica) has 10,000 bud sets. Westholme’s tea plants yield about eight kilograms of tea, which explains why prices start at $25 for 10 grams. That’s if you can get it. The teas are almost always sold out, although you can sip a cup or share a pot of what’s available in the tea room. “The rare tea collectors don’t take us seriously because we’re not expensive enough,” Vesely says. “And some people walk in here and have a coronary [at the price] and go, ‘What?’” Vesely and Nellemann are also working with local chefs, making tea leaves and flowers available for culinary use. Last year they partnered with Hudson’s on First restaurant in Duncan to celebrate the spring harvest with a teamakers’ dinner. Sheringham Distillery’s award-winning Kazuki Gin uses Westholme’s green tea and tea bush flowers. Boom + Batten Restaurant at Victoria’s International Marina will be serving Westholme’s teas, including their own signature house blend. There are plans to expand the estate, adding another 2,200 tea bushes.
BEAUTY OF THE BUD Back amidst the tea plants, Vesely shows me how to pluck the ideal two leaves and a bud from the soft, new green growth. I follow his example. “You see the beauty of the bud coming through, and I’m going to invite you to take that and do something that most people will never experience in their lives, and that’s to go ahead and eat it,” Vesely says. We pluck and chew. It tastes a bit creamy, like a green hazelnut; slightly bitter and then sweet. I recall a 1970s television ad for Red Rose Tea. Haughty British tea drinkers sip the Canadianmade blend, love it and are crestfallen when told it’s only available in Canada. “Pity,” comes the reply. And now Canada has its own home-grown tea. How wonderful.
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YAM
Best Restaurants 2019
Meet the Judges
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Takashi Ito
Cinda Chavich
David Mincey
Takashi Ito, chef at the Inn at Laurel Point’s AURA Waterfront Restaurant + Patio, is passionate about food and eating out. Japanese born and raised, Chef Ito has mentored and developed many budding chefs in his 26 years of being an executive chef for brands like the Fairmont and Radisson hotels in both Ottawa and Calgary. Victoria has been Chef Ito’s home for 16 years. He and his wife thoroughly enjoy eating out in the city’s ever-growing and diverse restaurant culture.
Cinda Chavich is YAM’s food writer. Cinda is a long-time, award-winning journalist, cookbook author and a former Calgary Herald food editor and CBC radio food columnist. She writes about food, restaurants, chefs and travel as a freelance writer for a variety of publications, from EAT and Vitis to The Globe and Mail. This curious reporter and storyteller is always investigating the next big food idea, uncovering the tastiest restaurants and searching for the best local ingredients for her next meal.
David Mincey founded Camille’s Restaurant in Victoria in 1989, serving as its chef and co-owner with his wife Paige for the next 24 years. Camille’s gained an international reputation for leading-edge cuisine and was a pioneer in the farm-to-table food movement. In 1999 David co-founded the Island Chefs’ Collaborative and served as its president for three years. David is also recognized as one of Canada’s leading chocolate experts, running the Chocolate Project, a bean-to-bar retail store in the Victoria Public Market.
YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2019
The people have spoken. Victoria’s vibrant restaurant scene is vast but, with the help of your nominations, our panel of chefs and food experts have again identified the city’s best chefs, spaces and concepts to celebrate. Herewith, YAM’s 2019 Best Restaurant Awards — let the dining begin! By Cinda Chavich Photos by Jeffrey Bosdet
I
t’s been another big year in Victoria’s exciting dining scene. Ever punching above its weight, our small city has big culinary chops, with chefs, butchers, bakers and food producers who continue to raise the bar higher when it comes to eating out, at every level. Many local food businesses have been in renovation and expansion mode over the past year. Chef Castro Boateng has turned his busy new catering kitchen in Langford into a popular dining and event spot, and there are now second locations for Fishhook and Island Poke. A recent reno at La Taqueria downtown means there’s now table service and a bartender shaking up margaritas. Saveur has upped their already stellar culinary game with some stylish new décor to match. Clif Leir and his team at Fol Epi/Agrius recently announced plans to re-launch the vintage diner at Paul’s Motor Inn with an all-organic menu, complete with natural wines, reviving a real local icon for the modern world. Andrew Mavor and the talented team at Hanks have spread out into the hidden courtyard next door with a sister spot, Nowhere, expanding its creative take on local ingredients into the seafood side of things. And the folks from Habit Coffee have brought the city Sherwood, a stylish morning-to-night dining space designed to gather the growing community of downtown dwellers for coffee, cocktails and shared plates. Cook and Pan Polish Delicatessen has moved into the weekend brunch scene, building on its reputation as a purveyor
of some of the city’s best bacon. The suburban Artisan Bistro has also added breakfast to the bill with a second location, Artisan Café, downtown on Fort Street. Our taste for Korean cuisine continues to blossom thanks to restaurateur Shawn Lee and new hot spots like the sultry E:Né Raw Bar (with it’s incredible sake selection, said to be the best in the country) and Cera, a buzzy space next to the new bridge. Both follow on the heels of his successful Nubo Japanese Tapas and showcase the work of local designers. French food has a strong following here. Think Brasserie L’Ecole, Vis à Vis, The Courtney Room, Saveur — and there’s more French food and baking — including lovely croissants and crepes at the little Joie French Café in North Park. Looking beyond our urban borders, it’s the year to again tip our hats to the fine chefs in Tofino. Chef Paul Moran of 1909 Kitchen (Tofino Resort + Marina) just brought the Top Chef Canada crown to the Island. And though we lost OLO chef Carmen Ingham to his new gig as executive chef at The Wickaninnish Inn, the gain is former Wick chef Warren Barr’s fabulous new Pluvio restaurant + rooms in Ucluelet (as chef Richard Norwood retires), with four elegant guest rooms for destination diners, set to open soon. So Island food continues to expand and evolve in this city of creative foodpreneurs. It was a challenge for our panel of judges to choose their favourites for our Best Restaurant Awards, but we’ve tasted our way to bring you our winners for 2019. Bon appetit!
Bill Jones
Daniela Cubelic
Mandy Hamilton, Awards Facilitator
Bill Jones is the chef/owner of Deerholme Farm on Vancouver Island. Bill is a French-trained chef who has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe and a few other stops around the world. He combines his love of nature and history in his work and is the author of 12 cookbooks on a wide range of subjects, including foraging and wild mushrooms. His latest book, The Deerholme Vegetable Cookbook, was shortlisted for the 2016 Taste Canada Awards.
Daniela Cubelic is founder and chief tea ambassador of Silk Road, which has locations in both Victoria and Vancouver. Known as “Canada’s Queen of Tea” (The Globe & Mail), she is an authority on tea and tea culture and is an accomplished tea master, trained by Chinese and Taiwanese herbalists and tea masters. While trained in tea’s most ancient traditions, she has also forged new frontiers in tea, from cooking with tea to food pairings, creating tea cocktails and incorporating tea into Silk Road’s skin and bodycare products.
Mandy Hamilton started her career by training in both culinary and pastry arts at the Dubrulle French Culinary School. In 2007, after 10 years in fine-dining kitchens in Vancouver, she transitioned into event planning and sales at Culinary Capers Catering. In 2018, she established Hamilton Events Victoria, a corporate event-planning company. A member of Les Dames d’Escoffier, Mandy is enjoying exploring the Victoria food scene as it continues to fuel her passion for all things food, cooking and, of course, eating.
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Restaurant of theYear Saveur
To choose YAM’s Restaurant of the Year, our judges looked beyond the requisite outstanding culinary artistry and delicious food — they sought the innovative and unforgettable. Along with executing all the details that create a flawless dining experience, the winner had to demonstrate passion and support for the local food industry, and display consistency and excellence in every part of the business.
S
aveur is a small, 30-seat restaurant on the upper end of Chinatown that oozes big-city style. An exposed brick wall, partly painted in shimmery pewter, soars to high ceilings punctuated with the bling of modern chandeliers. There are artisan-made black walnut tables with eye-popping red chairs to contrast with the charcoal walls that frame the open kitchen. That’s where you’ll usually find chef/owner Robert Cassels, a charming 31-year-old with a warm smile and relaxed manner that belies the kind of technical, contemporary cuisine that is his stock-in-trade. Cassels opened Saveur on a shoestring four years ago, doing much of the work on his own to turn the derelict boot factory into a fine dining room. A recent refresh of the décor — with additions like noise-baffling ceiling panels and a living wall of herbs behind the bar — are a testament to the success he’s had making Saveur a top table for discerning diners. “Saveur really blew me away; lots of flavours I love and well-executed plates,” wrote one of the chefs on our judging panel. “I like the exploration of local ingredients and the strong influence of modern cooking styles.” Cassels’ foundation in French cooking and service began when he was a teenager, working in his godparents’ French restaurant (the former Antoine’s) in Victoria. Though largely self-taught,
On the cover: Saveur’s Sun Wing Farm Tomatoes with smoked tomato, miner’s lettuce, walnut goat cheese and fermented maple blossom.
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YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2019
Chef/Owner Robert Cassels
Cassels has developed his own style, influenced by stages in Paris and with the late Charlie Trotter in Chicago, then working with Victoria chef and caterer David Feys. “I cook every service, which is quite rare,” he says, noting his love of Island ingredients, especially seasonal vegetables. “My dishes are very component based — I like my sauces and purées, vegetable reductions and emulsions.” A great way to experience Cassels’ creativity is through his five-course tasting menus, a journey through the fresh and wild foods of the moment, paired with local wines. A recent offering ranged from a raw marinated scallop with oyster emulsion and compressed cucumber to his local pork belly and octopus plate with black garlic jus, the Cowichan Valley pork brined for two days and slowly cooked for six hours in his “mother braise.” There’s even an inspired vegetarian tasting menu (available with 24-hours-advance notice). “I like my tasting menus to be a progression of flavours and textures,” says Cassels. “I
especially enjoy cooking with vegetables — they offer such extraordinary variation.” Or opt for the à la carte offerings — start with a snack of chilled soba noodles with miso mushrooms, a duck spring roll or crispy chickpeas with Parmesan and cilantro, then have his Asian-inspired beef carpaccio with cured egg yolk, local asparagus with leek ash and salsa verde, wilted mustard greens with wild mushrooms and grilled fingerlings or fresh Haida Gwaii pan roasted halibut with maitake mushrooms, nettle velouté and jalapeño vinaigrette. You’ll notice the local provenance of various menu items, from the Island farmers, foragers and fishers Cassels visits regularly to source his fresh vegetables, meats and seafood. “I love wild foods — mushrooms, miner’s lettuce, spruce tips — and my goal this year is to expand my reach to new small farms,” he says. Whatever inspires this hard-working and innovative young chef next will no doubt be delicious.
2nd Place
3rd Place
OLO
Wild Mountain Food & Drink Wild Mountain’s Housemade Charcuterie, served with pickles and crostini.
OLO’s Lamb Trio with falafel, hakurei turnips, favas, wheatgrass and liquorice jus.
The evolution of fine food and creative cocktails continues at OLO, the downtown dining spot devoted to all things Vancouver Island. Chef/owner Brad Holmes directs every detail here, from sourcing the hyperlocal farm- and forest-to-table ingredients, to designing the restaurant’s creative plates and even its distinctive fir veneer chandeliers. In the kitchen, chef Mark Classen executes the seasonal à la carte and tasting menus, whether it’s the charcoal-grilled sablefish collar, smoky salmon and beets with spruce yogurt or potato gnocchi with wild mushrooms, black garlic and snap peas. Expect seamless service, fine dining and fresh food with some urbane Island style.
