Piedmont Virginian Magazine Fall 2020 by Warrenton Lifestyle Magazine

BLACK BASEBALL STANDOUTS

LUCK-Y BIRDS

MAKING STATUES HISTORY

A SHORT DRIVE TO

AWORLD AWAY Finding refuge at Fiery Run Saving scenic byways A wine maker looks back...and ahead Impulse buying a new dream

AUTUMN 2020

ROAD TRIPS: THE CAMPING ISSUE

“The Hunt in Belvoir Vale” by John Ferneley Sr. Photo courtesy of National Sporting Library & Museum

Historic

Middleburg Virginia

Discover our traditions while creating your own... VA Fall Races

Middleburg, Virginia, (1787), is a charming Southern destination known as the nation’s horse and hunt capital. Set against the backdrop of the Blue Ridge Mountains, less than 50 miles from Washington, D.C., Middleburg offers the best of small-town America: local art, historic landmarks, and one-of-a-kind boutiques.

Jumping Rocks Photography

If you love great food, Middleburg is the Southern food destination you have to know about. Our best restaurants are locally owned and offer everything from farm-to-table gourmet dining to hearty tavern fare, with locally made libations from the many wineries, distilleries, and breweries in the area. f you’re looking to get away from the hustle and bustle, Middleburg is the ideal destination to relax. Whether you desire a 5-star luxury resort, charming country inn, or a peaceful bed and breakfast, you’ll find a place to rest here.

Create your own

Middleburg Moment

Red Fox Inn

What’s open for business now? visitmiddleburgva.com/open-in-middleburg Jodi Miller Photography

MBPA

The Middleburg Business & Professional Association in support of the local business & retail community.

540 . 687 . 8888

VA Fall Races

www.visitmiddleburgva.com Red Fox Inn

Parkside View, Bentonville

This magnificent 72 AC retreat has panoramic mountain views, lush gardens and shared border with SNPark. Short walk to trail linking Appalachian Trail. 4BR/4.5BA, office suite with high speed broadband and wet bar with bonus 4 car detached garage, stables and fenced paddocks. Perfect for the hiker, hunter, equestrian, gardener and wildlife enthusiasts. $1,495,000

Brookhill Farm, Boston

Brookhill Farm boasts outstanding views of the Blue Ridge Mountains and Hazel River frontage on a 44.5 AC lot. The 4BR/3.5 BA main farmhouse has a heated pool, porches, mature gardens, a brick veranda, a gourmet kitchen, plus more. Farm includes fenced fields, run-in shed, a barn and an additional 3.8 AC lot with a Guest Cottage. $1,099,000

The Ballard Building, Washington The Ballard Building has one of the best locations in town- just steps from the famed Inn and other town highlights. The main flr. is retail with a half BA and wood floors. The lower level is a gallery with storage. The 3rd flr. has a 1 BR/1 BA renovated apt. $535,000

Three Ponds Retreat, Sperryville

Three Ponds Retreat is the outdoor sportsmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dream. Whether it is eagles and herons fishing in the ponds or deer, bear and other wildlife wandering out of the Shenandoah National Park, there is always something new to see. This magical 33.9 acre property features three ponds, two cabins, mature forests as well as a border with the national park. $850,000

Fair Haven, Castleton

An elegant retreat on 15 landscaped acres in the heart of Rappahannock County. The approx. 5300 Sq. Ft. house features one level living with 4 BR, 6 BA, 5 fireplaces, gourmet kitchen, beautiful woodwork, interior courtyard, great room, game room, 2 garages and more. Beautiful views of rolling farm land and mountains. $1,449,000

Ashby Road, Sperryville

This five acre lot is ready for your dream country escape. The level lot has open areas and is surrounded by trees, with the majestic Blue Ridge just beyond. Minutes to the Village of Sperryville and SNPark trail heads. $159,000

Corner Cottage, Flint Hill

Corner Cottage is in the heart of Flint Hill. The traditional, circa 1850, solid brick home is chock full of history and charm. The 2 bed/1.5 bath home with original plaster walls sits proudly on the 0.03 acre lot. $249,000

cheriwoodard.com

37 Main Street, Sperryville, VA 22740

(540) 987-8500

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Classic Design • Traditional Techniques • Artisan Made Crafted right here in the Piedmont

FOUNDING EDITOR: Walter Nicklin

CO-FOUNDERS: Arthur W. (Nick) Arundel, Sandy Lerner

PUBLISHER Dennis Brack EDITOR Pam Kamphuis ART DIRECTOR Kara Thorpe

“Every Great Painting Deserves a P. H. Miller Studio Frame”

SENIOR EDITOR Gus Edwards ASSOCIATE EDITOR Ed Felker FOOD EDITOR Kaitlin Hill

Hand carved Cherry face with water gilded inner frame and back

Gilding, Carving and Restoration Services Offered 1 East Main St. | Berryville, Virginia 22611 info@phmiller.com | www.phmillerstudio.com | 540-955-3939

FABRICS UNLIMITED

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SALES DIRECTOR Jim Kelly ACCOUNTING MANAGER Carina Richard Wheat CIRCULATION MANAGER Jan Clatterbuck 540-675-3338 CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Glenda Booth, Kristie Kendall, Pete Pazmino, Tony Vanderwarker, Carla Vergot, James Wilkinson BEAGLE MIX Angel The Piedmont Virginian is published quarterly by Rappahannock Media, L.L.C. 309 Jett St., Washington, VA 22747 540.349.2951, pam@piedmontpub.com Subscription inquiries: 540.675.3338 All editorial, advertising, reprint, and/or circulation correspondence should use the above address, or visit the website: www.piedmontvirginian.com The editors welcome but accept no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts and art. Reprints or bulk copies available upon request. Subscription rates: $24.95/one year, $45.95/two years. © 2020 by Rappahannock Media, LLC. ISSN # 1937-5409 POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to The Piedmont Virginian, P.O. Box 59, Washington, VA 22747.

3912 Seminole Trail, Charlottesville 22911 434-973-5641 ~ Monday-Saturday 9:30-5:30 www.fabricsunlimitedva.com 2 PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

| AUTUMN 2020

ATOKA

MIDDLEBURG REAL ESTATE

PROPERTIES

FLEETWOOD FARM | DELAPLANE

FIVE POINTS RD | THE PLAINS

$21,700,000 | Fleetwood Farm showcases the rolling hills and majestic mountain views that Virginia's Hunt Country is known for. Comprised of 26 parcels totaling 2,477 acres of mature farmland, this massive plot sits a mere 60 miles west of Washington DC.

$6,000,000 | Legacy Farm: 450 acres in Orange County Hunt's most prized territory. Build your dream estate amidst rolling, park-like ﬁelds, stone walls, a lazy little creek and framed by unmatched mountain views. The property is in a conservation easement and also a fox-hunting easement.

Peter Pejacsevich 540.270.3835

Scott Buzzelli 540.454.1399

20858 GREEENGARDEN RD | BLUEMONT

721 KENNEL RD | BOYCE

$1,800,000 | 120+/- acres of beautiful land with far reaching pastoral views in a peaceful, private location! Multiple outbuildings including a shed, run-in and barn. Cape Cod/Bungalow home with 2 full beds, 1.5 baths. An incredible opportunity! The property is in land use and conservation easement.

$950,000 | Build your ideal home in a super private Clarke Co. setting. 87 acres, partially wooded, open farmland, beautifully maintained. Small farm building exists on property (2017) w/ bathroom, good well & septic ﬁeld for 3 BD, could be expanded. Spectacular views of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

Peter Pejacsevich 540.270.3835

Anne McIntosh 703.509.4499

Scott Buzzelli 540.454.1399

Maria Eldredge 540.454.3829

12850 SHADY LN | HILLSBORO

10995 HARPERS FERRY RD | HILLSBORO

$399,000 | 11 improved acres in Loudoun w/ charming cottage, well & septic. Home backs to mature trees, providing a private oasis. 650 ft of road frontage. Great spot for a ﬁrst time homebuyer! Opportunity abounds: you can opt to add on to the existing cottage or build a new home to suit your taste.

$379,000 | Completely renovated Cape Cod with mountain views and scenic vistas from the lovely front porch. Hardwood ﬂoors are found throughout, brand new paint, upgraded appliances & counters, newly tiled bathrooms, loads of storage basement. Enjoy the country and be close to commuter routes.

Mary Kakouras 540.454.1604

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ON THE COVER ON THE COVER Malinda Fletcher with her vintage teardrop camper The Trillium Trail in bloom at the G. Richard Thompson which is equipped for off-grid use. Wildlife Management Area, one of the largest stands of “I prefer areas where Large there is no cell reception andin nothe traffic. At nighttime Flower Trillium Mid-Atlantic there’s no light pollution so it’s so dark and quiet. It’s just me and the crickets. Then I really feel I’m away from it all.”

Photograph by Doug Graham

Photograph by Camden Littleton

| AUTUMN 2020

D.C.

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A “ ffinities, not simply geography, create the Piedmont’s unique regional identity. We strive to give voice to this special — even magical — place in the hopes that it remains so.”

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FEATURES AUTUMN 2020 • VOLUME XIV • ISSUE 3

MUSIC & THE ARTS

REFLECTIONS

The Barns of Rose Hill

The Monuments We Build, The Stories We Tell, and the Land that Unites Us Nothing is ever “set in tone” BY WALTER NICKLIN

PEOPLE OF THE PIEDMONT

Zoe Sumrall

Forest Technician BY ED FELKER

PR E SER VAT I ON

30 America’s Routes

Progress on the preservation of Loudoun County’s historic roads BY EMILY HOUSTON

E SSAY

36 Reflections on Fiery Run

A place of longtime healing and refuge in Fauquier County BY JAMES RESTON, JR.

