Mago by desvan Bhaskar

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SILK LOOM OF SOURASHTRA - Technical Function's Narration

R. TôvLW SôWôVQu @ T.R. TôvLo 139/150, 2YÕ @dWaôWm, úNXm # 636 001.

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F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F

F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F -1-

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úLhPôp..., ""BkR T¥jRYoLú[ BlT¥jRôu! SmªPªÚkÕ FpXôYtû\Ùm Ltßd ùLôiÓ NmTô§d¡\ôoLs, SômRôu LxPlThÓdùLôiúP BÚd¡ú\ôm, BYàdÏ T§p ùNôpYRôp SUdÏ Iußm TVu BpûX '' Fu¡\ U]lTôuûU ùTÚmTôXô]YoL°Pm BÚlTRôp, ×§V ùRô¯p ÖhTeLs ùN[WôxhW#NêL ùSNYô°L°Pm úTônf úNoYÕ ùYÏ ùUÕYôL SPd¡\Õ. úNXjûR FÓjÕd ùLôiPôp, SmûUl úTôu\ úRYôeL Nô§ ùSNYô°Ls, ùTeLÞo ùNuß, LoSôPL @W£u ùRô¯pÖhT @±ûYl ùTtß Buß "Power-loom, Knitting, Dying, Export' Fuß NdûL úTôÓ úTôhÓd ùLôi¥ÚdL SmUYoLs "ùYiThÓ' ûLjR± úYh¥ûVúV ùNdÏUôÓ úTôp Ñt± YÚ¡u\]o. BRtÏd LôWQØm, ØÝl ùTôßl×m ùSNYô°Lú[ R®W úYß VôÚm BpûX. BkRd Ïû\ Fu U]§p ªLÜm Tô§jRôp Bl×jRLm FÝÕ¡ú\u. B§p "ùYiThÓ úYx¥" ùSnÙm R±«u TôLeL°u "ùN[WôxhWl ùTVoLs" @Ru Ae¡Xl ùTVoLs, ®[dLeLs @û]YÚm ×¬kÕ ùLôsÞmT¥ ùLôÓjÕsú[u. Bl×jRLjûR T¥lTRu êXm ùSNYô°Ls RôeLs FkR IÚ ùRô¯p ÖhT ¥l[úUô ThPm ùTt\YoLû[®P @±®p Nû[jRYoLs @pX Fu\ Sm©dûL ©\dÏm. RôrÜ U]lTôuûU @LÛm. úUÛm ×§V ÖhTeLû[ DÚYôdL DjúYLm ùTßYo. Nô§jRôp @ÕúY U¡rf£.

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M.K. SôLWô_u M.K. LiQu

_Ü° DtTj§Vô[oLs, 93, ¡ÚxQu úLô®p ùRÚ, úNXm # 636 001.

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M.K. SôLWô_u M.K. LiQu

_Ü° DtTj§Vô[oLs, 93, ¡ÚxQu úLô®p ùRÚ, úNXm # 636 001.

-6-

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RkSjWm / UùLô3 / LOOM

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®]ôY°/ùSnR-u ùNVpØû\/PROCESS OF WEAVING

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Öô-u Y¯VôL ùS° ùNuß YkÕùLôiúP úLôod¡\Õ.

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Ø¥ÙmT¥Ùm ùSNYô°«u YXÕ ûLVôp BVdLj RdLRôLÜm @ûUdLlThPÕ. ùU-Rô] Utßm §¼ùW] GtTÓm @kR ùTô4m×3ùWô®u BÝûYVô]Õ; PLPôûY BÝjÕ; PLPô#®u @Ú¡p Ds[ Dk§; ùS°ûV F§o§ûNdÏj RsÞ¡\Õ. BR]ôp ùS°«p Ds[ Öôp DÚ®f ùNuß TôÜÖô-p EÓÚ®d úLôod¡\Õ. BkR ×§V ùS°dÏ "Flying Shuttle' Fußm ùTô4m×3ùWô "Peg' Fußm ùTV¬hÓ @ûZdLlThPÕ. F°V BkR LhPûUl×, úSWjûR ªfNlTÓjRYúRôÓ, @§L Õ¦Ls RVô¬lTRtÏm DR®VÕ. ªL @LXØs[ Õ¦Lû[ ùSnY§p "ùS°' ùNÛjR BÚYo úRûYlThP ¨ûX Uô±, IÚYúW ùSnV GÕYô¡VÕ. © u , ù S N Y ô ° L [ ô p ùRôPokÕ ùRô¯pÖhTeLs, Utßm R±«p Uôt\eLÞm SôÞdÏSôs Øuú]t± Uôt\mùTtß YkÕùLôi¥Úd¡\Õ. Øu× ùN[WôxhW ùSNYô°L°u Õ¦Ls, úWôUàdÏ GtßU§ ùNnYÕ Tô§dLlThP úTôÕ, @kR ùSNYô°L°u ùTôÚ[ôRôWjûR Sm©«ÚkR Bk§V ùTôtLôX @WÑ Fu\ûZdLlThP "ÏlR úTWWÑ" YÚUô]ªu± £ûRkRÕ úTôp Be¡Xôk§p GtThP BVk§W UVUôdLp SUÕ ùSNYô°Lû[ ªL Tô§jRÕ! GtßU§ ¨uß ®hPÕ. 1760p ú_mv ao¡Ãqv FuTYo v©u²e ù_u² Fu\ BVk§WjûR Y¥YûUjRôo. ØkûRV v©u²e (Lj¨) BVk§WeLû[ ®P BÕ @§L ÖôpLû[ ØßdÏm. ùSNYô°Ls ReL°u Öôp#úRûYLû[ RûP«pXôUp ùT\ BÕ DR®VÕ. FlúTôÕm úYûX! @§Ld á-!. A]ôp ùRô¯pÖhT Øuú]t\m Bk¨ûXûV ùYÏSôs ¿¥dL ®P®pûX! Bk§Vô®p ®VôTWm ùNnÕYkR Be¡XôkûRf úNokR 'East India Co.' Sm @W£Vp ãr¨ûXûVl TôojÕ SôhûPl ©¥lT§p ùYt± LiPÕ - 11 -

BVk§W UVUôdLXôp Be¡XôkÕ ûLjR± ùSNYô°LÞm úYûX«ZkÕ ©fûNùVÓdÏm ¨ûXdÏj Rs[lThP]o. A]ôp BVk§W UV R±«úXô RVô¬l×Ls @T¬ªRUô]Rôp, Be¡ÚkÕ Õ¦ûV Yôe¡VYoLs, RtúTôÕ BeúLúV Ïû\kR ®ûXdÏ SmØPu úTôh¥ úTôhÓ ®tLj ÕYe¡]o. SUÕ Bk§V ûLjR± ùSNYô[oLs ×§V BVk§W ÖhTeLû[ @±kÕùLôs[ôUp ûLVôúXúV ùSnÕùLôi¥ÚkR]o. BR]ôo @YoL[Õ YÚUô]m Tô§jRÕ. @u²Vl ùTôÚs, Õ¦Lû[ T¡xLôWm ùNnÙm úTôWôhPØm SPkRÕ. ùRô¯p ÖhT Øuú]t\m ûLjR± ùSNYô°ûV ÑmUô ®hPôpRôú]? 1785p FhUih LôohûWh FuTYo ¿Wô® Fu´²p BVeÏm Rô²Ve¡j R±ûV Y¥YûUjRôo. ©u TYo#Ûôm ùTÚ¡VÕ. Bk§V Õ¦Lû[®P RWUôLÜm ®ûX Ïû\YôLÜm Cvh#Bk§Vô LmùT² SUdÏj RW AWm©jRÕ. A]ôp ûN]ô®p LûRúVô úY\ôL Ds[Õ. ¡.Ø. 5000 ØRp ¡.Ø. 3000 YûW«Ûm ©u ¡.Ø.1046 YûW«p @YoLs ThÓ RVô¬l©p úTôh¥ BpXôRYoL[ôLÜm, ©u] ùLô¬Vô, _lTôu, Bk§VoLs ThÓ RVô¬dLj ÕYe¡VRôp @YoLÞdÏ UÜÑ Ïû\kRRôLÜm ùR¬®d¡u\]o. BûR ®hÓ SÅ] LôXj§tÏ YÚúYôm.

@Pô ûP«hv

(1882#1950) Fu\ @ùU¬dL ùSNYô°, @YWÕ úUôú]ô¡WôKl#Ap ×Lr ùTt\Yo. ùSN®u Y¬ûNLs @pXÕ úLôoûYLs L¦R @¥lTûP«p @ûUkR @pËlWô®u Multivariate Polynominals Fu\ ãj§Wj§u @¥lTûP«p TX Y¥YeLû[ ùSN®p DÚYôd¡d Lôh¥]ôo. - 12 -

RtúTôÕ Bk§Vô DXLj§úXúV @§L ûLjR±Lû[d ùLôiPRôL, ûLjR± RVô¬l×Lû[d DÚYôdÏm SôPôL Ds[Õ. Bk§Vô®p ¡hPjRhP 4 úLô¥ ûLjR±Ls BVeÏ¡u\]. ®YNôVj§tÏ @ÓjÕ úYûXYônl× RÚm Õû\ BÕúY. Fu]Rôu ùRô¯p ÖhTm, BVk§WUVUôdLXôp Be¡XôkÕ A§dLm ùNÛjR ØVu\ôÛm, F¡l§V ""TôúWô'' ( Pharaoh ) Uu]oL°u NPXeLû[d áP SUÕ "BLj" Õ¦Rôu úTôojÕm @[®tÏ TôWmT¬Vm SmªPm BÚlTRôp SUÕ Uv-u Õ¦ÙPu Be¡XôkRôp úTôh¥«P Ø¥V®pûX. TôXméo, Uã-ThQm Õû\ØLj§p BûY GtßU§ ùNnVlThP]. ùN[WôxhWj§u ãWj SLWúUô, Y¦Lj§u úTWWNôL ®[e¡VÕ. (Bußm áP!)