Partners in business and life, chef Oliver Kienast and Brooke Fader opened Wild Mountain Food & Drink with one goal in mind — to showcase the finest local, seasonal, organic and wild ingredients and to support the people who produce them. Whether it’s the house-made charcuterie, featuring pork from Stillmeadow Farm, or the wild stinging nettle and asparagus soup with humpback shrimp and miner’s lettuce foraged nearby, it’s food with a true sense of place. Set in a cottage overlooking the Sooke harbour, and surrounded by edible gardens, this is an inspired, chef-driven destination with a menu that’s sure to surprise you.
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Your partner for tomorrow
With over 100 years of experience in foodservice and a truly collaborative working style, we partner with our customers from the same side of the table to gain a true understanding of their businesses and needs. By listening actively and thoughtfully, we help them connect with new customers, rethink the road ahead, and do better business at every turn.
Congratulations to all the nominees and winners of the 2019 YAM Best Restaurant Awards
Chef of the Year Castro Boateng, House of Boateng Castro Boateng has been flying under the radar for awhile, but with his new café in Langford, he’s soared into our top chef spot. Born in Ghana and schooled in Toronto, Boateng has worked with top chefs from Scotland and Bermuda to Banff. He humbly credits his mentors with fostering his work ethic and inspiring his fresh, vegetable-forward style, evident on every creative plate at his eponymous café, House of Boateng. “We want to represent where we are, and where we are from,” says Boateng of the dishes that combine local seasonal ingredients and wild foods with world flavours and skilled craftsmanship. “We wanted to create something relaxed, but have really fine food and pay respect to all of the local producers.” It all impressed our judges who praised Boateng as “a talented chef and a wonderful leader and teacher,” and one “long overdue for recognition.”
RUNNERS UP Kunal Ghose, Fishhook, Fishhook at Mermaid Wharf, Dobosala Cantina & Ride Thru Ken Hookham, Q at the Empress
Best Fine Dining Saveur
Saveur’s Scallop with crispy sea asparagus, compressed cucumber, tarragon oil and oyster emulsion.
At Saveur, fine dining is in the details, many of them orchestrated and delivered by chef/owner Robert Cassels. Whether it’s the elegant tasting menus or the playful brunch offerings (like his riff on a fast food breakfast sandwich with duck bacon and confit on house-made English muffins), this chef has thought through each step of the experience. The narrow space, with its high ceilings and exposed brick, is both elegant and urbane. The cuisine is inspired, both by Cassels’ ongoing connections with Island farmers and his love of seasonal ingredients. His fresh style ranges from rustic to tightly technical, and his vegetableforward plates are beautiful to behold. It’s been six years since Cassels envisioned his own restaurant and our judges say he’s now firing on all cylinders, describing Saveur as “a well-oiled machine.” Wrote one judge: “It offers clear direction of concept, a passion for excellence and is consistent and reliable.”
RUNNERS UP The Courtney Room | OLO YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2019
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DEAN BOUSFIELD, Owner/Contractor/Foodie
Best New Restaurant House of Boateng It’s appropriate that chef Castro Boateng’s new café and catering kitchen has “house” in the name, for there’s nothing this chef enjoys more than bringing people together. “Gathering people has always been part of my life,” he says. It’s this love of community and hospitality that inspires Boateng’s work, whether it’s his commitment to Island farmers and foragers, or his joy in cooking for his suburban neighbors in Langford. House of Boateng is small and stylish, a welcoming space for breakfast or lunch, with regular evening events and pop-ups. The casual menu showcases Boateng’s innovative style and skill for balanced flavours, all inspired by seasonal ingredients and his African heritage. You’ll see it in the rosette of silky house-smoked salmon and pickled sea asparagus in his Island Bowl, the nettle hollandaise and chickpea cake in his Hippy Benny, or the warm hit of spice in his Jollof Rice, the one-bite Ghanaian donut and his golden turmeric latte. It’s delicious, beautiful food made with lots of love.
House of Boateng’s Island Bowl with house-smoked wild B.C. salmon, ancient grains, foraged pickled sea asparagus, Japanese knotweed, radish, preserved young spruce tip vinaigrette and toasted hemp seeds.
RUNNERS UP Nowhere a restaurant | Sherwood Victoria
Best Brunch Saveur
The Saveur Benny with poached eggs, grilled beef tenderloin, truffled mushroom sautée, foie gras Hollandaise and rösti.
Victoria is a brunch town, so it’s hard to choose a favourite. But for something beyond the standard morning menu, there’s chef Robert Cassels’ creative brunch at Saveur. Served Wednesday through Saturday, it’s an amazing and affordable way to enjoy this fine young chef’s well-executed food in a bright, sunny space. Cassels’ breakfast offerings are wide-ranging and playful. They run from his Egg ‘McDuckin’ Breakfast Sandwich (duck bacon, duck confit), to Huevos Rancheros with house-made refried beans and cumin crème fraiche and Hangover Hash with eggs, pork belly, chicken sausage, goat cheese and salsa verde. His signature benny comes with grilled beef tenderloin, truffled mushroom sauté, foie gras hollandaise and rösti. Beyond eggs, there are sweet concoctions like Banana Bread French Toast or Breakfast Risotto, the pan deglazed with bourbon and the grains cooked in spiced milk and butter, then topped with maple crème fraiche and crispy coffee quinoa. It’s an eye-opening experience.
RUNNERS UP House of Boateng | The Village YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2019
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Best Cocktail or Wine Bar
Dobosala’s Poke with albacore tuna and sockeye salmon, sesame-white miso dressing, ssamjang, black sesame crisps, torn artisan lettuces and radishes.
Veneto Bar Ristorante Veneto has long been a venerated leader in the city’s craft cocktail culture. This year they switched up their space on the ground floor of the boutique Hotel Rialto, moving the bar into the sunny street-side corner and expanding the dining room to incorporate a modern, northern Italian-inspired menu. New executive chef Jamie Huynh (fresh from Clayoquot Wilderness Resort, Hawksworth Restaurant and Farmer’s Apprentice in Vancouver) heads the kitchen, while the bar chefs continue to shake up their innovative creations featuring all of the many craft spirits now available on the Island and across B.C. Take a seat at the bright, marble-topped bar and watch the mixologists in action, or choose a cozy corner of the dining room for drinks and dinner. As one of our judges noted: “Veneto is a sophisticated place for drinks, food and conversation, with innovative cocktails and excellent presentation in everything they do.”
RUNNERS UP Vis à Vis | Clive’s Classic Lounge
Veneto’s Barjonesing cocktail, created by former bar manager Simon Ogden, is made with Woodford Reserve Bourbon, Cynar, Abricot du Roussillon and ’Elemakule Tiki Bitters.
Best World Food Dobosala Cantina & Ride Thru At Dobosala Cantina, chef Kunal Ghose has embraced the best of world food with a creative menu that mashes up addictive flavours from across the Pacific Rim. Ghose has long been one of Victoria’s most innovative chefs — an early adopter of sustainable seafood, he gave the city both Red Fish Blue Fish and Fishhook, and is building on those successes with Dobosala. His Ocean Wise menu runs the gamut of seafood, meat and vegetarian dishes, creatively fusing the flavours of Asian, Central American and Island cuisine in noodle bowls, tacones and sopas. It’s casual and accessible food — build-your-own dish with his choices of slow-braised achiote pineapple pork, a dobogochujang chicken or tempura salmon. Or share vegetarian koftas and Japanese-style onigiri rice balls with salmon belly sashimi and charred Humboldt squid. Dobosala offers innovation, flavour and modern dining, from a chef who has helped put Victoria on the culinary map.
RUNNERS UP House of Boateng | Bao
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Best Bakery Café Fol Epi Organic Bakery and Patisserie on Yates Street / Agrius Restaurant This year’s top bakery café stands out for what it does best — baking. “I think the pastries here are some of the best I’ve had outside of France,” wrote one judge. Fol Epi owner Clif Leir opened this downtown location to expand beyond his artisan bread into pastry, and the popular café (next to their award-winning Agrius Restaurant), has become the best place to enjoy their baking, both sweet and savoury. Come for breakfast quiche or pizza, sandwiches on their famed baguette (think house-made ham and organic cheddar, smoked brisket and sauerkraut, or turkey Báhn mi). Or simply stop for coffee and Viennoiserie breakfast pasteries, all made with house-milled organic flour, local fruits and the richness of 84 per cent milk-fat butter. Brian Bradley is the pastry chef behind all of that laminated goodness — from flaky croissants and Danishes to apple strudel and the rare Kouign Amann, a multi-layered butter cake, not to be missed.
RUNNERS UP Ruth & Dean Baked Goods Ottavio Italian Bakery & Delicatessen
Best Pub Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub Spinnakers gastropub is Canada’s first brewpub, and it’s still an innovator in food and drink. Owner Paul Hadfield received the first license in the country to brew beer and consume it on site in 1984. His daughter Kala is now brewing at this busy and beloved city institution, with its farm-to-table menu and impressive range of craft beers and ciders, from the classic cask-fermented ESB to a line of sours, the latest made in used Shiraz barrels from an Island winery. Spinnakers’ chef Ali Ryan says buying food from local farms is “100 per cent our raison d’être.” “Creating beautiful food out of local ingredients supports the local economy and makes it sustainable,” says Ryan, who makes “everything from French fries to duck confit” for the large, 300seat waterfront pub, and uses the brewery’s malted barley in pasta, adds wort to her braises and sauces and creates malt vinegars, breads, ice cream and truffles to sell in their brewery shop. Cheers to that!
RUNNERS UP The Drake Eatery | Six Mile Pub & Eatery
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People’s Choice Part and Parcel Chef Grant Gard and his wife Anna opened Part and Parcel in Quadra Village five years ago and still have some of the same staff. Even as the little restaurant has grown, devoted as it is to handcrafted cooking and fresh, seasonal ingredients, it’s stayed the same. Gard and his cooks rotate through their ever-changing seasonal inventory, posting new menus on Facebook and Instagram almost daily, tweaking their favourites, from house-made gnocchi and risotto to salads and sandwiches, to reflect the fresh ingredients that arrive at the back door. All of that means they’re doing something good — perfect, really — and why so many people keep coming back. That’s what Gard had in mind when he opened Part and Parcel. “We wanted to have a small community restaurant in a neighbourhood where people could come a few times a week and not break the bank,” he says. They’ve stayed true to their mission — and people love it.
RUNNERS UP The Blue Fox Café | Fireside Grill
More Winning Tastes & Places Best Caffeine
Best Afternoon Tea
Best from the Sea
Habit Coffee
The Empress
Wild Mountain Food & Drink
Skilled baristas serve ethical Bows & Arrows Roasters coffee. Watch the city hum from a window seat in the Atrium shop or from the hip locale on Pandora.
The most iconic spot to have Victorian high tea is the elegant Lobby Lounge at the Fairmont Empress Hotel.
Wild Mountain serves organic and sustainable seafood from local waters, paired with wild ingredients from land and sea.
