YAM magazine Nov/Dec 2021 by Page One Publishing

ISSUE 75 NOV/DEC 2021

yammagazine.com

VICTORIA’S LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE

HOLIDAY ISSUE

le S impways

to get into the holiday spirit

CREATE JOY ALL YEAR LONG

DIY TERRINES

COZY WINTER STYLE

ISLAND ESCAPES

D I S C O V E R

Your safe haven AN I SL AN D GETAWAY C L O SE T O H OM E

Celebrate you! It’s time to unwind, recharge and take some time to reconnect. As travel restrictions lift and we can start to journey farther from home, why not celebrate with a trip to Europe right in your own backyard? A note to all of our valued guests, as of October 23rd proof of full vaccination is required for ALL resort, dining and spa guests of the Villa Eyrie Resort.

It’s a culinary experience SAVOUR THE FLAVOURS OF EUROPE Indulge in a unique culinary experience combining traditional European flavours with a local West Coast twist. Open daily from 8am - 8pm (9pm on weekends). Just sit back, soak in the views and allow us to take care of you!

dine

relax

A sanctuary in the sky

TIME TO REJUVENATE Take a personal journey into a natural west coast oasis. Consider Tuscan Spa as your personal sanctuary. By offering only two guest treatments at one time, rest assured you can remain socially distant from all others.

Located just 25 minutes north of Victoria and south of Duncan 600 Ebadora Lane, Malahat, BC | 250.856.0188 | villaeyrie.com | @ VillaEyrie

Something magical is coming to Centennial Square this holiday season… FREE. ACCESSIBLE. ALL AGES.

W W W. L I G H T S O F W O N D E R . C A

6 0 9 O L I V E R S T R E E T, O A K B A Y

C O N D O S & TOW N H O M E S »

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BEDS: 2 BATHS: 2 1,176 SQ. FT.

BEDS: 2 BATHS: 2 1,344 SQ. FT.

BEDS: 2 BATHS: 2 1,573 SQ. FT.

BEDS: 2 BATHS: 2 856 SQ. FT.

Brad Maclaren PREC

Christine Ryan

Marnie Ross

Beth Hayhurst

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778.533.3205

250.514.4363

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« U N I Q U E O P P O R T U N I T I E S S I N G L E FA M I LY H O M E S »

UNIQUE OPPORTUNITIES »

SOLD

$5,200,000

$638,888

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Sidney Development Opportunity

1430 Pacific Rim Highway, Tofino

789 Lily Ave., Saanich

18,000 SQ. FT.

BEDS: 4 BATHS: 3 1,910 SQ. FT.

7,178 SQ. FT. LOT

Harley Shim

Natalie Zachary

Marsha Graham

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3275 Campion Rd., Central Saanich BEDS: 5 BATHS: 7 9,156 SQ. FT. 8.39 ACRES

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S I N G L E FA M I LY H O M E S » INTRODUCING

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886 Walfred Rd., Langford

5640 Batu Rd., Saanich

8763 Beaumaris Pl., North Saanich

4409 William Head Rd., Victoria

BEDS: 5 BATHS: 6 5,983 SQ. FT.

BEDS: 3 BATHS: 5 5,039 SQ. FT.

BEDS: 3 BATHS: 1 2,294 SQ. FT. 4.64 ACRES

BEDS: 5 BATHS: 4 3,384 SQ. FT. .62 ACRE

Andy Stephenson

Andrew Maxwell

Dean Innes

Sandy Berry

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Connect with your local experts.

Andy Stephenson

Andrew Maxwell

Victoria 250.380.3933

Beth Hayhurst

Brad Maclaren

Salt Spring Island 250.537.1778

Brayden Klein

Vancouver 604.632.3300

Brett Cooper

Christine Ryan

West Vancouver 604.922.6995

D’Arcy Harris

White Rock 604.385.1840

Dean Innes

Don St. Germain

Whistler 604.932.3388

Glynis MacLeod

Kirsten MacLeod

Kelowna 250.469.9547

Harley Shim

Sun Peaks 250.578.7773

Move Beyond Your Expectations S O T H E B Y S R E A L T Y. C A 7 0 6 - 8 4 8 Y A T E S S T R E E T, V I C T O R I A

« C O N D O S & TOW N H O M E S U N I Q U E O P P O R T U N I T I E S »

« UNIQUE OPPORTUNITIES

$7,899,999

$18,750,000

price upon request

$11,975,000

203-1477 Yale St., Oak Bay

1277 & 1281 Lynn Rd., Tofino

Sear Island, Gulf Islands

377 Seymour Hts., Salt Spring Island

BEDS: 2 BATHS: 2 1,253 SQ. FT.

BEDS: 6 BATHS: 7 5,987 SQ. FT. 1.19 ACRES

BEDS: 9 BATHS: 4 4,500 SQ. FT. 28 ACRES

BEDS: 7 BATHS: 8 7,324 SQ. FT. 71.17 ACRES

Robyn Wildman

Logan Wilson PREC

Nico Grauer PREC

Brayden Klein

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250.857.0609

250.228.3858

250.588.2466

« S I N G L E FA M I LY H O M E S INTRODUCING

$8,990,000

4823 Major Rd., Saanich BEDS: 7 BATHS: 8 7,896 SQ. FT.

Lisa Williams

250.514.1966

PREC

$8,880,000 4035 Locarno Ln., Victoria

$3,300,000 554 Beach Dr., Oak Bay

BEDS: 5 BATHS: 6 6,044 SQ. FT. 1.01 ACRES

BEDS: 3 BATHS: 3 3,026 SQ. FT.

Glynis MacLeod PREC Kirsten MacLeod

250.661.7232 250.686.3385

$2,950,000

609 Oliver St., Oak Bay

250.661.7232 250.686.3385

BEDS: 4 BATHS: 4 3,702 SQ. FT.

Peter Crichton

250.889.4000

« S I N G L E FA M I LY H O M E S RECENTLY SOLD

$1,200,000

INTRODUCING

$1,199,000

SOLD

$949,000

1907 Stanley Ave., Victoria

2111 Wenman Dr., Saanich

386 Pacific Cres., Ucluelet

6920 East Sooke Rd., Sooke

BEDS: 3 BATHS: 3 1,951 SQ. FT.

BED: 5 BATH: 2 2,375 SQ. FT.

BEDS: 5 BATHS: 3 2,217 SQ. FT.

BEDS: 1 BATHS: 1 732 SQ. FT.

Brett Cooper PREC

Don St. Germain PREC

Samantha Jensson

Tom De Cosson

Jacob Garrett

Toronto

250.858.6524

Lisa Williams

Paris

Logan Wilson

Marsha Graham

New York

Marnie Ross

Tokyo

250.744.7136

Natalie Zachary

Nico Grauer

Hong Kong

Peter Crichton

Montréal

250.818.2006

Robyn Wildman

Sandy Berry

Samantha Jensson

250.858.5841

Sean Farrell

Tom de Cosson

S OT H E B YS R E A LT Y.C A

Independently Owned and Operated. E.&O.E.: This information is from sources which we deem reliable, but must be verified by prospective Purchasers and may be subject to change or withdrawal. PREC is Personal Real Estate Corporation.

on the cover

A HOME FOR THE HOLIDAYS A thoughtful renovation transforms a heritage home into a timeless vision of gleaming white and gold.

Holiday Issue

By Danielle Pope

CONTENTS

10 SIMPLE WAYS TO GET INTO THE HOLIDAY SPIRIT From baking with friends to playing street hockey, we round up the best ways to enjoy the festive season.

DIY CHARCUTERIE

HOLIDAY PARTIES 101

CREATE JOY ALL YEAR LONG

3 ISLAND ESCAPES

Impress your friends (and yourself!) with homemade gourmet terrines and pâtés.

Everything you need to know about hosting a festive event — starting with a signature cocktail.

Happiness is all around, and these joy creators know just how to find it any day of the year.

Discover new worlds of adventure this winter, right in our own backyard.

By Cinda Chavich

By Joanne Sasvari

By Erin Skillen

By Susan Hollis

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

By Tim Ennis, Joanne Sasvari, Carla Sorrell

From our homes to yours, we wish you a Christmas season filled with love and wonder – your Christmas story for the ages. 250.383.6509 | TRILLIUMCOMMUNITIES.COM

CO N T E N T S Holiday Issue

12 EDITOR’S NOTE 17 HERE + NOW

YAM’s latest finds in home décor, fashion, lifestyle and food.

24 IN PERSON

For baker Tom Moore, the holidays are sweet. By Cinda Chavich

36 HOME +

LIFESTYLE A gleaming heritage reno in grand style. By Danielle Pope

68 STYLE WATCH

Stay warm and stylish in luxe seasonal knitwear. Styled by Janine Metcalfe

88 SCENE

Jazz singer Joe Coughlin is still swinging. By David Lennam

90 DO TELL

A Proust-style interview with runner Nate Riech. By Aldyn Chwelos

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

SUITING. CASUAL. LIFESTYLE. EVERYDAY. HOLIDAY.

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• CO P P L E Y • T E D BA K E R E N D U R A N C E • D I G E L • E T H N I C B LU E

34 H E R I TAG E • AG J E A N S • SAX X • 7 D OW N I E ST. • PAU L & S H A R K • G R E E N COAST

Wishing You the Very Best of the Season!

• RO B E RT BA R A K E T T • B R AX • B U GAT T I • BA L D E S SA R I N I • TO M M Y BA H A M A

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Holiday Presence

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YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

hen I was little, Christmas was all about the gifts. Sure, we were happy to see the extended family, the grandparents, aunts and uncles who would fly in from across the country. And we loved the sparkly lights and the tinsel, the cookies and the candies, and being allowed to have a celebratory sip of wine with dinner. But what kept me and my sister transfixed was the pile of presents under the tree, wondering what was under all that gaudy paper wrapping. The holidays are still about gifts, but after the last couple of years, how we define them has changed. Now we know that what matters most is the people we love, the gift of spending time together, and not on a Zoom screen. Turns out, the best present doesn’t come with a bow on it. It comes from our connections with each other. One of my most treasured gifts this year has been the opportunity to guest edit this issue of YAM magazine. It has been an absolute pleasure to work with such a talented team of writers, editors and photographers — and it has been an even greater one to tell the stories of this fantastic city and the people who call it home. Victoria is a special place on the planet, and never more so than during the holidays. So in this issue of YAM, we’re hoping to make your days merry and bright. We know your hosting skills might be a little bit rusty, so our Holiday Parties 101 entertaining guide provides everything you need to know before you invite friends over — and we have even more food, drink and décor ideas for all your most festive moments. At the same time, we know that the holidays are not the most wonderful time of the year for everyone, and that it can be a sad and lonely time, too. So we’ve got loads of simple ideas for bringing joy into your life during the holidays and throughout the year, no big investment of time or money needed. Now that’s the kind of gift I love the most, don’t you? Plus we have gift ideas, festive events, cozy fashions, intriguing people, easy Island escapes and more great reads for you. Wishing you, your friends and family the merriest of holidays and a joyful New Year, Joanne Sasvari, together, in this beautiful place we call home. Guest Editor editor@ yammagazine.ca

“Every great design begins with an even better story.” — Lorinda Mamo, designer

You are unique, your home is unique, and Luxe is not your typical furniture store. At Luxe Home Interiors, we believe in curating an inspiring shopping experience where customers can see, touch and feel great treasures that cannot be found anywhere else. We believe in shopping local, and relish the beautiful human connections that happen with in-person shopping. All of our sales people are skilled designers. Let us help you tell your unique story. Visit us at our new home at 564 Yates Street, conveniently located across from the Bastion Square Parkade (first hour free)!

564 Yates St 250.386.7632 luxevictoria.ca

tug-o-war no moreEveryone

happy holidays from

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Handmade sheepskin slippers Visit us at Muffet & Louisa, we would love to help you choose the perfect duvets. for the whole family

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VICTORIA’S LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE

PUBLISHERS Lise Gyorkos, Georgina Camilleri

THYMES

GUEST EDITOR Joanne Sasvari

FRASIER FIR

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Jeffrey Bosdet

It’s beginning to smell a lot like Christmas!

PRODUCTION MANAGER Jennifer Kühtz DIGITAL MARKETING MANAGER Amanda Wilson LEAD GRAPHIC DESIGNER Janice Hildybrant

ASSOCIATE GRAPHIC DESIGNERS Jo-Ann Loro, Caroline Segonnes

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Carla Sorrell EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Aldyn Chwelos ADVERTISING COORDINATOR Rebecca Juetten

ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES Deana Brown, Cynthia Hanischuk, Brenda Knapik

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Cinda Chavich, Tim Ennis, Susan Hollis, David Lennam, Danielle Pope, Erin Skillen

CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITOR Janine Metcalfe

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Jeffrey Bosdet, Jenn Dykstra, Joshua Lawrence, Michelle Proctor

New location: 523 Fisgard Street | 250-382-4424 | www.fantanvictoria.com

PROOFREADER Paula Marchese CONTRIBUTING AGENCIES Getty Images p. 28, 29, 30, 32, 33, 53, 54, 64; StockFood p. 52; Stocksy p. 28, 29, 60, 61, 62, 63 GENERAL INQUIRIES info@yammagazine.com LETTERS TO THE EDITOR letters@yammagazine.com TO SUBSCRIBE TO YAM subscriptions@yammagazine.com ADVERTISING INQUIRIES sales@yammagazine.com ONLINE yammagazine.com FACEBOOK facebook.com/YAMmagazine TWITTER twitter.com/YAMmagazine INSTAGRAM @yam_magazine

ON THE COVER A Home for the Holidays See story on page 36. Photo by Joshua Lawrence.

Show your appreciation for that essential worker in your life with the gift of improved circulation from Sockwell compression socks.

Published by PAGE ONE PUBLISHING 580 Ardersier Road, Victoria, B.C. V8Z 1C7 T 250-595-7243 info@pageonepublishing.ca pageonepublishing.ca

Printed in Canada by Transcontinental Printing. Ideas and opinions expressed in this publication do not necessarily reflect the views of Page One Publishing Inc. or its affiliates; no official endorsement should be inferred. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement, and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not the publisher. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in all or part, in any form — printed or electronic — without the express permission of the publisher. The publisher cannot be held responsible for unsolicited manuscripts and photographs. Canadian Publications Mail Product Sales Agreement #41295544

ADVERTISE IN YAM MAGAZINE YAM is Victoria’s lifestyle magazine, connecting readers to the distinctive lifestyle and authentic luxury of the West Coast. For advertising info, please call 250-595-7243 or email sales@yammagazine.com.