A world-class arts and music experience. BY LINDA ROBERTS AND ED FELKER

13 SPECIAL SECTION

ROAD TRIPS The Camping Issue A short trip to a world away where you can enjoy the area’s charms from one of the many campgrounds that dot the landscape. Where to stay and what to do: Eating, drinking and playing Why we camp — the lure of the outdoors: Insights from camping pros What’s for dinner? Recipes for around the campfire Who’s coming: Taking your (four-legged) best friend along

H ER I TAGE

48 Baseball Greats

African American baseball players born in the Piedmont BY GLENDA C. BOOTH AGR I CU LT U R E & FO O D

44 Cherishing Chevre

Historic George’s Mill Farm BY KAITLIN HILL CONSER VAT I ON

52 Peregrine Falcon Nursery

Raptor pair chooses Ashburn quarry to raise their young BY GLENDA C. BOOTH WINE

56 A Milestone

DuCard Vineyards celebrates 10th Anniversary BY SCOTT ELLIFF

PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

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OUR CONTRIBUTORS HOMESTEADING CONFERENCE experience homesteading community & education

• WATCH PRE-RECORDED & LIVE LECTURES ONLINE

• CHAT LIVE WITH SPEAKERS & ATTENDEES • PRE-CONFERENCE INTERACTIVE WORKSHOPS . . . AND MORE!

Glenda Booth, a freelance writer and editor who lives in Northern Virginia, writes about natural resources, historic sites, interesting people, public policy, travel, and other topics for magazines, newspapers, and online publications. She grew up in Southwest Virginia and received degrees from Longwood University and the University of Virginia. Ed Felker is a graphic designer, photographer, writer, outdoorsman, and Virginia native. His award-winning writing and photography have been featured in many fine Virginia publications. Ed can most often be found outdoors near his studio overlooking the Potomac River, usually with a camera, often with a fly rod, always with a dog.

JOEL SALATIN • SALLY FALLON MORELL MELISSA K. NORRIS RORY FEEK • MIKE DICKSON, THE FIT FARMER

JUSTIN RHODES •

JASON & LORRAINE OF SOW THE LAND DARRYL PATTON • HAND HEWN FARM • & MORE!

October 9 & 10, 2020 Watch LIVE, or Watch the Replay Later!

Learn About:

homesteading • farming • urban farming food preservation • raising livestock Meat production • off grid living • fiber art dairy animals • whole foods • gardening beekeeping • and so much more !

more info at: www.homesteadersofamerica.com Homesteading education, support, and events

6 PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

Reserve Your Seat! Register to Attend Today

| AUTUMN 2020

Douglas Graham’s award-winning career spans over 35 years as a staff and freelance editorial photographer. His work has covered national and international news, national politics, professional, Olympic and collegelevel sporting events. He retired from the Economist Group in Washington in 2014 but continues to freelance at the local level. He holds first place news photo awards in many categories in national press and photography associations. Kaitlin Hill is a Culinary Institute of America trained chef with a B.A. in history from the University of Richmond. After completing her culinary degree, she worked in New York as a professional pastry chef, recipe tester for Saveur magazine, and editorial assistant to renowned food critic Gael Greene. In 2015, she returned home to Washington, D.C., where she currently runs a catering business and works as a freelance writer and photographer. Emily Houston, in addition to being a member of the America’s Routes team, is on the board of the Loudoun County Equine Alliance (LoudounEquine.org), editor of Horse Times magazine (horsetimes.net) and a member of the Rural Roads Committee of the Loudoun County Preservation and Conservation Coalition. Camden Littleton is a professional photographer and digital marketing consultant who lives in Charlottesville. When not photographing and creating content, she hangs out with her poodle, Grace (@ gracelittleton on Instagram) and explores menus, music, and mountains with friends and family throughout the Piedmont. She grew up in Middleburg and graduated with B.S. in communications from Appalachian State University.

Clarke County resident and journalist Linda Roberts has blended her years of professional experience into her own communications company which serves a select group of clients in the Piedmont and Shenandoah Valley. She enjoys gardening, riding and training horses and volunteering with communityenriching organizations. She is a board member of the Clarke County Humane Foundation. Carla Hogue Vergot recently finished her second book, a mystery romance set in Marshall. She’s working on the third in the series. For fun, she and her husband Ricky work in the garden, play fetch with the dogs, and take jeeps off-road. Ricky points out that Carla’s planting skills far exceed her wheeling skills. To date, no one disagrees with that. Jennifer Waldera shares her hunger for, and curiosity about, food, drinks, and exploration as a freelance writer for numerous MidAtlantic and online publications. Read more of her work at jenniferwaldera.com and follow her travels at @jlwriter on Instagram.

We want to hear from you! Please contact us with story ideas, photo submissions, article reactions, comments, questions, or upcoming events that would interest our readers. pam@piedmontpub.com | 540-349-2951 | piedmontvirginian.com facebook.com/thepiedmontvirginian | instagram.com/thepiedmontvirginian

PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

| AUTUMN 2020 7

REFLECTIONS

The Monuments We Build, the Stories We Tell, and the Land that Unites Us BY WALTER NICKLIN

othing is ever “set in stone,” not even stones. As the Confederate monuments come down, the stories we tell ourselves, more malleable than stone, become subject to annotation and amendment, even revision. We need stories, whether they are true or not. From stories, meaning is imparted to otherwise chaotic experience. Stories try to make sense about what happened, what almost happened, and what should have happened. To grow up in segregationist, rural Virginia, as I did, was to find deep resonance in the stories of William Faulkner. Here from the novel “Intruder in the Dust,” he eloquently evokes the start of Pickett’s Charge at the Battle of Gettysburg, frequently called the Confederacy’s high-water mark: For every Southern boy 14 years old, not once but whenever he wants it, there is the instant when it’s still not yet two o’clock on that July afternoon in 1863, the brigades are in position behind the rail fence, the guns are laid and ready in the woods and the furled flags are already loosened to break out and Pickett himself with his long oiled ringlets and his hat in one hand probably and his sword in the other looking up the hill waiting for Longstreet to give the word and it’s all in the balance, it hasn’t happened yet, it hasn’t even begun yet, it not only hasn’t begun yet but there is still time for it not to begin . . . . What makes history so interesting — and the basis for most of the stories we tell ourselves — is that what happened in the past didn’t have to happen. Nothing was yet inevitable. Events become inevitable only in retrospect. So history’s contingencies — the imaginative “what-if ’s” — fascinate and make poignant notions such as “The Lost Cause.” Even discounting the legitimacy of that particular “cause” (the Confederacy), it was for me simply a powerful metaphor for the tragic understanding of what makes us all human — when what we will to happen does not happen.

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| AUTUMN 2020

REFLECTIONS

To fight, to be defeated and honorably die for reasons quickly forgotten in the heat of battle — as during Pickett’s Charge — is a story told around fires by the earliest humans. With Homer, it becomes the urtext for Western civilization’s narrative traditions. Achilles, Ajax, Hector, and Odysseus are memorialized for their heroic actions — not for any cause for which they were presumably fighting: who gets to call Helen his wife?

But stories that can unite us — helping to forge a community, a nation, a world of peace — can also divide us, as facts are forged to fit into narrative storylines. Indeed, competing narratives can become dangerous and deadly. For a much more recent example than the American Civil War: Germans’ story of how World War I ended — that their soldiers had been “stabbed in the back” by their own government — was decidedly different from the story Americans, British, and French told themselves. World War II was the inexorable consequence. So, too, the Confederate monuments have competing storylines. Increasingly, the narratives associated with them have less to do with valor and courage fighting against inevitable defeat than with the institution of slavery. The same with the Confederate battle flag: no longer a proud proclamation of rebellious independence but an inflammatory symbol of white supremacy. Not a rebel flag but a racist flag. My Faulkner-loving, younger self is sad that the monuments are coming down. My older, presumably wiser self must reluctantly admit that to leave them in place is to invite something like another Civil War. What endures — more lasting than the stone of monuments — is the Civil War’s blood-soaked landscape, such as here along the banks of Rappahannock River where Lee’s Army of Northern Virginia and Lincoln’s Army of the Potomac clashed. The stories told of this history are integral to the Virginia Piedmont’s genus loci (“spirit of the place”). Monuments are not needed when the landscape — and its ghosts, somehow even more solid than stone — can speak so eloquently.

The Robert E. Lee statue on Monument Avenue in Richmond as it appeared in 2019 (it looks far different now). PHOTO BY DENNIS BRACK

PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

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PEOPLE OF THE PIEDMONT

Zoe Sumrall FOREST TECHNICIAN VIRGINIA DEPARTMENT OF FORESTRY BY ED FELKER

People of the Piedmont is an ongoing portrait series spotlighting compelling individuals of the Piedmont. Captured in genuine moments through the lens and words of Ed Felker, the subjects are portrayed immersed in the pursuits that get them up in the morning and drive them all day. 10 PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