RUNNERS UP Venus Sophia White Heather Tea Room
RUNNERS UP Nowhere a Restaurant | Fishhook
RUNNERS UP Bows & Arrows Coffee Roasters Hey Happy
Best Casual Part and Parcel Serious chefs, local ingredients and handcrafted cooking — with casual counter service and affordable prices — makes for a winning combination. RUNNERS UP Stage Wine Bar | Vis à Vis
Best Bread Fol Epi Organic Bakery and Patisserie Organic wheat is milled on-site for artisan baguettes and whole grain loaves, baked to crusty perfection in a wood oven. RUNNERS UP Fry’s Bakery | Wildfire Bakery
Best Burger Brasserie l’Ecole Beyond the classic steak frites served at this celebrated brasserie, there’s a big bacon and Gruyère cheeseburger, slathered with mustard aïoli. RUNNERS UP Deadbeetz Fresh Food Truck Bin 4 Burger Lounge
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Best Sandwich
E:Né Raw Food and Sake Bar
Wheelies Motorcycle Café The pork sandwich is to die for! Island pork is braised for 15 hours in Phillips root beer, topped with chimichurri aïoli and served on sourdough ciabatta.
Best Middle Eastern Superbaba
The Whole Beast Artisan Salumeria Cory Pelan is the artisan behind this salumeria — creating exceptional drycured sausages, salamis and smoked meats. RUNNERS UP Choux Choux Charcuterie Black Market Meats
JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE
RUNNERS UP Bold Butchery & Grill Roast
Best Charcuterie
Best View Alpina Restaurant at the Villa Eyrie Resort Dining at the Alpina restaurant at the Villa Eyrie Resort offers 360˚ views over the Saanich Inlet from the top of the Malahat.
They even make the pita bread from scratch at this fresh and modern falafel, kebab and shawarma shop.
Best Japanese
RUNNERS UP Yalla | Fig Deli
With Canada’s largest selection of sake, this busy raw bar is the place for tasting flights and flameseared aburi sushi.
RUNNERS UP Aura | LURE
RUNNERS UP Uchida Eatery/Shokudo | Gozen
Deadbeetz
Best Pizza Pizzeria Prima Strada Just like stepping into old Napoli — traditional, thin crust, wood oven pizza, with high quality toppings and service. RUNNERS UP Standard Pizza Fernwood Pizza Company
Best Vegan Nourish Kitchen & Café You’ll find plenty of vegan options on the wholesome, holistic menu and a comfortable table in this heritage home. RUNNERS UP Be Love | The Very Good Butchers
Best Korean Cera Korean Restaurant Cera takes traditional Korean food in a delicious direction with this stylish new concept from the team behind Nubo. RUNNERS UP Persimmon Tree | Chicken 649
Best South Asian
E:Né Raw Food and Sake Bar
Best Italian Zambri’s Chef Peter Zambri continues to create fine contemporary Italian cuisine, from perfect pizzas and pastas to local seafood and Island meat dishes. RUNNERS UP Il Covo Trattoria
Best Food Truck Nothing beats the signature Beatrice burger at Deadbeetz, made with grassfed beef and truck-made pickled beets. RUNNERS UP Finest at Sea | Taco Justice
Best Takeout Ottavio Italian Bakery & Delicatessen
900° Wood-Fired Pizzeria
This neighbourhood deli offers fresh breads, well-stocked cheese and charcuterie cases and all things Italian.
Best Chinese
RUNNERS UP Charelli’s | Fig Deli
J &J Wonton Noodle House This bustling Chinese eatery is known for its classic Cantonese fare, whether it’s ginger beef, cashew chicken or chow mein. RUNNERS UP Little Yunnan Restaurant Lotus Pond Vegetarian Restaurant
Best Mexican
Best Late Night Sherwood This modern, urban café and bar is open morning ‘til night for curated noshing and creative cocktails. RUNNERS UP Little Jumbo Restaurant & Bar Northern Quarter
Mesa Familiar
Best Patio
This family restaurant in Esquimalt offers traditional Indian fare, with the deft touch of a professional chef.
A neighbourhood haunt in Fernwood that celebrates the “family table” of Mexico with tacos, enchiladas and sunny cocktails.
Canoe Brewpub
RUNNERS UP Royal Spice Indian Cuisine The Mantra Fine Indian Cuisine
RUNNERS UP Café Mexico Grill & Cantina La Taqueria Pinche Taco Shop
Spice Valley
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This sunny brewpub patio near The Gorge offers views of sailboats bobbing in the marina with your pint. RUNNERS UP The Livet | LURE Restaurant & Bar
Restaurant Profile
BIG WHEEL BURGER Real. Food. Fast. Executive Chef and Operations Manager Jason Ducklow
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he superb burgers and fries alone are worth all the buzz Big Wheel Burger has earned in the seven years since its inception, but elevating the art of truly satisfying “food fast” is not its only claim to fame. What continues to set Big Wheel apart is the whole picture — from how the food is sourced, to the company culture and work environment, even down to how the dining room is supplied. Leading the mission is Executive Chef and Operations Manager Jason Ducklow. Jason started cooking professionally at the age of 19 and hasn’t looked back. He fell in love with Creole food working at Crawdaddy’s in Saskatoon, and has been cooking with that influence ever since. His cooking career brought him across three provinces to British Columbia, where he worked at several of Victoria’s brewpubs and bars before settling in as Executive Chef at Big Wheel Burger. “Truthfully, burgers and fries are what you start cooking when you just get into the culinary field. I never thought this would be my endgame, but this is definitely a game I very much enjoy playing,” says Jason. “I am extremely proud of what we have accomplished in trying to do something classic and make it even more delicious, while focusing on our environmental impact, a healthy work environment that pays a good living wage, and allowing our staff the freedom to be themselves and enjoy the place they work.” Not only is the positive attitude of the employees palpable at all three of Big Wheel’s current locations, but so is the satisfaction of the patrons. This is due in part to the industry-leading efforts Big Wheel has put in to turning “food fast” stereotypes on their ear. “We have fine tuned over and over to get ourselves to a waste-free customer area and have achieved a 97-99% diversion rate, something we are very proud of. We turn
“I never thought this would be my endgame, but this is definitely a game I very much enjoy playing.”
our used fryer oil into the Bio-Diesel we run our delivery van on, and what we cannot compost, we recycle,” Jason says. By creating “… a happy, welcoming atmosphere while consistently putting out delicious, classic food,” (with keen attention to being green), Big Wheel Burger gives Victorians a guilt-free way to enjoy an easy, family meal.
Westside Village 172 Wilson Street Cook St Village: 341 Cook Street Gateway Village: 703-771 Vernon Avenue
bigwheelburger.com
Restaurant Profile
BOOM + BATTEN RESTAURANT AND CAFÉ Distinctive dining on the waterfront
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ocated on an appealing waterfront setting overlooking Victoria’s charming and often entertaining harbour, Boom + Batten offers a memorable dining experience, complete with dynamic panorama. Stroll from downtown to the restaurant and café along the Songhees (or Westsong) Walkway, a picturesque urban walk. Settle into your perfect spot for a morning latte and fresh scone or later in the day to enjoy a sunset dinner and order trendy new wines by the glass — because at Boom + Batten you can. Whether on your own or meeting friends and family, you’re all welcome here. Plus, you can order the Boom + Batten experience for delivery to your home or business through our exclusive Boom + Batten boxes and boards.
Boom + Batten cuisine celebrates sustainable sources grounded in Pacific Northwest culture — from seafood to fresh vegetables and meats from local producers. The menu is creative, beautiful and tasty — owing as much to the culinary team’s sense of fun and adventure as it owes to the laid back West Coast vibe. Executive Chef Sam Harris has assembled a dream team to develop and deliver on the promise of what West Coast food should be. While creating an unparalleled culinary experience through the creative collaboration between Executive Chef Sam Harris, Chef de Cuisine Dion Ouellet, Pastry Chef Dominique Laurencelle and Chef Michael Pelletier is the core of
Boom + Batten’s plan, the restaurant is also dedicated to its unique in-house apprenticeship program. The executive culinary team is committed to creating a learning environment to mentor aspiring cooks. Menu development is based on local sources, travels and trends, with plenty of friendly customer engagement to find the perfect wine and craft beer pairings. “I’m inspired by the seasons,” explains Chef Sam Harris, “That’s how I learned to cook. Sourcing local, sustainable, seasonal ingredients and forming relationships with farmers and local suppliers — that’s the Boom + Batten story. And being able to share our bounty in a creative and wonderful experience‚ that’s a story worth telling.”
2 Paul Kane Place, Victoria // boomandbatten.com // Open 11:00 am to 11:00 pm, Cafe open 7:30 am to 5:00 pm
Restaurant Profile
THE COURTNEY ROOM Modern Pacific Northwest Cuisine
Fresh. Local. Delicious. 619 Courtney Street, Victoria // 250 940 4090 // thecourtneyroom.com
LEILA KWOK
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ld world meets new in The Courtney Room, born of the desire to offer timeless hospitality in a classically modern space. The Courtney Room has received many accolades in the year they’ve been open: Victoria’s Best New Restaurant YAM magazine 2018, #10 Best New Restaurant in Canada enRoute Magazine 2018, Silver Wine Program Excellence Vancouver Wine Fest 2019 and Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants 2019. Co-Chefs de Cuisine Chris Klassen and Brian Tesolin are both passionate about showcasing the bounty of the island. Food is ingredient driven, and classic cooking techniques are used to offer a modern approach to Pacific Northwest cuisine. The menu includes house-aged steak, fresh seafood, smoked duck and house made charcuterie. The Chefs’ Tasting Menu features their favourite preparations and is an extraordinary feast for the senses. Watch for seasonal menu changes that highlight fresh local items. You will also find classics such as steak Oscar, and delicious sharable items like the signature duck fat Potatoes Courtney. Their classic take on the dry-aged burger is juicy and flavourful — and you can order it cooked to your liking! The room has two great spaces; the vibrant brasserie with stylish marble bar is perfect for a business lunch or a meal with friends. Upstairs, the dining room features white linens and an elegant glass-encased wine room, the perfect backdrop for a more refined dining experience. “We love customizing “Diverse and the dining experience,” approachable, a says Adrian Gatt, little something Food & Beverage Manager. “From for everyone.” special occasions in the dining room to a fun get together in the vibrant brasserie, we strive to deliver memorable dining experiences.” The creative cocktail menu includes house specialties and features cocktails that reflect the kitchen’s seasonality and comprises many local spirits. The award-winning wine list offers many options by the glass, including sparkling wine and champagne. “Diverse and approachable, a little something for everyone” is how sommelier Anna Romeyn describes the wine program at The Courtney Room. Make your reservation today at thecourtneyroom.com or 250-940-4090.
