YAM magazine July/August 2024 by Page One Publishing

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Terry Calveley Anna Sterloff

Michael Tourigny Lisa Williams Logan Wilson

Samantha Jensson

Robyn Wildman

Peter Crichton

Kirsten MacLeod

Harley Shim

Dean Innes Glynis MacLeod

D’Arcy Harris Brayden Klein

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Beth Hayhurst

Jacob Garrett

Best Restaurants

YAM’s annual awards celebrate our local culinary heroes and all the delicious things they are cooking up. By

FOOD + DRINK

73 IN SEASON

Tomato Time

All year we eagerly wait for summer’s sweet, juicy, flavourful tomatoes. Enjoy them while they last.

74 DINING OUT Small but Mighty These Victoria restaurants do just one thing, but they do it really, really well.

By Cinda Chavich

75 DINING IN Tastes of Summer Farmers’ marketinspired recipes for the laziest days of the year.

By Joanne Sasvari

82 TASTES + TRENDS Easy Livin’ Argentinian asado at Zambri’s; tandoori to go from Garcha Bros; gourmet hot dogs; smokin’ cocktails.

By Cinda Chavich

84 SIPS Summer of the Spritz Stay cool with these fresh, fizzy thirstquenchers.

By Joanne Sasvari

Cinda Chavich

Duo Café Bakery is your local spot for a perfect pairing of coffee and pastries, scones and tea, milk and cookies, or six of one and half a dozen of the other!

86 Stress Busted

Is everything getting to you? Here’s how stress affects you — and what you can do about it.

By Joanne Sasvari

DEPARTMENTS

EDITOR’S LETTER

HERE + NOW

Why your kitchen needs a counter lamp; five ways to be cool this summer; sound therapy; retro-chic swimwear; local lakes; PFC’s resilience jersey; 50 years for Victoria Women’s Transition House.

IN PERSON

How a knowledge of plants helps ethnobotanist Nancy Turner preserve Indigenous traditions.

By David Lennam

20 LIFE AT HOME

A dream Bear Mountain property takes in the views with space for the whole blended family.

By Danielle Pope

28 STYLE WATCH

Express your unique self in summer’s brightest hues and groovy graphic designs.

Styled by Janine Metcalfe

96 SCENE

The new ArtisTREE Festival brings food, crafts, music and all of us back to the garden. Plus: Culture Calendar.

By David Lennam

98 PERSPECTIVE

Look closer: Romanesco is cauliflower’s cooler cousin.

By Joanne Sasvari

90 Don’t Sleep on Seattle

With its sparkly new waterfront, there’s never been a better time to visit the Emerald City.

By Tom Gierasimczuk

A taste of this place

’ve just returned from a terrific conference called Taste of Place, which was all about connecting Canada’s growers, producers, chefs and diners, with the goal of making this country a “must-visit” culinary destination. (As it should be.) Over three days in Montreal, speaker after speaker made the same point: At a time of so much division, food is the one thing that still brings us together. No matter the culture we come from, the language we speak or the beliefs we hold, food can bring us around the same table, nourishing our souls as meaningfully as it does our bodies.

It was a pretty powerful message, and a profoundly hopeful one, too.

Which brings me to our annual Food + Drink issue and the YAM Best Restaurant Awards, a celebration of the hard-working people who create Victoria’s own unique

It is, I have to tell you, no easy task selecting the best in a city with so much exceptional dining. We are proud to have an independent panel of judges who take these awards very seriously, and we’re excited to share the winners and runners-up — you’ll find a new favourite or two in these pages. Restaurants, after all, aren’t just places to fuel up when you’re hungry. They are where we go to celebrate and to seek comfort, to gather with the people we love, to wind down after a hard day at work, to treat the family just because and, sometimes, to enjoy a little quiet time with a glass of wine and a good book. They are where we discover new cultures, new flavours and maybe a little bit about who we really are, or

And when our chefs seek out the farmer who grows the most fragrant heirloom tomatoes, the forager who brings them bins of earthy morels or the fisher who harvests the sweetest seafood in the most sustainable manner, they are also proud

Supporting local is just what we do here on Vancouver Island. It’s what we’re most hungry for. It is, after all, the true taste of this special place we call home.

Joanne Sasvari, Editor-in-Chief editor@yammagazine.com

A Glam New Getaway

Victorians planning to head up Island this summer to hike Mount Washington or boat around the Discovery Passage now have a great new place to stay — and it's one with some serious design cred. Naturally Pacific Resort just opened a few weeks ago at the Campbell River Golf Club, with a spa, steakhouse and 100 guest rooms and suites. But what really impressed us at YAM was the stylish décor created by Vancouver-based CHIL Interior Design. Inspired by the contours of the surrounding forests and shorelines (and just maybe the topographical lines of the golf course), it's all contemporary chic with cleverly creative touches. You know, just in case you need an excuse to get out

– Soul Food Since 1999 –CELEBRATING OUR 25 th ANNIVERSARY THIS OCTOBER... It’s going to be a party!

NEW FROM DUALIT

The Dualit Handheld Milk Frother includes accessories to make indulgent cappuccinos, hot chocolates, flat whites, lattes and even milkshakes!

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PUBLISHERS Lise Gyorkos, Georgina Camilleri

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Joanne Sasvari

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Jeffrey Bosdet

LEAD GRAPHIC DESIGNER Janice Hildybrant

ASSOCIATE GRAPHIC DESIGNERS Kelly Hamilton, Caroline Segonnes

ADVERTISING CONSULTANTS Deana Brown, Will Gillis, Cynthia Hanischuk, Brenda Knapik

ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATOR Rebecca Juetten

DIGITAL MARKETING

CO-ORDINATOR Claire Villaraza

MARKETING & EVENTS

CO-ORDINATOR Lauren Ingle

FASHION EDITOR Janine Metcalfe

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Cinda Chavich, Tom Gierasimczuk David Lennam, Danielle Pope

PROOFREADER Lionel Wild

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Allison Kuhl, Sergio Petraccone

CONTRIBUTING AGENCIES Alamy p. 90; Getty Images p. 15, 16, 17, 76, 79, 83, 88, 97, 98; Shutterstock p. 78; Stocksy p. 34, 73, 75, 80, 84

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Photo by Jeffrey Bosdet

HERE + NOW

LIGHTEN UP

What your kitchen counter is missing is a lamp.

If there’s one room where proper lighting really matters, it’s the kitchen. After all, you need to see what you’re doing when you’re working with sharp knives and hot pans. But you don’t want it to look like a surgical theatre. That’s why you need a countertop lamp. It both lights up your workspace and creates a warm, welcoming glow as the evening wears down. The best choice is small, dimmable, made from easy-to-clean materials and able to accommodate relatively high wattage bulbs (not candelabra bulbs, for instance). Place it on the counter, in the pantry, on the cookbook shelf — anywhere except right next to a hot stove — and bask in its helpful glow.

5 CHILL WAYS to be cool this summer

Once again, this summer is expected to be hot and dry, and that means you will need to find ways to keep your cool. Us, we plan to park ourselves in front of the AC and not move for two months, but if that’s not an option there are other ways to be chill.

When the mercury soars, health-care experts advise, above all, staying hydrated: Spritz your skin with cool water and drink plenty of water. (Skip the booze and caffeine, though; they are both dehydrating.) Avoid strenuous exercise at the hottest times of day. Stick to the shade as much as you can. Take special care with young children, older adults and pets, all of whom are especially vulnerable to the heat. And consider these five cooling ideas.

Summery Slip-ons

Cool Treats

I scream, you scream, we all scream for locally handcrafted popsicles. Kulapops come from the same folks that make 49 Below Ice Cream; they’re inspired by our favourite childhood treats, but in all-grownup and crave-worthy flavours like coconut mango, Vietnamese coffee and a refreshing ginger-cucumber. We’re feeling cooler — make that “kula” — already. kulapops.ca

For hundreds of years, people in hot, sunny Spain have been wearing the flat, lightweight, rope-soled, perfectfor-summer footwear known as espadrilles. This summer, espadrilles are everywhere and in every style from sneakers to high-heeled wedge sandals. Two we like: the Bueno Nars slip-ons from Heart & Sole Shoes and the slingback Toni Pons Bernia sandals at Waterlily Shoes. heartandsoleshoes.ca, waterlilyshoes.com

Linen Layers

We’ve been dressing ourselves in linen for at least 10,000 years, likely much longer, and no wonder: Linen is strong, absorbent, dries quickly and is a terrific conductor of heat, meaning it keeps you cool in summer and warm in winter. It’s also super on trend right now. You can find lovely loose linen separates at Butik Naturals in Sidney or online at glamandfame.com

A Head Start

Protect your noggin from sunstroke and your nose from sunburn with a wide-brimmed hat that is as stylish as it is practical. Try a bucket hat, fedora or panama in straw or sun-proof fabric — Adventure Clothing has a wide range for men and women — or go for full drama with a glam ultrawide brim paloma or bondi hat. adventureclothing.ca

A Fan Base

The first time we saw a portable neck fan we scoffed. And then we tried it. Consider us converted. These plastic gadgets look sort of like space-age headphones, but loop around your neck and waft cool air toward your face. JisuLife is just one brand that makes them; they also offer a range of tabletop and handheld fans. jisulife.com

WAVE GOODBYE TO STRESS

Sound therapy for overactive minds.

As you lie on the Spa Wave bed at The Westin Bear Mountain’s Amatista Spa, your everactive monkey brain may be tempted to try and figure out the science behind it.

Based on technology designed by the U.S. Army to treat soldiers with post-traumatic stress disorder, it uses something called binaural acoustic and dynamic stimulation to conduct quantum harmonic sound therapy.

Then again, you should probably just let yourself be soothed by the gentle acoustic waves that vibrate gently through the water wave bed while a reflexology practitioner massages your hands and feet. The 45-minute multi-sensory experience is designed to encourage mindfulness, meditation, mood enhancement and deep relaxation, “like the best sleep you’ve ever had,” by training the brain to relax.

Suit Yourself

We’re smitten by the vintage vibe of Ola Dubois swimwear. But that’s not all there is to love about this local brand.

Designed by Dani Dubois and available at her boutique on Fort Street as well as online, these pieces are made from high-quality recycled polyester that is both wicking and anti-bacterial. They are also designed to be as comfortable and long-lasting as they are pretty, and their supportive tops, high waists and generous range of sizes make them flattering for almost every body type. Plus, because they are made right here in Victoria from mostly upcycled materials, they require almost no energy, transport or resources to produce. So you can feel as good about them as you look in them.

Well. When YAM recently tried it, after just a few minutes all our pent-up tension drifted dreamily away, leaving us refreshed and revitalized. And that monkey brain? Pretty sure it was taking a nap. amatistaspa.ca

There are three one-piece styles — the ruched Liz, plunging halter-neck Carmen and simple Farrah — as well as separately sold tops and bottoms. All come in colourful patterns (florals, polka dots, cherries, tropical motifs) and a handful of plain hues.

Ola Dubois also sells gorgeously patterned silk or cotton robes to toss over your shoulders, ensuring that whether you’re heading to the lake or the pool or just the lounger on your back deck, you’ll definitely make a splash this summer. oladubois.ca

the stylish swim with Ola Dubois’s Marilyn top and Grace bottom.

LAKE LIFE

Escape the heat with a dip in one of these great local swimming holes. Greater Victoria is surrounded by ocean, but it also has no shortage of freshwater lakes perfect for swimming, floating or just dipping your toes. Here are some of our favourites.

Thetis Lake > This popular lake lies within the 800-plus-hectare Thetis Lake Regional Park, which is an excellent place for a hike, picnic or paddle. It’s a fave destination for families — including the four-legged members, who have their own dog beach — and although it can get pretty crowded on a sunny day, you can always follow one of the many trails to a more secluded spot.

Durrance Lake > The largest (though still smallish) of the three lakes in Mount Work Regional Park offers great swimming just 35 minutes from downtown. A walking loop circles the lake and offers plenty of access to its cool waters — but not for anything with a motor, making this a quiet and peaceful place to take a dip. Keep an eye out for turtles enjoying the sun as much as you do.

Prospect Lake > Although much of the lakeside is now home to private residences, there are still four public access points at this family-friendly Saanich spot for fishing, swimming, snorkelling and generally escaping the summer heat. Also: Just to the west you’ll find Eagles Lake, a tiny, warm lake especially popular for families with young children.

Elk Lake > Connected by a narrow channel to the smaller Beaver Lake, this well-loved destination along the Pat Bay Highway has it all when it comes to summer fun: sandy beaches, hiking trails, playgrounds, great fishing, terrific swimming, boat launches, a concession stand, picnic and washroom facilities, even an equestrian centre and off-leash area.

Get in

DANI DUBOIS

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Resilience in Purple and Teal

If you’ve ever been to a Pacific FC game at Starlight Stadium, you’ve seen plenty of fans of the professional soccer team wearing its purple-and-teal kit.

But it’s the secondary kit we love best, this year especially, because it tells a story that is all about hope and resilience.

It’s designed by Coast Salish artist Maynard Johnny Jr., whose traditional name is Thii Hayqwtun and who previously designed the 2022 jersey. His 2024 jersey features a stylized salmon, a fish that not only symbolizes the West Coast, but travels thousands of kilometres from where it is born and always returns home despite countless obstacles along the way.

“The salmon represents resilience and that reminds me of Indigenous people surviving oppression in Canada,” Johnny has said. “This jersey will create awareness and raise questions among Canadians about how we can make a positive change in the future and inspire our youth.”

But it’s not enough just to wear a powerful symbol on your sleeve. Johnny and Pacific FC are also donating $20 from the sale of each $124.99 resilience kit jersey to two organizations: Hope and Health (which works to provide Indigenous children and youth with access to sport) and the Indian Residential School Survivors Society (which provides essential services to residential school survivors and families experiencing intergenerational trauma).

Now that’s something we can all cheer for. pacificfcfanshop.ca.

SEATTLE GETAWAY GIVEAWAY

You could win an FRS Clipper trip!

One lucky winner (and a friend) will be hopping aboard the FRS Clipper for a round trip for two between Victoria and Seattle, Washington.

The prize, valued at US$580, is for Vista class travel aboard this sleek, high-speed catamaran, offering a relaxing and scenic cruise experience that takes just under three hours in either direction.

This Victoria Clipper Vista Class gift certificate includes fuel surcharge, port fee and security fee; note that there are no blackout dates, but travel must be reserved in advance and completed by the expiry date of September 30, 2025.

If you plan your trip for fall, you’ll land in the height of the culture season, with events like Bumbershoot, the celebrated arts and music festival (August 31 to September 1) and the fall season opening concert at Benaroya Hall (September 14). Or just plan to raise a stein at the famous Fremont Oktoberfest, considered one of the 10 best in the world (September 20 to 22). There’s plenty more to see and do; check out our story on page 90 for ideas.

To enter, visit yammagazine.com or scan the QR code. Contest ends August 23, 2024. For more information about FRS Clipper Vacations, call 1-800-888–2535 or visit clippervacations.com

SHELDON

HELP WHEN IT’S NEEDED MOST

For 50 years, Victoria Women’s Transition House has been there for those affected by domestic abuse.

In 1974, a small but mighty collective formed in Victoria. They opened a modest dropin and resource centre, and transformed the lives of women and children affected by intimate partner violence.

Fifty years later, Victoria Women’s Transition House has grown — a lot — and so has the need for it. VWTH now comprises five facilities, more than 70 staff members and a similar number of volunteers. Each year, it helps more than 2,000 women, binary individuals and those who identify as women, as well as hundreds of children and youth. Abuse, after all, is depressingly widespread. According to a 2022 Government of Canada report, 44 per cent of women aged 15 and older have reported some kind of abuse in their intimate partner relationship. And abuse can happen to anyone at any age, in any culture and at any socio-economic level. It’s not always physical; it can also be emotional, with the abuser using money, isolation, intimidation, threats and/or access to children to control their partner. (If this sounds like you or someone you know, please reach out to VWTH or someone you trust.)

VWTH is there to help with counselling, emergency shelter, education, a 24-hour crisis line and other services. This fall, the organization is launching a second-stage short- and long-term transitional housing program in the Westshore, offering studio, one-, two- and three-bedroom units for women and children seeking safety from violence. Meanwhile, to mark its 50th anniversary, the VWTH is holding an alumni event this fall to pay tribute to and gratitude for its current and former staff, board members, volunteers, donors and supporters. transitionhouse.net

The Knowledge Keeper

In preserving Indigenous philosophy and practice, ethnobotanist Nancy Turner builds partnerships through plants.

By David Lennam

by Jeffrey Bosdet

It’s not surprising that Nancy Turner became one of the world’s leading ethnobotanists.

When she was 14, Turner began writing a book about lichens, simply because there were no good reference books available. But even by then, “Nancy Nature,” as she was called in grade school, had already logged a decade identifying plants and memorizing their names, first as a youngster in Missoula, Montana, picking chokecherries and sarvisberry with her sister; then, from age five in Victoria, where she joined a junior natural history group and recalls feeding her Grade 4 friends dandelion salad (“much to their mothers’ horror,” she says).

