YAM magazine May/June 2016 by Page One Publishing

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Saveur’s gnocchi with smoked beet purée, housemade ricotta, pickled fennel, walnuts, watercress and green apple foam

25 Best Eats in Victoria YAM presents our picks for Victoria’s tastiest eats and most delicious dishes, noshes and treats for 2016. BY CINDA CHAVICH

CONTENTS 46

Small Space, Amplified Style Jody and David Adelman are design experts in small-space living. Now, it’s their turn, with inspiring results.

BY ATHENA McKENZIE

What Moms Know With Mother’s Day approaching, we asked four inspiring moms about their lessons of life and love. BY KAREN ELGERSMA

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

Port Renfrew: Outpost of Cool Wild and wondrous Port Renfrew surrounds you with forest, sea and as much serenity as you can handle. BY KERRY SLAVENS

The new 911 Carrera. Yet again, everything comes back into play. It’s about a new benchmark. A sports car that has only ever existed once in this form. That has been a source of fascination for generations. And is firmly anchored in our heart and soul. It’s about the future of the 911. We are always looking forward. Not sideways, never back. We don’t want to rest on the laurels of our past, no matter how illustrious it may be. All the racing victories. The dreams. Our fans. Thousands of ideas. We hold them in our hearts. Are you ready? Purchase with confidence at Porsche Centre Victoria and be a part of our events at the new Vancouver Island Motorsport Circuit.

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IN EVERY ISSUE

SHOP YOUR WAY. HERE. #LoveLifeBayCentre thebaycentre.ca

18 FOOD + DRINK

8 EDITOR’S NOTE

18 GOOD EATS

11 YAM LOVE Win a scrumptious cheesecake for your spring feast and go behind the scenes at YAM with a stylish photobomb and some creative “chalkboarding”

13 TOP OF MIND West Coast blues for serene home décor, bohemian fashion and fresh beauty finds

All hail the Humboldt squid By Cinda Chavich

YA loves

20 DIVINE DRINKS Introducing savoury cocktails

By Adem Tepedelen

24 IN PERSON Chef Bill Jones of Deerholme Farm in the Cowichan Valley By Gillie Easdon

72 BOOKMARKS The best culinary, travel and hammock reads for the season By Carolyn Camilleri

HOME + GARDEN 22 LIVING SMART Let’s do brunch! By Athena McKenzie

74 LAST PAGE The father-son creativity behind Ampersand Distilling

28 OUTSTANDING HOMES Natural luxury on Denman Island

By Anneke Feuermann

By Carolyn Heiman

FASHION 65 STYLE WATCH Escape into spring with its most wearable trends By Janine Metcalfe

70 JOE DANDY Top seven warm-weather essentials

BCBGMAXAZRIA • CLUB MONACO L’OCCITANE • MELANIE LYNE MIGRATION • LE CHATEAU

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

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hat first Mother’s Day after I became a mom, I carried my newborn daughter into The Empress tearoom on a windy spring day with the last of the pink cherry blossoms clinging to the trees. I remember everything appeared Technicolor — the brights brighter, the shadows darker. I’d never felt so utterly vulnerable yet completely powerful. My diary entry from that day says, “I had no idea how strong I could be. I had no idea how gentle I could be. I did not know how much my heart could hold.” Now, as Mother’s Day approaches again, and my daughter gets ready to graduate from university, I still haven’t reached the limits of how much the heart can hold — and my relationship with my daughter deepens as we come to know each other in new ways. I thought of this as I read The Rainbow Comes and Goes, a memoir I found there was co-written by journalist Anderson Cooper and his mother Gloria Vanderbilt, artist and fashion designer, still much I didn’t once dubbed “poor little rich girl” for the poisonous know about her ... custody/trust fund dispute between her mother and the ultra-rich Vanderbilts. Cooper says that after his mother became ill at age 91, at his urging, he and his mom embarked on a year-long conversation, mostly through email, to learn more about each other, before time ran out. “Even as an adult,” Cooper writes in the book, which draws its title from a line in Wordsworth’s poem Intimations of Immortality, “I found there was still much I didn’t know about her ... There was also much she didn’t know about me. When we’re young we all waste so much time being reserved or embarrassed with our parents, resenting them or wishing they and we were entirely different people.” The conversation between Cooper and Vanderbilt is built on the kind of deep communication I think many parents and children wish — or wished — to have. I was both fortunate and unfortunate to know my own mom had limited time left after her lung cancer diagnosis, so in her final year and a half, we were able to have those deep conversations. Should all parents and children have those conversations? It’s not for me to say, but I’m glad I did. In sharing her story with me, my mom showed me many more dimensions to her life. I began to really understand her as a woman, not just as mom, and my memories of her are so much richer for it.

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Volkswagen

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

Highland model shown for illustration purposes only. Vehicles may not be exactly as shown. *Starting from price of $22,500 is based on the 2016 Golf 5-Door Trendline 1.8 TSI 170 HP 5-speed manual transmission with a MSRP ($20,895) and freight/PDI ($1605). DOC ($395), environmental levies ($100), tire levy ($25), license, insurance PPSA fee (up to $45.48, if applicable), registration ($495), options, any dealer or other charges, and applicable taxes are extra. Visit Volkswagen Victoria to view current offers. “Volkswagen”, the Volkswagen logo, “Trendline” and “Golf”, are registered trademarks of Volkswagen AG. ©2016 Volkswagen Canada. DL 49914428 #31186

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Do indulge in a brunch for a good cause at the upcoming Greater Victoria Housing Society’s Brunch for the Housing Crunch on June 25 and 26 at the Crooked Goose Bistro! You can make reservations at 250-590-4556. For more info, please visit greatervichousing.org. — Kerry

Email me at kslavens@pageonepublishing.ca

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yam LIVING SMART

LIVING WELL

PUBLISHERS Lise Gyorkos, Georgina Camilleri EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Kerry Slavens

CREATIVE AND TECHNICAL MANAGER Jeffrey Bosdet

PRODUCTION MANAGER Jennifer Kühtz

EDITORIAL DESIGNER Janice Hildybrant

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Athena McKenzie

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Anneke Feuermann

PROOFREADER Vivian Sinclair CONTRIBUTING DESIGNER Jo-Ann Loro CONTRIBUTING WRITERS David Alexander, Carolyn Camilleri, Cinda Chavich, Gillie Easdon, Karen Elgersma, Carolyn Heiman, David Lennam, Adem Tepedelen CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITOR Janine Metcalfe

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Jeffrey Bosdet, Simon DesRochers, Joshua Lawrence

CONTRIBUTING AGENCIES Stocksy p.22; ThinkStock pp.16, 19, 25, 72 ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES Vicki Clark, Lory Couroux, Cynthia Hanischuk, Michelle Okawara GENERAL INQUIRIES info@yammagazine.com LETTERS TO THE EDITOR letters@yammagazine.com TO SUBSCRIBE TO YAM subscriptions@yammagazine.com ADVERTISING INQUIRIES sales@yammagazine.com ONLINE yammagazine.com FACEBOOK YAM magazine – Victoria TWITTER twitter.com/YAMmagazine INSTAGRAM @yam_magazine COVER The always-popular fried chicken and waffles from North 48 Restaurant.

Photo by Jeffrey Bosdet/YAM magazine and chalk lettering by YAM designer Janice Hildybrant Published by PAGE ONE PUBLISHING 580 Ardersier Road, Victoria, BC V8Z 1C7 T 250-595-7243 info@pageonepublishing.ca pageonepublishing.ca

Printed in Canada by Transcontinental Printing. Ideas and opinions expressed in this publication do not necessarily reflect the views of Page One Publishing Inc. or its affiliates; no official endorsement should be inferred. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not the publisher. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in all or part, in any form — printed or electronic — without the express permission of the publisher. The publisher cannot be held responsible for unsolicited manuscripts and photographs. Canadian Publications Mail Product Sales Agreement #41295544 ADVERTISE IN YAM MAGAZINE YAM magazine is Victoria’s leading home and lifestyle magazine. Established in 2009, YAM was created for people who want to live well, live smart and make the most of their lifestyle. For advertising info, please call us at 250-595-7243 or email sales@yammagazine.com.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

YAM LOVE ENTER THE

#yamlovesdessert GIVEAWAY!

Win a decadent cheesecake from The Hearth Bakery at Thrifty Foods!

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It’s true — YAM loves dessert! And what’s better than an oh-so-creamy, melt-in-yourmouth cheesecake? Enter to win one of six handmade delights from The Hearth, Thrifty Foods’ artisan stone-oven bakery experience at their Admirals Walk, Sidney and Duncan locations.

JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

For contest details, visit yammagazine.com. Entry deadline is June 10, 2016.

ON THE COVER

To give YAM’s cover an authentic menu-board feel, YAM designer Janice Hildybrant hand-lettered the cover captions on a chalkboard. The captions were then shot by photographer Jeffrey Bosdet for a cover that has that foodie signboard style.

Celebrate the skin you’re in.

MOM’S THE WORD

CUTEST PHOTOBOMB Can a photobomb be endearing? When it’s a dog — or two — popping into the frame, it sure is. Lincoln and Bentley, the shop dogs of Parc Modern and canine companions to Jody and David Adelman, added some fun to our photo shoot for Small Space, Amplified Style (page 46).

Love all things local? Like us at facebook.com /YAMmagazine

We loved working with Victoria media maven Karen Elgersma (pictured here with daughter Charlotte), who wrote What Moms Know (page 54), an intimate and inspiring story that explores the lessons of motherhood.

Join the conversation at twitter.com /YAMmagazine

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TO P O F M I N D

ON OUR RADAR

CITY CULTURE

GOOD EATS

DIVINE DRINKS

This salad of lush greens and blossoms foraged from the “urban wild” by Jennifer Aikman and Danielle Prohom Olson of Gather features many delights that grow in Victoria’s neighbourhoods. Think young dandelion leaves and petals, sweet cicely, lemon balm, calendula blossoms, English daisies, tulip petals, forget-me-nots and violets. Through wild-food forays and seasonal celebrations, Gather hopes to revive the wild-food culinary traditions of previous generations and explore our local terroir, season by season. | gathervictoria.com

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

TASTE OF SPRING

T OP O F M I ND

ON OUR RADAR

A collection of our favourite things

WEST COAST BLUES From ultramarine to cerulean, bring aqua hues of happiness and sea-inspired serenity into your springtime home décor.

2 1 Made from yarn-dyed linen weave, the Billie sofa pulls colours from the West Coast landscape (westelm.com, $999) 2 Add a splash of the ocean to your living room with a textured linen pillow (Insideout Home Store, $180) 3 This lightweight and fast-drying towel, hand-loomed and made of 100% Turkish cotton, brings a lush pop of blue to your bathroom (Picot Collective, $68) 4 The Vitra Panton chair is made of durable, dyed-through plastic with a lustrous matte finish (Gabriel Ross, $409) 5 Labyrinth (12" x 12", pigment ink digital print on 100% cotton cold-press paper) from Victoria photographer Lis Bailly’s Beyond Appearances collection (artstrata.com, $200) 6 Crafted in collaboration with skilled local artisans using traditional techniques, the Costeña Rocker is perfect for indoor or outdoor use (Zientte, $1,754).