Restaurant Profile
LITTLE JUMBO RESTAURANT & BAR
Urban speakeasy featuring an elevated menu and craft cocktails
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ictoria’s Little Jumbo Restaurant & Bar is inspired by two rivals, Jerry Thomas the “father of American mixology” and Harry Johnson “the father of professional bartending” and famous bar and hotel consultant. In 1877, Johnson bought and renamed the bar where Thomas had worked in Soho, New York, calling it the Little Jumbo Saloon. With his international expertise in hospitality, it became a huge success. Victoria’s old-town Little Jumbo boasts the best of classic and modern mixology. The blending of new and old is also reflected in the astute, awardwinning design of this speakeasy’s interior, from its exposed brick wall, to its gorgeous end grain Western Maple bar, to its antique light fixtures and Edison light bulbs, which envelop patrons in an urbane yet inviting glow. In addition to the artistry of the rotating list of house cocktails, the dinner menu’s appeal cannot be denied. Chef Gabe FayermanHansen rotates the seasonally driven menus six or seven times a year, and the menu’s combination of textures and flavours is constantly poured over by the entire kitchen team, who transpose their passion onto every plate. The new early summer menu offers a wide range of influence, and draws heavily from local farms to express the amazing produce available on Vancouver Island. For example, the luscious Smoked and Glazed Pork Belly and Seared Scallops, served with mizuna, celeriac mousse and fondant,
Chef Gabe Fayerman-Hansen
and green apple mustard has been a crowd favourite since its inception. And always in the wheelhouse is the delicious, trusty Little Jumbo Burger served with Truffle Frites and Aioli. This incarnation relies on a double-smoked bacon and red onion jam, taleggio cheese, greens from Saanich Organics, a
spicy-sweet chipotle-honey purée, all on a brioche bun sourced from our friends at the award-winning Crust Bakery, also found on Fort Street. As if that weren’t enough, diners are left with a nearly impossible choice: which dessert to finish with? The Frozen Lemon Soufflé being an especially irresistible, unique-within-Victoria option, or a dessert cocktail tailored to an individual’s tastes. Tucked-away in the Pacific Transfer Building, Little Jumbo is the place in Victoria to tuck in to some exceptional fare, on a first date or with friends.
506 Fort Street, Victoria // Sunday-Thursday, 5-11 pm // Friday-Saturday, 5-12 am littlejumbo.ca
Restaurant Profile
THE PACIFIC RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE At the Hotel Grand Pacific
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his summer, a visit to The Pacific Restaurant Terrace is a must. It’s the perfect spot for a leisurely lunch, afternoon cocktail or evening gathering. Sit back in the sunshine or visit Friday and Saturday evening and enjoy the live entertainment. Choose from our small bites patio menu and our unique cocktail pitchers made for sharing — and be sure to indulge in our locally inspired and sourced Seafood Boil. “I was inspired to create this fun, fresh and simple dish, perfect for sharing on the summer patio with a local craft beer or glass of wine, says Executive Chef Ian Goard. “The Seafood Boil was designed to bring together our wild, west coast seafood with locally farmed veggies into one delectable meal.”
463 Belleville Street, Victoria // hotelgrandpacific.com
Restaurant Profile
PERSIMMON TREE Creating authentic Korean flavours through modern cooking techniques
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hef David had the pleasure and privilege of growing up with his mother’s high-quality cooking, dishes that originated from Jeonju, an area in South Korea reputable for its authentic flavours. Thanks to this, he developed a variety of cooking skills for both Korean food and western fine dining, and through his decade-long career as a chef at high-end hotels in Alberta and British Columbia, he came equipped with techniques and experiences to start his own restaurant. After many years of research, David opened Persimmon Tree, the first Korean restaurant in Langford, which introduced a traditional yet distinctly modern Korean cuisine.
Menu items include Kimchi Fried Rice cooked with bacon and homemade compound butter to deepen its flavours, and Yam Noodles, a recreation of Japchae, prepared using a flaming technique to give a smoky flavour and garnished with fresh mung bean sprouts and scallions. Also worth a mention are David’s roasted mackerel and his Korean-style fried chicken, both thoughtfully created to balance the flavours and texture of the dish. Persimmon Tree also offers traditionally prepared dishes, including Bulgogi, a stir-fried beef dish cooked with sweet soy sauce over high heat, and Kimchi Stew which is prepared over long hours to achieve a rich broth.
For those who enjoy spicy food, Chili Chicken and Chili Pork cooked with gochugang (Korean hot pepper paste) deliver Korea’s subtle spicy flavours. For a healthier meal, Bibimbap with vegetables, homemade kimchi and egg on a bed of rice is popular. For the full Persimmon Tree experience, try a Korean beer with the fried chicken, or Soju (rice spirit) with meat dishes. For something sweeter, try Bokbunja (wine made with blackberry). Also popular is the 5-drink sampler. In addition to his regular menu items, Chef David’s passion for cooking is expressed in weekly specials and Sunday brunch, as well as exciting menus for lunch and weekends.
193-2401 Millstream Road, Victoria // 778 430 0355 // persimmontreerestaurant.com
Restaurant / Chef Profiles
ARTISAN BISTRO Food with Finesse
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hef Daryl Pope opened Artisan Bistro in the heart of Broadmead Village in 2016. A neighbourhood gem for casual fine dining complemented by an extensive wine list, this French-inspired bistro aims to impress. Pope showcases what the Island has to offer through supporting local farmers and using local organic ingredients whenever possible. It’s the perfect destination to dine, socialize and celebrate a private event. Building on the success of Artisan Bistro and satisfying breakfast cravings in downtown Victoria, Chef Pope recently opened Artisan Café on Fort Street, offering a French-inspired all-day breakfast menu that is vibrant and colourful.
777 Royal Oak Drive, Victoria // artisanbistro.ca // 250 590 9333 // Serving breakfast, lunch & dinner Second location, Artisan Café, now open at 915 Fort Street, serving breakfast & lunch only.
PASTA, PIZZA, SALUMI ! Award-winning Italian, entirely wood-fired
KYLE MINER PHOTOGRAPHY
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elebrating its fourth year of success, 900° has just received its fourth consecutive TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence! We have now expanded the menu to include pasta and other traditional Italian dishes, and expanded our hours to open for lunch and dinner, seven days a week. Our pizzeria has a unique focus of providing the highest possible quality ingredients with as many local products as can be incorporated into the recipes. And another game-changer — the menu is now 100% gluten-free optional!
2401-B Millstream Road // 900-degrees.ca // 250 590 4493 // M-F noon-2 pm, 5-8:00 pm // Sat & Sun noon-8:00 pm
Restaurant / Chef Profiles
WOOD-FIRED PIZZA Pizzeria Prima Strada — Your Neighbourhood Pizzeria
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ore than 10 years ago, two food lovers with a passion for wood-fired pizza were inspired to create Pizzeria Prima Strada. They wanted a neighbourhood pizzeria: a place to gather with family and friends for a delicious and casual meal. It needed to satisfy both their four-year-old son and eighty-year-old Nonna. Also required? A few cocktails, good wines and craft beer. Over the years, Prima Strada has expanded their house made offerings from sausage and meatballs to include gelato and pepperoni. Goods so delicious, you can now purchase to enjoy at home. Mangiamo!
Cook Street • Fort Street • Cobble Hill // pizzeriaprimastrada.com
INSPIRED CUISINE Chef Robert Cassels of Saveur
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hef Robert Cassels spent many of his formative years in his godparents’ French restaurant, Antoine’s, developing an early appreciation for etiquette, table service and a love for sauces! Earning his first Chef position at 19, he travelled to Paris to stage at small, chef-owned restaurants and bakeries. In 2013, Chef Cassels began converting a former Victoria boot factory into his much beloved Saveur Restaurant. This spring, the restaurant was reanimated to reflect the vision of Chef Robert Cassels’ dynamic and seasonally inspired menu, with beautiful new artwork and furnishings.
658 Herald Street, Victoria // saveurrestaurant.ca // 250 590 9251
Restaurant / Chef Profiles
INSPIRED WEST COAST FARE Chef Justin Weber of Bella at Bear Mountain
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xecutive Chef Justin Weber does not have to search far for inspiration on Vancouver Island. With the abundance of quality produce and fresh seafood there is a myriad of dishes that can be created. Chef Weber loves crafting fare that brings the traditional lifestyle of Victoria alive. He feels there is nothing better than using fresh, local ingredients to pull a well-crafted meal together that guests will enjoy. Take the drive up to Bear Mountain to see the delectable menus Chef Weber and his team are serving.
1999 Country Club Way, Victoria // bearmountain.ca // 250 391 7160
HOUSE OF BOATENG The Gathering Place
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kwaaba!” We welcome you to the House of Boateng Café, where it’s all about the flavours and the people. Chef Castro Boateng brings his raw talent, passion and natural creativity to the Westshore community with House of Boateng Café & Catering. The cuisine celebrates the heritage of West Africa, Caribbean, Japan and the Pacific Northwest. We invite you to take a seat at our table and indulge in flavours with substance — a gathering place where you can forge new friendships, cozy up with family and open up your senses to simply fresh ingredients, delightfully personal service and seriously good food. G H
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105 - 2854 Peatt Road, Victoria // houseofboateng.ca // 778 432 2233 Monday-Friday 8 am-3 pm, Saturday & Sunday 9 am-3 pm, Monthly Supper Club
Rise & Shine Research shows early risers are happier than late nighters, but changing from night owl to morning lark isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t always easy. We put some expert advice to the test. By Kerry Slavens
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t 6 a.m. on a bright spring morning, the chickadee in the tree by my window was wide awake and chirping to beat the band. On the street below, city workers clanged and banged as they emptied the metal bins. Voices of the women in a local walking club floated up through my window. This was supposed to be the first day of my new life, the one where I would awaken early and spend three hours meditating and writing fiction and poetry (because dawn is a friend of muses, according to a Latin proverb) before getting ready for work. But I’d already hit the snooze button six times, and the joyful noises from the chickadee had begun to sound irritatingly cheerful. I stumbled to the window, slammed it shut and reset my alarm for the more civilized hour of 7:30 a.m. Once more, I had failed to kick start my day as a morning person. I wasn’t always such a laze about. In my teens and 20s, I was an early riser who relished those quiet hours when the house was hushed and peaceful. In the golden light of morning, everything always seemed so hopeful. Back then, I couldn’t sleep in if I tried; I was infamous for being the first one up on Christmas morning. But at some point over the years, my circadian clock — that biological mechanism that regulates the body’s sleep-wake cycle — changed. I became the kind of person who could easily sleep until 11 a.m. on weekends and who wore out snooze buttons during the week. My new philosophy could best be embodied by something cartoonist Jim Davis of Garfield fame said: “If people were meant to pop out of bed, we’d all sleep in toasters.” I might have been OK with that philosophy, and maybe I should even have felt grateful. After all, many of my friends in middle age were complaining about either insomnia or unwanted early morning awakenings. But I had the sense that my sleep inertia had begun to steal valuable hours from my “one wild and precious life,” as poet Mary Oliver described it. I had things to do, and I had already lived out half of my potential lifespan. It was time to wake up and start working toward my goals. I needed to get serious about it — or forget it altogether.
