Conextual studies, Unit 1

“Fashions fade, style is eternal.’’

Unit 1: Contextual Studies for Fashion Retail

Effects of the War: The liberated woman

Designers to the‌ High Street

Festivals

Influence on Fashion from Working Women 1900’s-Present Day Social Media: Blogging & Instagram (21st Century)

Hippie Era

Culture

Iconic figures: Twiggy, Mary Quant, Jackie Kennedy, Marilyn Monroe, Kate Middleton

Time- going forward or back?

Click the link to see 100 Years of Fashion For Women

Timeline of Fashion

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4z90wlwYs8

Fashion for 1910-1920-1930 Fashion for 1900-1910 Wool and linen walking suits became increasingly Dresses became lengthened at the popular for day-to-day wear. Distorted designs back for the effect of a trail. The silhouette of the skirt/dress was kept slimwere featured in bodices and skirts and preferred at the hip with pleats. High neck styles fabrics were satin, taffeta, chiffon and lightweight were seen everywhere. Popular designs silks, with washable cottons to ease hot summers. consisted of tucks, hem ruffles, buttons ‘The automobile achieved status, so driving clothes were developed to protect against dust, including and laced detailing. the aptly named duster, a long, lightweight coat.

Hats were veiled to keep the complexion smudge free.’ (Vintagefashionguild.org, 2016)

Fashion for the 1940’s Due to shortage of fabric in the 40’s, women wore dresses to the knee with broad square shoulders through the influence of military styling. Designs tended to be plain because of the economic situations. Some women would sew clothing from feed and flour sacks because more common fabrics were not available for civilian uses.

An important factor to the women of the 40’s was their underwear.

Women would wear a petticoat which helped conceal a corset known as a ‘waspie’ which helped to define the waistline.

Tiny waists and high bust lines were the style of the day,which is why underwear was so important as they needed body structure. The purpose of clothing was anything bar comfort.

Shaping Fashion from the 1900’s Fashion in the 1900’s went through a major development and was referred to as ‘the new century, at the height of the Belle Epoch ( beautiful era) was bowing to simplicity and to common sense […].

This trend of simplicity was enormously intensified and sped up by the The Great War, which clearly established two great principles in women’s dress — freedom and convenience. (Glamourdaze.com, 2016) Elite women – with the help of a maid – would force themselves into restrictive boned corsets, which pulled waists. The look of class and femininity.

Key accessories: -Hat’s -Petticoats -Corsets -Heeled Ankle Boots (daytime) -Stiletto (Night Time)

‘By 1910, gowns were increasingly becoming influenced by the works of Paul Poiret, whose eastern influenced satin and silk gowns were a favourite choice for the elite.’ (Glamourdaze.com, 2016) The lady above is seen in a classic black staple dress. Underneath she would have a corset to push the upper body forward and throw the hips back. This outfit would have been suitable of an evening.

Timeline of Fashion

Shaping Fashion with War from the 1900’s

Timeline of Fashion

‘The outbreak of The First World War in 1914 did not stop the usual Paris collections from going on display to large international attendance.’ (Glamourdaze.com, 2016) As the war surrounded everyday life, it overtook fashion & this is where the military coat was born. The military coat and outwear boots has also became a staple piece in today’s fashion, giving women a masculine edge.

One of the biggest evolvements driven by military fashion was the mix of up social classes. Upper, lower and middle class were diversified like never before. From this meant a liberty and freedom for women through dress.

As displayed by the women to the right clothing became ‘sensible with tailored jackets – even trench-coats and breeches cutting a particularly feminine shape on women who served the war effort.’

(Glamourdaze.com, 2016) British women joined the Voluntary Aid Detachment and Queen Alexandra’s Royal Army Nursing Corps.

Working Ladies in the 1940s ‘Rosie’s to Nurses’ ‘Despite equal work to men women never received equal pay.’ (VintageDancer.com, 2014) With men being taken off to fight in the war in 1942 , women were encouraged to start work in the most un-glamorous of places such as offices and factories ‘most notably in munitions factories contributing to the war effort.’ (VintageDancer.com, 2014)

Key Pieces for the 1900’s working woman: ‘1942 working woman- overalls, knit shirt, turban hat’ (VintageDancer.com, 2014)

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Trousers became widely popular for all occasions. Sales of women’s slacks in 1942 were 500% higher than they were in previous year.

The new positions required new ladies work-wear clothing designed for women’s bodies. Factory workers made use of overalls and sturdy separates, nurses made uniforms to spec, and office workers dressed in Victory suits. 1940s women’s work wear became part of a her wartime wardrobe but also adopted them into her everyday life after the war too. ‘Clothing would be radically different today if it were not for women at work in the 1940s.’ (VintageDancer.com, 2014) ‘Victory’ Red lipstick became extremely popular with the women of the 40’s which not only was a sign of strength for the country but for the liberation and freedom of women.

The end of World War II did not change the fashion industry that quickly. Clothing rations and fabric restrictions endured some time after as the economy changed slowly from a war economy toward peace. Women took this into their fashion and thought of new ways to look stylish without breaking the bank. For example, women would paint their legs with eyebrow pencil to have the illusion of stockings. Money was low and fabric was too.

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Timeline of Fashion

Roc’ N Roll Fashion of the 50’s Fashion in the 50’s was leant to the youth of the era. With parents wages increasing because of the economies change they could now afford to give their teenagers generous amounts of money which was spent mostly on their unique taste of fashion.

Music and cinema took the youth of the world by storm as they ‘clambered to copy the style of the stars’. (wiliam, 2016) The fashion of teens rapidly flew into an industry of its own. The era showed a transition from the formality and restraint of earlier years. The new craze was all about the loosened, free and more informal styles.

The decade (as shown in the images to the left) became much more acceptable for males to dress to impress. Mixing the male and female gender by becoming more fashion conscious.

Timeline of Fashion

Roc’ N Roll Fashion for men in the 50’s James Dean Marlin Brando

Cinema, Music & Young Men's Fashion The arrival of a different type of film and T.V programmes in American ‘brought many new fashion ideas to the masses’ (wiliam, 2016) . Having male celebrity figures such as Marlin Brando and James Dean prompted many young people to copy the fashion of their favourite stars.

Loose denim jeans with a white t-shirt became the symbolic representation of teenage rebellion for young men all round the world- especially in the U.S. However, this look wasn’t for all young men. The latter part of the 50’s seen more tailored, British-influenced Teddy Boy style of dress which slipped into the sophisticated heritage category. Clothing as such consisted of high-waisted, narrow 'drain pipe' trousers, long jackets, slim ties and large, shiny pointed shoes called 'winklepickers'(wiliam, 2016) .

Another iconic figure of the era was Mr Elvis Presley. His style ‘struck a chord with the teen market. Youth everywhere began sporting his slicked back 'duck tail' hair style and long sideburns.’ (wiliam, 2016) Men in the era began to experiment with brighter colours as well as flashy suits which were on trend. For comfort, men would wear loose, unbuttoned shirts with upturned collars which gave a rebellion look but was fresh and enticing.

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http://media.gettyimages.com/photos/marlon-brandosmoking-a-cigarette-during-the-filming-of-the-men-pictureid480013829

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Timeline of Fashion

Fashion of the 70’s ‘A decade of freedom of expression and exploration. The fashion of the day reflected the changes taking place across the country.’ (Ehow.co.uk, 2016)

Politics: Attitudes about peace and equality were widley focussed on in the early 70’s, and like the 50’s this was majorly projected by the youth of the generation. The strong sense of wanting peace was driven through the traumatic events of the Vietnam war. As a symbol of this it was known that men wore colours of green to represent growth and freshness, camouflage army jackets and trousers were also of popularity. The style even though loose and free was a subtle protest and reminder of the war.

Women were more radical than ever before. The nation went through a craze and burning their bras became a symbolisation of women’s liberation. Women went from wearing mini’s to men’s suits.

‘The peace-loving vibe resulted in more casual fashions. Men wore polyester leisure suits with open collars and no tie, even to work.’ (Ehow.co.uk, 2016)

Timeline of Fashion

Fashion of the 70’s

70’s STYLE MAXI

ASOS KIMINO SLEEVE MAXI DRESS S/S16

Music: Music of the '70s had a domino effect on the fashion of the day. Fans of folkl and psychedelic rock bands dressed in bell-bottomed jeans and casual shirts with bold patterns such as paisley and floral landscapes.

Women were introduced to the floaty, shapeless maxi dress- something completely off scale to times of the past. The maxi has stayed in today’s fashion ever since and has always been a favourite for designers Chloe and Versace. High Street retailers are forever making new versions of the gypsy type maxi especially around festival season.

In the latter part of the decade, music from the punks inspired the younger generation to style themselves in ripped clothing, black leather which stood for antiestablishment styles. If we take a look on clothing in the modern day we see hundreds of ripped knees in jeans, heavy black leather embellished jackets making the 70’s statement a record of achievement.

Hair: The 70’s was about the floaty long mermaid hairstyles dressed in flower garters as accessories- a must have for any summer festival trending from s/s16.

Timeline of Fashion

80’s Fashion

ALICE&OLIVIA BARDOT TOP FOR S/S16 £365

Music of the 80’s influenced the fashion of the era through the projection of pop and dance music became more popular than ever before.

Major artists such as Madonna & Boy George made their statements through bright exaggerated make-up, big hair and lashes. Their outrageous impressions put a stamp on the pop music of today and still continue to influence the fashions of today.

80’s

Women of the 80’s were seen in tight clothes, cold shoulder tops with back-combed hair and lashes. 2016 still promotes the cold-shoulder with almost every single designer and high street store selling them as their best sellers. Leading cosmetic eyelash extension specialists Eyelure and Eldora False Lashes has over 100 types of lashes which still sell outespecially when girls go on a night out. The big hair created in the 80’s will never be laid to rest.

‘Madonna […]the material girl of the 1980s.’

(Fashion in the 1980s, 2016)

RIVER ISLAND BARDOT TOP FOR S/S16 £25

Timeline of Fashion

80’s Fashion from TV & Film 80’s DYNASTY ‘Another huge influence of the 1980s were the television and movies. […] Cable television became more accessible in the 1980s and by the middle of the decade 70% of the American Population had a Cable Television ‘. (Fashion in the 1980s, 2016) One example of ow fashion was influenced from television was shows likes Dallas and Dynasty. With the women in Dynasty wearing shoulder pads this sent a craze around America and the UK especially as they were setting the trend for the youth of the era.

The legend of the ‘Flash Dance’ film had inspired many different trends like the ripped oversized sweatshirts with one exposed bare shoulder which created dramatic effect. In today’s fashion we still see similar aspects of this, Fashion in the 90’s states that MTV was another massive impact on the fashion trends of the 80’s: Although originally conceived as a promotional tool for the popular music industry, it quickly assumed a life of its own and was embraced by young Americans as a source of information on the latest trends in music, fashion, and opinion” (MTV & its influence). MTV started a new phenomenon of teens watching the television to know the latest fashion. The video component of MTV also changed fashion in the 1980s. “As a visual companion to rock 'n' roll, the video clips shown on MTV were frequently juvenile, vulgar, tasteless, and violent—which inevitably delighted teenage viewers and offended their parents” (MTV & its influence). These videos brought up a sense of rebellion of teenagers in the 1980s that can be seen throughout the fashion in the 1980s.

80’s SWEATSHIRT

MTV today at present still has similar qualities on the youth of today. Flash programmes such as ‘My Sweet Sixteenth’ and ‘Pimp My Ride’ shows the flashy side of teen life in America which shows the latest, more expensive fashions/trends and gives teenagers a dream to live from.

Timeline of Fashion

SHOULDER PADS ON THE NEW YORK FASHION SHOW 2015

ZARA A/W16 SWEATSHIRT

90’s baby xo 1: Kate Moss for Calvin KleinWhen the 90’s was born, along came the size 0 supermodel.

Moss a major development in the fashion and modelling industry changed fashion in the way that we know now as she was a celebration of an ‘extremely slim figure.’

(Vintagefashionguild.org, 2016) 2: Madonna’s cone bra- one of her most memorable features of Fashion created by Jean Paul Gaultier ‘for her Blond Ambition Tour in 1990’ (Vintagefashionguild.org, 2016)

3: Baywatch- ‘Pamela Anderson’s strategically cut one-piece was the bathing suit that launched the buxom blonde to mainstream fame.’(Vintagefashionguild.org, 2016) The blonde icon of the 90’s has still got an influence over todays audience. Miss-Guided’s summer 16 trend edit involved a modern twist on the famous red costume and was even modelled by Pamela herself.

Timeline of Fashion 4: The Fresh Prince- Trendsetting the 90’s with his colourful tracksuits for modern streetwear, Will Smith blazed all over the era with his sense of fashion.

5: The Rachel Haircut- ‘On the early seasons of Friends, […] character Rachel Green became famous for her layered, choppy haircut, created by stylist Chris McMillan. It remains one of the most iconic hairstyles of all times, and was the most requested celebrity cut of the ‘90’.’

(Vintagefashionguild.org, 2016)

6: Beverley Hills ‘Girls across America couldn’t wait to try out the looks they saw on the 90’s drama, which featured a group of stylish rich kids […] who were basically living the teen dream. From Brenda’s bangs and floral babydoll dresses to Donna’s scrunchies and eccentric ensembles, fans would tune in to find and copy the biggest trends.’

(Vintagefashionguild.org, 2016) Compared to the modern day versions of Beverley Hills, shows such as Keeping Up With The Kardashians, The Only Way is Essex and The housewives of Cheshire have the exact same effect on younger people of today’s generation. From shows like this clothing lines are produced so people can copy their styles- even to the extent were young teenagers in the UK are getting ‘essex smiles’.

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Task 1

Sophisticated Heritage &

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Ted Baker Menswear Ted Baker is a classic example of sophisticated heritage with a modern adaptation. Ted Baker takes the timeless classics of men's fashion and applies them to the modern man. With tailored fitted suits, matching ties & accessories the modern man has everything from back in the days of war with new splashes of colour. Ted’s Autumn 16 collection for men has a variety of trench coats, suit jackets, suit pants and brogues available in colours such as navy, purples, grey, burgundy and.

Ted Baker has taken the classic flat cap into consideration and paired it with tailor made suitsregurgitating fashions of men in war.

Brown and black leather satchels are a key piece to any business man who is on trend- again taking us back to the fashion staples of 1940’s.

Accessories such as watches are slim leather wrists with a large face for style.

The word ‘dapper’ comes to mind when looking at the sophisticated accessories to match the suit. Men no longer look for just the suit- it’s the right umbrella, scarf, gloves and hat. http://ichef1.bbci.co.uk/news/6 24/media/images/7 7694000/jpg/_7769 4553_samspade.jpg

Ted’s new adaptation on sophisticated heritage is mostly projected through accessories. During the war less accessories were worn compared to Edwardian times and things were ‘less luxurious so men stopped wearing as much jewellery’. (Fashion during World War 1, 2016)

One of the main links between past fashions of 1940 and the present day is the resistant trench coat. One source comments that ‘this revolutionized fashion both for men and for women, because it was a really useful piece of clothing that at the end became part of the military uniform.’ (Fashion during World War 1, 2016) As seen by Ted Baker’s recent collection jackets are somewhat loose. After the war, for comfort men developed from the ‘sand-clock silhouette’ (Fashion during World War 1, 2016) to a loosened jacket that ‘created a more squared shape to the body’. (Fashion during World War 1, 2016)

‘The season’s accessories of choice are slick and sharp’ (Tedbaker.com, 2016)

‘Perfectly proportioned to hold in your chest pocket, this compact accessory is a must for any dapper gent on-the-go.’