6 5 SIMPLE BEAUTY SOAK IN SIMPLICITY WITH THESE NATURAL AND ORGANIC LOCAL PRODUCTS. The “Make Love, Not War” candle is made of soy wax and created in small batches in Vancouver (humankindcandles.com, $24); Wild Hill Coconut Bath Milk, with vanilla essential oil, softens the skin as it de-stresses the body (Frances Grey, $36); Woodlot soaps are made with charcoal to detoxify pores, and scents of cedarwood, fir and patchouli to take you back to the forest (Bernstein & Gold, $10).

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

3 2

BOHEMIAN STYLE Hippie fashion makes a comeback this summer with bright beads, airy fabrics and influences of L.A.’s Canyon vibe. 1 Look effortlessly stylish in the Lianna Deco squareprint maxi dress, elevated with a mix of gold medallion prints (BCBGMaxazria, The Bay Centre, $335) 2 Take linen to the next level with these cast and hand-forged bronze Tiro Tiro earrings with woven Irish linen (Violette Boutique, $115) 3 This wide-brimmed sun hat offers portable shade and timeless style (Roberta’s Hats, $45) 4 Drawing inspiration from the tiered rooflines of Asia, this colourful, water-repellent umbrella comes with a drawstring storage tote. Serenity in a bag. (Pier 1 Imports, $240) 5 The Prana Bhakti yoga tote mixes prints for you (Rainbird Boutique, $60) 6 Step up your shoe game with sandals hand-stitched by the Maasai women of the 6 African Savannah (Head Over Heels, $269).

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YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

CITY CULTURE

By David Lennam

DIALING for DIVAS A TELEPHONIC MODERN OPERA

A Symphony of

Blouses

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YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

pronounced myself not-ready-formodern-opera back in 1995 after barely surviving Pacific Opera Victoria’s edgy Con’temp’aria, the first festival of new opera ever held in Canada. It was the “new” that made me believe I was some sort of philistine needing a restraining order that forbade me from being within two blocks of an opera hall. My Con’temp’aria experience involved a show at the Belfry, a very empty Belfry, on a very sunny afternoon. The show was called Ne blâmez jamais les bédouins. One woman sang 22 characters with no musical accompaniment — and she sang in French with no subtitles. For two hours! My French is only as good as the Alberta high school system allowed. “Monsieur Thibaut habit dix Place d’Italie” good. This information was not in the opera. I was complaining about it to a friend who just shook his head and sighed, “At least you didn’t have to listen to someone singing in German for two hours.” More than 10 years after that experience,

I will return to modern opera in May, when the UNO Fest presents La Voix humaine, another one-woman opera … in French! “Just bring your open ears and mind,” assures director Diana Leblanc. Sought after at Stratford and by the big opera companies, a multiple-award-winnng actor and recipient of a Governor General’s lifetime achievement award, Leblanc must know something I don’t. La Voix humaine (The Human Voice) has been called telephonic opera. The audience eavesdrops on a young Parisian woman on the phone with her lover following their breakup and her attempted suicide. Technically, it’s modern, but it bears the credential of being based on a Jean Cocteau monologue from 1930. There was also a film version in 1948, a TV version in the ’60s starring Ingrid Bergman, a record album and a radio production. French composer Francis Poulenc turned Cocteau into a one-act opera in 1958, mining tragedy from the ordinary and striving for the sort of dramatic realism

grand opera tends to sidestep. The vocal lines, though sung, are patterned on regular speech and punctuated by a score that rises when the drama dials up the temperature of the dialogue. Poulenc, Leblanc admits, is a tough slog, but a modern classic. Atonal and not melodic in the way Puccini or Verdi is, but intensely dramatic. Irrational and exotic as opera is meant to be, but on a small scale, with a claustrophobic intimacy. This UNO production isn’t staged in the cavernous Royal, but in the Baumann Centre, Pacific Opera Victoria’s new acoustically engineered home on Balmoral Road. “I can’t imagine anyone interested in opera not being at least curious about seeing an intimate opera in an intimate space,” says Leblanc. “That alone is incredibly exciting. And it’s 40 minutes long,” she adds. “Let’s not forget the advantages there.” Leblanc is famously familiar with the piece, having directed the opera in 2004 as well as acting in Cocteau’s play version in 1996. “It’s nice to return to something you know and love,” she says. “You’ve already

done so much of the work music tells us more about “I CAN’T IMAGINE … so that always feels that unheard half of the ANYONE INTERESTED conversation. reassuring, and you have a point of departure for Leblanc isn’t worried IN OPERA NOT BEING what you can explore from that one piano taking AT LEAST CURIOUS there.” the place of an entire ABOUT SEEING AN Part of the exploration orchestra won’t do the INTIMATE OPERA IN piece justice. is getting the heartbreak right. “If they’d said to AN INTIMATE SPACE,” La Voix humaine has me, ‘You can have an SAYS LEBLANC. been called a neurotic orchestra or a single telephone monologue, piano,’ I’d choose single but Leblanc doesn’t totally agree with that piano. There’s a better balance between the phrasing. single voice and the single instrument and “I think it’s the woman in extremis. She it becomes almost another character. And if is pushed to the end. She’s not neurotic, one instrument can be an orchestra, it is the she is being pulled to the end of what she’s piano.” capable of and she’s being hurt beyond La Voix humaine stars homegrown belief, so much so it eventually breaks her. If soprano Kathleen Brett as Elle, the nameless that’s neurotic, then heartbreak is neurotic.” woman on the telephone. Robert Holliston is Typically, the POV presents the big on piano. operas with a full orchestra. This La Voix humaine is arranged for single piano. It’s an A collaboration between POV and Intrepid edgy score where the music takes on the Theatre, producers of UNO Fest, La Voix role of the woman’s lover on the other end humaine runs May 12-22 at the Baumann of the line — someone we never see. The Centre. ::

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YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

GOOD EATS

By Cinda Chavich

All Hail Humboldt DELICIOUS MONSTER OF THE DEEP

Charred Humboldt squid with Vietnamese slaw by Chef Nick Nutting of Wolf in the Fog, located in Tofino.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

ecently I made a trip to the wild western edge of Vancouver Island, ostensibly for a holiday, but mostly to taste the Humboldt squid at Wolf in the Fog yet again. Charred on a hot grill, sliced thin and so surprisingly tender, it’s a simple dish, but one that embodies chef Nick Nutting’s love of Tofino’s remote coastal terroir. And, like the crunchy seaweed salad of local bull kelp or the rare gooseneck barnacles he serves, this unusual squid tastes fresh and clean, the essence of the ocean. The Humboldt squid is a relative newcomer to B.C. waters, first pushed north from California and points south on warm El Niño currents. Unlike the ubiquitous baby squid imported from Asia, the Pacific Humboldt squid fishery is eco-friendly and “greenlighted” by Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise program. This darling of sustainabilityminded chefs is popping up on menus across the country. I’ve tasted Humboldt squid at Bishop’s in Vancouver alongside Quadra Island scallops, leek hearts and octopus. At Calgary’s Model Milk, it’s cut into fingers, like chunky pasta, and tossed with oven-roasted tomatoes, electric-green soy beans and guanciale. And I’ve been hunting this monster of the deep on Victoria tables, too. At Fish Hook, chef Kunal Ghose is so enamoured of this massive mollusk, he’s using it in many creative ways, from his Humboldt squid pakoras, fried in a crispy chickpea-and-cornflour batter, to the flash roasted Tandoori Humboldt squid, tender ribbons glazed in a spicy sauce. There’s even a squid option when you order his coconut curried seafood biryani. “Finally, I can serve squid again,” says Ghose who serves only Ocean Wise certified seafood. “I haven’t been able to serve regular calamari because it’s not considered sustainable, but Humboldt Squid is fished along the west coast from Mexico to Alaska, and there’s no worry about overfishing.” Jeff Keenliside, executive chef for the Oak Bay Marine Group, serves this sustainable squid on his Ocean Wise menus, too. From the chunky buttermilk-fried calamari and the shawarma-spiced grilled Humboldt squid with kale, crispy Moroccan chickpeas and hummus on the menu at the Marina Restaurant, to the salt-and-pepper squid served on the Canadian Princess in Ucluelet, it takes to both simple and exotic preparations.

With reports that these lot of different species ...,” “My first experience with Humboldt squid was aggressive carnivores she adds. “For Humboldt at a pub in Cowichan Bay a squid it’s a different hunt in packs, capsize couple of years back,” says scenario. The typical fishing boats and kill Keenliside. “Now we use it a range is from Peru to the divers, it’s no wonder lot — it’s so much easier to California coastline, and it’s they have also earned use than baby squid, there’s jig-caught, with a lure on a the name Diablo Rojo such a high percentage yield line, so there’s virtually no (Red Devil) and “manand no waste.” bycatch.” eating super squid.” And it’s delicious. That’s There’s no commercial why you’ll see it served in a fishery in B.C. targeting crispy squid and bacon clubhouse wrap or a this squid, though local tuna boats, fishing in smoky grilled-squid entree at Vista 18; flashdeep water, land enough for a small supply. fried with shaved fennel and roasted shishito In Tofino, Chef Nutting says it comes to peppers at Canoe; or offered up as Ocean him through West Pacific Seafoods, “caught Wise calamari strips with roasted tomatooffshore and frozen at sea by local fishermen.” caper aioli at the Six Mile Pub. Victoria’s Finest At Sea sells locally caught Humboldt squid when available, but it’s rare. DINING WITH THE DEVIL The Humboldt squid or jumbo flying COOKING JUMBO SQUID squid (Dosidicus gigas) first appeared on Baby squid rings are notorious for our culinary radar in 2009, an El Niño year becoming chewy like rubber bands that saw large numbers of the big squid when overcooked, so I imagined that the in the waters off the Island, even a bizarre Humboldt squid would be India rubber ball “beaching” of dozens of them on Long Beach tough. But that’s not the case at all. in Tofino. Locals described it as an “alien Unlike octopus, there’s no mechanical invasion,” which is not surprising. tenderizing or marinating necessary for A Humboldt squid is just one of more than tender results. There are some membranes 200 species of this cephalopod, and though it to peel away — akin to removing the looks just like the whole baby squid you buy fell from a rack of ribs — but then quick from the supermarket, it’s a real giant of its cooking or slow braising is simple. Most kind — the mantle (body) alone can be more chefs say the big Humboldt may be more than five feet long, and the largest specimens forgiving as a result of its size. can weigh 100 pounds. “For our calamari, we just cut it into thin University of Victoria Environmental strips, dip it in buttermilk and fry it,” says Studies professor John Volpe says it can be Keenliside. a “dangerous exercise” to try to land one Most chefs score or cross-hatch the tubes of these squid, and though they have been the squid comes in before cooking the squid. encountered by fishers trolling for salmon “We take the tubes, remove the skin and or tuna over the last decade, it’s unlikely membrane, score it one way, then score in you’ll see one. They live in deep water and the opposite direction, slicing through into scientists agree these “seasonal migrants” strips,” says Ghose. “Then it’s pan seared only rarely travel from the tropics to our and flash roasted, three and a half minutes. Pacific coast. Some suggest the species is I’m all about quick service.” moving north as a result of global warming, So take a chance if you see this super but Volpe says there’s no real evidence. squid for sale at your fishmonger’s, or Like all squid, they are short lived and fast simply try it at a local restaurant. growing, but squid are not well understood, “It took me a while to figure it out, but now says Teddie Geach, seafood specialist for when I’m asked what I recommend, it’s the Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise program. squid,” says Ghose. “I haven’t had an ingredient “There are large booms in the population, excite me as much in a long time!” :: followed by declines, and it’s not clear if that’s a typical trend or due to overfishing. For an easy-to-prepare Humboldt squid “Most common calamari is coming from recipe and a chance to win a copy of China and India, where typically a bottom the The Ocean Wise Cookbook 2, visit yammagazine.com. trawler drags the ocean floor, hauling up a YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

DIVINE DRINKS

By Adem Tepedelen

For a luxurious vintage look in your home bar, consider Timothy Oulton’s Aviator Blackhawk dressing table ($4,310) and American Lockers’ 15 Door ($2,320), both at Luxe Home Interiors. Samba dessert nappy ($40, set of 4) and Cuisivin copper cocktail shaker ($25) both at Penna & Co.