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FROM OWL TO LARK So I set off to arm myself with knowledge and tools to achieve my goal of being an early riser. I talked to a few early birds and then I turned to Google, which proved both a blessing and a curse. The first thing I came to was an anonymous quote posted by a blogger who was trying to be inspirational — I guess: “Every morning in Africa, a gazelle wakes up. It knows it must run faster than the fastest lion or it will be killed. Every morning a lion wakes up. It
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knows it must outrun the slowest gazelle or it will starve to death. It doesn’t matter whether you are a lion or a gazelle … when the sun comes up, you’d better be running.” I don’t know about you, but I didn’t find this inspiring. If I were going to be eaten by a lion, I’d rather be sleeping than running. I left the self-help advice behind and focused on the science. It turns out sleep scientists also like to use animal metaphors. In the case of sleep cycles, they often refer to larks and owls. Larks are what scientists call “phase advanced people.” These are people who tend to feel tired early in the evening. Owls, on the other hand, are “phase delayed,” meaning they don’t feel tired until late at night. Most humans fall somewhere in between. These are called “intermediate chronotypes.” Apparently, the larks do have an advantage over the owls, according to a 2013 study by Jessica Rosenberg at RWTH Aachen University in Germany. She and her team found early risers have more quality white matter in their brains, which speeds up the transmission of nerve signals. Simply put, the healthier your volume of white matter, the faster you are at thinking. Another study conducted by the University of Exeter found people who are early risers experience greater levels of happiness and a lower risk of depression than the owls, who
may be prone to a kind of permanent jet lag. This may also point to white matter, but it could also have a lot to do with the fact that our society is set up to accommodate early birds. School and work schedules typically begin between 8 a.m. and 9 a.m. That’s pretty early for the owls among us. Early risers also perform better academically, according to a University of Texas study which found “morning” people had a grade point average (GPA) one point higher than the evening people. The researcher’s explanation? Early birds get to their classes on time and drink less. Most researchers agree it is possible to shift your circadian rhythm but disagree about how much. Some believe it’s only possible to shift it by an hour. I was ambitiously looking to find myself an extra two or three hours each morning. So I embarked on a series of trials and errors.
1. Have a good reason We all need a reason to get up in the morning, and we need an extra big reason to crawl out of bed while most people in our time zone are still sleeping. In my case, I wanted to feel better, gain energy, procrastinate less and accomplish the writing I didn’t feel inspired to do if I left it until the end of the day. I took heart that one of my favourite writers, American short story master Raymond Carver, was only able to finish his books because he started getting up early to write before he even began his work day. Novelist Haruki Murakami once told an interviewer that he gets up at 4 a.m. and works for five to six hours (then runs 10 kilometres or swims for 1,500 metres). Show off! You may find it helpful to have a Spotify list you love to play to ease you into the day, or maybe you need an affirmation you can tack on the wall beside your mirror to remind you and inspire you. Or you may feel as writer Joanne Sherman did when she wrote: “You may find you need a ‘carpe diem’ mug, and truthfully, at six in the morning the words do not make me want to seize the day. They make me want to slap a dead poet.”
Most researchers agree it is possible to shift your circadian rhythm but disagree about how much.
THE CIRCADIAN SHIFT Some of the advice I found worked really well for me; while other advice just bombed. Here’s what worked for me — and what didn’t.
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Investing for Generations
Paul Barron, BA, CIM
Portfolio Manager, Assistant Branch Manager
For over 90 years, Odlum Brown Limited has been committed to helping generations of clients achieve their financial goals, whether it be retirement income, investment growth, or education savings. Our independent unbiased advice, our very successful hypothetical Model Portfolio, and our singular client focus provide value for every generation.
6 WAKE-UP APPS FROM GENTLE TO ANNOYING
Here are a few apps to help you wake up in the best way for your sleep type:
1 Rise & Shine
Rise & Shine wakes you up naturally by gradually increasing the light on your phone and displaying a picture of nature — meaning you don’t have to worry about all those jarring alarm sounds or waking up in the dark.
For more information: Tel 250-952-7776 pbarron@odlumbrown.com odlumbrown.com/pbarron
2 Gentle Alarm
This app tries to wake you up in your lightest cycle by playing a quiet prealarm you can only hear if you are in light sleep. It gradually increases in intensity until you wake up. The prealarm time can be adjusted within a 30-minute time frame.
Member-Canadian Investor Protection Fund
Member-Canadian Investor Protection Fund
3 Walk Me Up
To turn this alarm off, just get up and walk 15 steps. Don’t try to fool it by shaking your phone. If it detects shaking, it will reset your step count.
4 Alarmy
“The world’s most annoying alarm” requires you to complete a certain task, such as solving a math problem or snapping a photo in order to make it stop ringing.
Sold
5 Wake N Shake Alarm Clock
With this app, you can only turn your alarm off by shaking your phone. Its motto? “No snooze button. No mercy.” Plus it also works for short naps, so you won’t get stuck in deep sleep.
6 Uhp
Is the threat of public shame the one thing that will persuade you to get up on time? Uhp will refuse to turn your alarm off if you don’t get out of bed when the alarm is going off and it will post to your social media to let everyone know how lazy you’re being.
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2. Seek the light When light reaches your retinas, it tells your brain to stop making melatonin, that thing that makes you sleepy. Instead, it switches to making cortisol, which wakes you up. Because I began my sleep adjustment in the spring, morning light was readily available, but I knew fall and winter would be an issue, especially since I’m prone to seasonal affective disorder (SAD), which just makes me want to burrow deeper under the covers. After some research, I’ve pretty much settled on buying the Philips Wake-Up Light Alarm Clock with Sunrise Simulation. It works by gradually lighting your bedroom 30 minutes before your designated wake-up time, so that by the time you get out of bed, you’ll feel alert and ready for the day. 3. Find your rhythm Sleep has light and deep phases. Many researchers say the key to an easier morning is to wake up from the lightest phase of sleep, so the closer to the awake state you are when your alarm goes off, the better you will feel. How do you do this? You can use trial and error. For instance, if you feel like a sack of potatoes when your alarm goes off at 5 a.m., opt for 5:30 instead. If that doesn’t work, aim for 6 a.m. That approach definitely didn’t work for me. I just kept hitting the snooze button. Instead, I decided to find an app to help me. I immediately rejected the Snap Me Up app, which requires you to snap a selfie of yourself to silence the alarm. No. Just no. I also rejected Sonic Bomb because it really is like a bomb going off, and it put me in an extra-bad mood for hours after awakening. For someone like me, who is a so-called sensitive sleeper, the more gentle the wake-up process, the better. My research finally led me to Sleep Cycle, an app that analyzes your sleep patterns. Pick your target wake-up time and Sleep Cycle will gently wake you from your slumber during your lightest phase of sleep to ensure that you wake up feeling rested and refreshed. Here’s how it works. Using sound and vibration analysis, your phone’s built-in microphone picks up your movements as you sleep, then analyzes the data to determine which phase of sleep you are in. It then picks the best time to wake you up within a 30-minute period. This app works best if you have regular bedtimes. If you change your bedtime by an hour or two every night, your sleep cycle changes too, and the app won’t be able to accurately identify your best waking time. 4. Treat yourself Some people suggest meditation is a great way to greet the day, but I found it just puts me back to sleep. What works for me is good strong coffee, and it needs to be ready to go the minute my feet hit the ground (hello auto brew!). Some of you will find that eating right away helps regulate your blood sugar and gives
you a burst of energy. I prefer to wait a few hours so I get my intermittent fasting in. I also know people who swear by going for a walk or run as soon as they get up, and I may go for an energetic morning stroll eventually, but for now just getting up and writing is all I can manage. Speaking of managing, I can’t stress enough that you have to do this on your own terms. If you are embarking on changing your entire sleep cycle out of guilt, or because it’s someone else’s idea, it probably won’t work. “You do you,” as they say. 5. Design your bedtime I’m not much good on less than seven hours of sleep a night (most adults need between seven and nine hours, according to the Canadian Sleep Society). That represented a big challenge for me if I wanted to get up early, because I have a hard time going to sleep before 10 or 11 p.m. While I can’t always force myself to sleep on time, I found I’m far more likely to if I start my bedtime routine earlier and add some lavender essential oil to my bath. I also occasionally take a small dose of melatonin (check with your doctor). And to cut down on my exposure to blue light, which messes with your circadian rhythms, last week I moved my iPhone to the next room overnight to avoid the temptation to look at it while in bed. On nights when I just can’t fall asleep early (or I’m out at a show or a party), I give myself extra time in the morning.
THE WAKE-UP CALL There are many blogs and books out there that promise to make you an early riser in one week or 12 days or whatever. I began a month ago, and I’m still not confident enough to say it’s become routine. But it is getting easier, and I find that on days when I achieve my goal, I tend to feel sharper, have more energy and, most importantly, feel more in control of my life. And despite all the good advice and great gadgets for waking up early, the best advice came to me through something a friend posted on Facebook about the five-second rule, popularized by author Mel Robbins in her book The 5 Second Rule: Transform Your Life, Work, and Confidence with Everyday Courage. When I’m really being a layabout, I steel my will and follow her advice, which is based on her philosophy that if you have an instinct to act on a goal, you must physically move within five seconds or your brain will kill it. “The moment you feel an instinct or a desire to act on a goal or a commitment, use The Rule,” she writes. “When you feel yourself hesitate before doing something that you know you should do, count 5-4-3-2-1-GO and move towards action.” If you do not take action on your instinct to change, she adds, you will stay stagnant. You will not change. So, 5-4-3-2-1 … good morning! YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2019
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Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s West Coast is home to 700 different species of seaweed, more underwater biodiversity than any place on the planet. 78
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EAWEED WONDERFUL Delicious and nutritious seaweed is one of the wild foods attracting the interest of contemporary chefs and foragers, especially here on Vancouver Island, which boasts more varieties of seaweed than anywhere else in the world. Written and photographed by Cinda Chavich
D
r. Bridgette recedes. Canada’s Clarkston West Coast is home reaches to 700 different down and species of seaweed, ruffles the glistening more underwater tendrils of purple laver biodiversity than any clinging to the rocks at other place on the low tide. planet. There are 32 This edible seaweed kinds of kelp alone, — Pyropia or Porphyra from winged kelp spp. — is also known as (Alaria marginata or nori, which is chopped wild wakame) and and formed into thin laminaria to giant bull sheets to wrap the kelp, one of the fastest ubiquitous sushi roll. growing plants on But here it’s fresh, earth. almost oily looking, Clarkston is a slicked like a purple UBC professor and a pompadour across the seaweed expert. She’s intertidal zone at the co-authored Pacific edge of Frank Island Seaweeds with fellow near Tofino. academic and Bamfield Seaweed enthusiast Dr. Bridgette Clarkston identifying the various types of kelp during “This is the most kelp producer Dr. a foraging walk at the Seaweed Festival in common and widely Louis Druehl, and Tofino. eaten seaweed in the recently published world,” says Clarkston, the pamphlet A Field holding out a translucent, ruddy specimen. Guide to Seaweeds of the Pacific Northwest. “Pyropia is only one cell layer thick, yet it It’s with that illustrated pamphlet in survives the beating of the waves and the hand that I am peering into tide pools and beating of the sun. An incredible species.” examining the rocky shore on Chesterman Seaweed flourishes by the seashore all Beach, along with a dozen other curious around our coasts — a tangle of bulbous beachcombers. kelp at the high water mark, electric green It’s all part of the inaugural, one-day sea lettuce floating in tidal pools, little sacks Seaweed Fest Tofino, a chance to dive in with of yellow Halosaccion glandiforme clinging both gumboots and learn how to identify, to exposed rocks, Fucus distichus (a.k.a. sustainably forage, cook, preserve and eat rockweed), with its puffed, lobster claw tips, the healthy bounty of sea vegetables literally scattering on the sand as the crashing tide floating on our doorstep.
