ISSUE 79 JUL/AUG 2022
yammagazine.com
VICTORIA’S LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE
FOOD+ DRINK ISSUE
Best
WINNER
Restaurant of the Year Page 42
Restaurant Awards 2 02 2
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Three Point Motors
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U N N UN UW NW W I NII D ND DI NII N N C O M F O R T T HT TEH HE EC O CM OF MO FR OT RS TS S O F S I D N E Y ’ S O FO FS ISDI N DE NY E ’YS’ S C O A C H A R CO CA OSA ATS SAT TL AL LC H CA HR AM RM M
Situated at shore of Salish Situated Situated at the at the the shore shore of the of the the Salish Salish Sea,Sea, Sea, Sidney’s historic and vibrant downtown Sidney’s Sidney’s historic historic andand vibrant vibrant downtown downtown
district is heart of Saanich Peninsula. district district is the is the the heart heart of the of the the Saanich Saanich Peninsula. Peninsula. Sidney is diverse, teeming with Sidney Sidney is wonderfully is wonderfully wonderfully diverse, diverse, teeming teeming with with outstanding food, culture, arts, adventure outstanding outstanding food, food, culture, culture, arts, arts, andand and adventure adventure options. Scenic trails seascapes afford options. options. Scenic Scenic trails trails andand and seascapes seascapes afford afford endless possibilities for fun and exploration endless endless possibilities possibilities for for funfun andand exploration exploration - -truly something everyone! truly truly something something for for for everyone! everyone!
Whether you’re aa returning visitor, resident, Whether Whether you’re you’re a returning returning visitor, visitor, resident, resident, or a first-timer to the area, there is always or aor first-timer a first-timer to the to the area, area, there there is always is always something to in something something newnew new to experience to experience experience in Sidney. in Sidney. Sidney. Reconnect with nature, family, and friends Reconnect Reconnect withwith nature, nature, family, family, andand friends friends discover locals have fallen in andand and discover discover whywhy why locals locals have have fallen fallen in love in love love with this paradise. withwith thisthis paradise. paradise. us aa look aa sample VisitVisit Visit us online us online online andand and taketake take a look look at aat atsample sample itinerary to see what awaits your next visit itinerary itinerary to see to see what what awaits awaits your your next next visit visit to by to Sidney to Sidney Sidney by the by the the Sea.Sea. Sea.
EXPLORESIDNEY.CA EXPLORESIDNEY.CA EXPLORESIDNEY.CA @EXPLORESIDNEY @EXPLORESIDNEY @EXPLORESIDNEY
© Sidney Business Improvement Area © Sidney © Sidney Business Business Improvement Improvement AreaArea
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CO N T E N T S departments
10
EDITOR’S NOTE
13
H ERE + NOW Enjoy a dip in our oceans and lakes; how to look good on the links; plus the latest jewelry trends.
20
I N PERSON Meet Paula Callahan, artist and humanitarian, whose heart-wrenching story will move and inspire you. By David Lennam
30
HOME + LIFESTYLE
HÉLÈNE CYR
Colour me happy with bright walls and beautiful spaces in this stunning home.
PAGE
38
Best Restaurants 2022
By Danielle Pope
70
STYLE WATCH Easy, uncomplicated summer style. Styled by Janine Metcalfe
88
SCENE Rifflandia’s Nick Blasko shares his views on bringing back our beloved musical festival.
They’re back and better than ever. Celebrate our local culinary heroes. By Cinda Chavich
By David Lennam
24
64
WINE ISLAND
ONE FOOT AT A TIME
Close to home and far from ordinary. An oasis of delectable wines and getaway options are right in our backyard.
Some of the world’s best hiking is right here at home. Discover some of the best gems.
By Joanne Sasvari
By David Lennam
76
84
BERRY GOOD, BERRY BAD
DANCE DELICATELY ON THE EARTH
The Himalayan blackberry has a bad rep, but it is oh, so delicious and a wonderful sign of summer. By Cinda Chavich
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YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2022
Little things matter. Here’s how to take more eco-friendly action at home. By Jennifer Hartley
90
DO TELL Meet farmer Simon O. Fowler of Dan’s Farm & Country Market. By Jennifer Hartley
972 3 G L E N E LG AV E , N O RT H SA A N I C H
UNIQUE OPPORTUNITIES »
N EW L I ST I N G
$16,500,000
$6,990,000
$14,000,000
2908 Fishboat Bay Road, Sooke
1110 Lands End Road, North Saanich BEDS: 4 BATHS: 8 7,434 SQ.FT 1.60 ACRES
BEDS: 5 BATHS: 8 12,214 SQ.FT 2.50 ACRES
Logan Wilson PREC
250.857.0609
UNIQUE OPPORTUNITIES »
Samantha Jensson
250.818.2006
$3,100,000
3895 Tudor Avenue, Saanich
5091 Lochside Drive, Saanich
BEDS: 4 BATHS: 4 4,517 SQ.FT 0.86 ACRES Lisa Williams PREC 250.514.1966
BEDS: 4 BATHS: 5 3,311 SQ.FT 0.19 ACRES Dean Innes 250.686.0279
« U N I Q U E O P P O R T U N I T I E S C O N D O S & TOW N H O M E S » SOLD
$1,799,000
$1,499,000
$1,550,000
$1,199,900
7405 Thornton Heights, Sooke
689 Frayne Road, Mill Bay
409-521 Courtney Street, Victoria
127-2345 Cedar Hill Cross Road, Oak Bay
BEDS: 3 BATHS: 3 3,191 SQ.FT 0.45 ACRES
2.36 ACRE LOT
BEDS: 1 BATHS: 2 826 SQ.FT
BEDS: 2 BATHS: 3 2,298 SQ.FT
John Shin
778.584.1204
Philippe Jolicoeur
778.821.0131
C O N D O S & TOW N H O M E S »
Brayden Klein
250.588.2466
Don St Germain PREC
250.744.7136
« C O N D O S & TOW N H O M E S S I N G L E FA M I LY H O M E S » R EC ENTLY SOLD
$825,000
N EW L ISTIN G
$625,000
314-405 Quebec Street, Victoria BEDS: 2 BATHS: 2 1,087 SQ.FT
Christine Ryan PREC
778.533.3205
SO L D
$599,000
N EW L I ST I N G
$5,180,000
$2,700,000
201-1597 Mortimer Street, Saanich
306-1655 Begbie Street, Victoria
639 Radcliffe Lane, Oak Bay
2717 Queenswood Drive, Saanich
BEDS: 2 BATHS: 2 1,178 SQ.FT
BEDS: 2 BATHS: 1 898 SQ.FT
Alenzo Winters
Kirsten MacLeod 250.686.3385
BEDS: 4 BATHS: 4 3,618 SQ.FT 0.42 ACRES Sean Farrell 250.588.2377
BEDS: 5 BATHS: 2 2,982 SQ.FT 1.26 ACRES Sandy Berry 250-818-8736
250.858.9395
Shaelyn Mattix 250.908.0184
S I N G L E FA M I LY H O M E S » REC E N T LY SO L D
$1,980,000
NEW LISTING
$1,875,000
$1,948,880
10393 Allbay Road, Sidney
3511 Burns Road, Courtenay
BED: 2 BATHS: 2 1,946 SQ.FT 0.19 ACRES Andy Stephenson PREC 250.532.0888
BEDS: 7 BATHS: 4 3,510 SQ.FT 5.01 ACRES
$1,680,000
425 Pelican Drive, Colwood
1220 Starlight Grove, Sooke
BEDS: 4 BATHS: 3 3,626 SQ.FT 0.32 ACRES
D’Arcy Harris
250.686.2375
Kris Ricci
778.966.7441
BEDS: 2 BATHS: 2 1,900 SQ.FT 1.16 ACRES Spencer Cao 250.732.2267
Connect with your local experts.
Alenzo Winters
Andrew Maxwell
Victoria 250.380.3933
Andy Stephenson
Beth Hayhurst
Brad Maclaren
Salt Spring Island 250.537.1778
Brayden Klein
Brett Cooper
Vancouver 604.632.3300
Christine Ryan
D’Arcy Harris
Dave Hatt
West Vancouver 604.922.6995
Dean Innes
Don St Germain
White Rock 604.385.1840
Georgia Wiggins
Glynis MacLeod
Whistler 604.932.3388
Grace Shin
Harley Shim
Jacob Garrett
Kelowna 250.469.9547
John Shin
Kersten St Germain
Sun Peaks 250.578.7773
Move Beyond Your Expectations S O T H E B Y S R E A L T Y. C A 74 0 5 T H O R N T O N H E I G H T S , S O O K E
« UNIQUE OPPORTUNITIES N EW L ISTIN G
PENDING
$2,900,000
$2,995,000
4570 Bissenden Place, Saanich BEDS: 4 BATHS: 4 2,959 SQ.FT 1.25 ACRES
Georgia Wiggins PREC 250.415.2500
Tim Wiggins 250.415.2811
$1,875,000
$2,100,000
8763 Beaumaris Place, North Saanich
6922 Lochside Drive, Central Saanich
9723 Glenelg Avenue, North Saanich
BEDS: 3 BATHS: 5 5,039 SQ.FT 0.35 ACRES Andrew Maxwell 250.213.2104
5,435 SQ.FT 2.71 ACRES
BEDS: 3 BATHS: 3 2,708 SQ.FT 0.85 ACRES
Peter Crichton
Glynis MacLeod PREC
250.889.4000
250.661.7232
« C O N D O S & TOW N H O M E S NEW LISTING
RECENTLY SOLD
$1,099,000
NEW LISTING
RECENTLY SOLD
$950,000
$1,049,900
$839,900
405-732 Cormorant Street, Victoria
501-1033 Cook Street, Victoria
16-1030 Hulford Street, Saanich
2111 Greenhill Rise, Langford
BEDS: 2 BATHS: 2 1,273 SQ.FT
BEDS: 2 BATHS: 2 1,165 SQ.FT
BEDS: 2 DEN: 1 BATHS: 3 1,576 SQ.FT Marnie Ross 250.514.4363
BEDS: 3 BATHS: 4 1,868 SQ.FT 0.05 ACRES
Nico Grauer
250.228.3858
PREC
Brett Cooper
250.858.6524
PREC
Michael Tourigny
250.514.6457
« S I N G L E FA M I LY H O M E S
$2,600,000
$2,599,000
2275 Nicklaus Drive, Langford
$2,450,000
2024 Troon Court, Langford
BEDS: 7 BATHS: 8 5,884 SQ.FT 0.18 ACRES
BEDS: 4 BATHS: 4 4,280 SQ.FT 0.33 ACRES
Robyn Wildman
250.818.8522
SO L D
SO L D
NEW PRICE
Brad Maclaren PREC
250.727.5448
$2,300,000
9544 Ardmore Drive, North Saanich
1584 Rockland Avenue, Victoria
BEDS: 3 BATHS: 3 2,900 SQ.FT 0.70 ACRES Thomas Goodman 250.415.6675
BEDS: 4 BATHS: 4 3,649 SQ.FT 0.19 ACRES Dave Hatt 250.888.0204
« S I N G L E FA M I LY H O M E S NEW LISTING
RECENTLY SOLD
$1,375,000
BEDS: 4 BATHS: 3 2,842 SQ.FT 0.25 ACRES
Grace Shin
Kirsten MacLeod
Toronto
$835,000
$1,224,999
102 Dorothy Lane, View Royal
250.893.9976
Kris Ricci
Lisa Williams
Paris
Logan Wilson
Marnie Ross
New York
Michael Tourigny
6920 East Sooke Road, Sooke
960 Cowichan Street, Victoria
1573 Nimpkish Place, Duncan
BEDS: 3 BATHS: 2 1,989 SQ.FT 0.15 ACRES Beth Hayhurst 250.896.0766
BEDS: 4 BATHS: 3 2,205 SQ.FT 0.15 ACRES
Nico Grauer
Tokyo
SO L D
NEW LISTING
Peter Crichton
Harley Shim
Philippe Jolicoeur
Hong Kong
Robyn Wildman
403.313.6683
Samantha Jensson
Montréal
Sandy Berry
Sean Farrell
Shaelyn Mattix
Spencer Cao
BEDS: 1 BATHS: 1 732 SQ.FT 0.66 ACRES Tom de Cosson 250.858.5841
Thomas Goodman
Tim Wiggins
Tom de Cosson
S OT H E B YS R E A LT Y.C A
Independently Owned and Operated. E.&O.E.: This information is from sources which we deem reliable, but must be verified by prospective Purchasers and may be subject to change or withdrawal. PREC is Personal Real Estate Corporation.
EDITOR’S NOTE
Robyn Wildman Top rated in Customer Service Multiple MLS® Award Winner Why work with Robyn? “Robyn has a depth of knowledge that she shared as the market was changing. She is very quick to respond to questions. I appreciated her ability to provide information looking at all options and share her expertise. I sold and bought and Robyn was calm, confident and knowledgeable. I recommend her and would go to her again.” - S.B.
BUYING OR SELLING REAL ESTATE CALL
250.818.8522 rwildman@sothebysrealty.ca robynwildman.com
sothebysrealty.ca Sotheby’s International Realty Canada, Independently Owned and Operated.
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YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2022
EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY
B
eing a Victorian feels like Thanksgiving every day. We live in the land of perpetual abundance with talented people who grow and harvest it. Then there are those who create culinary masterpieces from the bounty, nourishing both our bodies and souls. Our Island winemakers fill our cups with quality and offer the opportunity to visit their wineries to learn more about their magic. All this in our own backyard. Jennifer Hartley, Editor There is no better way to recognize the gifted editor@ yammagazine.com chefs and makers in our community than with the YAM Best Restaurant Awards, our annual event celebrating the top culinary talent in Victoria, judged by a panel of independent industry experts. And the People’s Choice Awards is a critical component. (Thank you to everyone who voted!) How exciting it is to be able to hold the awards again after the unexpected two-year hiatus. A special thank you to all the judges who donated their time to the voting process, and to Joanne Sasvari and “As you are out and Cinda Chavich who made it all happen. about, I hope you will As you are out and about, I hope take advantage of the you will take advantage of the abundance of restaurants abundance of restaurants and the dizzying variety of cuisines ready to and the dizzying variety be experienced first-hand. of cuisines ready to be There is so much going on in our community, and as we embrace experienced first-hand.” summer, soaking up the season, I plan on exploring the outdoors, following some fantastic hiking suggestions (see page 64). Enjoying beaches and the sun (safely), basking in the richness of the beauty and the land around us are also on the agenda. I can’t wait to pick wild berries — a fun summer activity I know many of us are eager to once again experience (see page 76). The explosions of summer colour are a feast for the senses, and provide inspiration for decorating my new home (see page 30). We are so fortunate to live where we do and hearing about some of the horrors of our world makes it all the more poignant that we live in paradise. Gratitude is the overwhelming emotion that comes to mind, and it is such a powerful motivator. I have found it popping into the big picture, of course, but it is also affecting how I live day to day. Pinch me. I have said it before, and I will say it again and to all of us; let’s toast summer and all that it brings to our beautiful city.
A journey well shared is a journey well enjoyed. Thank you for joining us on our adventure! Please come in as we celebrate our first year at our fabulous Yates Street location.
S A M E G R E AT S E R V I C E • S A M E T R U S T E D Q U A L I T Y S A M E U N I Q U E F I N D S • S A M E C O M P L I M E N TA R Y D E S I G N S E R V I C E S
Some things just shouldn’t change.
564 Yates St | 250.386.7632 | luxevictoria.ca Free one-hour parking right across the street in the Bastion Square (Yates Street) parkade
Live beautifully
VICTORIA’S LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE
PUBLISHERS Lise Gyorkos, Georgina Camilleri EDITOR Jennifer Hartley DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Jeffrey Bosdet PRODUCTION MANAGER Jennifer Kühtz DIGITAL MARKETING MANAGER Amanda Wilson LEAD GRAPHIC DESIGNER Janice Hildybrant ASSOCIATE GRAPHIC DESIGNERS Jo-Ann Loro, Caroline Segonnes MARKETING COORDINATOR Claire Villaraza ADVERTISING COORDINATOR Rebecca Juetten ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES Deana Brown, Cynthia Hanischuk, Brenda Knapik FASHION EDITOR Janine Metcalfe CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Cinda Chavich, David Lennam, Danielle Pope, Joanne Sasvari CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER D asha Armstrong, Hélène Cyr, Jody Beck PROOFREADER Paula Marchese CONTRIBUTING AGENCIES Alamy p. 15, 63, 68; Getty Images p. 24, 38, 64, 80, 84, 85, 86; Stocksy p. 38, 64, 76, 77, 78
GENERAL INQUIRIES info@yammagazine.com LETTERS TO THE EDITOR letters@yammagazine.com TO SUBSCRIBE TO YAM subscriptions@yammagazine.com
523 Fisgard Street | 250-382-4424 | fantanvictoria.com
ADVERTISING INQUIRIES sales@yammagazine.com ONLINE yammagazine.com FACEBOOK facebook.com/YAMmagazine TWITTER twitter.com/YAMmagazine INSTAGRAM @yam_magazine
Come get your
ON THE COVER Foraged local morels and roasted asparagus with savoury Riesling zabaglione and fennel pollen, from Nowhere *A Restaurant. See page 38. Photo by Jeffrey Bosdet.