SAVOURY SEASON O

ne needs look no further than the quintessential Canadian cocktail, the Caesar, for the perfect example of a savoury cocktail. This is a cocktail category that until fairly recently didn’t go much beyond that Canadian classic, or the Bloody Mary. The typical formula for most cocktails follows the sweet-bittertart triumvirate, which largely precludes anything that could be considered savoury. Ah, but that has changed of late, with bartenders now taking cues from the finedining world and introducing more and more, well, food flavours to their creations. In a previous column I told you about local mixologist Shawn Soole’s Cold Night In, a grilled-cheese-and-tomato-soup cocktail, which is on the extreme end of the savoury-drink spectrum, but nonetheless offers an example of the creativity that typifies this category. A savoury cocktail can be smoky, vegetal, herbal, spicy, salty — or combinations of the above.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

KITCHEN TO THE BAR At Victoria’s Veneto Tapa Lounge, adventurous imbibers are encouraged to “spin the wheel,” which entails choosing a type of spirit (gin, vodka, brandy, etc.) and then picking one or two attributes for the cocktail from this list: sweet, bitter, tart or savoury. The bartender then improvises a drink on the spot. It’s all about what you’re in the mood for. However, the vagueness of the “savoury” category sometimes stumps people. “Savoury is a funny one,” says Veneto food and beverage manager and head bartender Simon Ogden. “It’s the one we find ourselves explaining more than any other. Sweet, tart and bitter everyone kind of gets. I think savoury as a category is relatively kind of new.” Yes, you can use the ubiquitous Caesar as a reference point — and it’s a classic

JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

From smoky to herbal to vegetal, foodie flavours are entering the bartender lexicon.

for a reason — but Ogden offers an explanation that more accurately describes the category. “It’s kitchen-y flavours in a cocktail, if you will,” he explains. “We use a lot of herbs in the savoury cocktails. We always have basil and cilantro and things like that on hand to give us an option. “Probably our most popular savoury cocktail that we put together at Veneto is one that Josh [Boudreau] came up with called Hell’s Bells. It’s a pristine example of this category. We muddle a quarter of a red bell pepper, which gives it a lot of [pepper] juice for the cocktail and add tequila. Then we use honey, a sweetener more on the kitchen-origin flavour profile, and lime juice for tartness. There’s also a little bit of habanero shrub — a habaneroflavoured vinegar — in there.”

LIQUID APPETIZER When you’re in the mood for a drink, savoury cocktails • 1/4 red bell scratch an itch that pepper, diced others don’t. There’s and aggressively muddled in the a certain “heartiness” bottom of a to them — though shaker tin they aren’t by default • 1 1/2 oz blanco heavy or rich. tequila “Savoury cocktails • 1/2 oz honey syrup tend to work really (equal parts honey well as appetite and water, heated stimulators,” Ogden to combine and says. Consider a cooled) savory cocktail for • 1 oz freshly a pre-appetizer squeezed lime sip or in lieu of an juice appetizer. These • A whisper of drinks hit the same Habanero Shrub notes with their Combine all foodie ingredients ingredients in your and flavours. shaker tin, add ice “We’re lucky and shake together. enough at Veneto Strain into a chilled cocktail coupe. to be attached to a kitchen,” says Ogden. “So we can raid that fridge for herbs and tomatoes to mash up and there are all sorts of things we can appropriate from the kitchen — peppers and the like. Cucumber, fresh ginger — all this stuff is routinely brought up and kept in the bar’s mise en place.” Spirits themselves are being imbued with all kinds of savoury flavours, too. You can get bacon or black pepper or celery bitters that can be dashed in for a bit of seasoning, or chili vodka that adds a spicy kick to a Caesar. For Ogden, though, there are a couple of options that any home bar should have on hand. “Gin and tequila are your savoury go-to’s for sure,” he notes. “Tequila falls brilliantly into that maxim of ‘what grows together goes together.’ The flavour profile of tequila goes with everything delicious that you can get from Mexico. Gin also goes well with savoury. Muddle up cucumber with some gin and that’s it, you’ve already got a savoury cocktail. You can go on from there.” Adding an element of smoke is another way to bring savoury notes to a cocktail. Mescal, tequila’s rustic cousin, offers a hint of roasty smoke. Peaty single malt scotches can also be used in modest proportions to provide a campfire note. Ambitious bartenders even “wash” (i.e. soak) bacon to infuse a unique smoked meat note into dark spirits, such as bourbon. For Canadians, the Caesar remains the touchstone savoury cocktail, a drink you can both nosh on and sip, but a new generation of bartenders is broadening the range of foodie flavours in their savoury arsenal. :: HELL’S BELLS

By Josh Boudreau, Veneto Tapa Lounge

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

L I V ING SM A RT By Athena McKenzie

LET’S DO BRUNCH! Use the amazingly colourful — and always on trend — Eggs Benny as a “foodspiration” launching point for your kitchen décor. Think citrusy-bright tableware, textured linens and accents, and a fresh green sideboard to store your dishes. Short of dining chairs? A bench is a stylish way to add extra seating when entertaining. Of course, as the brunch capital of the country, Victoria is spoiled for dining-out options, but there’s also something special about hosting a gathering of family and friends at home over Bennies and mimosas. ::

JILL CHEN/STOCKSY

1 Distinctly Home 16-piece Orla dinnerware set (Hudson’s Bay, $100) 2 Torre & Tagus Kiri bowl (Paboom, $14) 3 Danica citrus juicer (Penna & Co., $16) 4 EQ3 Reverie bench (Studio Y Designs, starting at $699) 5 Le Creuset egg cups (Penna & Co., $90 set of six) 6 Breville the Oracle espresso machine (Capital Iron, $2,500) 7 Play! 24-piece flatware (villeroyboch.ca, $170) 8 Now Designs dipped cutting board (well.ca, $20) 9 Saleen placemats (Bungalow, $15) 10 Dualit two-slot NewGen toaster (Muffet & Louisa, $420) 11 Coastal Living Resort Esplanade buffet (Luxe Home Interiors, starting at $3,652) 12 EQ3 Lyla armchair (EQ3.com, $199)

For fabulous brunch recipes, including the best Eggs Benny ever, visit yammagazine.com.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

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YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

I N P ER SO N By Gillie Easdon Photos by Jeffrey Bosdet

TO TASTE THE WILD Chef Bill Jones of Deerholme Farm left behind hectic urban kitchens for backroad culinary pursuits in the Cowichan Valley. And heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more popular than ever for his flavourful explorations of farm, forest and sea.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

“

ould you like some eggs?” And with the hand-off of a dozen fresh eggs from Deerholme Farm’s brood of 35 unnamed chickens, my first meeting with Bill Jones, over coffee at Discovery Coffee, is complete. The next time I see Jones will be at his small farm, hidden along a Cowichan Valley backroad but famous with in-the-know food lovers who flock to Deerholme Farm’s long table dinners. The food and the setting reflect the down-to-earth nature of this Frenchtrained chef, award-winning food writer, consultant, master taster, cooking instructor, husband, “the mushroom guy” and selfproclaimed “jack of all trades, master of none,” to which I’d have to call hooey. Jones’ father, a cook, discouraged his son from becoming one. “My dad loved his work, but it was tough grunt work and bad pay ... kind of like it is now,” Jones laughs. “But now with cachet for a few.” The young Jones studied geology at Waterloo University, then headed to Cowtown, where he landed a fat-figure job and met his wife, Lynn. In Calgary, he devoured more than 1,000 cookbooks and deduced that “all the recipes in the world come down to about 10 recipes. It is all in the technique.” Fuelled by this heady realization and

propelled by his revulsion of Alberta’s oil industry, Jones decided to master cooking, with the goal of writing as the endgame. He set off to the U.K. to study at L’École de Cuisine Française Sabine de Mirbeck. The next few years found him in France, back to England, Canada, Hong Kong, China and then Victoria, with consulting gigs in Vancouver and area (including Granville Island Market). He also did two stints at Sooke Harbour House before starting Deerholme Farm. IN HIS ELEMENT One week after our first meeting, under a matte sky and heavy rain, I drive up to Deerholme Farm for a walk with Jones and his border collie/soulmate Oliver — and some lunch. In the pastoral paradise of Deerholme Farm, I feel my hectic Victoria life seeping from my bones as I muse at Jones’ drastic lifestyle changes, from London kitchens to this chill backwoods retreat. Reminiscing about his U.K. days, Jones says, “It’s a horrible industry, and the kitchens in London are the worst. You have to be an asshole. Not to say I have never yelled at someone [here], but it has been a long while.” At Deerholme, Jones’ life seems serene. Along with long-table dinners, he hosts classes, wildfood dinners and workshops in foraging and mushroom

picking. By design, his life in the Cowichan is a far cry from urban abuse and chaos but also from the “challenge to conquer and the adrenaline of a kitchen when it is all flowing.” LURE OF THE MUSHROOMS One of the culinary treasures Jones is considered an expert in is mushrooms. His love affair with them began in his early 30s when he worked at La Cheneaudiere (then a twoMichelin-star establishment) in Alsace, France. He remembers an elderly villager named Marc who delivered porcini mushrooms (cepe) to the back door each night. His first experience tasting the porcinis was profound. “I’d never tasted anything like that before,” he recalls. One day, spotting Marc at the lone bar in town, he asked, in a wreck of French and sign language, if Marc would take him mushroom picking. “Non,” Marc replied. Jones bought him a beer, and asked again. “Mmm, non.” The next day, Jones asked again. “Non.” Then, when Jones said he was soon leaving for Canada and promised not to tell anyone where the mushrooms were (and maybe ponied up another beer), he got the answer he wanted to hear: “Oui.” As he followed Marc on his mushroomfinding mission, he was transfixed. Marc knew the trees mushrooms liked, the plants they grew near and the brightly coloured