1023 Fort Street | 250.920.7653 | heartandsoleshoes.ca 16

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

HERE + NOW

JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

BUBBLY BAUBLES “I pull inspiration from everywhere I go, but most of my inspiration comes from nature,” says Emma Glover. The Victoria-based jewelry designer and metalsmith launched Emma Glover Design in 2008 after training with renowned silverwork instructor Billy King in Mexico. Now she conjures rustic-romantic rings, earrings, pendants, bracelets and cufflinks from silver, gold and gems, including her popular Mermaid Treasure collection. “It has an oceany, bubbly character,” she says. “It’s really strong and durable, but shiny and sparkly at the same time.” emmagloverdesign.com

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

Holiday Makers Markets JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

Find one-of-a-kind gifts and sweet festive treats. Nothing gets you in the spirit of the holidays like these friendly markets.

TOYS WITH MEMORIES INCLUDED

Crystal Garden After nearly two years on hiatus, this lively market returns for Christmas 2021 with more than 120 of the most talented designers, makers and artisans from across B.C. outofhand.ca

Cherry Bomb Toys spreads joy and community spirit. By Aldyn Chwelos

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

November 19 to 20, Fernwood NRG Swing by for the live music, tasty food trucks and handcrafted designer goods like Mirabeans’ upcycled woollens at this popular annual fair. owlfair.com

OUT OF HAND MODERN MARKET November 26 to 28,

VICTORIA EDELWEISS CLUB CHRISTMAS MARKET November 27,

Victoria Edelweiss Club Enjoy the fairy-tale romance of Christmas in Germany while shopping for holiday wreaths, stollen, deli items and gifts. victoriaedelweiss.ca

TOUCH OF SALT SPRING CRAFT & ART SHOW December 3 to 5, Mary Winspear

JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

herry Bomb Toys is a dream for kids and collectors alike with display cases of novelties new and old lining the heritage brick walls of their Broad Street building. Longtime toy enthusiasts Candice and B Woodward opened the store in 2004. While they do carry new products such as Lego toys, they specialize in vintage items and collectibles — or, as they call them, “toys with memories included.” “The nostalgia is what we love,” says Candice. “The memory that it goes along with, it gives you a bit of a warm and fuzzy feeling.” They source their toys from the local community. Many are brought to them accompanied by stories. Others, showing wear from years of play, are carefully repaired by B before finding homes on the shelves. There, they’ll be browsed by shoppers of all ages searching for that perfect toy. “Some people are showing their kids what they used to play with, and then we get the collectors that are looking for themselves,” says Candice. “Because we’ve been in business for 17 years, we’ve seen kids grow up and they’re bringing their little kids.” Creating community drives a lot of what B and Candice do. In December, they showcase local artists at the Nerdy Days of Christmas Craft Fair. The show runs for two days, and all proceeds from the door are donated to the Victoria Hospitals Foundation. “It’s little tiny, niche-y, nerdy crafts,” says Candice. “It’s super-duper fun.” cherrybombtoys.com

OWL DESIGNER FAIR

Centre, Sidney Since this market was first held 30 years ago, it has expanded to become the largest arts and crafts show in the Islands, with more than 200 crafters and artisans. atouchofsaltspring.com

41st ANNUAL DICKENS FAIR

December 4, James Bay Market Don’t be a Scrooge! Grab a snack at the Dickens Café and browse through toys, jewelry and more from dozens of artisan vendors at this beloved Victoria tradition. jamesbaymarket.com/dickens-fair Note that all Christmas markets will follow provincial pandemic protocols, and may be required to change or cancel operations with short notice.

KOSHER TREATS City Seen Deck the tree with a sweet cityscape from the local business Thank You Alder. Victoria-based designer Rylee Postulo translates her intricate ink drawings of cities and nature into beautiful, customizable ornaments. Each laser-cut piece is made from layers of sustainable wood, handpainted in her studio, then sold through her Etsy store and website. “Giving gifts to the people I love is one of the greatest joys in my life,” she says. “Seeing the looks on their faces, and sharing that moment helps the stresses of the world fall away.”

thankyoualder.com

Seasonal Reads

WILLIAM PRITCHARD

Craving a good book this winter? Try these three recommendations from the team at Munro’s Books.

The Island finally has a sweet bakery for all your bagel, challah and rugelach cravings.

tarting November 28, when Victoria’s Jewish families gather to celebrate Hannukah, they’ll be able to enjoy traditional sufganiyot, a type of jelly-filled doughnut, from Vancouver Island’s first certified kosher bakery. “The sufganiyot is really the only treat for Hannukah,” says Markus Spodzieja, founder and head baker of The Bikery. The He began the business as a mobile bike vendor in 2017, peddling pretzels to downtown businesses. sufganiyot “I had a bit of a following,” he says modestly. is really the When COVID hit, he added more items, including the enriched only treat for braided bread known as challah, and began delivering door to door. Hannukah.” The challah became popular for many Jewish families’ Shabbat meals, and a whole new kosher business model was born. The Bikery is now located at the Victoria Public Market and is certified pareve kosher, supervised by Rabbi Meir Kaplan of Chabad of Vancouver Island. “What really struck me is it’s all about family and traditions,” says Spodzieja, who is not himself Jewish. “And the thing that brings everyone together is food.” thebikery.ca

“

Atlas of the Heart Brené Brown

The inspiring writer returns with a journey through 87 of the emotions and experiences that define what it means to be human.

Island Eats

The Apollo Murders Chris Hadfield

Dawn Postnikoff and Joanne Sasvari

There’s lots of buzz about this first novel by the Canadian astronaut, which combines political intrigue and sci-fi detail.

Foodies on the Island love local cookbooks — and this is expected to be one of the highlights for holiday gift giving.

Modern Flair William Pritchard displays rare chairs by midcentury designer Hans Wegner.

Clean lines and craftsmanship are the hallmarks of the Scandinavian furniture at the newly opened Pray for Modern showroom.

illiam Pritchard is smitten with the clean, elegant lines of top-quality furniture from the 1950s and ’60s. “The high-end mid-century stuff is so rare. It’s so well made,” says Pritchard, the owner of Pray for Modern. “It’s got a mystical quality.” He began buying and selling the mostly Scandinavian pieces in 2013 when he was still in university. Just a few months ago, he opened a showroom on Fisgard Street where he can display, say, a pair of rare Pretzel chairs or a Danish teak “Lotus” dining table. “It started out as a job to make money,” Pritchard says. “It gradually became my passion and my business.” He still spends about five hours a day scouring the internet for pieces and connecting with buyers. “The really rare pieces you have to chase around the world,” he says, but notes, “There’s a lot of good stuff in Victoria, too. Beautiful furniture, beautiful homes, cool people.” prayformodern.com

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

MAKING A SPLASH

Coast Salish artist Maynard Johnny Jr. brings his bold esthetic to BC Ferries.

he Salish Sea will be a little brighter next year and a whole lot more colourful when BC Ferries’ newest vessel starts plying its waters. That’s because the Salish Heron will be adorned with the vivid work of Coast Salish artist Maynard Johnny Jr. of Chemainus, B.C. The Salish Class ferries that serve the Gulf Islands are named to honour the original mariners of the Salish Sea and feature designs by artists such as Darlene Gait and John Marston. For its newest vessel, BC Ferries partnered with the First Peoples’ Cultural Council to seek submissions from Coast Salish artists, and Johnny’s bold colours and graceful linework carried the day. “To share my vibrant style and colour on the Salish Heron vessel with the surrounding areas of the Salish Sea and visitors from around the world is an honour for me,” says Johnny, whose work has been seen everywhere from Grey’s Anatomy to the Juno Awards’ gift boxes. The Salish Heron is currently under construction and will set sail in 2022.

of year ag at time ain h t ... It’s

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YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

A PINT + A PASSION Two dads share their love of great beer.

ver the past year, a shared taste for beer turned Will Sorrell and Greg Iredale from neighbours to friends to business partners. Now the two proud fathers are launching 2DADS, a line of refreshing craft beers that are in stock at private stores across Victoria now (see website for details) with a family-friendly brewery to follow in 2022. Among them are a Citra pale ale, a crisp Czech-style pilsner and a juicy India Pale Ale. “One thing we are trying to do is make everything really easy to understand, [so that it’s] interesting for real beer enthusiasts, but anyone can pick them up and enjoy them,” says Sorrell. “Right now we want to put out a lot of really delicious beers for people to enjoy.” Of course, that’s when they’re not doing their day jobs or taking care of their kids. (Sorrell has two, and Iredale has one.) After all, as Sorrell says, “We’re fathers first and everything else second.” 2dads.beer

JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

TANNER DESIGN WORKS

KITCHENS | CLOSETS | OFFICES tannerdesignworks.ca

250 589 6955

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

TASTES+TRENDS By Cinda Chavich

All I Want for Christmas Looking for a gift for your favourite bon vivant? Here are some local inspirations to wrap up this holiday season.

■ If you’re looking for the perfect holiday sipper, the spiced honey notes of Krupnik from Wayward Distillery hit the sweet spot. Based on an old Polish recipe, this savoury liqueur starts with Wayward’s vodka, distilled from B.C. honey, and is blended with additional honey that’s toasted until richly caramelized, then spiced with cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla and citrus zest. It’s the top seller for this Courtenay-based artisan distiller and makes a welcome gift and a lovely dram to serve alongside fruitcake or to mix into a hot toddy to chase the chills! waywarddistillery.com

Savour the Island ■ Every foodie loves to open a curated basket of delicious goodies. For some real local flavour look no further than Off the Eaten Track. Like their city food tours (both guided and now selfguided), the Taste of the Island boxes include treats from some of our best restaurants, bakeries and purveyors. They include: the Victoria High Tea Box (Silk Road, Murchie’s and Fairmont Empress teas with sweets from Good Bite, Tout de Sweet Confections and Bon Macaron); the Gin Happy Hour Box (DEVINE Genever with Phillips’ Sparkmouth tonic, Jennie Marie’s lime and pepper crackers and St. Jean’s Candied Salmon); and Victoria’s Best Breakfast Box (Granola from Singing Bowl Granola, 2% Jazz Coffee, Island Nut Roastery Peanut Butter, Old Soul jam and Zambri’s hot sauce). selfguidedfoodtours.ca/a-taste-of-the-island-boxes The Gin Happy Hour Box

JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

Sweeter Than Honey

Cookware a Chef Would Love ■ Leechtown Blacksmith Co. in Metchosin is creating beautiful hand-forged cookware that’s all the rage with top chefs (think Wild Mountain chef Oliver Kienast and chef Paul Rogalski of the Wild Harvest TV series). They also make hand-forged kitchen tools and can even re-tin your vintage copper pots. Spendy, but so special! leechtownblacksmithco.com

Food with Friends ■ Fans of Kootenay chef Shelley Adams and her Whitewater Cooks series will be thrilled to receive the latest instalment, Together Again. With inspiration from her adult children and friends, Adams has developed a moreish collection of 80 new recipes, all featuring her typical West Coast flair. With beautiful photos — think Korean slow-roasted pork lettuce wraps with kimchi and ssam sauce, Moroccan spiced turkey burgers, lemony apple and ricotta cake, and spicy chocolate hazelnut cookies — this is a book that will send you straight to the kitchen to cook. whitewatercooks.com

DIY Kombucha ■ The folks at Cultured Kombucha share their kombucha-brewing techniques with a Brew-it-Yourself Kombucha Kit and classes at the Rock Bay Market. The kombucha starter kit includes enough premeasured organic tea and cane sugar for two batches, a healthy heirloom SCOBY (the same culture they use), a one-gallon, wide-mouth Mason jar, natural cloth tea strainer and temperature strips, plus their 28-page booklet, complete with recipes and professional tips. rockbaymarket.ca/product/complete-brewit-yourself-kit

Sultans of Soup

love a good bowl of ramen, but trying to find this Japanese noodle soup in Victoria has often left me in dire straits. A ramen fix meant a trip to Vancouver or, more recently, a drive to Greg Masuda’s Nikkei Ramen-ya in Courtenay for an authentic bowl of his slurpable hand-made noodles. Jason Chan, founder and coowner of The Village eateries in Victoria, was another ramen lover who made the pilgrimage up-Island for Masuda’s rich pork broth, rolled pork chashu, chicken karaage and fresh, chewy noodles. And one day, he came home with a plan to bring Masuda’s ramen to the capital. The pair launched a collaborative pop-up project this summer, with Masuda sending his fresh noodles, unctuous pork and chicken broths, sous vide pork belly and other accoutrements by refrigerated truck to Victoria each week, where the chefs at The Village Chinatown assembled and sold the authentic ramen bowls to eager customers.

No need to drive up-Island: Find Nikkei Ramen-ya’s Vegan Yasai at The Village Chinatown.

Now they’ve gone even further, inking a partnership deal and setting up Ghost Ramen in the Store Street space. The restaurant is dedicated to serving Masuda’s varied ramen selections, from Gekikara Karaage Miso Paitan with spicy chicken miso broth to Kimchi Tonkotsu Shoyu with pork belly and vegan yasai, among others. The noodles and soups will still be made in Courtenay, with plans to deliver 1,000 deconstructed bowls to Ghost Ramen every week. Masuda, an engineer-turnedfilmmaker-then-ramen-master, practises Japanese kaizen, the business philosophy of continually improving, so there are always new ideas emerging

from his kitchen. Chan calls the Nikkei Ramen-ya production space a “lab” and says Masuda is meticulous about every aspect of this dish — from precisely cooking his fresh alkaline noodles at 97°C to serving the steamy bowls of ramen within two minutes of assembly. Though not his preference, the pandemic pushed Masuda to offer his ramen for takeout in Courtenay and Chan says Ghost Ramen offers both dine in and delivery. Chan and Masuda share a love of quality local ingredients and sustainable restaurant practices. It’s a tasty tale of two cities and a happy union of broth brothers in arms. ghostramen.ca

YAM

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YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

The holidays bring gifts of inspiration for Tom Moore, the co-owner of Crust Bakery — and treats for the rest of us.