Photo

By high school, after coming across a pair of books that would define her destiny (The Ethnobotany of the Thompson Indians of British Columbia and Ethnobotany of Western Washington: The Knowledge and Use of Indigenous Plants by Native Americans), Turner declared her intention to pursue ethnobotany. It says so right there in her class yearbook.

“I was really fortunate to grow up in a naturalhistory family,” she says. Indeed, both Turner’s father and grandfather were entomologists. The natural world was wide open for her as she began deciphering its codes as a teenager.

Now 77, the UVic professor emeritus and member of the orders of B.C. and Canada, who makes her home on Protection Island near Nanaimo, remains a towering figure in academe, though she presents as gently soft-spoken and humble in person.

LEARNING FROM THE ELDERS

Turner’s had a great deal written about her — and she’s written a great deal herself: 30 books and counting. A much sought-after speaker (she gets five requests a day), a conversation with her is like a class in how much our lives are defined by plants.

She’s best known for her connection with Indigenous communities and has spent more than a halfcentury documenting and promoting the traditional knowledge of plants including foods, materials and medicines in the territories of the Haida and Kwakwaka’wakw, Secwepemc, Stl’atl’imx, Nlaka’pamux, Tsilhqot’in and Gitga’at nations.

Theirs were sustainable agricultural practices, notes Turner, with a spiritual aspect and belief in a life force binding all living things.

RECONCILIATION AND RENEWAL

One could argue that Turner’s work is more relevant than ever as the relationship between Indigenous and non-Indigenous people in Canada starts to mature into reconciliation. Her exhaustive research into plants and how they inform Indigenous culture, along with her deep relationship with elders — from whom she has gleaned much of her knowledge — give her a rare understanding of the kinds of partnerships we need to forge.

Asked what reconciliation looks like and whether we’re headed in the right direction, Turner replies that it’s a long, slow, reflective and interactive process.

“We have to work and take things, as my friend [Nuu-chah-nulth Hereditary Chief] Richard Atleo says, from the ‘here and now.’ We can’t go back and redo the past, but all of us can educate ourselves about what happened to Indigenous peoples across the country when Europeans arrived and started to ‘take over,’ usually without invitation or permission, and what has happened since, with the horror of residential schools, loss of land rights, fishing rights, languages and ceremonial rights like the Potlatch.”

“

It’s really important to develop a partnership, not integrate the knowledge, because they’re different knowledge systems, but to listen to people who are living on the land and are very familiar with the land and the species in their territories.

“That’s why they were very careful and asked permission even to harvest,” she says. “My friend [Secwepemc Elder Dr.] Mary Thomas, she taught me so much, like how to harvest the inner bark of red willow … We went out to do this and the first thing she did was talk to the bush and offer it some tobacco as a gift, thank it, and was very careful and took only one branch from the tree because that’s what she needed and made the medicine. So each step involved a conscious developing of the relationship.”

I ask whether we should look to Indigenous knowledge as a way forward. Turner doesn’t say no, but qualifies that their knowledge isn’t something one can just help oneself to and use without permission.

“It’s really important to develop a partnership, not integrate the knowledge, because they’re different knowledge systems, but to listen to people who are living on the land and are very familiar with the land and the species in their territories.”

Turner suggests recognizing and acknowledging the importance and value of Indigenous languages and knowledge is a good way forward. Along with full and equal partnerships.

“Recognition, respect, reciprocity, revitalization and renewal are what we all need to be a part of,” she says. “But making sure that First Peoples are given their own voice about what they want, how they see their future, and how we as non-Indigenous people can support them is crucial.”

Her love and respect for the First Nations people she’s collaborated with for 50 years is a reciprocal one. In the words of one elder, “Without Nancy … we would have lost our family’s medicines.”

I suggest, rather boldly, that perhaps the most important work Turner has done is to preserve Indigenous wisdom and share that knowledge with the rest of us.

“I think that’s a responsibility for anyone like myself who has had the privilege of being able to learn this knowledge to make sure that other people understand how important it is,” she confides, then has a giggle about what an elder of Bella Coola’s Nuxalk Nation once told the inquisitive ethnobotanist.

“ ‘You white people ask too many questions.’ I can hear Margaret Siwallace say that. ‘Just listen. Just listen.’ ”

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Their Side of the Mountain

A dramatic Bear Mountain estate gives one family the space to blend.

By Danielle Pope | Photos by Sergio Petraccone*

Lewis Ratcliff considers himself an expert on all things Bear Mountain — especially when it comes to real estate. So, when a lot came available with a full ocean view and south-facing light, he knew this was the moment to build his family their own dream home.

“We’ve lived on Bear Mountain for about 10 years and discussed building, but rarely do lots this good come up,” he says. “It’s never the perfect time to do it, but it was as good a time as any to bite the bullet and go.”

The choice would win Ratcliff, Realtor with Engel & Völkers Ratcliff Group, a three-minute commute to his office, unobstructed views of the ocean, mountains and Malahat — and significantly more space for his blended family, which includes two teens and a preschooler. The family transitioned from their 3,800-square-foot home to a fully customized threefloor, six-bedroom, six-bathroom, 5,500-square-foot estate, complete with an additional 500-square-foot garage and secondary suite.

“We loved our old home and it worked well for us at the time, but we knew we needed something we could all grow into,” says Amy Ratcliff, who helped design the home. “We also knew we would have to mix Lewis’s and my design preferences together. Lewis prefers modern and I like more traditional designs, so we struck a balance.”

When the Ratcliffs transformed a vacant hillside lot into their dream home, they knew they would need to create enough space for each member of their blended family, and furnish it with materials that are as durable as they are beautiful. To do so, homeowner Amy Ratcliff worked with interior designer Sam Scott to create a cohesive look of light creams, warm browns and inviting textures that link each room with the rest.

*Unless otherwise noted.

AWARD-WINNING DESIGN

The family drafted in the help of designer Sam Scott, along with LIDA Construction and Munro Engineering, to forge into reality a cliffside luxury villa that aligned with the Bear Mountain community while standing out the way the Ratcliffs wanted. Due to the complexities — and successes — of this geotechnical build, the home has won awards at the local and provincial levels, including project of the year in the 2023 CHBA Vancouver Island Building Excellence Awards, and has been nominated for national awards.

“The end product was very successful, and it came with challenges: This was a home built on the side of a mountain and, at the time we built this house, we were facing massive supply-chain issues around ordering materials,” says Dave Stephens, principal and president of LIDA Construction. “Our clients make the final decision as to what they want in their house, but we are here to be consultants and guide that experience until we get to construction.”

Above: The home was chosen in part for its mountain views. Right: Amy, who has her own background in interior design, chose the archway from the dining area through to the kitchen to create an entrance between two areas of the home, which, like the rest of the rooms, are linked by the oak flooring that runs throughout.

HUSSEL MEDIA

Enjoy a variety of fresh new menu items on FARO’s sun-soaked patio with fire features overlooking the Oak Bay Beach Hotel’s courtyard.

Think honey roast pear and toasted hazelnut over fresh burrata, Angus beef meatballs, arugula salad, and pizzas such as the Gamberi and Finocchio.

Make a reservation at oakbaybeachhotel.com/dine

“We wanted to make a place where people would love being home together, and still have the space they need ...”

In keeping with Bear Mountain’s build standards (which don’t allow faux wood or flashing) the face of the home’s exterior is made from pure stone and natural wood. The design keeps cohesion along the street, but also demands additional architectural considerations due to weight and height parameters for this hillside structure.

“We wanted to make a place where people would love being home together, and still have the space they need, so that meant making room for sleepovers and giving everyone room to hang out,” says Amy, who manages the Ratcliff Group team. “Being in real estate, we understand the layout might not work for every family, but we built this home for us.”

AT ONE WITH NATURE

To keep street cohesion, the family had to adhere to certain Bear Mountain guidelines. For instance, they had to use all-real materials on the exterior, and the natural stone cladding on the front of the house upped costs and engineering calculations. While almost nothing was sacrificed, even with supply-chain issues, the family did compromise on expanding the backyard, which, given its cliffside location, would have added a significant cost.

Lewis himself grew up in Victoria, but has found the Bear Mountain atmosphere idyllic. He’s also seen the demographic shift in the time he’s lived there, and firmly believes it’s the place to be.

“Once we got out here, we knew we were never going to leave Bear Mountain. You

HUSSEL

MEDIA

can get downtown in 20 minutes; you’re surrounded by golf courses and mountains. We love it,” he says. “When we first moved here, there were a lot of young families moving in. Now, you’re seeing more people coming here to semi-retire, play golf, slow down — your neighbours are a nice mix of people.”

PROJECT SUPPORT

Designer: Boss Design

Interior designer: Sam Scott; LIDA Construction interior design team; client

Builder: LIDA Construction

Engineering: Munro Engineering

Plumbing fixtures: The Ensuite Bath & Kitchen Showroom

Cabinets: Thomas Philips Woodworking

Doors, hardware and windows: Slegg Building Materials

Millwork: Amberwood Floors and Fine Finishing

Tile, stairs and flooring: Hourigan’s Flooring

Countertops: Colonial Countertops

Light fixtures: McLaren Lighting

Stair Railing: Quality Aluminum Railings

Fireplace: Heat Savers Home Comfort

Exterior Finishing: Vic City Exteriors, Stonecrest Masonry

Roofing: Perrier Roofing

CUSTOM OUTDOOR KITCHENS

Fashion

Stylist: Janine Metcalfe

Photographer: Jeffrey Bosdet

Express Yourself Express Yourself

Summer is the perfect time to make your own bright, bold personal fashion statement with vivid hues and groovy graphics.

This page: GO FOR GRAFFITI

Kyla graphic tee by ELK and Tianna trouser in soft blush by NÜ Denmark, both available at Amelia Lee Boutique. Earrings, stylist’s own.

Left: KICK IT WITH FLARE

Pop striped button-up shirt and Rib Kick Flare trouser in tomato, both by DONNI, available at Still Life Boutique. Green Vitex Uni Tee by Our Sister, available at Still Life Boutique. Ping Pong sporty short crew socks by Hansel from Basel available at De Mode En Vogue. Blue and white Wonders

Basille loafers, available at Waterlily Shoes. Earrings, stylist’s own.

This page: MAKE IT ABSTRACT

Short-sleeved blue cardigan, blue trousers and T-shirt with abstract statement print, all by Luisa Cerano available at Bagheera Boutique. Kaira loafer/sneaker hybrid by Hispanitas, available at Waterlily Shoes. Earrings, stylist’s own.

Right: LOVE YOUR LINEN

Hot pink dress by Linen Luv and Sienna necklace in yellow, both available at Butik Naturals. Patched two-tone socks by B.ella, available at De Mode En Vogue. Bianca sandals by A.S. 98, available at Waterlily Shoes.

This page: BE ARTFUL Blue cowl-neck dress by Joseph Ribkoff available at Adventure Clothing. Tights by Tabbisocks available at De Mode En Vogue. Sandals by A.S. 98, available at Waterlily Shoes. Earrings, stylist’s own.

Right: SHOW YOUR STRIPES

Multi-stripe sweater by FRNCH Paris, available at Amelia Lee Boutique. Orange bathing suit top and bottom by FIG Clothing, Kooringal Sandy visor and Cotopaxi hip pack, all available at Adventure Clothing. Shoes by Hispanitas, available at Waterlily Shoes.

On page 8: MOODY HUES Z SUPPLY crochet dress and FRAAS scarf, both available at Pharmasave Broadmead. Bracelets, stylist’s own.

Model: Jennifer Anoruie/Lizbell Agency

Hair and makeup: Anya Ellis/Lizbell Agency

2024 Restaurants Best

This year, fine dining was refined in Victoria thanks to a splashy newcomer, but we also saw an influx of exciting international flavours at small independent eateries. The scene has never been as deliciously diverse, and we can’t wait to celebrate it with you.

By Cinda Chavich | Photos by Jeffrey Bosdet*

Victoria has long been known for its rich and creative restaurant scene — independent operators and passionate sole proprietors on the cutting edge of trends, in what might be called the “small but mighty” genre.

Upscale dining on the Island usually translates to fresh, local, carefully curated ingredients presented with a professional yet laidback vibe. It’s smallcity dining, where a business lunch might be a really good handmade taco or a brunch meeting at one of the city’s famed breakfast spots.

But this year, as we celebrate YAM’s fifth restaurant awards, the highly anticipated (and long, long awaited) opening of Marilena Cafe & Raw Bar added something new to the mix — a major investment from Vancouver’s Toptable Group, creating what can only be called a big splash in this small pond.

It represents a new rung on the local fine-dining ladder, a big-city-style culinary experience with some serious sophistication that Victoria diners

have enthusiastically embraced. Like Toptable’s other celebrated restaurants in Vancouver, Whistler and New York, there’s a high level of service and design, a well-stocked wine cellar and commitment to top-quality ingredients, including the best fish and seafood from the Pacific Northwest and around the world.

But there have been other exciting new openings, too, with more to come.

Jess Taylor settled his popular shellfish catering business, the Wandering Mollusk, into a permanent space called Shuck Taylor’s, where you can slurp an array of freshly shucked West Coast bivalves or indulge in a big, buttery lobster roll. The team from Wind Cries Mary expanded operations to open Rudi, with a vintage European-inspired menu. Taisho Japanese Grill & Bar, the latest offering from the Nubo restaurant group, opened in Cook Street Village. Tombo is a new downtown bakery café featuring sourdough breads, pastries, casual lunch fare and takeout from former Crust Bakery owner Tom Moore. And the classic Neapolitan pizza from tiny Seal Point Pizza in Fairfield is worth the drive, wherever you live.

We’re also enjoying authentic fare from around the world, thanks to an influx of passionate people sharing their flavours from home.

Try a taste of the Philippines with a modern twist from Jonna Deutscher and Keem Herrera at Ate *A Restaurant or explore chef Ervin Maliwanag’s traditional Filipino menu at Benjamin’s Cafe. Have a bowl of homestyle Asian noodles at JiangYun Noodle House or beautiful Syrian food at Syriana. The chefs at Cafe Malabar are offering some delicious South Indian dishes that reflect their shared roots in Kerala. And at Zambri’s, Argentinianborn chef Matias Sallaberry wows with his pop-up asado experience, a long-table, South American-style barbecue feast.

And there are even more exciting new tastes to come in 2024. For instance, we can’t wait to see the beloved Sooke Harbour House reopen later this year with managing partners chef Melissa Craig and Andre Saint-Jacques — the seasoned team that led Whistler’s iconic Bearfoot Bistro for more than 20 years — at the helm.

Meanwhile, dig into our 2024 YAM Best Restaurant Awards, and celebrate the world of delicious new flavours in this beautiful city we all call home.

Restaurant of the Year

THE COURTNEY ROOM

The Magnolia Hotel, 619 Courtney Street | $$-$$$ thecourtneyroom.com | Reservations strongly suggested

When fans talk about The Courtney Room, they point to the creative cuisine, the craft cocktails, the deep wine list, the professional service and artful ambience — in short, the whole hospitality experience.

It’s that complete package that puts this restaurant at the top of our awards list this year: a dining spot that’s loved by locals and visitors alike, whether you come for the chef’s seasonal tasting menu, a happy-hour drink or a breakfast meeting.

“The team is the best we’ve had in the last five years,” says executive chef Brian Tesolin, whose innovative Pacific Northwest cuisine is at the centre of The Courtney Room’s success. “We all have the same vision — to create a finedining experience with the best quality products we can find.”

The restaurant is part of The Magnolia Hotel & Spa and, like this locally owned boutique property, it’s a carefully curated, stylish space, upscale yet intimate and inviting.

“The goal for this restaurant, for the team, is that it’s not a hotel restaurant, but rather it’s a restaurant that operates in a hotel,” says Tesolin.

That means juggling competing demands, and it’s impressive to see what comes out of Tesolin’s compact kitchen — from room service for hotel guests to breakfast service, weekend brunch, lunch and happy hour, plus the innovative selections on his dinner menu, featuring wild foods delivered by a local forager, pristine produce from nearby Island farms, and premium beef and fish, dry-aged in house.

Above: Fresh, seasonal pasta like this casarecce with mushrooms and nettle pesto is made in house every day.

Right: Wine director Colin Davidson (left) and executive chef Brian Tesolin have fun pairing the menu’s complex flavours.

At TCR, the menu always features a fresh catch of the day.

“We all have the same vision — to create a finedining experience with the best quality products we can find.”

The Courtney Room relies on fresh, seasonal ingredients from farmers, fishers and foragers. They could include wild salmon and crisp local greens.

“We have 21 different services a week,” he says, “and we are creating five menus a week, to make sure we can use all of that local product properly.”

Tesolin’s seasonal menus change regularly. They might feature catch-of-the-day halibut with kosho emulsion; a seared duck breast with gnocchi, morel mushrooms and rosehip jus; or a special of pretty fuchsia-hued beet-and-potato gnocchi with fresh peas and blue cheese. The popular duck fat potatoes may be topped with shaved pine mushrooms and your brunch eggs served with local nixtamalized tortillas and fermented black bean salsa.