Zoe Sumrall grew up in Warren County, nestled between Shenandoah National Park and the George Washington National Forest, just four miles from each. From her yard she could see Skyline Drive. Her family owned a small lot along the Shenandoah River and she has fond memories of exploring, camping, swimming and canoeing there. Family friends were resident park rangers at Shenandoah National Park. To say she was immersed in the outdoors at a young age would be putting it mildly. She was always intrigued by animals. When she was in preschool, the kids in her class were asked to think about what they wanted to be when they grew up. “My answer? Zookeeper,” Zoe recalled easily. But for a long time she didn’t quite know what she wanted to do with her life. “I knew what interested me,” Zoe said. “But I didn’t know what to do with that information.” A science teacher decided to teach environmental science for the first time at her school. “Thank goodness he did,” she said. “I had no idea that you could go to college for environmental science until I took his class.” Her path was beginning to take shape. Zoe earned her B.A. from Shepherd University, but environmental science is a broad discipline. While she learned a great deal, she didn’t feel as if she acquired the necessary skills to get a job doing something she really enjoyed. “There I was again,” she said. “I didn’t really know what to do with that information.” After a stint at Sky Meadows State Park as a member of AmeriCorps – a program that teaches skills to young people while providing essential community needs such as sustaining parks – she was hired by the park part-time. She started working on a master’s degree through Virginia Tech, and in 2016 the stars aligned as the Virginia Department of Forestry had a position open where Zoe was living. She now splits her time between Virginia’s state parks and as a forest technician for the Department of Forestry. For the first time, she felt she knew what to do with the information. The Virginia Department of Forestry is perhaps best known for fighting wildfires, but it is an all-hazards response agency. Teams respond to wildfires, hurricanes, floods, and winter storm emergencies in Virginia and beyond if out-of-state assistance is requested (such as for major hurricanes and other disasters). “In Virginia, humans cause 95 percent of wildfires,” Zoe said. “The most common causes of wildfires that I have experienced include escaped debris burns (the most common), downed power lines, and improper disposal of woodstove ashes.” But accidental or naturally occurring wildfires aren’t the only fires under the Department of Forestry’s domain. As part of their training, the agency’s firefighters also become Virginia Certified Prescribed Burn Managers. Prescribed burning is applying fire to the landscape deliberately to achieve predetermined results. Landowners or natural resource managers may desire a prescribed burn for a variety of reasons, such as to improve wildlife habitat or reduce wildfire hazard. Writing and executing Prescribed Burn Management plans is a big part of Zoe’s job. In such a plan, she and her team must describe what, when, where, why and how they intend to burn a given area, identify weather parameters they’re looking for, and what strategy, personnel and equipment will be needed to safely accomplish the goal. “Think of it as writing a prescription for the burn,” Zoe explained. “Prescribed fire is necessary because fires used to happen naturally onto the landscape,” Zoe said. “But over time, people began suppressing fires more and more. This changes the landscape by not allowing it to go through its natural processes done by fire.” Prescribed burning is a safe way to mimic those once-natural fires. “It’s important to remember that not all fire is bad.” Prescribed fire is not always the answer, but where it is suitable, it creates critically important wildlife habitat and maintains the health of an ecosystem. Being a steward for healthy forests and wildlife population would please the preschool zookeeper Zoe. And she’s happy working outdoors in the same area where she fell in love with nature as a kid. She describes her affinity for the outdoors by referencing the biophilia hypothesis introduced by E.O. Wilson. “Humans have an instinctive desire to connect with nature, whether it is spending time in nature to improve mental health, sitting on a porch, or wanting a view of nature from the office window,” Zoe said. “People want to be outside.” | AUTUMN 2020

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D e l i g ht • R e ve l • A spi re

The Camping Issue

Where to stay and what to do: Eating, drinking and playing Why we camp: The lure of the outdoors How we camp: Insights from camping pros What’s for dinner? Recipes for around the campfire

PHOTO BY CAMDEN LITTLETON

Who’s coming: Taking your (four-legged) best friend along

RV there yet? A short drive to a world away

The Charms of the Piedmont

It’s Safe

Planning your adventure

The Piedmont area of Virginia, within a few hour’s drive from the Washington, D.C., suburbs, is a short trip to a world away where you can get lost in the bucolic countryside, do some hiking, and enjoy nature. Sounds good after the stress of the past few months, doesn’t it? Not only does the area feature some of the best outdoor experiences around, the Piedmont also offers an incredible selection of restaurants (casual to gourmet), wineries/breweries/ distilleries, historical attractions, all the arts in profusion, quaint small towns for shopping, and an almost endless number of outdoor recreational activities. Imagine hiking in the National Forest to gorgeous views of the mountains, fishing, or observing the wildlife. Of course, in the warm weather, tubing or kayaking on the rivers is not to be missed. There’s something for everyone here! And what better way to experience it than from your own cozy campsite and campfire?

Since the COVID pandemic started, camping has seen a huge rise in popularity as people embrace it as a safe, socially distanced way to have fun, spend time with family, and get out in nature. This year, veteran campers and campground staff are seeing a marked increase in the number of people and families camping, and sales of campers and camping equipment have skyrocketed. Warren Keely, owner of Road Trip Camping in Orange, says, “Our sales have doubled this year. We’re seeing a wide demographic, all the way from young adults to retirees. But probably the biggest increase in sales is by young families. Any family with kids is feeling pinned in because of the lack of social interface for children. So, many parents are feeling the need to get their kids out of the house and doing something active.”

This issue will introduce you to camping in the Piedmont with insights, reflections, and photos from local veteran campers. Our food editor Kaitlin Hill shares some delicious recipes to be prepared at your campfire, and our dog columnist Ed Felker reflects on the logistics of bringing your fourlegged best friend along. We are also providing a catalog to guide you in planning your adventure which includes information on area campgrounds with nearby dining/drinking/recreation recommendations. The Piedmont awaits! A view of the Blue Ridge from rural Rappahannock County PHOTO BY CAMDEN LITTLETON

Piedmont Campers

Share the Joy

Alone or with friends and family, camping in the region makes life a little better. Several Piedmont residents who also are enthusiastic campers shared with us some stories and details on what kind of camping they enjoy. While they all camp differently, and for different reasons, there are some recurring themes: getting away, enjoying the outdoors, and spending quality time with family or friends. MALINDA FLETCHER grew up camping, and my fondest memories are about camping with my dad. He had a VW van we’d take out and camp in. My brother and I were so into it that we even pitched tents in the backyard and slept out there sometimes. I started looking for a camper a few years ago. My aunt and uncle had a vintage teardrop, and I just loved it. I knew exactly what I wanted, and I lucked out when this one became available. I fell in love with it immediately. One of the things I really like about it is its weight. It’s only about 1,000 pounds, and I can tow it with my little Lexus. It’s really easy to drive around and park, although it looks pretty comical at bigger campgrounds next to those huge RVs. I have a set up that lets me camp off-grid, which I love. The camper has a propane tank and a 50-gallon stainless steel water tank with an old fashioned pump sink. I have a changing tent, a compostable toilet, and a solar shower. A lot of things are battery operated, like the lights and fans. One big upgrade I would like to do someday is to add bigger solar powered batteries, that way I could also have air conditioning. I do just about everything with my little trailer. It can sleep three, and it’s really comfortable. I go to music festivals, wineries and breweries, campgrounds all around here, and even offgrid in fields. I really enjoy it, whether I go alone, or with my daughters, or with girlfriends. Each experience is different, but special. Camping in Virginia is the best: there are so many places to go. In Rappahannock, we are lucky, we’re so close to Shenandoah National Park. The scenery is always beautiful year round. The thing I enjoy most about camping is getting away from everything. Getting out in touch with nature helps me relax and rewire my brain. I like to camp in remote areas, where there’s no cell reception and no traffic. At nighttime there’s no light pollution so it’s so dark and quiet. It’s just me and the crickets. Then I really feel I’m away from it all.

BY CAMDEN LITTLETON

The Camping Issue SARAH BLECH ’ve been camping for 30 years and enjoy the more difficult backcountry camping, hiking to the campsite with all my gear as opposed to driving. I camp in Shenandoah National Park and National Forests, but also occasionally take bigger trips out west. I camp to camp. I’m not looking for other activities or recreation that would distract me from appreciating the experience itself. For me, the draw to camping is being outdoors and on my own. My camping partners sometimes include either my boyfriend or niece, and sometimes my dogs, as well. I enjoy the exercise and challenging myself to accomplish a physical goal. It’s being away from everything. It’s a great way to separate myself from outside influences and enjoy the outdoors. It’s incredibly rewarding.

WARREN KEELY started my business, Road Trip Camping, selling quality lightweight campers that are towable with smaller vehicles, because of my love and passion for the outdoors, road trip travel, and spending real, quality time with loved ones. My big catalyst was 9/11. At that time of crisis, our thoughts were, “life’s too short!” So, we decided to get out and enjoy life as much as possible. We bought our first camper in July 2002. Here we are nearly 20 years later, and I have a camper-related business. And, with the pandemic, we’re dealing with another major crisis. It’s having a very similar effect on large segments of society as 9/11 did. I, too, am having introspective thoughts again as I see my customers making the same decisions we did back then. It’s refreshing and fulfilling to watch and be a part of because we’re helping to bring joy to many. It also makes me realize that I’m not stopping to smell the roses as much myself these days, but that will change. We’ll get back to it again.

COURTESY PHOTOS

ALLIE AND JASON LOUDERBACK e decided to purchase a camper this year after looking around for a couple of years. However, due to the pandemic, inventory was very low. When we were ready to look again and make a decision, all the lots were depleted. There were minimal options to look at. Dealers said campers and RVs are flying off the lots this year as people look for different vacation options. Camping provides a way to get away and make memories with your family without the same level of risk as busier locations. We ultimately decided on a Forest River Salem 26DBUD because it hit the “sweet spot” of layout, price, and size for our needs and wants. We have young children and we knew we would spend a significant amount of time in the camper, making it important to have enough space and bunks. Our primary goal when camping is to take a break from our fast-paced jobs, unplug, and enjoy the outdoors with the kids. We bought our camper with the intention of having an easy way to get away with the kids more often and not have to get dog sitters, but we also have plans to go with just friends and a couple’s getaway, too. We primarily look for campgrounds that are fun for small children and are known for being family friendly. We feel like these are going to be some of their favorite childhood memories. We’re by no means “roughing it” in our camper, but it’s definitely a simpler life. I think it's something we all need again: to get back to times enjoying family instead of all the rush-rush vacations that have been popular in the past.

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It also has an awesome outdoor kitchen, which is another thing we really wanted. It even has an icemaker. It’s turned out to be a great size for us, but at first it was a little intimidating to tow. We had to trade in our Ram 2500 because it just wasn’t powerful enough for it. The most important thing to us is to get away from our busy lives and spend time with our family. We enjoy traditional camping activities like fishing and hiking, and we also keep an eye out for wineries, breweries, and other fun stuff along the way. We’ve enjoyed staying at campgrounds in Luray and Louisa County and, a favorite: setting up camp on our property next to the Shenandoah River.

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COURTESY PHOTOS

DAWN AND CHAD PARSONS fter tent camping for years, we recently bought a Frost River Cherokee, a 37-foot pull-behind trailer camper. We’ve been talking for years about buying a camper when we’re ready to retire, and have been looking around. But with everything going on with COVID, we decided to go ahead and do it now so we could make the best use of it. We’ve had to be more conservative with finances and for a family, shorter, local trips are more economical. While shopping around, we wanted to make sure we got the layout and space we knew they would need. We chose the Frost River Cherokee because it has four bunks to accommodate the children and grandchildren as well as all of the other conveniences we need, like an indoor toilet, sink, and shower.