Published by PAGE ONE PUBLISHING 580 Ardersier Road, Victoria, B.C. V8Z 1C7 T 250-595-7243 info@pageonepublishing.ca pageonepublishing.ca Printed in British Columbia by Mitchell Press. Ideas and opinions expressed in this publication do not necessarily reflect the views of Page One Publishing Inc. or its affiliates; no official endorsement should be inferred. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement, and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not the publisher. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in all or part, in any form — printed or electronic — without the express permission of the publisher. The publisher cannot be held responsible for unsolicited manuscripts and photographs. Canadian Publications Mail Product Sales Agreement #41295544
1023 Fort Street, Victoria, BC
ADVERTISE IN YAM MAGAZINE YAM is Victoria’s lifestyle magazine, connecting readers to the distinctive lifestyle and authentic luxury of the West Coast. For advertising info, please call 250-595-7243 or email sales@yammagazine.com.
250.920.7653 M-Sat 10-6 | Sun 11-5 heartandsoleshoes.ca contact@heartandsoleshoes.ca
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YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2022
BC
HERE + NOW
SUMMER SIPPING Nothing says summer like an ice cream float! For a boozy float, try combining blackberries and gin (for an extra hit of blackberry, try Stillhead Wild Blackberry Gin) with a local vanilla ice cream from 49 Below or Betterwith. Sip away!
Blackberry Gin Fizz Float
JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE
• 1 pint blackberries • 2 Tbsp granulated sugar • 1 Tbsp water • 1/2 cup chopped mint leaves • 8 oz gin • 1/4 cup fresh lime juice • 24 oz ginger ale • Ice • Vanilla ice cream Heat the blackberries, sugar and water in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Smash the berries while they heat, and cook until fairly thick, about 10 minutes. Strain the blackberry mixture through a mesh sieve into a small bowl, pressing out as much juice as possible. Refrigerate juice for at least 10 minutes. For each drink, fill a cocktail shaker with 2 tablespoons of the blackberry juice, 2 tablespoons mint leaves, 2 ounces gin, 1 tablespoon lime juice and a handful of ice. Shake 5 or 6 times, or until the drink is ice cold. Strain into a tall glass, top with 6 ounces of ginger ale, and stir gently. Once all of the drinks are made, top each with a big scoop (or two!) of ice cream. Makes 4 floats.
YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2022
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HERE + NOW
To the beach! Pack your tote with these summertime essentials.
Hydrate in style The latest water bottle technology is a self-cleaning water purification system, eliminating up to 99 per cent of of bio-contaminants. Its insulation will keep your water chilly all day long.
In the bag Start your beach odyssey with a summery tote. Natural straw has a simple sophistication, and, when combined with leather handles, is sturdy enough to carry all your gear.
LARQ Bottle PureVis, available at Hudson’s Bay or Sport Chek
Throw down Lay out and relax in comfort on soft terry velour cotton. The 59-inchdiameter Skye Round Towel is big enough for two and the limited-edition pattern adds extra flair. Skye Round towel from Tofino Towel Co.
Straw tote from Banana Republic
Peeper protection Pastel colours, such as pinks, baby blues and greens, bold shapes and statement frames are all trending, including angular and cat’s eye. Retro is the new now with oversized 70s style, too. Do look for polarized lenses. They offer glare reduction and clarity — necessary for long days near the water. Lulu Guinness Honeysuckle Gingham sunglasses; brand carried by Eye Etiquette
Summer pageturner An extraordinary novel of art, time, love and plague that takes you on a journey from Vancouver Island in 1912 to a dark colony on the moon 500 years later. Find it at your local bookseller
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YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2022
Don’t forget the sunscreen Some of the ingredients in traditional creams can be toxic to marine life. Mineral sunscreen is an ocean-friendly option that you can feel good about slathering on. Go for the high SPF factor. Made-in-Canada Just Sun all-natural mineral sunscreen, 30 SPF (justsun.ca)
Up your golf game Hit the links in style. The 2022 golf season is all about colour and gadgets.
This year’s looks are bold: blue, orange, yellow and pinstripes are all gracing the greens. Look for classic pleated styles or fully lined skorts with pockets. Kandini brand available at shop.greenteegolfshop.com
Manito Luxury Silk Bedding & Sleepwear
pillows | duvets | covers | sheets Great selection from Daniadown, Revelle, Manito, Cuddle Down, Brunelli, Pokoloko, Laundress and more!
sweetdreamsboutique.com 250 383 6133 636 Broughton St, Victoria
250 656 0510 2492 Beacon Ave, Sidney
Created during COVID and made in Canada, this personal, portable ball cleaner in your golf bag can speed up the game and improve scores. Clean Flight golf ball washer from cleanflightgolf.com
GPS golf smartwatches are stylish on and off the course. While keeping track of golf statistics can be a good (or bad!) thing, stats do make for great après-golf conversation. Approach S42 smartwatch from garmin.com
YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2022
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HERE + NOW International designers are using juicy colours and plenty of layers in their jewelry pieces this summer.
Bold + Beautiful effects on the metal, such as oxidizing the material.” Artina’s specializes in Canadian jewelry, and one of the wonderful features about our homegrown designers is the use of highquality materials to create unique pieces. “What really makes Canadian artists so different is the strong connection to the artist’s culture and their unique vision,” Zakreski says. “It’s very important for us to support and present Canadian artists, and we believe people should also want to support artists in Canada. We want our jewelry to reflect all Canadians no matter what their age, culture, background or gender is.” Top of the page: Sterling silver and glass Prescott necklace by Canadian designer Elizabeth Burry; Left: Copper Hummingbird bracelet by Kwakwaka’wakw Nation artist Don Lancaster. Hummingbird designs often include dogwood flowers, like the one in sterling silver on this bracelet. All available at Artina’s Hand Crafted Canadian Jewellery.
MARIE LICHTENBERG/THREADSSTYLING.COM
Some of the jewelry trends this summer include sparkly chokers, arm cuffs, chunky, bright-coloured necklaces, chains — and lots of layers. Lera Zakreski, owner of Artina’s Hand Crafted Canadian Jewellery, says that colourful gemstones and Swarovski crystals are also big trends this season. Metals are always popular, too, but “people generally switch it up and pay closer attention to the overall look of their outfit, and what best complements their skin tone, rather than sticking to just one particular metal nowadays,” Zakreski says. “However, silver and titanium are especially fun to play with because artists can create so many different
Splish, splash A day in the sun calls for a jump in the water! Here are a few of our favourite spots to take a refreshing dip. Sooke Potholes, an outdoor treasure, are less than an hour from Victoria. The rock formations carved into the bedrock along the Sooke River provide incredible swimming opportunities. The crystal-clear, aqua green water will remind you of the tropics. There are waterfalls, too. Be forewarned, though: the water can be chilly! Esquimalt Lagoon Beach offers some wonderful birdwatching on the lagoon side of the causeway, while the other side has a stunning view of Mount Baker and long stretches of sandy beach.
Sooke Potholes
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YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2022
All-accessible spots Ross Bay Beach, on Dallas Road, has a wheelchair-accessible ramp and a
Ross Bay Beach mobility mat
LORNE DANIEL
Elk/Beaver Lake delivers a traditional freshwater swimming experience. Paddlers, swimmers and canoes all share the spaces, and the water is less frigid than the ocean. @CARLA KIEFER
ARTINA’S PHOTOS: @IVAMARIIA.PHOTO
Summer style feels more relaxed, and with that comes the opportunity to accessorize with flair.
summer mobility beach mat to improve access. The waterfront trail from Ross Bay to Ogden Point Breakwater is also accessible.
YAM
Contest Alert!
Hot tubbing
HOT TUB BOAT VICTORIA
If the chill of a cool dip is not inviting, consider warmer waters. Hot tubs are the perfect stress busters; they promote relaxation, help calm sore muscles — and are just plain fun! Now you can have the hot tub experience while exploring the Upper Harbour or Gorge Waterway in a floating hot tub, complete with snacks, beverages and a few friends.
Put Your Feet Up
G I V E AWAY
One lucky winner will receive this Canvas Renfrew outdoor patio chair and ottoman set from Canadian Tire. Enjoy the warmth of the sun or the cool evening breeze on this cozy sectional chair. Pamper your feet on the thick cushion of the comfortable ottoman. The all-weather black wicker and grey UV-resistant fabric cushions are water and stain resistant. A great addition to any outdoor space! ($450.00 value)
Go hot tubbing at Hot Tub Boat Victoria.
Enter to win at yammagazine.com. Contest closes August 26, 2022. Good luck!
Beat the heat with Part Two’s beautiful collection of skirts, dresses, and lightweight knits to keep you covered while staying cool.
Our collection of bras from wire-free, full-coverage, strapless, or a little something special. We have something for everyone, for every occasion.
FIT YOUR LIFESTYLE • ELEVATE YOUR EVERYDAY MODEN & MODEN ESSENTIALS 2418 & 2416 Beacon Avenue, Sidney | 250.655.0774 | modenboutique.com
YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2022
17
TASTES + TRENDS
By Cinda Chavich
Fire it Up!
Salad Days
Move over grills and smokers — the backyard pizza oven is all the rage these days, and our favourite chefs are taking it outside with their own customized wood-fired ovens.
When the temperature rises, a salad supper is in order, and there are some easy ways to dress it up, thanks to some of our creative local chefs and purveyors. ■ Chef Castro Boateng’s new HOB sauces include his Curry Vanilla Dressing, with mild Jamaican curry and notes of vanilla bean, that’s perfect on a tropical salad with prawns, avocadoes, mango and mixed greens. ■ Or look for Wild Mountain’s Organic Vinaigrettes, made with honey from chef Oliver Kienast’s family farm in the Okanagan. They come in two unique flavours — Fig Leaf & Honey and Malted Apple & Honey — the former infused with fig leaves for subtle notes of coconut and vanilla. ■ Stubborn Chef Ginger Dressing — simply made with ginger, onion, garlic, rice vinegar, soy sauce and canola oil — adds easy Asian flair to summer salads and marinades.
MAX ANKERSEN
■ And what would a good salad dressing be without mustard? Look for coarse ground mustards from Marie Takahashi’s Two Crows Craft Foods, in original, dill, lavender, roasted garlic and pickled jalapeño flavours, to whisk into vinaigrettes or add to your mayonnaise dressings for potato salad and slaw! Pizza at Wild Mountain Food & Drink
MELANIE WITT
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ou can grab a seat around the new brick oven on the patio at Wild Mountain Food & Drink in Sooke and watch all of the action as the chefs fire their local, farm-to-table creations, from organic sourdough bread to seared pork loin and crispy potatoes, fire-roasted vegetables, plus creative pizzas, topped with housemade charcuterie and wild and foraged ingredients. The big brick-and-stone oven is a real showpiece, artfully constructed by local stone masons Swift Masonry, with a hand-forged steel oven door and tools created by Leechtown Blacksmith Co. Even the flour is local — the restaurant uses organic local grains milled in Metchosin at Nootka Rose Milling Company. With an ocean view over the Sooke Harbour, this is outdoor patio dining as it should be. And if you find yourself on Galiano Island, the outdoor wood oven behind the famed Pilgrimme Restaurant fuels chef Jesse McCleery’s summer project, Charmer Pizza. The naturally leavened sourdough pizza is topped with B.C. ingredients (think Smits & Co.w goat Gouda, Pilgrimme bacon and fermented garlic scapes; or Kale Butter, Oyama Sausage Co.’s Nduja and Kootenay Alpine Cheese Company’s Alpindon). The chef finds space among the embers to sear meats and roast vegetables for Pilgrimme’s Galiano Island’s seasonal forest-to-table plates, too. Charmer Pizza
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Seaside Flavour Kove Ocean Foods Sea Spice is the first product to try from Cascadia Seaweed, a large-scale kelp farming company with seven seaweed farms around Vancouver Island, and partnerships with six First Nations. The new vegan product, reminiscent of Japanese furikake blends, is a combination of sugar kelp flakes, nutritional yeast, white and black sesame seeds, garlic, onion, poppyseeds and smoked sea salt. It adds a savoury boost to almost anything — delicious to shake over popcorn, avocado toast, breakfast eggs, fish or rice. Look for new sriracha and lemon flavours, too. Find Kove Sea Spice
at Pepper’s Foods, Lifestyle Markets, Red Barn and other local grocers. Or look for regular and smoked kelp flakes from Naas Foods in Tofino, a small business led by friends Jordan White and Stevie Dennis, an Ahousaht member of the Keltsmaht First Nations. The partners wild harvest the husmin (bull kelp) by hand, then quickly dry, smoke and package it in tins in their Tofino facility. They sell raw kelp to local chefs as well as other seaweed products at their Tofino shop or online, including whole dried kelp and frozen kelp cubes for smoothies.
Whet Your Appetite Find some tasty new treats in Cowichan Bay.
RENEE ROBBINS
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hef Mara Jernigan, one of the Island’s original Slow Food founders, has landed a new gig on the waterfront at little Leeward Coastal Café, a project from True Grain Organic Craft Bakery in the heart of Cowichan Bay Village. It’s a small space with a big local impact, with daily breakfast and lunch featuring True Grain breads and pastries, and “aperitivo” with drinks and small plates until 7 p.m., featuring lots of Island ingredients. Have the breakfast sandwich or ham and cheese croissant with Berryman Farm’s ham, baked oatmeal with Cobble Hill saskatoon berry compote and a pot of Westholme tea to start your day, or pick up a Parisien sandwich with brie and tomato on a True Grain baguette and a mason jar of crème caramel from the takeout Leeward Coastal Café window. Dine inside or outside on the sheltered “leeward” deck, for daily soups and sandwiches — think grilled cheese with organic Quebec cheddar or Cowichan chicken with chipotle cream cheese and caramelized onions — or just stop in for a pastry and coffee. If a more upscale affair is in order, The Masthead Restaurant is where Chef Jeff Keenliside is now happily ensconced behind the stoves. The long-time Victoria chef (formerly at Oak Bay Marina, Café Brio, Vis-à-Vis) brings both his skill and passion for sustainable Island ingredients to bear on a new menu that includes starters like panseared Pacific scallops with cauliflower purée and fried capers, The Masthead Restaurant’s beautiful houseJeff Keenliside (right) and smoked salmon Renee Robbins boards and mains ranging from Cowichan wild mushroom risotto to bison rib-eye. Keenliside has gathered a small team of top talent, including chefs Joel Peck and Dan Hudson, and will offer daily features and tasting menus, showcasing seasonal foods. The wine list reflects the local bounty, too, with the house red and white both from nearby Unsworth Vineyards. Set in an historic white clapboard building (a circa 1868 hotel), with a covered veranda overlooking the fishing boats at the dock, this is dining that’s worth the drive.
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IN PERSON
Paula Callahan: artist; nurse; member of the Nobel Peace Prize-winning team, Médecins Sans Frontières; humanitarian. Her art comes from lived experiences of the horrors of war.
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The Art of War SOME KIDS RUN AWAY TO JOIN THE CIRCUS. PAULA CALLAHAN RAN AWAY TO JOIN A WAR. EXCEPT SHE WASN’T REALLY A KID AND SHE DIDN’T GO TO FIGHT. By David Lennam | Photos by Jeffrey Bosdet
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aula Callahan was stretcher. There were a 25-year-old nurse always more wounded. when she left her “It was like a massive native Victoria. After four plane crash every day,” years at Royal Jubilee she says. “I remember Hospital, she bought a literally sloshing one-way ticket to Ethiopia around in blood on the where there was constant floor. That feeling of war and famine. viscousness. And slipping “The only reason I in it.” got into nursing was to No movie can capture go to the third world. I the drama or horror she just wanted to go help experienced. She was people.” arrested by the President Arriving in Addis of Liberia, convicted Ababa with a suitcase warlord Charles Taylor, packed with naivety and and assumed execution idealism, a determined would follow. Horrific Callahan started knocking images of impaled heads, on doors — Red Cross, bowels spewed around World Vision, all the for intimidation regularly international players surrounded her. Then — only to be told she there was the irony of “Where is She Going?” 30 x 48, mixed media couldn’t just show up in driving in vehicles Africa and start to work. with machine guns She had to sign up through her own country. on the back “shooting people so I can get to But Médecins Sans Frontières (Doctors work to save the people that they just shot.” Without Borders) invited her in. There was no end to the human torture she “It was a fluke that there was a mad, mad witnessed. measles epidemic in the Ogaden desert between Callahan returned to Victoria 15 years later, Somalia and Ethiopia, and they needed people.” part of the team that was awarded the Nobel Almost simultaneously, a devastating civil war Peace Prize. But broken. Hurt. Unable to return erupted in neighbouring Somalia, and Callahan to normal. Closed off about revealing what was sent to the front lines. she’d gone through. Few in town have heard the “They couldn’t get anyone to go there and stories. I said I’d go,” she says. “Somalia was such a “Coming home was just as terrifying as going dangerous war, building-to-building combat. I had to war. I knew I couldn’t contact my old friends. no idea. If I had known, I would never have gone.” They would never understand (what I’d been On the way from the airport in Kismayo, through). I paid a huge price. I came home in Callahan recalls seeing mounds of starving, rough shape. dying people, mostly children, lining the road Any regrets? into town. It was 1990, and her 10-year odyssey “Stayed too long at the fair.” of staying alive while keeping others alive had She threw herself into a difficult job working just begun. for the federal government as a medical It was an experience that would take her adjudicator, deciding on whether applicants to all the hot spots: Ethiopia, Somalia, Sudan, should receive disability benefits. Liberia, Libya, Afghanistan and Rwanda (which Sometimes her passion has been she won’t talk about). Callahan worked as an misinterpreted as intensity. She’s whip smart, assistant surgeon in makeshift hospitals in doesn’t suffer fools and stubbornly stands bombed-out embassies and hotels, sleeping behind noble principles gleaned from a decade when she could, sometimes on a vacant of observing humanity at its worst.