If all that doesn’t sound like enough, Tesolin is also channelling his Italian heritage, studying the traditional art of hand-rolled pasta and offering at least four choices for dinner service, whether tender linguine with clams or pillowy pockets of ricotta-stuffed agnolotti.

Beyond the food and drink is the design of the chic, two-tiered space. Like the Art Deco-inspired exterior of the hotel, the room is reminiscent of an elegant Parisian brasserie, a study in understated luxury, with soaring ceilings, a glassed-in wine room, soft colours and tactile textures throughout, from the velvet banquettes to the bronze bead curtains and chevron marble tiles.

Ensuring that all works in perfect harmony is a real team effort, from the leadership of hotel manager Bill Lewis and F&B manager Renée Lauzon to chef Tesolin and his chef de cuisine Graeme Parker, super sommelier Colin Davidson and bar manager Anton Wilson.

Winner of several national awards since opening in 2018, TCR is a restaurant worth celebrating.

From his small kitchen, chef Tesolin produces a huge array of dishes for everything from breakfasts to banquets — including sophisticated dinner items like this Fraser Valley duck breast with morels, gnocchi and brassicas.

Chef of the Year

CLARK DEUTSCHER, Hanks, Nowhere and Ate *A Restaurant

1001 Douglas Street | $$-$$$

atearestaurant.com/hanks-a-restaurant | Reservations suggested

Clark Deutscher is the first to admit that he’s not a chef, in the strictly “culinary school, Red Seal-certified” sense of the word. He’s a hard-working and creative cook, but his restaurant experience comes from his own entrepreneurial endeavours, with a focus on ethical ingredients and the local farmers who produce them.

“I read a lot, I travel a lot, and I just love food,” says Deutscher, who started his career as a banker and now has three restaurants, clustered together in the historic Sussex Building on Douglas Street.

It all started with his obsession with competitive slow BBQ and a little joint in Ucluelet. A decade ago, he opened the meat-centric Hanks in Victoria, where he honed his cooking skills and gathered a solid following for his nose-to-tail butchery. Next came Nowhere, with co-owner Devon Revelle, channelling the same hyper-local ideas in seafood-forward tasting menus.

Last year, his wife Jonna — a geologist with an MBA — gave up her day job to open Ate, a casual spot showcasing her Filipino family recipes, with a modern twist.

Lobster, scallops and morels at Nowhere.

Clark Deutscher keeps his focus on ethical ingredients and the local farmers who produce them.

Deutscher is in charge of developing menus for all three restaurants — as seasonal ingredients arrive from their farm partners, he riffs on the possibilities. At Hanks there’s a $50 “Today’s Best Things” menu and a $75 chef’s tasting menu, along with a variety of innovative plates. It’s a scratch kitchen on every level — whether the Filipino purple yam (ube) buns made with house-milled Island grains for Ate or the ricotta cheese for smoked sturgeon agnolotti. A zero-waste approach makes for innovative, and sometimes challenging, ideas. The Count Chocula pig blood, chocolate and cinnamon ice cream, based on an Italian dessert, is just one example.

Deutscher, a self-described food geek, happily juggles it all and it’s always an adventure to see what he’ll cook up next.

Runners -up:

Corbin Mathany, Ugly Duckling Dining & Provisions

Ken Nakano, Inn at Laurel Point

At Nowhere and his other two restaurants on Douglas Street, chef Clark Deutscher brings a hungry creativity to local, seasonal and ethically raised ingredients like this tender duck breast.

Best New Restaurant

MARILENA CAFE & RAW BAR

1525 Douglas Street | $$$

marilenacafe.com | Reservations strongly suggested

Vancouver’s Toptable Group truly raised the bar in Victoria’s restaurant scene when they opened Marilena Cafe & Raw Bar this year.

Marilena is a beautifully designed, upscale space in The Rotunda building, and covers all of the dining bases, whether you want top drawer sushi, a shareable feast of chic small plates or a spectacular seafood tower of chilled oysters and the finest caviar.

If you’ve dined in any of Toptable’s other properties in Vancouver and Whistler (CinCin Ristorante, Blue Water Cafe, Araxi), you’ll recognize the level of service and selection here. This is a fine-dining experience on every level. And Victorians are clearly impressed — the restaurant is busy serving 250 guests, 90 per cent of them local diners, every night.

Executive chef Kristian Eligh is a Victoria native who returned to his hometown after years of cooking in Vancouver to plan and open Marilena.

PHOTOS: ALLISON KUHL

Seafood is the star at Marilena — and so is the beautifully designed dining room.

“The first year has been quite a whirlwind.”

For the ultimate “wow” dish, you can’t go wrong with Marilena’s La Tour, a threetier tower of raw and chilled seafood that includes oysters, sushi, ceviche, tuna tartare and a whole Atlantic lobster.

He can now be found most nights leading his team and entertaining guests in the restaurant’s impressive open kitchen.

“The first year has been quite a whirlwind,” says Eligh. “We wanted to create a restaurant that Victoria could get behind.”

And he seems to have hit that sweet spot with his exciting and approachable seafood-forward menu. Dinner might start with the signature seared aburi sushi from the raw bar, with a trio of crispy little tacos (filled with steelhead trout or lobster) or a classic shrimp cocktail. There are pasta and vegetarian plates — English pea agnolotti with black truffle butter or charred cauliflower with garlic cashew emulsion — and dishes designed “for the table,” such as whole grilled branzino or steaks with sides of crispy onion rings, truffle fries and brussels sprouts.

Marilena, named for owner Francesco Aquilini’s late mother, also means “bright star of the sea,” appropriate for this sparkling new dining destination.

Runners -up: Block Kitchen + Bar | Cafe Malabar

Dishes at Marilena are approachable yet flavourful, inspired by global traditions. Among them, this Mediterranean-style grilled octopus with spicy ’nduja sofrito and gigante beans.

Chef Kristian Eligh (right) has come home to Victoria to lead a powerhouse team at Marilena.

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Best Casual

BLOCK KITCHEN +

BAR

#101-538 Yates Street | $$ blockvictoria.ca | Reservations optional

With its exposed brick walls and colourful murals, friendly staff and globally inspired dishes, the scene at Block Kitchen is clearly convivial. It’s a buzzy spot with mostly high-top tables and bar seating, the kind of place to slide in for a few drinks and bites to share, with two or 10 of your friends.

The original location is in Banff, but co-founder/manager Andy Burke and chef Tyler Thompson opened Block Kitchen here last year. They’re all about creative cocktails, local craft beer and shareable plates — from the Sake-tini drizzled with sesame oil to Korean-grilled short ribs with housemade kimchi, octopus takoyaki dumplings or Tokyo fries dusted with sumac and nori flakes. It’s the kind of menu filled with delicious surprises that will have you coming back to try it all.

Runners-up

FARO Handcrafted Pizza and Tasting Room

L’Apéro Wine & Cheese Bistro

Casual bites at Block Kitchen + Bar include, from left, kaarage chicken skewers, pork belly with Japanese flavours and bao with sausage, and are best paired with cocktails like the Negroni on tap.

Best Big Night Out

MARILENA CAFE & RAW BAR

1525 Douglas Street | $$$ marilenacafe.com | Reservations strongly suggested

When you really want to impress someone — or celebrate in high style — Marilena is the place to see and be seen. The sheer opulence of the surroundings and the wide selection of creative dishes to share make it the perfect spot for an intimate date night or a lavish party. Food lovers will want to book one of the four chef’s table seats that give you a view of the action in Marilena’s impressive kitchen, or you can opt for a table for two or the private dining room. Start with something from the dedicated sushi/raw bar — the seared sablefish oshi is a favourite — then savour a small plate of plump diver scallops with a creamy, vanillascented cauliflower purée, and share the whole branzino, the delicate grilled fish filleted and artfully presented in a French copper gratin dish. With the attentive and professional service, you’ll feel pampered to the max.

Runners-up

Cafe Brio

Ugly Duckling Dining & Provisions

Best Pastry Chef

KIMBERLEY VY, Inn at Laurel Point

680 Montreal Street | $$-$$$ aurarestaurant.ca | Reservations suggested

It’s tempting to call Kimberley Vy Victoria’s “Dessert Diva,” but while her amazing skills make her a leader among local pastry pros, she’s no diva. Vy is warm, generous and even a little shy — letting her fine pastry work, with all of its layers of flavour and precise technique, speak for itself. And if you’ve ever had the pleasure of dining at Aura Waterfront Restaurant + Patio at the Inn at Laurel Point, or enjoying the property’s new Duo Café Bakery, you’ve heard her, loud and clear. Vy is a master of subtle and surprising flavour combinations, often using Asian ingredients such as yuzu, calamansi or tea alongside Valrhona chocolate, gooey dulce de leche and lavender from the hotel gardens. Every dessert is a sculptural masterpiece, with clean lines and precision piping — creations that look too beautiful to eat. But eat you must, because it’s those creamy, crunchy contrasts, exquisite flavours and subtle surprises that make Vy’s desserts a memorable part of every meal.

Runners-up

Haley Landa and Curtis Helm of GoodSide Pastry House Dominique Laurencelle, Marilena Cafe & Raw Bar

At Marilena, celebrate with fine dishes like the seared diver scallops topped with spiced grapefruit.

JOHN GAUCHER

Kimberley Vy adds the finishing touch to her meticulous pastry work.

Best Patio

Aura Waterfront Restaurant + Patio, Inn at Laurel Point

680 Montreal Street | $$-$$$ aurarestaurant.ca | Reservations suggested

Victoria’s patio culture is growing and one of the nicest spots to dine al fresco is the seaside patio at Aura, at the Inn at Laurel Point.

Set on a prominent point in Victoria’s harbour, it’s a perfect spot to enjoy a classic city view, with cute harbour ferries darting across the water to Fisherman’s Wharf, float planes landing and ferries arriving from points south.

Stay all day to explore all of the fine food from the Aura culinary team, whether a sunny breakfast or the hotel’s impressive, Asian-inspired afternoon tea, complete with savouries and sweets from pastry chef Kimberley Vy. Enjoy the daily happy-hour cocktail flights and snacks, or admire the sunset and city lights over a tasting menu dinner from restaurant chef Gabe Fayerman-Hansen. Go dine outside!

Runners-up

CRAFT Beer Market Victoria Harbour

Glo Restaurant + Lounge

Best Brunch

HOUSE OF BOATENG

#105-2854 Peatt Road, Langford | $$ houseofboateng.ca | Reservations available for groups of eight+

Castro Boateng is a master chef so there’s always something creative and delicious on the menu at House of Boateng in Langford. A Toronto native with Ghanaian roots, Boateng brings an international vibe to his daily brunch menu, along with a range of his own sauces and marinades, meals-to-go and long-table dinners from his HOB Fine Foods catering kitchen down the street. The breakfast sandwich at HOB is a halloumi BLT with fried egg and harissa aioli and the French toast starts with his own banana bread. Or try one of his signature brunch dishes — the African bowl with jollof rice topped with chicken sausage, scrambled eggs and smoky shrimp aioli, or the huevos rancheros with crispy tortilla, jerk chicken and Ghanaian beans. This is a beautiful brunch with vegetarian options — and sparkling mimosas, of course!

Runners-up

John’s Place

The Ruby

At House of Boateng, the huevos rancheros come stacked with flavour.

Best Plant-Based

(Vegan, Vegetarian and Flexitarian)

NOURISH KITCHEN & CAFE

225 Quebec Street | $$-$$$ nourishkitchen.ca | Reservations for parties of five+

Nourish has long been a city staple for the vegan and vegetableforward crowd, with creative food that features locally sourced ingredients and covers all of the healthy vegetarian and omnivore bases. Set in a historic home in James Bay, it’s a comfortable space and, since new chef/owner Maxime Durand began his regular dinner service last year, there’s even more to love. Brunch still includes nourishing fare: mugs of collagen-rich bone broth, gluten-free Sleeping Beauty pancakes, seedy bread crackers with vegan cashew cheese. And Durand’s evening menu ranges from roasted squash and beets with tahini and dukkah to squash risotto with carrots and pumpkin seeds to roasted pork coppa with sauerkraut and bacon vinaigrette, all featuring local and seasonal ingredients. This is a restaurant that puts vegetables front and centre.

Runners-up

be love end dive

At Nourish, grain bowls are bountiful with millet, quinoa and brown rice, pickles, veg and either poached eggs or tempeh.

Best Happy Hour

BLOCK KITCHEN + BAR

#101-538 Yates Street | $$ blockvictoria.ca | Reservations optional

Block Kitchen + Bar also gets the nod for Best Happy Hour, the 3 to 5 p.m. daily slot when you can get discounted menu items from their greatest hits. Think lettuce wraps with crispy cubes of pork belly or karaage chicken skewers with spicy mayo. Get their Block Negroni or Sake-tini tap cocktails at a discounted happy hour price of $12, plus $4 to $6 pints of local craft beer. They also serve a mean non-alc Caesar (the drink) with global flair, with honey gochujangspiced Clamato and togarashi rim. Block attracts a mixed crowd, says co-owner/manager Andy Burke, who describes his downtown demographic as “27 to 72. No ageism here,” he adds. “Happy hour is super affordable and a chance to try the menu. It’s all sorts of people and it’s wonderful.”

Runners-up

Glo Restaurant + Lounge

The Courtney Room

Best European

BRASSERIE L’ECOLE

1715 Government Street | $$-$$$ lecole.ca | No reservations; walk-ins only

Set in a historic building on the edge of Chinatown (close to the iconic Victoria Chinese Public School), Brasserie l’Ecole might have been plucked from the streets of Paris, a cozy French bistro with a classic menu and wine list to match.

Owner and sommelier Marc Morrison opened Brasserie more than 20 years ago and it’s still the place for locals to gather for bowls of cheesy French onion soup, endive salads topped with smoky lardons, duck confit, steak frites and big rib-eye steaks to share. The beverages include wellchosen and affordable French wines and a range of Belgian beers, plus classic French cocktails. They resolutely eschew reservations, so you’ll have to line up before their 5:30 p.m. opening to snag a table, but our judges concur: It’s worth the wait.

Runners-up

Cafe Brio

Zambri’s

Best East Asian

JIANGYUN NOODLE HOUSE

830 Fort Street | $$ jiangyunnoodlevictoria.com

No reservations; walk-ins only

Our judges have been hanging out at JiangYun Noodle House, one of the newest Asian eateries in town. Set in a small storefront on Fort Street where a charcuterie shop once stood, it’s the kind of sole proprietor spot this city is famous for, with just one specialty — big bowls of Chinese- and Taiwanese-style noodles.

JiangYun’s noodles come with their own “signature” sauces and broths, in variations like roast chicken, grilled pork, slow-cooked beef or vegetarian toppings. Made from scratch — some wheat noodles even pulled by hand — these noodle bowls make for a simple, slurpable and filling meal. The beef noodle bowl, with tender braised beef in a slow-simmered, rich and aromatically spiced beef broth, is a must-try. But remember, this is a small owner/operator kitchen — don’t all go at once!

Runners-up

HongKong West

Nubo Japanese Tapas

Brasserie

L’Ecole leans into old-school favourites like cheesy French onion soup and Belgian beer.

The braised beef noodle bowl at JiangYun Noodle House is a must-try.

Best Latin

MAIIZ NIXTAMAL

540 Fisgard Street | $-$$ maiiz.ca | No reservations; walk-ins only

Chef Israel Alvarez Molina opened his MAiiZ Nixtamal café in Chinatown just four years ago and has been wowing locals with his authentic Mexican street food ever since. What began as a passion project — to revive the traditional nixtamalization process and create authentic Mexican corn tortillas — has made MAiiZ a household name. He’s slowly expanded from a takeout counter and a couple of tables to 30-plus seats (both indoors and on a new sidewalk patio). And now you can find his tasty corn tortillas on restaurant menus, in independent food shops and major supermarkets all over the city. Working with organic B.C. corn, he’s recreating a traditional Mexican product with local provenance. Stop in for lunch or takeout tacos, tamales and quesadillas with beef barbacoa, chicken tinga, huitlacoche (fungus) or even grasshoppers. This is the real deal!

Runners-up

Benjo’s Tacos Bodega

Best South or Southeast Asian

CAFE MALABAR

#6-1701 Douglas Street | $-$$ @cafemalabar.ca on Instagram No reservations; walk-ins only

Cafe Malabar chefs/co-owners Kiran Kolathodan and Karma Tenpa are both from southern India, but their paths crossed by happy coincidence while working together at a local hotel. Each has an impressive resumé and they combined their talents to open Cafe Malabar, a new eatery set in the Victoria Public Market. Cooking out of the Coho Commissary kitchen and serving meals in the market or for delivery, the young chefs have found a following for their creative Keralan cuisine. Start with their ginger mint tea and try the regional specialties including crisp vegetable cutlets, breakfast dosas and idli, black chickpea and fish curries, flaky parotta bread, steamed coconut puttu or tender lamb shank biryani. They’ve just expanded the menu, with plans to open a larger location to showcase the cuisine of Kerala soon.

Runners-up

Ate *A Restaurant Green Leaf Vietnamese Bistro

A trio of tacos on housemade tortillas at MAiiZ Nixtamal.