(Tedbaker.com, 2016)

‘Trimmed with a timeless grosgrain band and his signature metallic branding’(Tedbaker.com, 2016)

Task 1

Task 2

60’s Fashion

1960’s Timeline

Task 2 & 3

1960 Although the 60’s era is known for its experimentati on with fashion, the early 60’s consisted of no revolutionary fashions with architecture and sculpture being the main inspiration.

1961 The ‘costume look’ was very popular with hair, make up, shoes and hats all being an important part of fashion, however the dresses were mostly very simplistic.

1962 Fashion became more form fitting with emphasis around the chest, belts were almost always worn with dresses and icons such as Audrey Hepburn were very popular.

1963

1964

Artificial looks were abandoned and natural looks were fashionable with the use of subtle colours such as nudes and browns.

There was worldwide controversy over nudity as plunging necklines were introduced by paris spring collections.

Styles were very feminine.

By Joy McCabe

1965

1966

Mondrian and pop art styles were extremely popular, this is the year that YSL brought out his Mondrian cocktail dress collection.

A-line shapes were in style.

1967

London was the fashionable city rather than Paris for one of the first times and mod designers were taking advantage of the youth culture in England.

1968

Youth set the pace in fashion, with skirts higher than ever and major icons such as twiggy were massive inspiration.

1969 Women and men decided they no longer had to adhere to what designers where telling them to wear, but rather wear what they wanted, creating their own individual style.

Fashion towards the end of the 60’s became more figure flattering as people once again became body conscious after the years of shapeless garments.

1960’s Fashion ‘It’s almost like the 1950s bottled

Task 2 & 3

everyone up so much that the late 1960s exploded like an old pressure cooker.

Women were showing more skin than ever before’ - (Retrowaste.com, 2016)

‘

1960’s fashion was transformed by new ideas emerging from the London pop

scene. In Britain, musical taste and styles of dress were closely linked and it was the mod look which first popularised the simple geometric shapes typical of the 1960s. By the mid-sixties, the flared A-line was in style for dresses, skirts and coats. Slim fitting, brightly coloured garments were sold cheaply in boutiques all over 'Swinging London' and had tremendous influence throughout Europe and

’

the US - (Vam.ac.uk, 2016) As these article state, 60’s fashion was influenced by many factors such as pop music, youth culture, women being able to express themselves more freely and styles also taking inspiration from art. However this wave of fashion did not come through until the mid1960’s, Women being able to express themselves led to short skirts worn higher above the knee than ever. This led to women taking advantage of the extra leg room by wearing brightly coloured tights. High boots were also introduced as a fashionable way to cover up their legs. Bold, bright colours were fashionable as youth culture grew and so were A-line shapes to create a shapeless / boyish figure. These styles still remain with A-line mini skirts coming back into mainstream fashion today.

The rise of youth culture was created through pop music such as The Beatles and iconic figures

‘

such as twiggy. Fashion designers revolted against tradition in 1966. The thunder was first heard in England, where a youth rebellion resulted in massive profits for mod designers.

Although the flames of fashion rebellion sparked in London in 1965, it spread like wildfire

’

in1966 - (Retrowaste.com, 2016)

By Joy McCabe

Task 2 & 3

1960’s Fashion

By Joy McCabe

Mondrian Dress 1965

‘While mining one another’s inspirations is now par for the

course in the fashion and contemporary art worlds, Saint Laurent was among the first to tap the gallery for the runway.

Sending out clothing inspired by Andy Warhol, Van Gogh and Georges Braque in the ’60s and ’70s, his 1965 Mondrian collection is the most enduring collaboration: containing six shift dresses in homage to Piet Mondrian, the colourful designs punctuated the modernist spirit of an entire generation -(Dazed, 2015)

.’

Overall I think that a typical 1960’s style could be summed up by one iconic dress in particular. The Mondrian dress was designed by Yves Saint Laurent in 1965 as part of his collection which consisted of 6 cocktail dresses inspired by the Dutch Abstract Impressionist, Piet Mondrian.

This style of design is iconic to the 60’s with its primary colour blocks and A-Line shape. Although the design looks simplistic, YSL

‘also

demonstrated a feat of dressmaking, setting in each block of jersey, piecing in order to create the semblance of the Mondrian order and to accommodate the body imperceptibly by hiding all the shaping in the grid of seams.’(The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History, 2016)

This shows how even though the designs were created to add some fun and flair into 60’s fashion, designers still took this period in fashion seriously which could possibly be why this era stands out so much in fashion history. This can be shown through designers still using similar shapes and designs today (as shown through the garment from boohoo.com above) although the colour pallet may change the basic style still remains.

Task 2 & 3

Milestones in the 60’s relating to women Women’s Liberation Movement 1964: - Married Women's Property Act revision 25 March 1964: ‘[…] allowed women to be the legal owners of money they earned, and to inherit property.

Prior to this Act, everything a woman owned or earned became her husband's property when she married. […] The 1964 revision allowed married women to keep half of any savings they'd made from the allowance paid to them by their husbands. This gave women a little more financial independence, but also provided official recognition that many women were still dependent on their husbands for their income in the first place.’ (The British Library, 2016)

Equal Opportunity & Lots of Jobs became vacant 1968: ‘In 1968, 850 women machinists at the Ford factory in Dagenham went on strike over equal pay. They disputed the classification of their work as unskilled - a label which seemed to justify them being paid less than their male colleagues’. (The British Library, 2016)

By Paige Baker-Bailey

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Task 2 & 3

‘the decade of free love and flower power […]

Clothing wise, this decade was all about bright colours and bold patterns for both men and women’. (LoveToKnow, 2016) Twiggy’s fashion across the era are described as ‘brief, bare, and daring.

(LoveToKnow, 2016) Twiggy, an extremely successful model in the '60s, was a trendsetter, a daring dresser, and an icon in her own right. Twiggy’s styles of a-line short shift dresses are some of the most bought outfits now especially in high street stores such as Zara.

60’s Fashion

ZARA A/W16

TWIGGY

Being known for her simplistic but beautifying looks Twiggy stunned the nation with her sleek bobbed hair cut, doll-like lashes and daring dark eye-makeup.

A trend that has been continued into present day.

‘The Mini’: Outstandingly shocking for the time, the mini was all over magazine covers and in almost every advertising campaign in the late 60’s. "The Chelsea Look"(LoveToKnow, 2016) designed by Mary Quant became exclusively popular as it was modelled by Twiggy, the icon.

‘The Shift Dress’: Quite often Twiggy displayed herself in a simple shift dress, ‘sometimes with a button placket in the front, and other times with an exaggerated collar (either a spread collar or a turtleneck style). Colours included baby pink, sunshine yellow, white, and red, along with variations on plaids, checks, and stripes. As a general rule, she didn't choose fussy styles, instead allowing her legs to take centre stage’. (LoveToKnow, 2016) ‘Braless Styles’: In this era Twiggy was part of the movement that embraced a more liberated fashion sense for women. Bras were replaced by camisoles. Twiggy definitely supported the "less is more" campaign.

‘Loafers and Boots’: Knee-high boots lengthened the legs, drawing attention to the mini. Whilst loafers added a touch of boyish style to everyday looks. Key colours where: brown leather, white patent leather and leather substitutes, colorful styles were a nod to more prismatic designs. ‘Matching bags were worn in funkier designs, but as a general rule, they were not used as a conventionally matching accessory as they had been in the past. Fringe was added to oversized bags in the late '60s as the hippie look was further popularized.’ (LoveToKnow, 2016)

By Paige Baker-Bailey

THE FACE OF ‘66

Task 2 & 3 ‘It

TWIGGY:‘THE FACE OF 66’ (LoveToKnow, 2016)

was the era of the girl group, the gamine supermodel’ (Marieclaire.co.uk, 2016)

Twiggy being one of the most followed icons of the fashion world in the 60’s meant that she globally changed the style of women all over.

‘Twiggy became the idol for millions of teenage girls of the sixties revolution’ (Twiggylawson.co.uk, 2016)

Twiggy’s doll like look with large eyes and extravagant lashes with short bobbed hair was created by the popular Mary Quant.

An attribute to the Fashion World‘In 1967 Twiggy made a promotional trip to New York. Whilst in Twiggy’s appealing look ‘truly changed the modelling world’ the US, Bert Stern made three documentaries about her visit (Marieclaire.co.uk, 2016) by introducing women to a different 'Twiggy In New York', 'Twiggy In Hollywood' and 'Twiggy, Why?' figure- one that was stylish but also boyish and straight. The 50’s for the ABC network. Legendary songwriters Leiber & Stoller even raved about Marilyn Monroe’s curves, whereas Twiggy calculated penned the theme song for the documentaries 'I'll Remember a huge change and being twig-thin was the new in.

You - Twiggy'. (Twiggylawson.co.uk, 2016) Twiggy’s petite frame and ‘lack of curves made waves throughout the fashion industry. Even 40 years later, many models strive to be as thin and waif-like as Twiggy’. (Marieclaire.co.uk, 2016) Twiggy's instant celebrity status brought enduring changes to the modelling and fashion industry. By allowed her name to be used on a line of clothing, accessories, cosmetics and even dolls, she became a global business; which- for a model at the time, was revolutionary.

Her impact in the era didn't stop there. Twiggy charged an outstanding hourly rate of around $240. In the 50s, top models such as Suzy Parker made about $40 an hour. By the late 1990s up to present day, top models receive millions in a single year.

By Paige Baker-Bailey

The Influence of Fashion from the 60’s today

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Leading online high street store Asos is just one example of how the 60’s colour block mini is still popular in today’s modern fashions. Paired with simple tops and platform heeled sandals Twiggy’s invention of the mini has gone more than a long way.

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Task 2 & 3

One of Twiggy’s ultimate fashion concepts was the ribbed turtle neck knit with an exaggerated collar, paired with a plain mini and plain hair. The image to the right of off Asos’ ‘Best seller’ Trend article from Autumn 16.

Showing that fashion from the 60’s has became a timeless classic collection for everyday wear. Asos have paired the outfit with a black heeled boot and left the legs bare- a trend that was popular in the 60’s.

Style wasn’t just (and still isn’t) about clothing. Hair, make-up and minimal accessories were everything about Twiggy and that effect has carried on to current trends. Twiggy’s doll faced ‘lashy look’ is still as popular as ever with current trends.

Queen B posted the picture of her new pixie cut and everyone raved about it.

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Floppy hats have been a timeless classic back from the 60’s and have stayed strong in our high street and catwalks ever since. These types of looks created from the 60’s gave women a different type of personality and a way of dressing themselves of how they wanted.

By Paige Baker-Bailey

Task 2 & 3

It's hard to discribe a distinct Winklepickers (also known as shoe look for the winkle pickers) were sharp 60’s. Conservative women stuck shoes, quite literally, with a with the stiletto but slip on shoes pointed toe. Winkle pickers with clunky heels were also were popular mainstream popular to wear with pants. Of fashion for young men in the course, there were boots to go early 60s. The pointed toe along with the mini skirt. First was also fashionable for they were loose plastic or plain young ladies' shoes, which were also known as winkle leather but eventfully they pickers . morphed into clinging treated (Vintagefashionguild.org, textiles. Go-go boots were the 2016) must have and came in every different height imaginable.

By Izabelle

Task 2 & 3

Influence from 60s today SHOES

It's hard to discribe a distinct shoe look for the 60’s. Conservative women stuck with the stiletto but slip on shoes with clunky heels were also popular to wear with pants. Of course, there were boots to go along with the mini skirt. First they were loose plastic or plain leather but eventfully they morphed into clinging treated textiles. Go-go boots were the must have and came in every different height imaginable.

Winklepickers (also known as winkle pickers) were sharp shoes, quite literally, with a pointed toe. Winkle pickers were popular mainstream fashion for young men in the early 60s. The pointed toe was also fashionable for young ladies' shoes, which were also known as winkle pickers .

(Vintagefashionguild.org, 2016)

The swinging 60s were the Golden Age of freedoms, with so much happening in music, politics, society, morals .

Young people refused to be/look/act/think as their parents did. Young let the old.

We can still see it all in todays fashion . Leading designers like Micheal Kors , Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs in their collection in 2013 brought us back to the fresh , young colourful fashion trends from 60s: -A-line dresses -Kitten heels -Pointed toes.

Which we can find in leading high street shops like Asos, New Look , Top Shop .

One of the main shoe styles is the Chelsea boots (wet look) which was brought to us by Mary Quant .

Another style also brought by Mary is the A line shaped skirt which just recently arrived in high street shops like River Island .

B ig fashion trends for men are: Denim shirt, Winklepickers boots , and which I personally think main one is theTrench Coat designed by Lord John. Now found in a big fashion houses like Burberry .

Looking at the whole 60s we can see how dramatically fashion been changing just during those 10 years , and how it was sheped by historical events.

By Izabelle

Task 4

Pretty in Pastel Be the quest of all guests‌

Task 3

Task 4

P retty in P astel Be the quest of all guests…

Floral Jacket £35 Floral Skirt £35

THE CO-ORD Suit Trouser £35 Suit Jacket £35 White crop £24

Soft button earrings £15

High neck midi dress £38

Ted Baker Enamel Earrings £25 Pretty Occasion Fascination £15

Skinnydip Clutch £18 HELLO heeled sandal £40

Mint peplum midi dress £38

Pretty Stone stud earrings £9

Delicate rose gold ring pack £18

Nude Clutch £35

Light Pink Playtime Courts £25

Nude Laced barely there sandals £25

Blush Fascinator £22

Bardot light blue dress with flared arm £35

Task 4

‘Pretty in Pastel’-This collection is aimed towards feminine young women between the ages of 20-30 who have a petite dress size between size 4-10. I chose this particular category as the petite section in the high street is quite limited. The collection is aimed towards wedding guests of S/S16. The concept behind my mood board is a feeling of fresh, feminine boldness which is why I used images of the Miss Dior Blooming Beautiful perfume as this fragrance has an aroma of summer vibes and relates to all things pretty and light.

The idea was to create something simplistic but stunning and would look appropriate from day to night. I found that co-ords were the right way to achieve this type of style. The slim tailored trouser looks clean, fresh and sharp and is easily paired with neutral tops with court shoes or heeled sandals . In particular, I believe the light blue suit would be popular as this would be comfortable and classy for all day wear. These pieces can also be mixed in with different outfits and worn for different types of occasions. For example, as weddings are usually popular in the summer time and ladies like to wear different things, the pastel coloured trouser is easily paired with any colour shoe- maybe a fun shoe to add edge to the outfit and paired with a clean cut blouse and over-sized sunnies.

Colour: The reason I wanted to take pastel colours was the appealing softness which fit in nicely with the idea of a summers wedding. The fluffiness of light pink roses and the cute lovebirds enhanced this perception on my mood board by indicating an elegant, feminine driven concept of petite fashion. Twiggy’s ‘brief and bare’ slim frame of the 60’s caught the eye of the nation for her elegant touch on feminine fashion for the petite sized lady which was what I wanted to stand out mostly on my mood board. I wanted the effect of ‘less is more’ yet simply beautiful.

Accessories: The type and colour of heels I chose were to suit in nicely with the idea of soft fashion for a more sophisticated look. Nude and blushed court shoes are a staple piece to any wedding guest attire.