The Camping Issue

Really? Camping? A rookie camper goes all in BY CARLA VERGOT

he man never camped a day in his life. In our years-long relationship, it hadn’t once come up as an item of interest. Three years ago, when my husband first revealed his desire to camp, I wasn’t sure if it was because he just survived cancer or if he was having a good ol’ fashioned midlife crisis. Here’s what I do know—when those two things collide, all bets are off. So, the man who had never camped a day in his life researched teardrop trailers with a passion. When he throws himself into something you can either join in or be bulldozed out of the way. I learned this when we launched the Great Garden Experiment. I had grown up camping, or as he tells people, being perfectly comfortable sleeping on a rock. Truthfully, it had been a long time since I’d done any camping, and I watched with interest as he explored his options. When he found what he wanted, he ordered it from a mom-and-pop operation that built a custom product to his specs. It took forever, the company was under investigation, and people weren’t getting their campers. We finally got ours just before they went out of business, which seems to be a recurring theme with

these little companies specializing in the teardrop. Since the camper was designed to go both off-road and off-grid, he customized a Jeep to pull it. This would be the third Jeep in a family of two. As you can see, we made a fairly substantial investment in a hobby he had never even tried. Luckily, it worked out. He fell in love with camping, and I reignited my own love affair with the lifestyle I had abandoned years earlier. There have been amazing starry skies and perfectly toasted marshmallows. There have also been dinners that took so long to cook, we were a saltine away from turning into the Donner Party. There was the weekend where I got the best night’s sleep of my entire life, and there was the trip when it rained so hard that sitting under the awning was just a slower way to get thoroughly soaked. We discovered teamwork, fellowship, and ingenuity. We suffered smoke inhalation, chiggers, and cold feet. For every good aspect of camping there’s an equally crummy aspect, and the law of averages dictates that you’ll get a fair share of both. In the beginning, I was curious how my newly minted camper would handle the struggle, but he was…well…

incredible. He stuck it out through each adversity. And once we were back in civilization, he’d google a solution to the problem. Too many bugs? Here’s a screened enclosure to keep the mosquitos out. Not enough light once the sun goes down? Here’s a three-pack of LED lanterns. No hands to hold a flashlight? Try this headlamp. And he also threw himself into achieving certain levels of campsite aptitude. He looked for recipes we could try, modifying them to meet our needs. When he realized he had no idea how to build a campfire, he dove headlong into the challenge, assembling a fire kit with every tested and novel fire-starting trick since the first cave man discovered that wood burns. He even started training to give himself more strength and flexibility around the fire circle. I think he’s an extraordinary example of a non-camper-turned-camper. I don’t think this happens all the time. So, in the midst of the camping explosion the country is experiencing, I applaud everyone who decides to give it a go. I don’t recommend the route we took. Ease into it like you would slip into a warm bath. Maybe rent a camper or borrow a tent first. If it goes well, try it a couple more times before making an investment. Decide how many times a year you can/will actually camp and decide if that justifies a major purchase. Also, come up with a strategy in case there are members of the family who don’t take to it. Lastly, before you embark on this new adventure, take a first aid class. There will be bites, burns, scrapes, and cuts. It’s good to know how to handle them before you actually have to. Don’t be put off by the fact that every camper eventually needs a first aid kit. That’s a small price for the good medicine camping provides. The experiences, the fellowship, and nature itself combine for some very strong therapy. PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

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Planning Your Adventure! Campgrounds, dining, drinking, history, and recreation

Devils Backbone Camp

30 Three Ridges Lane, Roseland www.dbbrewingcompany.com/camp-at-basecamp-2/

Fauquier County Sky Meadows State Park

11012 Edmonds Ln., Delaplane 540-592-3556; SkyMeadows@dcr.virginia.gov www.dcr.virginia.gov/state-parks/sky-meadows This hike in/pack in primitive camping experience with miles of hiking trails begins with a one-mile easy trail to the 15 standard tent sites and the 3 group tent sites. Campers can enjoy a beautiful hike on the Appalachian Trail which runs from Georgia to Maine. The park and its trails provide breathtaking views. Amenities include pit toilets, tent pads, picnic tables, bear-proof lockers, lantern hooks, a fire pit with a small grate, and one water pump.

Fauquier County’s Wildlife Management Areas

www.dwr.virginia.gov/wma/ CF Phelps (Sumerduck); Weston (Warrenton); Thompson (Paris) Another truly primitive camping experience, camping is allowed, but not organized, at the Wildlife Management Areas. Access permits are required. There are no amenities and no designated sites. The CF Phelps, Thompson WMA, and Western WMA areas each offer various opportunities to enjoy the outdoors from fishing and boating to wildlife observation and birding. WHILE YOU’RE IN FAUQUIER COUNTY... Where to eat: Hunter’s Head Tavern, Ashby Inn, Claire’s at the Depot

Where to drink: Delaplane Cellars, Rogers Ford Farm Winery, Grey Horse Vineyards, Barking Rose Brewery, Wild Hare Cidery What to do: Hollins Farm pick your own produce, Historic Middleburg, fishing at Sky Meadow’s Turner Pond, horseback riding at Royal Horseshoe Farm, exploring historic Aldie Mill, Gold Mining Museum and Monroe Park Alternative accommodations: Ashby Inn, Chilton House, Inn at Kelly’s Ford, The Rooms Up There

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Nelson County

| AUTUMN 2020

Encompassing 71 acres, Devils Backbone Campground offers 25 full RV sites, 22 standard non-electric sites, and 24 primitive tent sites which are all dog-friendly. Luxury homes are also available for rent. All sites include a fire ring, grill top, picnic table, and access to the bath house. With the brewery and distillery on site, it’s been referred to as an adult Disneyland.

Sipping f

Montebello Camping and Fishing Resort www.montebellova.com 15072 Crabtree Falls Hwy., Montebello

Located high in the mountains near the Blue Ridge Parkway, this resort is a family-owned full service campground with beautiful views of the mountains and a private lake. Bring your tent, RV, or rent a cabin, and plan on fishing in the fee based stocked trout pond (no license required). The country store is an experience of its own, offering many unique gift items, memorabilia, camping & fishing supplies, fuel, groceries, and firewood.

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WHILE YOU’RE IN NELSON COUNTY... Where to eat: Devils Backbone Basecamp Brewpub, Mac’s Country Store, Basic Necessities, The Fountain Room at the Mt. Addy Inn Where to drink: Devils Backbone Basecamp Brewpub, Brent Manor Vineyards, Silverback Distillery, Blue Mountain Brewery, Wild Man Dan Brewery, Afton Mountain Vineyards What to do: Discovery Ridge Adventure Center, White Rock Falls, Crabtree Falls, Swannanoa Mansion Crabtree Falls, Natural Bridge, Walton Mountain Museum, birding and wildlife trail Alternative Accommodations: Fenton Inn, Boxley Place Inn B&B

Louisa County Small Country Campground 4400 Byrd Mill Road, Louisa www.smallcountry.com

Situated on 150 acres in Louisa, Small Country Campground has a wide range of sunny, shaded and partially shaded

The Camping Issue

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sites available, from primitive tent sites to RV sites and cabins and park model rentals available for those who want the RV experience but don’t own one. Amenities include a bath house, convenience camp store, laundry, wifi, fire pits, pool, mini golf, a 25-acre lake and lake toys, hiking, playgrounds, and boats and fishing. The campground is especially appealing for families with children who love the miniature golf course. A manor house is available for rent for those seeking a little more luxury.

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Located right next to one of Virginia's most popular lakes, Lake Anna State Park offers a number of recreational activities as well as a chance to explore history. The campsites are absolutely beautiful, with breathtaking views of Lake Anna, and are spaced out to ensure a relaxing atmosphere. Both lodges and cabins have rustic furniture, a complete kitchen, and access to bathhouses. The park has many lake-centered activities, such as swimming, fishing, and boating. It also has over 15 miles of trails that can be used for hiking and biking. Planned weekend activities are scheduled throughout the season. WHILE YOU’RE IN SPOTSYLVANIA COUNTY Where to eat: Callie Opie’s Orchard Restaurant, Tim’s at Lake Anna Where to drink: Lake Anna Winery, Cooling Pond Brewery, Coyote Hole Ciderworks

What to do: Lake activities at Lake Anna, Colchester Equines, Orange Trolly rides at Lake Anna, North Anna Nuclear Information Center Alternative Accommodations: Boxley Place Inn

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Shenandoah National Park

Albemarle County Misty Mountain Camp Resort

56 Misty Mountain Road, Greenwood www.mistymountaincampresort.com This 50-acre resort offers the full range of camping opportunities, including cabins, RVs, primitive tents, bunkhouses, and glamping tents (coming soon). Sites include access to two modern bath houses with hot water, a fire ring, and a picnic table. One of the more bustling campgrounds, many recreational options exist for both children and adults. The resort is pleasant and calming, yet conveniently located near Shenandoah National Park.

he Park is arguably one of the best places to camp in the area and one of the best places to explore and enjoy the wilderness without distractions. With over 200,000 acres of protected land and 500 miles of trails, the Park is a quieter place to enjoy broad starry nights and breathtaking mountaintop views, as well as trails to waterfalls and other wilderness wonders. Opportunities for hiking and observation of wildlife and wildflowers abound. Backcountry camping is an option, as is tent or RV camping at one of the five campgrounds just off Skyline Drive. More information at nps.gov/shen Perfectly positioned on the Shenandoah River, this campground is known for its clean and peaceful sites. All 57 tent sites have a fire pit, picnic table, and access to public bathrooms. The campground is just minutes away from popular local attractions such as Shenandoah National Park and Luray Caverns. Canoe, kayak, and tube rentals are available very close by, as well as fishing and swimming opportunities. Polite, quiet, leashed pets are welcomed.