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UNDERWATER HARVEST Marine plants fall into two distinct categories: marine grasses and algae. All species of seaweed are algae, from microscopic organisms to the world’s largest Macrocystis pyrifera or giant (macro) kelp that can grow 18 inches a day and up to 100 feet in a single season. While it may appear to be mere flotsam to be avoided on beach walks, kelp is one of the world’s marvels. At the surface, bull kelp forms a thick mat of wide brown blades held afloat by bulbous, gas-filled balls, but beneath the waves the plant’s long stems (stipes) are anchored to the ocean floor by finger-like holdfasts, a watery glade sheltering fish, sea otters and other marine mammals. “The bull and macro kelp form the canopy of dense underwater forests, like the big spruce or Douglas firs, with the smaller kelp and other creatures in the understory,” explains Clarkston, as she demonstrates the proper way to harvest kelp. Only shear off the tops of the plants, she says, leaving the lateral reproductive blades (sporophylls) at the base, which carry the plant’s spores, to insure it can reproduce and will continue growing. This way, the same plant may be harvested throughout the season. It’s how Dr. Louis Druehl, a former professor and kelp researcher at Simon Fraser University, cultures wild kelp at
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While it may appear to be mere flotsam to be avoided on your beach walks, kelp is one of the world’s marvels.
Canadian Kelp Resources, a for a snorkeling adventure to Commercial Bamfield-based company that explore the rich and magical harvesters must supplies chefs and consumers kelp ecosystem. be licensed, but with delicious and nutritious Swinimer prunes the wild individuals may sea vegetables. Hand harvesting kelp by hand, then dries harvest up to kelp in the clean waters of and packages it. She sells a 100 pounds of Barkley Sound, “with a canoe variety of seaweed products, and a box cutter,” Druehl sells a from whole dried seaweed, seaweed in B.C. variety of dried kelp products, without a license, to medicinal salves and teas, from kombu (Laminaria) and online (dakinitidalwilds.com) provided it is bull kelp (Nereocystis), to sugar and through local markets. collected by hand At Lifestyle Markets in kelp (Saccharina latissima) and (no raking) and macro kelp (Macrocystis). Victoria, her dried seaweed does not harm Commercial harvesters must is also available in bulk. the plant. be licensed, but individuals COOKING WITH KELP may harvest up to 100 pounds Seaweed has been of seaweed in B.C. without a consumed by humans for centuries, in Asian license, provided it is collected by hand countries like Japan and Korea, in Ireland and (no raking) and does not harm the plant. Wales, and by Indigenous people in North Every type of seaweed is different, but America. Today aquatic plants are harvested generally it’s safe to trim off a portion of each for food, fertilizer and for the alginates used blade and leave the plants with their holdfast to thicken products, from ice cream and yogurt structures still connected to the rocks. Never to toothpaste. take more than 10 per cent. Otherwise, wait for In B.C., red laver has long been collected by a high tide or storm, and gather the bull kelp, coastal First Nations. Traditionally, laver was rockweed and other seaweed that’s deposited gathered by women in canoes, then piled on on the beach. the beaches and lightly smoked or air-dried Closer to home, you can learn to safely on cedar frames. Added to soups or stews harvest various types of seaweed in a workshop with Sooke marine biologist Amanda as a seasoning, or enjoyed as a crispy snack dipped in eulachon grease, seaweed provides Swinimer of Dakini Tidal Wilds. Forage for protein, iron, Vitamins A and C, fibre and seaweed with Swinimer at low tide or suit up micronutrients. Today, seaweed is also one of the wild foods attracting the interest of contemporary chefs and foragers. All seaweed is edible, but some types are tastier than others. Try the blades and stipes of bull kelp, the long ruffled ribbons of winged kelp (Alaria), sugar kelp, feather boa (Egregia), sea lettuce (Ulva) and laver. Our morning of beachcombing nets several varieties of sea vegetables, and so it’s time to learn how to cook and preserve our harvest with Hélène Cooking Tip Descoteaux of the For seaweed Tofino Community chips, dust Food Initiative. As part of his wild food tasting menu, chef Carmen squares of fresh She instructs us to Ingham of The Pointe Restaurant at Wickaninnish bull kelp with salt Inn wrapped smoked trout in kelp to cure overnight, soak and wash the and chilies, then then served the fish with English peas, buttermilk, bull kelp bulbs and bake in a 400˚F dill and trout roe vinaigrette. hollow stems in cold oven until bright water, then lightly green and crisp. peel away the tough
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FINEST AT SEA
Captain Alec Fraumeni of FV Nordic Spirit at age nine, during his first salmon fishing trip.
Wild. Sustainable. West Coast Salmon. 100% known-origin and traceability — from our fishermen direct to you Fishing to the highest level of sustainability 30 years local and family owned STUFFED BBQ SALMON • 1 whole salmon, approx. 5 lbs • 1 lemon - juiced • 1 sweet onion - diced • 2 sticks celery - chopped • 150g hand-peeled shrimp meat chopped • 1 large sprig fresh fennel - chopped fine (dill or parsley are ok as well) • 3 tbsp butter • 1/4 cup sour cream • 2 cups panko breadcrumbs • 1/2 tsp salt • butchers’ twine/food-safe string
Cut 5 or 6 slits into the skin along the body of the salmon. Squeeze lemon juice into the belly cavity of the salmon. Melt butter in skillet, add onions and celery, cook until onions are soft. Remove from heat, stir in breadcrumbs, shrimp, sour cream, fennel and salt. Pack the stuffing mix into the belly cavity and secure with butcher’s twine. Rub outside of salmon with olive oil and wrap in aluminum foil. Grill for about 20-30 minutes on med heat, turning once. Gently unwrap foil and release steam – Careful, it will be VERY hot! Serve on a platter and garnish with fresh lemon wedges and fennel sprigs.
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All seaweed is edible, but some types are tastier than others. outer “bark” before slicing it thin for pickling. With a classic bread and butter pickle brine, we create a glistening, golden kelp pickle. Later, at 1909 Kitchen, Chef Paul Moran treats us to a vegetarian feast — from smoky alder and kelp dashi broth with slivered kelp noodles and a crunchy seaweed salad, to crispy pizza topped with bull kelp and feta, and even a candied feather boa kelp and sea buckthorn dessert. Other Islanders are adding kelp to their products Cooking Tip too. Sheringham Blitz dried seaweed Distillery’s Seaside in the blender Gin, recently until crumbled or named best powered, then stir contemporary gin into hot rice or use in the world at the to sprinkle over World Gin Awards, popcorn or oysters counts winged kelp for a salty punch of among its local oceany umami. botanicals.
SIMPLE SEAWEED
6 Chef Hacks Chef Oliver Kienast of Wild Mountain Food & Drink dehydrates electric green sea lettuce, then pulverizes it to a powder in a blender to sprinkle over freshlyshucked oysters. For seaweed slaw, Picnic Charcuterie’s Tina Windsor washes fresh giant kelp fronds well in cold water, cuts it into slivers, then tosses with ginger, sesame oil and cider vinegar. Wickaninnish Inn chef Carmen Ingham suggests wrapping salmon or trout fillets in fresh kelp and plastic wrap, and refrigerating overnight, before smoking or grilling. The salty kelp lightly cures the fish and adds umami.
For a smooth seaweed sauce, which can be puréed and frozen to add to stir fries or chowders, foraging chef Bill Jones of Deerholme Farm simmers chopped seaweed with miso, soy sauce, mirin, hot sauce and sesame oil. Chef Ian Riddick of Heartwood Kitchen in Ucluelet uses bull kelp and pine mushrooms in his Ukee Dashi Broth, used for braising fish or steaming clams and mussels. Chef Warren Barr of Pluvio Restaurant & Rooms in Ucluelet adds dried seaweed powder to salad dressings, stocks and sauces.
Halosaccion glandiforme, ”dead man’s fingers” Fucus distichus, “rockweed”
Acrosiphonia coalita “green rope”
Ulva, ”sea lettuce”
Odonthalia floccosa, “sea brush”
Fucus distichus, another form of “rockweed” Mastocarpus, ”Turkish washcloth”
Foraging for seaweed near Tofino uncovers several species, all of which are edible.
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At Wolf in the Fog in Tofino, chef Nick Nutting tops his tuna poke plate with shards of crispy fried nori.
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The Renew Cooking Tip green tea broth Cut sheets of nori from Silk Road into strips or squares, Tea, designed dip one side in thin to make a tempura batter, revitalizing then fry in hot oil soup, contains for 2 to 3 minutes seaweed and for a crispy base for tuna or salmon poke spirulina in appetizers. addition to other wild plants. Tofino Brewing Company adds 10 pounds of dried kelp to every batch of their Kelp Stout. Then Tina Windsor of Picnic Charcuterie uses their stout to brine her smoked hams and serves it in sandwiches topped with kelp salad. Wolf in the Fog chef Nick Nutting uses slivered kelp in seaweed, daikon and puffed wild rice salad, and tops his tuna poke plate with shards of crispy fried nori. Chef Carmen Ingham, who recently left Victoria’s OLO restaurant to head up the kitchens at The Wickaninnish Inn, says he loves cooking with seaweed. Ingham has created an elegant tasting menu starring seaweed, from his albacore tuna with apple dashi and pickled kelp to tender braised pork cheek, cooked with kelp, for its natural hit of umami and its connection to the sea. “I like our tasting menu to represent different parts of the Island, and seaweed is exactly what works to create that oceany, beachy flavour,” says Ingham who uses fresh sea lettuce and nori, pickles rockweed tips and adds dried kombu to dressings and marinades. “I want my food to have a sense of familiarity, but it should also have a sense of place.” It’s always seaweed season on Vancouver Island, but especially as the waters warm and the sun shines. That’s when the kelp beds flourish and the perfect time to eat your sea veggies.
BREAD AND BUTTER BULL KELP
WRINKLED NEW POTATOES COOKED IN SEAWATER & SEAWEED SALSA VERDE
A recipe created by the Tofino Community Food Initiative • 2.5 lb bull kelp • 1 lb onions, peeled • 3 tbsp pickling salt • 2 cups distilled white vinegar • 2 cups sugar • 1 tbsp mustard seed • 1 tsp crushed red pepper flakes • 3/4 tsp celery seed • 3/4 tsp turmeric powder • 1/4 tsp ground cloves
Chef Paul Moran of 1909 Kitchen in Tofino created an entire menu featuring seaweed in every course for the Seaweed Fest. Try his potatoes, cooked in salty seawater with seaweed salsa verde, with grilled salmon. Salsa Verde: • 2 bunches Italian parsley, chopped • 1 tbsp Dijon mustard • 2 tbsp sherry vinegar • 100 g fresh nori or other seaweed leaves • 500 ml cold-pressed virgin canola oil • Salt and pepper to taste • 3 tbsp minced shallot • 2 lb new potatoes with skins, washed • Spring greens or herbs to garnish
In a blender, combine parsley, mustard, vinegar, seaweed, canola oil, salt and pepper and purée until you have achieved the texture of a pesto. Then incorporate shallot by hand with a spatula. Store in the fridge until needed. Cover the potatoes in seawater and bring to a boil. Cook until tender, drain all but 150 ml of the water and reduce in the pan until dry and
potatoes have become coated in sea salt. Hold potatoes in a warm oven before serving; they will become concentrated and wrinkled. Place some of the salsa verde on the bottom of the serving plate, and then arrange the potatoes on top. Garnish with your favourite spring greens or herbs from the garden. Serves 4 to 6.
Scrub the kelp and soak in cold water. Lightly peel the bulbs and stems (stipes) with a vegetable peeler, then slice into thin rings. Reserve blades for another use. Thinly slice the onions. In a large 4-quart pot, combine the salt, vinegar, sugar and spices. Bring to a boil, and add the kelp and onion. Return to a boil and cook for a minute, just to slightly soften kelp. Remove from heat. Ladle solids into small, sterilized jars, then top each up with brine and spices. Wipe the rims of the jars, top with lids, screw on finger tight and process in a boiling water bath canner for 10 minutes. Remove jars, set on a towel to cool. Do not move until sealed.