( TPm : Uv-u Õ¦ ùSnÙm ùSNYô°Ls ) A]ôÛm Bk§Vô Ae¡úXVÚdÏ @¥ûUlThÓ BÚkRÕ @YoLÞdÏ NôRLUôL BÚkRÕ. Uv-u ùSNYô[oLû[j úR¥júR¥ ®WûX ùYh¥]o, ReLs ®VôTôWm SPdL! úTôh¥ûVj RLodL! - 13 -

BlTôYj§u ®û[úYô Fu]úYô, úYûX BZkR Be¡XôkÕ ûLjR± ùSNYô[oLs Be¡Xôk§u TYoÛôm ªpLû[ Rôd¡ @¯dLj ÕYe¡]o. B² @ÓjR ®`Vj§tÏf ùNpúYôm. ùTôÕYôL ùSN®tÏj úRûYVô] Öôp SôuÏ Y¯L°p ¡ûPd¡\Õ. 1) ©Wô¦, éf£L°PªÚkÕ, 2) RôYWeL°PªÚkÕ 3) RôÕdL°PªÚkÕ 4) ùThúWô-V £kùR¥d B-ÚkÕ.

©Wô¦L°u Öôp/ ANIMAL TEXTILE ©Wô¦L°u @RôYÕ Ah¥u Ø¥, IhPLj§u Ø¥, ThÓl×Ý áÓ A¡VYt±-ÚkÕ FÓdLlTÓm Öôp.

RôYW Öôp/ PLANT TEXTILE ×p, NQp, ùaml, Wx, £Np A¡V RôYW YûLL°-ÚkÕ FÓdLlTÓm Öôp.

BVk§WeL°p L«\ôLl TVuTÓ¡\Õ.

ûYdúLôp, êe¡p ÖôpLs ùRôl© RVô¬dLÜm, úReLôn Sôo ÖôpLs ª§V¥ ùNnVÜm, L«ß §¬dLÜm DTúVôLlTÓ¡\Õ.

RôÕ Öôp/ MINERAL TEXTILE @vùTPôv, Utßm TNôp SôoLs áûW úYV TVuTÓ¡u\]. ¡[ôv#KûTTo FuTÕ ®iùY° ùNpúYôÚdLô] AûP RVô¬dLl TVuTÓ¡\Õ. DúXôL Öôp, DúXôL KTô«p, DúXôL YVoLs N¬ûL RV¬dL, N¬ûL Utßm ReL AûPLs ùSnV, ATWQeLs RVô¬dL DRÜ¡u\]. - 14 -

£kùR¥d Öôp/ SYNTHETIC TEXTILE Tô-ùVvPo, @Wªh, @d¬-d, ûSXôu, vTôiùPv (ûXdWô) I-K©u, Bg´úVô, ÛYô úTôu\ûY AûPL°u YûLLs RVô¬dL DRÜ¡u\]. BkÖôpLû[ DTúVô¡jÕ ùSnÙm "ùSNÜY¬ûN' @pXÕ "ùSNÜd úLôoûY" êuß YûL. 1) NôRôWQ úLôoûY 2) Nô¥u úLôoûY 3) P®p úLôoûY 4) ×hPô úLôoûY

1) NôRôWQd úLôoûY Plain Weave NôRôWQd úLôoûY«p R²#Bu BÚ TôL ÖôpLs úUp ¸ZôL BÚdL, ""EûPÖôp'' R²«u IÚ Öô-u ¸Ým Utù\ôÚ Öô-u úUÛUôL úLôolTÕ úTôp ùRôPokÕ FpXô ÖôpLû[Ùm úUÛm ¸ÝUôL BûQlTÕ AÏm. úUp TôL Öô-û] BûQjR©u ¸rTôL Öô-û]Ùm BqYôú\ BûQjÕ úLôojÕ AûP DÚYôdÏRp.

2) Nô¥u úLôoûY Satin Weave Nô¥u úLôoûY«p R²«u EúP "EÓÖôp" SôuÏ @pXÕ @RtÏ úUtThP BûZL[ôd úLôolTÕ. IÚ Itû\ R± Öô-u úUp¸ZôL SôuÏ ÖôpLû[ ùS°«u Yô«XôLd úLôojÕ ªÚÕYô] Õ¦Lû[ DÚYôdÏm BkR YûL úLôoûY.

3) h®p úLôoûY Twill Weave R² Öô-u BWiÓ @pXÕ @RtÏ úUtThP Öô-u EúP úUp¸ZôLÜm Ùm ©u IÚ Öô-u úUp ¸ZôLÜm EûPÖôp - 15 -

ùNÛj§]ôp DVWUô] Utßm DVWm Ïû\kR T¥ @pXÕ 'T' úTôu\ @ûUl×d ùLôiP Õ¦ ¡ûPdÏm. BRtÏ DRôWQm ûNù]ô, ¥¬p, ùP²m, LôoTuûPu, hÅh, ù^o_v

4) ×hPô úLôoûY Butta Weave ×hPô FuTÕ Õ¦«p YûWLûX Y¥YeLû[ DÚYôdL, Õ¦«u BÚ JWeL°Ûm TôoPo úTôP DTúVô¡dÏm úLôoûYVôÏm. B² ùSNÜj R±«u DTLWQeLû[l TôolúTôm.

RkSjWm F]lTÓm UùLô3 (LOOM)

( TPm : úWôp#UùLô Fu\ûZdLlTÓm R±«u úRôt\m. )

( TPm : TfL¦ UùLô Fu\ûZdLlTÓm ÏhûPjR±«u úRôt\m. ) - 16 -

( TPm : ªLf£±V Ad^u R±«u úRôt\m. )

( TPm : TûZV Be¡Xôk§u ûLjR±«u úRôt\m. )

( TPm : SÅ] úWl©Vo R±«u úRôt\m. )

( TPm : TûZV TYoÛôm R±«u úRôt\m. ) - 17 -

( TPm : ûLdÏ @PdLUô] R±«u úRôt\m. )

( TPm : _lTô²V ûLjR±«u úRôt\m. )

( TPm : º]ô®u ûLjR±«u úRôt\m. )

( TPm : DVWYôd¡Xô] ùYo¥Lp R±«u úRôt\m. )

- 18 -

ùYiThÓ úYx¥jR±«u DTLWQeLs SPARES OF WHITE-SILK DHOTI-WEAVING LOOM

R¥jR FÝj§p ùN[WôxhW ThÓÖôp R±«u DTLWQeL°u ùRô¯pÖhTl ùTVoLÞm @Ru ¸Ýs[ Tj§«p @kR DTLWQj§u Ae¡Xl ùTVÚm, @qÜTLWQj§u ùNVpTôÓ, TVuTôÓm RWlThÓs[Õ. A

1) @fÑ /

ACH'CHU :

Healed Frame. The beam of loom, to segrecate the warp (or) used to place the warp during weaving. (i) Ne¡-úTôu\ Öô-ûZLû[ Õû[L[ôL GtTÓj§

Y¬ûNVôLd úLôojR êe¡p NhPm. (ii) UùLô3®p (R±) R¨-«u (TôÜ) Rôe¡. (iii) Tô®u BûZLû[ ©¬jÕd úLôojR, Tô®u BûZLû[ úUp ¸ZôL SLoj§ EûP ÖôûX úLôodL DRÜm ÖôtNhPm. @fÑ Fu\ ùNôp-tLô] Utù\ôÚ £\l×l ùTVo "SjWm'. SjWm Fu\ ùNôp-û] AWô«u ùSNÜj R± ©\kR YWXôú\ ¡ûPjÕ®Óm! @kR @[®tÏ IÚ Ød¡VUô] ùNôp.

2) @fÑ ^kRjùR /

ACH'CHU SANDATHE :

(i) Backet bend (ii) A hitch used for temporarily tying a yarn to the middle of another yarn. (iii) A yarn tying method in each of the wholes of Healed frame. (i) Õû[ Ø¥fÑ.. (ii) IÚ BûZ«û] Utù\ôÚ BûZdÏ SÓúY

RtLô-LUôL BûQdÏm Ø¥fÑ. (iii) @fÑ#®u Õû[Ls Y¯úV - 19 -

Öô-ûXLû[ ÖûZjÕ Ø¥dÏm ùNVp. ^k§3#Fu\ôp GúRàm BÚ ùTôÚhLs Nk§dÏm BPm @pXÕ LôXm. Ås#^k§3 Fu\ôp U§VØm UôûXÙm Nk§dÏm LôXm. @fÑ#^k§3 Fu\ôp @f£p ÖôtLû[ Nk§dL ûYjÕ Ø¥jRp.

3) Ah ù^ôh3YjùR /

AAT SODVATHE :

(i) Disentangle (ii) Extricate the warp-tension rope hitched on pole to roll the woven part of cloth. (i) BßdLm R[ojRp.. (ii) ùSnÕ Ø¥jR Õ¦«û] R±«u

Õôo#p Ñt\ DR®VôL R¨#«u (TôÜ ÖôpL°u) BßdLm R[ojRp.

4) @fÑ In /

ACHCHU WHY :

(i) Heald-wire of Heald frame. (i)

@fÑ#®p

Ds[,

@f£û] TX Õû[L[ôLl ©¬dÏjÕ ÖôpNhPm úTôuß ùNVpTÓm ÖôpLs.

5) @p- /

KNIT :

(i) Knit (ii) Make textiles by knitting as together yarns (or) wires into small wrinkles or folds. E.g. (KamLo alli - yarn knitting) (Pudgi alli - Wire knitting) (i) ©uà.. (ii) ÖôpLû[l ©uàYRu êXm ©u]XôûP

DÚYôdLp @pXÕ Öôp/YVoLû[ U¥jÕ @pXÕ ÑÚd¡ ©uàRp. DRô. (""Lmù[ô @p- = vùYhPo ©uà''#Öôp ©u]p) (""×h3¡ @p- = áûP ©uà'' # YVo ©u]p)

- 20 -

6) @dÚk§3 UùLô3

(i) A lesser width weaving loom (ii) Loom contains 24 to 26gate heald-frame, to segrecate 6000 fibres. (iii) Cloth widthd 19-25 inches. (i) @LXm Ïû\kR Õ¦ YûLLû[ ùSnÙm R±.. (ii) 24 ØRp

26 YûW«Xô] Õû[Ls ùLôiÓ, 6000 BûZLû[ ©¬dÏm @f£û] DûPV R±. (iii) 19 ØRp 26 Bgf @LXm ùLôiP Õ¦Lû[ ùSnÙm R±. B

7) TfL¦ UùLô3 /

BACHKANI MAGO :

(i) Frame-loom. (ii) A loom used to weave kerchief, towel or ribbon. (i) ÏhûPj R±.. (ii) ûLdÏhûP, ÕiÓ, ¬lTu úTôu\ ÕûQ

YûLLû[ ùSnÙj R±.