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

IN PERSON

Visions of Sugar Plums At Crust Bakery, Tom Moore crafts sweet moments (and exquisite tarts) for the holidays. By Cinda Chavich | Photos by Michelle Proctor

ew images conjure up the magic of the holiday season like kids gazing longingly into a shop window at the array of shiny toys and treasures inside. But these days, that could be all of us, standing on the sidewalk outside our favourite eatery, waiting for something delicious to take home. At Crust Bakery, with its streetside windows filled with beautiful, seasonal mince tarts, cranberry danishes, individual eggnog brûlées and chewy gingerbread, the anticipation is palpable. And baker Tom Moore says sharing those sweet moments is what makes his business such a joy. “The main reason I went into baking in the first place, from cheffing, was this satisfaction that it brings me, by seeing people really enjoy it,” says Moore. “I can literally stand there and watch people as they’re eating, even if they’re eating with their eyes — it’s ‘Ahhhh, this is soooo good!’ There’s not many times as a chef where you really get to see that.” Moore started his professional career as a trained chef in Australia, opening two restaurants in Canberra before embracing the world of baking. He moved to Victoria and opened Crust downtown on Fort Street in 2013, and continues to run the popular bakery with his ex-wife and current business partner, Crystal Moore. Like many bakeries in the city, Crust has become a bit of a lifeline for locals over the last two years, a constant we can count on for a daily loaf of fresh sourdough, a buttery croissant or a pretty pastry. While so many businesses faced closures, Moore kept Crust open with online ordering and delivery, even expanding to a second retail shop, an outdoor glass kiosk in the courtyard of the Uptown mall. He hired two drivers to make deliveries and, with a staff of 35, nearly doubled his output. As demand from hungry tourists and downtown office workers dwindled, new customers discovered his everchanging menu of innovative tarts and seasonal danishes via the virtual shop window of social media, then lined up outside his bakeries to buy. Delicious flavours and consistency are Moore’s first priority, but beautiful food is also his mantra. “I’m a strong believer in this. Something that has a lovely esthetic and looks pretty, and then you eat it and it’s even more amazing, really makes you feel good,” he says. “They’re little treats, a release when things aren’t going well. [People] walk past the bakery and just get swept up in this happy place.” His signature sweets — including lychee, rosewater and raspberry danishes, chocolate pecan tarts and blueberry vanilla cream pastries — are constants, but seasonal ingredients and holidays offer Moore ongoing inspiration. “It’s a chance to be really creative and show people what I can do,” he says.

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

“I love the impact I can have, even for a little while, on people’s lives.”

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YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

“I got some plums in, and I cooked them in cherry juice with some star anise and some orange purée, and we put them on a pastry of the moment. Yum, right?” He laughs with typically candid enthusiasm. “It’s fun to be creative and use this beautiful produce. I love Vancouver Island for that.” Moore equates his array of individual tarts and pastries to a chef’s degustation menu, allowing customers to graze through a variety of flavours. “It means you don’t have to buy a full-sized pie. It means you can have one that’s a few bites, and you can get a chocolate one, too, or share it with someone, or give it to someone, and you don’t have to have a whole pie.” The holidays are not just a time for creative inspiration, they are also a time for people to enjoy cooking and eating together, says Moore, who is now remarried with a blended family of four children. Gingerbread is one of his specialties, so a gingerbread house is always a Christmas project. “My daughter and I did a gingerbread house one year for a big gingerbread showcase,” he says. “I built the Parliament Buildings out of gingerbread, this massive thing; I was so in over my head — we always look back and laugh at that. But we still build a gingerbread house at home. I let the kids do it however they want. That’s their thing.” Moore says his grandmother was “a really, really good baker,” producing brandy-soaked Christmas cakes and “burnt butter biscuits (brown butter cookies) with a jam drop in the middle.” He recalls other nostalgic Australian treats, from chocolate-dipped Lamingtons to his mother’s caramel date slice and whimsical “fairy bread” with colourful sprinkles. But Moore leaves the holiday home baking to the family. “I’m so busy baking at work that it’s kind of the last thing I like to do at home, so that’s when I rely on my kids to do baking for me,” he says. “They love making cookies.” Crust sits near the corner of historic Fort and Douglas streets, in a building that has housed a long list of bakeries over many decades. Along with the iconic Dutch Bakery and the Chocolat & Co. collective of local chocolatiers nearby, Crust has a devoted following. Moore says that’s a gift to him, too. “I love the impact I can have, even for a little while, on people’s lives,” he says. “People really get swept up and it changes their day. Most chefs don’t get to experience that satisfaction, and it means a lot to me.”

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simple ways to get into the

holiday spirit The traditions that come with the holidays can feel like a blessing — mostly. But if the winter blues make you feel more like lying low than living it up, it’s time to mix up your must-do-thiswinter list with some fresh revelry, whether it’s out on the town or chilled out at home. Make the best of the weather, rain or shine, and rediscover the joy in this most festive season. By Susan Hollis

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

Get crafty

1LÉA JONES/STOCKSY

MAKERS ABOUND in this city, and they not only offer one-of-a-kind gifts to buy, but are often willing to share their skills, too. Check the listings at local art shops, recreation centres and cafes for entertaining evenings of doit-yourself centrepiece design, ornament crafting or knitting to keep the right side of your brain happy. (Think: handpainted ceramic ornaments at Fired Up! or DIY holiday wreaths at Platinum Floral Design.) Some great websites to check for ideas around this time of year include the downtownvictoria.ca blog, artsvictoria.ca and tourismvictoria.com.

Help others

EVEN WITHOUT a pandemic to highlight the disparities between the haves and have-

nots, winter is a good time to reach out to Victoria’s social agencies to see how you can help those in need. Whether it’s collecting coats and blankets for the homeless or dicing carrots in a soup kitchen, making an effort to help those who are having trouble pulling themselves out of a dire situation is always welcome in this underserviced sector. For more resources and places to volunteer, go to ourplacesociety.com, volunteervictoria.bc.ca or mustardseed.ca.

Bake with friends

1LÉA JONES/STOCKSY

SOME WILL ARGUE that baking is a solo activity, but it can also be a surprisingly fun group sport. Host a bake-a-thon with a few friends by collecting their go-to holiday recipes and ingredients ahead of time, then learning all their techniques and back stories while you bake. The in-person time in the kitchen is a great way to catch up while filling the cookie tins with new goodies. Bring some fancy cellophane bags and ribbons to parcel up gift bags of cookies to share with the people in your life who deserve a little something sweet.

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

Spend a cozy night in

SET THE TONE for a cozy

and comforting holiday season by skipping the fancy dress and hosting a no-phones/nohard pants/no-cutlery candlelit evening with friends. Make a batch of soothing horchata (a creamy Mexican drink of rice and cinnamon, recipe below) and serve delicious finger food, like coconut-crusted prawns, chicken strips or fondue, either cheese and chocolate. Add a few fun games (One Night Ultimate Werewolf, anyone?) and you’ve got yourself a party — but one with no over-the-top holiday meal planning, uncomfortable outfits or fussy decorations to contend with.

Traditional Horchata • 1 1/2 cups white rice • 1 cup whole milk ensed • 1 can (300 mL) sweetened cond milk (if you prefer it less sweet, use half the can) • 2 cinnamon sticks • 5 cups hot water • Ground cinnamon for garnish

n sticks in a mixing bowl. tened condensed milk and cinnamo Combine the rice, whole milk, swee . milk d ense cond the and stir to dissolve gerate Pour hot water into the mixture bowl with plastic wrap, then refri the r Cove re. eratu temp room Allow mixture to cool to ur. night for more concentrated flavo for a minimum of 2 hours or over separate the rice. sticks and strain the mixture to mon cinna the rd disca ting, After refrigera der. Blend for about blen your to d liqui and 1 1/2 cups of the strained rved liquid. If there Reserve the liquid. Add the rice rese the into fied. Strain the blended rice back 3 minutes, or until the rice is lique . d and strain again are any remaining rice bits, blen a sprinkle of cinnamon. Serve over ice and garnish with . of rum, vodka or Kahlúa to each glass Make it boozy by adding half a shot

Optional:

Practise your slapshot

TEMPTED AS ONE MIGHT BE to hibernate for the winter,

Victoria’s mild climate makes it pretty safe to plan outdoor activities all year round. Organize a casual, all-ages street hockey tournament in your neighbourhood (complete with hot chocolate) to get some exercise and fresh air while safely socializing with friends and neighbours. Alternatively, head to any of the local rec centres that offer public ice time for skating and gawking at those who actually know what they’re doing on the ice.

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

Sip something warming

IT IS TRULY A JOY to sit

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in a café enjoying a hot drink — and it’s one we appreciate even more since a pandemic made it impossible. The West Coast seems to breed java houses, and Victoria has a number of excellent options. Caffe Fantastico on Kings Road, Discovery Coffee on Oak Bay Avenue at Amphion Street, Hide + Seek Coffee on Fairfield Road and Habit Coffee in The Atrium are just a few that bring something unique to the café movement. Pick up a few pounds of beans from your favourite café to give as host gifts to help spread the good word about Victoria’s vibrant coffee scene.

Go for a walk

Sarah West and Bill Ethier The Real Estate Team You Trust for Life w: propertiesinvictoria.com I p: 250.920.7000 Personal Real Estate Corporation

Our in-depth knowledge of the market and personalized strategies will put you in the best possible position when buying or selling a home in Victoria.

DEPENDING ON YOUR LEVEL OF FITNESS, a long winter’s walk can mean a heart-pumping hike up Mount Work or Mount Douglas (hiking boots recommended) or a gentle stroll along Oak Bay Avenue. This cheerful boulevard is especially fun between Richmond and Monterey Avenue, where you can shop for gifts and stocking stuffers at independent boutiques like French Vanilla Home, Good Things Consignments, Nicholas Randall and other wonderful shops. Wrap things up with tea and some take-home charcuterie at Ottavio Italian bakery and delicatessen.

Be playful

Sarah West* and Bill Ethier

*Personal Real Estate Corporation

The Real Estate Team You Trust for Life

w: propertiesinvictoria.com The Real Estate Team You Trust for Life p: 250.920.7000 Sarah West, PREC and Bill Ethier w: propertiesinvictoria.com p: 250.920.7000

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

COMMIT TO A DAY OF INDULGENCE, starting with a proper French toast breakfast at Jam Café, Shine Café or The Ruby (or whatever place you might love — there are so many excellent breakfast joints in Victoria). If it’s rainy, check out one of Victoria’s hidden gems, Quazar’s Arcade, for a retro afternoon of pinball and Double Dragon before checking yourself into the most comfy recliners in the downtown core at either the Capitol 6 or Cineplex Odeon movie theatres. If play is still on the menu, try the Interactivity Board Game Café for some oldor new-school games in a cozy room — and, if you like, some game-themed cocktails in the new 19+ section.

Lounge in luxury

Spend time with family

IT CAN BE EASY to take family for granted in the chaos of daily life, so what could be better than capturing memories in a family tree? Invite family members over and ask them to write, draw or just casually jot down as much as they can contribute to the tree. Interview your elders in person or, if not everyone can be together, via Zoom. Write the family story down chronologically, then bust out a big piece of bristol board from The Papery, Monk Office or Island Blue Print Co. and get creative. Have the littlest people add their handprints in colourful paint. Bring a Polaroid camera to document the evening in real time and glue those photos in place as well. It’ll be a night to remember, for all the right reasons.

the dawn of loungewear, get yourself some decent duds to wear in — or out — because the lines have been blurred, friends, and loungewear is no longer for slouches. Nor is it defined by monikered tracksuit bottoms and velour. (Actually, velour is really comfy and should not be mocked.) If we’ve learned anything over the past couple of years, it’s that we’ve earned the right to be comfortable at all times, and relaxed is no longer synonymous with lazy. Find some elegant faves at clothing stores like Ecologyst, Amelia Lee or Hudson’s Bay, or go online and check out the linen and cotton separates from Beaton or Harris Kuipers’ seven-piece, all-black loungewear capsule wardrobe that is both comfortable and luxurious.

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YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

Holiday Greetings

from the

The Victoria Public Market, located in the iconic Hudson’s Bay Building, features farm fresh, locally sourced artisan foods, handcrafted goods and gourmet items — perfect for all your holiday gifts!

1701 Douglas Street | Open Monday-Saturday, 11am–6pm (Individual shop hours may vary.)

We look forward to seeing you!

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Whisk Victoria has all the tools you need to create your holiday treats. From cookie cutters to rolling pins, Dutch ovens to mixing bowls, plus a wide assortment of stocking stuffers, we’ve got something to please every cook or baker on your list.

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ROAST

THE BIKERY

TACO STAND

From our oven to your table — let us do the work and you get the credit this holiday season. Visit our website or give us a call.

The Bikery specializes in pretzels, bagels, pitas and challah. Perfect for lunch on the go or prepping ahead for your weekend meals. All kosher certified, with vegan options available.

Taco Tuesday is our favourite day. Buy 2 tacos = 1 FREE! Have you tried our famous loaded breakfast burrito? It’s legendary.

roastsandwichshop.com 778-433-6639

thebikery.ca

778-432-4775

LA PASTA LA PIZZA

THE CHOCOLATE PROJECT & CIRCLE CANNING

TERIYAKI AND ROLL

Celebrating authentic Italian cuisine where all of our pasta, pizza and sauces are housemade ... it’s the only way! We have a cozy event space to book for an after-hour holiday party, birthday or just because. lapastalapizza.com 250-590-1409

The Chocolate Project features Canada’s largest selection of bean-to-bar chocolate. Let us guide you through our curated collection of over 300 bars. We also carry Circle Canning, a line of seasonal, small-batch artisan canned goods produced in the Hudson Building and sourced from local farmers.