A little bit about... Erin Smith
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Originally from Ontario • An avid runner with her dog, Rugby • Was a competitive gymnast for almost two decades “Moving to Vancouver Island has been one of the best decisions I’ve ever made. I’ve fallen in love with the lifestyle, people and scenery. The island provides so many culinary treasures to explore, and for me, there’s nothing quite like pairing incredible food and fine wine.”
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Callahan admits she’s out of fashion with the price of real estate, or vegetables, or bike lanes or any of the minutiae of workaday lives in our community. She spends most of her time alone. Choosing an introvert’s solitude to hide in her downtown high-rise cave, as she refers to it. Making art is making the hurt go away. She began painting in 2007, but only became serious about it three years ago when she started to sell her large abstract acrylics. The new Tofino Gallery of Contemporary Art was the first to take on Callahan’s work. Gallerist and owner of the Tofino Beach Collective Leah McDiarmid understands where these paintings come from. “Paula paints from her gut, the place where fear, rage and love reside. As such, her work is primal, sensual and absolutely visceral. Paula’s paintings reveal themselves as a personal narrative, a story of pain and reconciliation.” It’s as if her wounds run with the blood of paint, informed by her time on the front lines, times of atrocities and horrors, times that have embedded in her mind like shrapnel. Callahan peppers our conversation, referencing the titles of her paintings, tying them into scenes she’s unable to forget, giving each a story that’s not immediately apparent to the casual eye. “I have a lot of rage,” she says. “I try to go into a cathartic mind space and just put paint down. Almost every single time, something comes out of it that reminds me …” Her voice trails off. “Every single piece comes from my soul, and it’s always a traumatic image. It’s never flowers,” she deadpans. I ask if she still has nightmares. “Yeah, of course I do … but my worst nightmares were never as bad as my reality — what I’d see, opening my eyes, whenever I could get any sleep. I would wake up and realize I’m not really dreaming. And it’s worse than your nightmare. You’re terrorized realizing what you’re going to witness.” Would she have given it all up to have peace today? “Up until three or four years ago I would’ve said no, but now I’m so f*cking tired, and I feel like I want to be rescued. I really want to be rescued.”
DAVE VAN PHOTOGRAPHY 2002-2022
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Wine Island THIS SUMMER, TAKE THE WINDING COUNTRY ROADS AND DISCOVER ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST EXCITING WINE REGIONS, RIGHT HERE AT HOME. By Joanne Sasvari
Enrico Winery basks in a warm, sunny Cowichan Valley microclimate that draws happy crowds to its popular tasting room.
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rocky wedge of land right on the edge of where grapes can thrive, Vancouver Island may seem like an unlikely place to grow wine, or at least good wine. But the fresh, crisp, delicately aromatic vintages produced here are exactly what the rest of the world is craving, and what so many climate-battered wine regions can no longer make. That makes the Island one of the most promising and enticing wine regions on the planet. So while Bordeaux or Napa may beckon, this summer of high gas prices and relentless airport lineups is the perfect time to explore what’s in our own backyard. What you will discover is not one, but several, mini wine regions where country roads wind through beautiful scenery to small, charming family-owned operations. The ocean, mountains and forested parks are never far away. Neither is exceptional farmand-forest-to-table dining that proves the old adage, “what grows together, goes together.” Beautiful scenery, great food, fantastic wine, no flights or ferries involved? Could there be a better way to spend a summer vacation? Here’s how to start planning your Vancouver Island wine escape.
Cowichan Valley
True winemaking began in the Cowichan Valley in the 1980s with the government-funded Duncan Project, which found Pinot Gris, Auxerrois and Ortega to be promising varieties.
Although all of Vancouver Island is considered a single wine region, the Cowichan Valley is a sub-region unto itself, and the best place to start discovering Island wines. It is where the first vines were planted, where the greatest investment has been made, and where you will find the biggest concentration of wineries. Besides, it’s right on Victoria’s doorstep, so you could easily make it a day trip, if you really wanted to. The Cowichan Valley wine region is just south of Duncan and north of the Malahat, in a sheltered growing environment that protects vines from frost and storms. The growing season is long and warm and dry; it’s not hot enough to ripen big reds but perfect for delicate whites, and for visitors who want to explore in comfort. The first wines made here were crafted from loganberries in the 1920s. True winemaking began in the 1980s with the government-funded Duncan Project, which found Pinot Gris, Auxerrois and Ortega to be promising varieties.
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As the climate has warmed, more and more grapes are beginning to thrive, including Burgundian Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Several wineries also produce a signature, proseccostyle sparkling wine known as “Charme de l’Île,” perfect for sipping on a sunny patio. There are currently 14 wineries in the valley, each with its own charm. The best known are Blue Grouse Estate Winery, Averill Creek Vineyard and Unsworth Vineyards, which all produce a range of styles including the exceptionally silky, well-structured Pinot Noir that is rapidly becoming the valley’s calling card. Enrico Winery might just have the liveliest tasting room in all of B.C. Zanatta Winery is the place
to go for refined, traditionalmethod bubbles. VenturiSchulze Vineyards is a must for its luscious dessert wines and Modena-style balsamic vinegar. The village of Cowichan Bay makes a good base for exploring. The conveniently located Oceanfront Suites at Cowichan Bay offers lovely views across the bay and is just a short stroll from boutiques, bakeries and restaurants. But there are B&Bs scattered throughout the region and several restaurants are taking advantage of the valley’s exceptional produce. Among them, The Lakehouse at Shawnigan Lake is the place to go for elevated comfort food and the Restaurant at Unsworth Vineyards for special occasions and wine-friendly cuisine. Above: Best known for white wines, the Island is also growing more black grapes like these from Enrico Winery. Left: Blue Grouse Estate Winery overlooks its sustainably farmed vineyards in the Cowichan Valley.
Up Island
TIP!
DEREK FORD
Call ahead, and, if you can, make an appointment for your tasting.
IF YOU GO ... Before you begin any wine trip in B.C., be sure to download the Wines of BC Explorer app, which is packed with
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useful information, including winery addresses, maps, special events and even tasting notes and suggested food pairings. (explorer. winebc.com) Crowds this summer are likely to be big, but Island wineries are small. Call ahead, and, if you can, make an
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appointment for your tasting. Same with hotels and meals — book ahead where possible to avoid disappointment. And because staffing is still tight, be prepared to exercise patience if things take longer than planned. At least you can enjoy another glass of
wine while you wait. Tasting etiquette means you should sniff, swirl, sip and spit. That keeps your palate fresh and your mind clear. And please don’t drink and drive — if you don’t have a designated driver, leave the car at the hotel and take a taxi or tour instead.
The further north you travel, the harder it is for grapes to survive — the 50th parallel of latitude, which passes through Campbell River, is considered the absolute outer limit for Vitis vinifera. Yet a number of sun-soaked microclimates allow grapes to thrive in places like Nanaimo and Comox, adding to their vibrant and evolving food and drink culture. Nanaimo, for many years, was best known as a rugged mill town, its busy ferry terminal making it the gateway to the Island’s northern and West Coast communities.
In Comox, longer days make it surprisingly conducive for ripening grapes, especially on certain sun-drenched, south-facing slopes. But now it’s developing a dynamic culinary scene, thanks in part to the world-class culinary arts program at Vancouver Island University, a growing number of farm-fed restaurants, and several breweries and distilleries. Two boutique wineries, Chateau Wolff Estates Winery and Vineyard and Millstone Estate Winery, produce wines of promising quality in beautifully bucolic settings that seem about a million miles away from Nanaimo’s industrial past. Comox is even closer to the margins of an ideal grape-growing climate, but its longer days make it surprisingly conducive for ripening grapes, especially on certain sun-drenched, south-facing slopes. Both 40 Knots Winery and Beaufort Vineyard & Estate Winery combine sustainability, tradition and experimentation to create delicious, cool climate wines that go perfectly with the local seafood. This is, of course, the heart of B.C.’s shellfish aquaculture industry, and few things are better than slurping a dozen Baynes Sound oysters alongside a glass of local Pinot Gris. Plus there are lovely places to stay, like the Kingfisher Oceanside Resort and the Old House Hotel, both of which also boast excellent spas.
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THE GULF ISLANDS
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ake a short ferry ride and hop over to the Gulf Islands for a taste of some of B.C.’s smallest and most ridiculously charming wineries. Three of them can be found on Salt Spring Island: Garry Oaks Estate Winery, Kutatás Wines and Salt Spring Vineyards They produce cool climate whites along with a small amount of fine Pinot Noir.
Left: In Comox, Beaufort Vineyard & Estate Winery is overlooked by its namesake mountain range. Above: Pinot Noir grapes ready for harvest at Invinity Sparkling Wine House in Saanich. Below: The grand Church & State Wines in Saanich is ideal for events of all sizes.
Here on the Island, not every wine-country journey demands an overnight stay. You could, in fact, just skip out to the Saanich Peninsula for an afternoon of wine tasting at any one of a halfa-dozen local wineries. You could also add excellent cider, beer and spirits to your tasting schedule while you’re here, then stop for lunch, visit a farm market and graze happily through
bubbles and doesn’t have a tasting room. There are others, too, including tiny, family-owned wineries like Rathjen Cellars, Symphony Vineyards and The Roost Farm Centre & Highland House Farm Winery. But wherever you go on the Island, someone is growing something delicious to drink. If there isn’t a vine already planted in the ground, someone is almost certainly planning to put one there — and we can’t wait to taste what they grow next.
Garry Oaks Estate Winery on Salt Spring Island
MICHAEL LEVY
Saanich Peninsula
the region. Bring a cooler, and plan to bring home some goodies. The biggest and bestknown of the Saanich wineries is Church & State Wines, which has a sister operation in the Okanagan Valley’s Black Sage Bench. The facility is popular for its special events, and staff here will pour both the bold, powerful Okanagan wines and the lighter, cooler climate Island ones. Invinity Sparkling Wine House, on the other hand, is brand new, produces only
Meanwhile, on Pender Island, Sea Star Vineyard and Winery has developed a cult following for its rosé and other wines. Or head north and discover even more wineries on Hornby, Quadra and Denman Islands.
Sea Star Vineyard and Winery’s rosé
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HOME + LIFESTYLE
AN ELEVATED MID-CENTURY MODERN BUILD BRINGS NEW SHADES TO THE CONCEPT OF HOME. By Danielle Pope | Photos by Jody Beck
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hen Ian Roberts, designer and builder of Flashhouse, first saw the property Tanja Pollock and her family had purchased in the Cadboro Bay area, he immediately envisioned drafting a home with striking modern architecture and mid-century charm. Roberts knew the 1952 bungalow situated on the property was “ready for a crush,” but the lot had plenty of potential for a new open-concept, single-level home with a spacious deck for enjoying Victoria’s weather. “The house fits with the established neighbourhood and emphasizes that mid-century look but is updated for today,” says Roberts. “You’d be surprised how large the house actually is because it presents fairly quietly from the street. The materials, however, are in line with regionally accepted ones — cedar, cement and galvalume fascia that picks up all the colours when the sun is shining or setting.” Colour became a huge part of this build, both to suit Pollock’s love of vivacious shades, and to create Roberts’s design. Using a rotation of mid-century-inspired tones, the home’s striking orange front door hints at the flair to come. Partnered with blonde oak floors, clean white walls and Nordic cabinetry, the contrast is dramatic. Lorin Turner, principal interior designer and head of Zebra Interiors, part of Zebra Group, worked with Pollock on a previous project and joined this one with Roberts to create the interior design of the home.
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“Tanja is not a fan of ornate design or fixtures, so we wanted to bring in a touch of character without adding clutter to the space,” says Turner. Turner’s aim was to find unique areas to add pops of colour without taking over the design. Avoiding chandeliers and pendant lamps that might obscure natural light from the windows, elements like the teal tile backsplash in the kitchen succeed without overwhelming the room. “I absolutely love colour, and I’ve always liked bright colours,” says Pollock. “The laundry room door is a bright pink — I love it. The doors to the boys’ bedrooms are green and orange; I have blue turquoise for my bedroom, and the kitchen has a big orange feature wall, framed by surrounding white walls. It makes me happy. I think colour energizes you and makes you smile, and it battles the Victoria grey.” While Roberts says the colours were client driven, they also became an anchor to the design. With no notable view to focus on, Roberts wanted to create an exterior treatment that provided its own atmosphere, including an outdoor space that would inspire the family to be outside in the area’s generous shoulder seasons — with an extra large Red Balau deck, along with badminton and volleyball areas.
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Title spread: Homeowner Tanja Pollock wanted to enjoy Victoria’s shoulder seasons, so the oversized Red Balau deck expands her living area outdoors. The deck leads to nearby volleyball and badminton courts for family entertainment. Above: The orange door on this home is one of five mid-century-inspired colours designer Ian Roberts works with to add flair to his modern homes. This build features poured concrete slabs at the front that graduate to a one-metre rise (instead of traditional stairs), as well as oxidized steel guards to divide the entry from the lower-level garage. Left: The kitchen’s modern, white cabinetry and countertops are punctuated by the teal tile backsplash to bring a vibrant pop of colour to this space. This partners with an adjacent orange feature wall for a cheery vibe.
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CLIENT: MAYCOCK EYECARE YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2022 PUBLICATION: YAM / DOUGLAS MAGAZINE SHIPPING DATE: MAR 2022; AD SIZE: 4.94” x 9.58”
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SEAFOOD MARKET • FOOD CART • ONLINE STORE
Salmon Pinwheel with Corn & Chimichurri Sauce SERVES 2
• 375g wild B.C. salmon, pin bones & skin removed • 1 Tbsp olive oil • 1 cup finely chopped leek • 1 ear of corn, kernels cut from the cob • ¼ cup panko • ¼ cup chimichurri sauce, plus more to garnish • 1 tsp (or more) kosher salt Chimichurri Sauce: • Packed ½ cup parsley • Packed ½ cup dill • 2 Tbsp capers • ½ tsp chili flakes • Juice of ½ a lemon • 1 Tbsp honey • ¾ cup neutral oil
(canola, grapeseed, etc.)
Put all sauce ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. (Makes more than you will need, but it is so delicious and will keep in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.) To prepare the stuffing, gently heat the olive oil in a medium skillet. Sautée the leeks with 1 tsp of kosher salt until tender, add corn kernels and cook a minute longer. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Once cool, place on a cutting board and rough chop. Return to a bowl and mix with ¼ cup chimichurri and ¼ cup panko. Set filling aside. Take your salmon and “butterfly” your fillet. (See our YouTube video for detailed instructions.) Cover the salmon with a thin layer of the filling and roll into a pinwheel, short end to short end. Tie the pinwheel in two places with butchers twine and cut through the centre creating two pinwheels. Cook on the grill or in the oven at 425°F for 10-12 minutes. Serve with more chimichurri! WILD, SUSTAINABLE, LOCAL, TRACEABILIT Y
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finestatsea.com
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With the vertical lines of the hardwood flooring and deck, morning sunrises create a striking atmosphere against the kitchen’s orange feature wall and midcentury-inspired furniture.
“Tanja has had orange in every home she’s lived in, and for this build she allowed the kids to pick whatever colour doors they wanted for their rooms,” says Roberts. “She wanted to open up her whole house to light and colour, and even make the shadows create their own art.” In Pollock’s previous home, rooms that went unused were a major issue. To address this, Roberts gave Pollock’s twin sons larger rooms and bathrooms, and enhanced the sitting areas, inside and out. The 4,600-square-foot home includes a wall of sliding glass windows off the kitchen to welcome in as much light as possible. Elements of light and colour appear throughout the house’s four bedrooms, five bathrooms, basement media room and living areas. One of Pollock’s favourite features is the built-in library wall next to the fireplace that allows for a tranquil environment for reading with a cup of tea, and hosting her collection of literature and choice antiques. “Tanja is an avid reader, so the bookshelves were essential to this design,” says Roberts.
Pollock is an avid reader, so having a dedicated library and reading room was on her wish list. The full-wall, builtin bookcase was an essential addition for her expansive collection, including lower-level shelving for storing seasonal décor or lesserseen artifacts. The library’s reading nook is adorned by an inset fireplace, warming the room on those grey Victoria days.
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I believe that every customer deserves the best care and service. Whether you’re purchasing a home for the first time, taking out equity from your home for investment or pleasure, or your current mortgage is simply up for renewal, it’s important that you are making an educated buying decision with professional unbiased advice. Jodie has served the local real estate community for over 20 years.