8) Tj3ùR3 /

BAD'DE :

(i) A cutted narrow piece of full-cloth. (ii) Piece of waste cloth in ribbon like form. (i) ÕiÓj Õ¦.. (ii) ¬lTu úTôu\ @¦V DTúVôLUt\ ÕiÓj

Õ¦.

9) ùT3h3Lô3 aôj /

BEDGAA HAATH :

(i) Lower side. (ii) Beneath side of folded newly woven fabric (i) ¸r TôLm.. (ii) ùSnR Õ¦«û] U¥jR§p ¸ZôL BÚdÏm - 21 -

Õ¦«u TôLm. (BRu F§oTôLm "^s® aôj' F]lTÓm.)

10) ùT3k3j /

BENTH :

(i) Lease. (ii) Loop knot (iii) A divider knot that seperates yarn bunches. (i) RtLô-L Ø¥fÑ.. (ii) Ñt±d LhÓm Ø¥fÑ (iii) Ï±l©hP

@[®p FiQlThP ÖôpLtû\Lû[ Ñt±d LhÓm Ø¥fÑ.

11) ùT3§3- /

BEDILI :

(i) Triangle shaped stand made of bamboo, expandable at leg-side used at the time of 'streeting'. (i) ØdúLôQ Y¥®Xô] êe¡Xôp ùNnVlThPÕ. @pÛ

©¥dÏmúTôÕ Lô-û] ®¬jÕ ¨ßjRlThÓ Tô®û]j RôeÏm.

12) ùTô4m×ùWô /

BHOMBURO :

(i) A sphere shaped wooden piece having hole to tie with rope operated by hand to move shuttle. (i) SôPô®û] Rs[ ûLVôp BÝdLlTÓm, SÓ®p Õû[ @ûUkR

L«ß ÖûZjÕd LhPlThP DÚû[dLhûP

13) ùTô3kÕ3 éh /

BONDU PUUT :

(i) Change of shedding (ii) As the warp yarn's shuttle insertion gap became wider and raised in more quantity yarns to weave a border (or) another colour yarn. (i) Y¬ûN Uôt\m. (ii) Tô®u úUp¸ZôL ©¬dLlThP ÖôpY¬ûNLs

SôPô ÖûZÙm BûPùY°ûV @§L¬jÕm, Tô®u@§L ÖôpLs - 22 -

úUpúSôd¡ SLokÕm TôoPo @pXÕ úYß ¨\ Öô-û] ùSnV GtTÓjRlTÓm @ûUl×.

14) ùTô3v¡- @q² /

BOSKILI AVNI :

(i) Pre-removal of Lump yarn while winding or processing. (i) Rôo, BÚYhPm ÑtßmúTôÕ @pXÕ ÖôtÏmúTôÕ BûZLs

IußdùLôuß £d¡dùLôiÓ ùLôjRôL ùY°YÚRp.

15) úTô3ùQ/

BOONE :

(i) Bobbin (ii) A winder around which thread can be wound. (ii) DÚû[ Öô-û] ÖôtL @pXÕ Ñt± ûYdL DRÜm DÚû[

Y¥Y DúXôLd ÏZôn..

16) ùTô3hùPô /

BOTTO :

(i) Cloth (ii) Articraft made by weaving fibres. (i) Õ¦. (ii) ÖôpLû[ ùSnÕ DÚYôdÏm LûXlùTôÚs.

17) ×3vùLô /

BUSKO :

(i) Irrecovarable waste yarn. (ii) Waste yarn lump (i) TV]tßl úTôÏm Öôp £dÏ. (ii) DTúVôLUt\ ÖôpùLôjÕ. C

18) fNôj /

CHAATH :

(i) Spindle (ii) Weft winding needle (iii) Part of winding machine (i) Öôt×d L§o.

(ii) EûPÖôp ÖôtÏm L§o. (iii) ÖôtÏm - 23 -

BVk§Wj§u IÚ @eLm.

19) ùNdáo ©3pùXô /

CHEKKUR BILLO :

(i) A bobbin having two wheels. (i) BÚ Øû]«Ûm NdLWm úTôu\ @ûUl×dùLôiP

DÚû[dLhûP.

20) fùNmùL /

CHEMKE :

(i) The remaining yarn bunch, ( Kandaa chemke, Pashoot chemke etc...)

(i) ÖôpÁRm (ii) _¬ûL ÁRm, ThÓ ÁRm ØR-V])

21) fùNpXP3m /

CHELLADAM :

(i) Trousers (n) (ii)A garment extending from the waist to the knee or ankle; covering each leg seperately.

(i) LôpNhûP (ii) BÓl©-ÚkÕ LÔdLôp YûW ¿iP BÚ

LôpLû[Ùm R²jR²úV DÓjÕm AûP.

22) £jW UùLô3 /

CHITHRA MAGO :

(i) A loom for weaving figured fabrics (i) TX®R Y¥YeLû[ ùSnYRtùLuú\ Ds[ R±.

23) £l¥ /

CHIPTI :

(i) One of the bunch of weft coil yarns (n) ( Tamil : kaNNi ) (i) EûP ÖôpLh¥u LhPôL ©¬jÕd LhPlThP§p IÚ LhÓ.

- 24 -

24) £lùPô /

CHIPTO :

(i) Cotton (ii) Cotton hank (iii) , Cotton yarn (iv) Raw cotton (v), Fabric woven from cotton fibre (vi) Thread made of cotton fibre

(i) TÚj§ (ii) TÚj§ Öôp LhÓ (iii) TÚj§ Öôp (iv) LfNôl

TÚj§ (v) TÚj§ Öô-]ôp ùSnR AûP (vi) TÚj§«]ôp ùNnR BûZLs.

25) £lPô UùLô3 /

CHIPTAA MAGO :

(i) A loom of (n) weaving cotton cloths, of 3000 to 4000 fibres (i) TÚj§ AûPLû[ ùSnÙm 3000 ØRp 4000 BûZLs YûW

ùLôiP R±.

26) £Õ3W /

CHIDURA :

(i) A thick place in even yarn (ii) Extended yarn (iii) A extra growth of find yarn which should be removed while weaving (because of not able to pass in reed)

(i) ºWô] R¥Uu ùLôiP BûZ«p TÚjR TÏ§. (ii) R]Õ

L]jûR®P ùY°úV ÕÚj§d ùLôi¥ÚdÏm BûZlTÏ§ (iii) ùSnÙm úTôÕ BlTÏ§ ºWôdLlThÓ ÕÚj§V TôLm úSo ùNnVlTÓm. Gù]²p ùTô2u²«p @kR BûZ ÖûZVôUp @ßkÕ®Óm.

27) ùNôLôn /

CHOKAAI :

(i) Shirt (ii) A garment worn on the upper half of the body. (i) NhûP. (ii) DP-u úUpTô§«p @¦VlTÓm AûP.

28) ÑhÓ Lô3h /

CHUTTU GAAT : - 25 -

(i) Loop Knot (ii) Any of various knots used to make a fixed loop in a yarn or rope

(i) Ñt±d LhÓm Ø¥fÑ. (ii) Öôp @pXÕ L«t±û] Yû[Vm

úTôXôdÏm Ø¥fÑ.

29) ÑhÓ Ys¥ /

CHUTTU VALTI :

(i) Warp-tensioner guide (n) which resides end of warp (i) ¿[Yôd¡Xô] TôÜ ÖôpLû[ ¿h¥VÕ úTôL ÁRm Bßd¡d

Lh¥«ÚdÏm R¥.

30) £Ï3Wô Ys¥ /

CHIGURAA VALTI :

(i) Chiguraa vaLti - Long flexible stick. (i) ¿[Uô] Ntú\ Yû[RuûU ùLôiP R¥.

31) ÑhÓ ùR4WjùR

/ CHUTTU DHERATHE :

(i) A after Warp re-arrangment process - usually done by two persons as to extens warp to continue the weaving work.

(i) R¨«û] (Tô®u) ¿h¥V ÑUôo GZ¥ ÕôWØs[ "ÑvÕôo

Lô2m×3' YûW ¿h¥V ©u]o, BÚYWôp ¿h¥V TôLj§Ûs[ Tô®u BûZL°p Ds[ Ïû\Lû[ ¿dÏm ùNVpØû\. D

32) úR3h3 Lô3h /

DAY'ID GAAT :

(i) Half hitch (ii) A knot used to fasten a rope temporarily to an object; usually tied double.

(i) Iu\ûW Ø¥fÑ (ii) @®rdL F°RôL RtLô-LUôL IÚ - 26 -

ùTôÚÞPu BûQjÕ Ø¥dLlTÓm Ø¥fÑ. ùTôÕYôL BÚ Ø¥fNôL BÚdÏm.

33) ùR4ùPô3 /

DHE'DO :

(i) Raw Hank after doubling (ii) A coil of yarn of particular length (iii) A make or product by rolling yarn

(i) BÚBûZLû[ BûQjR LfNôÖôtLhÓ (ii) Ï±l©hP @[Ü

R¥Uàm ¿[Øm ùLôiP ÖôtLhÓ (iii) Öô-ûZLû[ BûQjÕf ùNnVlTÓm ÖôtLhÓ

34) ùR4Pô3 ùW;ùPô /

DHE'DAA REH'TO :

(i) Hank winding machine (ii) A machine used to produce doubling yarn.

(i) LfNôÖôtLhÓ DÚYôdÏm BVk§Wm. (ii) BÚ Itû\ BûZLû[

J¬ûZVôL AdÏm LÚ®.

35) úR4h3 /

DHAY'ID :

(i) Plain border (i) YûWùTôÚ[t\ NôRôWQ Õ¦«u LûW.

36) ùRô4Y§ /

DHOTI :

(i) A long loincloth worn by Hindumen (i) BkÕ APYoL[ôp

@¦VlTÓm ¿[ BÓlTôûP.

37) úRô3o /

DOOR :

(i) Rope, Yarn in Thickest (i) L«ß. ÖôpL°p R¥jRÕ.