On the go? Stop in to Teriyaki and Roll for a freshly prepared teriyaki bowl, sushi, fried noodles, noodle soup — and much more! Planning a small family gathering this holiday season? Try our inexpensive and delicious party tray. vicexpressteriyakiroll.ca

chocolateproject.ca

victoriapublicmarket.com

HOME + LIFESTYLE

A Home for the Holidays Gleaming white and gold details transform a heritage house for the festive season. By Danielle Pope Photos by Joshua Lawrence

Xela Rysstad and her family spent nearly a decade living in their James Bay house before transforming it into the home of their dreams. Now, as they prepare to spend their first holiday in their renewed space, Rysstad says her house finally looks like the decorations she’s collected for so long. When Rysstad and her husband Dean first found the property as newlyweds, there was nothing like it on the market. It was 120 years old, a legal duplex that doubled as an in-law suite and was perfectly situated near the ocean, parks and downtown. As their family expanded to include two young daughters, however, they were met with a new challenge: Do they list it or concisely choose to live smaller, despite their growing needs? “Our home is tall and skinny. It looks like the San Francisco home you see on episodes of Full House, with these beautiful double bay windows,” says Rysstad. “But we were a family of four in a 1,400-square-foot space. We kept asking, ‘How do we live in here comfortably?’ ”

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

Previous page: The refurbished heritage fire hearth acts as a centrepiece of the living area. Although it’s strictly esthetic, the renovation removed a mortar facade and revealed historic bricks that could easily be painted for a classic look. Cabinet Maker’s Picture Lights from Visual Comfort flank twin arched shelving, for a modern feminine motif. This page: The kitchen remains one of owner Xela Rysstad’s favourite spots in the home, especially during the holidays. Goodman Hanging Light pendants from Visual Comfort bring elegance to the space, and complement the much-needed pot lights and Hudson Valley Lighting Garden City Wall Sconce. White and bright was a theme brought to this space, and Dupont quartz countertops in London Sky offset the Walker Zanger tile backsplash in Café Milk. Opposite: A snapshot of the butler’s pantry showcases the double farmhouse sink, with recessed lighting in the shelving adding light to this small and efficient space.

Rysstad appreciated the home’s ornate Italian style, but she felt like she was always trying to decorate someone else’s house. “I’ve been a serial redecorator, but I’m not sure if that’s because I was in a home that wasn’t quite mine, or if that’s just me,” says Rysstad. “We had teal tiles and black appliances, and there’s only so much you can change with throw pillows and accents. We needed to bring forward a new vision.” This past year, the family finally enlisted the help of Julia Estey, an interior designer with Jenny Martin Design. Rysstad knew she was looking for a transitional design, one that would enhance the classic features of the home — from the crown moulding to the brass details. They needed to keep it light, add storage and bring in a timeless look the family could fall in love with. “I’ve always loved interior design and I had a vision for our home, but I couldn’t get there by myself,” says Rysstad. “What the team created was more beautiful than I could have imagined.” Estey and Rysstad worked together to ensure the home, with its three bedrooms and one-and-ahalf baths, would become as practical as it would be elegant. “Xela has amazing style,” says Estey. “We went with a feminine palette — soft greys and blues. The vision was very functional, though. There wasn’t a lot of square footage to work with, but there was quite a bit of height, so we used that to maximize storage and bring in some special touches, like the arches, to create an elevated look.” Those special features included a custom sliding ladder to access tall cabinetry, as well as the jewel of the kitchen: a La Cornue handcrafted French range in robin’s egg blue. Custom millwork throughout the house enhanced the heritage features, and pot lights were installed to brighten the building. One standout element is the Anewall mural in the girls’ room, as well as the renovated powder room — a space so tiny the team had to custom design a vanity within millimetres. The restored fireplace mantel is another gem, with historic bricks uncovered from beneath a mortar facade.

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

“WHEN YOU HAVE SUCH A SMALL FOOTPRINT TO WORK WITH, THE CHALLENGE IS TRYING TO MAKE THE SPACE LOOK AS GRAND AS POSSIBLE WHILE KEEPING IT OPEN.” — INTERIOR DESIGNER JULIA ESTEY

Although the home only offers 1,400 square feet of space for this family of four, Rysstad and the designers utilized the home’s height by incorporating tall shelving and period-specific crown moulding to draw eyes upward. Storage and lighting were major issues in this project, so subtle adjustments went a long way to improving the home’s functionality. The renovated flooring was another big win: though the aged wood appeared red, the reno revealed white oak flooring that could be refinished and sealed in its natural colour, rather than replaced.

To ensure every family member was cared for, the team even designed a custom understair cat archway for discreet litter box storage. “When you have such a small footprint to work with, the challenge is trying to make the space look as grand as possible while keeping it open,” says Estey. “One area I love is the butler’s pantry. It’s hidden until you go around the kitchen, but it has this beautiful window and farmhouse sink with a Perrin & Rowe faucet — one of the splurge items.” Rysstad says their holidays are usually filled with white, gold and pastels, a “glitter Christmas” she’s excited to pull off for the first time in a home that mirrors the decor. One treasured touch this season, however, will be the custom table they had built that extends to seat 10 people. “We’ve never been able to host everyone in one place before, so I am really excited to have us all gather,” says Rysstad. “This is the first home I’ve lived in that finally feels like a reflection of who I am. I think we’ll have a cozy, peaceful holiday season, enjoying family time, hanging up stockings for the girls and making our own kind of sparkling Copenhagen space this season.”

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

Above: The powder room was one of the smallest spaces the team had to work with, but elevated its style with quartz countertops (in London Sky) to parallel the kitchen’s, and Tierra Sol Soho White Penny Round classic tiles for the flooring. Feature wallpaper by Serena and Lily in Palmetto Bone adds flourish to this nook. Right: A small but striking feature of the home is the custom cat door under the stairs, strategically placed to give the family’s fourlegged friend privacy when needed, and to keep the litter box out of sight. The entryway is adorned with Euro Ceramic Tile, from the porcelain More Series, and a Hampton Medium Chandelier from Visual Comfort.

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Cindy’s services can address: • downsizing/ decluttering • space planning • decor • plants • artwork and colours • energy work • crystals • aroma

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pillows | duvets | covers | sheets Great selection from Daniadown, Revelle, Cuddle Down, Brunelli, Pokoloko, Laundress and more!

sweetdreamsboutique.com 250 383 6133 636 Broughton St, Victoria

250 656 0510 2492 Beacon Ave, Sidney YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

YOUR NEXT

HOLIDAY STAYCATION

AWAITS ON

FAIRMONT GOLD

The most joyful season of the year has arrived! Christmas at the Empress is a quintessential Victoria experience, not to be missed.

Plan your festive season at fairmont-empress.com

COMPLETE EYE EXAMINATIONS BY BY OPTOMOTRISTS OPTOMETRISTS

DR. JASON MAYCOCK DR. TOBY VALLANCE

DR. MANDY LETKEMANN DR. NICK CATCHUK

Now that Rysstad’s girls share a room, she says she’s delighted by the moments when they put signs on their door saying things like “secret club.” The custom-created Anewall mural offers an element of fantasy in this playful area, and bunk beds allow the girls connected autonomy.

RESOURCES Designer: Jenny Martin Design Construction manager: Price Perry Electrician: Campbell Electric Kitchen/bathroom millwork and custom millwork: Thomas Philips Woodworking Floor refinishing: Cherry Point Hardwood Floors Countertops: FloForm Countertops

CLIENT: MAYCOCK EYECARE PUBLICATION: YAM MAGAZINE SHIPPING DATE: APRIL 2021; AD SIZE: 4.94” x 4.7”

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

WHERE IT ALL HAPPENS Over the years, Langford has flourished and attracted international retail stores, smaller owner-operated boutique shops and cultivated a vibrant, chef-owned restaurant scene. With its unique geography and quaint downtown core, Langford is packed with welcoming patios and eclectic menus that are perfect for connecting with family or celebrating with friends. For a directory of Langford shops and restaurants, visit:

langford.ca

EVERYTHING TASTES BETTER WITH

HOB SAUCE

"Stay Connected from a distance

Fill your family’s stockings with a culinary treat! H

E ULLY P

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DIY

Charcuterie SIMPLE YET STYLISH, A TERRINE MAKES AN IMPRESSIVE STARTER — AND IT’S A DISH YOU CAN CREATE IN YOUR OWN KITCHEN. JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

By Cinda Chavich

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

hink of a terrine as a meatloaf dressed up for a party. Moulded and baked terrines — or potted rillettes and pâtés — are the perfect appetizers to make ahead and have on hand for impromptu holiday guests. And once you understand the technique of constructing a basic terrine, the possibilities are endless. Whether it’s a rustic country terrine wrapped in pancetta, a rosy smoked salmon terrine, a mushroom-studded chicken terrine or a fancy pâté en croute, a terrine can be a combination of modest ingredients, or an elaborate loaf, beautifully layered, to slice and present as a first course for a holiday buffet or a casual lunch. A silky chicken liver mousse makes a succulent spread, and your own terrine maison adds instant cachet to a simple cheese and charcuterie board. It takes a little time and planning to make a traditional terrine or pâté, but it’s easy to do and our local artisan butchers offer unlimited inspiration.

TERRINES AROUND TOWN Terrines and pâtés have long been creative outlets for chefs and butchers — a way to upcycle trim, liver and other offal into a product that is more than the sum of its humble parts. Chef Paul van Trigt creates the charcuterie for Agrius and Fol Epi, including the salami for their takeout pizzas and cured meats for their housemade charcuterie boards. He calls the terrine “the Cinderella of meatloaf.” “Terrines are my favourite,” says van Trigt, whose specialty is pâté en croute, artistic meaty compositions encased in pastry. “It’s really fun to play with all of the different textures and fancy inlays.” You can pick up a slice of his latest creation from the deli/bakery counter at Fol Epi on Yates or follow his @pvtcharcuterie account for a parade of elaborate examples to inspire your own terrine making, from pork and pancetta studded with figs to chicken and preserved lemon crowned with herbs or rabbit and walnut terrine wrapped in bacon. There’s always a new terrine to try.

Impress your guests (or just yourself) with this luxurious Haus Sausage Co. pork and duck pâté en croute with sage, apricot and chicken jelly. Serve it with made-in-house candied almonds, bread-and-butter pickles, cheeses such as aged gouda and St. Andre, all available at Haus Sausage Co.

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

DOMHALL MEDIA JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

“I want people to know that pâtés and terrines are not just for a party — people can just grab a piece and have it for lunch.” Terrines make a “I want people to know that pâtés and terrines lovely addition to are not just for a party — people can just grab a a holiday spread, piece and have it for lunch,” he says. whether you make They are also classic nose-to-tail creations, them yourself or using leftovers and off-cuts to eliminate waste, purchase them. which is why so many of the city’s whole-animal Three ideas to try (clockwise from top butchers have turned to terrines. left): duck and pork Kelli Tebo is the chef behind the artful terrines pâté en croute from at Haus Sausage Co., an old-world-style butcher Haus Sausage Co.; shop specializing in humanely raised heritage pork with fig and meats. Tebo says she started her experiments rosemary from The with simple country terrines and now regularly Whole Beast; and hazelnut and bacon creates beautiful pâté en croute, like her maple terrine by chef Paul bacon terrine with whole hard-cooked egg to van Tright. slice for breakfast, or a recent ramen-inspired terrine made with BBQ pork char siu. “These pâté en croute are just a canvas for whatever I have to work with every week,” says Tebo, whose terrines are sold by the slice at the Haus Sausage Co. shop and included on their charcuterie boards. Though she’s often inspired by Instagram photos of elaborate layered terrines, Tebo says experience has taught her to keep things simple, with just two or three elements and classic spicing. “We have a good sausage program here, and I get nice pork grinds, foie gras, offal from lamb and pigs, duck and game meats,” she says. “I like to blend whatever livers we have with milk and add a small portion to the pork to give it an airy texture — adding some foie parfait into a chicken terrine binds it really well.”

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

Country pork and turkey terrine

This is a simple, rustic terrine, perfect to serve cold with salad, bread, pickled beets and gherkins for a lunch or first course, or to slice for the charcuterie board. Note that you will need a 9 x 5-inch loaf pan or two 8 x 3-inch terrine moulds for this recipe.

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• 1 pound double-smoked bacon, thinly sliced (or 1/2 pound bacon and 1/2 pound thinly sliced prosciutto) • 1 large onion, quartered • 3 cloves garlic • 1/4 cup brandy or sherry • 1/4 cup minced Italian parsley • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage • 1/2 teaspoon salt • 1 teaspoon peppercorns, coarsely cracked • 1 pound ground pork • 1 pound ground turkey • 1 egg, lightly beaten • 3/4 cup hazelnuts, toasted and roughly chopped, or shelled pistachios, halved Preheat oven to 300°F. Set aside eight strips of bacon. Chop the remaining bacon, then place it in the food processor with the onion, garlic and brandy. Process until fairly smooth. Mix in herbs, salt and peppercorns. (Alternatively, process the half pound of chopped bacon with onion, garlic and brandy, and use the sliced prosciutto to line the mould.) In a bowl, combine the ground pork and turkey with the egg and mix with your hands until well combined. Stir in the bacon/onion purée and the nuts. Line a 9 x 5-inch loaf pan or two 8 x 3-inch terrine moulds with reserved bacon strips (or sliced prosciutto), letting the ends hang over the edges of the pan. Pack the meat mixture into the pan, pressing firmly and mounding slightly, then fold the bacon ends over the top. Cut a piece of parchment to fit on top, then cover the pan tightly with foil and place in a roasting pan, filled with 2 inches of hot water. Bake in the preheated oven for 2 hours, or until the terrine tests 160°F at the centre, using an instant read thermometer. Remove from the oven, cool slightly and drain excess fat into a measuring cup. The terrine should be compressed at this point, so place another similar-sized pan on top of the pâté (or cut a piece of cardboard the same size of the pan, wrap in foil, and place on top), then top with a heavy can or other weight and refrigerate overnight. The terrine is best if chilled for 2 days before serving. The terrine will keep up to five days in the refrigerator and may be frozen. Serves 8 to 10.

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YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

That’s the formula for a classic French terrine forcemeat mixture, says Cory Pelan, the chef/owner of The Whole Beast, where you’ll find pork brawn, duck pâté and a rotating terrine of the week. “For me, a terrine is always liver based,” says Pelan, who uses pork, chicken and turkey livers for terrines and pâtés, including his popular chicken liver parfait. “That’s the tradition and reason behind making terrines, using up things like liver, bacon and pork trim in the restaurant kitchen or butcher shop,” he says. “But it’s also important for authentic flavour.”