Also, with choosing neutral coloured shoes it makes the outfit stand out more quite pleasantly. Clutches are easily paired or even contrasted next to nude shoes.

I went for medium sized fascinators rather than over-sized fascinators as ‘less is more’ tends to be more popular at weddings than it ever has been.

Task 5

‘[…]the authority on fashion & the goto retailer for the latest trends’ (Bing.com, 2016) 2.

1.

Product on high street: ‘Contemporary Embroidered Souvenir Jacket,£30.00. Shell: 100% nylon, Lining: 100% polyester, Hand wash cold’. (Forever 21, 2016)

Product on high street: ‘A woven faux suede T-shirt dress featuring a mini length, a round neckline, short sleeves, and a boxy silhouette, £13. 94% polyester, 6% spandex, Hand wash cold’ (Forever 21, 2016)

Era influence: 1990’s Links/relationship between product and era developments: The 90’s were crowded with teenagers in bomber jackets especially in the colour khaki. Today the youth of the UK are all spotted in waist length bomber jackets- both girls and boys. The bomber jacket with its edgy feel could even be considered as a nongendered piece. Forever 21’s styling in particular looks like it has a grunge effect with the stamp like badges attached.

Era influence: 1950’s-60’s

3.

Links/relationship between product and era developments: The 60’s borne the mini dress as the 50’s introduced the biker jacket. Here Forever 21 has brought out an up-to-date grunge version of the mini dress by creating a faux suede fabric which is affordable and fashionable right now. The dress is only £13 and available in three colours making fashion quick and easy to stay up-to-date.

Product on High Street: Classic Utility Jacket, £23.00, - Shell: 100% cotton, Lining: 100% polyester, Machine wash cold Era Influence: 1940’s Links/Relationships between product and era developments: Effects of fashion from the War brought the military coat to life. High street stores today are always bringing out new versions of the style. Forever 21 have kept it classic by keeping the zipped pockets with the hood in a khaki colour but also have it available in olive. Similar to before the price is kept low with different colours available for fast fashion.

4.

Product on High Street: Contemporary High-Waist Pants, £16.00, 100% rayon, Hand wash cold Era Influence: 1960’s Links/Relationships between product and era developments: The 60’s introduced the tailored/ slim-fit trouser for women which is popular in today’s fashion for all types of events: work wear, party clothing, daily clothing. The colour khaki seems to be a favourite for this months trends from Forever 21 bringing the concept of grunge in to a more modern look on military clothing.

Task 5

Product on high street: ‘Peace + Love Satin Wrap Playsuit Chartreuse £45, Approx length 78cm/30.5" 100% Polyester, Machine Washable’ (Missguided.co.uk, 2016)

1.

Era influence: 1970’s

2.

Product on high street: ‘Peace + Love Side Split Shorts £22, Metallic Bandeau £15, Plunge Collar Belted Jacket £30.00 95% Polyester 5% Elastane, Machine Washable.’

(Missguided.co.uk, 2016)

Links/relationship between product and era developments: The 70’s was all about freedom of dress and bright colours. This luxe Peace & Love satin playsuit from the A/W16 collection takes a completely different spin on fashion from the 70’s but still has similar elements. Even though it’s a shorter outfit than what the 70’s era was use to, the playsuit has the long baggy sleeved shirt effect, paired with a gold chunky chocker. The colour is as vibrant as the 70’s era and gives a fresh look on this type of shirt look style.

3.

Era influence: 1990’s Links/relationship between product and era developments: The 90’s was extremely popular for pop music, hot pants & showing as much stomach as you could. The era of then size 0 supermodel was born and the racier the dress sense, the more you fitted into the style of the time. This metallic bandeau from miss-guided paired with hot-pants from the A/W16 collection would suit straight in to the era of the 90’s. The modern look on the outfit would be the waistcoat added over the outfit for slight coverage.

Product on high street: Peace + Love Fringe Midi Dress Black , £55.00, Approx length 119cm/47“, hand-wash only.’

(Missguided.co.uk, 2016)

Era influence: 1920’s Links/relationship between product and era developments: The 1920’s introduced society to ‘The Flapper Girl’ which meant young women were becoming rebellious in their sense of dress due to Word War 1 and men being away from home. The flapper dress was a fringed (majority black) material which fell at the knee and was considered to be daring at the time. Here Miss Guided have re-created the flapper girl effect and described the look as ‘premium underlay in a figure flattering fit, super sexy plunging neckline and open back style.’ (Missguided.co.uk, 2016)

4.

Product on high street: Bandage Cross Over Swimsuit Pink, £30.00 Approx length 69cm/26.5“, mixed fibres, hand-wash only (Missguided.co.uk, 2016)

Era influence: 1990’s Links/relationship between product and era developments: Pamela Anderson was famous in the 90’s for her appearance on Baywatch and flaunting her fabulous figure in the racy red cut-piece swimsuit.

Being an iconic image for women ever since, MissGuided’s light pink version of the original red costume is just one example of a replica.

Task 5

http://www.asos.com/women/ctas/fashiononline-1/cat/?cid=13489&via=top

1.

Current A/W16 trends from leaving online high-street store, Asos have brought in the 90’s hoodie into their current fashions for the latest look. Main key features in their current edit o AW16 HOTLIST include: velvet fabrics, bomber jackets, slipper shoes & statement earrings.

Product on high street: ‘ABOUT ME: Premium Biker Jacket With Floral Embroidery, £200.00 Embroidery: 100% Polyester, Lining: 100% Polyester, Outer: 100% Real Leather.’ (ASOS, 2016)

2 .

Era influence: 1940’s, 1960’s & 1970’s

Era influence: 1950’s

Links/relationship between product and era developments: Taking influence from the pleated midiskirt from the 40’s New Look have added a modern day twist by incorporating colours used in the 60’s; along with a fitted turtle neck top which Twiggy was fond of in the era of the 60’s. Paired with black platform clogs this outfit races from the 40’s to the 70’s and straight into modern culture.

Links/relationship between product and era developments: The Roc’ N Roll era of the 50’s introduced us to the heavy biker jacket. 70 years later and here is a modern twist on the traditional biker jacket for distinct styling. The jacket is still paired with lose fitted ‘Mom’ Jeans and worn with a slim-fitted tshirt, just like James Dean modelled in the 50’s.

3.

Product on high street: ‘ABOUT ME: Jacquard Wide Leg Trousers with Side Stripe, £38.00 Main: 50% Cotton, 48% Polyester, 2% Elastane. (ASOS, 2016)’ Era influence: 1970’s Links/relationship between product and era developments: With the first man landing on the moon in 1969 futuristic fashions were everywhere to be seen during the 70’s- including metallic fashion. The wide leg trouser and crop top with big hooped earrings were the ultimate outfit of the time.

Here you can see Asos’ A/W16 has taken a development with this look by using contrasting colours of coral and black. However, the Asos collection has used elements of the 70’s fashion with the high waist line and long wide legs with the flared crop top showing the stomach & paired with high block heels for dramatic effect.

Product on high street: ‘ABOUT ME: New Look Pleated Snake Colour Block Midi Skirt, £29.99 Lining: 100% Polyester, Main: 100% Polyester. (ASOS, 2016)

4.

Product on high street: ‘ABOUT ME: Office Monty Buckle Fringe Metallic Mid Heeled Loafers £60.00 Lining: 100% Polyurethane, Sole: 100% Other Materials, Upper: 100% Polyurethane. (ASOS, 2016) Era influence: 1960’s Links/relationship between product and era developments: The mid-heel loafer was one of popularity back in the 60’s. Asos’ 16 collection has brought out the futuristic fabric combined with the 60’s specials to add effect and modernism. Loafers can be worn today with trousers, jeans and mini skirts/dresses much similar to the styles flaunted around back in the 60’s by trendsetting model- Twiggy.

Task 5

1.

Product: ‘Embroidered Gaza gown, £ 7,240, 100% silk.

(Gucci.com, 2016) ’ Era influence:1900’s

2.

Product: Embroidered wool dress, £ 2,370, Base: 93% wool and 7% elastane, detail: 100% wool, (Gucci.com, 2016) Era influence:1900’s & 1960’s

Links/relationship between product and era developments: Gucci’s floor length gown has taken time straight back to the 1900’s from the quilted overlay, ruffled layers at the bottom hem and sleeves with a more structured shape. The modernism on the gown is found in the colour- ‘green gazer with black ribbon detail on the waist […] Embroidered appliqué with crystals, glass pearls and velvet details over organza for a quilted effect along the neckline’ (Gucci.com, 2016) For the women of the early 1900’s floor length gowns with tucked in waistlines was the norm.

Links/relationship between product and era developments: ‘The handmade embroidery is romanticized by the ruffled sleeves and really speaks to the Renaissance theme seen throughout this runway collection’. (Gucci.com, 2016) The theme of the Renaissance really flatters the ruffled look of the early 1900’s paired with the green fine wool A-line dress which makes reference to the style of the 60’s. This outfit is key for designer lovers as it is bespoke, fresh and classic.

6.

3.

4.

Products: ‘Metallic jacquard jacket £2,210, 39% acrylic, 38% wool, 9% polyester, 8% silk and 6% nylon Felt hat with veil- £270, Ring with hand and arrow motif-£225’ (Gucci.com, 2016) Era influence:1920’s-1980’s

5.

Links/relationship between product and era developments: Statement clothing: Shoulder Pads & Defying Rings. ‘Renaissance inspired coat in metallic jacquard with mink fur details own the soldiers and exaggerated puff sleeves’ (Gucci.com, 2016) Fashion has developed in the sense that the 80’s shoulder pads have became even boxier with puffed sleeves. Statement clothing comes to mind with the accessories of defying rings & veiled hats as part of everyday wear for the Gucci collection.

Product: ‘Wool silk contrast jacket £ 1,470 & trouser £ 1,470, 51% wool and 49% silk (Gucci.com, 2016).

Era influence: 1920’s-1970’s Links/relationship between product and era developments: Gucci has describe the two piece suit from the A/W16 runway as ‘Menswear style, oversize fit’ (Gucci.com, 2016). Meaning they have taken the 70’s oversized suit and brought it back to the working woman of today. Paired with a veiled hat which was seen on every flapper girl in the 20’s, Gucci have made a feminine statement on women who wear suits. Also paired with a classic black stiletto heel the outfit is contemporary yet classic. The suit also has a military vibe with the clean cuttings of the collar on the suit jacket, detailed with front buttoning.

Task 5

Product: ‘DUSTER WORKER JACKET £245 Composition - 70% Wool 30% Polyester Wash care - Dry Clean, OBSERVE ROLLNECK JUMPER £85, CHECKED TAILORED TROUSERS £125, LEATHER CHELSEA BOOTS £195’ (Reiss, 2016) Era influence:1950’s Links/relationship between product and era developments: The 50’s- especially in the UK introduced the Teddy Boy. Reiss’ AW16 collection still to this day advertises this type of look as fashionable and workwear appropriate for the modern day office worker. The roll neck is still highly popular for both work-wear & occasion wear paired with slim trousers, a heavy jacket and clean cut Chelsea boots.

Product: ‘STUD LEATHER BIKER JACKET £595: Composition 100% Lamb Leather, Lining Composition - 100% Viscose, Washcare- Specialist Leather Clean, WOOL TAILORED TROUSERS £115, LEATHER CHELSEA BOOTS £195 (Reiss, 2016) Era influence:1950’s Links/relationship between product and era developments: Similar to the first image, Reiss has taken influence from the 50’s man. However, this time with the edgy black leather jacket, the dominating coloured black trousers with black boots and a black beanie, this image takes on the role of the ‘bad boy’ look from the 50’s. The era of roc’ n roll seems to be as popular as ever. Again, in the modern era men could wear this for all sorts of occasions including work and social events.

Task 6

AMERICAN

Catwalk Trends Zac Posen S/S 17

Chanel S/S 17

PASTEL

SWING

Zac Posen S/S 17

Task 6

Catwalk Trends COLOUR. COLOUR.

Sun Jung Wan S/S17

VIVEIAN TAM S/S17 Joseph Alluzarra S/S17

POP

LELA ROSE S/S17

8Os Inspired Trends to day seven of New York Fashion Week’ for S/S17‘A bright and colourful start (Harper's BAZAAR, 2016) Couture Shay S/S17

Tory Burch S/S17

Tory Burch S/S17

Evaluation

Task 6

Catwalk Trend 1, 1950’s Era Influence: For my first catwalk trend I searched through WGSN and looked through the Future Trends of S/S 17. Designers such as Chanel and Zac Posen were fond of ‘the belted dress’ and ‘the full skirt dress’. WGSN described these as ‘neat belted dresses’ which will make a return from the 50’s in Pre-Summer. By placing emphasis on the waist and outlining the female figure it was clear that this classic summer shape ‘neatly nipped at the waist with a 1950’s sensibility.’

When I had discovered this type of trend I felt like I had a reminder of Greece the musical, American diners and roc’ n roll music of the 50’s.

To create this concept I added pastel coloured fabrics and pallets to my concept board in order to stress the colours and textures of the piece. I wanted the board to have a youthful and fun element- in order to relate back to the 50’s which is why I composited the pictures out of order so they didn’t look too co-ordinated and planned.

Catwalk Trend 2, 1980’s Era Influence:

‘’ ‘’ In the 80’s ‘Belts and bracelets were the most vital accessories in the wardrobe’ (Retrowaste.com, 2016). With this information when looking through WGSN to capture my chosen designers/outfits I looked specifically for these types of accessories to bring the idea of the 80’s into my mood board. The 80’s era is a representation of sharp colours, pop music, dancing, and all about the youth of the time. This is why when collecting images from both google and WGSN I wanted the right type of colour pallet- (bright oranges/reds/yellows) to project the feeling of fun, young and modern.

Designers such as Joseph Alluzarra, VIVEIAN TAM, Lela Rose and Sun Jung Wan had an array of Bardot style dresses/tops with masses of vibrant colours splashed all over their desgins which takes the eye back to the days of Madonna and Boy George.

Fabrics tended to be ribbed and light on the body- mostly tight fitting.

‘’ ‘’

Task 6

High Street Trends: Topshop A/W16

Task 6

High Street Trends: River Island Fall 17

Historical Artefact

Task 7

STYLE ROMA

Roman

Grand designs Ancient Rome GRECIAN

Task 7

Deconstructing Historical ArtefactAncient Roman Mosaics

To begin this task I began by researching ‘Roman Artefacts’. When searching through I found the Ancient Roman mosaics were captivating and a huge influence on the Roman culture from the Gods of Ancient Rome right through to present day.

MYTHOLOGY INSPIRED MOSAIC

GLAIATOR FIGHTING INSPIRED MOSAIC

The Romans were creative with their sense of interior and would hang mosaics around churches, bathhouses and in their homes. The Vatican City- a place of worship and grandness has many detailed, thick fabric mosaics hanging from the ceilings . Religious imagery is the main symbolism drives behind the mosaics. They stand for a symbol of power and a representation of Rome as a whole.

There is a pattern of colours in most mosaics such as golds, browns, oranges and beige. When searching through fashion trends which are relatable to the historical artefact of mosaics I wanted to stick to this colour scheme in order to keep the traditional colours coming through and also interlink fashion with the mosaics.

‘How were Mosaics made?: First the mosaic maker and the owner of the house had to agree on a design […] there are many types of design, such as geometric patterns, animals and plants, scenes from mythology such as gods and strange creatures, and scenes from real life such as farming and gladiator fights.