250-885-5738 jodie@modernmortgagegroup.ca www.jodiesmortgages.ca
DLC - Modern Mortgage Group 207-3531 Uptown Blvd. Victoria, BC V8Z 0B9
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This page: In order to create clean lines and maintain spaciousness throughout the home, the design avoided any dangling pendants and instead relied on inset pot lights to brighten the space. Art and colour decorates this home, right down to the playful coat rack hanging by the entry bench. Right: Pollock is a collector of mid-century furniture, with stylistic pieces like this teak credenza adding to the atmosphere of the home. Orange has been a colour featured in every home she’s ever lived in, so it plays a role in accenting the space.
“Because of her collection of heirlooms, midcentury furniture and art, this home has a very eclectic style. Something I often encourage clients is to let their homes grow ‘hair’ — you don’t want to live in a museum. Anything that gets touched needs to have a personable feel to it.” Roberts’s personal success in this build is the exterior of the home — from the poured concrete slabs to the gently graduated incline and the guards made of oxidized steel, designed to weather the west coast climate. For Pollock, the indoor-outdoor living is the perfect match, year round. “I love the sitting room, when we have friends around over the holidays, just sitting by the fire, and I love mornings in the summer, standing in the kitchen with all the light streaming in,” she says. “Having that room open to the deck means I can walk straight out to all that extra space and just enjoy.”
RESOURCES Designer: Ian Roberts, Flashhouse Builder: Flashhouse Interior: Lorin Turner, Zebra Interiors, Zebra Group Framer: Coulas Contracting Plumbing: Good Grade Plumbing and Gas Co. Mechanical: RedBlue Heating & Refrigeration Electrician: Pardell Electric Light fixtures: McLaren Lighting and Gabriel Ross Doors and hardware: Slegg Building Materials and Karmanah Wood Design Windows: Vinyltek and Complete Windows Roofing: A. MacKenzie Roofing Tile: Ricardo Pontedura, Premium Tiling.ca Countertops: Colonial Countertops Plumbing fixtures: Andrew Sheret Flooring: Paul Werthner, Hourigan’s Flooring Landscape design: Bianca Bodley, Biophilia Design Collective Steel and metalwork: Broadwell Metal Company Cladding: Cardinal Carpentry
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YAM
Best Restaurants 2022
It’s time again (finally) to celebrate our city’s chefs and restaurateurs, the people who have kept us safe, sated and sane during this crazy year. Yes, the annual YAM Restaurant Awards are back, a chance to shine a light on some of Victoria’s finest food purveyors and offer our readers a snapshot of what’s happening in the local food scene today. By Cinda Chavich
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Several restaurant owners banded together to create the Bread & Butter Collective, a homegrown support system that’s helped these small businesses share expertise and devise collective solutions to industry challenges. From a customer code of conduct to a reusable takeout container (which customers can return to participating restaurants) program, it’s a shining example of local community collaboration. And with the support of the Victoria Foundation and The Jawl Foundation, some restaurants pitched in to make meals for Victoria’s most vulnerable, from inner city school children to homeless adults. Hats off to Chris Jones of Jones Bar-B-Que for his work coordinating the Boxes of Hope program, and to Calen McNeil of Zambri’s and Big Wheel Burger, for feeding frontline care workers and, with Sam Jones of 2% Jazz, hosting the Bread & Butter Collective podcast to empower the restaurant community. Though we lost some of our favourite restaurants, including OLO and Dobosala Cantina, we gained new ones, like Niche Grocerant, Ramen Arashi and Yua Bistro. L’Apéro grew into a bricks-and-mortar restaurant. Little Jumbo added a new café and Café Brio a celebrated chef. Victoria is a small city with a high ratio of restaurants, and, thanks to the resilience of our hardworking hospitality industry, local food systems are strong. YAM magazine salutes these delicious destinations, wishing them continued support and success.
THE WINNERS The people have spoken. Victoria’s vibrant restaurant scene is vast but, with the help of your nominations, our panel of judges has again curated a list of the city’s best chefs, spaces and concepts to celebrate. Herewith, YAM’s 2022 Best Restaurant Awards — let the dining begin!
BRKATI KROKODIL/STOCKSY
ith People’s Choice Awards gleaned from online voting, and the professional opinions of a team of eight judges, we’ve crunched the numbers to create this year’s list of winners. Even as uncertainty raged around us all, Victoria restaurants and chefs stepped up and literally reinvented the way we all share food, with new spaces, patios and takeout options never seen before. Our best chefs put their thinking toques on to keep their small businesses viable when doors closed and diners dwindled. As a result, there are so many new ways for us to dine in or to enjoy their fine food at home. Whether it’s dedicated meal-replacement concepts like Refire Kitchen and Urban Forage, or restaurants adding new lines of fresh and frozen takeout meals, the dining landscape is different and delicious. Top tables including Saveur, House of Boateng and Zambri’s turned their talents to takeaway, adding multi-course weekly meals, and new fresh and frozen fare, from beef bourguignon to meatballs and lasagna to go. Many other chefs devised simplified dishes to keep their menus accessible and affordable, too — whether gourmet burgers and handmade pasta at The Courtney Room or takeaway pizza and artisan charcuterie from Agrius. When local farmers lost restaurant customers, they made new household connections. The South Island FarmHub, representing more than 20 local growers; the Cowichan Valley Cow-op, with its virtual farm market; and individual farms like The Plot Market Garden all created convenient online ordering and delivery systems to bring fresh food to our doors. Not only did they keep us fed, many restaurateurs found ways to make our local hospitality sector stronger and protect the Island’s tourist and agricultural economy, too.
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Panel of Judges
Awards Facilitator: Joanne Sasvari
Head Judge: Cinda Chavich
Joanne Sasvari is a food, drink and travel writer and recent guest editor of YAM magazine. She is editor of Vitis and The Alchemist magazines, and her work also appears in Food & Wine, HelloBC.com, Vancouver Sun and others. She is the author of several cookbooks, including the bestselling Island Eats (Figure 1 Publishing).
YAM’s food writer, Cinda Chavich, is an award-winning freelance journalist and author whose work has appeared in Cooking Light, Wine Spectator, The Globe and Mail, Canadian Living, Maclean’s and tastereport.com. She is also the author of six cookbooks, including the 2016 International Association of Culinary Professionals finalist The Waste Not, Want Not Cookbook (TouchWood Editions).
Janine Boom
Taryn Boyd
Daniela Cubelic
Dallas Harwood
Janine Boom is a local foodie, business owner and the creator of the Instagram account @besteatsvictoria. She has lived in Victoria most of her life, and she loves exploring the local food scene in search of the best eats in town.
Taryn Boyd is the publisher at Victoria-based TouchWood Editions, which produces a wide range of books, including art, regional interest and cookbooks. Among them are the Taste Canada Awards finalist Bisous and Brioche and the Vancouver Island-inspired Cedar and Salt.
Hailed as “Canada’s Queen of Tea” (The Globe and Mail), Daniela Cubelic is an accomplished tea master and owner of Silk Road Tea. A member of Les Dames d’Escoffier, she is known for her refined palate and superb tea blends and has collaborated with many local chefs and mixologists over the years.
Dallas Harwood is a cofounder and the current operator of @VicFoodGuys. He has been helping shine a light on people doing awesome things with food for the last six years in and around Victoria.
Daisy Orser
Madone Pelan
Bonnie Todd
Paul Watkin
Daisy Orser is a mother of three hungry sons and cofounder, with her husband, of The Root Cellar Village Green Grocer, a fresh food market with a strong local focus. She believes that good, fresh food is essential not only for our survival, but for our human need for togetherness.
Madone Pelan is the general manager of the Oak Bay Beach Hotel, recently recognized as the No. 1 hotel in Canada and No. 19 in the world by Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Awards. She also serves on the Destination Greater Victoria board of directors and is the chair of Oak Bay Tourism.
Since 2012, Bonnie Todd has been the founder and owner of Off The Eaten Track Tours, a foodie walking tour company that showcases her passion for the culinary culture of Victoria and Vancouver Island. She also writes for various local publications, including Edible Vancouver Island and the MicCHEK podcast.
Paul Watkin is an independent consultant who provides education and training for top restaurants across B.C. A longtime wine and hospitality industry professional, he is an accredited certified Spanish wine educator and Certified Specialist of Spirits, and sales director for the wine and spirits importer, Seacove Group.
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Best Restaurant of the Year
At Nowhere *A Restaurant, dinner might mean roasted elk rack with fresh North Star tomatoes, Natural Pastures farmhouse cheese emulsion, Joyful Agriculture oregano and Port.
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PHOTOS THIS SPREAD: JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE
NOWHERE *A RESTAURANT
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owhere is chef Clark Deutscher’s second restaurant, the follow-up to his unapologetically meatcentric Hanks, with a rotating tasting menu of local delights. It’s cheekily named Nowhere for its hidden location, accessed by an off-street courtyard, but since opening in 2018, it’s clearly become “somewhere” for Victoria diners seeking ingredient-driven dining. And if you’re up for surprises, the ever-changing tasting menu, posted on social media every week, is the way to go. Simple, rustic, creative, even a little messy — a meal at Nowhere is an adventure. This is a casual space where the chefs let the seasonal local produce define the dishes, and their riffs on even the most pedestrian ingredients are always interesting, and often inspirational. On a recent visit, the dozen small courses included fresh mozzarella made with Cowichan Valley milk and drizzled with Venturi-Schulze balsamic; a poached halibut cheek with cocoa nib sauce on avocado mousse; smoked Hillcrest Farm pork; agnolotti stuffed with spicy salmon ’nduja; and juniperrubbed elk, served alongside a shiitake mushroom poached in gin. The Wednesday and Thursday night tasting menu is an epic 12 to
At Nowhere, chefs Laura Cousins and Clark Deutscher prepare multi-course tasting menus based on the freshest produce.
Simple, rustic, creative, even a little messy — a meal at Nowhere is an adventure. 15 courses, paired down to a more focused eight or so for the weekend based on the greatest hits, says Deutscher, whose dishes depend on what local farms can deliver each week.
Though the once open kitchen has been glassed in as a COVID remedy, you can still see Nowhere chef Laura Cousins busy at work while you dine. She may even come out of the kitchen to greet you at the door, deliver the ongoing array of small plates (or help you choose a wine from their eclectic list) and cheerily share a story about the provenance of the grass-fed Comox beef on your plate. It’s Cousins’s obvious love of her craft, and her knowledge and bubbly demeanour, that draw you into the menu, even when you can barely finish the last creative course. The wine list here is as hyperlocal as the food, with plenty of natural wines from small B.C. producers. Co-owner Devon Revelle has his finger on that pulse and, like Cousins, can tell you all about the wineries, too. That’s important, as you may be venturing into unfamiliar territory, with some experimental wines on offer, such as bubbly Pét-Nat and Piquette. Like Hank’s, Nowhere is a favourite haunt for nose-to-tail food lovers. It’s not upscale dining, but rather a local food experience from a team that really walks the talk. Deutscher says the restaurant’s loyal customer base helped keep it alive during the pandemic, and innovative ideas, like a membership program with “surprise” food boxes delivered every few months, kept cash flowing for suppliers, too.
Clark Deutscher
While Deutscher has always relied on word-of-mouth and social media to promote his ever-changing menus, COVID inspired the move to the fixed daily tasting menu, which he says may remain a permanent fixture. With the ongoing challenges of unpredictable food supplies and staffing, it’s a winning formula in this small casual space. Not everyone is up for a multicourse mystery menu, but if you are, there’s nothing quite like it.
Runners Up SAVEUR RESTAURANT THE COURTNEY ROOM
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Chef of the Year CASTRO BOATENG
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Chef Castro Boateng served up hope as well as dishes that kept his community happily well fed.
PHOTOS THIS SPREAD: JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE
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hef Castro Boateng proved again this year that he is both talented and in tune with the times. His contribution to the local food scene — as a leader, mentor, innovator and entrepreneur — expanded during this challenging period, starting with a goal of putting families and community first. Like other small owneroperated restaurants, his eponymous House of Boateng (HOB) had to shift focus quickly to keep the staff working and the local Langford community fed. Boateng was among the first chefs to join the Victoria Boxes of Hope project, providing hot meals to people in need as COVID closed city shelters. An experienced caterer, Boateng then turned his skills to a comprehensive new takeout meal program, creating homestyle pantry foods, a weekly take-andbake menu and special multicourse weekend dinners, delivered around the city. “It helped to keep the supply chain open and the farms selling their vegetables,” says Boateng, noting that when the pandemic hit, many local farms, which had planned to supply restaurants like his, suddenly had no customers for the food in their fields. It was also a way, he says, to give his stressed and locked-down neighbours a little joy during trying times, with comforting family meals and nice date-night dinners to enjoy at home. “We could give them a treat on the weekend, something to improve their state of mind,” he says. “Having good food takes away a lot of your worries.” The takeout strategy was designed to keep staff working and his business afloat, but it was so successful that it spawned an expansion, with HOB Fine Foods opening down the street from the restaurant late last year.
Best New Restaurant EVA SCHNITZELHAUS
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f you didn’t think schnitzel could be stylish, think again. Eva Schnitzelhaus is the latest eatery to take up the sleek little space at Fisgard and Store streets (former home of the late, great OLO) and with chef Max Durand in the kitchen, crisp pork cutlets and spaëtzle never tasted better. Durand, who last cooked at Agrius, says the local owners wanted a German eatery to honour their grandmother Eva, and so the schnitzelhaus was born. There’s a small portrait of her by the kitchen door, along with a collection of steins and some art of the Alps, offering a decorative nod to the Germanic theme. But the room remains contemporary, with exposed brick walls, arched windows and bar seating. The curated menu is small but mightily Eurocentric. Big, chewy housemade pretzels come with a tangy mustard butter and you can have the
The curated menu is small but mightily Eurocentric.
The new space includes an open kitchen with a large bar that’s perfect for cooking classes, catering and special events. A retail space, complete with coolers and freezers, is stocked with Boateng’s own takeaway dinners, including seafood chowder, African arancini, smoked cheddar mac and cheese, Japanese teriyaki pork loin, vegetarian Wellington and “jerkup” chicken legs. He’s now bottling his own line of HOB marinades, preserves and sauces, and selling frozen food from other city chefs, too. There are regular themed dinners and hands-on cooking demonstrations, led by Boateng and guest chefs. With his wife Charlotte working alongside, Boateng has expanded his popular breakfast and lunch café to include regular dinner service, with a menu that honours his fine dining training, his African heritage and that of his Japanese team of chefs. Boateng’s focus starts with family and community, including buying fresh and foraged ingredients from local growers, and ends with warm hospitality and seriously good food. It’s a recipe for success.
Boateng’s menu honours his fine dining training, his African heritage and that of his Japanese team of chefs.
Runners Up ROB CASSELS (SAVEUR) PETER ZAMBRI (ZAMBRI’S) YAM MAGAZINE JUL/AUG 2022
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thin, crispy pieces of breaded pork in several guises, with a simple squeeze of lemon or smothered in mustard cream or mushroom sauce. Or try their other Bavarian mains, such as pork cheek goulash and beans, or raclette with fingerling potatoes. Sides range from potato rösti to braised cabbage. There’s daily brunch, too, or if you’d just like to drop in for a pint or a glass of Riesling, rustic bar snacks start at 4 p.m., including radishes with butter, Limburger and crackers or chicken liver mousse. With a small space and a small staff, it’s a concept for the times — casual, homey and accessible dining with affordable prices.
Runners Up L’APÉRO WINE & CHEESE BISTRO YUA BISTRO
At Eva Schnitzelhaus, chef Max Durand dishes up alpine-inspired fare.
Producer of the Year MAIIZ NIXTAMAL
PHOTOS THIS PAGE: JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE
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he Island’s farmers, fishers and food producers are vital to the restaurant industry, providing the quality local ingredients that inspire their menus. And MAiiZ Nixtamal has everything that defines a great food producer — passion, attention to detail, sustainable food sourcing and a commitment to community. In just over two years, chef Israel Álvarez Molina has taken his passion for authentic Mexican food from a small pop-up to a downtown tortilleria, making stone-ground masa and corn tortillas, using the ancient process of nixtamalization. As one of our judges noted: “MAiiZ Nixtamal is a maker at a deeper level than most, and an educator, passionately teaching about nixtamalization.” Indeed, Álvarez Molina has literally added “nixtamalization” to the local culinary lexicon, supplying restaurants and grocers around town with his fresh stone-ground corn tortillas.
“MAiiZ Nixtamal is a maker at a deeper level than most ...”
Chef Israel Álvarez Molina has introduced Victorians to the ancient process of nixtamalization.
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People’s Choice Awards Our expert judges aren’t the only ones who have strong opinions about Victoria’s dining scene — we know you do, too. This year we opened three People’s Choice Award categories to the public for online voting. Here’s what you had to say. Chorizo & Co.