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

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“signifier” mushrooms that pointed the way to the real gems. Little did Jones know that in time he would live in a part of the world where mushrooms are abundant and he would become known, for better or for worse, as “the mushroom guy.” People would travel from all over the world to learn, forage, explore and eat with Bill Jones at Deerholme Farm. FLAVOURS OF THE COWICHAN After a walk in the woods, it’s time for lunch. We begin with a salad: greens from Jones’ garden, with small cubes of aged cheddar, a wild-plum dressing and slivers of “smoked local deer,” Jones says with humour, so I ask, “How local?” He shrugs. The wild-plum dressing is tart and sweet against the rich, smoky deer, and the bright greens are lovely. It’s still raining hard. We avoid Oliver’s hopeful “walk NOW?” stare, and Bill serves up a rice congee. I wrap my hands around the bowl, warming my face with the steam. The congee has Chinese greens, local chicken confit and miso in it. It’s succulent, salty and so comforting in this room, with long tables meant for many — a cozy, relaxed room full of whisperings of delicious, wild and wonderful things. The walls and shelves are covered with geodes and nutmeg graters, countless mushroom knickknacks, empty tins of caviar, intricate mushroom murals by Jones’ friend, Victoria Oginski. Oliver lies back on the door mat, chewing on a hazelnut from the tree outside, his eyes adoring and eager, never leaving Jones, who returns the dog’s unconditionally fond gaze. “Sometimes he is very smart, and sometimes he is very dumb. Just like me,” says Jones. There’s a compelling confidence in absolutely meaning that, which I think he does. For Jones, cooking is like jazz. You can improvise and bring in different instruments. I ask if he plays an instrument. “Guitar.” “Do you sing?” “Alone, poorly.” In keeping with his relish for riffing on recipes and ingredients is Jones’ distaste for regional specialties. “I can’t imagine making the same thing day in, day out. It would kill me.” And although he’s a staunch supporter of local food, Jones does not subscribe to local only, due to the limitations it places on his creativity. “I like lemons. I like olive oil. I want to cook with them, so I do.” WHAT THE LAND REVEALS Walking down to a neighbour’s man-made lake so Oliver can take a dip, Jones talks me through his home and gardens and his extensive renovations, which he completed himself. I ask if he hunts. “No.” As a child, he and his brother would

make snares to catch rabbits. Once, Jones used a shotgun. “You got it!” cheered his brother. “Where did the head go?” Jones gasped. He changes the subject. “This stinging nettle is just coming up. Great in soups,” he says. He pauses and adds, “The tea would be good for your cough.” He grasps the bough of a grand fir, with the familiar ease of one touching an old friend’s shoulder. Handing me a clutch of the needles, he invites me to crush them, inhale the scent. “Grapefruit,” I say. “Yes, citrus. We make ice cream with it, and use it for salmon and sauces.” Tramping along, breathing in the heady musk of the dirt and the crisp bite in the air, I look around. Jones’ experience of this walk is far richer than mine. I don’t perceive the tendrils of future recipes peeking through the soil. I don’t scan the grass to check for signifier mushrooms to keep in mind for later. From his background in geology and mapping to his childhood in the forests of Nova Scotia to his passion for food and nature to his in-depth understanding of science and herbal remedies and wild food, Jones has an intimate relationship with the landscape we behold as we walk together. He doesn’t sit still a lot during our time together. He talks of his visceral desire to keep reinventing himself. We speak of everything from mushrooms to the recently deceased David Bowie, “the chameleon.” But there’s no nervous energy in Jones’ constant motion, no embedded “gotta goness.” Instead, his movements present with grounded alacrity and a deep curiosity that delights in and thrives on learning. “I have a lot of useless knowledge in my head.” He shrugs. Still, there’s a palpable enjoyment of his environment and of himself as a part of that. GUILTY PLEASURES? As we are near the end of our walk, I ask about his favourite thing to cook right now. “Dungeness crab, one of the world’s best crabs. Right here. It’s healthiest in winter. The shells are hard; the meat is dense.” I try to pry from him what his lowgrade guilty-pleasure food is. Cheez Whiz? Twizzlers? He won’t budge except to say he likes BC Ferries breakfasts. Not even the buffet. We say our goodbyes and I head back to Victoria, sated. The next day, I discover what my favourite thing to cook right now is, and it is the pan-seared scallops and Japanese-style mushrooms from The Deerholme Mushroom Book: From Foraging to Feasting. And my low-grade guilty pleasure? Rockets and Cheezies, thanks. No BC Ferries breakfasts for me, Bill. ::

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YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

OUTSTANDING HOMES By Carolyn Heiman Photography by Joshua Lawrence

WITH GREAT RESPECT FOR THE FOREST, THIS COUPLE BUILT THEIR HOME ON DENMAN ISLAND, CREATING AN EMINENTLY LIVABLE WORK OF ART.

INTO THE WOODS

t is little surprise that wood — and the ways it would be used — received careful contemplation when Hamish Kimmins and his wife Annie built their West Coast home on Denman Island. Hamish spent his career as a forest ecologist, instilling sustainable forest management practices in his students who studied under him when he was a professor at the University of British Columbia. His contributions to the field were celebrated when he was appointed to the Order of Canada in 2014. The natural, forested setting overlooking the ocean to Vancouver Island signalled that wood should be a dominant feature in the home. But the couple also wanted to minimize the impact on forests in the construction. And they have done that, without diminishing the warm embrace that wood brings to a home. “We didn’t use any pre-cut lumber to build the house,” Hamish says. Instead they used recycled wood, including an 800-year-old timber that served time as a stringer on a forestry bridge now being reconstructed using steel. The magnificent specimen, seven feet in diameter and approximately 52 feet long, was cut on site into gleaming fine-grain, knotand resin pocket-free beams

worthy of being showpieces in a Japanese temple. There was special pleasure in personally selecting the log from the Canfor Forest Products site near Woss, taking the time to count all 800 rings in the reclaimed log. Rejected telephone poles, sourced from Courtenay’s Chinook Forest Products and lathed to reveal swirls of natural grain and knots, were used for supporting timbers while the 60-year-old second-growth trees that had to be taken down because they stood where the house is now were used in the ceiling planking. Falling House, named for its cascading design down the gentle slope of the property, minimized traditional framing through the use of cost-effective insulated concrete forms for much of the foundation, lending strength, stability and thermal efficiency to the project perched on a slope. The design of the 2,800-squarefoot, two-bedroom home is officially credited to Etienne de Villiers of Etienne Design, a local builder-designer who is sought after on Denman Island, Hornby Island and Vancouver Island. But de Villiers is quick to pass credit back to Annie for redirecting the design approach to the home. Initially, he and Hamish pored over concepts, coming up with towering

ideas for the property which prompted Annie to send him back to the drawing board “and I’m glad she did.” Today, the home, designed as a series of dart-like structures pointing in different directions, is uniquely and perfectly nestled on its surrounding land as if it was always meant to be there. Standing at the home’s threshold, the dart design naturally draws the visitor’s eye deeper into the interior and beyond to the ocean. While often a commanding ocean view can take attention away from a home’s interior, here a combination of curves and angles work together to create a dynamic yet harmonious interior where the eye wants to linger. Annie calls the home simple inside but with a complicated

design, an apt description and a reason why the home functions well yet remains so esthetically pleasing. The flow of the home, with private spaces such as bedrooms, office/libraries and an after studio on the left, and the public spaces like the living room, kitchen and powder room to the right, feels natural, intuitive and, most important to the owners, comfortable. Specializing in West Coast design, de Villiers categorizes Falling House as a modern home, but it’s one that will stand the test of time to become an enduring classic. “Styles of architecture do date themselves, but the most successful houses stay current.… The Kimmins’ home is almost a piece of art in itself.” ::

< The overall design of the home, with its angled rooms and dramatic vaulted wood ceilings, creates a sense of arrows pointing to new vistas in every direction. Exterior: Board-and-batten and stucco with acrylic topping are married for a low-maintenance exterior while the charcoal-grey standing seam metal roof promises 40 years will pass before it will need replacing.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

This page: Vaulted ceilings point to a picturesque view from a living room set up for casual comforts and conversational ease. Opposite: A custom-made table, purposely left with an unfinished surface for cleaning ease, sits on radiant-heated concrete floors that are comfortable in bare feet. Acidstained with black, the floor has the patina of well-worn leather.

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K I TC H E N S

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Seven is Annieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lucky number and, looking closely, it is the shape of the curved kitchen island. Flame-cut granite is used for the countertop. Treated with a blow torch, it has a soft matte finish and cuts any glare that would come from the expanse of oceanfront windows. Panels of copper accent the cabinetry below the counter and were chosen over stainless steel to add warmth to the area. Laminated strips of black walnut have been shaped into a gentle arc, creating a comfortable island to sit at near the kitchen action. Inexpensive concrete forms in the cabinetry add an element of surprise and textural interest.

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A dramatic entrance punctuated by angles and magnificent wood pillars creates a powerful statement for the home, in which wood is part of its signature.

RESOURCE LIST Design: Etienne de Villiers, Etienne Design

Materials: Central Builders and Slegg Building Materials

Home builders: Luc Trepanier, Bart Goddard, Randy Duncan and Gemini Beckman

Concrete work: Alpine Concrete

Millwork: Tony Baker and Lucie Thivierge

Heating and cooling: Finlayson Insulators

Plumbing: John Reed Plumbing

Heat pump supply and install: Jim Newberry

Roofing: Nelson Roofing

Metal work: Les Colville

Windows: Westeck Windows and Doors

Machine work: Dusty Prowse Contracting

On-site glazing: Capital Glass

Exterior carvings: Ted Mahood

Concrete supply: Hyland Precast

check out chef tod’s weekly fresh sheet

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

BEST EATS IN VICTORIA BY CINDA CHAVICH

Seaside Chippy At Red Fish Blue Fish, the Ocean Wise fish (Pacific cod, wild salmon, B.C. halibut, even oysters) is fried in crispy tempura batter and served with Kennebec chips on the side. Enjoyed from a sunny stool on the pier, it’s a local fish-andchips lunch that’s about as green as it gets.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

ALL PHOTOS: JEFFREY BOSDET | STYLING: JANICE HILDYBRANT

Victoria is blessed with a wealth of small, independent restaurants, creative chefs, beautiful bakers, bold butchers and cheesemakers — in short, a food scene that’s vibrant and growing organically every day, literally from the ground up. We live in a virtual kitchen garden, where local farms, orchards and vineyards supply these creators with the best raw materials and inspiration. There are so many choices, but every so often there’s a bite that pulls you in, and brings you back for more. So each year I like to look back at some of the tastiest things I’ve discovered, and celebrate the abundance of delicious dishes, noshes and treats in our midst. These are a few of my favourite things for 2016, in no particular order.

Cake Queen Susannah Ruth Bryan of Ruth & Dean Baked Goods makes incredibly beautiful cakes and pretty pies. Stop in at their little luncheonette and see what creative cake is available for tasting — think Earl Grey and lavender, vanilla with macerated blackberries, or chocolate vanilla drizzled in caramel. Almost too pretty to eat!

Ruth & Dean’s 12-layer Neapolitan cake, with vanilla and chocolate cake, strawberry compote, and strawberry Swiss-butter cream

Wherefore Art Thou?

Shared Experience

Whether she’s happy or blue, Juliette is my cheese of choice from Salt Spring Island Cheese. Just belly up to the cheese bar in the Victoria Public Market for a taste of the offerings from this great local artisan cheesemaker. But don’t miss the creamy Juliette or the blueveined Blue Juliette — a cheese by any other name!

Order a family-style meal at Café Brio and let chef Laurie Munn choose six dishes from his great menu — from crispy duck confit, warm lentils and celery root purée to pan-seared salmon with faro and spinach risotto. It’s the kind of food that keeps bringing me back to this comfortable café, where the feeling of hospitality is always warm and genuine.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

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Saveur’s gnocchi with smoked beet purée, housemade ricotta, pickled fennel, walnuts, watercress and green apple foam

Savour Saveur

The big Hangover breakfast at Saveur would cure what ails two average eaters, so come for brunch, but don’t miss the evening Chef’s Pairing Menu for a selection of West Coast wonders, from parsnip soup with pickled pear to gnocchi with squash and wildmushroom soil, or braised Cowichan beef cheek with cedar potato crust and fir jus.