The tesserae had to be made by cutting up the stone. The following materials were usually used: Yellow - limestone and sandstone Red and brown - ironstone Blue and black - slate White – chalk (Timetrips.co.uk, 2016)

GEOMETRIC PATTERN INSPIRED MOSAIC

Task 7 As part of my research I discovered that the Romans were and are still known for ransacking ‘the world for striking colours’. Mosaics were described as having ‘a jewel like effect.’

(Furniturestyles.net, 2016)

1)

Alice and Olivia S.S17

2)

When researching mosaics I found that one of the most popular forms was the art of geometric prints;. Although the patterns seem full they are pleasant on the eye with the strict colour schemes.

I found that in high-end modern fashion this type of approach developed from art is incorporated into softer designs which is elegant and sleek. The images highlighted as image 1 & 2 have been collected from the Alice & Olivia S/S17 collection which were promoted at New York Fashion Week 2016.

The element of mosaic art comes through the dresses through geometric style prints. The upper half and hem of the dresses hold enough detail to show the influence of ancient roman mosaics.

The specific season for this type of outfit is summer- more like wedding and special occasion events.

The look of the Greek goddess is elegant, classic and timeless. Art and design of the dresses relate back to the luxurious designs created by the Ancient Romans of hundreds and hundreds of years ago as they were known for their love of ravishing colours.

Task 8 Chinese Characters: ‘[…] rich in symbolism and many have stories behind them. Chinese characters are especially beautiful when “penned” with a brush in the traditional way’ (ChinaHighlights, 2016)

Chinese Culture

Chinese Gardens: ‘an area harmoniously mixing man-made landscape with natural scenery, architecture, painting, calligraphy and horticulture’ (ChinaHighlights, 2016) Chinese Food’ :"The 5 Flavors" — a TCM Principle Tastes of Chinese food are traditionally categorized into five flavors: salty, spicy, sour, sweet, and bitter.

Chinese emphasize he harmony of five flavors.

According to traditional Chinese medicine, the harmony of the five flavors can not only improve taste enjoyment, but also have the function of achieving balance to promote health, as well as treating diseases and aiding recovery from injury.’

(ChinaHighlights, 2016) Chinese Dragon: ‘Chinese dragons are symbolic of being lucky, propitious, powerful, and noble’ (ChinaHighlights, 2016) Chinese Art: ‘The central theme of nature, harmony and the elements has grown and developed with the culture of the country.

Chinese history shows that the swirling brush strokes depicting rivers, rocks, plant life and animals retained a similarity that dates back to the original cave drawings’. (ChinaHighlights, 2016)

Task 8 Chinese Inspired Mood Board

Task 8 Secondary Research for Chinese Fashion and Culture Han

Dragon Robe

Fu

‘Although the fashion trend changes over time, there are several types that are popular till today both at home and abroad.

Traditional Han Chinese Clothing (Han Fu): […] is usually in the form of long gown, cross collar, wrapping the right lapel over the left, loose wide sleeves and no buttons but a sash. Although simple in design, it gives different feelings to different wearers.

Cheongsam (Qi Pao): Originated from the Manchu female clothes, it evolved by merging with western patterns that show off the beauty of a female body. Its features are straight collar, strain on the waist, coiled buttons and slits on both sides of the dress. Materials used are usually silk, cotton and linen.

Cheongsam is the most popular Chinese attire in the world today.’

(Travelchinaguide.com, 2016)

‘Dragon Robe: It is so named because of the embroidered dragons on it.

It can only be worn by the emperor, who was considered a dragon from heaven in the ancient times. Other characteristics of a dragon robe are round collar, buttons on the right and most of the time in bright yellow.’ http://www.chinesetimesc hool.com/Portals/2/cms/i mages/201306/635079655 797350000.jpeg

Cheongsam

http://modernqipao.com/wpcontent/uploads/2014/03/20/Twopieces-mandarin-collarcheongsam-floor-length-Chinesered-brocade-wedding-bridal-dress006.jpg

‘Traditional Wedding Costumes: Chinese traditional wedding costumes vary in different dynasties and time periods.

However, they are red most of the time as red is considered lucky, happy and auspicious in the country’s culture. The most well-known are red chaplet and official robes, which are still widely worn today by newly wed in traditional style wedding ceremonies or for taking wedding photos.’

(Travelchinaguide.com, 2016)

https://s-media-cacheak0.pinimg.com/236x/03/d4/a9/03d4a9f89 943df37505d5b5cb2c0e057.jpg

http://www.dhresource.com/albu_ 361100281_00-1.0x0/vintagechinese-red-traditional-weddingdress.jpg

Task 8 Culture Shown in Retail The oriental style kimono effect to the left are images of River Island’s S/S15 collection. The use of silk with bright, florescent colours achieves the oriental influence with it’s light and silky texture and powerful imagery. Chinese culture is known for it’s bright colours and scenes of tranquillity from the landscape gardens.

This print and design shows this with the peaceful setting of birds and flowers which re-invents classic Chinese culture styles.

Colours are a little more modern China compared to Ancient China with the use of oranges/blues and white rather than the typical stand out red. However, the similar designs of the Han Fu are incorporated ‘Han Fu is usually in the form of long gown, cross collar, wrapping the right lapel over the left, loose wide sleeves and no buttons but a sash’. (Travelchinaguide.com, 2016) The culture of Chinese fashion is known for it’s floor length style. Although the collection does have two floor length styules, the kimono dress has been remodified by River Island by making it shorter on the leg. However, the fabric, design and texture is still similar to original Chinese styling.

EXTRA: The peep toe black heel to the right is also from River Island. However, these are taken from the A/W16 collection.

You can see how the oriental style pattern of the gold dragon has been incorporated into the shoe and gives the same effect from last years oriental silk collection. The satin material again shows influence from Chinese culture and fashion with the pattern of a Chinese dragon effect.

To the left is a original, popular Chinese fabric. This has very similar texture, pattern and colour to the garments from River Island. This is an example of how River Island have conveyed Chinese culture into fashion and made it contemporary.

Task 8 Cads to suit Chinese Inspired Fashion

I have chosen these cads as representatives of the styles I had in mind when thinking of Chinese culture. I wanted to achieve the successful Han Fu look which is a wrapped, loose sleeve kimono style.

The thick belts are true to Chinese fashion along with the loose wide-fitting trousers. Colours here would be oranges, reds and floral to represent the tranquil landscape gardens of China.

Key Influence Marked by

Task 8 Concept Board for Chinese Inspired Fashion

Garden of Oriental

Task 8 Evaluation

Garden of Oriental

‘Garden of Oriental’: This collection is inspired by the Chinese wrap kimono style with oriental patterns for a soft, tranquilizing effect. China is known for its secret escape landscape gardens that are all about relaxing, tranquilization and peace. I wanted to bring that effect over styles appropriate for Fall. I predominantly used a deep purple colour for a rich, luxurious approach on the style which would blend into trends for Fall 2016.

This type of collection would be for women aged 35+ in full time jobs.

The designs are put together with a evening out in mind. Something that is classy, yet modern and stylish. The kimono sleeve dress is a suitable shape for any size as it can hang loose and still look flattering through the tied waist.

I have specifically paid attention to the sleeves. For women aged 35+ it’s known that they prefer more of a cap sleeve or quarter length sleeve for more coverage. The length of the dresses are all knee length or just below the knee which seems appropriate for the age range addressed.

Styles such as these can be paired easily with plain black peep toes to keep the outfit simple and allow the dress to do all the talking.

Different lengths of hair will suit these dresses by being able to wear it both up or down- either would go nicely.

I feel that these designs would go well in a designer store such as Karen Miller or Ted Baker whose target customers are that of higher earners and tend to be working women who have a family as well.

African Culture

Task 8

‘Some cultures wear colourful attire, while others wear less colour but include shiny threads in their dressing with jewellery’. (Victoriafalls-guide.net, 2016)

Tribal: ‘Men from the Latuka tribe in Sudan still

practice the tradition of kidnapping a woman that they want to marry. After a Latuka man has taken his bride-to-be, he goes back to the father of the woman to ask for his blessing’. (Victoriafalls-guide.net, 2016)

Masks: ‘Masks are usually a

representation of religious and spiritual beliefs. They are used for traditional ceremonies to honour deities or ancestors’. (Victoriafallsguide.net, 2016)

Art: ‘[…] common themes found in art include women, couples, children, animals, men with a weapon, or a combinatio’. (Victoriafallsguide.net, 2016)

Music: ‘African music is as diverse as the

people, and has also been influenced by music from the western world. Traditional music in southern Africa usually involves drums and singing, and such instruments as the thumb piano accompanied by rattles made from some dried fruit or vegetable with seeds inside’. (Victoriafalls-guide.net, 2016)

Task 8 African Inspired Mood Board

Task 8

Marriage Festival in Northern-Africa

https://s-mediacacheak0.pinimg.com/7 36x/23/fc/30/23fc 3086e45889b3993 c435187aa01ce.jp g (Travel-exploration.com, 2016)

http://www.knotsandkiss es.co.uk/new/wpcontent/uploads/2016/07 /moroccan-weddinginspiration.jpg

Traditional & Ceremonial Costume

Task 8: African Fashion at London Fashion Week 2016 NEPC

This screenshot was taken from videos of the African inspired Fashion at LFW 2016.

Click the link below to see the different types of African fashion. One thing which stood out to me particularly was the background music of traditional African instruments such as drums and rattles; creating an African scene which embraces the culture of Africa. http://www.africafashionweeklondon.com/

McStell

The images collected to the left have been taken from shots of ‘Africa Fashion’ which took place at LFW16. These modern, contemporary styles have been highly influenced by traditional African culture, such as the marriage festival held in Morocco. Young brides-to-be dress in their finery to impress potential husbands. Colours and prints of their attire are bold, vibrant and loud, much like these styles that were on the catwalk recently. The influence driven is more than clear.

Soboye

Designer Honey Malaolu is known for her distinct African inspired designs. Her collection is said to have been inspired by Africa because of its ‘flamboyant, superbly eclectic and one-of-a-kind textiles’. (AFKInsider, 2015) The colours and styles to the left definitely showcase the electricity that is echoed around the tents at the Morrocan marriage festival. The warm, fun, energetic vibes of these runway styles are what embrace the African culture. Traditional African clothing is known for it’s wrap style, loose fitting garments with bright colours. All of the styles by various designers here to the left abide by this and make traditional African style clothing as modern and popular as ever.

Signature Secret http://www.africafashionweeklondon.com/afwl2016-catwalk-designers-day-2/

The wildlife of the culture is brought through by the animal print designs. For example the lower bottom image to the right by ‘Signature Secret’ has the staple leopard print design, which has never left the world of fashion.

The art of the culture is of extreme importance in Africa. These designs predominately present this through the splashes and contrasts of bright colours, shapes and textures.

As mentioned in the article on the above slide, the ancient Africans would meet in tribes at events such as the Marriage Festival and exchange beaded jewellery of which was symbolic and highly significant to the African people- this type of jewellery is still included in the S/S16 collection for Soboye who has paired the outfit with an orange/green beaded necklace for style.

Apart from the marriage festival, the art of the African culture as a whole very much so influences the fashion of African people which is shown strongly through their everyday wear. Vibrant colours and designs have been of popularity since anyone can remember. To support this a source comments that ‘[…] much of African clothing history has been pieced together from art, oral histories, and traditions that are continued by present-day tribal members’. (Fashionencyclopedia.com, 2016)

Task 8

BouBou

Different tribes are distinguished through their style of dress. However, considering the weather in Africa it is not surprise that their garments are loose fitting- the shapes, colours and desgins added to the garments is what gives the clothing an established look. ‘Different versions of loose-fitting robes are worn in many different regions of Africa. In Nigeria and Senegal a robe called a boubou for men and a m'boubou for women is popular. Other similar robes include the agbada and riga in Nigeria, the gandoura or leppi in Cameroon, and the dansiki in West Africa. Styles in northern Africa reflect the strong influence Muslims have had on the culture, especially the Berbers of Morocco and other Saharan desert countries’. (Fashionencyclopedia.com, 2016)

Leppi

Shell Beads

Head Dress

When researching the materials used to design African clothing it said that ‘animal skins and bark cloth were the first materials used’. (Fashionencyclopedia.com, 2016) Following that, the culture developed weaving techniques to produce beautiful cloth of richer colours and patterns. Raffia, the fiber of a palm plant, and cotton were common materials used to weave fabric. ‘At first cloth was woven by hand, and later looms (weaving devices) were created to make more complicated fabrics. Men and women worked together to produce fabric for clothing, with men weaving the fabric and women decorating it’. (Fashionencyclopedia.com, 2016) One of the most common fabrics is Folded batik cloth; this is mostly used to produce elaborate wrapped clothing.

Beaded Skirt Cape Dress

‘ In ancient times, when different African groups would meet and trade with each other, exotic items, such as shell beads in inland communities, would become prized status symbols and be incorporated into different tribal clothing styles’. (Fashionencyclopedia.com, 2016) ‘One prime example of how trade changed African clothing is the popularity of the tiny glass beads brought to Africa from Europe in the fifteenth century. Africans coveted the beads and soon created elaborate beaded skirts, capes, headdresses, and even shoes. The colours and patterns of the beadwork distinguished tribes from one another, and the styles of beaded clothing differentiated people by sex, age, and social status. These beaded items are now identified as traditional among many different groups in Africa’. (Fashionencyclopedia.com, 2016)

Tribal Jewellery

Task 8 Cads to suit African Inspired Fashion

I have chosen these cads as representatives of the styles I had in mind when thinking of African culture inspiring fashion. I have taken into consideration the art of the culture predominately and thought about colouring. These styles have space for clashing colours on different textures to create a feeling of safari.

Secondly, I have considered African beading which is a main factor in African culture. These garmentsespecially the jewellery are able to have beading attached in a variety of colours which is typical of African fashion.

Face of Africa Be Your Own Tribe

Task 8 Concept Board for African Inspired Fashion

Task 8 Evaluation for African Inspired Fashion

Face of Africa Be Your Own Tribe

‘Face of Africa’: This collection has been put together for high street fashion. The price ranges would be around £30-£40 for dresses and around £15-£20 for accessories.

I can see this range as part of an Asos editorial so it is a specific genre to choose. I would say that the target customer is from between 18-30 and sizes UK6-UK16. Majority of the clothing was loose and wrapped around the body similar to many African designs. The prints chosen were fully influenced by African art, wild life and typical everyday wear of African women. This is why the range is suitable for spring/summer as garments are looser and cooler for hotter evenings.

The range is designed for occasions such as holidays which are transferable from day to night. For example the maxi to the right is easy to wear with a pair of flat gladiator sandals at the beach which would also be appropriate for evening wear having a meal on holiday etc.

The orange dress to the far right is more of a special summer occasion.

For example a lot of people nowadays go on holiday for wedding events which this dress could cover- from the elegant fitted body with the over the shoulder effect and fish-tail hem this dress looks perfect for a wedding guest abroad or even a cruise ship evening event.

Colour: I wanted to include colours of orange/browns/yellows as well as animal prints to distinguish the influence of African culture. Because of the colours in the clothing being quite flamboyant and outrageous, the colour tone of the consumer’s skin would be more likely to be olive/tanned/black. I feel with this type of inspired background white origins would not be as much of a target customer as opposed to warmer tones of skin from different backgrounds.