TRUCS OF THE TRADE I asked some of our local pâté makers for their advice and learned a few important trucs from the charcuterie trade. The words “terrine” and “pâté” are often used interchangeably. But strictly speaking, pâté is the ground forcemeat or farce, sometimes wrapped in pastry (en croute), baked in a loaf or puréed with additional fat for spreadable consistency. The terrine is the vessel in which the pâté is baked, usually a long and narrow loaf pan made of heavy enamelled cast iron or crockery. Even a vintage Pyrex loaf pan makes a great terrine mould. For a complex pâté en croute, a special hinged baking tin (that opens easily) is important. Moulds are usually lined with something that will encase the terrine once it’s unmoulded — if not pastry, then thin pieces of bacon or pancetta, prosciutto or even lightly blanched chard leaves, draped over the bottom and sides and folded over the top to cover the finished terrine on all sides. Lining the mould with plastic wrap first makes unmoulding easier. You don’t want the meat to brown, so baking a terrine must be low and slow, in a water bath or bain-marie. “You want it to cook slowly and evenly, at 200°F or 250°F,” says Pelan. “It can take a couple of hours. If you cook it too hot or too fast, the liver in the farce will get grainy.” That farce, or forcemeat — the raw, ground mixture that’s the base of any terrine — can be a coarse or smooth grind, but fat is an important component. Fattier meats (pork belly and shoulder or chicken thighs) work best, with some liver or other binding agent, like a panade of bread and milk. A touch of curing salt helps to maintain a rosy colour. “You want the mixture to be homogenized and consistent,” says Tebo, who says the ideal ratio is 70 per cent meat and 30 per cent fat for most terrines. Van Trigt recommends salting ground meats the night before mixing up the forcemeat in a stand mixer, to make a stickier emulsion. Pelan uses a high-powered Vitamix blender, and lots of butter, for his silky chicken liver parfait. Any larger pieces of meat that are layered into the terrine should be precooked, whether smoked ham or duck confit. Other additions, including nuts, dried fruit, caramelized onions

and sautéed mushrooms, should be cut small, about a finger-nail-sized cube at most, says Pelan. Once the terrine is baked, it should be compressed under a weight and chilled overnight. Potted pâtés, on the other hand, should be sealed with a layer of pork or duck fat, or clarified butter. Cut terrines can oxidize and brown quickly, so it’s best to vacuum pack your terrine, whole or by the slice. A terrine will keep for a week in the refrigerator or longer if frozen. Country terrines are easy to master but learning to make a perfect pâté en croute takes practice, says van Trigt. “The Instagram photos don’t show the crust bursting open or getting a leak, and the crumbly pâtés,” he says. “I’m still doing lots of reading and trying new things.”

Although terrines evolved as a way to use up meat trim, they can also be vegetarian, as in this pretty asparagus, basil and zucchini terrine.

STOCKFOOD/NEWS LIFE MEDIA

THE STYLISH CHARCUTERIE

Terrines and pâtés offer endlessly versatile options for the appetizer course. For vegetarians, there are roasted vegetable terrines, layered with herbs and cream cheese, or buttery sautéed mushroom pâtés. There are many ways to serve terrines — sliced as a first course, cubed as an appetizer, presented on a charcuterie board, even in a BLT slider or Vietnamese banh mi. So, try a terrine from a local butcher or create your own pâté maison — a beautiful meatloaf, with stylish French flair!

ushroom pâté

This spreadable vegetarian pâté features a mixture of wild and cultivated mushrooms. For a gluten-free option, replace the breadcrumbs with toasted ground walnuts or cashews. • 3 tablespoons olive oil • 2 cups minced onions • 4 cloves garlic, minced • 1 pound mixed mushrooms (portobello, shiitake, oyster, white and/or brown) • 1/2 cup dried breadcrumbs • 1/2 cup white wine • 3 fresh bay leaves • 1 teaspoon dried thyme • 1/2 cup butter • 1 teaspoon sriracha sauce (or other hot sauce) or to taste • 1 tablespoon soy sauce • generous pinch freshly ground nutmeg • 2 tablespoons brandy • 1 tablespoon organic baking powder • salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

In a heavy saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat and sauté the minced onions and garlic for 10 minutes until softened and just starting to brown. Chop the mushrooms into large chunks and place in a food processor, pulsing until finely chopped. (If using portobellos, use a teaspoon to scrape out most of the dark gills first.) Add mushrooms to the sautéed onions and cook together over low heat for 15 minutes. Combine the breadcrumbs and wine.

Add the breadcrumb mixture, bay leaves, thyme and butter to the mushrooms and stir to combine well. Continue to cook over low heat for about 15 minutes, or until the mixture is quite dry. Remove from heat, mix in the sriracha, soy sauce, nutmeg, brandy and baking powder. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon mushroom pâté into individual small jars or bowls, cover and refrigerate or freeze for storage. To serve, spread on crackers or a baguette. Makes about 3 cups.

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

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Salmon and white fish terrine with chard

This is a pretty pink terrine — layers of delicate white fish mousse and salmon, encased in greens. I made it with wild ling cod, sockeye salmon and chard leaves, but you could also use halibut in the mousse and large spinach or lettuce leaves to enclose the mousse. Note that you will need a small loaf pan or terrine mould for this dish. FISH MOUSSE: • 1 pound white fish fillet (cod, halibut, etc.) • 1/2 cup cream • 1/2 teaspoon salt • 2 egg whites • 1 egg yolk • 1 tablespoon brandy

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YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

TERRINE: • 10 large chard leaves, stiff ribs removed • 1 pound sockeye salmon fillet (skin on, if possible) • salt and pepper • 3 tablespoons butter • 3 tablespoons white wine Preheat oven to 300°F. Make the mousse: In a food processor, combine the white fish, cream, salt, egg whites, egg yolk and brandy. Whirl until puréed. Set aside. Bring a pot of water to a boil, remove from heat and stir in the greens to blanch. Immediately lift out of the water with a slotted spoon and place in a bowl of ice water to cool. Drain well. Set aside. Using a sharp knife, thinly slice the salmon fillet at an angle, removing the slices from the skin as you go. Set aside. Butter a small loaf pan or mould and line the bottom and sides with 2/3 of the blanched greens. Take half of the sliced salmon and overlap in the bottom of the pan. Season with salt and pepper. Pour the fish mousse over top, then top with the remaining sliced salmon, and season again with salt and pepper. Fold the blanched greens over top, then top with the remaining leaves. Dot with bits of butter, drizzle with wine, then cover the pan with foil, sealing the edges. Place terrine in a larger pan and fill the pan with hot water, coming about halfway up the sides of the terrine. Bake for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until set. Remove from the pan, cool on a rack, then refrigerate for at least 4 hours before unmoulding and slicing the terrine. Serves 8.

Pork rillettes

This spreadable pork pâté is easy to make — all you need is a highly marbled cut of pork (such as pork belly or pork shoulder with extra fat), and time. • 2 pounds fatty pork belly or shoulder (about 30% to 40% fat) • 2 teaspoons salt • 4 shallots, chopped • 3 large cloves garlic, minced • bouquet garni: 3 sprigs fresh thyme, 4 sage leaves, 2 bay leaves, 1 sprig rosemary, tied with a string • 6 whole peppercorns • 4 allspice berries • clarified butter for sealing (optional) Preheat oven to 275°F. Cut the meat into 1-inch cubes and place in a heavy ovenproof pan. Add salt and mix well. Mix in the chopped shallots and garlic. Set aside for 15 minutes. Add the bouquet garni, peppercorns and allspice. Pour in enough cold water to barely cover the meat. On the stovetop, bring mixture to a boil over high heat. Cover the pan (with a lid or foil) and place in the oven to braise for 3 to 4 hours, removing the lid after about 2 hours. Return the pan to the stovetop and simmer over medium low heat until most of the liquid has evaporated. Discard herbs. Using a fork or potato masher, mash the meat to form a chunky purée. Pack it into small canning jars, pressing down so that the liquid/fat rises to the top. If needed, pour in enough clarified butter to seal rillettes under a layer of fat. Chill for up to 2 weeks or freeze. Bring to room temperature before serving with toasts or crackers. Makes about 2 cups.

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Gift Guide

GET INSPIRED BY THESE GREAT GIFT IDEAS! Lumette’s 0.00% non-alcohol spirits make perfect holiday cocktails as a replacement for a gin or rum spirit. Available at private liquor stores, gourmet food shops and some grocery retailers. LUMETTE! NON-ALC SPIRITS Made in Sooke, B.C.

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With over 50 flavours ranging from the traditional to the most creative sweet and savoury, as well as nine Christmas macarons, everyone will find something to their taste to celebrate. BON MACARON PATISSERIE 1012 Broad Street 778-265-0850 bonmacaron.com

The Butchart Gardens 12-Month Pass The perfect holiday gift for the whole family! Looking for a gift to be enjoyed year round? Give a 5-seasons experience from The Butchart Gardens, with an Adult, Youth or Child 12-Month Pass. Adult Pass only $65.60 + tax. THE BUTCHART GARDENS 250-652-4422 butchartgardens.com

Supporting local, made easy Country Bee always has something unique to offer, like local honey, artisan creations, and home goods with ample charm. Try their honey sleeves for last-minute corporate gifts! COUNTRY BEE HONEY FARM 6440 West Saanich Road, Saanichton 250-580-0263 countrybeehoney.ca

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Memorable gifts from British Columbia!

Give the gift of custom shoes!

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Handmade, natural skincare and lifestyle products, from stocking stuffer items starting at $6.95 to tailored skincare kits and under-the-tree treasures, such as our West Coast Candle (shown here) for $22. Call us for our recommendations! NEZZA NATURALS 587 Johnson Street 250-388-9171 nezzanaturals.com

Holiday Parties

101

Forgotten how to entertain? We’re here to help. By Joanne Sasvari

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

PHOTOS: LUMINA/STOCKSY

all those Zoom happy hours and restricted social bubbles taught us one thing, it’s just how important our friends and family are. Now, at long last, we can welcome the people we love back into our homes, just in time for fall and winter celebrations. Problem is, all those months of social isolation have taken a toll on our hosting skills. Not to worry. We’ve got you. YAM has checked in with some of our favourite Victoria entertaining experts for the latest on how socializing has changed at this uncertain stage of the pandemic. “We’re more chilled out and expectations are lower, but that gives us more opportunity to connect with guests,” says Leslie Shewring, local design visionary and coauthor (with Holly Becker) of the book Decorate for a Party: Stylish and Simple Ideas for Meaningful Gatherings. “It’s given us a green light just to have these lowpressure events. And you don’t have to invite everybody to everything. It’s so nice.” Event designer Marika Whitehead agrees. “We’ve been through so much in the last 16 to 18 months; everyone is just craving that social interaction. I think gatherings are going to take off in a big way,” she says. The good news is that, in many ways, entertaining is easier than ever. After all, we’re just happy to see each other, so who needs all the bells and whistles? The bad news is that you’ll still have to expect the unexpected and be prepared to, yes, pivot. Before you send your invites, here’s what you need to know.

DÉCOR: USE THE GOOD STUFF Shewring anticipates that events will continue to be small and simple, but that doesn’t mean they can’t also be special. “With these smaller gatherings, I still want to set a mood, but I don’t want to go crazy. Just some fresh flowers or some branches. Candles. Bring out your good dishes for four of you. Iron four napkins — you don’t have to iron 20,” she says. “Get the good stuff and enjoy it. It’s simpler but more mindful and thoughtful.” Shewring also expects that we will continue to entertain outdoors well into the winter, and suggests stocking up on cozy blankets, patio heaters, romantic lighting and warming food and drink. Most of all, she advises hosts to prepare as much as possible ahead of time, and “don’t set too high an expectation, especially now, after the pandemic. At a successful party, you as the host aren’t stressed out, and your guests feel that connection to you. It should be the kind of event where you don’t feel like you have to recover, unless you have too many cocktails,” Shewring says. “Just order takeout and take it outdoors.”

“With these smaller gatherings, I still want to set a mood, but I don’t want to go crazy.”

LUMINA/STOCKSY

FUN AND GAMES Not that the pandemic is completely done with us just yet. Whitehead anticipates that it will continue to affect parties this season, especially for gatherings over 20 people. “That’s where the personal comfort comes into play,” says the owner of Rock Paper Square, an interior and event design company that specializes in wedding planning.

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YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

“We might have new restrictions in place. It’s a weird grey area, about how we’re going to plan that guest list. It’s less that hosts are worried about themselves, and more about the comfort of their guests.” She expects weddings and personal events will still go ahead, “but on a smaller scale,” while many corporate events won’t be booked until late in the season, if at all. One way she suggests allaying fears is to offer prepackaged, individual meals guests can take to their bubble tables, making them special with ribbons and calligraphy name tags. “It’s those personal little touches,” Whitehead says. The pandemic can even be a source of fun and party games, she says. “Maybe it’s written-down questions about anything pandemic related ... having positive takes on the pandemic, like, What did you gain by slowing down? or What you were most thankful for?”

A gorgeous collection of Irish knits, clothing, jewelry and gifts for everyone.

SUPPORT LOCAL When it comes to décor, Whitehead recommends supporting community by using local flowers, branches or plants and other products, rather than ordering mass-produced items online. “Maybe using cedar boughs that have blown down in a storm,” she suggests.

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That goes for food and drinks as well. It’s more important than ever to support local farmers, food producers, winemakers and distillers. They are our neighbours, too. “Committing to the seasons and farm-fresh foods and seasonal entertaining has never been more relevant,” Shewring says. “Find a way to support local restaurants. I think you can have friends over and do it really simply in a way you’ve never done before.” Meanwhile, at Toque Catering, using local ingredients “is all we do,” says chef-owner Nicholas Waters. “People are looking to support local for sure.”

The Finnish saunahouse tradition is coming to downtown Victoria.

O P E N I N G W I N T E R 2 0 21

R I T U A L N O R D I C S PA . C O M

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

NOSTALGIC FOOD, INTIMATE DINNERS Waters is also expecting smaller gatherings this season. He’s planning “more sit-downs rather than cocktails. Really intimate. And I think a lot of people are still a little scared. It’ll be a different type of Christmas.” He adds: “Usually I’ll send out a chef, and a chef can do both [cooking and serving] for up to 10 people. Sometimes there will be a server as well. And a lot of drop-offs.” He’s seeing a nostalgic flavour to menus. “A lot of people are going back to home cooking,” he says. “Less pretentious. Going back to what they had as a kid.” Think: mashed potatoes, roasted vegetables, “deeper flavours, more rich, a lot of braised food.” He’s also noticed that because people are hosting fewer people, they have more money to spend on finer food, better wine and fancier décor. After all, Waters says, “People who book are people who want to have fun and want good food.” Whitehead has seen the same trend and says, “People are going all out. I personally love it.” Another reason you might find yourself spending more is that things are simply more expensive. “Food prices are just going up because of COVID. Beef tenderloin has gone up $20 a kilo,” Waters says. Also beware that supply chains are still really backed up, so be prepared for delays and plan well ahead.

of Never underestimate the power good lingerie on a bad day. That goes for booking your caterer, too. In August, Waters was already getting bookings for the holidays, and notes that he will be doing fewer events this year. “We’re going to be really limited because of staffing and even for mental health reasons,” he says.