Only On Sunday Local baker Byron Fry takes a break on Sundays but never gives the wood-fired oven at Fry’s Red Wheat Bread a rest. Instead he puts it to work baking pizza for the weekly takeout pizza party. Come early (from noon until the dough runs out) for a seasonal menu of hearty pies featuring local products, from a meaty pizza with Whole Beast chorizo, salami, preserved lemon and olives to The Flambe, a very Alsatian combo of leeks, herbed crème fraîche and bacon.

Sweet Sandwich Cold Comfort is Victoria’s premier ice cream company — organic and local ingredients whipped into creative seasonal flavours that run the gamut, from bay laurel and birch to salted caramel or Dark Matter beer. But put the Valrhona chocolate ice cream between chocolate butter cookies and you’ve got the Big Chocolate O(MG), a sweet sandwich you’ll dream about. Watch for regular DIY sandwich days — a chance to create your own combo on an awesome Empire Donut.

Egg Head My favourite pub nosh is the Scotch egg, and they make a tasty rendition at the Six Mile Pub. This is B.C.’s oldest pub (est. 1856), but its current claim to fame is the food — locally sourced meats and Ocean Wise fish, with house-made specialties like these little quail eggs enrobed in Two Rivers sausage meat and fried to perfection, with Branston pickle. The pub even keeps its own bees!

Duck Delights When you go to Choux Choux Charcuterie it’s hard to decide which of the housemade pâtés, rillettes, sausages and other meaty artisan products to choose. Add some of their imported cheeses, and it’s the perfect place to fill your picnic basket. But don’t leave without the duck — from confit to crépinette (a sort of sausage encased in caul fat) — to sear at home and serve with a salad. Magnifique!

Love at f irst Bite It’s the best of the best Cut from the top 12% of Canada AAA beef. Sterling Silver beef is more richly flavoured than lower grades of beef, providing exceptional tenderness, juiciness and taste in every bite or your money back. It’s beautifully marbled Marbling is the white flecks of fat within the muscle that melt into the meat as it cooks, giving it succulent flavour. Sterling Silver beef is highly marbled for superior taste and texture. It’s aged just right Sterling Silver cuts are naturally aged no fewer than 21 days to maximize tenderness and richness of flavour.

Customer Care 1-800-667-8280 | Visit thriftyfoods.com

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

Fol Epi-c They not only make the best baguette in town, Fol Epi Bakery now has a new restaurant, Agrius, where you can enjoy all of their baked goods and more. The Yarrow Meadows duck breast with preserved apricot, acorn squash and duck-liver sauce was a standout entrée, but you can also try their crispy pork belly báhn-mì or a hearty beef brisket and sauerkraut sandwich on their epic bread.

Cinni-Ful Buns I don’t make cinnamon buns, but my mom did, and for pure nostalgia I can’t find a better bun than the big soft spirals at Bubby Rose’s Bakery & Café on Cook Street. My kind of cinnamon roll is simple — no need for embellishments like raisins or gooey icing — and their unadorned buns are perfection. Butter, eggs, time and care.

Sirene Siren Taylor Kennedy’s Sirene handcrafted chocolate bars will call your name like some mystical maiden after the first bite passes your lips. Think 73 per cent chocolate, made with Camino Verde cacao from Ecuador, heightened with a touch of local Island fleur de sel. Bean-to-bar creations, made from beans that are sorted, roasted, winnowed, ground, aged and moulded by hand, right here in Victoria.

Vegan Vibe Though I’m not a vegan, I crave the fermented cashew nut “cheese” slathered on crunchy, seedy, gluten-free crack bread at Nourish Kitchen & Cafe. Wash it down with a mug of broth from their Bone Broth Bar or a fizzy probiotic kefir water — all healthy, all the time.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

Fol Epi’s beef brisket and sauerkraut sandwich

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Chicken and Waffles, Oh My! At North 48, this southern specialty always tastes more-ish — a crispy fried chicken breast perched on a savoury corn, cheddar and green onion waffle, with a drizzle of sweet, chili-infused maple syrup.

Classic Bagels Montreal is the home of classic Canadian bagels, and Victoria’s Mount Royal Bagel Factory channels that tradition. When the owners arrived from Quebec more than 20 years ago and found no decent bagels, they got an authentic Jewish recipe and set out to create their own. This hidden gem in Fernwood supplies bagels to cafés and retailers, or you can buy them fresh by the baker’s dozen. A schmear of cream cheese on a toasted onion bagel will cure almost any bagel craving.

Taco ‘Bout This La Taqueria recently opened a Victoria version of their authentic north-ofthe-border Mexican taco stand. Line up at the concrete-and-ceramic-tile bar for their housemade corn tortillas topped with braised beef cheek, al pastor pork and pineapple, free-range chicken with mole sauce, or refried beans with queso.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

Next Beautiful Bento The Next Japanese restaurant in Cook Street Village creates some of the most beautiful food in the city. From the miso soup with slender enoki mushrooms to the grilled salmon on soba noodles, there are so many great dishes to try. But the lunchtime bento box is the real deal — an amazing selection of soup, salad, sashimi, tempura, noodles and sushi, all for less than 20 bucks!

Taste Of Spain Chorizo & Co. has some seriously Spanish sandwiches, whether you have the breakfast bocato of chorizo, manchego and runny fried egg on a tender brioche bun, or the “Completo” with the works — olivada, serrano ham, chorizo, manchego and peppery greens on a chewy baguette. Or go straight to the impressive selection of fresh potato-and-egg tortillas displayed along the bar. Muy bueno!

Marzipan Moments If you love marzipan — and pastry — there may be no match better than the tender almond croissants from Patisserie Daniel. Encrusted with slivers of toasted almonds, dusted with a flurry of icing sugar, and filled with housemade marzipan, this is true almond joy.

900

WOOD-FIRED PIZZERIA 2401 Millstream Road 250-590-4493 www.900-degrees.ca

Salumi (sa·lu·mi) noun – Italian cured meat appetizer

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

Victoria Pie Co.’s spinach, feta, sundried tomato and basil pie (left) and butterbourbon-pecan pie

Pie To Die For The Victoria Pie Co. is a favourite spot to find a perfect sweet or savoury pie. Toss a salad and heat up one of their chicken pot pies, a steak-and-mushroom pie with caramelized onions, or a vegetarian mushroom, potato and Gruyère quiche, and dinner is served. There’s even a Pie of the Month club so you can get their specialty pies delivered to your door.

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Fun never asks how old you are. It’s much more fun to swing a little now and again with friends — staying healthy and strong for life’s third act. I’ve earned it.

Independent and assisted living choices for today’s senior

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at Norgarden

Go East Whether it’s olives, artisan pasta, Turkish delight or feta cheese, Fig Deli has a great selection of quality Mediterranean imports. But look for what’s made in the store, too. Take home their feta and red pepper or walnut mouhamara spreads, cumin-scented Egyptian Koshari (a lentil, macaroni and caramelized onion combo) or the manoushi, a kind of Middle Eastern thin flatbread/pizza topped with spicy ground meat or halloumi cheese, hot out of the oven.

Babe’s Buzz Babe’s Honey produces lovely local honey and now they’re brewing a bubbly probiotic beverage called Jun. This honey-based version of the popular kombucha tea is fermented with green tea and Babe’s own Island honey, and infused with flavours ranging from ginger and jasmine to hibiscus. Try the refreshing, lemony version made with citra hops, in 355 ml bottles or refillable growlers, from their farm store.

Simply Soup To Go I’m smitten with the tasty soups made daily at the little Mason Jar Eatery in Cordova Bay. Pick up their soups, literally by the Mason jar, and return the jars to refill another day. A recent rich yam and coconut potage made a simple supper with a cheesy scone on the side. Take home a sliver of their “Elvis Cake” for dessert — the king of banana breads, with the addition of peanut butter, and chocolate, too!

Tuna Tataki

Eat. Drink. CElEbratE. fresh spring flavours 250.385.5643 | glovictoria.com 2940 Jutland Rd. Victoria, on the Selkirk Waterway

Rotating Revelations Part & Parcel rotates its creative local menu with the seasons so you never know what delicious daily special will turn up on the chalkboard. I love the Ma Po Tofu dish, topped with a perfect poached egg, but you might luck out with tender handmade cavatelli pasta, octopus and oyster rice croquettes, or black lime pork belly with charred broccoli. Or just try the fried chicken sandwich. Always inspired!

Fool For Foo Foo Street Food is a go-to spot for takeout and I never leave without a cardboard carton of their pulled pork and pineapple rice. Double fried, sweet and salty, it’s a guilty pleasure. Or go for a big bowl of noodle soup from their latest endeavour, Foo Ramen. From the locally made noodles to crispy pork belly, seared Albacore tuna and their own pork broth, it’s where the Far East meets the West Coast. ::

design | build | interiors

info@zebragroup.ca

250.360.2144

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

Smart modern design, perfect furniture picks and sleek custom built-ins mean this stylish Victoria couple can live large in their small-scale home. By Athena McKenzie | Photos by Jeffrey Bosdet

SMALL SPACE AMPLIFIED STYLE 46

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

eyond its undeniable stylishness, one of the most striking aspects of Jody and David Adelman’s new townhouse is how they’ve optimized the space. It’s not surprising, given they own Parc Modern, which specializes in sophisticated furnishings and home décor that fit the smaller scale of today’s condos and homes. The Adelmans’ expertise was put to full use for their move — with their two dogs, Bentley and Lincoln — from a onelevel, 1,400-square-foot condo into the 1,260-square-foot, three-level townhouse. “People actually think it’s bigger than our old space because there are different levels and it’s so open,” David says. Large, floor-to-ceiling architectural windows provide an abundance of natural light, and high ceilings and an open, flowing floor plan contribute to the spacious feel. A glassed-in floating staircase with large skylights above creates a column of light at the centre of the home, helping define the interior. “When you walk in the front door, you can see right through the kitchen and living room and out the back windows,” Jody says. “There are no walls or obstacles obstructing your line of sight and cutting up the space into small rooms.” EUROPEAN INSPIRED Their new home is part of the Frank development by Aryze: a six-unit townhome complex in James Bay and within easy walking distance of the Inner Harbour and Dallas Road. “We have always been intrigued by the brownstone-style homes in Brooklyn and their counterparts in Europe, where each home has a shared wall and a driveway entering into a garage on the lower level,” says Ryan Goodman, manager of development and land acquisition for Aryze. “We wanted to provide a highly functional home that was better, not bigger ... a condo alternative with multiple floors of living space.”

The neutral colour palette creates an airy, spacious flow through the interior. The kitchen features rift-oak shelving and eco-friendly birch plywood cabinets. The treads of the floating staircase were milled from old-growth cedar reclaimed from the Royal Victoria Yacht Club.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

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YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

A monochromatic colour scheme helps with the seamless transition from room to room and floor to floor. The Adelmans credit Parc Modern designer Ben Tombs, who helped with colour and material selections. “We stuck with greys, earth tones, offwhites and taupes,” David says. “To add visual interest, there are different textures and elements, such as marble, steel, wood, riff-cut oak and leather. Touches of colour are brought in art and accessories.” SMALL-SCALE SOLUTIONS Along with custom built-ins, including a shoe rack in the foyer, a buffet in the dining room and an entertainment panel in the living room, furniture choice was an essential element in optimizing the space. A small sectional and chair provide flexibility and functionality in seating in the living room. Round nesting tables, which are easier to get around than square or rectangular options, provide a pleasing visual contrast to the linear upholstered furniture. “You need to be cognizant of the room shape and scale, and be careful not to overfill it,” David says. “Just because you have 10 feet doesn’t mean you should have a 10-foot sectional.” Upstairs, the second bedroom has been converted into a multi-function room, and can be used as an office, ironing room, yoga/workout space and guest suite. The sliding barn door means that none of the space is taken up with door swing, which is especially important when the sofa bed is extended.