Task 8

Italian Culture

Family: ‘Family is an extremely important value within the Italian culture […] Their family solidarity is focused on extended family rather than the west's idea of "the nuclear family“. Italians have frequent family gatherings and enjoy spending time with those in their family’. (Science, 2015)

Architecture: ‘Italy has given rise to a number of

architectural styles, including classical Roman, Renaissance, Baroque and Neoclassical. Italy is home to some of the most famous structures in the world, including Colosseum and the Leaning Tower of Pisa’. (Science, 2015)

Religion: ‘The major religion in Italy is Roman

Catholicism. This is not surprising, as Vatican City, located in the heart of Rome, is the hub of Roman Catholicism and where the Pope resides’. (Science, 2015)

Fashion: ‘Italy is home to a number of world-renowned fashion houses, including Armani, Gucci, Benetton, Versace and Prada’. (Science, 2015)

Task 8 Italian Inspired Mood Board

Task 8: Italian (Mixed Racial) Culture

Source from: http://hausmag.hausie.com/of-colorand-culture-multiculturalism-in-fashion-editorials/

The battle between the fashion industry and the problem of race and culture is cut out in Dolce & Gabbana’s 2016 editorial. The Italian led designer has merged its culture with a mixed range of race around the world with the power of fashioneven though the herriate is based in Italy, it doesn’t stick to the stereotypical Italian appearance.

Here is a link of Dolce & Gabbana's 2016-17 Winter Fall collection which included models of different racial backgrounds- something not all leading fashion designers have on the runway, even in in today’s society. http://www.dolcegabbana.com/wo man/fashion-show/

Task 8: Dolce & Gabbana’s A/W16 Collection

Source from: http://www.mytheresa.com/engb/designers/dolcegabbana.html?gclid=CPbuy6iGns8CFeQp0wodk4QEN g

Stefano Gabbana explains that fairy tale princesses were his drive and influence on this year’s FW16 show ‘Think Cinderella, Sleeping Beauty and Snow White’- all of white backgrounds. However, Gabbana disregards this within the show and uses models of multi-racial backgrounds who are all represented as ‘princesses’ in a princess scenery. Above you can see three images of women of different origins. This is ongoing throughout the show. None are of predominant backgrounds there is a mixed range of women who have all been dressed in the Italian designer embracing the same culture in different ways. The collection looks feminine, sleek and classic and not out of place as the fashion industry may have expected.

‘Italia Is Love’ a bold statement of delivering the message that Italy is a country of multi-racial backgrounds. The fashion here is shared and a combination of cultural backgrounds who love one another. The print of text is on a lot of the collection rather than just a few, a way to spread the message verbally.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/qfz9Z1CvMfk/maxresdefault.jpg

Task 8 Cads to suit Italian Inspired Fashion

When researching the Italian fashion I found that tapered trousers and suit looks were popular and stylish for the culture. I have chosen these cads from inspiration from Italian fashion houses such as Prada, Gucci, Dolce & Gabanna and Gorgio Armani.

The slim leg trouser paired with a boxy jacket on top is what seems to be most popular and looks good on the Italian working women. They look professional and stylish which means they can transform from office to night.

Paired with high end designer shoes and bags, the saffiano style handbag and stiletto heel is the key to any Italian inspired fashion statement. Colours are kept neutral with tones like black, grey and beige for the sophisticated, sassy look.

Giorgio Armani Fall/Winter 16

Giorgio Armani’s Fall/Winter 16 collection is the perfect match to the cads chosen on the slide above. The tapered trouser paired with a structured jacket looks elegant and sophisticated. The bold statement jackets definitely add an empowering edge to the fashion of the Italian led designer. Giorgio Armani has based the garments on a grey/beige and black colour pallet making the collection as professional and sleek as possible. Being paired with saffiano style handbags and stiletto heel shoes, the outfits on screen above represent modern women of the 21st century- going to work in style. The sunglasses added on as an accessory is the perfect Italian vibe- chic and stylish.

Task 9

Instagram- One of the world’s biggest forms of Fashion

Shows: Live videos and instant pictures can be uploaded added with tags & hashtags to link fashion and designers all over the world, almost as if the audience at home are present at the fashion houses. Below is a screenshot taken from Alyssa Sellor’s article on how social media shapes and forms fashion of today.

(Social Media Today, 2014)

Four Ways Instagram is Redefining the Fashion Industry ‘1. Brand Identity With visual storytelling, fashion brands and retailers are now using Instagram as their primary tool to reveal brand personality.

One look at a brand’s Instagram page should easily provide consumers a glimpse into the brand’s culture, lifestyle and products’. (Alter, 2016)

1)

2)

Chloe’s Instagram is very capitalised in not just showcasing their products, but representing the posh lifestyle associated with the brand. Take a close look at Chloe’s bio in the top left corner- key words include ‘luxury’, ‘principles of freedom’ and ‘femininity.’ Here the culture of the brand is given away to customers by an insight of what the company is about. An example of how ‘Instagram offers the perfect snapshot of a fashion label’s identity, and nowadays, it has become imperative for successful brands to communicate a unique footprint to their consumers.’ (Alter, 2016) 2. Community Engagement ‘One of the most innovative forms of marketing is to let the customer do the selling. Through Instagram, brands can generate high community engagement. The famed hashtag still proves to be a reliable and important way to increase reach.’

One way River island have recently achieved this is through the 2016 #RISnap combining both snapchat and Instagram. River Island had a campaign where customers could take snapchats of themselves in a River Island store and then upload to their Instagram accounts by hash tagging #Risnap to be in with a chance to win a £100 voucher to spend in store. Images could then be linked to RI’s Instagram account.

By Paige Baker-Bailey

Four Ways Instagram is Redefining the Fashion Industry

3)

3. ‘Behind the Scenes of Fashion Powered by Instagram Social media has blurred the lines between the once “exclusive” fashion community and the general public. Gone are the days of waiting until the September issue of Vogue or Bazaar to see the latest collection looks. Nowadays, fashion insiders capture the runway looks on their smartphones and share them from the show. Some fashion designers are going beyond that and offering their followers a “behind the scenes” peek’. (Alter, 2016) Designer Stacey Bendet for Alice and Olivia tends to give us frequent sneak peaks into her inspiration from daily life. For example take a look at image ‘3)’ which was only posted Saturday 24th September 2016 as her ‘weekend colour inspiration.’ (Alter, 2016) 4. Monetizing Social ‘According to eMarketer’s first-ever analysis of Instagram in July 2015, the social media platform is forecasted to bring in $595 million of mobile ad revenue this year, largely because Instagram has become increasingly shoppable. In March 2015, Instagram rolled out with a new feature, Carousel ads: a sponsored slideshow advertisement that appears on users’ Instagram feed. Banana Republic capitalized on this feature while also incorporating a “Learn More” button, which served as a gateway to purchase.

4) (Alter, 2016)

4) ‘Michael Kors also commercialized Instagram last November when it debuted #InstaKors.

After signing up on their website, consumers can double tap any image with an #InstaKors hashtag and an email will then be sent to them with links to purchase the posted products.

The most used shopping feature on Instagram, Curalate’s Like2Buy, allows brands to link Instagram photos with individual URLs, directly connecting consumers to products on their website. Within six months of launching Like2Buy, retailer Charlotte Russe achieved a 60% click-through rate’.(Alter, 2016)

By Paige Baker-Bailey

Task 9

#CHOOSEDAY The screenshots above are just a few examples of thousands of Instagram posts that connects consumers to fashion. Top fashion bloggers and sometimes fashion houses themselves will offer competitions out where if you share/like/comment and repost a certain item you could be in with a chance to win that item. The clever part of this is that by people all over the world sharing this with all of their Instagram followers they spread the product/designer all over bringing in more of an audience just by the tap of a finger.

It’s not all about the consumer making the effort to find designers and their products through searching them on their Instagram accounts. It works vice versa- designers, even those of top branded names are using social media tools such as Instagram to find out what their target markets are looking for. It’s an extremely cheap, easy and fast way to build a market up by taking a look at social media and seeing what the people want.

For example Miss Selfirdge uses the campaign ‘Choose Day’ which means they will post a few images of the same or similar garments in different colours to see what the consumer would be happier with. Instagram allows followers to comment and like the images which can be seen as a mini survery which provides Miss Selfirdge with what the consumer likes more out of colours and styles.

Here is some screenshots I have taken from my own Instagram account. It is so easy for people to pick up there mobiles and search the internet for their interests. Miss Selfridge’s technique of posting future trends/designs is one way of capturing my interest. This is a search engine me and all my friends and other young women over the world tend to use. They strategically use #ChooseDay to connect with their target market of young women as they know their market is predominantly found on social media. More often than not, if there is a variety of people who comment saying they like all colours they will bring the collection out with the different colours to choose from.

The heart at the bottom of the pages means you can tap ‘like’ which shows the popularity of that particular item this will also mean this will become a ‘top liked’ post on Instagram itself allowing people who don’t even follow Miss Selfridge's personal account to see the images posted which they can then choose to follow or hashtag ‘choose day’ to see the pictures of future fashions- either way it’s spreading the word about Miss Selfridge and allowing Miss Selfridge to see what their consumer wants.

By Paige Baker-Bailey

Task 9 As mentioned designers use social media to drive influence on their designs from what consumers are interested in. Alyssa Sellor’s article Social Media Influences on Fashion gives a perfect example of this taken from Zac Posen’s 2015 Spring/Summer collection.

‘One major shift that social media has had is simply that the average person can now influence fashion in ways never before possible. Just consider the recent ZAC Zac Posen’s Spring-Summer Ready to Wear 2015 Collection; influenced by comments and suggestions from his over 640,000 Instagram followers. It all began when Posen posted images of sunsets from a vacation on his Instagram account and followers began asking for prints in these hues, and “through the comments and pictures we got a new perspective about out creations,” said Posen in a recent article in NY Times. As a result, the final product includes a maxi dress in the hues of the sunset from that Instagram image as part of his 2015 collection’. (Social Media Today, 2014)

ZAC POSEN 2015 MAXI DRESS INFLUENCED BY INSTAGRAM POST

‘It’s not just the inspiration and influences on major fashion designers that social media is evolving; it’s also the way we view fashion and the industry as a whole. For decades, a few big names dominated the fashion industry in a very top-down fashion but now the average fashion blogger can influence major designers via social media outlets […] social media has acted as a catapult to push these “unknowns” into situations where they can make their designs and ideas known to millions. Social media sites act as a platform for the average person, and major fashion designers knowing that these people are out there so they can also reap benefits by reaching customers on a new level that is more intimate and interactive, rather than the highfalutin fashion runways.

The naturally interactive qualities of social media also make social media an effective tool, allowing people to be a part of the process of fashion making. Take for example the most recent New York Fashion Week. A study from eBay Deals, cited in an article on Mashable, considered data from top five social media networking sites during the 2013 NYFW and found that “more people are using social media for wardrobe advice, inspiration and the latest trends,” and fashion related Tweets doubled from the same event just a year earlier’.

With ‘people sharing Instagram photos and Tweets from the side-lines of top fashion runways, people from home can interact and engage in the fashion shows just like the attendees. This is great for the fashion industry which can tend to be closed off and secretive in their inspiration processes, opening it up for more people to both appreciate and enjoy.

And it’s not just high fashion experiencing influences from social media. From popular viral videos shared over and over again on social media to “jokes” and social media inspired sayings on t-shirts, buying trends centered on hashtags and our online behaviour is shifting too. According to 2014 market trends, a survey of social networks and buying behaviour “showed significant proportions of shoppers being influenced by (and participating in) social sites and friends during their upcoming holiday shopping,” with the results showing: 30% of shoppers had made a purchase via social media in the last year, 49% planning to make a purchase because of a social referral, and 44% intending to discover new products via social networks. In addition, the survey looked at social participation and found that 48% of those surveyed think it is important to share product recommendations via social media networks’. (Social Media Today, 2014)

By Paige Baker-Bailey

Task 9

How celebrity influences have affected the fashion retail industry.

Kim Kardashian is known as a fashion icon, a trend setter for the fashion industry. Over the years Kim’s fame has allowed her to show off her style were she follows the rule ‘less is more’, looking ‘sexy’ and ‘chic’ is a big part of her style. “And the fashion world has taken notice, she's now a front-row fixture in New York and Paris; has landed Vogue covers in America, Brazil and Spain; and has posed for Jurgen Teller, Jean-Paul Goude, and Steven Klein.” (Phelan, 2015)

She has featured on many fashion magazines, Vogue, Elle, Bazaar, W, Love and many many more. With all of these magazines selling millions of copies every cover, it’s a no brainer that Kim Kardashian is a celebrity that it most wanted for a fashion cover being a fashion icon.

Not forgetting when Kim KardashianWest broke the internet for her cover on ‘PAPER’, this revealing, nude photo went viral and within seconds was the most talked about cover in this generation.

Getting this much press and noticeability is a huge achievement for the magazine and makes her now more than ever, one of the most wanted celebrities for magazine covers.

ELLE online explains in this article how Kim Kardashian opens the door for a new maternity fashion range for pregnant women everywhere. Although Kim Kardashian got a lot of bad press about the looks she considered ‘acceptable’ for her pregnant time, this didn’t stop her from setting the trend for high street markets and designer brands maternity wear.

Kim Kardashian is known worldwide for her high lifestyle and ‘crazy’ family who are on their twelfth series of ‘Keeping Up With The Kardashians’. This fame has allowed her to become one of the most watched style icons of the 21st century, her fans make up the majority of the younger female generation which brings the most profit to the new trends that are purchased on both high street shops and high end designer brands.

This is an example of how Kim Kardashians revealing pregnancy styles have influenced the fashion retail. ASOS is a very popular brand and online shop that provides many different brands ranging in many diverse designers, therefore they target a vast audience.

This dress designed by the ASOS brand allows the women to feel sexy and chic during their pregnancy, embracing their bump and curves.

By Savanah Avery

Task 9 Task 9

Kylie Jenner also thanks big sister Kim for her stimulation when it comes to her fashion sense. Kylie signed a deal with PUMA for $1million, with Kylies fans this got PUMA huge incline in their profits and now their products Kylie models are worth more then usual. Sports wear has now been seen in a different light and many designers target this chic fitness wear look.

In 2012 Kendal and Kylie Jenner started their own clothing line ‘Pacsun’ and got a deal to show it off in teen vogue fashion magazine. This opened the doors for retailers everywhere to start getting ideas of the younger generations style and start to manufacture their own range similar to the teen celebrity idols of this generation.

But its not just Kim Kardashian-West who is a style icon, her whole family are considered as having style, including husband Kanye West who Kim thanks as she owes her fashion icon status to him. http://www.msn.com/enca/video/sports/kim-kardashian-admits-sheowes-her-fashion-icon-status-to-kanyewest/vp-AAeVtQw

Task 9

By Savanah Avery

‘Yeezy’ collection 2 has influenced TOPMAN to create this ‘distressed’ look range. The neutral colour pallet and baggy, boxy shapes of the garments have given of the look of this collection. Kanye West is a celebrity that both genders look at for inspiration in their wardrobe as he has produced clothing ranges and Kanye and Distressed Clothing. footwear ranges and even got a deal with Adidas.

‘Yeezy’ collection’s created by Kanye

West was one of the worlds most watched catwalks of this year. His fashion sense has influenced many brands to launch new ‘distressed’ clothes like Topshop/Topman, Urban outfitters, Zara etc.