Runners Up
KYLE JOINSON
TOPSOIL FINEST AT SEA
Best Patio BOOMTOWN Many city restaurants expanded their patios this year, but Boomtown Beer Garden + Burritos literally took the idea of eating outdoors to a new level. Boomtown is more street-side seating than restaurant — a giant multi-tiered deck wedged into a former parking lot on Yates Street, with a small walk-up kitchen/takeout space attached. With various seating areas, tables, bleachers, potted plants and trees, plus 21 taps in the tap shack, it’s the hot spot to chill. RUNNERS UP: AURA WATERFRONT RESTAURANT + PATIO, THE LOCAL
Best Grocerant FIG DELI A dine-in deli or “grocerant” is a great place to shop and refuel, and Fig Deli is all about the Mediterranean fare. Stop in for their wide selection of imported pastas, olives and sauces, then sit down for lunch — housemade soups, shawarma or souvlaki wraps, manoushi flatbread topped with spicy ground meat, plus beautiful baklava and Turkish coffee. Take home their feta red pepper or muhammara spreads, tabbouleh and Egyptian lentil koshari. RUNNERS UP: NICHE GROCERANT, FOR GOOD MEASURE
People’s Choice
Best Date Night and
Big Wheel Burger
Best Casual Dining CHORIZO & CO. As a downtown staple for cocktails and creative tapas, Chorizo & Co. is a hot spot for diners of all kinds, from happy hour early birds to after-hours industry types. Whether you stop in for a drink at the bar or gather a group to enjoy their Spanishinspired share plates, this is a small welcoming space with a busy vibe. Chorizo & Co. began life as a Spanish deli, selling house-made chorizo and breakfast sandwiches. When Stephen Quigley and Dave Brooks took over the Fort Street space, they kept the name but expanded the concept. Now the menu ranges from charred octopus and grilled Humboldt squid to white anchovies on toast and chunky seafood paella, with wine and cocktails to match. If you’re looking for a romantic evening, ask for the table for two on the upstairs mezzanine, where you can watch the busy action below while sipping a brandy-spiked sangria. BEST DATE NIGHT RUNNERS UP: FIRESIDE GRILL, SAVEUR
BEST CASUAL RUNNERS UP: ROAST, FIRESIDE GRILL
KRISTINE WILKINSON
JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE
He starts with dried organic B.C. corn (maize), soaks it in an alkaline solution, then grinds it into masa (dough) to make tortillas and tamales. All can be purchased from his shop and at many local retailers, or enjoyed on the menus at city restaurants, including the Fairmont Empress, Glo and Boom + Batten. Or get his fresh tortillas, masa and taco kits (featuring other local suppliers such as Haus Sausage Co., Foragers Galley mushrooms and Little Qualicum Cheeseworks) for takeout or dine in at the tortilleria.
People’s Choice
Best Takeout BIG WHEEL BURGER When it comes to takeout, Big Wheel Burger is a local favourite, with five shops, including its original Cook Street location. They do great burgers, fries and shakes with locally sourced ingredients, and they’re all about doing the right thing — this is Canada’s first carbon-neutral fast food restaurant, with 100-percent compostable packaging that’s composted for FED (food eco district) urban gardens. Their mantra: Fast food doesn’t have to be junk food! RUNNERS UP: CHORIZO & CO., URBAN FORAGE
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Taste of the City
LEGACY LOCATIONS With so much change the past two years, this year we also recognize the importance of acknowledging restaurants that have withstood the test of time, starting with the Deep Cove Chalet. Celebrating 50 years of fine dining this year, Deep Cove Chalet is a local landmark — an exclusive spot with a very traditional French menu. Owners Bev and Pierre Koffel set the tone — she responsible for the gardens and bouquets on every table, he running the kitchen. What emerges from that kitchen is deftly executed Escoffier-style French classic fare, whether it’s a mother sauce or a perfectly cooked carrot. Though this is not an inexpensive spot to dine, a $55 prix fixe lunch is a bargain with its three impressive courses. Start
with chef Koffel’s creamy as a teahouse, it was chowder loaded with the terminus of the BC tender clams, then enjoy Electric Railway that the halibut crusted in linked downtown Victoria paper-thin potatoes and with ferries that carried presented in a delicate passengers across the beurre rosé sauce. The Saanich Inlet. warm dark chocolate Sitting at a linencake has a soufflé-like topped table, overlooking texture, served in a pool the calm cove, it’s easy of crème to imagine anglaise why wellIt’s a snapshot in heeled and topped with a time, fine dining in locals and brandycontinental style visiting soaked celebrities that’s worth prune. choose this The menu secluded the drive. is extensive spot for as is the 30their page wine tome, which celebrations. ranges from a simple Back in the day, glass of Prosecco to a Victoria was awash Penfolds Grange or rare in traditional French bottle of Bordeaux, with restaurants, and Deep the price to match. Cove Chalet, with its Set on a prominent classic lobster bisque, point in the private soufflés and sauces, seaside enclave of is one of the last. It’s a Deep Cove, the chalet snapshot in time, fine itself has deep roots. dining in continental style Originally built in 1913 that’s worth the drive.
Best Upscale SAVEUR Stylish Saveur offers a feast for the eyes as well as the palate. Chef/owner Robert Cassels is a keen forager and supporter of small farms, so you may see pickled, powdered and sautéed bull kelp with beef tartare or albacore tuna with leek ash and pickled sea asparagus on his seasonal menu. Cassels made enjoying his fine food even easier this year by building a new street-side patio and creating beautiful sous-vide family meals to take away. RUNNERS UP: THE COURTNEY ROOM, NOWHERE *A RESTAURANT
Best West Coast Contemporary THE COURTNEY ROOM With its stylish spaces and French bistro feel, The Courtney Room is a spot for fine dining, creative cocktails, a lovely prix fixe lunch or an elegant brunch. Chef Brian Tesolin sources the best B.C. ingredients, whether he is serving a Fraser Valley duck breast with duck leg cabbage roll, silky handmade pasta or a juicy Wagyu beef burger. The compact bar is a chic spot for a plate of oysters and an afternoon happy hour cocktail, too. RUNNERS UP: WILD MOUNTAIN FOOD & DRINK, WIND CRIES MARY
DASHA ARMSTRONG
At The Courtney Room, chef Brian Tesolin sources the finest local ingredients for his silky handmade pasta.
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Congratulations
to all the
YAM Best Restaurant Awards winners!
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Taste of the City
BIG ON BREAKFAST
Best Brunch
Best Happy Hour
Victoria is known as the Brunch Capital of Canada, so it’s no surprise that this was a hotly contested category. But Nourish, a fresh, pretty space in a historic house in James Bay, won the top spot for its unique and nourishing morning menu. Whether you grab a mug of coastal mushroom-infused bone broth, tuck into a stack of Sleeping Beauty oatmeal pancakes or get the vegetarian benny with cashew hollandaise, you’ll start your day right.
Happy hour at tiny Bodega in Trounce Alley is like stepping into a tapas bar in Spain. Grab a seat between 3 and 6 p.m. and order a glass of Spanish wine or have a flight of sherry, each with a complimentary bit of Spanish cheese, a few olives or toasted Marcona almonds to match. Tapas selections include meat and cheese boards, with Manchego cheese and Serrano ham, boquerones and bite-sized pinchos, too.
RUNNERS UP: THE RUBY, HOUSE OF BOATENG
RUNNERS UP: CENOTE, THE COURTNEY ROOM
Best Plant-Based
Best Cocktail/ Wine Bar
NOURISH KITCHEN & CAFÉ
Victoria loves its breakfasts and brunches. Here are just a few places around town where they do the morning meal in style. Bear & Joey is the latest on the scene: a pretty Aussieinspired café with a focus on espresso-based drinks and Down Under brunch delights (think fluffy pikelet pancakes, avocado toast, granola bowls with coconut panna cotta, and mimosas to match). Jam Café
HÉLÈNE CYR
NOURISH KITCHEN & CAFÉ
Jam Café has expanded beyond its Victoria base to Vancouver, but the original location still remains a goto stop for southern-style big breakfasts (stacks of pancakes, chilaquiles with pulled chipotle chicken, a fried chicken benny or the Charlie Bowl, a crumbled buttermilk biscuit with roasted vegetables, potatoes, sausage gravy and eggs). The house rotisserie chicken and smoked beef brisket add a distinctive touch to the breakfast menus at The Ruby’s two locations. You’ll find creative bennies, omelets, fried chicken and waffles, and pulled chicken or smoky brisket hash and eggs. The daily early bird breakfast at Bard & Banker may be the best downtown deal, and if breakfast slides into teatime, you can’t go wrong with the White Heather Tea Room for its selection of scones, quiche, tea sandwiches and sweets to go with your breakfast tea.
BODEGA
CITRUS & CANE
Nourish got our judges’ nod for best plantbased dining, too. The brunch-focused menu leans heavily on vegan soups, dairy-free sauces, fermented vegetables and tartines topped with tempeh, crunchy veggies and the signature cashew cheeze. Carnivores will find eggs, local Berryman smoked bacon and Haus Sausage on the menu, too, so as their tagline says, it’s a great place to “Eat with People You Love.”
Victoria is home to a cool cocktail bar scene, and the new Citrus & Cane tops the list for its stylish tropical vibe, complete with a sleek central bar, a colourful Audubon-inspired mural and lots of tall fruity umbrella drinks. Whether it’s a classic Piña Colada, Mai Tai or the retro Don Draper’s Puerto Rican Weekend, rum is often the spirit of choice here and C&C has an impressive collection on offer.
RUNNERS UP: FERN CAFÉ AND BAKERY, BE LOVE
RUNNERS UP: CLIVE’S CLASSIC LOUNGE, CENOTE
At Nourish, brunch is both bountiful and beautiful.
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Congratulations to all the YAM Best Restaurant Awards winners for 2022! Make the Business Hub at City Hall your first stop! Open Monday to Friday 8:30 am – 4:40 pm 1 Centennial Square, Victoria 250.361.0629 | bizhub@victoria.ca | victoria.ca/bizhub
Best Bakery/Café FOL EPI Fol Epi is ground zero for Victoria’s legendary artisan bread-baking and fresh flour-milling traditions. Visit the original bakery in Vic West or the downtown bakery café for chewy baguette, boule and bâtard loaves. All are made with organic Red Fife and Island grains milled on site and baked in their wood-fired oven. Stop for coffee and buttery viennoiserie, too — enjoy a perfectly flaky pain au chocolat or sweet fruit danish. RUNNERS UP: CRUST BAKERY, FRY’S BAKERY
Best Takeout JONES BAR-B-QUE With a counter service diner and a large custom smoker in the space next door, Jones Bar-B-Que turns out the kind of smoky beef brisket, pulled pork, ribs and chicken you usually only find south of the border, and owner Chris Jones credits his BBQ skills to a Texas tutelage. Order BBQ mains as plates with sides of pit beans and potato salad or get the smoky meats to take home by the piece and the pound. RUNNERS UP: MAIIZ NIXTAMAL, LA PASTA LA PIZZA
Best Pub
JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE
BARTHOLOMEW’S PUBLIC HOUSE
Freshly milled flour and a wood-fired oven produce luscious loaves at Fol Epi’s Vic West location.
Bartholomew’s Public House (a.k.a. Bart’s) first opened in 1975 and is one of the city’s original downtown pubs. With 20-plus rotating taps (both local craft beers and U.K. imports), plus the largest gin selection on Vancouver Island, it’s a place for a pint or a creative G&T. With a new British gastropub menu, beer flights, a cool cocktail list and regular trivia nights, it’s the urban local, a home-away-fromhome when you’re living or working downtown. RUNNERS UP: SPINNAKERS, BARD & BANKER
Taste of the City
VICTORIA’S MAKERS KEPT US WELL FED Victoria’s makers have been cooking up everything from beautiful pastries to handy grocery items to tasty meal kits, all for takeaway. With so many people staying close to home these last two years, the meal-kit business has exploded. Who needs to cook when you can bring home the taco kits at MAiiZ Nixtamal; fish curry and steamed swimming scallop kits from the Rock Bay Market; or family favourites like pulled-pork mac and cheese from Refire Kitchen? Meanwhile, Chicken 649 and
Thunderbird rock the takeaway KFC (Korean fried chicken), Saltchuck Pie Company is the place for meat pies to go, and for an authentic masala dosa and other South Indian takeaway, there’s tiny Dosa Paragon. And you can always get your party started with Whole Beast salami, local Haltwhistle cheeses and Haus Sausage charcuterie boards. On the sauce front, a fave is the spicy Green Sauce from The Root Cellar, in both original and vegan versions. Vegans will also love the shiitake chili oils
from Umami Bomb to spice up any dish — especially good with Dumpling Drop dumplings, now found at their own café and at grocers around town. Sweet tooth? Head to Crust Bakery for a blueberry and vanilla custard danish and individual fruit curd meringue tarts. Get gingerbread cookies at Pâtisserie Daniel and exceptional shortbread from Martha’s Delectables. Take a country drive to The Roost for cinnamon buns and stop for gelato at Mosi Bakery Café & Gelateria.
The steamed swimming scallops meal kit from the Rock Bay Market.
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Taste of the City
Best South or Southeast Asian
Best Middle Eastern SUPERBABA
NOHRA THAI KITCHEN
Victoria is home to the original Superbaba location, a Lebanese-inspired fast food chainlet. And though it’s quick and easy to order your meal at the counter to eat in or take out, there’s a slow-food angle here, too. From the fluffy pita breads made from scratch and rosy turnips pickled in beet brine, to chickpeas ground fresh for falafels and grilled steak kabobs destined for grain bowls and wraps, this is quality fast food, made fresh daily.
This modern Thai restaurant in Oak Bay’s Estevan Village offers a comfortable dining experience with a stylish gilded décor and beautiful plates to match from Thai chef Phen Bryan. Her bright Thai crab cakes, spicy tom yum soup, pad Thai noodles and Massaman lamb shank curry are just a few of the classic dishes regulars enjoy at this friendly, family-run spot. With a good B.C. wine list and Thai-inspired cocktails, it’s a neighbourhood gem.
RUNNERS UP: YALLA, FIG DELI
RUNNERS UP: SPICE VALLEY, BAAN THAI WOK AND BAR
Best East Asian GHOST RAMEN
Best Latin
Ghost Ramen began as a pop-up in The Village Chinatown and is now a rebranded entity of its own. It’s the new hot spot for Asian appetizers, cocktails and, of course, their signature bowls of ramen noodle soups. Whether creamy pork tonkotsu bone broth with pork belly chashu, chicken karaage and miso, or vegan shoyu with tofu and pickled shiitake, all are made with fresh noodles arriving daily from their mentors and partners at Nikkei Ramen-ya in Courtenay.
(Spanish, Mexican, South American) MAIIZ NIXTAMAL MAiiZ Nixtamal is a small tortilleria with just a few tables for dine in, plus a takeout menu of Mexican meal components and complete dinners. It’s authentic Mexican food from chef Israel Álvarez Molina, whether you get his nixtamalized corn masa in a stack of handmade corn tortillas, quesadillas or banana-leaf-wrapped tamales, or take home a meal kit of chicken tinga, chorizo or beef barbacoa from Haus Sausage and Natural Pastures cheese curds.
RUNNERS UP: NUBO JAPANESE TAPAS, BAO VICTORIA
RUNNERS UP: CHORIZO & CO., CAFE MEXICO
Ghost Ramen
Best European
JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE
(French, Italian, German, Greek) ZAMBRI’S
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Peter Zambri is Victoria’s king of modern Italian cooking, and Zambri’s is a beloved spot to dine, whether for his classic pasta dishes, foraged ingredients or seasonal specialties. His sister Jo Zambri manages the stylish, zero-waste, carbon-neutral space, with its well-curated wine list and superior service team. Now Zambri’s also offers takeaway options, including their homestyle tomato sauce, frozen meatballs, lasagna and pizza, available from the restaurant or at several city grocers. RUNNERS UP: BRASSERIE L’ECOLE, ITHAKA GREEK RESTAURANT
FARO
PIZZA TOWN If life gives you lemons (or lockdowns, in this case), Victorians make pizza. We’ve all benefited from the groundswell in artisan makers, whether it’s the pies from our many dedicated pizzerias or the pizza-pivots of some of our favourite chefs. Pizza is designed to travel and when diners turned to takeout pizza to quell their cravings, restaurants were literally there to deliver. The people-powered Bicycle Pizza grew into a line of frozen pizzas (now at local groceries) and a new pizzeria in Brentwood Bay. Zambri’s started offering their popular pizza as a frozen option, too, now found in several local retail freezers. FARO, a posh new pizzeria, opened in the Oak Bay Beach Hotel. Wild Mountain in Sooke began serving artisan pizza from the impressive new wood oven on their seaside patio. La Pasta added La Pizza, thick slices of focaccia slab pizza, to its Italian takeaway in the Victoria Public Market. Artisan bakers stepped up with pizza projects — Fry’s devoting its wood oven to pizza every Sunday, for instance, and Agrius adding its own artisan pizza, topped with housemade charcuterie to go. And don’t forget the pioneer purveyors from which the city’s artisan pizza trend has risen: Pizzeria Prima Strada, 900 Degrees Wood-Fired Pizzeria and Standard Pizza.
FOOD + DRINK PROFILE
BOOM + BATTEN Restaurant and Cafe
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ake a stroll along the Songhees Walkway and you can’t miss Boom + Batten, one of Victoria’s most exciting, still-new (opened June 2019) additions to our local foodie scene, right on the water with stunning views of the Inner Harbour and the fantastic sailboats and mega yachts that populate the Victoria International Marina. For those on the go, there is a convenient cafe which provides in-house, daily-made pastries and other treats. For those wanting to sit down to brunch, lunch, happy hour, dinner or drinks, this elevated full-service restaurant with an extensive cocktail and wine program offers many reasons to get a table. The diverse food menu provides a balance of seafood, meats, pastas, pizzas and
share plates, and the service and culinary teams are committed to elevating every dining experience by engaging with the guests and sharing their knowledge of the cuisine and beverage program. They pride themselves on pushing the boundaries of cuisine, focusing on what is current and popular all while continuing to put the emphasis on local ingredients (for example, try the Thai Curry Mussels, shown here). The management team has also been happy to be able to host or cater to many charitable events in the adjacent event space at the Victoria International Marina. Having this additional space allows Boom + Batten to continue full operations of the restaurant and minimal disruption for the local guests.