An ironing board in the multi-function room pulls down from the wall and is neatly hidden away when not in use. It even has storage space for the iron behind it.

SMALL-SPACE LIVING TIPS from Jody and David Adelman

• Don’t overfill with furniture. You need negative space and ingress and egress to be able to get around the furniture. Instead of a large sectional, consider a sofa, a chair and a couple of ottomans for functionality and flexibility. • Keep the colour scheme monochromatic so the space flows. You can add visual interest by using different textures. • Lighting is key. You can never have enough. Add pot lights where possible. Dimmers are essential in creating atmosphere through lighting. • When downsizing, absolutely do not bring all your furniture. Bring those couple of pieces that you love and think may fit — but sell everything else. • Use touch latches on cabinets in tiny bathrooms where handles will take up too much space. • Invest in multifunctional pieces such as dining tables that extend, nesting tables and pullout sofas. Install pullout drawers in your kitchen cabinetry.

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YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

The light, neutral palette extends through the whole house, even into the bathrooms. The space next to the shower in the master bath was originally closed in with drywall and would have been wasted, but the Adelmans had it opened up and added shelving for towels and bathroom essentials.

Large IKEA closets in both bedrooms provide ample storage. Baseboards and mouldings were used to make them look like built-ins. “We had a nice walk-in closet in our condo, but we like these even better,” Jody says. “The hanging is more organized and we have custom features, such as a jewelry tray and double-level shoe racks.” CUSTOM ADD-ONS Because David and Jody purchased their home in the framing stage of the project, there was some flexibility in customizing their unit. This is most evident with the powder room on the first floor, which did not exist in the original design. “No first-floor bathroom was a deal breaker for me,” Jody says. “So we shortened the kitchen a bit to put in the powder room. We have guests that are a little more elderly, and hopefully we’ll have grandchildren down the road. We don’t want to be running up and down the stairs.” This eye to detail and planning for the future is evident throughout. While the “bonus room” downstairs is now a media room, the Adelmans say they can convert

bueno

it to an in-house gym or an extra guest room, depending on need. “Of course, if we have lots of grandchildren and family visiting us all the time, we might have to go bigger again!” David jokes. For now, though, the Adelmans see a long future in their small space, biking the area and walking Lincoln and Bentley around the Inner Harbour. “It’s a different lifestyle,” David says. “And we love it.” ::

1023 Fort Street, Victoria BC, V8V 3K5 250 920 7653 www.heartandsoleshoes.ca

RESOURCES Builder: Aryze Development and Construction Architect: Low Hammond Rowe Architects Landscaping: Biophilia Furnishings and accessories: Parc Modern Custom cabinetry and interior design: David Adelman and Ben Tombs Building envelope: Chouinard Exterior Wall Systems

COMPLETE EYE EXAMINATIONS BY

DR. JASON MAYCOCK DR. TOBY VALLANCE DR. MANDY LETKEMANN OPTOMETRISTS

Doors and hardware: McGregor & Thompson Flooring and tile: Island Floor Centre Framing and construction materials: Home Lumber & Building Supplies Countertops: Exotic Stone Finishing carpentry: AP Woodworks Tempered glass railings and walls: B & E Glass and Mirror Electrical contractor: CBS Electrical Plumbing and mechanical contractor: Deep Cove Plumbing and Gas Painting: High End Painting Plumbing fixtures: Bartle & Gibson Fresh florals: Poppies Floral Art

Client: Maycock Eyecare YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016 Publication: YAM Magazine - MAY/JUNE 2016 Shipping Date: TBD Ad Size: 4.94” X 4.7”

South Island

Sidney Sidney

The Shortest Distance to Far Away

idney’s boutique shops offer quality goods always with a smile: from the latest in fashion and books to delightful baked goods and flowers; from gift shops to pet shops to supermarkets, liquor stores and all that’s in between! Sidney brings new meaning to “shop local.” Every effort is made to highlight local and Canadian-made goods with just enough from around the world to add a bit of extra sparkle. Italian shoes, British clothes, Turkish jewelry, and tea from around the world are just a few of the very special products you’ll enjoy in Sidney. Sidney is home to multiple health and wellness facilities, too. From spas to registered massage therapists to skilled acupuncturists and other health professionals, Sidney can help you unwind and renew body, mind and spirit. Locals and visitors alike love Sidney, not just for all it offers, but also because of its beautiful, clean and safe environment, the opportunity to explore and enjoy the natural world, but mostly because of its friendly, caring people. The strong sense of community pulls people back to Sidney year after year and it’s the pride and love for the town that keeps people here. Come see for yourself. Island life doesn’t get any better than this!

Sidney Festivals & Events

March: April: May:

August:

June:

Sidney Fine Art Show

LEGO Exhibit, Sidney Museum Merchants Spring Open House Sidney Street Market (Thursday, May - Aug) World Oceans Day Spring Studio Tour

July:

Sidney Days, Canada Day Celebrations Sidney’s Sidewalk Sale Summer Sounds (Jul & Aug)

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Torque Masters Car Show Extravaganza First Nations, Inuit and Metis Art Show Bed Races on Beacon

October: ArtSea Festival Fall Studio Tour

December: Christmas in Sidney

Breakfast with Santa

Sidney Sparkles Parade New Year’s Eve Gala

For more info, visit distinctlysidney.ca/section-events

distinctlysidney.ca

info@distinctlysidney.ca

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What Moms Know Lessons of life and love With Mother’s Day approaching, YAM talks to four inspiring moms who have each experienced their own struggles and joys. They shared their profound life lessons about unconditional love, and how they learned to let go and trust that voice of inner wisdom. By Karen Elgersma

hen I was a little girl my favourite game to play was “house.” According to my mom, every day I would ask my older brothers, neighbours, anyone, if they wanted to play “house” with me. Apparently, I always wanted to be the mom. Then I grew up, and just two days before Christmas, in my 27th year, I became a real-life mom. During the past 21 years, my role as a mom has evolved dramatically. I have cried, laughed, screamed and prayed my way through this bumpy journey — and with each high and low I have slowly inched my way into becoming the woman I want to model to my kids. My children have taught me that I can’t just teach confidence, love, generosity, kindness, discipline; I have to live it, and my 12-year-old son and 21-year-old daughter have been excellent teachers. These lessons don’t come easily, but darn it, we moms do love to share our war stories. Not only is this sharing cathartic, our stories have the power to teach, inspire and help us know we are not alone. In honour of Mother’s Day, I sat down with four mamas, each with some serious mojo and a story that will give you a reason or two to celebrate motherhood. WHAT MOTHERHOOD MEANS TO HER When I met Julie Cove 20 years ago, she was a successful designer, with her own home décor store. I called her the Martha Stewart of Vancouver Island, and Julie often appeared on TV with me, inspiring us all

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

with her creative DIY ideas. Today, she is the author of the new cookbook Eat Better, Feel Better, Look Better and is one of the most fun and creative moms I know. But what really makes Julie a rock-star mom is that this confident, strong woman was orphaned at five and grew up in foster care, living in four different homes by the time she was 18 and could live on her own. “It wasn’t easy growing up without a mom,” she says. “I longed for someone who would just love me unconditionally. Even the simple things, like having someone who can care for you, go to your soccer games, make sure you get to school safely. I became independent quickly because I knew I had to depend on myself for those things.” When Julie became a mom, she had some underlying fears, since she didn’t have any great role models from her own childhood. She says, “I am the kind of person who just figures it out. If I wanted to know how to do something I would ask friends, other moms and even strangers, and I would always get amazing ideas.” Julie is open to hearing what anyone has to offer; the only thing she won’t tolerate is when people complain about their moms. “It just irks me; they have no idea how lucky they are to have a mom, to have someone who loves them.” Julie has taught me that sometimes you just need to drop what you are doing and play. She says, “You don’t want to regret not taking the time with your kids to do the fun things that create the precious memories.” Memories she wished she could have had with her mom.

Julie Cove visits with her daughter in her Sidney studio. Orphaned at age five and with no mother as role model, Julie relied on the advice of other moms to guide her on her own journey through motherhood.

JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

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YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

THE HERO IN HER OWN STORY When I met Michelle Ford and her husband, Chris, they were madly in love, travelling the world, taking dance lessons and renovating their cute little heritage home in Sidney. Then tragedy hit, and Chris got cancer. Just days after Chris died, Michelle found out she was pregnant with their first daughter. This courageous young mom decided to have another child, and through the miracle of science (in vitro fertilization) she gave birth to their second daughter a few years later. This tall, beautiful, artistic mama never ceases to amaze me. She lives this big, adventurous, crazy life. Her blog is filled with stories and photos of her and her girls riding horses in Australia, exploring France (her favourite place to visit), the latest painting she is working on (she’s also an artist, and art student) and updates of her kids’ achievements in karate. It isn’t always easy. Michelle didn’t expect her life to turn out this way. “I have found myself breaking with the tradition of what a family should be and letting go of the weight of those old values,” she says. She believes the secret to finding deep joy as a single mom is embracing her family just the way it is. “I am trying to do things in a new way — it wasn’t the life I planned — but I am paving a new way of looking at what it means to be a mom, and a family, and I’m passing this knowledge to my children.” If Michelle is having a bad day, she doesn’t spend time feeling sorry for herself. Instead she blasts some music and dances around the

house. Now working on a fine arts degree, she says she strives every day to be the hero in her own story and to teach her girls to do the same, and when I hang out with this modern mama I always leave feeling a little braver. “The loss is immeasurable,” she says, “but also immeasurable is the love left behind. So be indefatigable … Time waits for no one. Be adventurous!” YOU HAVE TO FIGURE IT OUT Annie Wong-Harrison is a crazy-successful entrepreneur who loves running her two businesses, National Car and Truck Sales, Leasing and Rentals, and the Arbutus Inn. Also the CEO of three children, Annie magically juggles multiple offices across the Island and Lower Mainland, while cooking a dinner for 12. Her secret? According to Annie, the credit belongs to her mom and her children. Her Chinese-Canadian mom taught her how to be self-sufficient and hold true to her values, and her kids, well, they blessed her with a wicked sense of humour. “My husband and I didn’t plan our first child, who we had at 24, and we really didn’t expect our third child, who came as a big surprise (post-vasectomy kind of surprise). Having children has taught me how to manage a crisis and deal with unexpected conflict. No matter what happens, you just can’t fire your kids; you have to figure it out.” Laughing, she adds, “These kids are my CEO training; they taught me about relationships, how to be a better person, and to let go of feeling like you can do it all. I learned that it’s OK to make mistakes. You are not perfect, and that’s OK.” Annie’s best advice for spending time with your kids? “Food! Who doesn’t love to sit around the table, eating a yummy meal, talking and laughing? These are my favourite moments.”