WHILE YOU’RE IN ALBEMARLE COUNTY... Where to eat: Crozet Pizza, Smoked Kitchen & Tap, Farmhouse at Veritas, Fardowners, The Green Leaf Grill, Sam’s Hot Dog Stand

WHILE YOU’RE IN WARREN COUNTY... Where to eat: Pavemint Taphouse, Front Royal Brewing Company, Truss’d, Talk of the Mountain Seafood

What to do: The Batesville Market, Virginia Discovery Children’s Museum, Chiles Peach Orchard, Shenandoah National Park, Waynesboro War Fields

What to do: River sports, Fantasyland Park (children), Cedar Creek and Belle Grove National Historic Park, Skyline Drive

Where to drink: Pro Re Nata Brewery, King Family Vineyards, Pollak Vineyards

Alternative Accommodations: Wildmandan Beercentric Bed and Breakfast

Alternative Accommodations: Mountain Home B&B and “Cabbin”, Glen Gordon Manor

Prince William County

Warren County Gooney Creek Campground

7122 Stonewall Jackson Highway, Front Royal www.gooneycreek.com The main attraction of this small, rustic campground with RV and primitive tent sites is its close proximity to the Shenandoah River and the northern entrance to Skyline Drive, as well as the restaurants and shops in the nearby town. Canoe, kayak, and tube rentals are available very close by, as well as fishing and swimming opportunities. The site is located directly on the creek, allowing campers to admire the relaxing atmosphere. Polite, quiet, leashed pets are welcomed.

Low-Water Bridge Campground

Low-Water Bridge Campground, 192 Panhandle Rd, Bentonville, VA 22610 www.lowwaterbridgecampgrounds.com 22 PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

Where to drink: Front Royal Brewing Company, Backroom Brewery, Desert Rose Winery, Dida’s Distillery, Filibuster Distillery

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Greenville Farm Campground www.greenvillecampground.com 14004 Shelter Lane, Haymarket

Housed on a 200 acre working farm, this 43 acre campground is mostly wooded. The 150 sites range from primitive tent sites to RV sites with full hookup and include access to a bath house with hot water, picnic tables, fire pits, a camp store, stocked fishing ponds, and a swimming pool (closed this year). WHILE YOU’RE IN PRINCE WILLIAM COUNTY Where to eat: Eugene’s Sausage and Fries, Byblo’s, Jimbo’s Grill Where to drink: The Winery at La Grange, The Winery at Bull Run, Solace Brewery, The Farm Brewery at Bull Run, Murlarkey Distillery What to do: Milla’s Playland (children), Leesburg Animal Park (children) Aldie Mill, Manassas Battlefield, Udvar-Hazy Center (Aviation Museum), Burnside Farms Alternative accommodations: Inn at Evergreen, Manassas Junction B&B

The Camping Issue

Things to Consider

Clarke County

COVID Policies: This article includes features of the campgrounds that are available normally; be sure to check websites carefully before visiting to check their COVID policies.

Watermelon Park

3322 Lockes Mill Road, Berryville www.watermelonpark.com Located on 27 idyllic acres on the Shenandoah River, Watermelon Park has spacious riverside primitive tent sites as well as full hookup RV sites. The property features a camp store, bath house with showers, and tube and kayak rentals on the Shenandoah River. This is the live music venue site of the popular annual Watermelon Park Fest as well as other live music events throughout the season. WHILE YOU’RE IN CLARKE COUNTY Where to eat: Sweet Basil Thai Cuisine, Horseshoe Curve Restaurant, The Village Market, The Berryville Grille Where to drink: Bear Chase Brewing Company, B Chord Brewing, Bluemont Vineyard, Twin Oaks Tavern Winery

What to do: Watermelon Park river sports, Shenandoah Valley Children’s Discovery Museum, Burwell Morgan Mill, Mackintosh Fruit Farm

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Bears: Be sure to research bear safety procedures for storing food and trash, and for general safety information. Comfort Level Expectations: Camping sites and campgrounds can vary wildly, from extremely rustic to glamping, so research your destination carefully. For instance, some campgrounds have only outhouses or bathhouses with older plumbing that will disappoint if you’re looking for a facility that looks like a Kohler commercial. Another thing to consider is privacy — how close the sites are to each other. A good place to start research is on a community camping facebook group where you can ask questions and will find opinions from those who have been there. Consideration: Be sure to be considerate of other campers,

wildlife, and the natural environment. Take nothing but photos, and leave nothing but footsteps.

Alternative accommodations: Historic Rosemont Manor, Waypoint House Bed and Breakfast

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Firewood: Due to the parasite emerald ash borer, which threatens ash trees, many sites do not allow you to bring your own firewood but will have some on site for purchase.

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What’s for dinner It doesn’t have to be just hot dogs STORY, PHOTOS, AND RECIPES BY KAITLIN HILL

s weather cools and leaves change, many Piedmont Virginians load their packs and head outside for a weekend of camping in our region’s great outdoors. Whether hiking, fishing, or simply sleeping under the stars is calling your name, here are a few recipes you can cook at your campsite as fuel for your adventure. My Easy Campfire Chili, Cast Iron Cornbread, and Apple Crumb Foil Packets all come together more easily than assembling a tent, and can be cooked over smoldering embers or a portable propane stove. Or maybe you prefer to stay home and appreciate nature from your kitchen window. Don’t worry, the oven works too. If you are going to take these recipes for a hike, I recommend doing the prep work of chopping and measuring at home, so after a long day of outdoor exploration, you just have to heat your pan, mix the ingredients, and dust off your spork before digging in.

24 PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

EASY CAMPFIRE CHILI Serves: 4 – 6

Ingredients

6 slices of bacon, chopped ½ yellow onion, diced 1 jalapeño, seeded and finely chopped 1½ tablespoons of chili powder 1 tablespoon of cumin 2 teaspoons of garlic powder 1 teaspoon of paprika salt, to taste 1 pound of ground beef 3 tablespoons of tomato paste 1 can (14 ounces) of fire-roasted tomatoes 2 cans (14 ounces each) of pinto beans 2 cups of chicken broth Directions

Prepare ahead at home: 1. Measure out all the spices and mix together 2. Pre-chop the, bacon, onion, and jalapeño. 3. Store in easy plastic containers or ziplocks to transport to campsite.

| AUTUMN 2020

At the campsite: 1. If cooking outside, place a 10-inch cast iron skillet over still-hot embers; otherwise, over a burner set at medium heat. Add the bacon. 2. Cook the bacon until crispy and remove from the pan. Set aside and reserve. 3. Add the chopped onion and jalapeño. Cook for 4 – 6 minutes (depending on your heat source) until the vegetables are tender. 4. Add the pre-measured spice mix and a generous pinch of salt and cook for a minute until fragrant. 5. Put the ground beef in the hot pan and break it up with a spoon. Season with salt and cook until completely browned, about 8 – 10 minutes (depending on your heat source). 6. Add the tomato paste, fire-roasted tomatoes, beans, bacon, and broth. 7. Simmer the chili for 30 – 40 minutes 8. Enjoy immediately with your favorite toppings. Cook’s Note: If you prefer your chili on the milder side, just add a little less of the spice mixture or omit the jalapeño.

The Camping Issue

Cast Iron Cornbread

Apple Crumb Foil Packets

Ingredients 1½ sticks of unsalted butter ½ cup of maple syrup 2¼ cups of buttermilk 3 eggs 1½ cups of yellow cornmeal ½ cup of all-purpose flour 1½ tablespoons of baking powder 1 teaspoon of salt ½ teaspoon of baking soda

Ingredients: 3 – 4 small apples (I use Honeycrisp) 1 tablespoon of cornstarch 2 tablespoons of granulated sugar ¼ cup of brown sugar 2 teaspoons of cinnamon ¼ teaspoon of cloves Crumb Topping: ¼ cup of oats ¼ cup of all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons of cinnamon ¼ cup of brown sugar pinch of salt ½ stick of butter, cold and cubed

Serves: 4 – 6

Directions Prepare ahead at home: 1. Mix the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda and pack together to take with you. 2. Pre-measure the buttermilk and maple syrup and store together in an airtight container. At the campsite: 1. If cooking outside, place a 10-inch cast iron skillet over still-hot embers from your campfire. Otherwise, place the cast iron on the stovetop over medium heat and preheat your oven to 350°F. 2. Melt the butter in the skillet, then pour it off into a large bowl and set aside to cool. Don’t wipe out the skillet, leave the residual layer of butter in there. 3. Once the butter in the bowl has cooled slightly, add the maple syrup and buttermilk. Whisk to combine. 4. Next, whisk in the eggs. 5. Add the dry ingredients and whisk to combine. 6. Pour the batter into the cast iron, cover with foil, and bake until an inserted toothpick comes out clean. Baking time will depend on the heat of your embers, but check it at 20 minutes. It could take up to 35 minutes. If baking indoors, leave uncovered and place in the oven to bake for 25 - 30 minutes until golden. 7. Cool slightly before slicing and serving.

Serves 4

Directions Prepare ahead at home: 1. Mix the cornstarch, sugar, brown sugar, cinnamon, and cloves and store together to bring with you 2. Make the crumb topping ahead by mixing the oats, flour, cinnamon, brown sugar, and salt together. 3. Add the cubed butter and toss to coat it in the dry mixture. Using your fingers, rub the butter into the dry mixture until it is the size of peas. Store this mixture in your cooler until ready to use. At the campsite: 1. Dice the apples and add to a large bowl. Add the cornstarch mixture and toss to coat. 2. Divide the apple mixture between four pieces of aluminum foil that are each roughly 12x18-inches in size. 3. Next, divide the topping into four equal portions and top each packet with a portion of crumb topping. 4. Wrap the foil over itself and tightly seal the edges. 5. If you are baking over a campfire, throw the packets on top of still-hot embers and bake for 15 – 20 minutes, turning every few minutes for even cooking. Otherwise, place the packets in a 350°F oven for 15 – 20 minutes until the apples are tender and the mixture is bubbling. 6. When finished cooking, remove the packets from heat, let cool slightly and enjoy with ice cream or whipped cream.