Boom + Batten is fully committed to supporting the local community and being a restaurant for Victoria first. Therefore, the primary focus has been to cater to the locals as opposed to tourism, and as such, the clientele base has become diverse with daytime business primarily focused on local residents. As the day evolves, happy hour has become one of the busiest in the city, allowing guests to casually come in and enjoy the Boom + Batten experience at a discount. The night clientele is primarily between the ages of 25 and 45, and guests tend to dress up for a more elevated dining experience. Often the dining room is booked out for dinner 7 days in advance, so reservations are recommended.
Cafe: 9am–10pm | Dining room: 11am–10pm Mon–Fri, 10am–10pm Sat, Sun and holidays 2 Paul Kane Place | reservations@boomandbatten.com | 250-940-5850
FOOD + DRINK PROFILE
GLO Restaurant + Lounge
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erhaps it’s the floor-to-ceiling windows offering brilliant views of the Selkirk Waterway. Or perhaps it’s the flexibility of the menu which offers a wide variety of global cuisine with a focus on local ingredients, including not only vegetarian options but also gluten-free. Or maybe it’s the great team of employees who are orientated to ensure they understand Glo Restaurant and Lounge’s key philosophy of having the responsibility to provide the best guest service experience on each visit. Whatever the combination of reasons, Glo is consistently voted as the best patio and happy hour in Victoria, and recently has been voted as one of the top brunch restaurants as well. As a locally minded operation, Glo also engages with many
charities and supports events to help organizations raise money for their causes. Glo has been operating for 16 years and continues to evolve its concept of “elevated casual” by always adding new products, services and décor changes to keep the experience of the establishment current and fun for guests to enjoy. In fact, the team at Glo focuses on continuous market research to understand upcoming trends and strives to be the first to implement them locally. The result is an extensive, diverse and well-priced food and beverage menus. Choose from categories such as Starters and Shares, Soups and Salads, Casuals, Pastas and Bowls, Chophouse and Mains, Kitchen Features, and Flatbreads such as delectable Forest Mushroom (shown
here), smothered in dreamy gorgonzola cream, mozzarella, brie, wild mushrooms, confit garlic, hazelnuts, truffle oil and Island salt. Multiple drink specials complement the menu every day of the week. For just a few examples, come in on a Friday to savour the Glo Signature Bellini, on Saturday to try the irresistible Sparkling Peach Sangria, or on a Sunday for a Classic Double Caesar. Divine! Gift cards are reloadable, and balances can be conveniently checked online. Dining guests will appreciate the reimbursement for parking (details on the website), as well as the availability to make reservations for brunch, lunch, happy hour, dinner or after dinner drinks, 7 days a week.
#104–2940 Jutland Road, Selkirk Waterfront, Victoria | glovictoria.com | 250-385-5643 Sunday–Thursday, 11am–9pm | Friday and Saturday, 11am–10pm | Happy Hour, 2pm–5pm + 8pm–Late
FOOD + DRINK PROFILE
VANCOUVER ISLAND BREWING Embracing innovation
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or 38 years, Vancouver Island Brewing has been a staple on the craft beer scene. The brewery is known for creating classic and crisp lagers while introducing new styles with their seasonal beers and experimental ‘Tidal Series.’ New Head Brewer, Drew Sinden, has had his hand in expanding their beer program through the recently installed, small batch pilot system. The system lets the brewery create specialty brews that support socially conscious partnerships, like Surfrider Foundation. This upcoming benefit beer uses experimental yeast to create the ‘Tidal Series’ Surfrider Tropical IPA. Vancouver Island Brewing is embracing innovation while celebrating its legacy.
er a hidden gem.
2330 Government Street | vibrewing.com | 250-361-0007
FOOD + DRINK PROFILE
collection of vineyards, wineries and throughout British Columbia, the ach Hotel invites you to their iconic Dinner Series, showcasing the best ry paired with a seasonally-inspired d by Executive Chef Kreg Graham. An unforgettable luxury experience
OAK BAY BEACH HOTEL
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he Oak Bay Beach Hotel — a renowned setting paired
way to find a new favourite or providing each withlocal unrivaled culinary delights, guest with anis unforgettable luxury experience. Meet dden gem, each dinner set in the Executive Chef Kreg Graham and Director of Food thtaking, ocean view Grand Lobby. & Beverage Christian Sealey, the talented duo behind FARO
Handcrafted Pizza, The Snug Pub, The Dining Room, and the
iconic Winemaker’s Dinner Series. Celebrating their fifth year of ARHEAD WINERY the Series,WINES each dinner features a different vineyard or winery HONY BUCHANAN IDITY WINESfrom throughout British Columbia. Showcasing the best of every winery, multiple courses are prepared by Chef Kreg, with a GROUSE VINEYARDS variety of wines presented by the guest winemakers or winery ER CREEK WINERY owners in attendance. NTOM CREEK WINERY LE ENGINE WINES
ext reservation at hhotel.com
achhotel
1175 Beach Drive | oakbaybeachhotel.com | 250-598-4556
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FOOD + DRINK PROFILE
HOUSE OF BOATENG
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Brunch • Dinner • Catering ouse of Boateng, a beloved neighbourhood gem in downtown Langford, celebrates the flavours of West Africa, the Caribbean and Pacific Northwest. Chef Castro and team invite you to take a seat at our table and indulge in flavours with substance. Forge new friendships, cozy up with family and open your senses to simply fresh ingredients, delightfully personal service and seriously good food. After your visit, take a stroll to HOB Fine Foods, our retail space and venue to pick up ready-made meals and other local artisan products. The space is also available for private events and cooking classes.
House Of Boateng #105–2854 Peatt Road, Langford | 778-432-2233 | houseofboateng.ca HOB Fine Foods 2829 Peatt Road, Langford | 236-475-8063 | hobfinefoods.ca
FOOD + DRINK PROFILE
VICTORIA PUBLIC MARKET A hub for good music, art, food and shopping
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ight years in, the Victoria Public Market is still lauded for its variety of open-concept restaurants plus boutique stores and services. Enjoy complimentary wi-fi, grab freshly roasted coffee at Shatterbox, pick-up traditional bagels from The Bikery (Victoria’s only Kosher bakery!) and shop for designer clothes at Dhaga Fashions. Stock your pantry with Circle Canning and your cupboards with Whisk. Don’t feel like cooking? Pick up takeout from Spice It Indian, La Pasta La Pizza, Teriyaki & Roll or Roast. Dessert? Consider it done with Pie Co. or The Chocolate Project. And introducing our newest shop: the award-winning Medzo Gelato Bar — gelato and sorbet, made from scratch!
1701 Douglas Street | victoriapublicmarket.com | Mon-Sat, 10am–6pm and Sun 11am–5pm
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FOOD + DRINK PROFILE
JUCEE Eat better, drink better, feel better
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ucee is not only a dynamic new franchise but one that has community partnerships and identity in mind. Our mission is not only to serve our patrons with the most delicious, healthy smoothies and açai bowls, but to enrich our neighbours by sourcing from local farmers and Islandbased businesses. We do our best to give back to the community by hiring locally first, supporting regional teams and charities and putting the lion’s share of our advertising budget in municipal publications. Our friendly staff looks forward to serving you at both our Victoria and Nanaimo locations. Come and share in our passion for Island life!
ucee 701 Belleville Street, Victoria | jucee.ca | 250-590-5324 | hello@jucee.ca
FOOD + DRINK PROFILE
900° BiSTRO Classic bistro with a wood-fired twist
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xpanding its award-winning brand to beautiful Sidney, 900° opens a fresh new concept and menu. At 900° BiSTRO we wanted to create a fully immersive dining experience where guests can enjoy the distinct food and ambiance of a classic bistro with a wood-fired twist. Everything from pizzas to fresh pastas and Italian entrées are on the menu. “COVID spoiled travel plans for many of us, and people are wanting new experiences and places to explore close to home, and this is what we are bring to Sidney,” says proprietor Adrian Ortiz-Mena. Come hungry! 900° BiSTRO is now open at #103-2360 Beacon Avenue, Sidney by the Sea, B.C.
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BiSTR0 900 Degrees Wood-fired Pizzeria (Langford) | 900° BiSTRO (Sidney by the Sea, B.C.) | 900degrees.ca
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FOOD + DRINK PROFILE Julia McInnis (left) and Jayme Beaudry
ZAMBRI’S Serving Italian soul food since 1999
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tarting her cooking career in Montreal, it was a love for Italian food that brought Julia to Zambri’s over 10 years ago. Now the Executive Chef, Julia’s passion for old world cooking incorporating local, seasonal ingredients has perfectly married Italian traditions with all that B.C. has to offer. Jayme’s always had a love for hospitality. Holding her WSET 3 focusing on Italian wines, Jayme is continuously expanding her palette to bring new and interesting varietals to pair with Julia’s menu. Having both just honed their skills on a culinary tour across Italy, together at Zambri’s they are bringing that Italian experience to Victoria.
820 Yates Street | zambris.ca | info@zambris.ca | 250-360-1171
FOOD + DRINK PROFILE
CEDARS RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Contemporary rustic cuisine
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or over 25 years, Chef Eric Edwards has headed up Cedars Restaurant at Tigh-Na-Mara. As a Comox Valley native where farm-to-table food is plentiful, his inspiration comes from wholesome, family recipes with his creative spin. His team says he is genuine and kind with a zest for life and brings a passion to everything — a passion Eric likes to say he “serves up on a plate” for his guests. The only thing to sour his mood are the bunnies that try to tunnel into his herb garden. When not at work he enjoys his time at home creating new dishes with his wife and son.
1155 Resort Drive, Parksville | tigh-na-mara.com/dine | 250-248-2333
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FOOD + DRINK PROFILE
PIZZERIA PRIMA STRADA Pizza. People. Passion.
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ore than 10 years ago, two people passionate for pizza founded Pizzeria Prima Strada. We fell in love with Neapolitan pizza and wanted to share it with our family, friends and Vancouver Island community. What makes pizza from Naples so special? It’s the simple and fresh toppings, dough made with no more than four ingredients and baking in a wood-fired oven at high temperatures to create a crisp, bubbly and crunchy crust. The best pizza, a few cocktails, good wines and beer — Prima Strada is a place for family and friends to gather for a delicious and casual meal. Salute!
Visit us in Victoria and Cowichan Bay | pizzeriaprimastrada.com
BUSINESS PROFILE
BLACK & WHITE Event specialists
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EATHER ... you just never know if it will be too wet, too cold or too hot; and that’s where Black & White Event Rentals comes in! For over 30 years, the team, led by owner Dave Willie, has been setting the stage for outdoor events throughout Victoria and the rest of Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. Their specialty is providing clients with everything needed to ensure their event is a success, with tents of every size and description, including the latest must have: the Upscale WC, a comfortable, portable restroom trailer. Whatever the weather, Black & White has you covered!
1143 Franklin’s Gull Road, Parksville | info@bwparty.com | 778-433-1282
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One foot at a time By David Lennam
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he pandemic let us rediscover ourselves. And our environment. You couldn’t get your hands on a tent, walking poles or a backpack because we were busy outdoors, socially distancing, riffing on nature’s balm, doing what the Japanese refer to as shinrin-yoku, forest bathing. And if you think of it like that, we’ve got a pretty full bathtub. The southern tip of Vancouver Island means being a few steps away from everything: mountains, valleys, beaches, cliffs, caves, canyons, old growth. Our geography punches above its weight and a little bit under the radar. For all of its varied terrain, and endless opportunities to explore it on foot, we’re not on the world’s top 10 list yet. Yet. Our bounty of reachable landscape exists, primarily, for our own feet to tromp. If you know where to tromp. Here are a few hikes I’m familiar with. They’re popular and they are perfect day escapes. Some are less than an hour, others a bit longer, but none of these will grip you with the desire to plant a flag, assemble a cairn or eat your pack animals.
RAYMOND FORBES/STOCKSY
Hike to new heights — in your own backyard.
Mount Finlayson
JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE
Named after Roderick Finlayson, 19th-century Level: Difficult / Length: 4 km Hudson’s Bay Duration: 1.5 hours / Elevation gain: 410 m Company officer and one of the founders of Fort Victoria, the mountain presents a relentlessly steep climb, popular on weekends, but worth the effort to gain spectacular views. Lorrie Carlson races up and down Finlayson a couple of times a week with her dog, Lily. “It’s been one of my favourite hikes since I moved here in 1999,” she says. She heard it was one of the toughest so, competitive person that she is, Carlson has been timing herself on the route. Her best time? Just over 28 minutes from the bottom of the stairs in Goldstream Park. Lorrie Carlson “It’s a challenge for me. and Lily Some people run it. I’m definitely not the fastest, that’s for sure,” she says with a laugh. What makes Finlayson
challenging, she explains, is it’s straight up all the way. And there’s a devilish combination of dirt, loose rocks, rock face, some slippery bits, moss and plenty of chances to turn an ankle. “The wetter it is the slipperier it is,” she cautions. “And it can also get slippery when it’s really dry. You have to be careful.” It’s not for the flip-flop set. Nor is it a place to drag your toddler. Or yourself, if you’re not prepared. “You see a lot of people resting on the way up,” she says. “Not everybody makes it to the top. You can start out with good intentions, but it’s a whole lower body burn.” And heed the words of mountaineer and author Ed Viesturs (who probably never climbed Finlayson but did write No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World’s 14 Highest Peaks): “Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory.”
Matheson Lake Level: Moderate / Length: 4 km Duration: 1 hour / Elevation gain: 86 m
much more dynamic than flat walking. It’s a bit of a cardio boost without actually having to run.” There is a bit of scrambly rock to navigate, lush forest to soak up, some boardwalk sections and stumps to jump across — and always something new to discover. “With Matheson, it’s different every time. People wonder about going back to
“with Matheson, it’s different every time.” the same trail over and over, but there are no two days that are the same. It’s always changing.” Van Tol kicks it up by turning off at the west end of the lake, on an old portage route down to Roche Cove. The easy, 7.7-kilometre trail
ZEEMAN/ALAMY
Alex Van Tol prefers the quiet of the loop trail around Metchosin’s Matheson Lake over Thetis, Elk or Mount Doug trails. She hikes it often, experiencing the variety each season offers. “In winter, when it’s pouring rain, and there’s all these little waterfalls that come down over the path, it makes for spectacular hiking. I’ve gone in rainstorms, and I’ve gone when it’s dry and hot and when it’s full with swimmers. That’s quite fun.” It usually takes her 60 to 75 minutes with no stops. It is a rapid enough pace to get the heart pumping. “I like it because it’s not like walking on a road. You’re asking more of your muscles. It’s kind of like cross-training, not quite trail running, but
is named for Richard Roche, who served on the Arctic exploring ship HMS Resolute, which was abandoned in ice in 1854. “It’s so mossy. It’s like something from a Tolkien book. It’s like a different forest every kilometre.”
ALLTRAILS.COM
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View from the top of Jocelyn Hill
Jocelyn Hill TRAIL Loop Level: Difficult / Length: 8.9 km Duration: 3 hours / Elevation gain: 438 m
It seems a lot of those who set out to climb Jocelyn Hill in Gowlland Tod Provincial Park never actually reach the top. There’s a deceptive ridge running along the north and west of Saanich inlet down Finlayson Arm, and the views of the Malahat and beyond from the ridge mean you don’t have to bag the peak to feel like you’ve conquered it. “The climbing is almost over on top of the ridge, and Jocelyn Hill is still another half hour,” says Mark Spencer, who has hiked it a couple of times but admits that maybe he’s one of those who will never reach the summit of Jocelyn Hill. “There’s two or three viewpoints before you get to the top,” he says. “Once you get up about as high as you’re going to get, and you’re just going along the top of the ridge, there’s one
that’s called the Malahat viewpoint, and you’ve got your Squally Reach viewpoint where you can look all the way north up the Inlet to Salt Spring.” Spencer says he likes that the first 15 minutes is flat and easy. Until it isn’t. “You’re in the shade. You get into a bit of a walking rhythm until
ALLTRAILS.COM
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Trish amid the spring wildflowers in the canyon loop
you start climbing up the incline. You go across a creek, you hang a left and you’re going up.” There are two ways to approach it — from the south via the Caleb Pike trailhead, and from the north through McKenzie Bight along Timberman Trail. The daring will park a car at both ends and do the whole thing. Or, if you’re Andy Blaine, you’ll find a path even less travelled. “We found a weird access by accident — the Cal Revelle Nature Sanctuary at the end of Old Mossy Road. It was super quiet. There was nobody there.” It was still a fourhour loop with plenty of stopping to check the map in an area filled with trails for hikers and mountain bikers. “There are a lot of junctions. Take a map,” advises Blaine.