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CONFIDENCE COMES IN STAGES I met Barb Bishop Fetherstonhaugh when I did a story on a local rhythmic gymnastics club. Watching Barb choreograph a piece that was both technically difficult and visually stunning was impressive. I was blown away by the respect and love the kids had for her. But what really made an impression was seeing how her daughter, also an instructor, interacted with Barb’s other daughters who were part of the club. The respect and love these sisters had for each other and for Barb was amazing. This mom of three daughters and a son owns a family business and is very involved in her View Royal community. She says her kids taught her the value of faith, love and hope, for herself and others. Having a big family is crazy at times, but she loves the connection they have, “sharing, enjoying our family times, especially the stories, and the crazy humour ....” Barb makes it look easy, but for her the most challenging moments are those of letting go. “Each time I let go I gained a bit of confidence in the journey of our lives, but each change is hard for me, from kindergarten to university, each new driver’s licence, romance, breakup or when they go off travelling alone abroad.” Even though it can be hard, Barb says, “I always listen to their dreams and hopes. Even knowing it means they will be moving away, I encourage them to go for it.” When I ask Barb how she has evolved as a woman and a mom, she gets choked

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“EACH TIME I LET GO I GAINED A BIT OF CONFIDENCE IN THE JOURNEY OF OUR LIVES, BUT EACH CHANGE IS HARD FOR ME, FROM KINDERGARTEN TO UNIVERSITY, EACH NEW DRIVER’S LICENCE, ROMANCE, BREAKUP, OR WHEN THEY GO OFF TRAVELLING ALONE ABROAD.” —Barb Bishop Fetherstonhaugh

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up and says, “I think of the little girl I was, who has lost friends and feared the darkness of the world. But that little girl has learned to believe in the best of the universe, and each day to affirm that we all deserve good, and my kids are the evidence of that. I worry less, enjoy more and breathe deeply.” FINDING MY OWN PATH Writing this article, I find myself leaning in to every word of these brave, smart women, because I am facing a big decision about my own future, as I complete my Master’s in Communications and need to decide what it is I want to do next. So I take all their wise words, store them in my head and go for a hike. I think about how each of these moms wants her children to have the courage to live out their own dreams. One mom tells me the theme in her house is “If you can dream it, you can do it.” As I walk through the rain-drenched forest, I almost feel as if these amazing women have inadvertently mothered me. I also hear my own mom’s wise voice telling me to just be completely honest with myself and have the courage to do what I authentically want to do. Then my daughter Charlotte calls, interrupting my hike and forcing me to put my what-the-heck-am-I-going-to-do-withthe-rest-of-my-life thoughts aside. “Mom,” she says, “I don’t know what to do when I graduate in a few months. I’m panicking. Can you help?”

What can I say? How can I offer my own daughter wisdom when I can’t even figure out what I want? After listening to Charlotte for a few minutes I respond, “You know exactly what to do. Don’t do what you should do — do what your heart is calling you to do, even if no one approves, even if it doesn’t make sense, even if it’s scary.” Then suddenly it hits me — I too know exactly what I should do. I have had a dream of starting my own show for as long as I can remember, but I never had the courage to actually do it.

I can hear a thousand voices in my head telling me why this is a terrible idea, but then I think, “Wait, I need to take the advice I gave my daughter, the wisdom given to me by my mom, by all the moms I know, and just go for the BIG DREAM, no fear, no doubt, no second-guessing.” It took four moms and a daughter’s dilemma to help me come to a place where I find the courage and insight to pursue my heart’s deepest desire. You know, maybe playing “house” and being the mom is just as fun as it was when I was little — and maybe even more so. ::

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YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

PORT RENFREW Outpost of Cool WHEN YOU NEED TO GET AWAY, REALLY AWAY, THEN WILD AND WONDROUS PORT RENFREW SURROUNDS YOU WITH FOREST, SEA AND AS MUCH SERENITY AS YOU CAN HANDLE. By Kerry Slavens

ort Renfrew’s soundtrack is waves. On calm days, they strum the fretted shoreline, home to the Pacheedaht First Nation, who call themselves People of the Sea Foam. On stormy days, the waves drumroll their arrival, tossing trees against jagged rocks like toothpicks. They are the rhythm of life in this Pacific outpost located miles beyond cell reception, and a siren song to people like us, seeking serenity off the beaten track. Truthfully, for years Port Renfrew wasn’t on our radar. My husband, Chris, and I aren’t hikers, so its locale at the West Coast Trail’s southern trailhead wasn’t a draw. Nor are we fishers, so its rep as one of the 60

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

Photography by Joshua Lawrence

world’s best places for ocean and freshwater fishing wasn’t a lure. Yet we are drawn to the promise of wild beauty, so we began to listen up when this tiny community (population: 200-ish) began emitting a Tofino-esque hum or “the rumour of forests and waves,” to quote Flaubert. It all evoked images of beach fires under starry skies, untouched by urban light; of storm watching so dramatic it revs the heartbeat; of primeval forests of giant, gnarled trees; and of the surreal seascapes of Botanical Beach, where, as author Susan Casey might say, “The mysteries come forward in waves.” Along with Chris, my other companion for this escape is Casey’s book The Wave: In

Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks, and Giants of the Ocean. It’s a fitting read for a place which, while not known for Hawaii-size waves, is intrinsically tied to the ocean and has had its share of shipwrecks.

MAGIC OF THE WILD COAST We leave Victoria on a clear morning for our drive along the twisting ribbon of West Coast Highway to Port Renfrew, two hours northwest of Victoria. By the time we pass Sooke, the mist is burning off the fields. Our first stop is the seaside slip of a village, Jordan River, or Rio Jordan as its Spanish founders named it. We order pizza flatbread at the funky Cold Shoulder Cafe then cross the road to watch surfers in wetsuits paddling out like

black seals. Jordan River is a Canadian surfing sweet spot for those willing to brave cold water, especially during winter months when those big, frosty swells roll in. Back on the road, we pass a poetic roll call of beach signs for French Beach, China Beach, Mystic and Sombrio. Soon, cell reception is lost and there’s every sense we’re going to the back of beyond. At some point, fields and forest give way to clearcut swathes. It’s not pretty, but neither is it the whole story of Port Renfrew and the San Juan Valley. There’s a big reason Port Renfrew is home to the annual Tall Tree Music Festival — it has very, very big trees. Arrival in Port Renfrew is a bit of a surprise, as in “surprise, there’s no main

street.” What qualifies as a main drag is the scenic wooden pier flanked by the cedarsided Renfrew Pub and Wild Renfrew’s Seaside Cottages, log cabins that promise rustic luxury and coastal charm. Too early for check-in we decide to make the most of the sunshine and head 20 minutes up a dirt road to one of Port Renfrew’s natural calling cards, Avatar Grove. This verdant temple, 50-plus hectares of soaring Douglas fir and cedar, was saved from logging by the efforts of the Ancient Forest Alliance, guardians of this pocket of old growth, which the B.C. government has deemed an “old growth management area,” not a park. Parking roadside, we take the upper trail in search of the giant Western red cedar, YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

“Canada’s Gnarliest Tree.” For half an hour we hike over spongy, pungent earth and slick roots, across windfalls and a fast-flowing stream until we arrive at the base of the gnarly icon. Some hikers gather there, silently taking in the tree’s almost facelike bulbous burls and gnarls. This tree has all the presence of a forest goddess watching over her ecosystem. As I gaze up, I think of the poem “Lost” by Pacific Northwest poet David Wagoner: Stand still. The trees ahead and bushes beside you Are not lost. Wherever you are is called Here, And you must treat it as a powerful stranger, Must ask permission to know it and be known.

We spend some quiet time in the shadow of the cedar, then head for the Renfrew Pub patio for cold pints of Saltspring beer, calamari and halibut. Sated and sleepy, we clomp down the pier in boots thick with Avatar Grove mud to check into our twobedroom “penthouse” at Wild Renfrew’s Seaside Cottages. Our elevated cottage is log-cabin living at its luxurious best, with a view across the waves to the misty shores of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. Later, we discover this cottage was once a jailhouse, thus its nickname “Alcatraz.” Fortunately, we feel nothing but freedom. My husband lights the gas fire-pit on the huge patio and sinks into a lounge chair, covering himself with a fleece blanket and falling asleep to the sound of waves. I stroll down the pier, past totems Wild Renfrew has commissioned from Pacheedaht artists. Alongside the pier, a geological formation known as a sea stack juts out of the water, carved by wind and waves. On pilings, cormorants pose, holding their wings out in odd crucifix postures I learn are called “wing-drying.” As the sun sets, we head to the Renfrew Pub’s vaulted dining room for a long62

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

The spectacular view from the Wild Coast Cottages takes in the estuary, the pier and the Seaside Cottages.

table spring dinner prepared by Chef Kevin Loewen, whose offerings play with the terroir of this outpost, and could compete in any restaurant, anywhere. Our hosts are Jack Julseth of Three Point Properties and his business partner, his son-in-law Ian Laing, and their family. In 2015, the family purchased the pub, 11 waterfront cabins, now Seaside Cottages, and the land for the Wild Coast Cottages, spectacular vacation cottages on a bluff overlooking the sea, from Richard Bonnycastle, former owner of Harlequin Romance. It’s clear both Jack and Ian have a connection to Port Renfrew that goes deeper than the business opportunity. Jack has fished here for years and loves it. Ian spends lots of time here with his young family, often leaving Victoria on a Friday and spending weekends in Port Renfrew where some locals call Ian “English Ian” for his city style. In Port Renfrew, every second person has a nickname. Speaking of locals, Port Renfrew’s unofficial mayor and a friendly fixture at the Renfrew Hotel is Johnny “Mac” McDonald, an archer who competed in the Seoul Olympics. A former Victoria shipyard worker, Johnny is famous for lending a helping hand with everything from auctioning off his beard in support of the Tall Tree Make Music Program to supplying jerrycans of gas to tourists who didn’t “get” that Port Renfrew has no gas station, though Ian and Jack tell me one is opening this summer. Also imminent is the long-awaited marina with 60 moorage slips, a heli-pad, gas and diesel sales and a rock breakwater for year-

Always a good sign.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

round moorage protection. It will be a vital port in a storm for mariners (on this stretch of coast, there’s nothing else from Sooke to Ucluelet), opening the door to marine tourism.

TAKING THE SEA CURE

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YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

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Sunday morning brings in the surly, big waves that crash and grind against the shore below our penthouse. I can’t capture the feeling better than Susan Casey who wrote, “They move across a faint horizon, the rush of love and the surge of grief, the respite of peace and then fear again, the heart that beats ... the infinite procession of life...” After breakfast, we stormwatch from our deck. A blue heron flies by, a Jurassic outline against a slate sky. A bald eagle rides air currents. No whales, but it’s early in the year. By afternoon, we’re excited to catch low tide at Botanical Beach. I’ve waited so long to visit this epic coastal destination, I worry it won’t live up to its promise. I needn’t have worried. After 15 minutes of hiking an easy forest trail under branches heavy with wet bearded moss, my pulse quickens as I hear the pounding surf, a sound like the rush of breath. Suddenly, the ocean is before us, surging toward a vast beach pockmarked with tidal pools, crisscrossed with driftwood, scarred with striations in black basalt and marked with sandstone sculptures carved by nature. We’re alone here, yet not. The place has palpable presence. The intertidal air is briny, primordial. Isak Dinesen once said, “The cure for anything is salt water — sweat, tears, or the sea.” I breathe deeply and taste salt on the mist. I feel small here and it feels good. My problems, too, are small here. I stare into the tidal pools which, though they lack a summer richness of starfish, gooseneck barnacles, snails and anemones, do yield a few mussels and a leathery brick-hued gumboot chiton. This chunky mollusk suits its nickname (remember how Port Renfrew loves nicknames), “the wandering meatloaf.” As the day darkens, we head back up the trail. We should have left earlier but it was hard to pull ourselves away from the wild beauty. Halfway up the trail, Chris says, “Imagine if you were a cougar and had to hunt every time you wanted to eat.” I think of the cougar and bear signs at the trailhead and pick up my pace. That night, over a pub dinner of superbly tender ribs, we’re grateful we don’t have to hunt like cougars for our next meal. We’re also grateful to have finally “discovered” Port Renfrew, outpost of the kind of cool you can’t make up — an authentic cool that comes from people who know they’re onto a great thing. We vow to return in the summer, taking the Marine Circle from Victoria to the Cowichan to Port Renfrew and back to Victoria via Sooke. Ian promises us summer beach fires and blue skies (“It doesn’t rain much in the summer, you know?”). And that’s the thing about Port Renfrew, if it rains, it doesn’t matter. Just being there is enough. ::

STYLE WATCH Fashion Stylist: Janine Metcalfe Photography by Jeffrey Bosdet

This season invites you to unwind in style. Escape the ordinary and turn heads in the latest trends that are playfully retro yet smartly sophisticated, for that spontaneous getaway.