38) ùRô3ùWô /

DORO :

- 27 -

(i) Twisted rope of medium thickness, (ii) fibre (iii) Velvet nap (i) ØßdúLt±V SÓjRW R¥U]ô] L«tßdÏm, ÖôÛdÏm

BûPlThP R¥Uàs[ Öôp. (ii) BûZ (iii) Øû]«p ÏgNm Lh¥ @XeL¬dLlThP Lôl×d L«ß.

39) ùRô3¬ /

DORI

(i) Thread (ii) A fine cord of twisted fibres used to sweing, weaving and tieing.

(i) Öôp. (ii) ûRdL, Ø¥dL, ùSnV DRÜm ºWô] Öôp.

40) ùRô3¬ Ï3sù[ /

DORI GULLE

(i) Skein (ii) Coil of thread (iii) Nap (i) ÖôpLiÓ. (ii) YhPY¥Yj§p ÑÚh¥ DVoj§V ÖôpùRôPo. (iii) ªÚÕYô] ÖôtùLôjÕ. E

41) CùQ /

EENE

(i) Dent (ii) An measured and estimated consequence gate of reed in which yarn seperated and inserted, (iii) Hole (iv) Gap between two sticks of comb of loom

(i) ÏßdÏmÏf£.

(ii) ùTôu²#«p Ds[ IúW @[Yô]

DVWØm úRûYVô] Fi¦dûL«Ûm Ds[ ÖûZYônL°u Y¯úV Öô-ûZLs ©¬dLlThÓ ÖûZdÏm Yô«p. (iii) Õû[. ùTôu²#«u BÚ Õû[LÞdÏ BûPúV Ds[ BûPùY°. G - 28 -

42) ùL_m /

GE'JAM

(i) Measure of length (ii) Yard (iii) A unit of length equal to 3 feet 91.44 cms.

(i) ¿[j§u @[ÅÓ. (ii) L_m. (iii) 3 @¥ @pXÕ 91.44 ùNu¥

ÁhPo ¿[j§u @[Üd Ï±ÂÓ..

43) L4ùP/L3ùP3 /

GHATE/GADE

(i) A bunch (ii) Bunch of yarns divided for weaving in loom (i) IÚ ¿sùLôjÕ. (ii) ¿[dùLôjRôLl ©¬dLlThÓ BûPùY°

®hÓ SLoj§ ûYdLlThP BûZL°p IÚ ùLôjÕ.

45) L4Pôh /

GHATAAT

(i) Tight (ii) Tight position, Emergency (iii) Juncture (iv) The shape or manner in which yarns come together and a connection is made (E.g.)“ Taat katook’ko kabni furo’rin bheLe ghataadum katees - There is no border to cut and finish the woven cloth “

(i) ùSÚdLm (ii) ùSÚdLUô] ¨ûX L¥]Uô] ãr¨ûX TôÜ

Öô-ûZL°u Bß§ YûW ùSnR ©\Ï, Õ¦«û] éoj§ ùNnÕ @ßjÕ FÓdL Ø¥VôUp R®dÏm ùSÚdL¥ ¨ûX. (DRô.) ""Rôj LúPôjùLô L©3¨ ×2úWô¬u, ùT4s° L4PôÓm LúPv.''

46) ¡3ùPô /

GHITO

(i) Line (ii) Bunch line. (i) Y¬ (ii) Ltû\ Y¬L[ôLf ùNpÛm Tô®u Öôp IÚ Y¬ûN.

47) ¡3uPôp /

GINTAAL : - 29 -

(I) A 4 ply yarn (II) A unwanted yarn (n)

(i) Sô-ûZ (ii) Sô-ûZL[ôLf ùNpÛm úRûYVt\ Öôp.

48) úLô3ùS /

GONE

(i) Jute (ii) Jute bag

49) Lô3h /

(i) NQp (ii) NQp ûT / êhûP

GAAT :

(i) Knot

(i) Ø¥fÑ

50) ùL4h¥ éh /

GHETTI PUUT :

(i) Normal shedding (n) of handloom warp

(i) NôRôWQ BûZd úLôol× (@) ùTôÕYôL Õ¦L°p

ùTÚmTôXô] BPeL°p YÚm úLôol×.

51) ùL4¥ ®k¨ /

GHEDI VINNI :

(i) Thick weave (ii) Force beat on handloom articraft.

(i) ùSÚdLUôL BûZ úLôojÕ ùSnRp (ii) EûP ÖôûX @Ýj§

ùSÚd¡ ùSnRp

52) úLô3kÕ3 /

GOONDU :

(i) Gum (ii) Gum used to apply on yarns.

(i) TûN/úLôkÕ (ii) Öô-p RP® TWlTlTÓm TûN/úLôkÕ.

53) á4h3 / ùR2ùW á4h3 /

GHOOD :

(i) Cocoon (ii) Silky envelope spun by the larvae of many insects - 30 -

(i) ThÓd áÓ (ii) ThÓl ×Ý®û] Dsú[ ûYjÕl TôÕLôdÏm

ªÚÕYô] áÓ. H

54) aôj UùLô3 /

HAATH MAGO :

(i) Hand-loom (ii) A manual loom powered by hand

(i) ûLjR± (ii) ûL«]ôp U²R Nd§Vôp ùSnVlTÓm R±.

55) ¶p¡3¦ /

HILGINI :

(i) A hanger / hook (ii) A thin iron-rod bended each end used as hanger.

(i) ùLôd¡ (ii) BÚ×\Øm Yû[dLlThÓ Uôh¥ úTôuß

DTúVô¡LlTÓm ùLôd¡.

56) aþp /

HUUL :

(i) Rotate (ii) Wind (iii) Spool (i) ÑZtß (ii) Öôt (iii) ÑZJ

57) _dLôoÓ /

JAKKAARD :

(i) Jacquard (ii) A loom with an attachment for forming openings for the passage of the shuttle between the warp threads; used in weaving figured fabrics

(i) _dLôoÓ (ii) Õ¦«p Y¥YeLs, J®VeLs, édLs úTôu\

DÚYeLû[ ùSnV, R±«p BûQdLlTÓm LÚ®.

58) _¬ /

JARI : - 31 -

(i) Jari (ii) A gold plated yarn. (iii) Metal plated yarn.

(i) _¬ (ii) ReL ØXômé£V BûZLs. (iii) DúXôL ØXôm é£V

BûZLs.

59) _q° /

JAVLI :

(i) Textile (i) _Ü°

60) ú_ôd3 /

JOOG :

(i) A knot of loom (ii) A knot repeated on every 3 yard out of 41 yards.

(i) TôÜ ÖôpL°p úTôPlTÓm Ø¥fÑ.

ùUôjR 41 ùL_ ¿[

Tô®p IqùYôÚ 3 ùL_j§tÏm úTôPlTÓm Ø¥fÑ.

61) ù_mL[m UùLô3 /

JEMKALAM MAGO :

(i) JemkaLoom mago - Carpet loom (ii) A loom for weaving carpeting

(i) NØdLô[j R± (ii) NØdLô[eLû[ ùSnÙm R±. K

62) LiùPô3 /

KANDO :

(i) KaNdo - Pirn A small hallow piece made on wood (or) plastic

used to wound the weft on loom

(i) RôodÏf£ (ii) SÓ®p Õû[Ùs[ SôQp @pXÕ

©[ôv¥d¡]ôp DÚYô]; EûP ÖôûX Rôe¡; SôPô®p BûQjÕ; TôÜ ÖôpL°p úLôodL DRÜm LÚ®. - 32 -

63) LiPô3 ùW;ùPô /

KANDAA RHETO :

(i) Weft winding machine (ii) A machine used to fill pirn from weft yarn-coil

(i) EûPÖôp ÖôtÏm BVk§Wm. (ii) EûP ÖôûX RôodÏf£«p

ÖôtL DRÜm WôhûP.

64) LiPô3 Yôj /

KANDAA VAATH :

(i) Jari-thread (ii) Coil of gold-coated thread

(i) N¬ûL §¬. (ii) §¬úTôuß AdLlThP N¬ûL ÖôpLs.

65) Lm¥3 /

KAMDI :

(i) Lease rod (ii) A regulating stick (iii) A pair of small plain wodden stick across the warp between the Healed frame and wounded warp beam. Used to take lease.

(i) Rôe¡j R¥.. (ii) ÖôpLû[ Y¬ûN Uô\ôUp BÝjÕl©¥dÏm

Ïf£. ùSNYô°«u @Ú¡Ûs[ @fÑ#®tÏm @ÚjR Øû]«p Ds[ DÓúLôp Ys¥dÏm BûPúV R¨# (TôÜ) ÖôpLs Iuú\ôùPôuß LXkÕ®PôUp BÝjÕl ©¥dÏm IÚ ú_ô¥ Ïf£ @pXÕ R¥.

66) Lév /

KAPUUS :

(i) Cotton (ii) Raw-cotton (iii) Soft silky fibres from cotton plants in their raw state

(i) TÚj§/ TgÑ.. (ii) LfNôl TgÑ ªÚÕYô] SôoúTôu BXYm

TgÑ/TÚj§ TgÑ / TgÑ BûZjÕdÏLs.

67) Lôv /

KAAS : - 33 -

(i) A smooth edged metal plate of oval shaped to rub on cloth while weaving

(i) ùSnÕùLôi¥ÚdÏm Õ¦«u úUp úRndL DRÜm ØhûP

Y¥Y DúXôLj RLÓ.

68) ùLm©3 /

KEMBI :

(i) Cross-border of handloom cloth

(i) ùSnÙm Õ¦«u ÏßdLôLl úTôPlTÓm TôoPo.

69) ùLdÏ /

KEKKU :

(i) Gap (ii) Gap between two things (E.g. “Kekku sode Veen”)

(i) BûPùY° (ii) Õ¦«p IÚ EûP ÖôÛdÏm @ÓjR EûP

ÖôÛdÏm BûPlThP BûPùY° (DRô. ùLdÏ ù^ô¥3 Åu).

70) Lj¨ /

KATHNI :

(i) Spinning (ii) Creating thread from raw-cotton (or) raw silk

(i) Öôt\p (ii) LfNô TÚj§ @pXÕ LfN ThÓ Öôp DÚYôdLp.

71) Ll3¨ /

KABNI :

(i) Setting lease (ii) Margin (iii) A margin part of cloth (iv) An extra portion of warp which is not weaved

(i) Rôe¡ BûZLs (ii) Øu²ûPùY° Õ¦«u Øu²ûPùY°

ùSnVlThP Õ¦«u Bß§«p Ds[ TôÜ ÖôpL°p EûP Öôp úLôodLôUp ®PlThÓ Rôe¡L[ôL ùNVpTÓm BûZLs.