Skutz Falls Loop Level: Moderate / Length: 6.9 km Duration: 2–3 hours / Elevation gain: 150 m
Just off Highway 18 in Cowichan River Provincial Park lies an impressive canyon loop offering a smorgasbord of hills to raise a sweat, lush forests of maple and fern, Garry oak meadows, Devil’s club glades and an almost bird’s eye view of a surprisingly
raging river with kayakers playing in the rapids and anglers casting from the rocks. “In the springtime, you need to go once every week because the wildflowers are spectacular,” says Trish Letient. “Fawn lilies, camas, tiger lilies — it’s just
Trish and company at Skutz Falls
magical. We go there all the time.” Trish and her husband, Henri, live nearby in Shawnigan Lake. They often hit the canyon with their two golden labs to burn off some energy. “We take our guests there,” says Henri. “It’s one of our favourite spots.” The Letients agree it’s not a difficult trail, but it’s not for walkers, they say. “You’ve got to be able to hike,” points out Henri. “We’ve taken people on the hike who’ve been huffing and puffing and struggling on the uphill bits.” And if you’re a dog owner, note there are salmon in the river in the fall. Sometimes dead salmon. “Charlie, this one time, he got into some dead fish,” recounts Henri. “He rolled in it,” adds Trish, squishing up her nose. Uh, the dog, I presume, not Henri.
WHEN IT COMES TO HOSPITALITY / RESTAURANTS, PUBS & CLUBHOUSE DESIGN
EXPERIENCE SHOWS
• STICKY WICKET PUB, Strathcona Hotel • SAN REMO RESTAURANT, Quadra Village • UPGRADE CAFÉ, Chinatown, • THE HARBOUR CANOE CLUB (CANOE PUB & • SUSHI K, Eagle Greek RESTAURANT) Old Town • ARTISAN CAFÉ, Fort St. • OXFORD ARMS PUB, (The Flying Beagle) Cook St. • FUDO SUSHI, Broadmead Village • BIRD OF PARADISE PUB, Saanich • FARMHOUSE, Bastion Square • STEAMERS PUB, King's Hotel, Old Town • ARTISAN BISTRO, Broadmead Village • GORGE VALE GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB • NORTH-48, Langley St. • VICTORIA GOLF CLUB, Victoria • AZUMA SUSHI, Yates St. • UPLANDS GOLF CLUB, Victoria • 5th STREET BAR & GRILL, Quadra Village • CEDAR HILL GOLF CLUBHOUSE, Victoria • KOTO SUSHI, Lower Fort St. • CORDOVA BAY GOLF CLUBHOUSE, Victoria • THE OYSTER by PESCATORES, Humboldt St. • ROYAL VICTORIA YACHT CLUB, Victoria • YATES STREET TAPHOUSE, Downtown • OLYMPIC VIEW GOLF CLUBHOUSE, Metchosin • THE LOCAL KITCHEN, Bastion Square All projects by • FIAMO ITALIAN KITCHEN, Lower Yates St. • BON ROUGE BISTRO AND BOULANGERIE • THE MARINA RESTAURANT & CAFÉ, Oak Bay • VISTA 18, Chateau Victoria Hotel • FIRESIDE GRILL, Royal Oak • PESCATORE'S FISH HOUSE, Downtown • APPLETREE RESTAURANT, Hillside
Thanks to the Victoria Hospitality Industry for your confidence in my work.
Before you go ... The AllTrails app, is the definitive resource for mapping out your future conquests. Importantly, it allows you to download maps to reference when cell phone coverage gives out. The Hiking Enthusiasts Vancouver Island Facebook page is ideal for pro tips, finding a hiking buddy, sharing your favourite routes or discovering new ones. Hiking Trails 1 Southern Vancouver Island, Greater Victoria and Vicinity, 14th Edition (compiled and edited by Gail Harcombe and published by the Vancouver Island Trails Information Society) is a handbook with maps and detailed descriptions of dozens of hikes, how to get to them and what to expect when you’re on them.
BOUDOIR & NUDE-ART PHOTOGRAPHY
The VictoriaTrails.com website offers lots of local trails, maps, a good rating system and a useful how-toget-there that includes public transit.
Let your beauty and strengths finally be revealed, surrounded by Vancouver Island landscapes. Harnessing just pixels and light, we create a space where you can love yourself more fully.
1-778-268-0505 SVPHOTOGRAPH.COM svphotograph
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Mystic Beach
Francis/King Regional Park
Level: Moderate / Length: 4 km Duration: 2 hours / Elevation gain: 65 m
There’s probably a great joke about a comedian in a forest. Standup comic Morgan Cranny routinely overcomes his phobia of bears to stroll some of the 11 kilometres of walkable paths in Francis/King, particularly the Elsie King Trail, an 800-metre loop that’s wheelchair accessible over gravel
Mystic Beach
TOMAS NEVESELY/ALAMY
This writer’s favourite. It’s got everything — a suspension bridge, staircases carved from huge logs, waterfalls, tide pools, caves, ancient rainforest, giant trees and one of the loveliest beaches you’ll ever sit on. Often muddy, always look-down-oryou’ll-stumble-over-roots, this magical trail, just past Jordan River, is actually the start of the 47-kilometre Juan de Fuca Marine Trail. Getting there is, literally, only half the fun. You’ll want to spend time on the beach itself. There’s a waterfall you can walk under, sandcastle-diggable sand, and, if you go at the right time, no people. And it’s a fun hike. Sometimes it’s easy to stray from the trail, but always easy to find it again. (Look for the orange tree markers.) Plus, the sound of the waves pounding the beach reaches up into the forest and lures you down. Waterproof boots are a must. So is a camera.
Level: Easy Number of trails: 10 Elevation gain: 50 m
Morgan Cranny and his partner
O N LY M O D E R N .
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Elsie King Trail
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“It’s a great walk if you want to get into the woods, but have mobility issues.” and boardwalks through towering 500-year-old Douglas firs. “As a trail, it’s about as easy as you can do — a gravel path that goes around a mini peak; okay, it’s not a peak, just a little hill. It’s a great walk if you want to get into the woods but have mobility issues,” says Cranny, perhaps taking heed of one of the ancients, Hippocrates, who described walking as “man’s best medicine.” “After my partner had her open-heart surgery and was recovering, that was where we walked. Elsie King was just a nice option because some of the trails she wanted to go on were too rigorous.” Some days the couple veers off and explores a network of forested trails that intersect in this Highlands park, named after the charismatic naturalist Freeman King who encouraged Thomas Francis to deed 168 acres of land to the province in 1960. “We’ll get there and say, ‘Do you want to go this way today?’ Take a trail we haven’t gone on before,” Cranny says. Depending on the season, Cranny and his partner find Indian Plum, bigleaf maple, shooting stars, white fawn lilies, Oregon grape, huge ferns and cedars. And even if the parking lot is full, he says, you don’t tend to run into other hikers because there are so many different trails. “We do a couple little trails uphill and over rocky terrain … It’s just enough to get a little sweaty and feel like you’ve done something.”
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STYLE WATCH Fashion Stylist: Janine Metcalfe Photographer: Jeffrey Bosdet
STAY COOL ON LONG SUMMER DAYS WITH EASY, UNCOMPLICATED STYLE.
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This page, Her: CUalis denim jacket by CULTURE; Seko necklace by Elk; Moonlight midi dress by ASTRID, all available at Amelia Lee Boutique. Him: Chuck Linen Modern Fit Pant by BRAX FEEL GOOD, at Outlooks for Men; straw hat by Göttman Hats & Caps, available at D.G. Bremner & Co.; blue towel by Mus & Bombon, available at Amelia Lee Boutique. Opposite page: Lace Lani shirt by WORN; Lace Lupin pant by WORN, both available at Open House; straw fedora by Palma, available at Moden Boutique.
This page, Her: Scotch & Soda high-waisted bikini bottom and bandeau bikini top, available at Moden Essentials; Everyday Bucket hat by Wellington Factory, available at Open House Boutique. Him: Wagn shorts and matching Emanuel shirt by Minimum, available at Still Life. Opposite: Mahi Mahi short sleeve button down shirt by Robert Graham; organic cotton yachting tee by Paul&Shark; shorts by Dynamic Superfit & Luxury T400. All available at D.G. Bremner.
This page, Her: Paris Easy Kick pant by Cambio; Troy Tee by Mos Mosh, both available at Good Bones Clothing Company. Him: Arizona shorts by 34 Heritage; linen shirt by ALEX INGH, both available at Citizen Clothing Shop. Opposite, Her: Orange linen dress by banana blue, available at Tulipe Noire; fedora by Palma, available at Moden Boutique; Rollie Tide Triple Strap Slide in Sunset, available at Cardino Shoes. Him: Iver shirt by Sand; Jeano bomber by Matinique, both available at Outlooks for Men.
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BERRY
GOOD,
BERRY By Cinda Chavich
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BAD
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ne of my first visits to the West Coast was on a cycling trip through the Gulf Islands, and two things stick in my mind — the steep terrain and the feasts of wild blackberries. Around every corner was another uphill sprint and the reward of another bountiful berry patch. Fast forward to today. I’m a resident now, and I still can’t get enough of this delicious summer fruit. At this time of year, I always carry a few empty yogurt containers with me wherever I go, on the increasingly rare but lucky chance that I come upon a patch of ripe blackberries on my travels. Blackberries are my summer obsession — the big, dark, juicy kind that stain your hands purple and make the best jams, cobblers and crisps. You might find me standing in a ditch on a rural road, next to a schoolyard, along a bike path or golf course — anywhere this delicious fruit can still be found. Blackberry picking has long been a treasured Island tradition, but the Himalayan blackberry is now on the invasive species hit list and may soon be a memory, as local municipalities and well-meaning green teams pull out the bramble patches in the name of protecting native species. We like to bemoan this sad reality on our morning walks where big bushes laden with sweet berries once lined the roadways, attracting berry pickers like me, and the birds that often beat us to the best spots. For despite our love of blackberry jam and bumbleberry pies, our days of wild blackberry foraging may be numbered.
Friend or foe?
The debate over the beloved blackberry ...
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LOVE THEM OR HATE THEM
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Trailing blackberry
How to tell the indigenous Pacific trailing blackberry from the ubiquitous HBB? The former has leaves that grow in groups of three; the latter, in groups of five.
Himalayan blackberry
The Himalayan blackberry is not indigenous to the Pacific Northwest, and therein lies the problem.
ILLUSTRATIONS: JANICE HILDYBRANT/YAM MAGAZINE
On the Royal BC Museum’s learning portal, the Himalayan blackberry is described as a “Jekyll-and-Hyde invasive,” one that’s “loved by cooks for their sweet fruit and bee keepers for the nectar they provide” but that’s recognized as a home wrecker in the wild. Though ubiquitous here for generations, the Himalayan blackberry (HBB) is not indigenous to the Pacific Northwest, and therein lies the problem. As its Latin scientific name suggests, the Rubus armeniacus actually traces its roots to Armenia, and now “the large, dense, impenetrable thickets are a serious problem for native species,” notes the museum’s website. “In less than two years, a single cane cutting can produce a blackberry thicket five metres in diameter that will shade out native plants. The dense canopy can be particularly harmful to young Garry oak saplings, which are shade intolerant.” And our apparently insatiable love of this invader’s fruit adds insult to injury: “As well, berry pickers may further harm native plants, trampling them to get at the best berries.” First introduced on the west coast by American horticulturist Luther Burbank in the late 1800s, and prized for its sweet fruit, the tenacious plant soon found its way out of our gardens and into the wild, often outcompeting its indigenous relative, the Pacific trailing blackberry. So, there’s no love lost for the gnarly brambles among conservationists.
If you’re a cook — or a bird or even a bear — you likely love them. If you’re a horticulturist, the aggressive blackberry likely falls on the hate side of the ledger.
LOSE IT OR USE IT It’s clear that these thorny bushes are latecoming colonists, opportunistic plants that get a foothold in disturbed ground along roads, at the edge of forests and streams, wetlands and in wooded ravines. They can survive in barren and infertile soils, which is why you usually find them in the abandoned corners of the landscape. But the HBB thrives in our coastal climate — a particularly prolific fruit that, like salmon or shellfish, finds its way into many west coast recipes. Sometimes called “the cabernet of berries” for its intense, winey notes, the wild blackberry turns up in a variety of local products, too. At Sea Cider Farm & Ciderhouse, owner Kristen Needham Jordan uses blackberries in her beverages, while acknowledging their negative effect on farms and forests. “It’s a love/hate relationship,” she admits, echoing many who prize the berries for their exceptional flavour while struggling to keep them in check. “We have four acres of forest on the property and two varieties of wild blackberries growing here,” says Needham Jordan, who doesn’t encourage HBB on the farm but uses the wild fruit she has, augmented by commercial B.C. berries. In fact, Sea Cider’s Canadian Invasion Series of ciders is designed to bring attention to the problems of invasive plants, including Rosa rugosa, Scotch broom and Himalayan blackberries. But blackberries are integral to Sea Cider’s Temperance Bonnie, a delicious alcohol-free apple/berry juice blend named for Dr. Bonnie Henry. A portion of proceeds from Sea Cider’s Temperance Series goes to support wellness programs in Canada. Blackberries are also added to Sea Cider’s award-winning Bramble Bubbly (a Canadian Invasion Series cider), giving this sparkling hard cider its rosy hue and wild flavour. “We also make a Black Apple Jack cider eau de vie with blackberries, aged in oak barrels for six months,” Needham Jordan says. Several other famed local libations owe their character to the invasive HBB, too. In Duncan, Stillhead Distillery creates its Wild Blackberry Gin — voted Best Flavoured Gin in Canada for two years running — using locally picked wild Cowichan blackberries and Canadian honey. Wild HBBs growing around the region also make it into dessert wine or “blackberry port” made at several small local wineries. Cherry Point Estate Wines’ Cowichan is a fortified wine “made with 100 per cent blackberries,” says Maria Clara Mora. “It has become a tradition in the Cowichan Valley to go out blackberry picking and then bringing them to Cherry Point Estate Wines.” She notes the winery has a sorting table and a scale outside in the summer, and buys from everyone who brings in the fruit.
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“We have families who go out together and then each one brings their one container with what they have gathered,” she adds. “It is truly a community-oriented event.”
A FREE WILD FOOD Island chefs love adding wild foods to their menus, and even invasives like Japanese knotweed, autumn olive (a.k.a. silverberries), sea buckthorn and blackberries find their way to top tables. Joshua Clae Wagler, of Edible Landscapes Design, specializes in designing and planting edible landscapes and food forests and says the HBB is an invasive species with benefits.
BL ACK BE R RY JAM The perfect way to preserve summer flavour in a jar. • 6 cups blackberries • 4 cups sugar (approximately; see instructions) • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice • 1 teaspoon butter • 1 pouch liquid pectin (about 75 ml)
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Fill a large canner pot with hot water and bring to a boil. Wash berries under running water and drain in a colander. Place berries in a large bowl and crush the fruit with a potato masher. Measure the crushed fruit and place in a large heavy saucepan. Add an equal amount of sugar, then stir in lemon juice and butter. Bring mixture to a boil. Add the pectin, stir and boil for 2 minutes longer. Skim any foam from the surface and ladle into hot sterilized jars, leaving 1/4- to 1/2-inch headspace. Wipe rims, top with two-piece canning lids and screw the bands on, just “fingertip tight.” Fit a rack into the bottom of the pot. Lower the jars into the canner, placing them on the rack, making sure they are covered by at least 1 inch of water and boil for 10 minutes. Remove jars and set on a folded towel on the counter. Leave to cool completely (the lids will pop down and seal), then label and store in a cool, dark place. If jars don’t seal, refrigerate. Makes about 6 cups
“This is an incredibly drought-tolerant, on the red, orange or even yellow lists of abundant source of food that literally grows invasive plants, but rather falls into the green with no care,” he says. “I do tend to be more “control” zone. Our tasty HBB is so common tolerant of invasive species. It’s a question of and widespread, the CRD recommends it be management, not whether a plant is good “controlled,” not eradicated, with a focus on or bad.” “high-value conservation areas.” Wagler’s Edible Landscapes Design team PICK, EAT, REPEAT consults with gardeners to create spaces filled You can buy Island-grown blackberries, with tasty perennial plants and trees. Though raspberries and tayberries at this time of year, he doesn’t plant HBBs, they can be moved or even find some wild salmonberries and if encroaching on neighbouring gardens or Pacific trailing blackberries to pick. simply trimmed and trellised But you can likely find to create edible screens. the HBB somewhere nearby, Thornless varieties or native along your own walking trailing blackberries are also or cycling route, free to an option for food gardens, pick from late July through but the HBB is a more prolific September. And then there producer. are many wonderful ways to “In this era of supply chain enjoy this tasty, antioxidantbreakdowns and climate rich fruit. change, it seems like a bit of Bake blackberry pies madness to be getting rid of and mixed fruit crumbles, these food-bearing plants, “It’s a question of preserve them alone or especially in areas that management, not with other berries in jams, are already claimed by the make berry syrups to add blackberries,” says Wagler, whether a plant is to cocktails or just eat them suggesting gleaning teams to good or bad.” fresh, piled on pancakes, save wild fruit. “The native crushed on toast, stirred into plant restoration is important, yogurt or smoothies. and I plant lots of edible native plants, too. But You can also infuse blackberries in wine this is an important conversation to have.” vinegar for salads or add them to savoury And though the CRD lists Rubus armeniacus sauces for duck, lamb and venison. among a long list of invasive species, it’s not
AS C AN ADI AN AS BUMBLE BE R RY PIE This ruby red cocktail, created by bartender Kade Russell at Clive’s Classic Lounge, tastes like berry pie in a glass. • 1 oz (30 ml) Wayward Distillery’s Raspberry Gin • 1 oz (30 ml) Stillhead Distillery’s Wild Blackberry Gin • 2 spoonfuls of mixed berries • 1/2 oz (15 ml) Frangelico • 1 oz (30 ml) lemon juice • Blueberries rolled in sugar Shake all ingredients with ice and double strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with blueberries rolled in sugar.