Chef Kiran Kolathodan brings flavours from Kerala to the Victoria Public Market.

Best Middle Eastern or North African

SYRIANA

#2-1258 Esquimalt Road | $-$$ syrianacatering.ca | No reservations; walk-ins only

At Syriana, Safaa Naeman is in pay-it-forward mode, sending peace and gratitude out to her adopted home, and you can taste it in every bite of her homestyle Syrian food. A refugee from the ongoing civil war, Naeman opened the sunny little café in Esquimalt in 2023. It’s the first location for her burgeoning catering and restaurant business, itself an offshoot of what started as a simple sideline, selling beautiful baklava and pastries at farmers’ markets. Now she has a team of Syrian women in the kitchen, creating a range of tasty Middle Eastern foods — whether pillowy hand pies (fatayer), silky hummus, spicy yalange (dolmades) and handmade kibbeh for a mezze meal, or juicy skewers of beef kebab, grilled chicken or falafel served with seasoned rice. This is comfort food at its finest.

Runners-up

Superbaba

Yalla Middle Eastern Street Eats

Best West Coast Contemporary

WILD MOUNTAIN FOOD & DRINK

1831 Maple Avenue South, Sooke | $$-$$$ wildmountaindinners.com | Reservations strongly suggested

Chef Oliver Kienast and sommelier Brooke Fader are champions of our local food shed and everything on the plate at their Sooke restaurant tells that seasonal story. With a massive wood-burning oven turning out perfect pizzas and fire-roasted vegetables and meats, Kienast lets the Island ingredients shine. Start with their own housemade charcuterie — creamy duck liver mousse, pork-and-fig terrine, air-dried bresaola — with bulk kelp crackers or polenta fries. Try the Cowichan beef tartare, fire-roasted Metchosin pork chop or handmade pappardelle with oyster mushrooms. Finish with single-origin Peruvian chocolate pudding, served in a Mason jar and paired with a housemade digestif. Kienast and Fader are food leaders and collaborators, championing B.C. wines and spirits, Slow Food and Slow Fish, Island farmers and artisans, and reflecting the Island food community with style.

Runners-up

Bray’s West Coast Tapas + Wine Bar Fathom

A bounty of savoury dishes from Syriana, including hand pies, flatbreads, falafel, hummus and, in the centre, their famous pistachio-and-honey-filled baklava.

Wild Mountain’s hyperlocal menu features seasonal dishes like these spot shrimp with nixtamal corn, peas, radish and sweet cicely.

Best Sommelier and/or Wine Program

THE COURTNEY ROOM

The Magnolia Hotel, 619 Courtney Street | $$-$$$ thecourtneyroom.com | Reservations strongly suggested

This is the second year in a row that The Courtney Room has won for its exceptional wine program. Wine director and skilled sommelier Colin Davidson has trained TCR’s service team well, so you can always expect a knowledgeable recommendation or wine-pairing suggestion. Davidson is a champion of small, family-run wineries, and his carefully curated wine list includes an ever-changing selection of B.C. and international wines, including rare finds you won’t see elsewhere, all beautifully displayed in a glass-fronted wine room. He is also excited to share his passion for wine by bringing in top-flight producers and working with chef Brian Tesolin to craft exciting winemakers’ dinners. We’re not the only ones to recognize TCR’s wine excellence — it recently became the first Vancouver Island restaurant ever to win the prestigious platinum award at the Vancouver International Wine Festival.

Runners-up

Marilena Cafe & Raw Bar

Tourist Wine Bar

Best Cocktail Bar or Lounge

HUMBOLDT BAR

722 Humboldt Street | $$-$$$ humboldtbar.com | No reservations; walk-ins only

Humboldt Bar offers an “immersive cocktail experience” designed by long-time city mixologist and bar manager Brant Porter. It’s a journey into the world of historic polymath and explorer Alexander von Humboldt, through a cool cocktail menu that details his life with stories and vintage botanical prints. Imagine the discoveries of this famed 19th-century German naturalist and his worldly adventures while sipping cocktails called Lost in The Woods or Concentrated Sunbeams — and contemplate the many things named for him, from the Humboldt Current and Humboldt Squid to the downtown Victoria street where you’ll find this elegant and intimate bar. One of our judges loves the Republic of Letters, made with Irish whiskey, Armagnac, amber vermouth, Bénédictine, bitters and candle wax, a dark and complex cocktail that conjures Humboldt’s era of exploration in every sip.

Runners-up

Citrus & Cane

Clive’s Classic Lounge

At Humboldt Bar, bartender Kate Chernoff sends sparks flying as she sprinkles cinnamon over the rum-based Cotopaxi cocktail.

Wine director Colin Davidson searches for treasure in The Courtney Room's glassed-in wine cellar.

Outstanding Service

MARILENA CAFE & RAW BAR

1525 Douglas Street | $$$ marilenacafe.com | Reservations strongly suggested

Several members of our judging team pointed to the attention to detail offered by the large service team at Marilena. Led by restaurant director Aaron Matsuzaki, a veteran from the Toptable Group in Vancouver, the service is smart, seamless and professional to a fault. From the greeting at the front desk to the knowledgeable wait staff and wine stewards, personable bartenders and sushi chefs, each zone of the restaurant has its own manager, with service staff moving from the pass in the open kitchen into the various dining areas in a smooth, co-ordinated dance. One of our judging team observed the bartender “not only recognized a business traveller that had sat at his bar a month prior, but then remembered his drink, followed by recommendations on similar options to try.” Now that’s outstanding service.

Runners-up

Cafe Brio

Nowhere *A Restaurant

Producer of the Year

FINEST AT SEA QUALITY SEAFOOD

27 Erie Street | finestatsea.com

If you’ve ever ordered the fish at almost any restaurant in Victoria, it likely arrived in the kitchen from Finest at Sea.

Owner Bob Fraumeni opened his seafood wholesaling business in 1984, focusing on wild, sustainable West Coast products. Once a fisherman himself, Fraumeni proudly points to the provenance of the fish he sells, whether the fresh salmon, halibut and crab from the retail fish counter, the value-added Finest at Sea products (such as cold-smoked tuna loins or artisan canned fish), and arguably the finest fish and chips in town, served from their own food truck parked outside the converted Victorian house near Fisherman’s Wharf.

FAS buys from local fishers and has eight of its own boats — including the FV Ocean Pearl, the largest vessel in the B.C. fishing fleet — plying West Coast waters for halibut in Haida Gwaii and tuna off the coast of Vancouver Island. Their fish shop is the place for fresh and frozen seafood, smoked fish and housemade seacuterie, seafood risotto and chowder.

Fraumeni is an industry leader, supporting local chefs, fishers and community causes, including his popular annual sale of donated herring that raises money for kids with cancer.

Since setting up shop in Victoria 40 years ago, FAS has expanded to serve customers in Vancouver and beyond. It’s always all hands on deck at this super seafood supplier, where local community comes first.

Finest At Sea’s Rich McBride ensures that local restaurants have fresh, sustainably harvested seafood.

At Marilena, restaurant director Aaron Matsuzaki and his team have elevated the level of service for the whole city.

Tastemaker(s) of the Year

GREG HAYS AND SILVIA MARCOLINI, CAFE BRIO

Cafe Brio founders Greg Hays and Silvia Marcolini retired this year after building some of the city’s most beloved and innovative restaurants, literally from the ground up.

The industry-leading couple started with The Herald Street Caffe in the 1980s, then launched the Oak Bay Marina restaurant and built Cafe Brio, their own distinctive, Italianate restaurant, still a popular place to dine on Fort Street. Hays and Marcolini sold Cafe Brio this year, passing the restaurant to chef Sam Harris and barman Vincent Vanderheide, a new generation of top industry experts who are keeping their legacy of creative fine dining and hospitality alive.

Enjoying the downtime of retirement after spending more than 50 years in the restaurant business, Hays says his mantra of “treating people that come to our restaurant like they are friends coming to our house for dinner” was what always set their hospitality apart. Plus, he says, they hired top chefs and wait staff, focused on local seasonal ingredients and stayed passionate about the industry through years of both stresses and successes.

“The No. 1 priority is your staff,” adds Marcolini.

“We worked like a family, and if you bring a family commitment to what you’re doing, and stand by each other, you’ll do well.”

“We worked like a family, and if you bring a family commitment to what you’re doing, and stand by each other, you’ll do well.”

While Hays was always at the front door at Cafe Brio to greet and engage customers with his warm and quirky humour, Marcolini worked alongside their long-time service team, building a regular clientele, many of whom became close friends.

“We always spent more time there than we did here at home,” says Marcolini. “I miss my customers the most.”

Inducted into the B.C. Restaurant Hall of Fame in 2014, the couple made Cafe Brio a popular dining spot for nearly three decades — and their legacy continues to evolve and delight discriminating diners.

For more than 50 years in the restaurant business, Greg Hays treated guests like friends coming over for dinner.

About the Judging

Every restaurant awards process is slightly different; here is how the YAM Best Restaurant Awards are decided.

AWARDS FACILITATOR

Joanne Sasvari

Joanne Sasvari is the editor of YAM magazine and a longtime food, drink and travel writer. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Virtuoso The Magazine, HelloBC.com and Vancouver Sun, and she is the editor of the drinks publications Vitis and The Alchemist. She is also the author of several cookbooks, including the IACP finalist Wickaninnish Cookbook, bestselling Island Eats and recently published Okanagan Eats (Figure 1 Publishing).

HEAD JUDGE

Cinda Chavich

YAM’s food writer Cinda Chavich is an award-winning freelance journalist and author whose work has appeared in Cooking Light, Wine Spectator, the Globe and Mail, Canadian Living and Maclean’s. She produces the TasteReport.com website and is the author of six cookbooks including the 2016 IACP finalist The Waste Not, Want Not Cookbook (TouchWood Editions).

First and foremost, the awards are proudly independent. The YAM Best Restaurant Awards are open to establishments in Greater Victoria, from Sooke to Swartz Bay. Restaurateurs do not pay for the awards, nor do they apply to enter, nor are they informed that they are under consideration for an award. In addition, the judges may not vote for any restaurant with which they have a personal or professional affiliation. Any conflicts of interest are promptly disqualified.

The judges come from different areas of the food community. Some are food writers and bloggers; others work as chefs or sommeliers or in other aspects of the hospitality industry.

In each of the 21 categories, they are asked to nominate their top three candidates. We crunch the numbers in house, with input from our head judge, YAM’s food writer Cinda Chavich. Sometimes there is a clear winner. Sometimes every judge has a completely different opinion. In that case, we go back for a second round of voting. Or a third, or fourth, if we need to.

We know that winning a YAM Best Restaurant Award can make a world of difference to a small, independent business, so we take the process very seriously. And we are very grateful to our judges for their time and their thoughtful contributions.

Thank you to our judges

Janine Boom

Janine Boom is a local foodie, business owner and the creator of the Instagram account @besteatsvictoria. She has lived in Victoria most of her life, and she loves exploring the local food scene in search of the best eats in town.

Robert Cassels

Chef Robert Cassels grew up cooking in his godparents’ Victoria restaurant and held his first chef position by the age of 19. After staging in Paris and Chicago, he opened the Frenchinspired, multi-award-winning Saveur, YAM’s Restaurant of the Year (2019) and in 2023, was named YAM’s Chef of the Year. A member of the BC Restaurant Hall of Fame, Chef Cassels is working on his next project.

Don Genova

Don Genova is an award-winning freelance writer and broadcaster specializing in food and travel. He has written for the Globe and Mail, National Post, enRoute and many other publications. He is also a cooking instructor and the author of Food Artisans of Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands, and is currently working on a second edition.

Dallas Harwood

Dallas Harwood is a co-founder and the current operator of @VicFoodGuys. He has been helping shine a light on people doing awesome things with food for the last seven years in and around Victoria.

Jenny Leung

Jenny Leung is an avid food enthusiast who enjoys sharing her culinary passion on Instagram as @i_am_miss_jen. Alongside managing her boutique marketing agency that specializes in the restaurant industry, she also contributes to Edible Vancouver Island magazine. In her downtime, she enjoys sipping on London Fogs and exploring the local food scene.

Madone Pelan

Madone Pelan is the general manager of the Oak Bay Beach Hotel and part owner of the Whole Beast Artisan Salumeria. She also serves on the BC Hotel Association’s board of directors, Destination Greater Victoria’s board of directors and is the chair of the District of Oak Bay’s tourism committee.

Bonnie Todd

Since 2012, Bonnie Todd has been the founder and owner of Off The Eaten Track Tours, a foodie walking tour company that showcases her passion for the culinary culture of Victoria and Vancouver Island. She also writes for various local publications including Edible Vancouver Island and the MicCHEK podcast.

THE COURTNEY ROOM

Modern Pacific Northwest cuisine

Located just two blocks from the Inner Harbour, The Courtney Room has become a local favourite, winning many accolades since opening its doors in 2018, from enRoute magazine’s Best New Restaurants in Canada, to recent cocktail and wine program awards.

Drawing inspiration from classic cooking techniques with a focus on Pacific Northwest cuisine, The Courtney Room offers the best ingredients from the land and sea. With experience spanning the country from highly respected culinary meccas, Executive Chef Brian Tesolin pays respect to the Island’s terroir through his seasonally cultivated menu. Chef Tesolin is passionate about working with bright flavours and elements that make even the simplest dishes memorable.

Menus feature in-house dry-aged natural beef, sustainable seafood and fresh produce from local farm partners. The food is ingredient-driven and built on a foundation of classic European techniques. The dishes celebrate the bounty of the Pacific Northwest and showcase local products.

Ever changing. Always evolving.

The wine list is diverse, with more than 300 labels, and recently garnered a prestigious Platinum Award for Wine Program Excellence at Vancouver’s International Wine Festival, the first and only restaurant on Vancouver Island to do so.

Wine Program Director Colin Davidson explains: “We approach our wine selection with a sense of adventure, drawn to quality wines from all over the world that have a story to tell.”

The award-winning bar program focuses on the ebbs and flows of West Coast offerings. The cocktail menu has strong roots in classic cocktails, while pushing the boundaries to explore the region by showcasing fresh local ingredients, such as locally foraged mushrooms, seaweed and rosehips. Take a seat at the bar for truly memorable cocktail journey.

Gather at the bar for fresh shucked oysters, unwind with friends over sharing plates and cocktails or savour an elegant dinner with thoughtfully curated wines.

Executive Chef Brian Tesolin

FATHOM

Locally sourced, seasonally inspired

FFathom offers a reimagined culinary journey, nestled in the heart of the city. Located within the iconic Hotel Grand Pacific, Fathom blends West Coast inspiration with a visionary approach to dining. With a beautifully designed space and meticulously curated menus, we invite guests to explore the depths of flavour in an upscale setting. Our wine list is thoughtfully curated by Sommelier Brad Royale to complement Fathom’s locally sourced and seasonal food offerings, ensuring an unforgettable dining experience for locals and tourists alike.

athom offers a reimagined culinary journey, nestled in the heart of the city. Located within the iconic Hotel Grand Pacific, Fathom blends West Coast inspiration with a visionary approach to dining. With a beautifully designed space and meticulously curated menus, we invite guests to explore the depths of flavour in an upscale setting. Our wine list is thoughtfully curated by Sommelier Brad Royale to complement Fathom’s locally sourced and seasonal food offerings, ensuring an unforgettable dining experience for locals and tourists alike.

Our culinary narrative at Fathom intertwines with the terroir of Vancouver Island, particularly the Cowichan Valley, where vineyards thrive along the southeast coastline. Shielded by a gentle rain veil, this region boasts abundant sunshine and

mild summers. The resulting wines are delicate and floral with a very approachable demeanour. Producers such as Blue Grouse and Averill Creek have garnered acclaim for their exquisite Pinot Noirs. This easygoing climate extends to the surrounding Gulf Islands where producers like Sea Star on Pender Island are highly sought after for their rare aromatic whites.

The wines of British Columbia have seen immense growth over the past decade in terms of quality and precision of style. As the global wine market veered into higher acid wines with more delicate profiles, British Columbia’s stash of Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir saw unprecedented acclaim — nowhere more so than on Vancouver Island and the surrounding satellite islands where warming temperatures and moderate climate

have produced some of the best wines in its history. Yet, amid this triumph, a combination of destructive forest fires and frosts in the Okanagan and Similkameen valleys have dealt devastating blows to vineyards, underscoring the urgency of supporting our local wine industry.

To complement our locally sourced fare we curate a selection of wines at Fathom that are as rare as they are delightful. Many of these wines remain exclusive to the province, offering our guests a unique opportunity to indulge in the essence of Vancouver Island. As stewards of both hospitality and regional identity, we extend an invitation to savour the essence of Vancouver Island in every sip, a journey that celebrates the artistry of local winemaking and the richness of our shared landscape.

Brad Royale, Sommelier

SPINNAKERS GASTRO BREWPUB & GUESTHOUSES

Victoria’s gathering place

Commanding stunning views of the Inner Harbour, Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub & Guesthouses are quintessential Victoria — the place where locals proudly bring out-of-town friends, where couples court, friendships are formed and old acquaintances are renewed.