The Influence of Drugs throughout the 1960s: The Psychedelic Era

‘Psychedelia is a name given to the subculture of people, originating in the 1960s, who often use psychedelic drugs such as LSD, mescaline and peyote. The term is also used to describe a style of psychedelic artwork and psychedelic music.

Psychedelic art and music typically try to recreate or reflect the experience of altered consciousness.

Psychedelic art uses highly distorted and surreal visuals, bright colors and full spectrums (Wikipedia, 2016) Task 9

(Richards, 2013)

By Joy McCabe

Task 9

By Joy McCabe

Past Psychedelic Fashion

By Joy McCabe

Loose Fitting

Bold Prints

Bright Colours

Influences on Fashion Today ‘The psychedelic tsunami is building. After Valentino and Dries van Noten’s celebration of the psychonaut, Anna Sui

turned on and tuned in with a collection she called Pop-sydelic. Fashion is the new acid, and Sui dressed for a nice, long trip. Her own eye for detail cried out for the lengthily contemplative response that only a lysergically altered state could give it. Thus forearmed, you could lose yourself for hours in Jamie Bochert’s opening outfit, every square inch of every layer richly patterned, sumptuously coloured. Her catwalk companion, a Syd Barrett lookey-likey named Justin, was scarcely less resplendent.

Always obsessive about research, Sui wove together a complex web of references from the Sixties — artists, musicians, designers, scene-makers – which gave her designs a substance beyond her own imaginings.

(The Business of Fashion, 2016)

Sabine Ducasse :: Melting Pot Collection

The Camilla SS12/13

From this article it is clear that the psychedelic 60’s period influenced by drugs still inspires designers today. Anna Sui’s A/W 16 collection presents a ‘complex web of references form the Sixties’. Taking inspiration from artists and musicians as I have previously mentioned as huge influences of psychedelic fashion through shapes and colours used, furthermore the free spirit vibe influenced the shape and styles of garments being very loose and long.

By Joy McCabe

Anna Sui Autumn 16

Task 10

Marketing & Branding Advertisement 1 This brand is clearly being marketed towards young men of around 18-35. It is also clear to see that the product being advertised is the blue shirt and not the car; positioning of the male model to the front and centre of the advert means we can understand this clearly which is a successful tool used by the marketer.

The colour scheme is consistently blue and grey. These particular colours are successful with portraying masculinity which is also reinforced with the ragged background of an unfinished car in a garage with tools scattered around.

However this advertisement could be seen as slightly confusing. The unfinished car in the background looks untidy. The text in the background supports this as the font looks like graffiti.

The confusing part of this market is the graffiti in the background states ‘I hate ugly’ which is controversy to what graffiti stands for.

So is the brand here targeting younger men who are pristine, polished and clean cut? I would argue that the product being advertised does not convey that in any sense. For example, the blue checked shirt looks over-sized with pushed up sleeves and an open chest. An image you would expect of a car mechanic, or a typical ‘bad boy’ look.

Overall, it appears the opposite of pristine. I would maybe expect a clean-cut suit by a designer such as Armani or Hugo Boss modelled by a chiselled looking businessman to promote the phase ‘I hate ugly’.

Task 10

Marketing & Branding

Advertisement 2 Coco Chanel’s advertisement here is much more clear and successful than the previous slide. The brand have clearly distinguished that the woman featured is her own boss and wear clothing how she chooses, rather than the clothes having to talk for her.

There is a very natural element behind this campaign to support that the woman is in control of her own clothes. For example, Chanel have positioned the model slouched over furniture rather than posing to impress. Her hair is kept natural with minimal make-up. Reinforcing the message that she is in charge of fashion rather than vice-versa.

Taking a closer look at this advertisement I also realised that the model’s nails have been left bare with no earrings. This is such a bold, successful and clear representation of the idea of naturalness behind Chanel’s campaign. In a result of this, It is clear that this target market is young, successful women who are independent and confident in their own dress sense.

In further support, the leaves in the far background of this image also suggest a natural vibe about this marketing- it’s not forced or constricted. The colours around the model are simply black and white, allowing the woman to take centre stage in her aztec dress.

The bold message is printed quite loudly on the page which is modern and independent- symbolic of the women who follow this campaign and dress in Chanel.

Task 10

Marketing & Branding

Advertisement 3 Jockey’s market is clear that it is aimed towards sporting gents. It is important that the distinction is clear between ‘gents’ and ‘lads’: this campaign is marketed towards classic sports ranges such as golf and tennis. This market is actually targeted towards young men.

However the colours, image composition, and text of the advertisement would seem as though it is targeting towards mature men. Even the model used at the front looks a little older than expected with a beetles hair style and clothes from the 80’s. If this was down to me I would have a younger man in the type of clothes you would expect to see from sophisticated heritage.

The message behind the imagery is clear ‘win or lose you’ll still look the best player’ meaning you will get the best of both worlds- you can play sport and also attract female attention which is why you can see where the younger generation may be drawn in to this branding.

Even Jockey’s tagline at the top supports this ‘Never mind the game, you’ll score with Jockey’. This sends the message that the younger generation are not as focused on the actual game anymore, but rather the ‘game’ which includes looking good for women.

This campaign could work better if re-furbished. The sophisticated, ‘teddy boy’ look can still be achieved without using out-dated images, styles and colours.

Task 10

Marketing & Branding Advertisement 4 This is the first non-gender marketing strategy we have seen out of all other advertisements and probably the most successful in reaching its target customer.

The central focus on trainers is picked up straight away with the particular composition and angle.

It is clear that Red Tape are targeting a younger, modern generation through techniques such as the fast paced city in the background (New York maybe) and the fast, sleek sports car. The image of the two characters appear sexualised and energetic which conveys the trainers symbolically: young, fun energetic and absorbs you in.

The text in this advertisement plays a big part in establishing it’s required target market. Take a look at the blue square at the top ‘Choose UR playground’: the younger generation would take the slang term ‘ur’ as a normality. Meaning this is symbolic of who Red Tape is trying to reach out to.

The name Red Tape itself again, seems sexualised and young.

The imagery of this market is extremely digitalised which is what the younger market would be comfortable and familiar with.

Task 10

Market and Branding Advertisement 5 Dolce & Gabbana’s marketing is clearly established through this advert. They are targeting young, modern, trendy workmen who are successful, pristine and futuristic in their fashion choices.

The metallic colours are easily focused upon with the spaceman like jackets and trousers. They have added a modern twist to this type of approach by adding a gold metallic tie to the classic work suit.

The images to the left portray an attractive young man who is successful in his place of work and then also the image to the right gives an impression of how successful he is outside of work: being in good shape and still in his metallic fashion. Dolce and Gabbana imply that to look this good you need futuristic fashion sense, in a result of this you would be ahead of the game and everyone else at the office.

The colour scheme in this advert allows the metallic gold to take centre stage by using neutral colours in the background and having it empty allows for the metallic to have a voice of its own. This campaign is simple, but memorable- a good strategy to have considering the amount of competition in the fashion industry.

Task 11

Successful Advertisements 1) It is clear that the target market of Sofit’s campaign is aimed towards both masculine and

1)

feminine females who are in need of work-out clothing.

The model is centre of attention in the middle of the screen and seems dominant with her folded arms and stern face- it looks as though she is determined and motivated, ready for a challenge.

The desolate background could seem daunting but she seems confident it will not beat hermeaning she is fit, lean and healthy.

The half sleeve tattoo is a tool of technique used by the marketer as this blurs societies expectations of women- she is in touch with her masculine side but still shows signs of traditional feminism with curly hair and make-up.

The tank top featured is grey and pink which again is a mixture of femininity and masculinity standing out to the modern-day female who wants to look good but isn’t afraid to work out and face things alone as this advertisement conveys through the long winding road.

2)

2) LACOSTE have created a strong relationship between different types of sports and the energy

driven throughout sporting events is recreated through the vibrant colours in this advert. The advertisement clearly shows sportswear of all different types of colours and garments.

The campaign is very energetic and vibrant- the sportsmen on the campaign show that actions are definitely louder than words. They express their individual sport through movement. Their clothing allows them to move freely and loudly which is achieved with the use of bright colours.

This campaign has an attitude of determination, motivation and is definitely inspiring towards young people.

It is clear that this target customer is aimed towards a younger generation to inspire them through the energy sport creates. What makes this mostly modern is the non-gendered target market.

Sporting campaigns can be known to usually target men through using strong male physics in backgrounds such as gyms.

3) The 2016 Dior advertisement for the classic black handbag is as successful as ever. The brand have clearly defined

3)

the product being promoted by placing it in front of a beige couch with a lot of neutral colours to make sure the product is centre of attention.

The beige sophisticated ‘homely’ background with a model who looks simple but sophisticated also showcases the posh lifestyle that Dior wants to capture. This will say a lot about the target consumer of whom Dior is attempting to attract.

It is apparent from this advert that for this particular product, Dior are targeting women from between the age of 25+ in successful jobs who need a classic, staple black bag for everyday use. In a way, this advertisement is an empowerment towards 21st century women who work hard for their own successes which is celebrated with beautiful accessories such as this Dior classic.

The material and shape look rich of the bag is, sleek and modern much like the background of the image which links the campaign perfectly. As a result this advertisement appears clear, memorable and most of all successful.

Task 11 1)

2)

Unsuccessful Advertisements 1) Dolce & Gabbana’s advertisement here is extremely unsuccessful due to it’s dominating

sexualisation. There is no clear market branding here or a target consumer.

A sexist issue is portrayed through this advert by having one female on the floor dresses in a wet-look black leather bodice surrounded by with muscular men. What comes across as so disturbing is the male model pinning her down with a stern look in his eye whilst her eyes are fixated to the ground.

This makes it not just egotistical for the male kind, but suppresses women dramatically.

This has an uneasy effect on the public as its hard to engage with what is actually going on. For example, when I first seen this image I couldn’t find anything fashion related as there is too much skin rather than stand out clothing or accessories.

Again, as mentioned the image portrayed defies masculine dominance over the female body which is something women in the 21st century would not agree with after coming so far with women’s rights.

In terms of background also, there is no significance to the image it is rather quite random and has no relation whatsoever.

2) Gucci’s advertisement here seems contrasting through colour and prop. On the left side you

can see a model who seems like a punk rocker, but majority of the background is quite neutral and bare . Whereas you would imagine quite a lot of quirky text and symbols to accompany a punk type of look.

However, it is obvious that Gucci are advertising the snake-skin black leather jacket which is quite similar to the biker jacket of the 50’s.

The background of this advertisement does not match the type of clothing being advertised- it seems as if the model is next to a roman style statue.

If I were to re-do this campaign I would maybe add some text around with text that give the feeling of punk rock. Rather than something as neutral as a statue.

I would also take a closer look at the background and include something which had more links to the clothing and the target market as I would argue there is no clear target market being represented here as the background is too neutral to link too.

3) Diesel here have completely complicated their target market, consumer and branding as a

3)

whole.

The tagline near the top states ‘Jeans and Work wear’ yet the people in the image are mostly wearing swimwear. This type of clothing has no relation to what Diesel are actually saying they are about.

The two models at the bottom have got a significance toward the brand by wearing jeans and denim jackets. Yet they look out of place compared to everyone else in swimwear.

Also, the age range on this campaign comes across as blurred- most of the models are pensioners which means they would not fit into the target customer as they provide ‘work wear’.

Overall, there is no clear connection or relationship between product and this advertisement.

The meaning seems random and out of place, yet the attitude seems care free.

Mini Branding Task Mind Map for ‘Lounge Around’ Womenswear collection for leading retailer, Next.

COMFORT Soft fabric

Slim Fit

Stretchy

CONVEINENT

Neutral Greys Joggers

LOUNGE

AROUND

Easy to wear Relaxed

Gathered Ankle

Child-Friendly

Jumpers

100% COTTON Jumpers

Mini Branding Task Mood Board

Mini Branding Task

‘Lounge Around’ Womenswear collection for leading retailer, Next.

When looking through different online high-street retailers I found that many of them already had edits in there search engine for specific types of collections.

For example, Asos has ‘Going out-out’ and River Island has ‘Holiday Shop’. As one of many frequent online shoppers, I find edits like this a lot more interesting and easier rather than searching through the entire website for something specific.

Next’s Brand History

When analysing Next’s online website I realised that they hadn’t introduced anything like this which leaves a gap in the market for me to fill.

I have chosen ‘Lounge Around’ as the title of the collection to suit Next’s target market as I want to put together a range of lounge wear clothing such as tracksuit bottoms, comfortable hoodies and jackets for around the house or popping out to the shops in the car.

I feel this would be a successful collection for Next’s target customer as they appeal to the stereotypical working class family around the ages of 35+. Next also offer a childrens-wear and home range which is why I find it suitable to target women of the ages 35+ who are looking for something to wear at home on their days off work or going to the park with the children.

The collection I plan to put together will be modern, fashionable and most of all affordable to meet the demands of Next’s target consumer. I want my range to fit in with the rest of Next’s already popular products which means attention to comfortable, sustainable fabric and price is significant. In order to have more of an understanding about this I researched Next’s ‘CUSTOMERS AND PRODUCTS’ which is screenshotted to the right along with ‘NEXT’S COMPANY PROFILE.’ What stood out to me the most was the first sentence of Next’s Company Profile: ‘What’s next in style is what concerns NEXT.’ (Information, 2016) This means to me that when choosing garments it is crucial to find higher end styles of the most popularity that will be successful at a lower price when selling in store.

(Nextplc.co.uk, 2016)

‘NEXT PLC Company Profile What's next in style is what concerns NEXT. NEXT plc sells moderately priced clothing for men, women, and children; housewares; and furniture through 500-plus stores (including 60-plus stand-alone NEXT Home stores) in the UK. It also franchises about 200 stores in 37 counties in Asia, Europe, and the Middle East. NEXT targets customers in their 20s and 30s who are looking for stylish but affordable clothes to take them through the next fashion cycle. Sales come from retail stores and the NEXT Directory catalogue and website, catering to customers in some 70 countries. Its other businesses are NEXT Sourcing, which procures NEXT merchandise from Asia and the UK, and about 40 Lipsy stores for teens’. (Information, 2016)

Mini Branding Task ‘1864: J Hepworth & Son, Gentleman’s Tailors is established in Leeds, England.

1981: Hepworth buys the chain of Kendalls rainwear shops to develop a womenswear group of stores called NEXT. 1982: The first NEXT womenswear store opens on 12th February. There are 70 NEXT stores around the UK by the end of July.

1984: NEXT for Men launches in August. By December there are 52 menswear stores.

The first mini department store in Edinburgh opens incorporating womenswear, menswear, shoes and a café.

1985: Debut of NEXT’s first home interiors range. First department store with womenswear, menswear and interiors opens in Regent Street, London.

1986: Parent company, J Hepworth & Son changes its name to NEXT plc. The group acquires Grattan plc (mail order company).

1987: Launch of NEXT childrenswear.

1988:Launch of NEXT Directory – the brand’s innovative new concept in home shopping.

1991: Sale of Grattan to Otto Versand.

1993: NEXT announces its brand strategy of “One Brand; Two Ways of Shopping”, bringing together the common ranges across both retail and home shopping formats.

1994: NEXT’s 300th store opens. The brand is now trading in 16 countries worldwide.

1999: Launch of shopping on the internet from NEXT directory at www.next.co.uk. This extends NEXT’s business strategy to “One Brand; Three ways of shopping”.