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| AUTUMN 2020 25

Finally, your best friend can come along From travel trailers to pup tents, camping with your dog can be fun and rewarding! BY ED FELKER

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| AUTUMN 2020

PHOTO BY ED FELKER

veryone who has a dog will eventually plan something and ponder, “Should we take him?” Even a simple outing by car to a nearby park requires planning, from vehicle safety to determining the basics to bring along for your four-legged pal. Make it an overnight trip even to the most dog-friendly hotel and considerations grow exponentially – food, sleeping arrangements, what to do with him if the humans go out to dinner – all need to be sorted out ahead of time. There are unknowns too, of course. A dog new to hotels may find it difficult to understand all the activity in the “house” they’re staying in. A busy hotel with doors opening and closing and people talking in the hallway can turn a relaxing getaway into a fitful night for all. “The addition of the family dog can add a new and fun element to camping so long as proper preparation occurs,” says Kelly Connoley-Phillips, long-time outdoor enthusiast, camper and dog mama. “Make sure you have all the things that your pet is used to having at home.” This includes food measured out for the duration of your camp plus extra, plenty of fresh water, bowls, leash, cleanup tools for waste, treats, towels, and toys. It’s

also a good idea to test out sleeping arrangements ahead of time, making sure your dog finds a tent, travel trailer, or sleeping bag as much fun as you do. Just because a campground is in the woods or at a park doesn’t mean there aren’t rules, of course. Animal trainer Charlotte Wagner Harvey offers some logistical considerations. “First, make sure the camp sites are dog-friendly,” she says. “In national parks, some protective wildlife areas allow human foot traffic but don’t permit dogs.” It’s every dog owners’ responsibility to know where their dog is allowed, and the great outdoors is no exception. Some campgrounds may have breed restrictions as well, so check before you book. When environmental educator and animal trainer Liz Thompson takes her Golden Retriever, General Lee, camping, she makes safety her top priority. “Most campsites require dogs to be on a leash at all times and many parks have restrictions regarding which trails dogs can go on,” she said. “These rules are in place for the safety of the dog, liability mitigation for the park or campground, and protection of wildlife and the environment.” But when camping on private property, as she did the first time she took along General, as he is called, she knew an absence of leash rules didn’t mean a free-for-all. “General already had great leash manners, and I knew it would be more Above: Finn, a pleasant for both of us if he could be offWirehaired Vizsla leash as much as possible,” Liz said. But owned by Ed Felker, poses by even well trained dogs have room for some the campfire. tune up. “In the month or so leading up

The Camping Issue

PHOTOS BY ED FELKER AND KELLY CONNOLEY-PHILIPS

Camping is a natural for German Wirehaired Pointer Ripp who, like most hunting dogs, absolutely loves being outdoors. Ripp belongs to Shawn Story.

to the camping weekend, we spent a lot of time working on recall and other long distance commands.” Liz worked with him until she was confident in his recall. “I was not leaving things up to chance,” she said. Where leashes are required, make sure you have a spare, as well as one long enough to use as a tether at the campsite. If camping in a travel trailer, exercise pens can be a great option. “You can make a little yard for your camper,” Charlotte said. “Just make sure you block off below the unit as well.” But exercise pens and tethers tied to picnic tables are not an alternative to supervising your dog. Even the most well behaved dogs can run into trouble while camping. Kelly has encountered a skunk and an aggressive, unleashed dog that attacked her dog. But less obvious hazards abound at the campsite. “Make sure to use caution with foods that are harmful for your pet – especially s’mores,” she warns. “After dark it’s often easier to drop things that quickly become unintended pup snacks.” On that first camping trip with General, Liz felt she had thought of everything but was surprised when General had trouble grasping the concept of fire. “He was clearly very confused about why we kept putting perfectly good fetching sticks into the shiny pile of light,” she recalled, laughing about it now. “At one point he got up and, before I could make a sound, snagged a branch that was protruding at the edge and pulled, scattering ash and Kelly Connoleyembers everywhere.” Phillips and her Luckily the flurry of son Luke love sparks startled him camping with and he dropped the Kelly’s blue healer stick, and he was Roxi and new pup unharmed by the Scout, an Aussie/ border collie mix. ordeal.

A final word about safety while traveling with a dog, whether you’re backcountry camping or staying at a posh hotel: before you leave home, take a moment to look up the closest emergency veterinarian, and pack a basic canine first aid kit. But don’t let all the talk about safety and preparation and checklists and extra stuff to pack scare you off. When you’re out in the wilderness with a crackling fire in front of you, the stars above, and your best friend by your side, you’ll be more relaxed knowing you’re ready for anything. Years ago I was camping with my two Wirehaired Vizslas, Winnie and Finn, for the first time in a comfy truck tent parked on a friend’s property in rural Madison County. We ate like royalty and exercised like fiends and fished like our lives depended on it. The weather was perfect, the fire roared and I went to sleep full and happy and early. When I was awakened in the middle of the night by the chilling, yap-scream-bark of a nearby pack of coyotes, I was astonished that my dogs were already up and alert, staring silently out the window in the direction of the eerie menace. I joined them at the window and there we were, three of us on all fours, staring through the mesh into the black night and listening. I thought about why my dogs didn’t bark, and settled on the only explanation I could think of: they didn’t want to give away our location. We were always completely safe, and the experience haunted us for only a few minutes before we all fell fast asleep again. Although admittedly the rest of that night we all slept just a bit closer together. In fact, I think we’ve been a bit closer together ever since. Camping is not for every dog any more than it is for every person. But if you, your dog and a bit of wilderness are a good match, do the research, do the prep, make your list, and go. The company of dogs is richer outdoors, and the outdoors is richer with the company of dogs.

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| AUTUMN 2020 27

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Autumn Hikes in the Piedmont Get acquainted with what the Piedmont has to offer

le b Ta t r

A h ing y aD

BY LEONARD M. ADKINS

Tysons to Welcome The Mather, Its First Life Plan Community

communities and want to stay connected—

UNCOMMON ACCOMMODATIONS looking for a more urban, walkable lifestyle

The quiet beauty of Prince William Forest Park is all the more remarkable because of its proximity to heavily-populated Washington, D.C. In addition to picnic areas, campgrounds, rental cabins, and a backcountry campsite, it has nearly 40 miles of trails passing through a forest that has been maturing since the park’s 1936 establishment. The moderately easy terrain undulates by an old pyrite mine, two waterfalls marking the Piedmont’s passage intoequipped the Tidewater, and home technology and with smart ysons, Virginia, will soon welcome : comes the oldits orchards and cemetery of a Commuformer efarm site. with an automation hub that can be first-ever Life Plan

of Air our b fa Pie nbs vori dm in t te on he t

in a location they love, with culture, sports, the arts and entertainment options that are easily accessible.” “The location is great, and it’s an area I feel comfortable in, where I’ll be closer to my daughter,” said Lynn Pivik, a depositor at The Mather who currently lives in Bethesda. “I like that The Mather will be brand new! It’s appealing to have all those choices, n 8393 Westand Main Marshall, ur s of integrated with smartphones, tablets, nity: a $450-million-plus developtheStreet, size of the units, someVA, of the20115 interior fino n oryhome computer systems. b l o i ment called The Mather that just began e ishes—like a heated bathroom floor.” t t W era his1 540.364.5343 | theroomsupthere.com “While people want to downsize, they construction, with anticipated nPhase The Mather will be the first Life Plan & e e completion in 2023. The community 8 g om is the also want to be able to host guests,” said Community in Tysons. Life Plan Commuh 80-year- Morgan. “Many of the homes feature multilatest offering by Mather, a nearly lifestyle communities in which Centuries before Lakenities AnnaareState Park (south of Culpeper) as dual masters old not-for-profit organization dedicated ple baths designed to work people can pursue new passions and prioriwas created in the 1970s, the area was home to Native Americans or private guest suites.” to creating Ways to Age Well.SM ties, with a plan in place that supports and early settlers. Later, iron furnaces processed local ore, aaging gold Entrance fees start at $646,700 and are well. They provide an important benefit: a “The Mather will offer apartment homes rush lasted from 1830 to for those age 62+ with innovative smart dependent upon apartment size, location, continuum of living options, which enand plantations flourhome technology, amenity-rich communi- service package and health plan selected. ables people to1850, plan ahead for access on-site ished like before the nursing Civil War. ty spaces, and luxury of a different kind for Unlike a home purchase that can fluctuate health care services skilled and Numerous trails allow visithose who wish to plan ahead to live life to in value, the entrance fee is 90% refundable. memory support, if ever needed. tomy roam the 2,400 about acres, Building upon Mather’s decades of expethe fullest,” said Gale Morgan, Senior Vice “I’m able totors make own decision rience and success in providing residences what I want,” President of Mather. discovering said Pivik.natural “I canbeauties always The Mather, located on Westpark Drive and services for older adults, The Mather change my mind, I go toreminders bed at night and but finding of near Tysons Galleria, will include two resi- is expected to provide significant public knowing thatpast I have a plan, and human activity. I’m not dential buildings, one with 186 homes and benefits to Tysons and Fairfax County with leaving anything to chance.” Drive, a publicly the other with 114 homes, which are connect- added retail on Westpark reservations are Falls currently beDepending on the sourcePriority you consult, Crabtree in Neled by a multi-story concourse with commu- accessible urban park with nearly three ing accepted for Phase 2 of The Mather, and son County drops anywhere from 500 feet to 1,200 feet. No nity spaces as well as first-floor retail. Other acres of green space, employment opportu- deposits are being accepted on Phase 1. Primatter which is correct, on-campus amenities include a fitness center nities, and a commitment to sustainability, ority Members will have best choice in seknow that this is suchlecting an an apartment home and view; they certification. featuring an exercise studio and large indoor as it will seek LEED Gold impressive waterfall The Mather has received strong inter- that pool, multiple restaurants, a cocktail lounge, can also secure preconstruction prices and the nearly U.S. 70% Forest est and Phase 1 is already sold,Service and three acres of outdoor space. customize and upgrade apartment home Fields andare forests with of elevation differences of 1,200 feet ensure abun- from hassurrounding lavished much atdrawing depositors Vir- finishes. There a variety sophisticated apartInterested individuals can become ginianear communities, mentwildflowers homes within The Mather, ranging in Park dant in Sky Meadows State Paris from including tentionMcLean, upon it.Ar-Graded Priority Members by providing a fully relington, Falls Vienna, as well as size upto to fall. 3,000 square feet. Each apartment fundable $1,000 deposit. The next step winter Skunk cabbage appears by mid-February, and Church, cutleaf and switchbacks, wooden Washington, D.C. and Maryland. home is designed with a modern open floor would be to select an apartment home and toothwort and rue anemone bloom in early April, followed by violets, steps, and native stone “Our depositors are well-traveled and plan and floor-to-ceiling windows to maxiplace a 10% deposit on it. spring beauties, and chickweed. Soon afterward, wooded areas become observation decks ease looking for a diverse community that will mize natural light, along with a gourmet their most colorful—pink wild geranium grows above corydalis’ yel- the 1.5-mile ascent of kitchen that will appeal to even the most support their continued personal growth For more information about The Mather, or to low trumpets and mayapple’s white flowers droop below green foliage. 1,000 feet. If you’re feelseasoned cook—with custom finishes, in- with programming, fitness, concierge ser- become a Priority Member, please visit www. In summer, jimsonweed dots road banks and daisies and crown-beard ing a bit lazy, the first cascluding gas top ranges and pull-out/soft- vices, and educational opportunities,” said TheMatherTysons.com, call (703) 348-8522, or thrive in meadows. Touch-me-nots bloom mullein cade is reached within five Morgan.and “They are interested in their local close pot drawers and pantries. And eachin is September email info@themathertysons.com.