BATCH, POUR AND CONNECT Signature cocktails are still a major trend, but you shouldn’t spend the evening shaking and stirring instead of having fun with your friends. “A lot of people get caught up in the magic of watching a bartender making a drink, and they don’t realize how much work it is,” says Shawn Soole, bar manager of Clive’s Classic Lounge and author of The BC Spirits Cocktail Book. “You’ve got to do the pre-batch. The pre-batch is where it’s at. Batch and pour.” Instead of making cocktails to order, prepare them in volume ahead of time and store in easy-to-pour bottles in the fridge. That way, Soole says, “You’ve got a really, really good cocktail without a lot of work. That and punch bowls and jugs. I really think the punch bowl is going to make a big comeback.” As for what to serve, you can’t really go wrong with classics like martinis and Manhattans, or the easy, crowd-pleasing “sour” family of cocktails, including the White Lady, daiquiri and margarita. Most importantly, you should be out mingling with your guests. “You don’t want to be stuck behind a bar making drinks for everyone,” Soole says. You shouldn’t be stuck in the kitchen, either. No one cares if you spent all day making your famous cassoulet. They just want to spend time with you.

“The prebatch is where it’s at. Batch and pour.”

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YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

MELANIE DEFAZIO/STOCKSY

O U T L OOKS

D E S I G N L

Whether your style is subtle sophistication, classic elegance or modern simplicity, we’ve got you covered.

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Zucchini + Yam Fritters with Garlic Herbed Yogurt

Upholstery and slipcovers

These vegan and gluten-free fritters by Britt Buntain of Picot Collective can be prepped ahead of time then quickly fried when your guests arrive. They are as perfect for brunch (topped with a poached egg) as they are for cocktail hour.

Tip: If you don’t have oat flour on hand, you can add 1/2 cup of large flake rolled oats to a food processor to create homemade oat flour. Chickpea flour works well, too.

For your home, office or yacht

PHOTOS: AMANDA CRIBDON

Using a cheese grater, grate the zucchini and the yam. You should have 1 cup of grated yam. Mince the garlic and finely slice the green onions. You’ll need to remove the water content of the zucchini by squeezing all the liquid out of it. You can do this using a mesh bag or cheesecloth. Too much moisture left over in the zucchini can result in soggy fritters! Lay the cheesecloth out on a surface and add a handful of the shredded zucchini and a pinch of salt. Wrap the cheesecloth around the zucchini and squeeze out as much liquid as you can. Do this in batches. You should have 2 cups of dehydrated grated zucchini. Add the zucchini, yam, garlic, onions, 1 teaspoon salt, parsley, lemon juice, zest, oat flour and nutritional yeast to a large mixing bowl. Whisk egg in a separate bowl, then add to the larger bowl and mix all ingredients together. (Recipe can be prepared ahead of time to this point.) Heat avocado oil over medium heat in a frying pan. Scoop 1/4 cup portions of the batter into the frying pan and flatten out using the back of a spoon. Let the fritters cook for 4 to 5 minutes before flipping them over. Repeat with the remaining batter. Serve right away with Garlic Herbed Yogurt.

KAROLINA GNAT / PICOT COLLECTIVE

• 2 zucchini • 1/2 yam, peeled • 2 garlic cloves • 2 green onions • 1 teaspoon plus a pinch sea salt • 2 tablespoon freshly chopped parsley • 2 tablespoon lemon juice • zest of 1/2 lemon • 1/2 cup oat flour • 1/4 cup nutritional yeast • 1 egg • 1 tablespoon avocado oil for frying the fritters

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Garlic Herbed Yogurt • 1/3 cup Greek yogurt • 1 clove finely minced garlic • 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley • 1 tablespoon finely chopped green onions Mix the above ingredients together and keep in the fridge until ready to use. Use as a dip or spread for your fritters.

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YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

SIGNATURE COCKTAILS

JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

Give your party verve with signature cocktails, but make your life easy by batching them ahead of time. Try these two classic crowd pleasers: a martini that’s perfectly chilled and ready to pour, and a simple, citrus-based sour. Recipes by Shawn Soole, bar manager of Clive’s Classic Lounge.

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bite. Reducing holiday food waste starts with rethinking how we shop. Turkey leftovers are only loved for so long, so size your bird accordingly—and your sides, too! LET’S STOP WASTING FOOD.

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YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

Frozen Gin Martini • 1 2/3 cups (400 mL) gin • 3/4 cup (200 mL) dry vermouth (less, if you prefer a drier martini) • 1 tablespoon (15 mL) orange bitters • 1/2 cup (125 mL) purified water Mix ingredients together, bottle and freeze overnight. To serve, pour 3 to 4 oz in a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with olives or a lemon twist. Makes 3 cups (750 mL), or enough for 6 to 8 servings.

Batched White Lady • 6 cups (1500 mL) gin • 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) simple syrup (see note) • 2 1/4 cups (550 mL) fresh-squeezed and strained lemon juice • 2 cups (500 mL) purified water Place all ingredients in a large bowl, bucket or jug. Stir, then bottle and refrigerate. To serve: Stir or shake well and pour 4 oz (120 mL) into a chilled coupe. Garnish with a lemon wheel. Makes 3L or enough for 24 servings. Note: To make simple syrup, combine 1 1/2 cups water with 1 1/2 cups sugar in a pot over medium heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until sugar is fully dissolved. Cool to room temperature or chill before using.

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

STYLE WATCH

Warm Up to Winter There may be a chill in the air, but you’ll stay warm, cozy and oh, so stylish in these luxurious knitwear pieces. Fashion Stylist: Janine Metcalfe

•

Photos by Jeffrey Bosdet

Previous page: A pink crochet all-day cami dress by Volcom is worn over a forest green turtleneck by 24 Colours and under the Islia cardigan by Saint Tropez. The textured look is topped off with the Rosa toque by Mus & Bombon. All pieces available at Amelia Lee Boutique. This page: Mea merino wool sweater by Baserange is layered over a striped linen skirt by Ichi Antiquites, then finished with a botanical-dyed bandana by Tannin and Toil, all from Open House. Opposite page: A sweet green blouse and rugged knit sweater paired with tough chic Kaylee leather shorts, all by Soaked in Luxury and available at Frances Grey.

This page: Luukaa cashmere cardigan coat in petrol and Clemence cashmere sweater in henna, both available at Hughes Clothing. Opposite page: Dark grey trousers and vest by MKT Clothing Co., both from Frances Grey, and a Morgan turtleneck by Up! Pants, from Moden Boutique, are layered under a super soft merino Aran sweater and plaid Dunloe swing jacket paired with matching flapper hat, both by Mucros Weavers, available at Out of Ireland. Page 8: Madison Noble jacket by Ayrtight, Dundee suede pant by I Love Tyler Madison, Tuesday bib by Soaked in Luxury and Morgan turtleneck by Up! Pants, all available at Moden Boutique.

Model: Claire Bates/Lizbell Agency Hair & makeup: Anya Ellis/Lizbell Agency Thank you to John and Lorraine of Parry Bay Sheep Farm in Metchosin.

CREATE

JOY

ALL YEAR LONG Bring joy to others, and the person who benefits most might just be you.

DAVE WALLACE/RIPTIDE

By Erin Skillen

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

art of the magic of the holidays is the celebration of joy and the focus it brings to our connections with others. So, if we’re living in a tough time full of hard things we can’t control, what would happen if we created joy all year, and not just during the holidays? YAM explores the science behind joy and talks with three local creators about intentionally creating these positive energy bursts year round, improving our own health along the way. Joy can make us happier. There is some discussion around the difference between happiness and joy, but the consensus is that joy is a moment, an emotional response that can exist with or without happiness. Meanwhile, happiness is a longer term pattern of emotion that occurs over time and includes joy within it. You can experience joy without being happy, but it’s hard to be happy without at least some joy. The more joy we have in our lives, the more likely we are to be happy. Joy can make us healthier. When we experience a joyful moment, our brain releases our natural happiness chemicals, dopamine and serotonin, which benefits both our mind and our body. The circulatory and nervous systems respond with an increased heart rate, flushed cheeks or happy tears, which can improve sleeping, eating and digestion. And we don’t have to sit around waiting for someone else to create an act of joy for us to reap these benefits. Studies show that doing kind and thoughtful gestures for others is more physically and psychologically rewarding than receiving them yourself.

MEET THE JOY CREATORS These three know just how to bring joy to life: Justin Love makes music with light. Kristi Nelson finds happiness lurking under a rock. And Clementine Hiltner thinks we should all pet a puppy, asap.

JUSTIN LOVE CEO, LIMBIC MEDIA

Visitors to The Butchart Gardens play along in delight as the Singing Tree responds to music.

While you may not have heard of local company Limbic Media, chances are you’ve seen — or even enjoyed — some of their work. They created the well-known Singing Tree at The Butchart Gardens, which is decorated with lights that interact with people singing, clapping or playing instruments. When it was first set up, Limbic CEO Justin Love brought a friend to film it in use, expecting that no one else would be playing with the tree. He was delighted to be wrong. “Time after time, people came up and started belting out songs, and it just blew my mind how people actually engaged with it the way that we imagined,” he says. “It didn’t take much encouragement.” Two of their joy-inducing projects live in an unexpected location — the Canadian Tire store at Hillside Centre. “I had this 60-foot panel of glass on the outside,” says store owner Justin Young. “I’d walk in every day and I’d go, ‘You know what, this is boring. It’s a nice piece of glass canvas. Let’s do something with it.’” Now, when the sun goes down, the store’s facade bursts into pulsating lights. Its success led to a second collaboration, a “light curtain” cascading from the second floor to the first, with a control panel in the kids’ department available for anyone to become a lighting designer playing with colour, patterns and more. Whether you’re using a screen or your voice to interact with light and sound, science shows that these installations are a powerful physiological experience. “There’s been tons of research where the more senses that you combine simultaneously, the more powerful emotional impact you have,” says Love. “They have this extra power about them because it touches us at a cellular level.” Love and his Limbic team are inspired in part by the emotional response to their interactive art, which motivates them to keep creating and innovating new experiences for people to enjoy where they least expect them. “I think we do bring a lot of joy and delight and magic into the world,” says Love.

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

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Clementine Hiltner PRESIDENT, PACIFIC ANIMAL THERAPY SOCIETY FAREWEL

FAREWELL

WE ARE CLOSING OUR STORE DECEMBER

physical and health WE ARE CLOSING OUR he STORE DECEMBER 01,mental 2021 benefits of interacting with animals Forty years ago on December 1st, I began my life in immense, a side of Forty years ago on December 1st, Iare began my life inbut retail with effect the opening of ISunday’s Snow�lakes. I was opening of Sunday’s Snow�lakes. was fortunate enough to also open a tight rental market is that manyfortunate en — Established 2005 — Curves Lingerie, Something More and Sunday’s Snow�lakes here and Sunday’s Sno Curves Lingerie, Something More animal lovers can’t find pet-friendly at Mattick’s Farm. 714 View Street 250-385-6676 sapphiredayspa.com sapphiredayspa housing. Meanwhile, many others can’t at Mattick’s Farm. care for their own pets for other reasons. I have made many friends during this time and feel very The Animal Society lucky to have spent a big part of myPacific life doing what I Therapy love. I have made many friends during this time and feel (PATS) created to make pets more I am grateful and proud to have had thewas opportunity lucky to have spent a big part my most. life doing what to share these experiences with my amazing staff, available to those who needofthem customers, colleagues, and community PATS is aproud volunteer-run organization I amsuppliers grateful and to have had the opportuni who have supported me over the years. on “pets visiting people.” to share focused these experiences with my amazing staff, President Clementine Hiltner first Saying farewell is the hardest part. customers, colleagues, suppliers and community THANK YOU I would like to take a momentgot to involved as a For the sweet times 5325 Cordova Bay Rd, have supported me over the years. volunteer for one-onthank you all for who the great time. and memories we Victoria BC V8Y 2L3 shared together! I have had a fabulous ride! one sessions. She wasT e l : 2 5 0 - 6 5 8 - 8 4 9 9 matched is with a young sundayssnowflakes@shaw.ca Saying farewell the hardest part. WE ARE CLOSING OUR STORE DECEMBER 01, 2021 THANK YOU woman who was coping I would like to take a moment to For the sweet times w w w . s u nand d a y s n o w fl a k e s . c o m with depression Forty years WE ago ARE on December I began lifememories in retail CLOSING 1st, OUR STOREmy DECEMBER 01,with 2021 thank you all for the great time. and wethe anxiety. Each week they opening of Sunday’s Snow�lakes. I was fortunate enough to also open shared together! would get together, go I have had a fabulous ride! Lingerie, Something and Sunday’s Snow�lakes here Forty Curves years ago on December 1st,More I began my life in retail with the Fortyatyears agoFarm. on December 1st, I began my life in retail with the for walks or just talk Mattick’s opening of Sunday’s Snowflakes. I was fortunate enough to also open opening of Sunday’s Snow�lakes. I was fortunate enough to also open while petting the dog. Curves Lingerie, Something More and 01, Sunday’s Snowflakes here at WE ARE CLOSING STORE DECEMBER 2021Sunday’s Curves Lingerie, Something More and Snow�lakes here I have made OUR many friends during this time and feel very “I just noticed, Mattick’s Farm. lucky to have spent a big part of my life doing what I love. at Mattick’s Farm. despite the energy www.sund Forty years ago on December I began in retail withopportunity the I am grateful1st, and proudmy tolife have had the required to plan those opening ofI Sunday’s Snow�lakes. Iexperiences was fortunate enough toand alsofeel open havetomade many friends duringwith this time, very share these my staff, I have made many friends during thisamazing time and feel very visits, after those visits, Curves Lingerie, More herewhat lucky Something to have spent aand bigSunday’s part of Snow�lakes my life doing customers, colleagues, suppliers and community lucky to have spent a big part of my life doing what I love. rather than feeling depleted or more at Mattick’s Farm. have supported me over years. I love.who I am grateful and proud to the have had the I am grateful and proud to have had the opportunity tired, I felt more energized and more opportunity to share these experiences with my I have madetomany friends during this time and feelmy veryamazing staff, share these experiences with joyful,” says Hiltner. Saying farewell is the hardest part. amazing customers, colleagues, suppliers THANK luckyYOU to have spent astaff, big part of my life doing what I love. customers, colleagues, and community PATS provides therapy animals to I proud wouldto like tohad take asuppliers moment to For the sweet timesandand I am grateful have the opportunity 5325 Cordova B a y Rd, community who have all supported who have supported megreat over the years. the University of Victoria’s Pet Café, a thank youwith all my for amazing the time. and memories to sharewe these experiences staff, Vi c tori a B C V8Y 2L3 me over the years. WE CLOSING OUR STORE DECEMBER 01, 2021 sharedcustomers, together! colleagues, weekly drop-in for stressed-out students and community I havesuppliers hadARE a fabulous ride! T el: 250- 658- 8499 who have supported me over the Saying farewell is years. the hardest part. to relax with some soothing pet cuddles. THANK YOU sundayssnowflakes@shaw.ca Saying farewell is the hardest part. years ago 1st, I began I would likeon toDecember take a moment to my life in retail with the5325 Co r do va Bay Rd, PATS also has an elementary school For the sweet times Forty THANK YOU Saying farewell is the hardest part. I would like to take a moment of you Sunday’s Snow lakes. fortunate enough to also open THANK thank all for the greatI was time. andYOU memoriesI would we opening program where dogs come into the w w w . s u n d a y s nVi o ct w floar ikae B s .Cc oV8Y m 2L3 like to take a moment to For the sweet times times for the sweet Curves Lingerie, and Sunday’s 5325Snow lakes Co rdo v a Ba y here Rd, toI have thank youaSomething all for theMore shared fabulous ride! classroom for kids who read to them — Te l : 250-658-8499 thank you all for thehad great time. and memories wetogether! V i5325 c to ri a B CCordova V 8Y 2L 3 Bay Road at great Mattick’s Farm. and memories we time. I have had shared together! I have had a fabulous ride! Tel: 250-658-8499 research has shown that kids who are sundayssnowflakes@shaw.ca 250-658-8499 shared WE together! a fabulous ride! ARE CLOSING OUR STORE DECEMBER having challenges with reading are able I have made many friends during this timesundayssnowflakes@shaw.ca and feel very01, 2021 sundayssnowflakes@shaw.ca lucky to have spent a big part of my life doing what I love. to improve their skills faster by reading w w w . s u n d a y s n o w fl a k e s . c o m w w . s u n d a y s n o w fl a k e s . c o m I am grateful and proud to havewhad the opportunity to a calming listener who won’t judge sundayssnowflakes.com to share these experiences with my amazing staff, them.