2000: Next day delivery introduced as standard for orders placed before 5pm, with the NEXT Directory.

2000: Launch of NEXT Flowers.

2003: NEXT opens new larger format stores in Nottingham, Birmingham, Dudley and Newcastle Gateshead together with a large Home store at Glasgow Braehead.

2005: NEXT Home launches its Wedding List Service.

2007: NEXT celebrates its 25 year jubilee. Launch of NEXT’s luxury Signature collection.

2008: NEXT acquires younger women’s fashion brand, Lipsy.

2009: NEXT extends its home shopping facility to the USA and over 30 other countries worldwide through Nextdirect.com. NEXT named British High Street Retailer of the Year.

2010: NEXT confirmed as Official Clothing and Homeware Supplier to the London 2012 Olympic Games and Paralympic Games.

2011: Ventura, the Group’s customer service management business, is sold for £65m cash. NEXT opens its first combined fashion, home & garden store at Shoreham-by-Sea. 2012: NEXT celebrates its 30 year jubilee 2013: NEXT now trades online in more than 70 countries worldwide.

2014: 2014 saw the opening of 2 large home and fashion stores which were built from the group up in Hedgend and Maidstone.

2015: Next directory introduces order by midnight for delivery next day. NEXT opened its 546th store’ (Nextplc.co.uk, 2016)

What Next already has to offer: It’s important for me to build a report up with what Next already have in comparison to my collection. This way I can see what prices are reasonable and what sizes/fabric/styles are mostly stocked.

Mini Branding Task Market Research: Comp Shop

Where is my niche? Taking a look at Next’s loungewear it is similar in terms of shape and comfort. However, these products are mostly for in-house wear. In comparison, I want to offer similar comfortable styles which are suitable outside the home as well or if you have friends over and don’t want to look as though your in pyjamas.

Ripple-Look Fleece Top £20

Khaki Slogan Sweat Top £24

Cashmere Blend Tunic £34

Grey Embroidered Bird Sweat Top £32

Grey Embroidered Bird Sweat Joggers £28

Velour Cuffed Joggers £22 Pink Soft Touch Sweat Top £22 Ecru Velvet Pocket Jersey T-Shirt £16

Slogan Sweat Top £24

Pink Soft Touch Sweat Bottoms £20 Rib Leggings £6-£15 Camo Trim Cropped Joggers £18 Rib Wide Leg Pants £10-£20

Competitors: It’s important for me to build a report up with Next’s competition to see what is out there at what price in order for me to intrigue my customer.

Grey Waterfall Cardigown £25

Mini Branding Task Market Research: Comp Shop Debenhams Loungewear

Striped Poncho Hoodie £25

Pink Pineapple Hoodie £39

Navy Waterfall Cardigan £25

Grey Fleece Hoodie £22.50

Denim Marl Jacket £22

Nude Luxe Jogger £30

Crepe Jogger £39

Boyfriend TShirt £18

Grey T-Shirt £18 Grey Drawstring Jogger £25

Mini Branding Task Market Research: Comp Shop Debenhams Loungewear

As shown on the slide above Debenhams offer some loungewear for women at a reasonable price (similar to what I plan on pricing items at). However, there collection of loungewear is more in-house appropriate. It can look a little like ‘posh pyjamas’. This gives me an advantage in bringing ‘Lounge Around’ into place as my collection is designed for going from the home, to the car, to the shops or even the park with the children.

Mini Branding Task Market Research: Comp Shop H&M’s Loungewear

Khaki Joggers £12.99

Navy Bomber Jacket £29.99 Hooded Jacket £14.99

Light Pink Jumper £5.99

Joggers £12.99 Printed Sweatshirt £19.99

Grey Sweatpants £19.99 Black Suit Joggers £19.99

Sweatshirt £15.99 Waffle Jersey Top £14.99

Knitted Jumper £14.99 Fleece hooded Jacket £24.99

Long-sleeved jersey top £7.99

Mini Branding Task Market Research: Comp Shop H&M’s Loungewear

H&M’s range of loungewear is similar in shape and design as what my collection will have.

However, fabric is a little cheap and doesn’t seem as sustainable as what I plan on having.

Also due to research I found that ladies don’t usually stick to their usual sizes at H&M as they are known for making things a lot smaller than other stores. Take a look at the article highlighted which globally shamed H&M for making their clothing a lot smaller than average.

Source: (Mail Online, 2016)

This kind of impression is not a positive one for H&M. Leaving the customer disheartened by sizes this gives my collection an advantage as it would be true to size.

Mini Branding Task Market Research: Comp Shop Marks & Spencer’s Loungewear

Khaki Soft Joggers £19.50

Hooded Jumper £35

Soft Grey T-Shirt £9.50 Soft White T-Shirt £9.50

Straight Leg Joggers £18

Grey Hooded Coatigan £49

Grey Soft Joggers £22.50

Grey Cashmere Joggers £99 Grey Cashmere Hoodie £120

Raglan t-shirt £15 Pure Cashmere Hooded Poncho £199

Striped Jersey Top £15

Where does my target customer shop?:

When reviewing all three comp shops I decided to take a look at the reviews left by customers. When comparing all three competitors (M&S, Debenhams and H&M) it was clear to me that Marks and Spencer had the most similar target customer, so I have analysed some customer feedback from similar products which will also feature in my collection.

Marks and Spencer- a similar high street store to Next and often found nearby Next stores. As expected, Marks and Spencer have similar products available due to customer demand. To look more specifically at my area of clothing I looked to see whether Marks & Spencer offered lounge wear.

M&S had similar colours, fabrics and styles of what I will be offering. However, in opposition they have named the collection ‘sportswear’. I have screenshotted some images to the right as examples.

If you take a look at the joggers to the right they are neutral in colour and slim fitting which is the style I am promoting in my collection.

However, what gives me an advantage is there isn’t much consistency regarding price for the M&S collection. The joggers to the left are £99 and the joggers to the right are £22.50. The joggers are similar in colour, shape, fabric and can both be washed at 30º in the machine. This would stand out a lot to the women who we are both targeting- if they are both machine washable why would you go for the more expensive ones which are cared for in the same way as the cheaper ones.

In light of this, this would benefit me and my collection as I would have a more consistent, affordable price range for my target consumer which would be one reason for them to come and buy my collection as oppose to Marks & Spencer's.

Also, Marks & Spencer have advertised these items as ‘Sportswear’ as mentioned previously. Meaning a lot of working mums may not click on the link as they wouldn’t find it appropriate for their needs. The naming of a collection is key in order to intrigue your customer.

Mini Branding Task

I have chosen this item from M&S as this is the type of styling and colour I, myself will be choosing when Market selecting garments for Lounge Around. Below is a screenshot of a review left by a genuine customer. The lady is around the age of 55 which means she is also a target customer of Lounge Around- making her feedback crucial to my development. The lady mentions how she liked the oversized hoodie for comfort and casual wear. But, the downfall was the size of the pockets being too big which meant she returned it back to store.

This would be a vital asset for me to consider when choosing pocket sizes and designs. If ladies are willing to pay £125 for a hoodie it is important to get it right.

Care instructions: Machine washable even at 30º Care instructions: Machine washable even at 30º £99 £22.50

Research: Main Competitor

Mini Branding Task Trend Forecasting

WGSN have forecasted that for both A/W17-18 into S/S18 that basics will become the most popular. It is clear that greys are popular in colour from autumn/winter to spring/summer. This forecasting benefits my collection as I wanted more of a transitional collection to appeal to people who are looking for items that will see them through the whole year.

(WGSN | Creating Tomorrow | Trend Forecasting & Analytics, 2016)

Mini Branding Task

Trend Forecasting: Cads to suit the Collection: Lounge Around

The cads I have selected her are similar to what WGSN’s trend forecasting set out for 17/18. I wanted a relaxed, loose fitting garment which looked modern and casual for everyday wear.

Mini Branding Task Customer Profile

Gender: Female Age: For this collection I will be targeting women of around the age of 35+.

General: I am creating a collection focussed on women who are in part-time work and have days off during the week/ weekends. My target customer also includes full time mums who are at home a lot with the children or working mums during half-term and weekends etc.

This makes a big difference to me as I am going to be advertising for lounge wear which is easily accessible- meaning it’s neutral colours will be easy to pair up with different trainers or sliders for on-the-go mums and working women. A lot of women tend to do their shopping and run errands on their days off work during the week and weekends. This is where ‘Lounge Around’ comes in- fashionable, comfortable and affordable for those days you don’t want to pull heels out the wardrobe or wear fitted jeans.

Where does my target customer shop?: On the previous slides I outlined three specific comp shops: Marks and Spencer, Debenhams and H&M. The reason I choose these three retailers as they apply to a similar target market as methe stores themselves are family friendly and offer other departments such as childrens-wear in all three stores. This makes shopping a little easier and more convenient for the type of customer I am targeting as everything is in the one place.

Price Range: I plan on making my price range fairly reasonable and affordable, yet good quality. Price range will very from around £15-£40 for specific items. I want the range to be accessible and staple- meaning women between sizes 6-18 have a variety of choice for less money. I want an in-between price range- H&M was quite low in terms of price but the material was not of the best quality. Whereas Marks and Spencer seemed quite undecided on their budgets- mainly too high. This is where Lounge Around for Next is beneficial- an in-between price range for good quality fabric and material: unforgettable and could last forever in the wardrobe- comfort will never go out of style (especially for mums & busy on-the-go women).

http://cdn.kidspot.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/working_mother-600x420.jpg

Helen is 35 and is a part-time nurse. Helen is happily married to an electrician; who share the love of their two daughters- Olivia (8) and Grace (10).

Helen’s placement of work is at A&E in Aintree Hospital which is extremely busy and constant. Helen also has a busy at-home lifestyle taking care of the girls, the housework and still making time for family days out with her husband and the girls along with balancing a job.

Helen works two full days during the week; and one day at the weekend every other week.

Helen works 12 hour shifts to squish her contracted hours into 2/3 days in order for her to be able to take the girls to school where they leave at 8.30 and then pick the girls back up at 3.30.

Two days a week, straight from picking the girls up, Helen will take them to their dance class which starts at 4.30 and finishes at 5.30. When finished Helen will go home and begin cooking healthy meals for her family which they all eat together and talk about their day.

Helen and her husband like to take the girls on family days out mostly of a weekend when Helen isn’t working to places like the park, the beach or going on drives in their Ford Kuga to new places and seeing different things.

Helen also likes to take the kids to see their grandparents of a Friday night where they all have a family take-away and play games.

During the week, Helen will also make various trips to Asda for food and appliance shopping.

Being a nurse means that Helen has a uniform with comfortable trainers for work so on her days off she likes to have easy, staple pieces that she can put on to do the shopping and drive the girls around.

Helen’s go-to place for clothes shopping is Next and Marks and Spencer's. Her price range for herself is around £25-£45 for things such as plain t-shirts ,jeans, jackets, joggers and jumpers which she expects to be sustainable and easily washable.

Helen likes to get dressed up for an occasion such as a family party or birthday meal which is rare due to her busy life-style and having her two daughters. However, when Helen does need outfits for an occasion she will often go to Next for something a little more special to wear but not over-the-top. Here she can also pick some new little dresses and shoes up for the girls and new shirt for her husband- so shopping for the whole family is easier and more convenient.

With the little spare time she has, Helen likes to have a relaxing afternoon to herself when the girls are at school and her husband is at work. On these days she will clean the house, have a long bath and sit with a coffee in her loungewear before picking the girls up at 3.30.

Mini Branding Task Customer Pen Portrait

Helen

Mini Branding Task Concept Board

Comfort

Relaxed Fitting

Natural Grey Colour Pallet

Cotton Fabric

Mini Branding Task Slogan, Mission Statement, Logo

Slogan for Lounge Around: ‘Love My Lounge.’

Original Mission Statement for Next: ‘The NEXT retail chain was launched in February 1982 and the first store opened with an exclusive coordinated collection of stylish clothes, shoes and accessories for women. Collections for men, children and the home quickly followed. NEXT clothes are styled by its in-house design team to offer great style, quality and value for money with a contemporary fashion edge’. Nextplc.co.uk, 2016) Logo:

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Lounge.Around When I researched slogans the main thing that stuck out to me was that they were short, striking and memorable. I looked at popular ones such as Nike-’Just Do It’ John Lewis ‘Never Knowingly Undersold’, L’Oreal- ‘Because your worth it’ etc.

When taking a look at these I understood that they all had specific meanings behind to relate to their product and customer market. When creating mine I wanted to make a bold statement of what my collection was and who it was targeted towards. I decided on ‘Love My Lounge’- quick, simple and straight to the point of loungewear. This gives my target customer a clear distinctive idea of what they will be looking at and who I am actually targeting- people who need/want comfortable wear for everyday.

Before creating my logo I researched other popular logos to get inspiration. Places such as River Island, Chanel, Topshop and Next themselves tended to use plain black font with no imagery just the name of their establishment. I found this was effective and memorable hence why I chose the initials of my collection to take centre stage with the collections title underneath in black, bold font.

Mini Collection Branding Task

8. Grey Jersey with metallic arm detailing £14

1. Blue tile print jacket £20 5. Soft Grey T-shirt £10

3. Grey Speckle Tee £12

7. Misty Grey Jacket £25

2. Blue tile print joggers with elasticated grey waistband £18

9. Grey Jersey joggers with metallic waistband £20

6. Grey Speckle Hoodie £25

4. Grey Speckle Joggers £18

11. Metallic Silver L.A Sliders £10

12. Metallic Silver Sneaker £14

10. Blue tile print poncho with metallic detailing £22

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Mini Branding Task

Lounge.Around Collection

Here is some examples my finished collection for Lounge Around. I have kept to a strict colour scheme of natural greys as well as used similar fabrics throughout the range in order to keep to a particular customer profile.

All of my garments are made from at least 95% cotton. The main reason for this is the comfort factor of the material. To expand on my knowledge I also collected some information on the advantages of using cotton fabric.

‘Unlike most synthetic fabrics, cotton absorbs the sweat from your body and allows it to evaporate into the air. It works like a towel, wicking the moisture away from your skin and discouraging the growth of bacteria and yeast. This property makes it the best fabric for exercise clothes, underwear and sleepwear.’ (Gupta, 2016) This advantage in particular stood out to me the most, this type of collection has been designed for women on the go with children or even just at home all day. They need something to feel comfortable and fresh in all day which is why cotton is another benefactor.

Gupta also comments that ‘cotton is a soft and stretchy fabric that is comfortable to wear’ it does not ‘conduct temperature well, making it an insulator. It keeps you cool in summer and warm in winter, allowing you to be comfortable year round. It resists static cling as well’. This was another reason why it would work well with my collection as Lounge Around is a transitional season which means the clothing will work well in different weathers- making it versatile and accessible.

‘Cotton fabrics do not cause skin allergies, which is why they are recommended for babies and people with sensitive skin. This is also one of the reasons why bandages and gauze are made with cotton’. I felt like this would be another reason for women to buy my products as they are designed towards working-mums who will be around babies/children.

Finally, ‘Cotton fibres are spun into a tight yarn that is both strong and durable. In fact, it is 30 percent stronger when it is wet, so it can withstand quite a few washes. It happens to be stain-repellent too’. This again gives my collection another reason to be made in cotton as I wanted something durable and versatile rather than having to watch what you may (or your child) may spill on your clothes throughout the day.