Canada’s oldest brewpub, a pioneer of the North American craft brewing renaissance, Spinnakers added cider making in 2015, craft distilling in 2019, sparkling natural mineral waters and craft sodas in 2021, Even Keels, which are 0% ABV non-alcoholic craft cocktails, and Spinnakers’ Shifts, unique natural mineral water-based adaptogen beverages, in 2024.

Spinnakers’ brewers, cider makers, distillers and non-alcoholic beverage producers craft benchmarks and seasonal specialties using locally sourced natural mineral waters, locally grown and malted grains, B.C.-grown fruits and time-honoured techniques. No matter what your tipple, Spinnakers is the choice for the finer sips in life. Ardent support of local agriculture

brings the freshest seasonal fare to your table. All food preparation is done on the premises, from beer-based artisan sourdough breads to house-smoked poultry, meats and wild seafood, and our vodka cured wild Pacific Sockeye Salmon. Even the amazing chocolates and truffles from our in-house chocolatier are based on seasonal offerings from the brewery, cidery and distillery and are all available at Provisions on your way in or out.

Tucked away close by are the Guesthouses, a faithfully restored 1884 home providing private elegant accommodation in five rooms, each with luxurious queen beds, fireplaces and deluxe ensuite bathrooms with jetted soaker tubs or a steamer spa shower. The Garden Suites have scenic outdoor patios, sumptuous queen beds and jetted baths or soaker tubs, some with full kitchens.

Experience Spinnakers at every level, be it the luxury Guesthouses or Gastro Brewpub with oceanfront patios, multi-tiered restaurant and a comfortable upper-level tap room.

Savour the wonderful offerings of Provisions’ in-house specialty deli with samplings of brick oven-baked breads, pastries, cookies, chocolates, vinegars and an array of exclusively Spinnakerspackaged beers, ciders, spirits, sparkling natural mineral waters, mineral waterbased craft sodas and mineral waterbased Even Keels and Shifts.

308 Catherine Street, Victoria Reservations: 250 386-2739 spinnakers.com

MARILENA CAFE & RAW BAR

A homecoming for Executive Chef Kristian Eligh

The name Marilena honours the late Elisa Marilena Carlotto, who was the heart of her household and brought people together through food.

Marilena is Toptable Group’s first restaurant in Victoria and a homecoming for Executive Chef Kristian Eligh, who returns after having spent the last 18 years at some of the top restaurants in Vancouver, including Nightingale and Hawksworth. Most recently, Marilena has been awarded No. 1 Best New Restaurant and No. 27 on Canada’s 100 Best List.

Chef Eligh has carefully selected local vendors that contribute to an Islandinfluenced menu authentic to the West Coast. The Parker House roll is served warm, with oil and churned butter with Vancouver Island kelp salt. Burrata salad features a juxtaposition of premium imported Italian burrata cheese and Dutch white asparagus paired with local British Columbia green asparagus, lemon truffle vinaigrette and brioche. Albacore tuna is caught off the coast of Tofino and brought in fresh weekly for the gomae, paired with sesame and flowering broccoli.

Other popular items from the menu are the seafood tower, of which half of the ingredients are sourced from the Island. Raw bar top picks are the Aburi Sockeye

Salmon Oshi, Yellowfin Tuna Tartare and Crispy Marilena Lobster Tacos. A smallplate favourite is the Grilled Octopus accompanied by ’nduja sofrito and braised gigante beans. Popular main dishes include Miso Glazed Sablefish with warm sushi rice, yu choy, Tokyo turnip and dashi, as well as the Crispy Skin Striped Bass and local Halibut.

The spirits reflect flavours synonymous with the Island, including gins from craft distilleries — Ampersand, Sheringham and Phillips Fermentorium. The wine list is expansive, boasting 5,000 bottles and 800 labels to choose from.

The atmosphere is inviting, and the open concept makes it timeless. The open kitchen surrounded by marble waterfall countertops gives guests a first-hand look into what we believe is the soul of our restaurant. Seating is offered at the chef’s table at the kitchen counter, raw bar, bar, as well as white tablecloth dining. It also boasts an outdoor patio for an effortless indoor-outdoor ambiance.

We take pride in our hospitality and cater to everyone individually, anticipating every need and taking care of every detail. We take the time to get to know our guests and make them part of the Marilena family.

Executive Chef Kristian Eligh

900° BISTRO & 900° WOOD-FIRED PIZZERIA

Authentic wood-fired food and old-world hospitality

900° BISTRO IN SIDNEY

900° BiSTRO in Sidney is wood-fired pizza and pasta heaven for fans of authentic Italian food. “There is so much you can do in a wood-fired oven besides pizza,” says Chef Alessandro. “At 900° BiSTRO, our menu is designed entirely around our wood-fired oven. We are cooking everything from pizzas to pastas to steaks in there. The lasagna is my nonna’s secret recipe,” he says proudly.

The extensive menu is complemented by a curated wine list of award-winning wines from all over the globe, including a great selection of value-priced wines by the glass. 900° BiSTRO creates a completely immersive dining experience, surrounded by classic bistro décor and Old World ambience. With only 12 interior tables plus a new all-season patio, dinner reservations are a must. Book your table now at 900degrees.ca.

900° WOOD-FIRED

PIZZERIA IN LANGFORD

900° Wood-Fired Pizzeria in Langford is celebrating its 10th anniversary. Their success has won them numerous awards for outstanding quality, including best thin-crust pizza on Vancouver Island by CTV News, Best Takeout by Eat Magazine, and named as one of the best restaurants in Canada by the prestigious “Where to Eat in Canada” guide.

900° Pizzeria is about as artisan as it gets, mixing organic flours in-house to make their dough, whole organic tomatoes to make their sauce, freshly made and hand-rolled fior di latte mozzarella cheese, organic vegetables and the highest-quality, non-GMO artisan meats to top their pizzas. The passion for top-quality ingredients and artisan methods can truly be tasted in every bite at 900°.

Each pizza completes its journey inside a blazing-hot wood-fired oven, hand-tended by skilled artisan master pizzaiolos, where fresh ingredients meld into a golden, charr-blistered masterpiece. The experience is completed with other Italian classics, such as caesar salad, Tuscan wood-fired vegetables and Neapolitan meatballs. And don’t forget dessert! 900° has a great selection, including housemade tiramisu and tempting Italian gelato. At 900° Pizzeria, there truly is something for everyone — even a full glutenfree menu with over 40 gluten-free options to choose from, including gluten-free wood-fired pizzas, of course!

Open Tues–Sat, 11:00 a.m.–8 p.m. 2360 Beacon Avenue, Sidney 778-426-7059 | 900degrees.ca

Open 7 days a week, 11:30 a.m.–8 p.m. 2401-B Millstream Road, Langford 250-590-4493 | 900degrees.ca

TREETOP TAPAS & GRILL

at the grotto spa

Journey through the flavours of the Pacific Northwest

The Treetop Tapas & Grill at the Grotto Spa is home to a culinary experience unlike any other in Canada. Dine comfortably in your robe and sandals overlooking the surrounding forest as you indulge in our curated Chef’s Tasting Menu, carefully designed to take you on a seamless journey through the diverse flavours of the Pacific Northwest. Once you’ve completed the Chef’s Tasting Menu, you are invited to reorder your favourite dishes for an endless dining adventure that transcends the ordinary and leaves an indelible mark on your palate.

Tigh-Na-Mara Seaside Spa Resort & Conference Centre 1155 Resort Drive, Parksville | 250-248-1838 | grottospa.com

AURA

Share plates with a view

Open for breakfast, lunch, happy hour and dinner, Aura offers creative shareplates sure to spark conversation. Though their menu is internationally inspired, items are made using locally sourced ingredients — some as local as their own kitchen garden.

Aura boasts the only restaurant in Victoria with an open-air patio directly overlooking Victoria’s Inner Harbour. Watch boats sail past and seaplanes fade into the distance as you enjoy daily happy hour features on local draught beer, cocktails made using some of B.C.’s best spirits and wine from their curated wine list.

FOOD + DRINK PROFILE

740 Burdett Avenue (18th floor of the Chateau Victoria) 250-382-9258 | vista18.com

VISTA 18

Authentic + local + elevated

Vista 18 is Victoria’s only rooftop restaurant providing a breathtaking view of the bustling Inner Harbour, Juan de Fuca Strait and the Olympic Mountains. Our dining room channels a modern, upscale casual esthetic which goes hand-in-hand with our polished yet approachable service.

Vista’s food program is reflective of West Coast cuisine and Chef Mike Dunlop’s creative energy. Chef Dunlop is locally born and raised, and has been a part of Vista 18 for more than 25 years. When dining with us, you can come to expect fresh West Coast vibrancy paired with international flavours influenced by the many cultures on our coast.

Originally hailing from Victoria, talented Chef Joshua Chilton has honed his craft through a rich tapestry of experiences, notably training in classic French cuisine at Brasserie L’Ecole and Globe Kitchen in Montreal. His culinary journey spans a decade of international exploration, with stints at Club Med Resorts across Mexico, China, France, Japan and the Caribbean. At Clive’s, Chef Joshua’s creations are a testament to simplicity, elegance and accessibility, seamlessly complementing the establishment’s beverage program. He and the front-of-house team have collaborated to bring about the acclaimed Supper Clubs, while his menu caters adeptly to both casual grazers and discerning diners alike.

THE UNION CLUB

Many rewards of belonging

Located in an elegant, century-old building downtown, the Union Club offers a first-class private venue for dining, business, recreation and entertainment. Members enjoy access to a vibrant social scene, including live music, family and themed events, and both casual and fine dining. In the state-of-the-art kitchen, seasonally changing menus are created by Chef Alexander Amos that emphasize fresh, locally sourced ingredients and pair perfectly with the extensive selection of spirits and wines as well as local breweries on tap. Enjoy your meal indoors or on the rooftop terrace with breathtaking views of the Inner Harbour. The Union Club is the perfect place to socialize, meet new people and enjoy exceptional experiences.

VICTORIA PUBLIC MARKET

The best of Victoria in one spot

Located in The Hudson building, the Victoria Public Market is a one-stop indoor shopping destination. With a range of permanent vendors, the Market offers an eclectic mix of goods, including everything from pies and roast meat sandwiches to artisanal pasta and sushi, kitchenware and clothing. The Market houses day vendors, too, including farmers, chefs and artisans. Food entrepreneurs can develop their businesses and hone their skills in the Market’s community kitchen. With lots of public seating, you can relax, enjoy a coffee or meal, get together with friends and family, connect with colleagues or browse the web using the Market’s free Wi-Fi.

805 Gordon Street, Victoria | 250-384-1151 unionclub.com | membership@unionclub.com

Chef Alexander Amos, in his third successful year as Executive Chef.

FOOD + DRINK PROFILE

Join eight of Victoria’s top chefs for an elevated culinary competition and fundraising gala in support of Our Place.

A decadent night out with heart, all funds raised will support the first long-term women's addiction recovery program on Vancouver Island.

A decadent night out with heart, all funds raised will support the first long-term women's

Food + Drink

Tomato Time

There’s a lot to love about July here on the South Island — the days are long, warm and sunny; the mood delightfully chill — but the best thing of all is the tomatoes, fresh from the farm or from your own vegetable patch. For a few short weeks, they are at the peak of ripeness — sweet, juicy, fragrant and absolutely bursting with flavour. And when tomatoes are this good, we need to do very little with them. Serve sliced beefsteaks with mayo, bacon and lettuce on a brioche bun. Toss halved cherry tomatoes with hot pasta, shredded basil, chopped garlic and a glug of good olive oil. Spoon the grated flesh of Romas over grilled bread for a Spanish-style pan con tomate. Serve a salad of colourful heirlooms topped with creamy ricotta or burrata and a shower of fresh herbs. Or just enjoy tomatoes fresh off the vine with nothing more than a sprinkle of salt. Now that’s a simply perfect taste of summer.

By Cinda Chavich

SMALL BUT MIGHTY

Got a craving? We’ve got you.

Sometimes you’re just after that one perfect bite, but you need to know where to go. Victoria has a number of small restaurants, takeout spots, bakeries and butchers where the owners zero in on something specific, a house specialty they do well. So, when in the city, go for the:

Chicken

There’s fried chicken and then there’s Korean fried chicken, and Victoria has some great spots to try it. But there’s no place quite like Chicken 649 for that box of double-fried chicken that’s tender on the inside and shatteringly crunchy outside, marinated and fried fresh to order. Go for the original or the sweet and spicy yangnyeom; a half-and-half order lets you try both!

Croissant

You may have seen the people lining up in front of GoodSide Pastry House on Fort Street. They’re coming for the bakers’ beautiful little mousse cakes and cream puffs, but especially for the buttery croissants. Chef/owners Haley Landa and Curtis Helm rock the laminated pastries — whether classic butter croissants, sweet and savoury danishes or pain au chocolat. We especially love the almond double bake, a flaky croissant filled with almond paste.

Charcuterie

Chef Cory Pelan specializes in salumi at The Whole Beast, his own salumeria where artisan cured meats run the gamut from housemade hams and smoked duck to his delightful little jars of silky chicken liver parfait. If Italian salami is your jam, taste through

Pelan’s range of dry-cured sausage from a rotating list that includes salami di noci, spicy salami Calabrese, salami limone e finocciona and salami Parmigiano.

Fish Fry

Whether rolled into a flour tortilla, served in a sandwich or on its own with fries on the side, a perfectly deep-fried fillet of fish is something that defines West Coast cuisine, and Victoria has several excellent options. You’ll find a fried fish tacone, fish sandwich or fish and chips at the dockside Red Fish Blue Fish, but arguably the best plate of fish and chips is served direct from our favourite fish mongers. Whether it’s the food truck outside Finest at Sea or a table at Oak Bay Seafood, the fishers among us are also excellent purveyors of fried fish and fries.

Sourdough

We’re spoiled for choice when it comes to exceptional artisan bakers in Victoria, but Fry’s Bakery is a favourite for sourdough breads that are made from flour freshly milled in-house and baked in a woodfired oven. Line up with the other fans to get a big round loaf of whole wheat country bread made with organic Canadian heritage wheat and a touch of rye, or go on Saturdays for the dense, chewy cinnamon, raisin and nut rye, the best bread for morning toast slathered with butter. (It’s also delicious with cheese.)

Burgers

The burgers at Deadbeetz Burgers (both the food truck and the bricks-and-mortar eatery) start with their own beef patties (or chicken and

At Doughnut Vault, the flavours change monthly, so get ‘em while you can.

veg options), but the classic is the signature Beetrice Burger, generously topped with their housemade beet pickles. Go for the basic Beetrice, or make it a Hot Mess by adding bacon jam and a fried egg.

Doughnuts

Victoria is a bit of a mecca for doughnut/donut lovers. Whether you get a mix-andmatch box of delightfully decadent Empire Donuts delivered, grab a Yonni’s doughnut with your Discovery Coffee (handcrafted classics including vanilla glazed rings, crullers and fritters) or opt for the small-batch specialties from the Doughnut Vault (think lemon sea salt, ube crème brûlée or miso caramel black sesame), a doughnut habit can’t be far off.

Ramen

Everyone has their own favourite style of this Japanese salaryman’s nourishing noodle soup, but for a good selection of choices here in Victoria, it’s worth a trip to Ramen Arashi. This offshoot of a Banff ramen shop offers 11 different variations on the theme of chewy noodles in soup, but go for the Arashi tan tan, made with creamy tonkotsu pork bone broth and their own sesame base, plus tender braised pork belly, marinated egg, spinach and nori for a meal in a bowl.

Dosa

If you’ve ever travelled to southern India you’ll know why the dosa — a crisp yet ethereal pancake made with rice and lentil flour, which rivals any French crêpe — is a beloved street food. It’s not easy to find dosas outside the subcontinent, but there are a couple of spots in town that make them, including Dosa Paragon, which specializes in this tasty treat (it’s in their name, after all). Go for the classic masala dosa filled with spiced potatoes (aloo), or add sautéed onions, cheese, chutney or chili paneer.

Ice Cream

There are several great artisan ice cream and gelato makers in Victoria — think Parachute Ice Cream, Mosi Gelato, 49 Below Ice Cream — so an icy cone is never far away. But for a tub to take home (or a giant ice cream sandwich to share) a detour to the quirky Cold Comfort Ice Cream is in order. Whether you prefer the creamy classics made from scratch with egg custard base or the vegan coconut-based Nicecream, it’s always an adventure to see what’s in the freezer and check out the latest feature flavour.

CLAIRE PIPHER

By Joanne Sasvari

TASTES OF SUMMER

Who wants to be stuck cooking indoors when the weather outside is so beautiful? Not us. These easy, veg-forward dishes will get you out of the kitchen in a flash.

Summer’s long, hot, lazy days demand easy dishes that make the most of whatever is fresh at the farmers’ market. Think main-course salads, veggies you can pop on the BBQ, food that needs little if any cooking at all. Even better, make your grill do double duty — add an extra steak or a couple of chicken breasts while you’re cooking your mains, or pop an aubergine into the glowing coals, and you’ll have your next day’s dinner taken care of, too.