72) ùLô2s¥ /

KHOLTI : - 34 -

(i) Pocket (ii) Small pouch attached with garment for carrying small articles.

(i) ûT (ii) AûP«p BûQdLlThÓ DÚYôdLlTÓm

£ßùTôÚhLû[ ûYdL DRÜm ÕiÓl ûT..

73) ùLôSô Lô3h /

KONAA GAAT :

(i) Slip knot (ii) A knot at the end of a cord (or) rope that can slip long the cord (or) rope around which it is made. (iii) A knot that prevents a yarn or rope from passing through a hole.

(i) SÝÜ Ø¥fÑ (ii) Öôp @pXÕ L«t±u Bß§«p @kR

ÖôûXúV DTúVô¡jÕl úTôPlTÓm SÝÜ Ø¥fÑ

(iii) Õû[«u

Y¯VôL Öôp ÖûZkÕ Õû[«u @ÓjR TdLj§tÏ SÝ®f ùNpXUp RÓdÏm Ø¥fÑ.

74) Ïh3ª¬ /

KUDMIRI :

(i) Slubs & Knots (ii) Soft lump (or) unevenness of yarn; eigher an imperfection or created by design

(i) ùLôiûP Ø¥fÑ & ÑÚiP Ø¥fÑ (ii) @Lt\lTP úYi¥

ªÚÕYô] ÑÚiP Ø¥fÑ BVtûLVôLúYô, BÚ ÖôpLû[ úNojÕ Ø¥f£ÓYRôúXô DÚYôÏm ùLôiûP Ø¥fÑ.

74) Ïgf /

KUNCH :

(i) Brush, used to apply sizing-solution on jari or border yarns.

(i) _¬ @pXÕ ÖôpL°u úUp Lg£,úLôkÕ RPY DRÜm ×ÚÑ L

75) Xd3ùL3 /

LAGGE :

- 35 -

(i) Bunch (ii) A bunch of yarn or anything, normally 200 yarns in dhoti loom.

(i) ùLôjÕ (ii) 200 BûZLs úNokR úYx¥ ùSnÙm Tô®p

Ds[ ¿[Yôd¡Xô] ÖôtùLôjÕ.

76) Xôdv ùT¥ /

LOCKS PETI :

(i) A designer tool to create border designs on handloom cloths (Now outdated because of jacquard)

(i) Õ¦«p Y¥YeLs ùLôQW R±«p BûQdLlTÓm LÚ®

(RtLôXj§p BûR®P @§L TVuTôÓ ùLôiP _dLôoÓ YkÕ®hPRôp DTúVôLj§p BpûX)

77) Ûe¡3 /

LUNGI :

(i) A long piece of brightly coloured cloth (cotton or silk) used as clothing (as Skirt or loincloth or sash etc.) in India, Pak. Burma

(i) T°fùNu\ @Po¨\Øs[ YiQYiQ BÓlTôûP. M

78) UùLô3 /

MAGO :

(i) Loom (ii) A textile machine for weaving yarn into a textile

(i) R± (ii) Öô-ûZLû[ Õ¦VôL ùSnÙm BVk§Wm. BÕ IÚ

LôWQl ùTVo. R±ûV ùSnTYúW ØRXô°VôL BÚkRôp @kR R±dÏ "RkSjWm' F]Üm á-dLôWWôL BÚkRôp "UúLô3jùR RkSjWm' F]Üm ùTVo. BlùTVo Sô[ûP®p "UùLô3' F]f ÑÚe¡VÕ. UùLô3 Fu\ ùN[WôxhWf ùNôpÛdÏ "úLs' Fuß ùTôÚs. @RôYÕ "®u§¡ Ë UúLô3júRv UùLô3 # "ùSnÕ®hÓl úTôn á-ûVd úLhTúR UùLô3 # Fuß áßYo ùT¬úVôo. ùRÛe¡p "UdLm' (Mag'gam) - 36 -

F]Üm Lu]Pj§p "UdLô" (Mag'gaa) F]Üm R± ùTVo ùTß¡\Õ. "R±' Fu\ RªrlùTVo "RkSjWm' FuTRu UÚÜf ùNôpXôL BÚdLXôm. LôXlúTôd¡p "UùLô3' Fu\ ùN[WôxhWf ùNôpúX @û]YWôÛm RtúTôÕ R±ûVd Ï±dL DTúVô¡dLlTÓ¡\Õ

79) Ud3ùLWôu /

MAG'KERAAN :

(i) Weavers (ii) Daily wage earners by weaving

(i) ùSNYô[oLs (ii) Õ¦Lû[ ùSnÕ §]dá- ùTßTYoLs.

80) Uôs /

MAAL

(i) Belt, warp (n) A twisted thick endless rope, “ Rheto firvok’ko mal dore taag - Fix the belt to operate the machine “

(i) ùTph (ii) Öô-]ôp A] ùTph.

81) ULô3 UÞd3 /

MAAGAAL MALU

(i) Loom knot (i) ùTph (ii) "R± Ø¥fÑ' Fu\ ùTVWôp @±VlTÓm

IÚ YûL Ø¥fÑ.

83) ULô3 ùaôsùPô /

MAGAA HOLTO

(i) Weaver’s seat (n) A seat where a weaver sat to weave.

(i) ùSNYô° @U¬Pm (ii) ùSNYô° @UokÕ ùSnÙm AN]m.

82) Øj3§3 /

MUDDI

(i) Ring (ii) Ringlet (iii) A ring (or) small pile which seperates and protect the pedals by dashing in loom.

(i) úUô§Wm (ii) úUô§W Yû[Vm (iii) ùSNYô°«u Lôp éh#L[ - 37 -

Iuú\ôùPôuß úUôRôUp RÓl× úTôp ùNVpTÓm úUô§W Yû[Vm úTôu\ £ß ÏZôn.

82) Ø;ùPô3 /

MUH'DO

(i) A short and breadth wooden piece, used to winding purpose of thread (E.g. The’re hu’lot’ko upa’yog ho’re mh’udo )

(i) BÚYhPj§p Öôp ÖôtL DRÜm SÓ®p Õû[ÙûPV NÕW

Y¥®Xô] ÑUôo IÚ @¥ DVW @ûW @¥ @LXd LhûP

83) êWô /

MOORA

(i) A measurement name of Length (ii) One armfull distance, A size of elbowfull ( Tamil : MuLam )

(i) ¿[j§û] @[dÏm @[ÅhÓl ùTVo (ii) ØZm Fuß á\lTÓm

®Wp Ö²«-ÚkÕ ØZeûL YûW Ds[ ¿[ @[Ü N

84) SjWm /

NATHRAM

(i) Frame (n) Warp-holding frame in loom.

(i) NhPm. (ii) TôÜ ÖôpLû[j RôeÏm "In' Öô-ûZLû[

Õû[L[ôLd ùLôiP @fÑ#Pu á¥V TôÜfNhPm.

84) SjWm Rh3² /

NATHRAM THADNI

(i) A process called 'Street' warp OR 'streeting'

(i) Tô®û] @Ru @fÑ#DPu ùT§-«p ¶p¡3¦Vôp

Uôh¥ûYjÕ ùUôjR ùL_ ¿[j§tÏm ØÝÕUôL ¿h¥ @ûPVô[dÏ±ÂÓ BÓRp, @ßkR BûZLû[ ©ûQjRp ØR-V - 38 -

ùNVpØû\Lû[f ùNnÕ ºWôdLp.

85) SôW/

NAARA

(i) Art-silk yarn (ii) Atrificial silk raw yarn (n)

(i) SôolThÓ (ii) ùNVtûLlThÓ LfNôÖôp

86) ùS°/

NELI

(i) Shuttle (ii) A shuttle containing pirn or bobbin that passes the weft thread between the warp threads (n)

(i) SôPô (ii) RôodÏf£ûV Ru]LjúR ùLôiÓ EûP ÖôpLû[

TôÜ ÖôpL°p úLôodÏm LÚ®. P

87) úTw/

PAGE

(i) Sizing-solution (ii) A glutionous material used to fill pores in surfaces (or) to stiffen fabric

(i) Lg£ (ii) Õ¦ûV ùUôPùUôPlTôdÏm §WYm.

88) Tpép XÏùPô3/

PALPUL LAGODO

(i) Temple, Selvedge gripper (ii) A set of wodden piece having small pins in one edge and connetted with other edge

(i) Õ¦dLûW Bßd¡ (ii) BÚ ÕiÓL[ôL Ds[ Ö²«p

E£Lû[d ùLôiP ùSnÕùLôi¥ÚdÏm Õ¦«u LûWûV ÏjRlThÓ Bßd¡l ©¥dÏm LhûP.

89) T`ýj /

PASHOOT

- 39 -

(i) Silk (ii) Bleached silk (iii) A fabric made from fine threads by certain insect’s larvae (n)

(i) ThÓ (ii) NXûY ùNnR ThÓÖôp (iii) ThÓÖô-]ôp DÚYô¡V

AûP.

90) TgûNùXô /

PANCHAILO

(i) A leg pedal of handloom to operate the healed frames

(i) @fÑ#®û] úUp#¸ZôL SLojR DRÜm Lôp ùTPp/éhÓ.

91) T2[ô Ys¥ /

PHALAA VALTI

(i) A rod that support as tensioner of cloth-roller and used to rool woven fabric on cloth-roller.

(i) Õôo#Bp Õ¦«û] Ñt\ DRÜm, ùSnÕùLôi¥ÚdÏm

Õ¦«û] Bßd¡l ©¥jÕj RôeÏm R¥.

92) úTh In /

PAYT WHY

(i) Mail-eye wire (n) of handloom

(i) Õ¦«p LûWúTôP IÕdLlThÓs[ ÖôpLû[ Ru²ûPúV

Rôe¡f ùNÛjÕm Õû[ Öôp.

93) T`ýj LiùPô3 /

PASHUUT KANDO

(i) Silk yarn winding pirn (n) Filled pirn of silk yarn

(i) ThÓ_¬ûL @pXÕ ThÓÖôp ÖôtLlThP RôodÏf£.

94) úTh ùUôs¥

/ PAYT MOLTI

(i) Dead-weight (n) used for the border forming yarns to give - 40 -

tension.

