Van Bloem Gardens

Fall Planting for Spring Blooms

My 5 Favorite Fall Bulbs

In a world full of so many choices, it’s good to have a few tried-and-true standards that one can always count on. That’s how I feel about my essential spring-flowering bulbs. There are scores of bulb types available for planting, but five in particular make it into my garden every year: daffodils, tulips, alliums, muscari and hyacinths. From February through May these blooms bedazzled flower beds, containers and even my home as cut flowers. If you can only plant one thing for spring, make it one of these bulbs.

Daffodils

Daffodils are the first signs of spring; varieties such as ‘Rhijveld’s Early Sensation’ appear as early as January in my garden. These bulbs are perennial, will naturalize and are critter-proof. Plant early, mid and late season varieties for extended bloom.

Tulips

Tulips are your best bet for a colorful spring garden; there is a variety in just about every hue. Plant in drifts of at least 15 - 20 bulbs in the same color or color family to make a dramatic statement.

Alliums

Alliums are the ornamental cousin of onions (A. cepa) and garlic (A. sativum). Depending on the species, the flowers can be as big as a baseball or almost as small as a clover.

Consider A. giganteum ‘Gladiator’ for 5 to 6 inch diameter blooms that sit atop 3 to 6 foot stems. Mix them with perennials, shrubs and annuals.

Hyacinths

Oh, the sweet scent of hyacinths! While these blooms are beautiful in the garden, I typically plant hyacinths in containers.

Pack them in “shoulder-to-shoulder” for a gorgeous and fragrant display.

Muscari

Topping out at about 3 inches tall, muscari naturalize easily and look beautiful planted en masse in woodland areas. Plant them in containers to force into bloom indoors.

From Bulb to Bloom

Spring-flowering bulbs are some of the most rewarding plants you can grow. All it takes is a little elbow grease on the front end and patience.

Here are a few pointers to keep in mind when you head out into the garden this fall. These tips will work for any type of spring-flowering bulb you plant: daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, you name it!

What to Do When You Bring Your Bulbs Home

If you have purchased your bulbs through a mail order source, open the box of bulbs as soon as it arrives. Inspect your order to be sure that all bulbs on the list are there and in good condition. They should be firm and mold free. If you cannot plant them right away keep the bulbs in a cool, dry place, such as a garage, or basement. Warmth and moisture will signal the bulbs to start growing.

Check on them occasionally to be sure they aren’t getting moldy or soft.

When to Plant

Spring-flowering bulbs can be planted anytime in the fall after temperatures cool down, but before the ground freezes. Your bulbs need to establish strong root systems

before winter sets in. If you live in a warm climate where air temperatures don’t fall below freezing, bulbs, with the exception of daffodils, will require some pre-cooling by being stored in a refrigerator before planting. About 6 to 8 weeks will do the trick, but they can stay in the refrigerator longer if necessary. Remove any fruit (especially apples) in the refrigerator. The ethylene gas given off by ripening fruit will kill the flower inside the bulb.

Planting Location

Plant bulbs in an area that drains well. Most bulbs need from 4 to 6 hours of sunlight each day, some varieties (Spanish bluebells and daffodils) are more shade tolerant than others. When planting under trees select shade tolerant varieties and site them at the drip line rather than right under the tree.

If bulbs are going to come back year after year, like daffodils, try to find a place where they won’t be disturbed later in the season and where it won’t be a bother to allow the foliage to die back naturally after they flower.

Soil

Spring-flowering bulbs appreciate welldrained, humus-rich soils. Add a little compost or bagged humus to the bottom of the planting hole as well as some synthetic bulb fertilizer. I prefer a synthetic product to the traditional bone meal because it doesn’t attract squirrels and rodents.

Planting Depth

The rule of thumb is to plant bulbs at a depth that is 3 times their height. For example, if a daffodil bulb is approximately 2 inches tall, dig a hole 6-inches deep.

Smaller bulbs such as miniature daffodils are generally planted 3 to 5 inches deep.

You will want to plant the big ones like Allium gigantium ‘Globemaster’ 6 to 8 inches deep. Once covered with soil, a 2 inch thick layer of mulch is optional to help retain moisture and keep the bulbs cool. Just remember that if you do plan to add mulch, factor it into your planting depth.

When planting any type of bulb, position it so that the peaked end points up. That’s where flower stems will emerge. The flatter, usually larger end goes at the bottom of the planting hole.

Protecting from Squirrels and Rodents

To protect your bulbs from rodents burrowing, create a chicken wire basket that you can place in the hole dug for the bulb.

Line the bottom with the wire and bend up the sides about 2 inches. Once the basket is in place cover the bottom with a blend of 50-50 compost and topsoil, add a little bulb fertilizer and then drop in the bulb. Fill in the hole with the remaining soil.

If you have a problem with dogs, squirrels or other animals digging into your bulb plantings, you can place a piece of chicken wire over the top of the entire bed space and hide it with mulch. Just remember to remove the wire before the bulbs begin to emerge in the spring.

Early Emerging Foliage

Sometimes warm winter weather causes bulb foliage to begin emerging early. Bulbs are equipped with a certain amount of anti-freeze that can help them survive cold so the leaves should be okay. The only time to be concerned is once the flower has completely opened. If it looks like that may happen, my best advice if to cut a bouquet and enjoy the blooms in the house.

After Bloom Care

If you want perennial bulbs to bloom again the following year, the name of the game is to keep the leaves green as long as possible.

This gives the foliage time to recharge the bulb for next year’s blooms. For the best results, wait about 8 weeks after the blooms have faded to remove the foliage. In areas where tulips are not perennial you can remove the bulbs as soon as the flowers fade.

(light) Bulb Moments

Here are some clever ideas that will help you reimagine the way you use spring-flowering bulbs in your home and garden.

Forced Blooms

You can enjoy spring-flowering bulbs, amaryllis and paperwhites in the dead of winter by coaxing them into bloom indoors. All it takes is a little patience.

Spring-flowering bulbs need to spend a certain amount of time in the cold. For a quick turnaround purchase bulbs that have been “pre-chilled.” These bulbs have already gone through the necessary cooling period so they are ready to pot up and start growing.

If you can’t find those, just plant the bulbs in pots and store them for 8 to 12 weeks in a cold frame, outdoor shed, garage, or other dark area with temperatures from 35°F to 45°F. It’s important that you don’t expose bulbs to freezing temperatures. Once the bulbs have been pre-cooled, you can force them into bloom.

Once you see the leaves emerging from the soil move the pots to an intermediate area that has low light and slightly warmer temperatures. Over the next 3 to 4 days, gradually move your plants to a sunny window.

When the flowers appear, keep them in bright, indirect light. Temperatures of 60°F to 65°F will ensure longest flowering.

Turn the pots a bit each day so that the flowers do not lean to one side as they reach for the sun.

My experience has been getting forced bulbs to re-bloom can be tricky, so I never depend on them for color in my garden. I just try to enjoy their beauty for as long as I can indoors.

Bulb Planting Guide

Planting Depth

Muscari

Daffodil

4 in

Irises

Crocus Hyacinths

2 in

6 in

Lily

8 in Tulip

Allium

10 in