Salade Niçoise

Yes, there’s a bit of prep involved in this hearty salad from the South of France, but you can do almost all of it ahead of time and assemble as needed. Feel free to adjust the ingredients as you like, too — if you like more eggs, add a couple more to the pot; if you hate olives, leave ’em out.

Vinaigrette:

• 6 Tbsp olive oil

• 2 Tbsp white or red wine vinegar

• 1 tsp Dijon mustard

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• Optional: 1 small shallot, chopped very fine

• Optional: Finely chopped fresh basil, tarragon and/or oregano

Salad:

• 1 lb small red, yellow or fingerling potatoes

• Salt and pepper as needed

• 8 oz green beans, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces

• 4 large eggs at room temperature

• 1 head butter lettuce, torn into small pieces, or a bag of mixed salad greens from one of our local farms

• 2 tins good quality tuna packed in oil, such as the Rio Mare brand (see note)

• 1 pint container cherry tomatoes

• ¼ cup Niçoise or other dark, briny olive

• Optional: capers, anchovies, thinly sliced red onion and/or thinly sliced radishes, as desired

 Make the vinaigrette: Place the oil, vinegar, mustard and, if using, the shallots and herbs in a jar with a lid. Cover and shake well until emulsified. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (You can also whisk everything together in a smallish bowl if you’d rather.) Can be made a day ahead of time; shake (or whisk) again just before using.

 Prep the ingredients for the salad: Place potatoes in a large pot and cover with 2 inches of water. Add about 2 tsp of salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer. Cook until fork tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain.

While they are still warm, cut the potatoes into halves (or, if they are quite big, quarters), then toss them in a bowl with 2 to 4 Tbsp of vinaigrette.

 Blanch the beans: Fill a medium-sized pot halfway with water, add 1 tsp salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Plunge the green beans into the boiling water and cook until tender but still firm to the bite, about 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water to stop them cooking.

 Boil the eggs: There is much debate over whether to boil the water first then add the eggs, or to add the eggs to cold water and bring them to a boil. If you have a preferred method, follow that; ours is to bring a small pot of water to a boil and carefully submerge the room-temperature eggs into it. Reduce heat slightly and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, depending on whether you prefer your yolks jammy or well done.

Drain the pot and pour cold water over the eggs to stop them cooking. When they are cool enough to handle, peel the eggs and slice each in half.

 Assemble the salad:

This is a composed salad, not a tossed one, so keep the ingredients in separate mounds and arrange them however you think is attractive.

Spread the lettuce on a large platter or divide it between four plates.

Drain the canned tuna and mound it in the centre of the lettuce.

Place the potatoes and green beans in mounds to the side of the tuna, then arrange the tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs and olives around them. If you like, scatter capers, anchovies, thinly sliced red onion and/or radishes over the salad. Drizzle everything with the remaining vinaigrette.

Serve immediately — this salad should be served slightly warm or at room temperature. Serves 4.

Note: If you want to make this salad fancy, you can also use fresh tuna in place of the tinned. Simply sear a tuna loin or a couple of tuna steaks in a little bit of hot oil, turning it quickly to cook all sides, but leaving the centre rare. Slice it and arrange the slices to make it the centrepiece of the salad.

May 10, 2024–Jan 5, 2025

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Smoky Eggplant Dip

This lovely, creamy, pleasantly smoky dip also known as baba ganoush is a terrific way to make the most of the glowing coals after you’ve finished cooking on a charcoal grill. Note that you can make this a day ahead and keep it chilled until you’re ready to serve — the flavours will only get better as they sit.

• 2 medium Italian eggplants (about 1½ lb total)

• 1 clove garlic, minced

• 1 to 2 Tbsp lemon juice, more if desired

• 3 Tbsp tahini

• ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving

• 1 tsp ground cumin

• Kosher salt

• To garnish: chopped Italian parsley leaves, pomegranate seeds and/or black sesame seeds

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Prepare a charcoal grill for medium heat. (Coals should be covered with ash and glowing red with no black remaining — the ideal time to cook the eggplant is after you have finished grilling the rest of your food.) Poke each eggplant a couple of times with a sharp knife to let the steam escape, then place eggplant directly on the coals and cook it, turning occasionally, until skins are completely charred and flesh collapses, 15 to 20 minutes. If you don’t have a charcoal grill, you can also char the eggplants on a gas grill — set it to medium-high heat and, working carefully, cook the eggplants over the flame, turning them occasionally with a pair of tongs, 12 to 15 minutes.

Remove from heat and place eggplant on a heat-proof surface until it’s cool enough to handle, at least 15 minutes.

Place a sieve over a large bowl. Scoop out the flesh — it’s OK if a few flecks of charred skin come along with it — and place it in the sieve to drain for about 10 minutes. (Discard the skins.)

Transfer the flesh to a food processor and add the garlic, tahini, olive oil, 1 Tbsp lemon juice, cumin and a generous pinch of salt. Process until creamy; add more lemon juice and salt if you desire.

Scoop into a bowl, drizzle with additional olive oil and garnish with chopped parsley, pomegranate seeds, black sesame seeds or as you like. Serve with pita bread and/or cut-up veggies.

Serves 4.

Green Goddess Chicken Salad

Creamy, tangy green goddess dressing is traditionally made with mayo and sour cream mixed with a garden’s worth of fresh herbs and umami-rich anchovies. The lighter version here replaces the mayo with avocado and calls for cooked chicken breasts, but if you’re feeling lazy (as we often do), you can use a premade sauce and rotisserie chicken from the market instead. Feel free to add or substitute any of the herbs as you like.

Dressing:

• 1 large avocado, pitted, peeled and roughly chopped

• 1 cup plain Greek-style yogurt

• Optional: 2 anchovies packed in oil

• 1 large garlic clove, chopped

• ½ cup packed parsley leaves

• ¼ cup dill and/or basil

• 2 Tbsp tarragon

• 3 green onions, roughly chopped

• 2 Tbsp lemon juice, plus more if you like

• 3 Tbsp olive oil

• 1 lemon, finely zested and juiced

• Salt and pepper to taste

Salad:

• 4 cooked chicken breasts, sliced (see note), or a rotisserie chicken from the market, meat sliced or shredded, skin and bones discarded

• 2 heads Little Gem lettuce, leaves separated, or 1 head butter lettuce, torn into small pieces, or a bag of local salad greens

• 2 stalks celery, finely sliced crosswise

• 1 cup radishes, thinly sliced

• 1 green apple, cored and finely sliced

• 1 cucumber, finely sliced

• Optional: 1 cup sugar snap peas, cut on the diagonal into bite-sized pieces

• 1 large avocado, pitted, peeled and roughly chopped

• Finely grated lemon zest

• 1 to 2 Tbsp chopped chives

 Make the dressing:

Place all the dressing ingredients except lemon juice, zest, salt and pepper in a blender or food processor and blitz until everything is very finely chopped and emulsified. Season with 1 Tbsp of lemon juice (or more to taste), salt and pepper. Set the zest aside for later.

If the dressing is very thick, add a little cold water, 1 Tbsp at a time, until you reach your desired consistency.

Alternatively, you could use a premade dressing like the Root Cellar’s Green Sauce, which also comes in a vegan version.

 Assemble the salad: In a medium-sized bowl, toss the chicken slices with about ¼ cup of the dressing and set aside.

In another bowl, mix together the

celery, lettuce, radishes, apple, cucumber and optional snow or sugar snap peas, then either arrange the mixture on a serving platter or divide it between four dinner plates.

Arrange the chicken and avocado over the lettuce mixture, then drizzle the remaining dressing over top. Sprinkle grated lemon zest and chopped chives over the salad and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Serves 4.

Note: If you are cooking the chicken breasts from scratch, heat 1 to 2 Tbsp of neutral oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat. Season the chicken with salt and pepper, then cook for 7 to 8 minutes each side, covering with a lid for the final 5 minutes, until cooked through. Rest until cooled to room temperature, then slice. Alternatively, you can cook them on the grill — about 6 to 8 minutes per side over medium-high heat, with the lid closed as much as possible.

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Grilled Carrots with Labneh

Carrots may not be the first thing that springs to mind when you’re planning a BBQ, but maybe they should be — a little char brings out their natural sweetness. They make a simple side straight from the grill, but serving them on a pool of creamy labneh (strained yogurt) elevates them to the extraordinary. Note that you will need to start the labneh at least the night before you plan to serve it — if that’s too much effort, you can use purchased ricotta or Greek yogurt instead.

Carrots:

• 1 lb medium carrots, sliced in half lengthwise

• Extra-virgin olive oil as needed

• Salt and pepper to taste

For serving:

• 1 cup labneh, or as much as you like (see recipe, or use Greek yogurt or creamy ricotta instead)

• 2 to 3 Tbsp toasted pistachios or pine nuts

• Fresh parsley, chopped, to taste (see note)

• Optional: honey, aleppo chili flakes, za’atar and/or dukkah, to taste

Place the carrots on a baking sheet or other large dish. Drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and toss to coat.

Preheat your grill to medium. Place the carrots on the grill, cut side down. (Make sure they are perpendicular to the grate, otherwise you won’t get those lovely grill marks and, worse, they may fall right through. Or use a grill pan.) Grill for 5 to 8 minutes, or until char marks form, then flip and cook them for another 5 minutes or so. If they are not cooked through, flip them and keep cooking — they should be fork-tender and well charred.

While the carrots are grilling, spoon some labneh (or ricotta) onto a serving

it around. Arrange the carrots on top, then sprinkle them with nuts and chopped parsley. If you like, you can also drizzle them with a little honey and garnish with some aleppo chili flakes or the Middle Eastern spice blends za’atar or dukkah. Serves 4.

Note: You can replace the parsley with whatever fresh herbs take your fancy, including dill, thyme, basil or chives.

Labneh

This thick, creamy, tangy strained yogurt can be served as a spread or a dip with veggies, pita or whatever you like, or dolloped over fresh fruit for dessert — grilled peach halves, for instance.

• 2 cups plain whole milk yogurt (not low fat and preferably not Greek)

• 1 tsp kosher salt

• 2 tsp lemon juice

In a small bowl, mix together the yogurt, salt and lemon juice.

Line a fine-mesh strainer with a layer of cheesecloth (or two layers, if your yogurt is quite runny) and place over a bowl. Scoop the yogurt mixture into the cheesecloth, then place in the fridge and strain overnight and for up to two days.

The longer you strain it, the thicker it will be. Note that you can make this up to a week in advance.

Makes about 1¼ cups.

Summer Fruit Galette

A galette is a free-form pie that just happens to be the perfect vehicle for summer’s sweet stone fruits. Use whatever is on hand; it will all taste great. You could even throw a few raspberries or blackberries into the mix if you like. And if you really want to impress, add a layer of frangipane, a custardy almond paste, underneath.

Pastry:

• 1 cups all-purpose flour

• 1 tsp sugar

• Pinch salt

• ½ cup cold butter, cut into 8 or so pieces

• ¼ cup ice cold water

Filling:

• 3 cups pitted and sliced stone fruits: peaches, nectarines, plums, apricots or cherries, alone or a mix of two or more

• 1 Tbsp lemon juice

• ½ cup sugar

• 2 Tbsp all-purpose flour

• Optional: frangipane (see recipe below)

To finish:

• 1 to 2 Tbsp milk or cream

• 1 to 2 Tbsp sugar

 Make the pastry:

Scoop the flour, sugar and salt into the bowl of a food processor and give it a quick whir to combine. Add the cold butter and pulse until you have coarse crumbs about the size of a pea. With the motor running, drizzle in the water and process just until it forms a ball; take care not to over-mix.

Alternatively, in a medium bowl, combine the flour, sugar and salt. Cut in the butter with a pastry blender or two knives until it’s well combined, with lumps of fat the size of a pea. Add the cold water and stir with a fork until the dough comes together. With either method, gather the dough into a ball, flatten into a disk, cover in plastic wrap and rest for 30 to 60 minutes in the fridge.

 Assemble the galette:

While the dough is chilling, prepare the fruit and, if using, the frangipane (see recipe below). Place all the fruit in a large bowl and stir in the lemon juice.

Stir the sugar and flour together in a small bowl, then sprinkle it over the fruit and mix well.

Preheat oven to 375°F and line a baking sheet with parchment.

On a lightly dusted countertop, roll the pastry into a 10- to 12-inch circle; it should be about ¼ inch thick. Transfer to the parchment-lined baking sheet.

Optional: If you are using the frangipane, spread it in a thin, even layer over the pastry, to about 2 inches from the edge.

Mound fruit into the middle of the pastry (and on top of the frangipane if using), spreading it out to within an inch or two of the edge.

Fold the edge over wherever it wants to, enclosing the fruit. Brush the edge of the pastry with milk or cream and sprinkle with sugar.

Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until the fruit is bubbly and the crust is golden. Let cool to at least lukewarm before you cut into it. If you like, serve with a generous dollop of ice cream or whipped cream.

Serves 8.

Frangipane

This lovely, nutty paste can be used in a variety of baked goods, especially fruit tarts, adding an elegance and serious wow factor.

• 6 Tbsp unsalted butter at room temperature

• ½ cup sugar

• ¼ tsp salt

• 1 cup almond flour

• 3 Tbsp all-purpose flour

• 1 large egg, at room temperature

• 2 tsp almond extract

In a medium bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer, beat together the butter, sugar and salt until pale and fluffy, about 1 minute on medium speed.

Stir in the flours, egg and almond flavouring. Mix until just combined. Can be stored in the fridge for up to 1 week or in the freezer for up to 2 months.

Makes about 1 ½ cups.

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EASY LIVIN’

Savour the lazy days of summer.

George Gershwin is credited with writing the song that evokes the lazy days of summer with these immortal words: “Summertime, and the livin’ is easy.”

Once July hits, we’re in full slow, easy days mode — tipping back tall, icy cocktails, delighting in fresh produce from farm markets and enjoying late dinners on the patio on the longest days of the year.

“Summertime” is one of the world’s most-often covered songs in the (some 25,000 times), by artists from Billie Holiday and Ella Fitzgerald to Janis Joplin, and those easy livin’ lyrics still ring true. Enjoy the slow season!

BETTER BARBECUE

There are many ways to grill, but one of the most iconic styles of live-fire cooking is the Argentinian asado.

And there may be nothing more convivial than gathering around a long table when Argentine-born chef Matias Sallaberry and general manager Emily Davies host their asado experience events at Zambri’s

The husband-and-wife team are becoming well-known for the South Fire pop-up dinners they host at the restaurant, featuring all the fun and authentic food you’d find at a South American barbecue feast.

Their tagline is “events crafted with fire” and that’s what you’ll get, from a smoky cocktail to Sallaberry’s handmade beef empanadas, artisan charcuterie and sausages, tangy ceviche and smoky grilled beef with chimichurri sauce, along with the chef’s engaging stories and warm hospitality.

“It’s a gastronomic adventure, to reimagine the classic Argentine asado, with a modern twist,” he says.

Follow events on Instagram @southfire. ca or visit zambris.ca to learn about the next South Fire asado or empanada event.

GM Emily Davies and chef Matias Sallaberry at Zambri’s.

By Cinda Chavich

HOT DIGGITY DOG

There’s some retro nostalgia popping up on local menus — a gourmet twist on the childhood hot dog.

At Cafe Brio, chef Sam Harris wraps housemade sausages in batter and fries them into cute, crispy little corn dog appetizers, presented on a stick, just like your summer fair memories, but with a side of his honey mustard. It’s just one of the new starter snacks that include hand-cut fries with garlic mayo and scallop hushpuppies with scallion pancetta aioli.

At Pluvio in Tofino, chef Warren Barr offers the Humdog, grilled Humboldt squid in a teeny homemade hotdog bun, topped with crispy fried shallots and fermented turnip pickle. It’s a sweet starter made with the big Pacific squid that’s tasty and sustainable, too.

Or head to Saint Franks, Victoria’s downtown “gourmet hot dog dive,” for the Franks Pogos, mini corn dogs with dipping sauce, and a dozen different loaded dogs featuring Nathan’s Famous weiners.

And look for the Hotdog Hustlin’ street food cart down by the Inner Harbour for some interesting stuff on the grill, including hot dogs, smokies and Filipino pork isaw (intestine) and pig ears.

At Cafe Brio, chef Sam Harris puts an elevated spin on the summer-favourite corn dog.

JOHANN

VINCENT

SMOKIN’ SIPS

Smoke and fire are great for cooking meat and vegetables, but how about a little char in your cocktail?

Smoke adds a whiff of complexity to spirits, whether it’s from the driftwood and seaweed fires that flavour Shelter Point’s Smoke Point single malt whisky or the slow-burning Western Red Cedar that adds dark, savoury notes to the Black Tusk Smoked Vodka from Raincity Distillery in Squamish.

Ask your favourite bartender for their take on the smoky cocktail — it’s always fun to watch them infuse an Old Fashioned using a nifty “smoking gun” tool.

Or try this easy idea at home. Ignite a sprig of fresh rosemary or thyme (over the gas burner or with a brûlée torch) and, once it’s smouldering, set an inverted glass over top to trap the smoke. Mix your cocktail and pour into the smoke-infused glass.