(i) LûW F]lTÓm TôoPo ¥ûNuLû[l úTôÓm BûZLû[

BÝjÕl ©¥dÏm FûP.

95) T¥ /

PATI

(i) Woof (n) Weft, (ii) The yarn woven acoss the warp-yarn in weaving

(i) EûP (ii) Tô®u ¿[YôdÏ ÖôpLÞdÏ EPôLf ùNpÛm

EûPÖôp#LhÓ.

96) úTh /

PAY'T

(i) Border of cloth, (ii) Border design

(i) Õ¦«u LûW (ii) @Z¡V Y¥YeL[ôp A] Õ¦dLûW.

97) Às /

PEEL

(i) Twist (ii) '' PeeL Taag - Make Strand “ Vegulo vegulo doreenug peel tagi oNtay dori-ga kerni - Line consisting of a complex of fibers or filaments that are twisted together to form a thread or a rope or a cable “

(i) ØßdÏ (ii) ÖôûX ØßdúLtßRp @pXÕ úYß úY\ôL

Ds[ ÖôpLû[ Øßd¡ IúW ÖôXôL, L«\ôL AdÏRp. (DRô) ""ùYd[ ùYd[L3 ùR3v]ô ú^jùR ùRô3Ãàd Às R¡3 IiúP ùRô3¬L3 ùLo²''

98) T2° /

PHALI

(i) Part of winding-swift (n) A inner supporting bamboo piece - 41 -

of swifter.

(i) BÚYhPj§u IÚ TôLm. (ii) BÚYhPj§u Dsú[ úUÛs[

Ïf£Lû[ Rôe¡«ÚdÏm êe¡p Ïf£.

99) T2ù[ô /

PHALO

(i) A distance of woven cloth which can rolled on cloth-roller

(i) Õôo#Bp Ñt\lTÓm ùSnVlThP Õ¦«u ¿[m.

100) T2[ô Ys¥ /

PHALAA VALTI

(i) Cloth winding rod of handloom (n)

(i) Õôo#H ÑZt± Õôo#Bp Õ¦ûV Ñt±ûYdL DRÜm Lm×.

101) ùTô2i¦ /

PHONNI

(i) Segrecating, Streeting. (i) @pÛ ©¥jRp

102) ©gù_ /

PINJE

(i) Lea (ii) A unit of length of thread or yarn.

(i) ÕiÓÖôp (ii) IÚÏ±l©hP ¿[Øs[ ÖôpLs.

103) ùTôùWô /

PORO

(i) Floting in weft (not firmly connected yarn)

(i) EûP«p @pXÕ EûP Öôp Õi¥jÕl úTôRp. (ii) BR]ôp

ùSnÙm Õ¦«p £ß JhûP DÚYôRp.

104) ùTôj§ /

POTHI

(i) Winding-swift (n) A swifter used to roll-on yarn - 42 -

(i) BÚYhPm. (ii) ÖôpLû[ RuúUp ÖôtÏm ùTôj§ F]lTÓm

BÚYhPm.

105) ùTôùWô /

PORO

(i) Interlace of shedding (A upper-line or down-line yarns of a weaving loom)

(i) TôÜÖô-u úUp¸r Y¬ûN ÖôpLs. (ii) úUpY¬ûNVôLÜm

¸rY¬ûNVôLÜm ©¬dLlThP TôÜ ÖôpL.s.

106) ùTôojùRô /

PORTHO

(i) Swift (ii) A swifter-wheel machine to produce warp rotating in sideways

(i) ùT¬VBÚYhPm. (ii) ÖôtÏm ùT¬V BÚYhPm.

107) ùTôojR /

PORTHA

(i) Swift (ii) A swifter-wheel machine to produce warp rotating in sideways

(i) WôhûP. (ii) TÓdûL YNj§p BPYXUôLf Ñtßm WôhûP.

108) éh /

POOT

(i) Pedal of Palm / Foot / Part (ii) Step (iii) Single side pedal

(i) Ds[eLôp, Ds[eLôpª§ (ii) IÚ TdLj§V Lôpª§. R

109) ùWe¡3¨ /

RENGINI

- 43 -

(i) Dyeing (ii) Coloring the yarn with dye. (iii) With usually soluble substance for coluring yarns

(i) N ô V ª Ó R p (ii) N ô V j R ô p Ö ô - p ¨ \ ú U t ß R p .

YiQlùTô¥Lû[d ùLôiÓ LûWNûX DÚYôd¡ Öô-p YiQeLs GtßRp.

110) ¬jR LiùPô3 / (i) Empty pirn

RITHA KANDO

(i) ùYtß RôodÏf£ / Öôp ÖôtLôR ùYtß

RôodÏf£.

111) Úk§3 /

RUNDI

(i) Width (n) The extent of something from side to side

(i) @LXm ùTôÚ°u BPYX Øû]LÞdÏ BûPlThP ÕôWm.

112) Úk§3 UùLô3 /

RUNDI MAGO

(i) A loom of widthed broder (n) weaving cloths, having 34 to 36 ghate (parts) with 5000 (or) 6000 fibres.

(i) @§L @LXj R±. 5000 ØRp 6000 BûZLs ùLôiPÕm 34

ØRp 36 Ltû\L[ôLl ©¬dLlThP Tô®û]d ùLôiPÕUô] @§L @LXØs[ Õ¦Lû[ ùSnÙm R±. S

113) ^[ôd3 /

SALAAG

(i) Connecting-rod (n) A handloom tool New Warp mending.

(i) BÝûY Lm©Ls / RôeÏ Lm©Ls ©u²V Lm©Ls

114) ^s® aôj /

SALVI HAATH - 44 -

(i) An upper and first visible part of folded and finished cloth.

(i) U¥jR Õ¦«p, YôeÏúYô¬u Li¦p TÓmT¥ U¥dLlTÓm,

LiLYo úUpTôLj Õ¦.

115) ^k§3 /

SANDI

(i) Make meet-knot process (ii) Meeting point “ Ach’um sande - Knot with either point “

(i) @f£#p Õû[L°u Y¯úV BÚTdL ÖôpLû[ BûQjÕd

LhÓ (ii) Nk§dÏm ×s° @pXÕ Ø¥fÑ @pXÕ BPm.

116) ^qùXô /

SAREE

(i) Saree, A dress worn primarily by Hindu women; consists of several yards (6 yards or 9 yards) of light material that is draped around the body

(i) úNûX (ii) BkÕl ùTiLs @¦Ùm ØRuûUVô] úUXôûP.

AßØRp IuTÕ ùL_eLs ùLôiP FûPÏû\kR DPûXf Ñt± @¦Ùm AûP.

117) ù^Ï3ùXô /

SEGULO

(i) Warp-tensioner guide

(i) DÓúLô-p Ds[ Lô¥. (ii) Tô®û] ùSNYô°«u

F§oØû]«p BÝjÕdLhÓm DÓ3úLô3-p Ds[ Lô¥.

118) ù^Ï3Xô ùRô3¬ /

SEGULAA DORI

(i) Warp tensioner rope

(i) TôÜÖô-û] BÝjÕl ©¥dÏm Lm¥, DÓúLô-û] BÝjÕd - 45 -

LhÓm L«ß./Lô¥#Öôp.

119) ù^Üs /

SEVUL

(i) Supporting margin of cloth, Raw edge, Selvedge (n) The edge of a fabric that is woven so that it will not ravel (or) fray

(i) ARôW Øk§.

Õ¦«u BPÕ, YXÕ Ö²«p ARôWUôL BÚdÏm £±V @[®Xô] Dß§ùLôiP Öôp ùRôÏl×.

120) ³q¨ UùLô /

SIVNI MAGO

(i) Side-border loom (ii) Extra weft in a pattern to give a design towards the body of fabric from selvedge.

(i) ÏßdÏ Øk§ R±. (ii) ÏßdLôL BÓm TôoPoLû[ £\lTôL

Õ¦«p ùSnÙm R²jÕYm ùLôiP R±.

121) ³® L2h2² /

SIVI KHAD'NI

(i) Side-border of cloth which is woven seperately and not woven with main cloth

(i) ÏßdÏ TôoPoLû[, YXÕ TdLm R²VôLÜm BPÕ TdLm

R²VôLÜm ùSnRp. (ùTôÕYôL IúW NUVj§p ùSnVlTÓm.)

122) ^qXô UùLô3 /

SAVLAA MAGO

(i) A loom to weave Sarees. A common name of all vaeirty of Saree weaving looms.

(i) úNûX ùSnÙm R±.

TXWL úNûX ùSnÙm R±L°u

ùTôÕlùTVo.

- 46 -

123) ù^ôu]ô LiùPô3 /

SONNA KANDO

(i) Jari (ii) Gold coated yarn (iii) Gold coated yarn woven on saree or dhoti

(i) _¬ûL (ii) ReL ØXôm é£V Öôp (iii) DúXôL ØXôm é£V

úYx¥, úNûXL°p ùSnÙm Öô-ûZLs. T

124) R¨ /

TANI

(i) Warp (ii) Yarn arranged lengthways on a loom and crossed by the weft

Öô-ûZLs. ÏßdÏ Yôd¡Xô] BûZLû[l úLôolTRôp Õ¦VôL Uôß¡\Õ.

125) Rôd3 /

TAAG

(i) Yarn (ii) Fibre (i) Öôp (ii) Sôo úTôu\ BûZ

126) Rôj /

TAATH

(i) Processed-warp which is ready for weave (n)

(i) ùSnV RVôWôL BÚdÏm TôÜ.

127) PLPô /

TAKATA

(i) Picker (n) A small ‘ Reverse of T ‘ shaped device used to beat the shuttle of loom

- 47 -

(i) SôPôûYf (ùS°) ùNÛjR DRÜm Vk§W#SjWªtÏs BP YX

128) RSô XÏ3ùPô /

THA'NAA LAGUDO

(i) A wodden stick used to process warp (n)

(i) úLôWô / TôÜ ÖôpLû[ TR²Óm Lm×.

129) R¨ Fo¨ /

THA'NI ERNI

(i) Warp clearing (i) One kind of Streeting process to Warp clearing (Another kind is NATHRAM THADNI)

(i) TôÜ ºWôdLp / ùSnV ºWûUjRp. (@fÑ#®p TôÜ ÖôpLs

130) RSô ùW;ùPô /

THA'NAA REH'TO

(i) Warping machine (ii) A machine used to create warp yarns of handloom, A machine used to arrange the yarn in a particular form.