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Have bike, will explore By Susan Hollis Map design & illustration by Sydney Barnes
T
o travel by bike is one of the few joys that hasn’t changed much over the years. There’s something eternally youthful about setting off on an adventure fuelled by pedal power, friends (or not) and a keen interest to find out what’s around the next bend. There are a number of things that make the South Island pedalfriendly, and it’s not just Victoria’s progressive (if controversial, but we are not going there now) bike lanes. On a warm day, adventure seekers can find any number of routes that will take them to beautiful places, with endless reasons to stop along the way.
Trip A
18 KM
Downtown to Cadboro Bay
Without leaving the city’s boundaries, one of the best cycling routes for exploration hugs the coastline between downtown and Cadboro Bay. While it’s fine to start the route in the middle, we recommend beginning at one end or the other, depending on what part of town you prefer to finish up in, so you get to fully experience this aspect of Victoria’s coastline. If starting downtown around the Fairmont Empress, you’ll quickly exchange the bustling 86
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FairmontEmpress Fisherman's Wharf
Dallas Road
harbourfront for the vast open ocean views that begin as you wend west toward Fisherman’s Wharf, which begs exploring thanks to its colourful float homes, commercial fishing boats and ample food kiosks, before following the road as it turns south along Dallas Road. Dallas Road is known to locals as one of the best walks in the city, framed by high bluffs and anchored by gorgeous pebble beaches, dotted with driftwood and sea foam. It’s also one of the best areas to ride, as the wide
boulevard provides ample space for cars and bikes to enjoy the open ocean views, which often include parasails, kites and, further out to sea, the colourful flags of kitesurfers as they cut back and forth across the bay. As Dallas transitions to Hollywood Crescent approaching Gonzales Bay, riders will find a more residential, less pedestrian-dense oceanfront. A quick stop at Gonzales Beach for a rest stop or a swim in the bay’s warmish, protected waters can be a nice way to cool off and relax before the trip’s hilliest section. This
The South Island is a relatively flat, ocean- and forest-filled cyclist’s dream, with routes that offer up everything from the region’s best swimming holes to culinary pit stops — and even a little bit of shopping along the way. YAM presents three great trips of varying lengths for you to try this summer.
Village of Cadboro Bay CadboroGyro Park
Willows Galley Willows Beach Oak Bay Marina Oak BayBeach Hotel De'lish Gonzales Beach next phase takes riders up Crescent Road to the steep but short rise to the top of King George Terrace where the million-dollar-and-more houses don’t block the million-dollar views. A pullout at the top offers rest benches and an elevated, pristine 180-degree ocean view. After that, it’s smooth sailing down the terrace’s winding other side toward Beach Drive along McNeill Bay, where again the coastline changes to offer a lighthouse view and a narrow, mostly unpopulated — save for the occasional dog walker — stone beach. For lunch or a snack, bikers can hang a left
Victoria Golf Course
off of Beach Drive onto St. Patrick Street to find De’lish a block in on the right-hand side. A full-service catering company doubling as the neighbourhood’s most charming cafe, De’lish has an incredible range of baked goods, savouries and salads for lunch, plus excellent coffees and teas, which can be enjoyed under its trellised, leafy patio or on its perfectly manicured front lawn (and they provide the picnic blankets). Back on route, past McNeill Bay, pedal along the elegant emerald sprawl of the Victoria Golf Club (VGC), which is often dotted with
committed golfers wearing all manner of traditional garb, from plaid knickers to pompoms. Just past the VGC, stop in at the Oak Bay Beach Hotel, where a coffee at Kate’s Cafe or a crisp, cold brew at The Snug will provide the fuel you need for the final leg of your trip. If boats are your thing, stop at the Oak Bay Marina instead, where an excellent, licensed café hovers just above the docks, and curious seals and wellloved boats make for a visual feast. The final push of the trip will take you past Willows Beach — if you’re looking for the best fish and chips in the area, hang a left on YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2019
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Estevan Road and stop at Willows Galley — and into the Uplands, where massive trees overhang double and triple lots with an array of mind-blowing houses to crush on. Leaving the Uplands’ gates on the other side, you’ll have an easy cruise down to the village of Cadboro Bay, where you’ll find everything from the well-established watering hole Smugglers Cove Pub, to sushi at Mutsuki-An and Thai at Thai Lemongrass Restaurant, to Pepper’s — one of the best independent grocery stores around. The village is just steps from the fine white sand of Cadboro-Gyro Park beach and yet another of Victoria’s picture-perfect bays, dotted with boats and paddle boarders. It’s an ideal place to doff the shoes, sink into the sand and watch the sun set. Some people say Antibes is the thing, but we are pretty sure it’s because they haven’t seen Caddy Bay at sunset.
Trip B
48 KM
Rock Bayto Central Saanich
Soften your lines, Soften your lines, not your not your
805 Fairfield Rd Victoria, BC V8V 0A7 T 250.595.3888 W clinic805.ca
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If covering as much ground as possible through various neighbourhoods is appealing to you, try this trip, which kicks off in the offbeat enclave of Rock Bay, a borough filled with everything from welding shops to micro-breweries and artist studios. Rock Bay is also home to a section of the Galloping Goose trail. Named for a noisy rail car that formerly travelled on the Trans Canada Trail between Victoria and Sooke, the Galloping Goose is a 60-kilometre, car-free (aside from crossings) trail that makes covering long distances safe, quiet and easy by bike. Picking up the Goose at Fol Epi on Harbour Road — that is after you fuel up on that bakery’s incredible goodies and coffee — you can cycle north, keeping left to stay on the Goose when it splits onto the Lochside Regional Trail just past Uptown shopping centre. When the trail turns to the right at Interurban Road, take the turn to enjoy the long and winding ride into the Saanich countryside. Go past parks and farms until you reach West Saanich Road, and a must-do stopover at a local treasure called MOSI Bakery, Cafe and Gelateria, which is highly recommended by the weekly cycling group from Russ Hay’s The Bicycle Shop. After fuelling up at MOSI, carry on along West Saanich until it carves left onto Wallace Drive, taking you deeper into the countryside and close enough to The Butchart Gardens to explore that national treasure in all its summer glory. Wallace Drive also swings riders toward Brentwood Bay, where you can head to Café Zanzibar (great eggs Bennies!) by veering left back onto West Saanich Road to the restaurant where it sits at the intersection of Stellys Cross Road. Back on Wallace Drive, heading north, you’ll find yourself deep in Central Saanich farmlands and close to the turnaround point of Mount Newton Cross Road, where an in-house micro-
Fresh Cup Roastery Cafe Cafe Zanzibar Butchart Gardens
Harvest Rd Farm to Table
Adrienne's MOSI
Mattick's Farm
Swan Lake Fol Epi Glo Rock Bay
roastery — Fresh Cup Roastery Café — awaits. If it’s lunch you’re after, the well-established Waddling Dog Bar & Grill is just at the crossing of Mount Newton Cross Road and Highway 17. Wending back toward town along the Lochside Regional Trail will put you in horse country and off the main roads, so you can pedal at your leisure past sprawling equestrian centres and private homes. A favourite pit stop for bikers on this route is Harvest Rd. Farm to Table Grill on Lochside Drive just past Island View Road.
Harvest Rd. gets most of its produce from neighbouring Mitchell’s Farm — a sixth generation family-owned and run Vancouver Island farm (also worth its own pit stop). Your trip will then take you through Cordova Bay on the east side of the Island toward Mattick’s Farm — more specifically Adrienne’s Restaurant & Tea Garden, which is one of the most delicious eateries in the city. Mattick’s Farm also has a number of gift stores and boutiques, plus a gallery and Pure Day Spa, if you’re in need of a proper back rub or
pedicure after your long ride. Lochside Trail continues south past local nature sanctuary Swan Lake — well worth a detour if you have an interest in native flora and fauna. Lochside then meets back up with the Galloping Goose, which will take you back toward your starting point at Fol Epi, but a slight jog to the left before crossing the Selkirk Trestle will take you straight to the oceanside patio at Glo Restaurant + Lounge — as good a place as you could hope to land after an epic half-day ride. YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2019
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Trip C
78 KM
Downtown to the Sooke Potholes
If a longer trip is your thing, the Galloping Goose puts bikers who start downtown within a reasonable range of Sooke, one of the most gorgeous rural neighbourhoods of the South Island. The great thing about the Galloping Goose is that it goes forever, or at least covers some long distances on the Island. Picking it up in the West Shore keeps this trip manageable if you don’t have the time, but those looking for a longer ride can pick an earlier starting point on The Goose — like at Fol Epi on Harbour Road — to extend the ride. Starting at the Galloping Goose entry point just south of the Westshore Town Centre, pedal west along the trail as it winds through the lush forests and farms that make up this remote neighbourhood loved by locals and visitors alike. This is a part of the South Island that is hard to see by car — you’ll be pedaling along waterfront trails hugged by granite outcroppings, and it doesn’t take much of a daydream to imagine what this region was like before paved roads and cars took over. Beautiful working and hobby farms close by means you’ll likely share the trail with the occasional rider on horseback (remember to approach any horse from behind slowly and give its rider ample warning if you’re going to pass). If you’d like to make this an overnight trip, keep an eye out for bed and breakfasts like Blythewood Bed and Breakfast or Whiffin Spit Lodge, both just off the Goose. By the time you’ve worked up an appetite, Stickleback West Coast Eatery is going to be the best thing you’ve encountered since sliced bread, and is a must-do for this ride, as the place is famous for its food, ambience and great service. Once you’ve satiated the beasts of hunger, carry on along the Goose, heading north and following the signs for the Sooke Potholes, one of the province’s most dramatic, photogenic swimming holes. Either enjoy the public beach areas offered at the beginning of the park, or hike farther along the trail to find your own private pools for lounging. This is the place to unpack your towel, picnic and swimsuit and shore up for a while on the warm rock slabs that frame the plunging Sooke River in a series of deep, cold aquamarine pools. Head back into the city (unless you are staying over), refreshed from your swim and inspired by that rural Island scenery you can never get enough of. You’ll sleep well tonight.
A NEW WAY TO SEE THE REGION No matter what your fitness level is or how much time you have, Victoria has something for every cyclist. Threaded with user-friendly bike trails, the city offers up hidden gems to anyone willing to hop on a bike and explore. Out in the fresh air, with new sights to see and new culinary adventures along the way, a cycling adventure is the perfect everyday or stay-cay way to spend your summer. 90
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STYLE WATCH Fashion Stylist: Janine Metcalfe Photos by Jeffrey Bosdet
Sail Away This summer, claim the freedom to pursue your dreams, whether you’re sailing the Salish Sea or sailing through life. While you are at it, feel free to mix and match your prints and patterns with abandon. Go boldly — and don’t be afraid of clashing.
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Irene top and Leona short by Korinne Vader, both available at korinnevader.com. Hat by Lack of Color available at Frances Grey. Left: Anita top by Skye Swimwear and Ginger bottom by Avabell Designs, both available at Paradise Boutique. Dapple Kaftan by Elk and Bangles by Elk, both available at Moden Boutique. Blake Kuwahara Sunglasses available at Maycock Eyecare.