If the blackberries are invading, I say it’s our responsibility to tame them by keeping them in check and, of course, eating them. Because they are strong and tough and prolific, we can all benefit by picking, canning and preserving our fill, while making sure the gnarly bramble patches we love don’t negatively impact other plants. I like to think of the Himalayan blackberry not as a noxious weed but as a slightly overbearing friend with a generous sweet side — and as a delicious sign of summer.
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BL ACK BE R RY BAR S Nothing says summer like fresh fruit pies — but I also like to make this pie/square hybrid — a bar that’s perfect to share with a group or haul along to a summer picnic.
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• 1 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes (and extra for buttering the pan) • 4 cups fresh blackberries (or a combination of blackberries, blueberries and raspberries) • 1 tablespoon cornstarch • zest and juice of one lemon, divided • 1 1/2 cups sugar, divided • 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour • 1 1/2 cups whole wheat flour • 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder • 1 teaspoon cinnamon • 1/4 teaspoon salt • 1 large egg • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Preheat the oven to 375°F. Find an oblong baking pan — a 9x13-inch or an 8x11-inch pan for thicker squares — and rub the base and sides generously with butter. In a bowl, combine the fruit, cornstarch, half of the lemon juice and 1/2 cup of the sugar. Stir and set aside. Use the food processor to quickly make the pastry base/topping — combine the remaining 1 cup of sugar, the flours, baking powder, cinnamon, salt and lemon zest to the bowl and pulse to combine. Then add the cubed butter, whole egg, half of the reserved lemon juice and vanilla. Continue to pulse until the dough comes together in a crumbly mass. Use two-thirds of the mixture for the base, patting it into the prepared pan, then top with the berry mixture. Crumble the remaining dough in an even layer over the fruit. Bake for about 40 minutes, or until the top is beginning to brown. Reduce heat to 325°F and bake 10 to 15 minutes longer, until bubbling and set. Remove from the oven and set the pan on a rack to cool. Cut into larger squares for a dessert. (Dust with icing sugar for a pretty presentation and serve with whipped cream or vanilla bean ice cream.) Or cut into smaller bars for lunches and picnics. Store in an airtight container. Makes 12 to 16 squares
BL ACK BER RY CHEESEC AK E IN A JAR A small canning jar is the perfect vessel for these easy desserts that can be made ahead and refrigerated. Toss whole berries with a spoonful of sugar or a splash of blackberry dessert wine for added flavour. • 8–10 1/2-cup canning jars or small glasses • 2 cups whipping cream • 1/2 cup icing sugar • 1 teaspoon vanilla • 2 8-oz packages cream cheese, softened • 1 cup graham cracker or ginger cookie crumbs • 3 tablespoons melted butter • 1–2 cups fresh blackberries In a bowl, whip the cream with the icing sugar and vanilla until stiff. Chill. In another bowl, beat the cream cheese until smooth. Fold in the whipped cream, one-third at a time, to lighten the cheesecake mixture. Combine the cookie crumbs with the melted butter. Place a spoonful of cheesecake mixture in the bottom of each jar or glass. Top with some cookie crumbs, more cheesecake mixture and a layer of fruit. (Repeat layers if using taller glasses, ending with fruit.) Top the jars with lids (or cover glasses with plastic wrap) and refrigerate up to 24 hours before serving. Makes 8 to 10 servings
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Dance Delicately on the Earth simple ways to be More Eco-conscious at Home By Jennifer Hartley
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t’s impressive that in 2019, when the United Nations launched its Trees in Cities Challenge, a campaign to encourage mayors from across the globe to mitigate the effects of climate change by planting trees, Victoria was the first city in Canada to join the challenge, with a pledge to plant 5,000 trees. In 2020 alone, the city reported that it increased tree planting by 40 per cent and planted 500 new trees in parks and on boulevards. Victoria is also a founding partner in the Love Food Hate Waste campaign, a national program designed to reduce food waste in Canada. Our environmental commitment is, in part, because of the gratitude we feel for the beauty and peace that surround us. The community’s awareness of our impact on the environment is infectious and makes us want to do more as we look for ways in our day-to-day life to have an impact. Here are some simple ways to be more eco-friendly at home.
From Pollution to Solution: Eliminating Single-Use Items The United Nations Environment Programme’s recent report From Pollution to Solution indicates there is currently an extraordinary 75 to 199 million tonnes of plastic waste in the ocean. Victorians already know that plastics are the largest, most harmful and most persistent of marine litter, accounting for at least 85 per cent of all marine waste. While we have come a long way on this front, every day in the City of Victoria, we still throw out over 75,000 single-use items. In a recent report, the City says the most common single-use items found in public garbage are cups (13,000 per day), containers (6,300 per day) and straws (5,800 per day.) In its curbside waste collection, the city is picking up over 5 million singleuse items per year (not just plastics). That is a lot of trash. There are fun ways we can reduce our rubbish. out? In case you haven’t heard, Bread & Butter Collective offers • Etheating option to purchase an eight-dollar reusable container. Bring it to a
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participating restaurant and get a new one with your meal. No waste. ack your lunch in fun beeswax bags instead of plastic containers. • PBeeswax bags are great for the fridge as well to keep your veggies fresh, and they are washable and reusable. ry zero-waste shopping. There are many places that allow you to bring • Tyour own containers. Zero Waste Emporium is one. Check out their website, zerowasteemporium.com, for a fantastic list of other local shops.
Bamboo Your Bathroom Who would have thought that bathroom tissue or paper towels were such a big problem? It turns out the daily use of paper products requires a significant amount of resources, including water and, of course, trees. According to some sources, the average Canadian uses upwards of 100 rolls of toilet paper per year, over 6,000 rolls over their lifetime, or the equivalent of 630 kilometres. There is a more sustainable alternative: bamboo.
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Some species of bamboo can grow at a rate of three feet in a 24-hour period, so it makes a surprisingly sustainable option for toilet paper — as well as paper towels. Bamboo also absorbs CO2 and generates oxygen. Not only that, it helps prevent soil erosion and requires no agricultural chemicals to thrive. is versatile and is a useful replacement • Btoamboo plastic, making it a great toothbrush material alternative. (Find the Bam Brush bamboo toothbrush at the Good Planet Company.)
nother • Aalternative to
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Easy DIY all-purpose cleaning recipe • 1 cup vinegar • 1 tablespoon baking soda • 2 cups water • 5 drops (or more!) of your favourite essential oil fragrance • Repurposed Mason jar to store the product
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“Trees are sanctuaries.” Too bad bamboo can’t grow everywhere, but trees do, and the German poet Hermann Hesse was right when he said they are sanctuaries. It’s nearly impossible to be stressed out when surrounded by those leafy giants. Trees provide oxygen and remove toxins like carbon dioxide from the air, making it healthier. While they are peaceful, tranquil and practical, too, trees also assist in preventing flooding as they filter and help regulate the flow of water from rainfall. As part of the United Nations’ Trees in Cities Challenge, Victoria is encouraging residents to plant residential trees on private property. It created a special program through the My Great Neighbourhood Grant. The city says the funding can support a variety of activities including the cost of trees, staking materials, deer fencing, mulching supplies or hiring a landscaping professional to lead a workshop on tree education. (Applications are open until October 31, 2022.)
Dealing with Dirty: Household Products Mixing baking soda and vinegar is an eco-friendly, make-ityourself option, but there are local shops and products that can help, too. he Soap Exchange has 100 per cent Canadian-made, • Tbiodegradable products, sold in refillable packaging — or, better yet, bring in your own containers. est Coast Refill also provides packaging-free bulk cleaning • Wproducts (soaps, hair products, toothpaste). Refillery & Co. carries home and personal care products • Ainshtheir refillable jars, or, again, bring your own container. .C.-based Tru Earth Eco-Strips laundry detergent eliminates • Bplastic containers. It is ultra-concentrated into small, liquidless strips that you throw into your washer with your load. They are hypoallergenic and paraben free as well. They also have a line of cleaning products.
Love Food, Hate Waste
expiration dates refer to a product’s • Food quality, not its safety. And there’s a difference between “sell by” (the deadline for retailers to sell the product) and “use by” (the date when the product starts to lose its quality and flavour). Food lasts longer than the dates on the packaging. xtend the shelf life of perishables by • Ekeeping the fridge and freezer 4°C and 0°C respectively — and unpack groceries as soon as you get home from the store. he expression that a lost sock • Treincarnates as a plastic lid that doesn’t fit anything has a solution: non-plastic silicone stretch lids. Not only are they
good for the environment, they are good for mental health, saving wasted time looking for matching tops and containers! Repurpose glass spaghetti sauce jars and use the silicone lids as an alternative to plastic ones. (Available at most kitchen stores and local retailers, like the Good Planet Company and Capital Iron.) ake a grocery list to avoid unnecessary • Mpurchases.
LOVE FOOD HATE WASTE
First, the ugly part. The Love Food Hate Waste campaign says that Canadians are among the worst of the developed nations when it comes to food waste, with about 47 per cent of food waste occurring in our homes. An average household throws away $1,300 of edible food per year, and that impacts greenhouse gases. In Canada alone, food waste produces nearly 10 million tonnes of greenhouse gases each year. Even in Victoria, the City says that every day, over 120 tonnes of materials are disposed of and sent to the landfill. This waste includes uneaten food, plastic, paper packaging, clothing and furniture. The Love Food Hate Waste campaign aims to encourage positive behaviours around food. Here are a few of their tips:
et creative with leftovers. The website • Glovefoodhatewaste.ca has an incredible inventory of recipes, including one for pickled lettuce! Use it in a slaw or in sandwiches or tacos. nother great way to decrease waste is by • Akeeping a weekly record of thrown-out items, from mouldy bananas to leftovers. Over time, patterns emerge, and tweaking shopping habits becomes a little easier.
The bottom line? Making a difference doesn’t always involve drastic measures. The little things we can do add up.
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SCENE
Blazing Mr. Blasko:
The Brains Behind Rifflandia THE PARTY RETURNS, SEPTEMBER 15 TO 18. By David Lennam | Photo by Jeffrey Bosdet
R
emember when you pressed pause on a CD player and the music stopped playing, but the disc kept on spinning? (Do you even remember CDs?) That’s sort of what happened with Rifflandia when the stage went quiet after the last show in 2018. No music, but that disc just kept on spinning, and that disc was the mind of Rifflandia founder Nick Blasko. Then the ether of the pandemic stole two festival years, but Rifflandia was still firmly stuck in Blasko’s head. And in his heart. And in our hearts, too, as Blasko proudly emphasizes. “This September, your festival returns. Period. Not our, or the, it’s yours. Because we really feel like, ultimately, that’s who owns this and dictates the success of it — the customer, the family
and the person who chooses to buy a ticket and come and see it.” Homegrown, home-owned, built for locals, beloved by visitors, Rifflandia’s absence was an empty hole inside a larger, emptier one that engulfed all of our live music in face masks, social distancing, jabs and fear. It has been four years since Current Swell (swelled by Jon and Roy, Jesse Roper and members of Carmanah) closed out the main stage at Royal Athletic Park. And perhaps it was fitting that the last act to grace that stage in 2018 could not have been more Victoria. Adds Blasko, “It’s Victoria’s festival and a lot of people I talk to love it, and they’re proud of it and they invite all their friends to it. People use it as an annual rally point for friends and family.” But back to that spinning disc, which began
“
when Current Swell finished their set that night. A changing landscape in festival production — doubling costs to book bands, rising competition from other festivals with deep, deep pockets — had Blasko hitting pause on Rifflandia for one year to recalibrate what had been, since 2008, an iconic showcase featuring 1,500 bands and performers. He recalls it was like a series of paper cuts to his business. “Little things that you’re losing audience to and competition for talent getting more fierce and expensive.” The plan was to take a year off and come back strong in 2020. But that was scuttled by a pandemic that pressed pause once more. Around the same time, Blasko sold Atomique Productions, the company he and Dimitri Demers had founded, to the Vancouver-based
I don’t like fully predictable outcomes in my life. It’s not gambling. I consider myself a dreamer who wants to act on his dreams, realizing they might not materialize.”
Rifflandia founder Nick Blasko at Royal Athletic Park — the location of the festival’s main stage.
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entertainment and hospitality heavyweight The MRG Group. However, he managed to hang onto the Rifflandia brand, keeping that out of the MRG acquisition. Like most Rifflandia patrons, I had assumed the festival was a licence to print money, but Blasko informed me that the first time it actually made money was in 2017, 10 years in. “It certainly wasn’t a windfall,” he explains, “but it was enough to say, ‘Okay, I think there’s a business model here and we can do it.’ ” Atomique had subsidized the festival through other parts of their business just to keep it going. Outwardly, to everyone, it looked wildly successful, but the truth is it was super difficult.” Blasko acknowledges that most people in the festival biz who take a year off don’t come back. But, to him, resurrection was always inevitable. “Obviously, this festival is super close to me, my family and my relationship to Victoria. I grew up here going to shows, playing in bands, doing everything I could in music.” And this September’s comeback, he says, will put the eyes of the world on us. “People will pay attention to this from all over. You can’t come back soft.” That means next level stuff. An elevated experience in the performers and at the venues — while still trying to create an event accessible to everyone in Victoria. Family-friendly Royal Athletic Park will still be the main stage, with performers like Lorde, Charli XCX and Cypress Hill as well as acts like Pussy Riot, Bran Van 3000 and Art d’Ecco. However, nine of the 15 stages will be along a licensed and closed-to-traffic Discovery Street, dubbed Electric Avenue, including Phillips Brewery, Club Kwench and the Powerhouse. “That experience of discovering music and going from venue to venue is still very much alive,” Blasko points out. “But it’s contained in a two-block area, so you don’t have to walk all over town.” While at its core, Rifflandia is a destination for locals, organizers have always envisioned it as one for festival pilgrims. This could be the year where more than 20 to 25 per cent of attendees are from off the Island. Historically, Rifflandia is a curated eclectic mix. Something for everyone. Always a bit of a risk and that’s always suited Blasko. He says that’s part of the fun of booking a festival. “I don’t like fully predictable outcomes in my life. It’s not gambling. I consider myself a dreamer who wants to act on his dreams, realizing they might not materialize.” He says that oft-repeated definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting a different outcome. “Well, you can apply that to festival production. We’re coming back after a super disruptive two years, and we’re all optimistic and we all have the greatest of intentions, but we’re also not in charge of the outcome, so there’s a lot of faith,” says Blasko, then adds with a laugh, “You gotta jump, you know?”
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DO TELL
The Farmer on Bear Hill Road Farmers grow the good, natural food that nourishes us, working long days and often into the nights. During COVID, their importance became prominent, as we flocked to local farms to sustain us. Dan’s Farm & Country Market, owned by Dan Ponchet, is one of them. The farm manages over 40 acres and grows a variety of produce that spans the alphabet: from apples and beets to strawberries, tomatoes and zucchini. It is a family business with Simon O. Fowler, Dan’s future son-in-law, a key player in making everything run smoothly.
By Jennifer Hartley Photo by Jeffrey Bosdet How did you get involved in farming? My grandparents were farmers, so I grew up in that environment, but my passion led me to study electrical engineering. I spent my late teens and early twenties traveling and visiting over 20 countries. However, life had a different path for me. When I met my partner, Sara, Dan made it clear he wanted to eventually pass the torch, which is an honour, and, well, the rest is history. What is it you like about farming? I love how farming links you intricately with the soil. You become completely tuned in to climatic conditions and their effect on crops, on the land and even the animals. With that comes a healthy respect for how agriculture grows, followed by a deep sense of accomplishment going from seed to bounty. The challenges? It is an industry that you can’t predict. Some years are lucrative; others not so much. You are at the mercy of the forces of nature, which makes it exciting and stressful, all at once. What has been your biggest struggle to date? Nothing prepared me for the challenges of running a farm during COVID. Dan and his wife were stranded abroad, and we couldn’t get the seasonal staff we needed from Mexico. We were completely short staffed in a time when we were gearing up to get everything going. It was all hands on deck — my friends and family pitching in. But we got through it and had a good season. It truly was a baptism-byfire situation for me. What experience can people expect coming to Dan’s Farm? That depends on the season. It’s a great place for families, and in the summer, it’s all about getting in touch with the land by berry picking — blueberries or strawberries. There are animals — chickens, goats, rabbits — to enjoy as well. There is the appreciation that comes from shopping, knowing your produce is grown within a couple of kilometres. We also carry local meats and other foods to fill your shopping basket with items we don’t grow, but for the most part are locally sourced. We are a community and help each other.
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