FAREWELL

“I think animals just make us better, and they make us want to be better.”

FAREWELL

w. ca

Forty years ago on December I began life in retail with the customers,1st, colleagues, suppliersmy and community who have supported me over the years. opening of Sunday’s Snow lakes. I was fortunate enough to also open 76 YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021 SayingMore farewell and is the hardest part. THANK YOU Curves Lingerie, Something Sunday’s Snow lakes here I would like to take a moment to For the sweet times 5 3 2 5 Cor dov a B a y R d, thank you all for the great time. and memories we at Mattick’s Farm.

va B 8Y ay 2L Rd 3 , 99

– Wendy

EC ga EM for n m BE y R t 01 nd una life i ,2 ay te e n r 02 ’s e n 1 t Sn ou ai ow gh l w la to ith ke al th s h so e fee er op lv e en at ery Il ty ove .

FAREWELL

CHRISTINA CRAFT

Hiltner is busy with her day job at the BC Wildfire Service but makes time for PATS because of the good it does for everyone involved. “People light up. They drop any formality and they drop any judgment, and they just can be themselves,” she says. “I think animals just make us better, and they make us want to be better.” She’s also passionate about getting more pet owners involved in pet therapy. “In a city like Victoria with such an aging population, there are so many lonely seniors. Bringing your pet to somebody for an hour a week could just mean everything to them. It could be their whole life,” Hiltner says. “It will surprise you that I think you get as much out of it as that client would get out of it. That’s what’s amazing. It just makes your world a bigger place.”

BECOME YOUR OWN JOY CREATOR There’s beauty in finding ways to inject extraordinary moments into the everyday, in creating connections with others when they least expect it and may need it the most. Many intentional acts of joy don’t cost a cent — just the investment of some thought, time and energy. Best of all, bringing joy to others is a positive practice that fills your own emotional bucket, too. Here are some easy ways to create joy: • Email a friend or family member photos of you together, with a heartfelt note explaining why you chose them.

• Handwrite and mail affectionate cards to friends and family, no special occasion needed.

• Buy used copies of your favourite books to share in little free libraries.

• Compliment strangers; just take care to be selective and authentic.

• Take a moment to text or DM your friends thoughtful memes, GIFs or quotes that remind you of them. • Create a magical fairyland for your neighbours to enjoy by hanging string lights around your home. • If someone you know is struggling, send them a surprise gift card for a favourite local restaurant or store — that way, you can support both the business and your friend.

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

Selling a property or downsizing? Find out how a customized financial plan can help take care of today and your future. Contact me today for a complimentary, no-obligation financial review. Brian Young, PFP Investment Specialist and Financial Planner 250-216-8159 brianjp.young@scotiabank.com

Registered trademark of The Bank of Nova Scotia, used under licence. Scotiabank includes The Bank of Nova Scotia and its subsidiaries and affiliates, including Scotia Securities Inc. As used in this document, “Investment Specialist and Financial Planner”, “Scotiabank Investment Specialist” and “Financial Planner and Investment Specialist” refers to a Scotia Securities Inc. mutual fund representative or, in Quebec, a Group Savings Plan Dealer Representative who is also registered in the category of Financial Planner. Scotia Securities Inc. is a member of the Mutual Fund Dealers Association.

5810-2020-1004 F1

Memories made together last a lifetime.

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Ask us about our Family Travel and Group Travel packages.

FOUNDER, SOOKE TO SIDNEY ROCK HUNT

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YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

risti Nelson started the Sooke to Sidney Rock Hunt after experiencing a similar hunt in Vancouver, Washington. The concept is simple: Paint a rock, inscribe “SS Rock Hunt” on the bottom, use a sealant to cover all the paint and then hide it. When someone finds the rock, they can post a photo of it in the Sooke to Sidney Rock Hunt group on Facebook and then either keep the rock or rehide it. Since starting the hunt in 2016, Nelson and her team of admins have built a community of over 12,500 members. The hunt attracts a broad range of rock artists from professional painters creating intricate works to toddlers experimenting for the first time. The Facebook page is a riot of colour featuring clusters of rocks on the cusp of being hidden and many happy

“I think it’s always fun to know that you might put a smile on somebody’s face with one of your creations.”

PHOTOS: JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

finders proudly holding their discoveries. “People love when their rocks are posted as found, and especially if there’s a story, or if it’s a little kid who just gets so much joy from finding a rock,” says Nelson. “I think it’s always fun to know that you might put a smile on somebody’s face with one of your creations.” In addition to being a fun, low-cost and family-friendly activity, the SS Rock Hunt has also led to work opportunities. “Some of our members have started businesses through this and are providing for their families with things like commissioned rocks and painting classes,” Nelson says. “That is amazing to me.” To prevent tension around the environmental impact of the hunt, the admins provide information to guide members on being respectful hiders and finders. Going off trail, not sealing rocks (without it, the paint can come off and pollute) and hiding them in delicate ecological areas are all discouraged, as is hiding any rocks on private property. Overall, the hunt has been extremely well-received, and Nelson loves hearing stories about its emotional impact. “They’re going through a really bad day, a really hard time in life, and they come across this rock, and it just means so much to them. Maybe it has something on it, an image that really resonates with them. It becomes really personal for them.”

PUZZLES

The Bateman Foundation Online Shop offers Robert Bateman prints, books and activities, as well as a curated collection of nature-inspired artworks by talented local artists. All proceeds support our naturebased public programming. Buy online and select pick up in-store if you live locally!

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YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

Island Escapes Who needs the tropics when you can find beautiful scenery and thrilling activities right here on Vancouver Island? In the following pages, we whisk you away to hike among the coastal giants, savour the best of farm country or snowshoe on a pristine mountainside. Whether you’re planning a day trip or a longer journey, we have everything you need to know for the escape you’re craving right now.

WINTER’S HEIGHTS Warm your soul with a snowshoeing adventure in the Comox Valley.

armth. It embraces me like an old friend the moment I set foot into Locals Restaurant. The rich aromas, the cosy 1930s natural wood architecture, the orange glow from the stone hearths all offer wellearned solace after a winter snowshoeing adventure to Vancouver Island’s snow-clad mountains. I arrived in Courtenay late on a Friday afternoon. It would have been easy to arrive earlier, but unplugging from the hectic pace of life for a weekend away had me yearning to follow the slow and smooth curves of the eastern coastline along the Old Island Highway. I had always been curious about the people and

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

landscapes of Baynes Sound, but this was the first time I stopped to take in a Denman Island moonrise or pick a handful of fresh oysters from the beach at falling tide. The discordant cacophony of barking sea lions seemed to affirm that I had made the right decision. A couple of free charging stations for my electric car in Buckley Bay made the scenic detour easy to manage. Once in Courtenay, I checked into my room at the Old House Hotel & Spa, then decided to go for a walk and find something to eat, to fuel up for the next day’s mountain adventure. This was not as straightforward as I expected. On any given winter’s eve, downtown Courtenay is far more vibrant, artistic and playful than

BY TIM ENNIS

might be expected for such a small city. My quest for sustenance was completely distracted by the astonishing array of independent bookstores, toy shops, clothing retailers, bakeries, delis, homeand-garden stores, galleries and public art. My quick reconnaissance of 5th and 6th streets clearly called for a more detailed and thoughtful return. There was an equally wide array of locavore culinary options, including Pizzeria Guerrilla, Gladstone Brewing Company, Atlas Café and Nikkei Ramen-Ya. I opted for a thin-crust, stone-baked, Italianstyle pie at Pizzeria Guerrilla paired with a pint of IPA from the excellent Cumberland Brewing Company.

JENN DYKSTRA

Snowshoers on Mount Washington

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

BRACEY PHOTOGRAPHY

Next morning, I headed to Mount Washington Alpine Resort, which was familiar to me from my childhood. I’m not sure if my parents brought us up to the Raven Lodge each winter to indulge in hot, sticky cinnamon buns or whether they intended to instill in us a sense of awe for Vancouver Island’s winter alpine landscapes. Either way, the resort’s unpretentious, family-oriented spirit has remained steadfast all these years — although as an adult, I could stop at Wayward Distillery along the way to fill a flask with Krupnik, an herbal, honey-based spirit that is the locals’ secret to keeping fire in the belly while venturing out onto the Island mountains in winter. With a scenic backdrop that includes the Comox Glacier, Mount Albert Edward, Alexandra Peak and other mountain giants, snowshoeing at Mount Washington is about as good as it gets for those curious about how to step into the larger world of snow sports. It has more than 22 kilometres of well-marked snowshoe-only trails, a fullservice rental department and special packages that link experienced professional guides with first-timers. Plus its gentle terrain is suitable for anyone of any age who wants to appreciate the still beauty of Vancouver Island’s old-growth forests and mountains in winter. After a few hours of soaking up world-class mountain views in a pristine winter alpine setting, I was ready to head back to the Old

House Hotel and its Ohspa, which offers a wide range of spa services, including hot stone massage, foot massage and couples’ packages, from its location right in the heart of the K’omoks Estuary. I spent some time enjoying the warmth of the sauna and heated outdoor pool, before venturing to Locals Restaurant, adjacent to the hotel, for dinner in front of its glowing hearth. Locals’ chef Ronald St. Pierre is as award-winning as he is creative in his approach to crafting meals that feature the best agricultural products the Comox Valley has to offer. Among them is the exceptional fresh, local seafood, which is at its bountiful best in the Pacific Rim bouillabaisse. It was heartwarming, too, especially when I learned that Old House and Locals are supporters of restoring the K’omoks Estuary through Project Watershed. But they are not alone. I discovered that local businesses throughout the Comox Valley are giving back to the environment that sustains them, whether it is Wayward Distillery and Cumberland Brewing Company protecting forests in Cumberland or Mount Washington Alpine Resort working for the recovery of the endangered Vancouver Island marmot. A change of scenery was long overdue, but it turns out that spending a snowshoeing weekend amid the relaxed ambience of the Comox Valley was also the perfect way to warm my soul.

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

BEN GIESBRECHT FOR TOURISM VANCOUVER ISLAND

Left: Sustainable seafood bouillabaisse at Locals Restaurant; Right: Warming spirits made from honey at Wayward Distillery.