If you’re serving a crowd, select eight-ounce Mason jars (to use as a cocktail glass), fill with ice and place the smoking sprig of rosemary inside the jar, then screw on the lid. Pass the smoke-filled jars to your guests, mix up a batch of your favourite cocktail, then serve drinks tableside, letting each guest remove the lid before you pour.

TANDOORI TO GO

If you love spicy grilled tandoori-style chicken, check out the offerings from the Garcha Bros Meat Shop & Poultry, a meat counter inside the new Day to Day Indian grocery store on Burnside Road.

There are several tasty flavours of marinated chicken pieces to try, whether you opt for the malai or peri peri chicken wings, the boneless Nawabi tikka chicken skewers, or the tandoori-spiced legs and thighs. Take home the marinated meats to sear on the grill, or call ahead and they’ll cook it to order.

SIPS Food + Drink

By Joanne Sasvari

Easy to make and low in alcohol, Italy’s appetizing export is the most stylish way to keep cool when the weather is hot.

SUMMER OF THE SPRITZ

When the weather is sultry and steamy, we crave something lightly bittered, thirstquenching and low in alcohol. What we crave is a spritz. The fact that it comes with all the style cred of Italian dolce vita only makes us want it more.

Oh, sure, you might be over the ubiquitous Aperol spritz, with its radioactive-waste-orange hue and too-often too-sweet flavour. We are, too. But made properly, a spritz is a terrific thing, easy to assemble and just as easy to enjoy.

The spritz originated back in the early 1800s, in the Veneto region of Italy, where the sparkling wine known as Prosecco comes from. The way the story goes: Austrian soldiers visiting what was then part of their empire would lighten the local wines with a “spritz” (German for “splash”) of water to make them lighter and more like beer. Over time, the still water became carbonated, the wine became liqueur or amaro, Prosecco entered the picture and the spritz became an essential part of aperitivo, the civilized hour before dinner when people in Italy meet to socialize over drinks and small bites.

The key here is the amaro, Italian for “bitter.” Amaros are a type of bittered liqueur created to aid in digestion, typically from a secret recipe of herbs, flowers, roots, seeds, citrus peel, bark,

spices and/or other botanical things. They are infused in grape brandy, which is then sweetened to make it palatable.

It’s the distinctive herbal bitterness that makes these drinks so appetizing; it also happens to make them pair nicely with salty snacks like olives, cheese and salumi.

There are hundreds of these aperitifs and digestifs; some of the better known in this market include Campari, Fernet-Branca, Amaro Montenegro, Cynar, Averna and Amaro Ramazzotti. Aperol, a lighter, sweeter apéritif made with gentian, rhubarb and cinchona, came along in 1919 followed by the famous spritz in the 1950s.

But any amaro will work in a spritz, and you can also play with other liqueurs, spirits and garnishes from the garden. Just keep in mind that it’s meant to be fizzy and low in alcohol, a long, slow session drink rather than a boozy sprint.

Try these recipes, or, to make your own signature spritz, just follow the traditional 3-2-1 proportions — three parts Prosecco, two parts amaro or liqueur, one part soda water. Serve it with lots of ice in a large glass (wine goblet, Collins or double rocks), stir gently and garnish with a slice of citrus or citrus peel.

Repeat as needed all summer long.

RECIPES

Not Sangria

At Victoria’s Wind Cries Mary, the team often takes creative spins on the spritz, including this play on the popular “red wine and cola” idea, created by bartender Charlotte Sirk.

• 1 oz pisco (Chilean or Peruvian brandy)

• ½ oz Esquimalt Kina Salal

• 1 oz Champagne acid or lemon juice

• ½ oz vanilla syrup (see note)

• 1 dash Ms. Betters Kola Bitters

• Lambrusco to top (a fizzy red Italian wine)

• Garnish: lemon twist

Add all the ingredients except Lambrusco to a tall glass and stir gently. Add ice, then top with Lambrusco and garnish with a lemon twist. Serves 1.

Note: You can of course purchase vanilla syrup, but it’s also easy to make your own. Add 1 cup each water and sugar to a small pot, along with a vanilla bean cut in half lengthwise. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes, stirring often. Remove from heat, strain out the vanilla bean and chill before using. Makes about 1 cup.

Aperol Spritz

The classic, enjoyed in Italy since the 1950s, has swept North America in a bittersweet wave since the 2010s.

• 3 oz Prosecco

• 2 oz Aperol

• 1 oz club soda

• Garnish: orange slice or lemon peel

Add ice to a large wine glass, then add Prosecco, Aperol and soda. Stir gently. Garnish with the orange slice. Serves 1.

St - Germain Hugo Spritz

Move over, Aperol, Hugo’s in town. From Germany to India to the U.S., this bright floral update on the classic spritz is the thirstquenching cocktail of the moment among jet-setters and backyard party hosts alike.

• 1½ oz St-Germain Elderflower Liqueur

• 8 to 10 mint leaves, gently slapped to release their aroma

• 2 oz Prosecco such as Martini

• 2 oz soda water

• Garnish: lime wedge and additional sprig of mint

Fill a wine glass with ice. Add St-Germain and mint leaves. Top with Prosecco and soda water. Stir gently. Garnish with mint sprig and lime wedge. Serves 1.

Americano

No, not the coffee, but the cocktail that was first served in the 1860s at Gaspare Campari’s bar in Milan, a lighter, more refreshing precursor to the Negroni. It was also the first cocktail James Bond ordered in Casino Royale, the book that kicked off the series.

• 1 ½ oz Campari

• 1 ½ oz sweet (Italian) vermouth

• Club soda, to top

• Garnish: orange twist

Fill a highball glass with ice, then add the Campari and sweet vermouth. Top with soda water and stir gently to combine. Garnish with orange twist. Serves 1.

The

Summer Series

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St-Germain Hugo Spritz

BUSTED

Feeling anxious? Sleeping badly? Worried about, well, everything? You’re not alone. Here’s what’s happening — and what you can do about it.

By Joanne Sasvari

In the summer of 2022, in the space of just a few weeks, I started a new job, put my house on the market, moved to a new city — and then my mom had the fall that would have her in and out of hospital and lead to her death a few months later. I was hitting many of the high points in the life stressor list all at once.

I was also scratching my elbow. A lot. Overnight, it seems, I’d developed a weird rash that brought along its friends insomnia, headache, a touch of agoraphobia, weight gain, back pain and some truly unwelcome lines between my eyebrows.

I was, it’s fair to say, pretty darn stressed, and my body was letting me know it.

But what is stress anyway? The World Health Organization defines it as “a state

of worry or mental tension caused by a difficult situation,” adding: “Stress is a natural human response that prompts us to address challenges and threats in our lives. Everyone experiences stress to some degree. The way we respond to stress, however, makes a big difference to our overall well-being.”

No kidding.

Stress can be positive or negative, mental or physical, short term or long. It is caused by many things, from small daily irritations to the sweeping anxiety that results from global disasters we have no control over. (Worldwide pandemic, anyone?) It can also have a serious impact on our health, especially if our coping mechanisms are not particularly sound. Here’s how to recognize stress — and

what to do about it before it becomes a serious problem.

GOOD STRESS, BAD STRESS

Back in the before times, when a threat meant a large, hungry predator rather than, say, a scary Visa bill, our bodies developed some handy ways to fight back. If a giant saber-toothed cat showed up around the campfire, our sympathetic nervous system would release a flood of hormones, notably adrenalin, that triggered an acute stress response. Better known as the fight-or-flight response, it gave us the boost we needed to escape near-certain death.

More recently, we’ve learned that a whole cascade of other hormones is involved in stress, too, including estrogen,

POORLY

MANAGED

STRESS

CAN CAUSE PHYSICAL

CONDITIONS

INCLUDING HEADACHES, MUSCLE TENSION, CHEST PAIN, FATIGUE, CHANGES IN SEX DRIVE, DIGESTIVE PROBLEMS, INSOMNIA, SKIN DISORDERS, WEIGHT GAIN (OR LOSS) AND A WEAKENED IMMUNE SYSTEM.

testosterone and cortisol, as well as the neurotransmitters dopamine and serotonin. We’ve also reframed our stress response as “fight-flight-freeze-or-fawn,” recognizing that sometimes the best response to danger is to stay very, very still or to make nice to the aggressor that is terrifying us.

Here’s the thing, though. We may no longer have to flee that fanged feline, but all those stress hormones are still flooding our bodies. With nowhere to go, over time they are making us sick.

For instance, adrenalin makes the heart beat faster, which gives you more energy, but also causes your blood pressure to soar. Cortisol, the primary stress hormone, increases glucose in the bloodstream and, in short spurts, fights inflammation and boosts your immunity. But after a while, it does the opposite and, rather unpleasantly, can also lead to the sad, saggy condition known as cortisol belly.

Poorly managed stress can cause physical conditions including headaches, muscle tension, chest pain, fatigue, changes in sex drive, digestive problems, insomnia, skin disorders, weight gain (or loss) and a weakened immune system that makes us more susceptible to whatever bug is going around. These conditions can lead to more serious chronic health problems such as high blood pressure, heart disease, stroke and diabetes.

Stress can also affect us mentally, emotionally and behaviourally. It can mess up our ability to concentrate and make us anxious, restless, forgetful, irritable, easily overwhelmed, unmotivated and just plain sad. We can find ourselves making poor choices — overindulging in food, alcohol, drugs or risky behaviour, for instance — and avoiding the very things that will make us feel better, like spending time with friends or hitting the gym.

IT’S NOT JUST YOU

As bad as it may make us feel on an individual level, stress also has a broader, and bigger, impact on our society.

According to research by the U.S. National Institute of Mental Health, American Heart Association, Mayo Clinic and others, a whopping 75 to 90 per cent of all doctors’ office visits are for stress-related ailments and complaints. The U.S. Occupational Safety and Health Administration, meanwhile, has declared stress a hazard of the workplace that costs American industry more than US$300 billion annually.

On this side of the border, the Canadian Mental Health Association has noted that 14 per cent of Canadian youth feel stressed “on most days,” and has identified increased levels of stress among the elderly. The CMHA also notes that women are more likely than men to report feeling stressed, and that men and women react to different kinds of stress. Women mostly worry about relationships as well as chronic stressors like never having enough time and never feeling like they can meet others’ expectations; for men, it’s mainly work and finances.

And then, aside from whatever is happening in our personal lives, there are the big things we have no control over — the climate crisis, polarized politics, an uncertain economy and conflicts from Ukraine to Gaza to Sudan.

I suspect you might be feeling a little stressed yourself right now.

DETERMINING WHAT KIND OF STRESS YOU ARE DEALING WITH AND WHAT YOUR STRESSORS ARE WILL HELP YOU FIND A HEALTHY WAY TO MANAGE IT.

If you are, it may help to determine what kind of stress you are dealing with and what your stressors are so you can find a healthier way to manage it.

There are three main kinds of negative stress: acute, which is sudden and short term; episodic acute, the kind of ongoing distress caused by crushing work deadlines or bickering with your spouse over money; and chronic, when a negative experience seems to be inescapable and neverending, for instance, an abusive marriage, toxic workplace or childhood trauma.

There are also many different kinds of stressors, some of which you can control, many of which you can’t. A noisy, uncomfortable or unsafe physical environment can raise your stress level; so can unhealthy relationships, worries about family, conflicts with coworkers, anxiety about money and the many negative consequences of living with poverty, discrimination, harassment, isolation or loneliness.

And, of course, major life changes like a move, job change, divorce or death in the family can also amp up the pressure, even if the changes are happy ones.

Which brings me back to my elbow. It took me a long time to realize just how much stress I was under and even longer to start dealing with it. What can I say? It’s a process. But at least it led me to writing this story in the hopes it might help you — and me, too.

7 WAYS TO SUPPRESS STRESS

1 Get some rest. Practise good sleep hygiene by making your bedroom dark, cool, quiet, comfortable and smartphone-free.

2 Get some exercise. Go for a walk, do some stretches, turn up the radio and dance around the kitchen. Even a little movement will make you feel a lot better.

3 Nourish yourself. Skip the booze and junk food (no matter how tempting it is), and feast on something that is both delicious and packed with nutrition.

4 Be mindful. Even a few minutes of meditation, yoga or relaxation techniques can help calm your monkey brain.

5 Stay connected. Spend time with friends, family and people who make you happy.

6 But not too connected. Too much exposure to bad news is not great for our mental health. If the headlines are getting to you, power down your device and bake some cookies instead.

7 Do things that bring you joy. Keep up with your hobbies, watch the sunset, read a good book, walk along the beach, bake a cake, plant some flowers, get a massage or steam away your cares in a sauna.

Finally, if you are feeling truly overwhelmed, helpless or hopeless, turn to the professionals. There are many resources that can help, starting with these three:

• HeretoHelp is a handy resource run by a group of seven leading mentalhealth and substance-use agencies. heretohelp.bc.ca

• HealthLink BC offers free, non-emergency help at 811 or healthlinkbc.ca.

• If you are in distress, you can connect immediately to a B.C. crisis line, for free, any time of the day or night, by calling 310-6789.

“The team is friendly, enthusiastic and supportive of each other and the patients. They do a great job of taking away the anxiety of having dental work done.”

- Gary

Dr. Braden Zoon and Dr. Denysse Zoon

Don’t Sleep on Seattle

JUST A SHORT AND SCENIC FERRY RIDE AWAY, THE EMERALD CITY BECKONS WITH NEW HOTELS, RESTAURANTS AND PLACEMAKING MEGA-PROJECTS. By

OTom Gierasimczuk

ver the 13 years that my family has called Victoria home, one question perplexes both our local and out-of-town friends and family more than any other: Why do you go to Seattle so frequently? More than Vancouver. More than Tofino. More than Mexico or Hawaii.

The answers depend on the inquiring company, of course. To the urbanists in our life, we cite the ability to “walk” there, courtesy of the Victoria Clipper’s downtown-to-downtown passenger service (as opposed to a BC Ferries odyssey). For winers and diners, we mention the dizzying variety of Seattle’s 70 breweries and 1,700 restaurants serving up a bounty of Washington state-grown hops, produce and grapes that would impress a European with their terroir. For young parents, we point out the safety (despite what you hear on Fox News), walkability and overall inclusivity of a place that’s an ascendant American metropolis that still manages to be as Canadian a U.S. city as you’ll find.

This summer, two decades of investment in Seattle by visionary city leaders and local mega-billionaires like Jeff Bezos and Bill Gates is blooming all at once, with new restaurants, hotels, festivals and city-shaping mega-projects not seen since the 1962 World’s Fair. If you haven’t been for a while, it’s never been easier or more worthwhile (stubbornly low loonie be damned).

THE ACCESS

It’s always going to be pricey to get off the South Island, so the next best thing is convenience and Seatown takes less time to get to than VanCity. The iconic Victoria Clipper takes you from the Steamship Terminal to Pier 69 and right into the city’s expanding waterfront (more on that in a bit). The crossing takes less than three hours, with about an hour to check in and clear U.S. customs. Return sailings start at just over $200, but spurge another $100 for the Comfort Class for free checked bags, top-deck seating and views, welcome Prosecco and unlimited coffee, tea, soft drinks, fruit and snacks.

Driving? The 65-year-old MV Coho ferry alone is worth the trip — a trip back in time where dogs (and beers) are allowed on deck, retro signage endures and a roof-top deck will have you squinting for whales and orca that sometimes make an appearance on the 42-kilometre, 90-minute sailing to Port Angeles, the largest town on the north coast of the Olympic Peninsula. From there, it’s another 2.5 hours and a Washington State ferry crossing via Bainbridge Island that delivers the city’s ever-sprouting skyline on a platter upon a downtown approach.

THE WATERFRONT

The Seattle waterfront will be completed next year, but it’s already drawing curious locals and visitors alike.

That eyesore Alaskan Way elevated highway was buried and tolled in favour of a walkable and bike-friendly promenade along Elliott Bay, with new shops and restaurants as well as a Washington State Ferries terminal to easily explore west of the city. The city’s many once-neglected piers are being reinforced and developed as micro-neighbourhoods and performance venues with a front-row view of the Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains beyond.

Amazing Thailand

November

Culinary & Culture Tour with Chef Heidi Fink

Experience the national cuisine of Thailand and the cultural traditions and history of this fascinating country. One of the most distinctive cuisines in the global gastronomy map, Thai cooking demonstrates intricacy and attention to texture, colour, and balance in its presentation, and embraces the use of ingredients which have medicinal value as well as good flavour.

While Thai cuisine is central to its culture, your journey will also include visits to numerous temples, traditional villages, and markets, offering a window into the country’s rich history. The allure of Thailand often leaves visitors eager to return to the

The Seattle Great Wheel at Pier 57

Land of Smiles.

Tour host Chef Heidi Fink Learn more about this incredible trip!

“AMERICAN BRASSERIE” THE GEORGE IS ALREADY A LOCAL FAVE FOR ITS OPULENT, CLASSIC DESIGN AND COMMITMENT TO LOCALLY SOURCED INGREDIENTS.

The Seattle Aquarium’s new Ocean Pavilion is also opening this summer, showcasing tropical species from the Coral Triangle in the Indo-Pacific. It links to the city’s iconic Pike Place Market (itself recently expanded with observation decks and new galleries) with new paths, stairs and an oculus window that allows passersby to observe sea life from below.