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preservation

A ‘ merica’s Routes’ Recognized Preservation of Loudoun County’s historic roads takes big steps forward BY EMILY HOUSTON • PHOTOS BY DOUG GRAHAM

oudoun County’s 300-year-old rural road network has received significant recognition as a valuable historic asset. In June, the Virginia Department of Historic Resources (VDHR) declared the roads officially eligible for listing on the Virginia Landmarks Register and the National Register of Historic Places, at its quarterly meeting of VDHR’s State Review Board. The usual historic site gaining support from VDHR is a building, a battlefield, a structure or set of structures with a specific role in historic time periods, or the lives of residents. The concept of determining an entire network of hundreds of miles of roads eligible for the high state and national honor was quite novel for the state organization. There was little precedent in Virginia and around the United States, though in 2002, one section of the old roads, in southwestern Loudoun, was declared a County Historic District by the Loudoun Board of Supervisors. In May, Preservation Virginia listed the roads on its “Most Endangered Historic Sites” list for 2020, but the designation by VDHR demonstrates the value the state puts on these roads as a “living museum” with three centuries of history woven into the twists and turns of these humble byways. VDHR’s determination that the road network is eligible for listing on the Virginia and National Registers of Historic Places required clear demonstration of both their historic significance and physical integrity. Professional preservationist Jane Covington, who has generated many successful applications for State and National Register listings in Loudoun (including most recently the placement of 30 PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

| AUTUMN 2020

the village of Willisville on the National Register), led the effort on behalf of America’s Routes. America's Routes (as reported on in the Autumn 2019 issue of Piedmont Virginian) is a local group dedicated to celebrating Loudoun's rural roads and cultivating their appreciation as an historic asset. Covington’s several years’ long work with the VDHR staff was based on careful and extensive research, building a clear case for the network’s historic significance and physical integrity. The document approved by VDHR demonstrated the crucial role the road network had in our migration, agricultural and cultural patterns of life in Loudoun’s three centuries of history. As Covington’s submission indicated, Loudoun’s old roads predate America, carved out of the hilly terrain by early settlers who built prosperous agricultural communities. Terrible wars, slavery and the struggle for freedom, the coming of the automobile, and the modern era of commuters living side by side with farmers, all make the history embedded in the roads the tale of a very American experience. Further, her research clearly showed that despite generations of grading, repairs, and adjustment the routes and alignments of Loudoun’s old roads still authentically capture their long history of supporting the county’s communities and economy. According to Covington, “Loudoun County's 2019 Comprehensive Plan acknowledges the importance of the county's historic roads to the character of the rural landscape of western Loudoun.” She notes that the Comprehensive Plan recognizes their importance for recreational use by walkers, bicyclists, and equestrians. Local elected officials have expressed their support for America’s Routes’ effort to highlight the roads’ historic value and garner support for their preservation. “Now, more than ever,” she says, “this unique feature of our county combines our need to celebrate history with our need for useful recreational spaces.” The need for these gravel roads to function as part of a transportation network in the 21st century has highlighted the quandary of how to preserve them as authentic historic assets without succumbing to the demands for high-speed travel. Of the 700 miles of public roads in western Loudoun’s Rural Policy Area, more than one third are unpaved. The roads are under pressure from increasing traffic, but VDOT is experimenting with new materials and techniques to help preserve them and provide safe and reliable transportation. As Covington stated, “This recognition bestowed by VDHR may help ensure their future.”

The work of Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Routes to document and celebrate Loudounâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rural roads is ongoing. See the website (americasroutes. com) for information on its continuing initiatives. Donations are tax-deductible.

MUSIC & ARTS

The Barns of Rose Hill A world-class arts experience on a regional level BY LINDA ROBERTS AND ED FELKER

istoric downtown Berryville – along with nearly every place in America, of course – has changed a great deal in the last hundred years. But it hasn’t changed so much that a visitor from the early 20th century wouldn’t recognize the place. Countless old homes and businesses still stand. The railroad, so vital to the history and prosperity of the town, still runs along Station Road on the town’s eastern edge. And just off Main Street, close to the center of town, a majestic pair of dairy barns still rises skyward from the gently rolling terrain. But the dairy barns no longer house milk cows. Due to the generosity and vision of the owners who donated the estate to the town and the hard work of a dedicated group of supporters, the barns have been renovated and repurposed to enrich lives through the performing, visual, and literary arts. The resulting facility more than delivers on that score as a stunning performing arts and community center that rivals the larger, well-known venues in Northern Virginia. The walls of the Great Hall now ring with the sounds of widely diverse genres of music including, but by no means limited to, Americana, old-time, folk, roots, blues, bluegrass, jazz, and classical by a highquality lineup of local, national, and international musicians who are drawn to the excellent acoustics of the building. Rotating art and photography exhibits brighten the lower gallery, and films, in conjunction with the Magic Lantern of Winchester, bring in movie buffs. THE BEGINNING The Barns of Rose Hill bustled with the activity of a working dairy farm until the 1950s. Horace G. Smithy donated the estate, which included the barns and a

32 PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

brick mansion, to the Town of Berryville in 1964 in honor of his late wife, Rosalie McCormick Smithy. It was to be used for “the educational, recreational, and cultural benefit of the community,” which, it turns out, is not as simple a thing as it may have sounded in 1964.

| AUTUMN 2020

Time took its toll, and the structures fell into disrepair. The mansion burned to the ground in 1978, but the barns remained standing, waiting for their next purpose, their next life. They would wait nearly fifty years after Mr. Smithy’s generous gift, but thanks to the dedication and munificence

MUSIC & ARTS

Left: The Barns of Rose Hill at dusk. Top right: We Banjo 3 Bottom Right: The Wilma Chewning Gallery Bottom Left: The Great Hall

PHOTOS BY AARON RIDDLE (MAIN) AND COURTESY BARNS OF ROSE HILL

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| AUTUMN 2020â&#x20AC;&#x192; 33

MUSIC & ARTS

Top: The Bumper Jacksons playing to a sold out audience Right: Furnace Mountain Band performs original and traditional music from the MidAtlantic region

34 PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

checklist, and she and a small board of devoted, forward-thinking community members tackled the job at full speed. It took seven years to raise the funds to meet the town’s requirements, and Individual donations, both large and small (one was $5 a month), combined with a U.S. Housing and Urban Development community grant, a Virginia Department of Historical Resources grant, and another from the Virginian Department of Transportation, laid the foundation for construction of the Barns. Later funding also came in the form of grants and gifts from private foundations such as the James R. Wilkins Sr. Family Foundation and the Monford D. & Lucy L. Custer Foundation. The Winchester Star

| AUTUMN 2020

and Clarke Courier gave their support by providing comprehensive media coverage. Once funding was in place, the Berryville architectural firm of Carter+Burton and Winchester-based H&W Construction stepped in to launch the project. THE RESULT Seven years of hard work and dedication have paid off, and the result is a stunning treasure. The two barns were combined into one expansive structure with every consideration given to acoustic engineering and modern amenities to accommodate concerts, art exhibits, films, workshops, and private events. But modern amenities and historic charm are not mu-

PHOTOS COURTESY BARNS OF ROSE HILL

of many folks at the heart of the project, the barns would live again. But the project to build this gem could easily have never gotten off the ground. The project to convert the barns was complicated by the town’s requirement that construction couldn’t start until funding was raised. There was some doubt that the community could raise enough funds to renovate old agricultural-use buildings into a performing arts center. Berryville resident Diana Kincannon, who has a master’s degree in voice and performed professionally in the 1970s and ‘80s before transitioning to the business world, was asked to lead a capital campaign in 2004. Doubt was never on Kincannon’s

MUSIC & ARTS

tually exclusive. In its skillful restoration, the character of the barns was thoughtfully preserved. High, lofted ceilings with exposed timbers and reclaimed barn wood on interior walls are not only visually astounding, but provide acoustics appreciated by performers and audiences alike. “The Great Hall of the Barns of Rose Hill is a superb listening room,” musician Ben Walters said of the venue’s superb clarity and sound quality. “When I go to listen, I know that I’ll be able to hang onto every note played.” Walters feels it is the best venue in the area for true music appreciators. “When I have played there, people go there to listen,” he added. “I know that the audience will hear everything I play, and will be paying attention.” “The Barns of Rose Hill has the class of Wolf Trap, with the community feeling of Clarke County,” Walters said. “It’s very much a gem for the area.”

TODAY AND TOMORROW The Barns is governed by a diverse board of 12 community members who focus their interest and skills on the facility’s optimization as a local and regional treasure. Executive Director Sarah Ames, a Clarke County native with an extensive background in business and project management; Program Director Morgan Morrison, a professional musician and promoter; and Director of Operations Nathan Borger, who grew up in Berryville and is experienced in non-profit management, musical directing, and sound management, run its daily operations. In a normal year, the Barns would draw more than 5,000 visitors to enjoy the diverse programs and events. Obviously, 2020 has been anything but a normal year. Concerns about COVID have business of all types rethinking what is practical, what is possible, and what is safe. The Barns of Rose Hill is no different. Online

performances and partnerships with other venues such as nearby B-Chord Brewing Co. are part of the plan to find a path forward in today’s “new normal.” The Barns of Rose Hill truly needs to be experienced in person, with all one’s senses, to be fully appreciated. But there is hope that lovers of music and the arts will support this wonderful venue, this gem, in any way possible for the time being. Donations and tickets to events now are like deposits paid for the promise of the future, of one day soon walking up the curved path to these historic barns with the joyous anticipation of smiling friends, the smell of wood, of bright instruments and clear, beautiful music waiting inside. The Barns of Rose Hill (540) 955-2004 barnsofrosehill.com

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ESSAY

Reflections on

FIERY RUN A longtime place of healing and refuge in Fauquier County BY JAMES RESTON, JR.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF JAMES RESTON, JR.