Tank suit by Esther Williams available at Paradise Boutique. Marlise cap by Lillie & Comoe, available at Robertaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hats. Right: Striped knit top by Ganni, Paloma wool Querido pant and Paloma wool Morgui bag, all available at Still Life for Her. Necklace and earrings created locally by Shannon Munro and available at shannonmunro.com. Victoria Beckham sunglasses, available at Maycock Eyecare.
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Ginger bottom by Avabell Designs available at Paradise Boutique. Print top by Sandwich available at Good Bones. Indian silk scarf available at Fan Tan Home & Style. Left: Multiway Swim Suit by LONDRE available at Amelia Lee Boutique. Leopard print skirt by Leisure the Brand available at leisure-thebrand.com. Shannon Munro earrings available at shannonmunro.com. Lack of Color hat available at Frances Grey.
Hair & Make-up: Anya Ellis at Lizbell Agency | Model: Jessica M at Lizbell Agency Thank you to Bill Ehmann and his crew (family) for welcoming us aboard the Joyant.
SCENE
GIRLS WILL BE ... BOYS BELLE WHITE/YAM MAGAZINE
This summer a woman will play the traditionally male role in Blue Bridge’s A Funny Thing Happened On The Way To The Forum, and it’s not just a stunt. It’s a way to make outdated theatre relevant to contemporary audiences. By David Lennam
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Britt Small as Pseudolus in Blue Bridge Theatre’s production of A Funny Thing Happened On The Way To The Forum, which opens August 1.
I
t was the first time in twenty-something years that Britt Small had auditioned for a role. The co-founder of Victoria’s comedy cabaret Atomic Vaudeville and celebrated director-at-large (Ride The Cyclone, My Chernobyl) was chosen to play Pseudolus, the ancient Roman slave trying to win his freedom, in Blue Bridge Theatre’s A Funny Thing Happened On The Way To The Forum, which runs from August 1 to 11. It’s the same role Zero Mostel made his own in the 1966 film version of the bawdy romp of a musical comedy. A traditionally male role. So will it work? According to the play’s director, Kevin McKendrick, who felt “rankled” when faced with a script about old men with power chasing young women without power, Small’s inclusion in the play helps serve his vision of flipping male characters to women to soften some of the show’s more cringeworthy moments and even change the context.
“If it’s a classic, it has to be relevant to a contemporary milieu.”
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“Without rewriting Sondheim’s music or Larry Gelbart’s book, how could we stand that on its head a bit?” muses McKendrick. “If it’s a classic, it has to be relevant to a contemporary milieu.” As for Small, she understands that while some of Forum’s dated sexism just doesn’t play the same way to a modern audience, the farcical aspects, the pure comedy, still stands up. And according to McKendrick, the genderswitch casting works because Small is a natural clown (actually a trained clown) for a part that demands physical hijinks well beyond a spit take. For Small, clown work is a lot more serious than a pie in the face. It’s timing, rhythm and an almost mathematical devotion to finding those places where you stop the action to create the opportunity for comedy. “One of the first exercises you do as a clown is be yourself,” she says. “It’s one of the hardest things to do.” Clown training, she explains, means being coached to do less and less, contrary to the all-action-all-the-time cliché. Being interested instead of interesting is key — interested in the audience, how they’re responding, and then adapting to that. “That’s how you keep your presence very much alive and in the room, as opposed to feeling like people are watching you. You see clowns; they’re always clocking the audience (looking at them, measuring their response).”
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GENDER SHIFT Clowning aside, by no means is swapping out traditional roles simply stunt casting. (Ladies and gentlemen, tonight the part of Jean Valjean will be played by a singing bear.) Instead, it’s part of a necessary shift that sees traditional male roles going to women: Helen Mirren in The Tempest, Glenda Jackson in King Lear and an allfemale Julius Caesar in London and New York. Particularly germane, Whoopi Goldberg took over the role of Pseudolus from Nathan Lane in a Broadway revival of Forum 12 years ago. This summer’s Greater Victoria Shakespeare Festival is also tweaking gender in their Julius Caesar, with some of the lead roles being swapped. Last year they had a female Prospero, a cross-cast Pericles and, before that, a Twelfth Night where all the male roles were played by women and all female roles played by men. Festival artistic director Karen Lee Pickett says when you see a play touted to be universal, and you don’t see yourself represented as a woman or person of colour or whatever, then that play doesn’t speak to you. “You’re going to have a different experience with that.” She says the last three or four years have shown a marked effort from theatre companies to hold up female playwrights to tell different stories with different voices, and, at the same time, to gender-balance the casting.
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Dr. Monica Prendergast, an associate professor in drama education at the University of Victoria, understands why there’s a gender equity problem in theatre. She points to studies that show the Canadian theatre triumvirate of artistic director/director/playwright — in other words, those deciding what gets put on stages — are 70 per cent male. “The majority of plays are written by men, so the majority of protagonists are male.” But, she says, the theatre business is trying to be more mindful with gender equity to give women a crack at some of the great roles. “As a spectator, I’m willing to go there if the experiment is bold, even if it fails. I saw Prince Hamlet in January in Toronto. It didn’t concern me for a moment that Hamlet was a woman.” (Christine Horne, who played that Hamlet, was, in fact, nominated for a Dora Award for outstanding performance.) Back to Small. Remember, she killed it as another man, standing in as a last-minute Harpo Marx in Blue Bridge’s Animal Crackers three seasons ago. She figures the gender flipping is good for Forum, which can feel “a bit dusty, like it’s of that time. It’s still really funny, but it’s hard for it to not feel like a museum piece. This is a way to inject a different kind of energy into it, while still kind of saying the same thing.” A Funny Thing Happened On The Way To The Forum takes place from August 1 to 11 at the Roxy Theatre.
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CULTURE X4 BUSK IT UP
Clowning, fire-eating, maybe a contortionist, some stuff we can’t even describe … and plenty of music. That’s what the Downtown Victoria Buskers Festival promises during five days of free family fun. Scattered about downtown, of course. Downtown Victoria Buskers Festival, July 3 to 7 downtownvictoria.ca
2
THINGS GO BOOM X
Rick Miller’s multimedia masterpiece BOOM struck a chord with Belfry audiences in 2015. Picking up where BOOM left off — at Woodstock in 1969 — BOOM X tackles the music, culture and politics of generation X. Surrounded by stunning visuals, Miller plays more than 100 famous people — musicians, celebrities, politicians — in his own story of growing up, trying to navigate the tangled legacy of the Baby Boom.
MAGIC BREAKERS
Belfry Theatre, July 30 to August 18 belfry.bc.ca
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3
BARD IN THE PARK
4
BEYOND THE SURFACE
Victoria artist Myfanwy Pavelic (1916-2007) was fascinated with the inner and outer dimensions of being human. In an exhibition that spans the artist’s career, guest curator Patricia Bovey explores Pavelic’s ability to capture the fears, vulnerabilities and strengths of her subjects, from Yehudi Menuhin to Prime Minister Pierre Elliott Trudeau to Katharine Hepburn, in works that exude dignity, beauty and the depths of joy, sadness and despair. Legacy Downtown, May 25 to September 21 uvac.uvic.ca
OK, it won’t be King Lear, but the breezy, oceanside setting at Saxe Point Park is the perfect backdrop for the Bard. For the third year, the Greater Victoria Shakespeare Festival will stage a few nights away from their regular outdoor Camosun College digs at this Esquimalt gem with a production of The Two Gentlemen of Verona. Just pretend it’s Milan. But not as warm. Camosun College Lansdowne Campus, July 4 to 27
SIDNEY (250) 656 5441
#1 - 2353 Bevan Avenue, Sidney cruiseshipcenters.com/Sidney
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VICTORIA
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cruiseshipcenters.com/Victoria
*Expedia Extras are per stateroom based on double occupancy on select sailings and vary by cruise line, destination, departure date & stateroom category. Itineraries, programs and policies are subject to change without notice. Valid for new bookings created and deposited April 22 – May 10, 2019, and are subject to availability and may be withdrawn at any time. Additional restrictions apply. Contact your Expedia CruiseShipCenters Vacation Consultant for full terms and conditions.
Saxe Point Park, August 1 to 3 vicshakespeare.com
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DO TELL
WHEELS IN MOTION Chef Kellan (“Kai”) Musseau of Wheelies Motorcycles has something of a cult following among gearheads and foodies alike. By Susan Hollis
B
DEAN AZIM
eauty, they say, is in the eye of the beholder. So it didn’t occur to Kellan Musseau and Joel Harrison that a dark garage with a massive four-post car lift and pieces of a ‘67 Camaro piled in the corner didn’t scream award-winning restaurant. Their original goal was to turn the joint into a motorbike-repair-shop-meets-small-café. But the interior of Wheelies — like their business plan — changed to accommodate a full kitchen and a unique dining space with an adjacent workshop and shared window that bridges two oddly compatible businesses. “It’s filled with the things we love,” says Musseau, Wheelies’ head chef. “I always wanted to ensure we had really nice, good-quality food with everything sourced locally ... it just took off way more than we expected for a little place in Rock Bay.” These days, whether he’s pickling his own locally grown daikon to add to his sandwiches or working on his vintage Harley Davidson Panhead with his dog Winston by his side, Musseau is a self-made guy with a distinctly old-fashioned edge.
What’s your idea of perfect happiness?
What’s your greatest extravagance?
Being surrounded by the things I love and being able to do them every day.
My rusty old Harley parts. They might not seem extravagant to some, but to me they definitely are.
What’s your greatest fear?
Who or what is the greatest love of your life?
Failure.
My partner Avelyn. She’s definitely a rock, and she’s extremely hard-working. She and I are really similar.
What do you admire most in your friends? Loyalty and work ethic. I like to surround myself with people who work hard and are passionate.
What trait do you most deplore in others? Ego. I think in both of these worlds — the food side and the motorcycle side — there can be a lot of ego going on.
Which living person do you most admire? My dad for his business skills and ability to balance family so well; my sister for being the most hardworking, driven individual I know; and my mom for always being the rock for all of us. I ... wouldn’t be where I am today without them!
On what occasion do you lie? I don’t.
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Where are you happiest? In my home shop, working on my bike, with my puppy [Winston] running around.
If you could change one thing about yourself, what would it be? I don’t feel like I need to change anything in myself. There’s plenty of time in the future to do anything I want to do.
What’s your most treasured possession? My Panhead (Harley Davidson bike).
What piece of technology do you wish was never invented? Smart phones. I love them but they drive me crazy.
What do you consider your greatest achievement? Definitely Wheelies is at the top of the list for me. It’s something I’m proud of that’s been years in the making, and it’s helped me come a really long way — professionally and in my goals.
If you were a book, which one would you be? The Cowboy and the Cossack [by Clair Huffaker, about 15 American cowboys who sail into Vladivostock with a herd of 500 cattle]. It’s an obscure Western book.
What piece of technology do you wish existed? A time machine, but it only needs to go back. It doesn’t need to go forward. That’s a little freaky.
If you were to die and come back as a person or a thing, who or what would it be? Probably a cowboy in the 1800s. I’m a huge Western fan.
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This is not an offering for sale. Such offering may be made by Disclosure Statement only. July 2019 E.&O.E. This is not an offering for sale. Such offering may be made by Disclosure Statement only. July 2019 E.&O.E. ® Registered trademarks of Concert Properties Ltd., used under license where applicable. ® Registered trademarks of Concert Properties Ltd., used under license where applicable.