ESCAPE INTO

SPRING Essential dress ($445) and Ace of Something hat ($98), both from Tulipe Noire; Malene Birger earrings ($165) and Elizabeth and James bracelet ($349), both from Bernstein & Gold.

PALM PRINTS Tommy Bahama dress ($178) and Echo tote bag ($136), both from Fabrications; Channi.B shoes (Heart and Sole, $265); Elk necklace (Tulipe Noire, $58); Malene Birger earrings ($165) and Elizabeth and James bracelet ($349), both from Bernstein & Gold; Bullets & Bones ring (Frances Grey, $160); Quay sunglasses (Reunion, $59).

PEEKA-BOO Azura bathing suit (Beach Rags, $120); Quay sunglasses (Reunion, $59); Wren + Glory bracelet (Frances Grey, $96); Malene Birger earrings ($165) and necklace ($198), and Elizabeth and James bracelet ($349), all from Bernstein & Gold.

SHEER JOY Generation Love top ($235), Bodybag shorts ($140) and Bullets and Bones ring ($160), all from Frances Grey; Malene Birger earrings ($165) and necklace ($198), and Elizabeth and James bracelet ($349), all from Bernstein & Gold.

Malene Birger top ($295), bottoms ($325) and earrings ($165), and Elizabeth and James bracelet ($349), all from Bernstein & Gold; Ace of Something hat (Tulipe Noire, $98); The Trend bag (SheShe Bags, $260); Quay sunglasses (Reunion, $59); Channi.B shoes (Heart and Sole, $265); 1959 Rolls Royce provided by Oak Bay Beach Hotel.

WITH FLARE

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J OE DANDY

By David Alexander

WARM-WEATHER ESSENTIALS Joe Dandy goes shopping for men’s fashion essentials that hit that springtime sweet spot between cool and hot.

pring is here and it’s time to turn your focus to beaches, barbecues — and cocktails best consumed on patios. To help you look as great as you’ll feel, Joe Dandy has come up with a shopping list of seven warm-weather essentials, so when full-on summer arrives, you’ll be ready.

SHORTS There’s nothing like that first sense of freedom that comes from baring one’s legs and toes. Men’s shorts have been getting shorter, but for most of us, keeping them just above the knee is fine. Bright colours are in this year: blues, greens and yellows. But a nicely tailored simple dark short will still do you well. Choose a breathable fabric like denim or cotton that will keep you cool all summer. Feeling self-conscious about showing those legs? Do a few lunges to get back in the game. TIP : Pick a pair of flat-front fitted shorts, nothing baggy — you want a tailored look with a hem just above the knee.

SHIRTS The ’50s are back when it comes to shirts. Think of your uncle Bob’s favourite bowling shirt and you’re looking at the trendiest menswear item this summer. Add a Cuban collar and abstract or geometric patterns and you’re ready to go.

SIMON DESROCHERS

TIP : Don’t go overboard with the pattern; you want stylish rather than eccentric.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

< Andy Stephenson of Sotheby’s Real Estate wears an Altea knit blazer ($495); Outclass shirt ($210); Benson shorts ($135); Outlooks woven belt ($165); Garrett Leight California sunglasses ($375); and Daniel Wellington watch ($295), all from Outlooks for Men.

And if you can’t find what you want in your favourite menswear shop, check out the region’s vintage shops.

HAT The sun can be damaging (but so welcome!), so include a hat as part of your warm-weather wardrobe. For sophistication, a fedora or wide-brimmed Panama will keep you both stylish and shaded. If you’re channeling your inner Gatsby, the boat hat is gaining in popularity — but it takes a bit of guts to pull off. TIP : Under 30? Splurge on a baseball cap. Unusual fabrics are on trend. Over 30? Opt for a porkpie hat. These hats go nicely with a pair of aviators. (If you are really brave, try the gold aviators which are popular this season.)

4 BAG

You’ll need a lightweight bag for your spring outings. A tote bag is a good option, and one in dark canvas or leather is man enough for you to get away with. But make sure it’s small enough to double as a carryon for your longer jet-set spring vacations. TIP : A small canvas duffel gives you flexibility whether you’re heading to the gym, a picnic on the beach or a weekend away.

5 TIE/POCKET SQUARE

Technically, neither of these are considered warm-weather wear. But, Joe Dandy says you don’t have to get rid of all the finishing touches. After all, late spring can be full of formal occasions such as weddings or office meetings that beg for

a tie. Have some fun by picking brightly coloured ties, preferably lightweight, to show that the relaxed, fun-loving you has arrived along with the sun. And while you’re at it, choose a couple of springwise pocket squares to add colour and a finishing touch to your wardrobe. TIP: Pair a bright-yellow patterned tie

and pocket square with a pale grey suit in a lightweight fabric. The colours will pop but still look sophisticated.

SCENT Not only does spring give you a good excuse to change things up when it comes to your particular scent, the heat intensifies fragrances, so those winter notes can become a bit overpowering this season. Now’s the time for fresher scents like citrus, jasmine, mint or ginger. TIP: Clinique’s Happy or Burberry’s

Brit Splash are both great seasonal scents.

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SOCKS Throw off the shackles of socks this spring. Be brave and try sockless socks — invisible socks that protect your feet (and keep your shoes from getting smelly!) but show a good amount of leg. You’ve got sexy ankles; let the world see them. TIP : The ideal shoe for the sockless is a loafer, penny loafer or espadrille. For the office, sockless is tough to pull off, but if you dare, then go for a Derby with a thin sole. With a little tweaking of your wardrobe (the devil is in the details, as they say), you’ll be enviably cool in this warm season. ::

SEASON OF THE TOES Lean in a little — Joe Dandy has a secret. Nothing to be embarrassed about, nothing that can’t be fixed, but you need to spend a little time with your feet this season. After a winter of confinement in boots and shoes, some feet end up looking more like mangled claws — it’s time for a scrub and soak to clean them up and get them ready for the beach. Men, there is no shame in spending some quality time on your feet. Call up your friendly neighbourhood spa and ask for a pedicure. What’s going to happen is you will sit in a comfy chair, your feet will soak and then a trained professional will trim your nails and rub off all the scaly stuff. There will likely be hot towels and foot massages involved. And you will leave feeling incredible. This will ensure your feet are soft, supple and presentable for those outings where you inevitably kick off your shoes. And be brave: if you get a question about polish, go for the clear stuff. No one will really know except you, and you won’t be able to keep your eyes off your shiny toenails. So before you don your new sandals this season, do us all a favour and give your feet some love.

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Whether you are setting a table or sitting at one, proper etiquette makes entertaining and dining out more elegant and enjoyable — not to mention less awkward on formal occasions. In Which Fork Do I Use? Confident and Comfortable Dining, Rosemarie Burns and Linda Reed guide us through the steps of setting a table for various functions, including buffets, brunch, and even sushi dinners, as well as correct dining behaviour for hosts and guests. It’s a great gift book for someone who entertains frequently.

by Jayne Seagrave (TouchWood Editions, 288 pages) is the confidence boost women (especially those over 40) need to launch what could well be a life-changing experience. In addition to a ton of travel tips, nononsense advice and encouragement, Seagrave has chosen 23 North American and European cities and practically planned the itineraries, from leaving the airport to must-see sights. Following Seagrave’s lead, anyone can discover the joy of solo travel — and just imagine where that could lead.

Maybe the Himalayas! S. Bedford’s travel memoir, It’s Only the Himalayas: And Other Tales of Miscalculation from an Overconfident Backpacker (Brindle & Glass, 224 pages) is an entertaining look at those post-graduation backpacking trips so many of us have taken. Sue and her friend Sara, both early 20s, run into all kinds of surprising situations on their 10-month trip in Africa and Asia. Despite some moments that may alarm parents, this is a charming book that inspires the spirit of adventure and longing to travel no matter your age.

FICTION PICKS

The Railwayman’s Wife

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by Ashley Hay (Atria Books, Simon and Schuster, 288 pages)

This book was released in Australia two years ago, in the UK sometime last year and in Canada last month. It astonishes me that it took that long to get here. Nevertheless, it was worth the wait. It’s a lovely story — sad, certainly, and full of tragedy and loss — but also full of love, hope and beauty. Ani — Annika Lachlan — is the central character, and when her husband, Mac, dies suddenly, she becomes a widow with a nine-year-old daughter in a post-World War II town on the Australian coast. (The town is Thirroul, where D.H. Lawrence lived when he wrote Kangaroo, a subject that comes up frequently in this novel.) Ani and Roy McKinnon and Frank Draper, who have both returned from the war, each deal with their own sorrows, making The Railwayman’s Daughter kind of a study of sorrow and the stages of grief. Ani does not believe time heals — it just masks what will always be there. It’s not as depressing as it sounds: there is much strength, and overall it is an uplifting story.

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The North Water by Ian McGuire (Henry Holt & Co, 272 pages)

Here is a novel that is so good you can’t stop reading but, at the same time, so relentlessly brutal in its descriptions that you think you can’t take it. Set in the mid-1800s, it’s about a whaling boat crew on an expedition to hunting waters in the Arctic Circle. This is no “romance of the sea” kind of story; rather, it paints what is likely a realistic picture, right down to the tiniest details, of life at this time and under these conditions (yes, it’s pretty horrific). However, the writing is stellar and the characters are unforgettable. Henry Drax, the antagonist, is pure evil while Patrick Sumner, a less than ideal example of humanity, is the protagonist. Without going into details, a shocking crime (actually, a series of crimes) is committed and Sumner has to decide what to do with the knowledge he has about it. It takes courage to read this book, but it is worth it. ::

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YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

L A ST P AG E LAST PAGE

By Anneke Feuermann

KEEPING IT PURE

JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

How does Ampersand Distilling Co. create a gin of such renowned purity? Using a natural spring on their Cowichan property, father-and-son team Stephen and Jeremy Schacht combine a soft white grain with organic and wild harvested botanicals. Then, in stills they handcrafted themselves, the magic happens. “We want to recreate that bright, pristine taste that is so well known for a classic gin,” says Jeremy. Alongside the gin is their Per Se Vodka, a spirit that epitomizes the distillery’s passion for purity by using 100 per cent organically grown B.C. wheat. The result: both spirits were voted audience favourites out of more than 100 products sampled at BC Distilled. Ampersand is just getting started. ::

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2016

We want you to meet the new FIAT family and invite you to visit us to learn about our great offers and deals at our new showroom at 740 Roderick Street. Don’t forget to tell them ‘Mamma’ sent you.

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