THE HOTELS

To accommodate all these people coming to see the new Seattle, hotels are opening and being renovated all over the city, with nods to both the city’s sustainability and history. One of the most anticipated is the Hotel Westland in Seattle’s historic Pioneer Square neighbourhood, just south of downtown. Located in RailSpur, a new sustainable micro-district that includes three historic warehouse buildings, the 120-room boutique property boasts a rooftop bar and events in its brick alley, and claims to be the second hotel in the country to be “carbon-positive.”

Just north, the Fairmont Olympic Hotel is showing off US$25 million in renos, just in time to celebrate its centennial in late 2024. Its new restaurant, an “American brasserie” called The George, is already a local fave for its opulent, classic design and commitment to locally sourced ingredients.

The George at the Fairmont Olympic Hotel

A few minutes’ walk away is equally lavish Korean luxury hospitality brand Lotte Hotel Seattle with some of the best hotel spa and restaurant experiences in the city (for a price). Brand-new builds include the two-year-old Level Seattle in the Amazon-dominated South Lake Union area across from the Seattle Times newspaper offices. With spacious family studios and suites, some with full kitchens, in-suite laundry, three pools, indoor basketball court and climbing wall, it’s a destination unto itself.

THE RESTAURANTS

Powered by the post-pandemic demand, Seattle may hit 2,000 restaurants as new rooms and concepts open across the city. A few months back, three area restaurants made the New York Times’s 2023 Restaurants List: local Michelin-starred icon Canlis, as well as LTD Edition Sushi, and Seabird. Recent openings are equally fascinating. Darkalino’s is an Italian deli in historic Pioneer Square that’s also a sneaker shop. A bit east of downtown, in the Greenwood neighbourhood, the just-opened Lioness is a Italian joint and wine bar from Renee Erickson’s

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Are you curious about finding out where you stand in terms of meeting your financial goals? Call or email Shine Financial Group to book your complimentary goals assessment.

locally loved Sea Creatures Group. Combine a quick walk-on ferry ride with your meal and head to West Seattle’s new Driftwood, a low-key spot committed to local cuisine. Of course the city also boasts all manner of bars and more than 60 breweries (70 per cent of U.S. hops are grown in Yakima, Washington, a two-hour drive southeast of the city).

THE CULTURE

Even for a city that boasts an 11-storey Rem Koolhaas-designed architectural marvel as its central library, Seattle is still adding to its cultural bounty over the next year.

The new Seattle International Film Festival Cinema just reopened as a nonprofit and features everything from the latest Christopher Nolan blockbusters to first-run arthouse cinema and a full calendar of the city’s film festivals. Also opening in downtown’s historic Skinner Building this summer is the new Museum of Illusions, packed with kid- and teenager-friendly mindbending exhibits and installations. The expanding Pike Place Market just unveiled the Mutual Arts Collective’s gallery and multi-use event space, founded by Ashley McCready with her husband (and Pearl Jam guitarist) Mike McCready, a space committed to showing and selling work by artists who are impacted by structural inequities and

VISIT SEATTLE

Seattle Art Museum

(Left) Charlotte Paul, CIM, Associate Portfolio Manager, Assante Capital Management Ltd.

systemic barriers. The opening gallery exhibit, “Unpacking Homelessness,” spotlights the work of seven artists who portray their unhoused experiences.

A bit north, in South Lake Union the Northwest Native Canoe Center is unveiling its Carving House over the next year to revitalize and educate locals and visitors about Pacific Northwest canoe culture and its vital role in Indigenous life.

You probably know the three-year-old Climate Pledge Arena for its massive concerts and as the home of the NHL’s Seattle Kraken and WNBA Seattle Storm, but to dive into the most sustainable arena on the planet, it’s best to join the new hour-long tours that take you behind the scenes of one of the most ambitious sports and entertainment construction projects in North America.

THE FESTIVALS

Few North American cities do summer festivals better than Seattle and this summer is extra special because of the 50th anniversaries of Seattle Pride Month, the Seattle International Film Festival and the city’s beloved MLS Sounders soccer club. SeaFair, the massive 10-week celebration running from late June to early August, also turns 75 this summer, with a party that includes 40-plus events including air shows, parades and neighbourhood parties across the city.

FEW NORTH AMERICAN CITIES DO SUMMER FESTIVALS BETTER THAN SEATTLE.

Autumn doesn’t cool down either, with the 51st annual Bumbershoot arts and music festival taking over the city, August 31 to September 1 weekend, followed by REFRACT: The Seattle Glass Experience, an ode to Seattle’s glass art industry, honoured year round in the eye-popping Chihuly Garden and Glass Museum..

With so much to see, taste and do in Seattle, you might just find yourself visiting the Emerald City as often as we do. For more information, go to: visitseattle.org

MAPLE MARINATED SALMON SALAD

Serves 2 as a meal or 4 as a side

INGREDIENTS

250g wild BC salmon, skin off, cut into 1" cubes

2 ears of corn

2 peaches, skin on, cut into 1" cubes

1 small head butter lettuce, or other greens

3 Tbsp maple syrup

2 Tbsp apple cider vinegar

2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus more to drizzle

1 Tbsp kosher salt

¼ cup torn basil leaves

2 Tbsp chopped chives

HOW TO MAKE IT

Preheat oven to 400° F.

Roast corn in the husks for 10 to 15 minutes or until corn is tender.

While corn is cooling let’s marinate the salmon. Combine maple syrup, kosher salt, olive oil and cider vinegar together. Pour mixture over the salmon pieces, mix well and pop in the fridge for 20 minutes.

Once corn is cool, husk it and cut the kernels off the cob.

Toss corn kernels, peaches, and herbs in with the marinated salmon.

Tear the lettuce and lay out on a plate. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. Top the greens with the salmon mixture and enjoy in the summer sun!

Always be sure that any raw fish you eat has been previously frozen. If raw fish isn’t your jam, this would be delicious grilled or baked first then marinated the same way.

Chihuly Garden and Glass Museum

Totem in Pioneer Square

GARDENS MAGIC

Music, art, food and more will fill the grounds at Government House for the brand-new ArtisTREE Festival.

By David Lennam | Photo by Jeffrey Bosdet

For a long time, Cory Judge had been contemplating an idea for an outdoor market. But not just any market — a spectacular outdoor market featuring some of the best music, food and vendors around. One day, walking through the lush gardens at Government House, she knew she’d found her venue.

“I just thought this is the most beautiful space in Victoria to be able to have an event that would profile creativity and artisans and music,” she says.

And with this, ArtisTREE Festival was born.

Jerymy Brownridge, private secretary to the lieutenant-governor, was immediately on board. ArtisTREE is another chance to show off the magnificent gardens at Government House, still something of a hidden jewel for many Victorians.

“We love the notion of doing some sort of family-oriented festival every year,” he says. “We have had great success in outdoor festivals at least once a year, providing opportunity for communities to gather on this beautiful property.”

Judge brought in her partners in the Victoria Market Collective, Katrina Dwulit and Vanessa Gaudet. The trio has staged numerous markets in Victoria, but most of them on a smaller scale and often confined to very urban environs. The expansive Government House gardens with their enormous trees, running water and huge lawns are a stark contrast to the typical parking lot where so many local markets are set up.

“What kind of ambience is a parking lot?” says Dwulit.

ArtisTREE will feature a juried selection of 128 artisans, handmade wares, food trucks, a kids’ crafts area, a fashion show, performance artists, installations artists, Indigenous artists and plenty of live music curated by musician Mike Roma.

The daytime stage will feature solo, duo and trio acts, culminating with evening performances by Roma’s roots rock band Electric Timber and alt-country outfit Pony Gold. Those artists playing during the day will join the headliners at night. In an innovative twist, the lineups throughout the day will be chosen by the band from the opposite night.

“The idea,” says Roma, “is to have a collaborative day of music where artists will get a chance to make live music together and create future musical friendships.”

“I just thought this is the most beautiful space in Victoria to be able to have an event that would profile creativity and artisans and music.”

The organizers are aware of the abundance of local markets that pop up around Victoria, and are equally aware of their homogeneity — the same vendors in the same layout with the same entertainment.

“Everyone’s doing a market every day of the week,” says Dwulit. “We wanted to create something different and special.”

A multi-dimensional experience, adds Judge. A designer whose Shi Studio creates jewelry, stained glass, silk and textile pieces, Judge has spent 20 years attending some of the biggest festivals in the country. With ArtisTREE, she is taking her favourite elements from her travels and presenting them to Victorians.

“Personally, this has always been a dream

of mine. I think that creative lifestyle fills our soul and is a recognition of what brings communities together. At the root of it, it’s about inspiration.”

Judge has taken a cue from Comox’s popular Filberg Festival, which has people booking hotels 10 months in advance. She figures it could become a key annual event for Victoria, attracting up to 10,000 people a day.

“It’s sort of a melding of all of my favourite elements,” she says. “It has so much potential.”

ArtisTREE runs July 27, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., and July 28, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. at Government House. Admission is free. Note that there will be no parking at Government House. artistreefestival.com

ArtisTREE Festival founder Cory Judge discovered the perfect venue in the lush grounds of Government House.

CULTURE CALENDAR

Take it (Mostly) Outside

Night Illuminations

Until September 15, The Butchart Gardens

During the day, Victoria’s most famous display gardens are a bower of floral beauty. But at dusk they are transformed into a magical wonderland by more than 3,000 subtle lights that create an artistic display of light and shadow. Night Illuminations is open Wednesday through Sunday evenings all summer long. butchartgardens.com

Canadian Modern

Until February 16, 2025, Royal BC Museum

Explore the experimentation, innovation and ingenuity behind 100 culturally significant objects from homeware to fashion created in Canada from the mid20th century onward. This is a terrific opportunity to discover Canada’s best and most influential designers. While you’re here, also check out Stonehenge (until January 5), a remarkable exhibition that features 400-plus ancient artifacts from the prehistoric megalithic structure on Salisbury Plain, including some that have never been seen before in North America. royalbcmuseum.bc.ca

A View From Here: Reimagining the AGGV Collections

Until April 27, 2029, Art Gallery of Greater Victoria

For the next five years, the gallery is showcasing selected treasures from its extraordinary permanent collections, both its world-renowned Asian art and works by Indigenous and Canadian artists from the 19th century to the present. Among them are Victoria’s own Sophie Pemberton and Emily Carr, as well as the Group of Seven and other famed artists. Even more great Canadian art is on display during Generations: The Sobey Family and Canadian Art, a travelling exhibition curated by the McMichael Canadian Art Collection (until October 27). aggv.ca

Present Laughter

June 26 to July 14, Langham Court Theatre

Playwright Noël Coward’s legendary wit and wordplay are in full flamboyant force in this lighthearted farce based on his own largerthan-life persona. It follows the travails of Garry Essendine, star of the London theatrical scene, who, just as he is about to embark on an African tour, finds himself juggling an eccentric and demanding cast of adoring (sometimes too adoring) characters along with his own looming mid-life crisis. langhamtheatre.ca

Victoria Pride

June 27 to July 7, various locations

The city will be all decked out in rainbow hues for this annual celebration of visibility, acceptance and equity for the LGBT+ community, working toward a society free of marginalization and discrimination, not just for that community, but for all of us. There will be a full week of events culminating in the annual parade, an exuberance of identity, solidarity and drag queens. victoriapridesociety.org

Music in the Park

July 2 to August 20, various locations

The best way to spend a summer evening is to bring a picnic, relax and enjoy an evening of music in one of Saanich’s many pretty parks. Each Tuesday, from 6 to 8 p.m., a different band plays in a different park across the municipality, from the rockin’ sounds of Low Winter Sun at Goward House to the funky soul of Groove Kitchen at Beckwith Park. Also: Check out the Indigenous Music Festival July 26 and 27 at Hampton Park. For the full schedule, visit the website. saanich.ca

Victoria HarbourCats vs Kelowna Falcons

July 5, 6 and 7, Royal Athletic Park

Is there any activity more summery than heading down to the ball park to watch the hometown team play? Soak in the sun, a couple of pints and all the great baseball action. For the full summer schedule of home and away games, visit the website. harbourcats.com

City of Gardens Quilt Show and Sale

August 23 to 25, Pearkes Recreation Centre Consider them works of art in fabric form, beautiful, colourful and cozy. The Victoria Quilters’ Guild shows off all their hard handstitched work in this display of more than 250 quilts — and best of all, you can pick one up for yourself or someone you love. victoriaquiltersguild.org

Island Vintage Events

August 24 and 25, Mary Winspear Centre

Two-step back in time at this retro fest that features live performances by Slim Sandy and the Hillbilly Boppers, as well as Hank Angel, Aloha Fit and Roller Skate Victoria. Plus there will be food trucks, a vintage fashion showcase, vendors and a classic car display. Let the good olden times roll. marywinspear.ca

Touchdown Pacific

August 29 to 31, Ship Point and Royal Athletic Park

On August 31, Vancouver’s B.C. Lions play their first-ever Canadian Football League regular season game in Victoria, kicking off against the Ottawa Redblacks at Royal Athletic Park. But the fun starts long before that with a roaring two-day festival of all things Canadian football at Ship Point. bclions.com/touchdown-pacific

45th Annual Classic Boat Festival

August 30 to September 1, Maritime Museum of BC

As many as 100 vintage vessels will fill the Inner Harbour for this celebration of the sea. Head to the docks to see their beautiful lines, cheer on your favourite in the races, enjoy the naval bands and join in the many activities celebrating whatever floats your boat. mmbc.bc.ca

Romanesco: The Cooler Cauliflower

By Joanne Sasvari

As you’re meandering through your local farmers’ market or one of the fancier greengrocers this summer, you may find your eye caught by a spiky, sculptural, pale-green heirloom vegetable that is (almost) too pretty to eat.

Sometimes called a Romanesco cauliflower, other times a Romanesco broccoli or just plain Romanesco, it’s similar to both — they are all cultivars of the species Brassica oleracea — but way more intriguing than either.

Romanesco is actually an edible flower. It’s also a natural mathematical masterpiece. Its conical buds are arranged in a natural fractal, a logarithmic spiral that is a Fibonacci number, meaning that the size of each bud equals the sum of the preceding two. This is also known as the divine ratio, which seems about right for such an intriguing vegetable.

Romanesco was first grown in Rome (hence the name) around the 16th century, the result of selective breeding just as cauliflower itself was a few hundred years earlier. Today it is grown all over the world and is among the most expensive veggies you’ll find in the produce section. It takes a lot of care to get those perfectly formed logarithmic spirals.

But, you may be wondering, what should you do with it? Like cauliflower, Romanesco can be eaten raw or cooked, though you’ll want to treat it gently to preserve its delicate, sweetly earthy, slightly nutty flavour. Try steaming, baking or sautéeing it with olive oil, and season with salt, pepper and maybe a little garlic, lemon zest and/or a pinch of red pepper flakes. It makes a great side dish and an even better topic of conversation. You could even say it’s pretty divine.

YAM magazine July/August 2024

CONTENTS

Best Restaurants

FOOD + DRINK

CONTENTS

86 Stress Busted

DEPARTMENTS

EDITOR’S LETTER

90

Don’t Sleep on Seattle

A taste of this place

A Glam New Getaway

NEW FROM DUALIT

HERE + NOW

LIGHTEN UP

5 CHILL WAYS to be cool this summer

Summery Slip-ons

Cool Treats

Linen Layers

A Head Start

A Fan Base

WAVE GOODBYE TO STRESS

Sound therapy for overactive minds.

Suit Yourself

LAKE LIFE

Resilience in Purple and Teal

SEATTLE GETAWAY GIVEAWAY

You could win an FRS Clipper trip!

HELP WHEN IT’S NEEDED MOST

The Knowledge Keeper

LEARNING FROM THE ELDERS

RECONCILIATION AND RENEWAL

Their Side of the Mountain

AWARD-WINNING DESIGN

AT ONE WITH NATURE

CUSTOM OUTDOOR KITCHENS

Express Yourself Express Yourself

2024 Restaurants Best

Restaurant of the Year

THE COURTNEY ROOM

Chef of the Year

Runners -up:

Corbin Mathany, Ugly Duckling Dining & Provisions

Best New Restaurant

MARILENA CAFE & RAW BAR

Runners -up: Block Kitchen + Bar | Cafe Malabar

Best Casual

BLOCK KITCHEN +

Runners-up

Best Big Night Out

Runners-up

Best Pastry Chef

Runners-up

Best Patio

Runners-up

Best Brunch

HOUSE OF BOATENG

Runners-up

Best Plant-Based

Runners-up

Best Happy Hour

Runners-up

Best European

Runners-up

Best East Asian

Runners-up

Best Latin

Runners-up

Best South or Southeast Asian

CAFE MALABAR

Runners-up

Best Middle Eastern or North African

Runners-up

Best West Coast Contemporary

WILD MOUNTAIN FOOD & DRINK

Runners-up

Best Sommelier and/or Wine Program

THE COURTNEY ROOM

Runners-up

Best Cocktail Bar or Lounge