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Avatar Grove and Canada’s Gnarliest Tree

TOWERING TREES AND COZY CAFÉS Why the trip from Sooke to Port Renfrew might be the getaway you need right now. BY JOANNE SASVARI

ometimes you just need to escape, to clear your head, to leave all your daily concerns behind. But when you live on an island, there are only so many places to go. Luckily, there’s the Sooke to Port Renfrew coastline — close enough for a day trip, but a world away in every other way. From Victoria, the drive to Sooke is less than an hour, but that journey along Highway 14 takes you into another realm. It travels from the urban sprawl around Langford into bucolic farmland — and then things get really wild. To the south, just 20 kilometres across Juan de Fuca Strait, the forests of Washington State’s Olympic Peninsula emerge mistily from the downpours that keep this coast so green. (There’s a reason they call the village at the end of the line “Port Rainfrew.”) On this side of the Salish Sea, horses graze in verdant pastures and handdrawn signs advertise farm-fresh eggs at the end of long driveways. In between, the occasional orca frolics in the strait, while eagles soar overhead. This is British Columbia in all its wild beauty, and it’s right on our doorstep. Sooke itself is a pretty town of gardens, historic homes and cozy little eateries, like the passionately farm-to-table Wild Mountain Food & Drink, pubby Route 14 and retro-diner Mom’s Café, with its irresistible mile-high apple pie. And while the famous Sooke Harbour House inn is closed for now, the newly renovated Prestige

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SHOP LOCAL, SIP LOCAL Wild Mountain Food & Drink

Oceanfront Resort offers comfortable accommodation right on the harbour. Sooke has long been a popular destination for recreational fishing and other outdoor adventures, so bring your rod and reel, if that’s your thing, and your hiking boots no matter what. In nearby Sooke Potholes Provincial Park, hiking trails lead through towering Douglas firs to a series of deep rock pools — the potholes — carved by the Sooke River. It’s also a popular stop on the Galloping Goose Regional Trail, the 55-kilometre walking/ running/biking rail trail that travels from Victoria to Leechtown, a ghost town just north of Sooke. There are several other parks and hiking trails here, culminating in the granddaddy of

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them all, the epic, multi-day, experts-only West Coast Trail that treks from Port Renfrew along the rugged Shipwreck Coast to Bamfield. Somewhat more accessible (and significantly less muddy), French Beach Provincial Park is perfect for a day’s outing, for a picnic with friends and a gentle stroll along the shore. From Sooke, the road continues to the village of Sheringham, known to one and all as Shirley. This is home not just to the exceptional, award-winning Sheringham Distillery, renowned for its local Shirley Delicious café kelp-flavoured gin, but to Shirley Delicious, a quirky café in an A-frame hut where loggers, fishers, hikers and environmentalists alike enjoy freshly baked treats and homemade soups. And then the forest closes in. The trees loom taller, darker and a little spookier as you get close to Port Renfrew and the Island’s storm-tossed west coast. Moss covers them like thick velvet. Mist drifts between their branches. Rain almost certainly will fall, the earthy aroma of petrichor mingling with the salt of the sea and the fresh green fragrance of the forest. About 10 kilometres outside Port Renfrew, in the traditional territory of the Pacheedaht First Nation, you will find Avatar Grove, a stand of some of the world’s very last remaining oldgrowth red cedar and Douglas fir trees, some as old as 1,000 years. Follow the boardwalk through the forest so you can pay homage to “Canada’s Gnarliest Tree.” By now you will likely need to refuel and, perhaps, find a place to stay for the night. In Port Renfrew itself, Wild Renfrew is a resort that offers pretty much whatever you need. The team can connect you with outfitters for whale watching or fishing, help you organize a wedding or direct you to the best hiking trails. They also have a pub, a slightly fancier restaurant, seaside cottages, luxury tents, a lodge, even real estate. You know. Just in case you decide to make your escape a permanent one.

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BOUNTIFUL VALLEY Savouring the season in the Cowichan Valley. BY CARLA SORRELL

fter a couple of nights spent in Cowichan, I’m keen to consider myself a valley girl. The magic of this region is undeniable. The abundance of the land is alluring. The proximity to my home in Victoria makes it incredibly practical for a quick getaway, with or without kids. Despite that, I wanted more and before I left I was scanning realtor.ca and imagining a permanent relocation. A unique micro-climate gives the valley Canada’s highest year-round temperatures, accounting for the richness in agricultural offerings. Translation: a foodie’s paradise.

The Tractor Shed Guest House, Emandare Vineyard

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There are those moments on every trip, no matter the length, when you feel you’re in the right place at the right time. The stars, or more significantly, the weather and the drinks, align to elevate an experience from good to spectacular. The first stop on our way up-Island, a late autumnal lunch at Unsworth Vineyards, found us sitting outside, warmed by a heat lamp, watching the sun-soaked vineyards. We were off to a good start. Unsworth gained attention in the summer of 2020 when the Turyk family sold to Barbara Banke and Julia Jackson of California’s KendallJackson Wines, who are active co-owners and bring with them an incredible wealth of expertise that they have been keen to apply to Cowichan’s terroir. The domain’s Charme de L’Île is a not-to-miss favourite, a sparkly take on Prosecco that is brewed in high-pressure Italian tanks and embodies a signature style of the region. Unearthing the region’s flavours, Unsworth Restaurant’s menu has a lot to offer, but what keeps me coming back for more is their smoky seafood chowder. Later, the highs and lows of the valley reveal themselves. The sound of torrential rain Unsworth’s bellows over the expansive, Charme de L’Île protruding ceiling at Blue Grouse Estate Winery’s LEEDcertified production and tasting rooms, making for a dramatic visit. Stretching across the horizon, the weather rolls through as if on a conveyor belt. With such an extensive range of wines, it was hard to choose a selection for tasting. Blue Grouse boasts some of the oldest pinot gris vines in B.C. and a valuable crop of other estate grapes. The vineyard is undergoing the transition to organic, a process that will take time but, says proprietor Paul Brunner, is the right thing to do. That’s where Brunner sees industry leaders establishing new standards. Despite the abundance of choice, wine isn’t always the right thing to quench your thirst. After hours spent lost in the maze of trails weaving throughout Mount Tzouhalem — including an anxious final descent down a mountain bike

pipeline — the destination was Small Block Brewery. Spoiled for choice, thanks to great work by head brewer and co-owner Cate Scally, a couple of flights seemed like the way to go. The friendly and generous taproom staff added a few extras so we could try everything.

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WHERE TO STAY The Tractor Shed Guest House at Emandare Vineyard is a lovingly created place to spend some time away. The only downside of this spot is, in all its perfection — think watching the light fade over fields below a sliver of ocean, while drinking a glass of the vineyard’s signature natural wine from the hot tub — there is little temptation to explore the sights and sounds of Cowichan. Owners Mike and Robin Nierychlo care profoundly for the land and all that springs from it, guest house included. Robin’s tasteful design and clever layout means the space is as suitable for a family as it is for a couple. “It’s our home first, winery second,” says Mike, who refined his tastes early in his career as a self-made wine reviewer and wine video blogger. “Our goal has always been to produce wine that shares the sense of place.” It’s all about family at Emandare. Popping into the tasting room one afternoon, I encountered Mike skilfully conducting a group tasting while balancing his youngest on his arm — whether it was a genuine glimpse of family life or a clever marketing ploy, it certainly wowed the crowd. The OceanFront Suites at Cowichan Bay are right in the middle of the action, and by action in November, I mean with views out to the hundreds of mostly male sea lions basking (and barking) in the harbour, in town to feast on the annual coho salmon run. It’s an incredible thing to wake up to, but challenging to sleep through. My recommendation: the more local wine, the better.

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What I really love about staying here is the walkability. What Cowichan Bay lacks in parking, it makes up for in delightful shops and restaurants. True Grain bakery is a favourite detour of mine on any up-Island trip, especially when I can wake up to a fresh chocolate swirl is even better. There’s no shortage of things to do in the Bay, from the family-favourite marine museum to the mom’s treat Beachology. I could spend the day poking around the idyllic shop. The suites are equally well-equipped for a family stay and would make for an especially fun overnight when the sea lions are in town.

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YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

SCENE

After four decades, singer Joe Coughlin is still swinging.

Singer Joe Coughlin is set to release a new album this winter. “It’s always a blast,” he says.

By David Lennam

t’s been 40 years since Victoria’s Joe Coughlin recorded his eponymously titled debut album, a collection of 11 jazz standards. He was Windsor’s Joe Coughlin then. Not long retired as lead singer in a Southern Ontario hard rock band, Whiteheet, he was trying to reinvent himself as a jazz vocalist. The cover features a tuxedoed 27-year-old Coughlin looking a lot like a young Elliot Gould. Backed by a killer band — featuring legendary guitarist Ed Bickert and longtime Bill Evans Trio drummer Marty Morell — and loaded with tracks like “ ’Round Midnight,” “What a Difference a Day Makes” and “Dancing on the Ceiling,” the record was an impressive calling card for a young voice cutting his teeth on jazz. But it was a promising debut that quickly soured.

“MY ALBUM DISAPPEARED” Eleanor Sniderman, wife of Sam “The Record Man” Sniderman, caught Coughlin’s act when he auditioned for CBC TV’s Search for the Stars and

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

offered him a recording contract, produced that debut album and lined up gigs for the 27-year-old as his new manager. However, during a messy divorce, Sam Sniderman threw all of the albums Eleanor produced out of his stores, Coughlin’s record among them. In a predigital, pre-streaming era, it was effectively lost. “My album disappeared. It was no longer available.” Coughlin says. Something similar happened with Coughlin’s Toronto debut recording at the Royal York Hotel’s jazz club, Lytes, with Bickert, Phil Nimmons and Don Vickery. It was meant to air on CBC television, but a strike by broadcast technicians not only meant it never played, it was never archived. Four decades later, Victoria jazz trumpeter Patrick Boyle called Coughlin with news that he’d found a copy of that debut album on the Web … for $40.

It sold for $7.99 when it came out, says Coughlin, who mentions he was urged to rerelease it. “There’s some vintage Ed Bickert on there and Ed’s gone now,” percussionist Morell told him. So Coughlin checked around to find someone to digitally lift the songs from the record and clean up the sound. It was the iconic Abbey Road Studios that ended up doing the remastering. And earlier this year it was reissued on all the streaming platforms. Coughlin sent digital copies to all the musicians on that record. Each called him back with comments like “Joe, man, is it really 40 years ago we did this?” “I listened to that and started to cry,” keyboardist Bernie Senensky told him, to which Coughlin replied, “Well, that’s what music is supposed to do. It’s supposed to touch you somehow, Bernie,” adding, “After doing it for 52 years I hope that’s still the case.”

JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

All That Jazz

A MUSICIAN’S SINGER His ride to the top of Canadian jazz wasn’t as effortless as Coltrane on “My Favourite Things.” Coughlin had a very visible disability. A forceps accident at birth left him with a spinal cord injury that forced him to use crutches and, for the past 17 years, a motorized wheelchair. He was told, more than once, that he wasn’t going to be a star. But he did become one, as reporter, as host of a CBC TV talk show, as a consultant, a fundraiser and a celebrated singer (nine albums, one Jazz Report Award, two National Jazz Awards for Male Vocalist of the Year). When Dizzy Gillespie takes you aside and tells you, “Joe, I know people are going to try and discourage you from continuing on, but don’t let them do that, because you have a gift,” that’s motivation to keep on plugging. Boyle calls Coughlin a musicians’ singer who really listens to what the band is doing. “I love Joe on ballads. Joe’s tone is warm and true. It’s like he’s singing just to you. I also really respect Joe as a music professional,” Boyle says. “He’s seen it all and is always a joy to work with. When you’re working with Joe, the gig is always great. There’s always the vibe that what we are doing is important.” Coughlin’s parents were aware of their son’s talent, but thought his “soulful, hornlike phrasing,” as jazz critic Joe Blake calls it, was being wasted on Led Zep, Aerosmith and Queen (and Whiteheet’s minor hits “Deceiver” and “Devil’s Knight”). “My parents were always saying to me, ‘You know what, you’ve got a really nice voice, but you can’t hear it with all those guitars playing so loud, so why don’t you try this stuff?’ ” “This stuff ” being show tunes and chapters of the Great American Songbook.

BACK IN THE STUDIO Of all the artists he’s interpreted, it’s Sinatra that Coughlin really gets jazzed about. “It’s his phrasing. And he’s able to tell a story in three-and-a-half minutes.” Sinatra was a late arrival as a Coughlin influence. He recalls an after-party following a gig fronting a show band. “They were playing Zeppelin, and then someone put on this Sinatra at the Sands record with Count Basie and the whole place went silent. Really. The whole party just shut up and listened to the record. I kind of got into him after that.” Like Sinatra, who was still recording in his 60s, Coughlin, now 67, is still swinging. He spent two days in August at Bryan Adams’s The Warehouse Studio in Vancouver laying down tracks for a new album due out this winter. It’s a live-off-the-floor tribute to his earliest jazz influence, the balladeer Johnny Hartman. And Coughlin admits he still gets goosebumps going into the studio. “It’s always a blast, especially when you go back into the control room and listen to the stuff you’ve just recorded on a $5-million stereo. Wow, is that us? It’s still a thrill.”

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DO TELL

More Than Gold

JAY WALLACE

For Paralympian Nate Riech, running isn’t just about the medals. He’s chasing freedom, too. By Aldyn Chwelos

hen Paralympian Nate Riech crossed the finish line at the Tokyo Games to win gold and set a new world record in the men’s 1,500-metre run, he couldn’t stop screaming. “It was a very out-of-body experience,” says Riech, who trains out of the Canadian Sport Institute Pacific in Victoria. “I’ve dreamed of this since I was four.” Riech began running when he was 10 as part of rehabilitation after sustaining a brain injury that affects the right side of his body. Shortly after that, he began racing competitively. Through university, he competed against able-bodied competitors, then entered the para sport arena in 2018 and was named Athletics Canada’s Ambulatory Athlete of the Year for 2018 and 2019. Riech comes from a long line of decorated athletes and always knew he’d chase similar goals. “My dad was an Olympian in ’96 [in javelin] and my mom was a Canadian national champion [pole vaulter] in 2000, so I’m a very competitive, fiery individual,” he says. In Tokyo, Riech tried to balance this competitive drive with enjoying the experience of the Games, made easier by having both his best friend and his roommate also competing for Team Canada.

YAM MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2021

“Our para athletics team was by far the most together team I’ve ever been a part of,” he says. “I’ve never been a part of a team where we cheer so much for each other’s success.” While Riech does have his eyes set on Paris for the 2024 Games, running is about more than medals for him. It’s a form of meditation. “The most important conversation you’re going to have is with yourself because you can never get out of your mind,” says Riech. “After I run fast, I get this freeing moment.” What is your idea of perfect happiness? My idea of perfect happiness is when my family and friends are healthy. I can feel the sense of freedom when I run, and I know that I’m making an impact on someone in the world. It doesn’t have to be big; it could only be an impact on one person.

Which living person do you most admire? Why? My [step]dad, Ben Tucker. I don’t remember a time when he wasn’t in my life. Ben has been a father to me; he’s made so many sacrifices to ensure I had everything I needed. I have always felt my parents were perfect parents for me — they’re tough, fair, funny, considerate and inspiring. Ben, alongside my mother, helped set an unshakable foundation for my life, which I continue to benefit from today. There’s no way I could ever repay him, but I love that man with all my heart. He’s taught me to pay it forward, as well as fight for things you love. I hope I can be half the man he is. What is your current state of mind? Flow.

What is your greatest fear? Not chasing after my goals and dreams.

On what occasion do you lie? I sometimes lie about what I do for a living if I don’t have the time to have a long conversation.

What is the trait you most deplore in yourself? I have a love-hate relationship with my intensity — this can help push me forward but can sometimes mean I’m too hard on myself.

What or who is the greatest love of your life? Running. It’s been something I’ve loved since I was 10. It has been my refuge whenever I needed it.

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