DRÜm BVk§Wm. (ii) Tô®û] DÚYôdÏm BVk§Wm.

131) RkSjWm /

THAN'NATHRAM

(i) Loom (Sanskrit : Thanthram ) A machine used to interlace the warp and weft to produce cloth.

- 48 -

(i) R±. TôÜ, EûP ÖôpLû[d úLôojÕ Õ¦Lû[ DÚYôdLl

TVuTÓm BVk§Wm. ( R¨ + SjWm = R¨ RôeÏm SjWm )Tô®û] (R¨) RôeÏm Õû[Ls ùLôiP NhPm SjWm F]lTÓm. B§p R¨ F]lTÓm Tô®û] EÓÚ®d úLôolTRôp TôÜÖôpLû[j RôeÏm NhPUôL A¡\Õ. ùSNÜd LûX«u AWmTLhPj§p BkR @ûUl× Rôu R±. Ut\ ùNVpØû\Ls BVk§W, DTLWQ, ÕûQdLÚ®L°u DR®«pXôUp ûLL[ôúXúV ùSnVlThPÕ. BfùNôp-û] SuÏ AWônkRôp ùSNÜd LûX ©\kRRu @¥lTûP SUdÏl ×XlThÓ®Óm.

132) RS aýúXôjùR /

THANA HULOOTHE

(i) Warp preparation ( Also : Tana keroothe / Tana ghalothe )

(i) TôÜ RVô¬jRp.

133) R2ùTô3 /

THABO

(i) Wooden-stand used to keep the hank while winding by swifter, Made of bamboo stick with two legs

(i) êe¡p ÕiÓL[ôp A] ÖôtLhÓ Rôe¡.

134) ùR2ùW /

THE'RE

(i) Corra (n) Coraw (n) Raw silk-warp (n), Hank (n) A coil of yarn made-up of single silk yarn in combination of multiple cucoons.

(i) ThÓÖôp LhÓ. LfNôlThÓ Öôp.

135) ùR2ùW Uôh3 /

THE'RE MAAD

(i) Make arrangement to to roll yarn to make Weft

(i) Öôp ÖôtL RùTô, ùTôj§, ùR2ùW, (ÖôpLhÓ) Ø;ùPô3 Pm[¬p - 49 -

¿o, A¡VYtû\ RVôo ¨ûX«p @ûUjRp.

136) ùR2ùW aýp¨ /

THE'RE HULNI

(i) Weft preparation (n) for loom, to weave)

(i) Öôp Öôt\p. EûP Öôp Öôt\p.

137) Rôj Rh3¨ /

THAATH THADNI

(i) Warp-gating (ii) Warp-gaitting

(i) TôÜ ¿hPp. Tô®û] R±«p ®¬jÕ ¿h¥ ùSnV RVôWôL

ûYjRp.

138) R2sùLô /

THALKO

(i) Thick, Thick yarn, Thickest yarn (i) R¥jR Öôp

139) Õôo /

TUUR

(i) Cloth-roller, ‘Fabric roll’ (ii) ‘A lengthy-squire wodden piece used to wound the fabric on handloom’

(i) TPUû] ùSnR Õ¦«û] Ñt± ûYdÏm TPUû] V

140) YoúLô3h /

VARGOOT

(i) Shedding-alignment (ii) A mark on warp, cause to run over the shuttle, A wide gap of yarn to adjust the leg-panchailo (n) A margin gap divider.

(i) úLôol× ºWôd¡ SôPô ùNpX/¨ßjR TôÜ Öô-p BPlTÓm

@ûPVô[dÏ± - 50 -

141) YvjWm / (i)

Cloth

VASTHRAM (ii)

Atricraft

made

weaving

fibres

(i) Õ¦ ÖôpLû[ ùSnYRôp ¡ûPdÏm LûXlùTôÚs

142) Yôj /

VAATH

(i) Wick (ii) A piece of cloth rolled and used to close holes, Jari thread, Coil (or) long thread of woven, resembles a thin line

(i) §¬ Öôp§¬ úTôuß Ñt±V _¬ûL BûZLs.

143) úYx¥k /

VAYSHTIN

(i) Wearings (n) Wearing apparel (n) General clothings

(i) DÓl×Ls

144) ®j3Ù§ UùLô3 /

VIDYUTI MAGO

(i) Power-loom (ii) A loom operated mechanically and electrically

(i) ªuNôWj R± (ii) ªuNôWjRôp Rô²VeÏm R±.

145) ®k¨ /

VINNI

(i) Weaving (ii) Moving yarns to and fro (or) sideways Creating fabric, Creating a piece of cloth by interlacing stands of fabric.

SLoj§d úLôojÕ Õ¦Lû[ DÚYôdLp. 146) ®kLôo / VINKAAR (i) Weaver (n) (Also : Veenkaar) (i) ùSNYô° (ùSnÙm

ùRô¯p/ùNVûXf ùNnTYo) 147) ÜÓúLôp / VUDUGOOL (i) Warp tension guide (ii) A wooden rod used to warp tension - 51 -

(i) TôÜÖô-û] BÝjÕÑt±Ùs[ Lm¥ Fu\ L¯Lû[ BÝjÕl

©¥dÏm Lm×

148) Üp§ /

VULTHI

(i) Even (v) Modify, Change, Regularize, Clear uneven lump yarns (v) “ Hulootte veLa busko hoye taagug vulti theav - Regularise the yarn, which is mingled in a bunch “

(i) £d¡Ùm, ºWtßm úTôn®hP Öôt\ ÖôûX ºWôdLp.

149) ÜúWôh /

VUROOT

(i) Vuroot - A stick (n) Vuroot vaLti is a stick used in loom

(i) R±«p DTúVôLlTÓjÕm Lm×L°p Iuß.

150) ÜxQ ùLo¨ /

VUSHNA KERNI

(i) Bleeching & Degumming (ii) Remove the colour from yarn to make whitish

(i) NXûY«ÓRp (ii) Öô-û] NXûY«hÓ ùYiûUVôdLp. W

151) In /

WHY

(i) Heald Wire (n) of handloom. ‘Y’ shaped Nylon thread consisting of 1500 gate per frame and totally 6000 gates of 4 frames used in dhoti loom.

(i) In F]lTÓm YVo úTôu\ ûSXôu Öôp. úYx¥ ùSnÙm

R±«p Ds[ 4 @f£#p @f£#®tÏ 1500 In ÅRUôL ùUôjRm 6000 In#Ls úNokÕ BûZLû[d ÖûZdL 6000 Õû[Lû[ DÚYôdÏ¡u\]. Y

152) VkÕôo /

YANTHUUR

@pXÕ ùL4¥3 LhùP - 52 -

(i) Race-board (n) Beat-up mechanism of loom, (machine) Usually 7-7.5& 9 feet width and 3-3.5feet height wooden frame.

ùSÚdL DRÜm ùT¬V UWfNhPm ùTôÕYôL 7 ØRp GZûW @¥ @LXØm, @¬RôL 9 @¥ ¿[Øm 3 ØRp êu\ûW @¥ DVWØm ùLôiP UWfNhPm. PART - II

153) A`ôn /

AASHAAI

(i) A loom that produces Polyester dhoti.

(i) Tô-ùVvPo Utßm TÚj§Ùm Tô-ùVvPo BûZLû[d LXkÕ

úYx¥ ùSnÙm ûLjR±«u ùTVo.

154) Tô3¦ /

BAANI

(i) Stylish (ii) Having elegance (or) taste or finement in manners of dress.

(i) Tô¦ AûP DÓjÕY§p @eL @ûN®p @ZûL

ùY°lTÓjRp.

155) Tô3o ú^ô /

BAAR SO

(i) A extra lenghted dhoti consisting of towel

(i) úYx¥Ùm, @eL#Yv§WØm ùRôPWôL ùSnVlTÓm ¿[ úYx¥.

156) ùTô3mùU LhùP /

BOMME KATTE

(i) Non-moving Picker (ii) A small ‘ Reverse of T ‘ shaped device fixed to stop the picker of loom.

(i) SLWôR "PLPô' (ii) SLÚm PLPô®û] ¨ßjÕm PLPô.

157) T3mTo /

BUMPER

(i) A loom that produces commercially lesser valued Polyester - 53 -

dhoti (n)

(i) ®ûX U-Yô], Tô-ùVvPo úYx¥Lû[ ùSnÙm R±.

158) Rô3mW LiùPô3 / DAAMRA KANDO UhPe LiùPô3 / MATTANG KANDO (i) A copper plated Jari, yarn fibre or coil.

(i) RôªW ØXôm éNlThP BûZLs.

159) R3oû^ùXô / DARSAILO ûL Lôh¥ / KAIKATTI (i) Pilaster (n) A ‘L’ shaped angle column that usually projects about a third of its width fixed in wall / Bed

(i) "P' Y¥Y Ae¡s LhûP. TPUû] ÖûZdLlTÓm ÑUôo SôuL¥

DVW ùSnTY¬u AN]j§tÏ BP YX Øû]L°p SPlTh¥ÚdÏm LhûP..

160) £dL² /

CHIKKANI

(i) Denier, 18 - 22 cocoon’s fibre created as one single yarn to produce dhoti. 18-27 cocoon’s fibre created as one single yarn to produce saree.

(i) TÚUjRWm. 18#22 ThÓl×Ýd áh¥ûZLs úNokÕ úYx¥ ùSnÙm

IÚ BûZÙm, 18#27 ThÓl×Ýd áh¥ûZLs úNokÕ úNûX ùSnÙm IÚ BûZÙm DÚYôdÏ¡\Õ. 60#90 ¼²Vo ùLôiPÕ R¨#BûZLs. 120#150 ¼²Vo ùLôiPÕ T2¥ BûZLs. _¬ ¼²Vo 120#180 BûZLs. ThÓ BûZ ùU-Ùm TÚUjRWjûRl ùTôßjÕ £\l×l ùTß¡\Õ. 161) K©p-¿u / FILLINEEN (i) Wearings (ii) Put cloths on body. A cloth which rolled-on body as to wear. i) DÓl×Ls. (ii) DPûXf Ñt±d LhÓm AûPLs.