With my collection featuring mostly joggers/t-shirts and hoodies for casual wear I have also included two types of shoes: metallic grey sneakers and metallic grey sliders. The purpose of these are as my collection is transitional in season these two types of shoe are easily worn with any outfit for different weather and different situations. For example, the sliders are accessible for in-house wear and driving the car . Whereas, on the other hand, the sneakers are versatile for going the park with the children or shopping in different weather types. I see these being popular with my target customer as they compliment the simplistic outfit by adding a certain edge with the metallic fabric.

To make my brand stand out a little I have added a tiny L.A in black font on the sliders. The idea of this is to connect my customer to the brand whilst also subtly advertising the brand. It gives the collection a uniqueness as not many brands use this method of design. Only River Island do things such as this on there accessories. This doesn’t make much difference for my collection as they are not a competitor towards my collection and they also target a separate target customer.

Mini Branding Task Next Advertisement Campaign

‘With High Street chains unveiling designer collaborations and celebrity faces, Next is determined not to be left out of the loop.

The retailer has unveiled a hot new campaign - featuring seven dancers and a choreographed routine.

The girls, sporting identical outfits, were filmed for the ad that looks more like a music video to promote next-day delivery for online purchases.

Breaking with tradition, the retailer will air the full screen edit on Facebook, Twitter and next.co.uk this Thursday ahead of the scheduled TV premiere on Sunday evening.

Price points for the collection range from £55 for a bright orange pocket coat to £78 for a floor-length blue maxi dress. http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2011/10/11/article-20479200E523A8200000578-604_634x591.jpg

The move celebrates the brand's stable success. It reported pretax profits for the first half of the year of £228m matched by a 15.1 per cent rise in online sales despite other retailers feeling the onslaught of the recession.

Next chief executive Lord Wolfson said: 'In a difficult year, Next has proved resilient.

In many ways 2011 has presented the perfect storm to the retail economy.'

(Mail Online, 2016)

http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2011/10/11/article2047920-0E5473D800000578-910_634x609.jpg

The 2011 campaign for Next as described by the Daily Mail as ‘breaking tradition’ featured dancers dressed in the same clothing who choreographed a performance rather than standing still and modelling in plain backgrounds like the normal Next campaigns. This made a difference to Next and added something more unique to their name. What this campaign also promotes is that different type of women can look just as good as each other in the same clothes. Next has made use of using multi-racial models which is fair in equality.

Mini Branding Task Next Advertisement Campaign

These are images taken from Next’s 2016 Autumn campaign. It is clear to me that Next use empty, neutral backgrounds and allow the clothing to do the talking. Next also use the same model but in different places and in different clothes. The clothes are not that similar which means Next are promoting different life situations that need different clothing. Giving the campaign diversity tells people that Next are an all-round retailer which don’t have a specific speciality.

This is an advantage for me as I can use similar backgrounds for my Lounge Around campaign which will still suit the target customer of Next. I plan on using a size 8-10 model who is late 20’s/early 30’s to engage with my audience.

Mini Branding Task

Lounge Around Advertisement Campaign

Homely background with Neutral Colours: To get the right type of background to capture the idea of Lounge Around I have chosen a modern interior to connect to the modern workingmum. My collection is for working mums who are at home quite a lot and also in and out of the car. I have used neutral colours primarily in this advert as it relates to the collections colour pallet and puts my vision into perspective.

The idea of comfort is definitely portrayed with this tranquil setting- something I found important when choosing cads.

Logo at centre of campaign: I would place the logo in the centre of the advertisement so that this would stick out to the consumer. The idea of having the bold, black text is to stand out and capture the attention of the consumer. This way the collection is established and the consumer is enticed.

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Lounge.Around

http://www.horneanddekker.com/wpcontent/uploads/2015/05/New-Home-Decor-IdeasScreen-Backgrounds1.jpg

Love My Lounge...

Model: This is where I would place the female model who is size 8-10 and in her early 30’s. I would choose a neutral/grey tracksuit from the collection for her to wear in order to stand out from the background. I would have the model placed on the couch with a cup of coffee/tea to get the relaxed, laid back effect.

Slogan in bottom right corner: I would place the slogan in the bottom right corner to stand out against the beige carpeting. By placing it towards the bottom right the effect of this would be to leave the consumers eye on this at the end so that it would be memorable and stay in mind.

Mini Branding Task Lounge Around Advertisement Campaign Previously in task 9 I outlined how dominant social media (Instagram in particular) can be over our influences of fashion through live streams, hashtags, and images. I will be including all three major forms of social media (Twitter, Facebook & Instagram) to advertise my collection: Lounge Around.

Social media can establish the brand identity by allowing to post visual images of what Lounge Around is all about.

Once the collection is up and running (and hopefully successful) I plan on running certain competitions such as if customers like, shared and repost items they can be in with a chance of winning that item. The strategy behind this is that it makes Lounge Around go global by different people spreading the word.

As I outlined, Miss Selfridge run #CHOOSEDAY which occurs on a Tuesday- making Tuesday’s that little bit more fun by adding a pun and also giving people something to look forward to. I would look into this and run something similar when ceating new garments for the collection. This way it would allow me to see what my customers want more in certain colours. By posting a picture of a jacket in three separate colours it will fill me in on what will sell better etc.

Although River Island is an established company already, they have recently promoted ‘RI Active’. This means they have created another Instagram account dedicated to their active wear. This has influenced me to start something up similar maybe ideas such as ‘LoungeWear@Next’ – this is simple, memorable and also making the collection a little unique and separate to Next itself.

Another benefit of this type of advertising it that it would be free of cost to upload images/videos and then I can visually see what the people want by their comments, shares and likes. Almost everyone these days is on social media in some form which is why I would use all three types.

Mini Branding Task Evaluation

Starting point: I found it would be useful to begin with a mind-map. This way it allowed me to get my ideas down in writing so that the collection became visual in my own mind. I used soft greys and light neutral font to get the idea of the colour scheme I would be working with.

The image in the middle of my mind-map is a simple outfit that would be similar to what ‘Lounge Around’ looked like in my mind.

Mood Board: After I had created my mind-map to look at my idea in words I thought it would be best to put these ideas down into a mood board by using images to convey my plan. I was strict in using light/neutral tones- mostly grey to emphasise the colour scheme behind my collection. I found a neutral colour pallet that features mostly greys, nudes and light colours.

I placed images of women in their late 20’s in luxury loungewear and this conveys the type of customer I am hoping to appeal to.

There is one image particular which is a cup of coffee which says ‘Coffee because adulating is HARD’- this was a fun pun to stand out and get the message across that I am creating these relaxed fitting, comfortable garments for working-women to wear when the day does become over-ran and they need a little fun.

I used mostly in-home interior in the background to symbolise the point in loungewear- something to be comfortable in throughout the day and something you feel soft and fluffy in: like the comfort of your own home.

NEXT: The reason I choose leading retailer, Next for my collection to become a part of was that it is a store which appeals to the family base. I was particularly advertising to working mums who are looking for lounge clothing to tick all the boxes of their daily routines at a reasonable price.

I thought it would be beneficial to take a look at the brands history and become familiar with Next’s aspirations, qualities and products. It stood out to me that Next also target the working-family and offer good quality products at an affordable price. This is something I wanted to include in my collection. Therefore, Lounge Around fits in with the brand itself and offers affordable products with good quality.

Comp Shop: When I researched What Next already has to offer in terms of loungewear it is similar in terms of shape and comfort. However, these products are mostly for in-house wear only. In comparison, I want to offer similar comfortable styles which are suitable outside the home as well or if you have friends over and don’t want to look as though your in pyjamas.

Competitors: When doing my comp shop it was a little difficult to think of competitors who already offer this type of clothing at a similar price and toward a similar target customer. This meant it is beneficial towards my collection as this means I have a niche in the market.

When reviewing all three comp shops I decided to take a look at the reviews left by customers. When comparing all three competitors (M&S, Debenhams and H&M) it was clear to me that Marks and Spencer had the most similar target customer. However their price ranging wasn’t consistent considering the fabric used was very much similar. H&M seemed to appeal more towards the younger generation, whereas Debenhams didn’t have many products to choose from and mostly resembled nightwear or active wear.

Trend Forecasting: Using WGSN to trend forecast for 17/18 it stood out to me that basics were all in. The seasonal statement was that ‘grey undertone runs throughout the palettes, but for womenswear, is it softer.’ (WGSN | Creating Tomorrow | Trend Forecasting & Analytics, 2016) This was crucial to me when choosing my fabrics to fill in my selected cads for the collection. I wanted to use the soft grey colours/fabrics which have been forecasted to be the most popular for basic/casual wear.

When it came to my collection I wanted to find cads that were suitable for different shapes and sizes- something more broad for those who are size 6-18. I thought it was best to keep the colours neutral and plain as these outfits would be for basic, everyday wear and women wearing them would want them to be paired easily with trainers/sliders etc.

The cads chosen were the idea I got from WGSN’s explanation of basic wear for 17/18. I wanted a relaxed fitting- made for comfort and everyday wear in different situations. My fabric is mostly cotton as this would be the most comfortable to wear and also easily washable as well as having a smooth texture for plain colours.

Customer Profile: This was one of the most crucial documents created- I had to know exactly who I was targeting, where they shop and what is their budget for clothing. Since I choose working-mums I knew that I had to set my prices at a reasonable level since like most working-class mums most their money goes on the children and house essentials. I researched other competitors who reach out to a similar target audience and looked at what they are doing well with- one way I done this through was looking at the customer reviews online. This outlined what they like and don’t like and how much their willing to pay.

Concept Board: Before considering my collection I created a concept board in order to get a certain theme, colour pallet and idea of fabric. I decided on using cotton fabric for the comfort factor, I choose a natural grey colour pallet and used an image of a woman in lounge-wear in her home. I wanted to keep my concept board as simplistic as possible to symbolise what my collection would be about- simple, and easy wear for everyday. I did import some text on the board to get a verbal sense of my ideas. For example I inserted the words, ‘comfort’, ‘relaxed fitting’ and’ natural’. I feel that this describes the collection and its fabric in the best possible way and drives the idea forward.

Helen

Mini Branding Task Evaluation

Slogan, Logo & Mission Statement: When I researched slogans the main thing that stuck out to me was that they were short, striking and memorable. I looked at popular slogans such as Nike’s-’Just Do It’ and L'Oreal's- ‘Because your worth it. When taking a look at these I understood that they all had specific meanings behind to relate to their product and customer market. When creating mine I wanted to make a bold statement of what my collection was and who it was targeted towards. I decided on ‘Love My Lounge’- quick, simple and straight to the point of loungewear. This gives my target customer a clear idea of what they will be looking at and who I am actually targeting- people who need/want comfortable wear for everyday.

Before creating my logo I researched other popular logos to get inspiration. High establishments such as River Island, Chanel, Topshop and Next tended to use plain black font with no imagery just brand name. I found this was effective and memorable hence why I chose the initials of my collection to take centre stage with the collections title underneath in black, bold font.

Next’s mission statement states that they provide ‘[…] great quality and value for money with a contemporary fashion edge.’ This is the point behind my collectionmainly to provide good quality clothing for a reasonable value which is why I chose to keep to this original mission statement

LA

Lounge.Around

Collection: The finished collection of Lounge Around features 12 garments ranging from joggers, tshirts, hoodies and capes with two matching shoes. One is a slider and the other is a trainer. I particularly choose these shoes as they are easily paired throughout the year with my garments as my collection is to suit transitional seasons. I added a mini L.A on the corner of the slider to represent brand identity and make it unique to the high-street. Hardly any high-street brands do this which gives my collection a special touch and also creates that connection between brand and customer, Advertising: Finally, my advertising campaign was the last box to be ticked for my mini-branding task. I researched Next’s previous most popular campaigns and looked at their strategies. They tend to use empty backgrounds, and really neutral colours to allow the clothing to stand out. This is something I then took influence from and used a modern-neutral house interior which establishes the meaning behind my brand.

I also decided that one of the most successful ways of advertising is through social media. Next already have their own Facebook, twitter and Instagram account. However, I think that having a separate Instagram account for Lounge Around is also a good idea as it separate's the collection to the brand to a certain extent by being an account which is just for the intended customer- this makes it personal and unique compared to other stores which tend to put all of their products on the same page. River Island have done something similar with their active-wear for younger women which has been a success and I personally find it connects their niche to their targeted customer which I hope will be the same for Lounge Around. The name I choose for the Instagram account is loungearound@next. This is simple, memorable and puts the collection first. It does include Next at the end of the name so that it is not forgotten that this a collection to fit into Next’s already-established brand.

Love My Lounge...

Evaluation of Unit 1 Contextual studies What overall did you feel that you learnt throughout unit 1? Throughout the unit I have learned how the influence of fashion from the era’s as far back as the 1900’s can effect our fashion of the 21st century.

I have developed particular skills such as paying attention to key pieces and what works well for different customers. It isn’t just about what I think is the nicest dress, its about looking at the market and researching what that group of people are after. Things that should be considered are things like who are you targeting? Where do they shop? How much do they spend? What is their interests/occupation? Different types of fashions have been created and filtered through our catwalks over the centuries . What I have mostly learnt is that not everything is as fresh and original as what we may thinkeverything has an influence behind it. This could be a influence of fashion from another era, a concept behind an object a social movement such as the war or women's rights and even a whole culture.

I have realised that fashion is a part of who we are. It’s a representation of who an individual person is. Fashion allows people to experiment with ideas and visually represent who they are as a minority or individuals. Either way the clothes we choose are an insight to the person we are. Fashion designers and high-street stores allow people to come together in similarity by offering clothes to suit their needs and personality.

In advertisement and branding, why do you feel the relationship is important between the product and concept? Task 11 pointed out to me the significance between the relationship between product and concept. It showed me how easily things can become blurred and the concept is lost meaning a failure for the brand in reaching its target market and making successful sales. I took all of this into consideration when creating my own marketing campaign for my collection Lounge Around. I wanted to be like the successful adverts that was clear on things such as: brand identity, what they were producing and who their target market was. It is so important to research who your customer is and what they want in order for things to work smoothly. I will take this into my future assignments and even future career.

Overall what do you feel are your most successful pieces of work in this unit?

I feel that one of my most successful pieces of work was the 60’s era as part of the timeline task. One person stood out to me the most and her dominance on fashion inspired me. Twiggy’s outbreak into the fashion and modelling world made such a difference to our society. Twiggy was the first female model to put her name on a clothing collection and transformed fashion as we know it today. She was also one of the top paid models of all time through her influential mark on society. All of this made sense to me that fashion icons are what drive society- they are the catalysts of our everyday lives.

Task 9 was all about looking for major influences on fashion retail. I chose Instagram as my major influence, when looking into 21st century fashion it is clear how much social media plays a key part in our influences. I had never realised before how intoxicated we are (including myself) in things such as competitions on Instagram, following our celebrity icons to see what their wearing and even finding our future designs on Instagram. It’s a huge market for branding identity and market strategies. I found that top designers such as Chloe, Zac Posen and Miss Dior all take to Instagram and post their future collections/ideas to connect with the world and build on their customer numbers.

What areas do you feel you still need to develop? One of the major areas I need to develop in is Photoshop. I found it easily enough describing what cads/pieces I wanted and why I had chosen these. However I found it difficult to put these ideas into reality and make them look as professional as I wanted them to look. This software was brand new to me and I hope with practise my work will improve and start to look more like how I had imagined in my head.

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