162) aôÕm @p-¨ /

HAATHUM ALLINI

(i) Felt (ii) Mat together and felt-like using straight eyeless - 54 -

needle by hands.

AûP DÚYôdLp.

163) ¶p¡¦ @p-¨ /

HINGINI ALLINI

(i) Crocheting (ii) Make a piece of needlework by interlacing and looping thread with a hooked needle.

(ii) E£ûVl

TVuTÓj§ ÑtßØ¥f£hÓ AûP DÚYôdLp. 164) ¶pL3q¿u / HILGAVNEEN (i) Wearings, Putting cloths on body as hanging.

(i) DÓl×Ls. úRô°p Uôh¥j ùRôeÏm DÓl×Ls.

165) ùaôpXô Lôh3 /

HOL'LAA GAA'T

(i) Overhand knot (ii) A simple small knot (often used as part of other)

(i) YZdLUô] F°V Ø¥fÑ. (ii) Ut\ Ø¥f£u IÚ TÏ§VôL

úUXôL BPlTÓm Ø¥fÑ. 166) L^ýùWô / KASURO (i) Collection of thin spot of smooth and even yarn / fibre (n)

(i) DTúVô¡dL BVXôR £dÏÖôp, £ÕW F]lTÓm R¥jR

ÖôpTÏ§ûV úRnjÕ FÓjÕf ÑÚh¥V Öôp úTôu\ûYL°u ùRôÏlTô] £dÏÖôÚiûP.

167) ùLôp¡3 /

KOLGI

(i) A group of 4 fibres equal to 1 kolgi. A measurement name of fibres usually counted to border of dhoti. Normally 40 fibres of one side border in dhoti & upto to 150 kolgi (ie. 600 fibres)

(i) Tô®p SôuÏ BûZLs úNokRÕ 1 ùLôp¡3. TôoPo úTôP

FjRû] BûZLs DTúVô¡d¡u\]úWô, @jRû] ùLôp¡3 ùLôiP - 55 -

úYx¥ Fuß áßYo. TdLj§tÏ 40 ØRp 150 ùLôp¡ BûZLs YûW DTúVôLlTÓjRlTÓ¡\Õ. TôoPÚdLôL IÕdLlTÓ¡\Õ)

168) LfN R¨ /

(80 ØRp 600 BûZLs YûW

KACHA THANI

(i) Raw-warp (ii) A unprocessed warp & ready to process.

(i) LfNô TôÜ.

169) Xd3ùL3 ú_ôd3 /

LAGGE JOG

(i) A mark knot put on the end of warp

LfNô R¨«p (Tô®p) úTôPlTÓm IúW IÚ Ø¥fÑ. 170) ªvW / MISRA (i) Mixture variety (ii) A silk & viscose mixed yarn used to create cloths.

(i) LXl× YûL BVtûLl ThÓÖôÛm, ùNVtûL ThÓ ÖôÛm

LXkR LXûY @pXÕ ùTôÕYôL BÚúYßThP BûZLû[ LXkÕ ùSnÙm R± / Õ¦ WLeLs. 171) ¨ª- / NIMILI (i) Orange colour, Orange colour yarns used to decorate dhoti in left or right corners as borders.

(i) AWgÑ ¨\m.

172) ¨ù[ô /

GREEN

(i) Green colour, Green colour yarns used to decorate dhoti in left or right corners as borders.

(i) TfûN ¨\m.

173) ShÏPm /

NATKUTAM

(i) A long wooden pole used to hold and release ‘warptensioner’ of handloom - 56 -

(i) R±«-ÚkÕ ÑUôo A\¥ ÕôWj§p R±«u @LXj§tÏ SÓYôL

YÚmT¥ ¨ßjRlThP Õôi. LhPlTÓm Õôi.

174) ShYPm /

TôÜ ÖôpLû[ BÝdÏm L«tû\

NATVATAM

(i) Warp-tensioner rope

175) ùSôqY §3àv /

NOVVA DINUS

(i) Fashion (ii) The latest and most admired style on cloths and cosmetics and behaviour and activities of body.

(i) ×§V úT`u, SY SôL¬Lm.

176) ùSjRôp /

NETHAAL

(i) Dark red colour.

(i) LÚg£Ll× ¨\m.

177) T`ýj YvjWm /

PASHUUT VASTHRAM

(i) Garment (n) An article of clothing made of finest silk.

(i) ThPôûP

178) WLm /

RAGAM

(i) Variety (i) WLm / YûL

179) ³® @p-² /

SIVI ALLINI

(i) Needle work created by interlacing yarn in a series of connected loops

180) ù^ôùQ /

SONE

(i) A cracked and extended particle of reed (n) Reed having upto 3200 gate holes.

(i) ùTôu²«p Ds[ RÓl× Ïf£L°p GtTÓm ®¬Np. Øs

180) ^ývÕôo Lôm× /

SUSTHUUR KHAAMBU

(i) A long wooden pole used to hold and release ‘warptensioner’ of handloom knots)

(i) R±«-ÚkÕ ÑUôo A\¥ ÕôWj§p R±«u @LXj§tÏ SÓYôL

YÚmT¥ ¨ßjRlThP Õôi.

TôÜ ÖôpLû[ BÝdÏm L«tû\

LhPlTÓm Õôi.

181) ù^uà ùTô3hPôu /

SENNU BOT'TAAN

(i) Garb (ii) Clothing of a particular occasion.

(i) DÓl×. Ti¥ûLdLô] DÓl×Ls.

182) R¡3p¿u

/ TAGILNEEN

(i) Wearings (ii) Tog (iii) Putting cloths on body as to inserting.

(i) DÓl×Ls. DP-p ÖûZjÕ @¦Ùm AûP YûLLs.

183) TôùP3 Ys¥

/ RECTANGLE FRAME

(i) A border's yarn divider & border's yarn segrecator.

RôeÏm NhPm.

184) ®h3£¨ Ys¥ /

Pushing wood

(i) Connector wood-rod between Kurangaatti & Locks peti.

(i) Xôdv ùT¥#HÙm ÏWeLôh¥ûVÙm BûQdÏm Lm×.

185) ùLh3Tô3W /

Crowbar

(i) Crowbar used while streeting process. (i) @ p Û

(i) Tô-ùVvPo WLeLû[ ùSnÙm R±.

187) Øú^ôs TpùLô3 / ÏWeLôh¥ /

KURANGATTI

(i) Divider of warp yarn including border yarns.

BÕYûW ®[dLlThÓs[ ûLjR± DTLWQeL°u ùTVoLs ùYiThÓ Utßm LXl× BûZLs ùLôiP úYx¥Lû[ ùSnÙm R±L°p Ds[ ùRô¯pÖhTl ùTVoLú[. BÕ úTôuß ThÓf úNûXLs ùSnÙm R±L°u DTLWQeL°u ùRô¯pÖhTl ùTVoLs R²VôL Ds[]. @ûY BeÏ ®[dLlTP®pûX. úUÛm TX DTLWQeL°u ùN[WôxhWl ùTVoLs ®ÓThÓs[] Fuß ùRôPokÕ TXo ®ÓThP DTLWQl ùTVoLû[ á±YÚ¡u\]o. @ûYLs Li¥lTôL @ÓjR T§l©p úNodLlTÓm. úUÛm AoYm DûPVYoLs @§L ®[dLeLs, ®TWeLû[d ùLôÓjRôp @Õ ùN[WôxhW YôojûRL°u @¬V ùRôÏlTôL ®[eÏm. SUÕ TôWmT¬Vj ùRô¯Xô] ûLjR± ùSNûY ùRôPokÕ ùNnÕYÚm ÏÓmTeLs Buß ªLd Ïû\Ü. BúR ¨ûX ¿¥jRôp, ThÓÖôpLôWo Fu\ ùTVo ùYßm ùTVW[®p BÚdÏúU R®W, SUdÏm BjùRô¯ÛdÏm NmTkRúU BpXôÕ úTôn®Óm Fu\ ¨ûX YkRôÛm YkÕ®PdáÓm. ©tLôX úRûYLû[ Utßm SXuLû[d LÚj§p ùLôiÓ Bk ùSNÜdLûX NmTkRlThP YôojûRLû[ ×jRL Y¥®p T§l©jRôp, @Õ ¨WkRW ARôWUôL ®[eÏm FuTûR U]§p ùLôiÓ Bl×jRLm ùY°«PlTÓ¡\Õ. úUÛm £X NUVeL°p BkÖô-Ûs[ ûLjR± DTLWQeL°u ùTVoLû[ Tt±V ®YWeLs ÏZlTm YÚmúTôÕ TWmTûW ùSNYô°LÞÏ áP ùR°YôdÏ¡\Õ FuTûR @±kRôp U¡rf£ @ûP¡ú\u. Bl×jRLj§û] Ïß¡V LôXj§p £\kR Øû\«p DÚYôdL F]dÏ IjÕûZl× Sp¡V @û]YÚdÏm Sôu Su±d LPu ThÓsú[u. F]úY @YoLÞdÏ Su± ùR¬®lTÕ F]Õ LPûUVôÏm. Bl×jRLjûRl Tt±V ®U¬N]eLû[Ùm F]dÏ L¥Rm FÝ§Ùm ùR¬®«eLs. - 59 -

Su±ÙûW BkÖôp ùY°YW DßÕûQVôL BÚkR @fºu. K.Tô× (F) @]kRWôUu, B.A., Master weaver, £eÏ. B[eúLôYu, D.M.M.F.T. TôW¡¬. R. ÑRo^u, MDIFT., MBA.,

Utßm ùN[Wôx¥W DTLWQl ùTVoL°u Ae¡Xf ùNôtLû[ ùR¬®jR úNXm#638 183, ÏUôWTôû[Vm, Fv.Fv.Fm. Buvhëh AKl ùPdvûPpv ùPd]ôX´ Tô-ùPd²d LôúXw, Iod`ôl#BuvhWdPo §Ú. ®gÑu. B. Nk§WúNLo, D.H.T.

Utßm ùLkRT¥. R.TuÉoùNpYm, Master Weaver ùRvYôu. J.ØW°, Master weaver., U:sYôÕu L.ù_VTôp, ùRvYôu. R. YôÑúRYu, A¡úVôoLÞdÏm YôrjÕûW @°jRYoLÞdÏm Fu Su±«û]j ùR¬®jÕd ùLôs¡ú\u.

- 60 -