’m sitting in my cramped, knotty-pine office at the cabin in our splendid isolation, pondering the beautiful things. The first humming birds have arrived, and our old friend of years past, the phoebe, has returned to build her nest and raise her chicks over our porch floodlight. She flits her tail feathers in greeting as much as for balance. And my favorite, the clown, the garish red-headed woodpecker, is back. Last night, about 4 a.m., Posie barked, and we snuck downstairs with a flashlight in hopes of seeing the culprit that had been destroying our fancy bird feeders. And there he was, perfectly framed in our picture window, lumbering toward us. He was big and fat and he did not flinch when I splashed him with a beam of light. He swayed his enormous head from side to side indifferently, feeling, it seemed, entirely at home. Is he habituated, we wonder? As he waddled off into the darkness, we decide to call him Mortimer Snerd. But this morning we quickly lose our fuzzy sentimentality. The beast had utterly pulverized three cherished blue bird boxes, had

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overturned wooden benches and lawn chairs, and had carved an enormous divot in the roots of our distressed sycamore tree on the lawn. It was as if he had been in the grip of some primal rage. As a final insult, he left an enormous scat pile speckled with our bird seed. We remind ourselves that a bear is an apex predator, not a nice fellow at all, and needs to be given a wide berth. This was truly one bad news bear. We will be bringing our bird feeders indoors at night from now. There have been only—only!—five deaths in Fauquier County so far. In Rappahannock County, there are twelve cases of the disease and no deaths. As I write this, Hillary, our most vulnerable one, is asleep and snoring on the living room couch. We feel safe here and content to ride this thing out in situ. I congratulate myself for not being distractible, as are so many of my friends. I have a book to write. Family letters have been stashed out here forever, and there’s time now to focus on family. This morning, I open an old manila folder, brush away a stink bug and a dead fly, and come upon a letter dated May 12, 1947. It’s from my dad to the editor-in-chief of the Boston Herald. “Fortunately, Jim is better,” it reads. “There is perhaps another anxious week of waiting to make sure that the cracks in his skull develop some protection of their own.” The cracks in his skull. The phrase jumps out at me. It has been the butt of many bad jokes over the years. The letter goes on to describe my accident: how as a six-year-old I wandered down 34th Street in Georgetown, crossed busy Q Street to the small pocket park, and stood on the bank above the ball diamond to watch a softball game. There was a foul tip, the ball arced toward me, and smacked me square in the face. Half blinded and squalling, I turned around to bolt home, stepped onto Q Street and was struck by a city bus. These decades later I remember only my eyes flickering open for just a second, in the back seat of some Good Samaritan’s car. I’d been scooped up and driven to Georgetown Hospital. “The bus hit him dead on,” the letter continued, “and after one bounce he fell.” Bystanders were shouting at the confused bus driver to go either forward or backward. “By the grace of God, the bus passed over him without the first wheels hitting him. Jim was lying un-

The cabin at Fiery Run by Helen Costello

der the bus about a yard in front of the double rear wheels, and that yard undoubtedly saved his life.” I had suffered ten fractures of the skull, one running dangerously toward the sinus. The doctors worried about a hemorrhage that could cause an infection that might race to the brain. But I survived, and after weeks in the hospital, I finally came home. Somewhere there’s a picture of that convalescence. A crooked little body and swathes of wide gauze wrapped around my head like a casualty of the Spanish Civil War. Both my mother and father were out of town on the day. Mom was attending to her ailing father in Chicago, and Dad, against the rules, had flown to New York for the day to attend a session of the United Nations. Beyond their shock and grief, there was, I suspect, a major element of guilt. They had a pact that they would never be out of town at the same time. Later, Dad lamely pleaded that he was, after all, only going up to New York for the day. In the aftermath they were determined to “get the boys out of town to some safe place far away from the city streets.” After a

wide search they found Fiery Run, an 11-acre parcel in the foothills of Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia, surrounded by the 3,000 acre estate of a Belgian countess. She was a Rothschild by marriage, her husband having been part owner of the Bank of Belgium, before he had been swept away by the Nazis. She escaped to Fauquier County. By the side of its aptly named, vigorous stream there was a stone mill that had served the community in the 19th century well into the 20th. The ruins of its walls still stood, and next to it, the sturdy house of the miller, built in 1820, not far from the gravel road and a metal one-lane truss bridge. Across Fiery Run and over a three-acre pasture, up a hill, four walls of an abandoned log cabin with no roof beckoned. Before it became the miller’s blacksmith’s shop, it had been a slave cabin. Just up the gravel road a lone chimney stood in a cow pasture, the lone remnant of the shack where Robert Ford was raised, “that dirty little coward” as the 19th century folk song goes, the man who assassinated Jesse James. PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

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ESSAY

Right before my bus accident

Grandad Reston, my minder during my polio quarantine

They bought the place for $3,400 with a mortgage. A Warrenton architect found another abandoned cabin somewhere in the mountains, and joined the two together. For years the dual cabin had no running water or electricity. When I was strong and well enough after my accident, it was my job to carry out the honey pot from the airplane toilet and pour its contents into a lime pit down the lane. It took a lot of work to make the cabin livable. Along the way my mother was to remark that she was just carrying on the old slave tradition. Two years later when I was eight, the cabin had its first stint as a refuge. I’d been shipped off to Minnesota for a summer camp. A few weeks after I’d arrived there, polio broke out at the camp, and I had been exposed. In the late 1940s this was every parent’s nightmare, as fear of the highly contagious infantile paralysis gripped the country. The virus was at its peak in those years before 1955, the year Dr. Jonas Salk discovered the polio vaccine. Tens of thousands of children were infected; thousands horribly crippled, and thousands more died. In the papers there were pictures of children encased in that grotesque cage called an iron lung, little heads sticking out of a metal tube as if they were being cooked.

Soon enough, my favorite uncle stood before me, requesting that I pack my trunk quickly, for we were going for a fun ride. He was a tall, strapping man, who had been a champion gymnast at the University of Illinois and a World War II veteran. Then a reporter for the Chicago Tribune, he had my mother’s wonderful smile and sense of fun. He had rented a small plane to fly up there to pluck me out. That my uncle, apart from his other manly attributes, could actually be the co-pilot of an airplane made his heroic status soar even more. I was brought to Fiery Run for an extended quarantine. My 77-year-old grandad on my father’s side had stepped forward volunteering to mind me. He was a small, nimble, vigorous Scot with a ruddy face and wispy white hair. He was glad to serve the family and accept the risk, he told my folks, for he professed to have already lived a good life. It was not true. He had toiled and sweated in the Glasgow shipyards for years before he emigrated to the U.S. in 1909. Settling in Dayton, Ohio, as the vanguard of his family, he had been a machinist on the assembly line at the Delco Battery Company. After World War I, my grandmother came over with my dad and his sister, passing through Hoffman Island in New York for quarantine and vaccination against the

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ESSAY

Spanish flu pandemic that had infected one-third of the world’s population at the time and killed nearly 700,000 people. But life as a factory worker had hardly been a picnic, no matter what he represented to my parents. He may have been the hardest working man I ever knew. During those months of quarantine, my folks would show up at Fiery Run occasionally with provisions and clean clothes which they would hand over the fence on a long stick, and we would hand back my dirty clothes which, no doubt, they took home and boiled in lye. Grandad was a tireless worker, landscaping the lawn and tending his perfect garden. The sheep on the hillsides reminded him of Scotland. In the evening he sat on the porch humming Presbyterian hymns. The time was filled with tasks and rural delights. Once I joined the countess’s shepherd and watched in awe as lambs were born. I took my daily dose of large round pills the size of jawbreakers. It was a happy isolation. There is a tragic anecdote to this episode. Two years later Uncle Bill had moved to New York as the Tribune’s UN correspondent and lived in Cos Cob, Conn. One evening after his commute home from the city, he went for a summertime swim after dark in the Long Island Sound, got a chill, and contracted polio himself. Several years later I visited him in Cos Cob. That once tall, athletic, heroic man was now bent and twisted, lurching forward on two canes as he labored in his garden. But he still had that wonderful smile and impish sense of humor. I have often wondered if I bore some responsibility for his exposure. In 1982 when I had become a writer living in New York, I had the opportunity…and the honor…to interview Dr. Jonas Salk for a magazine article. Sitting before the inventor of the polio vaccine with a decided awe, I was sure he’d be bored to hear the story of my quarantine and my Uncle Bill’s tragedy. How many such stories had he heard? After a while, such sad stories must acquire a dull sameness. He then presided over the Salk Institute for Biological Studies in La Jolla, Calif., and his mind and his Institute had moved to questions of cancer research, population control, world poverty and nuclear conflict. The industrialist, Armand Hammer, was then offering a $1 million reward for any scientist who could come up with a vaccine for cancer similar to what Dr. Salk had done for polio. The Salk Institute was thought to be a contender. But Dr. Salk was scarcely riding on his laurels. He had become deeply interested in the philosophical, psychological, and social consequences of biological research. He believed the world was moving into a new epoch, in which there needed to be a wiser approach to human evolution. “I have begun to see things in a global way,” he told me. “to see the world as a whole, not just in numbers but in quality.” The half-year spent at Fiery Run after my three years in the army was also a kind of convalescence. My hitch between 1965 and 1968 coincided with the steep escalation of the Vietnam War. By my last year in the service, it was clear that the war was a disaster. Body counts and pointless assaults on forgettable hamburger hills and most of all, the Tet Offensive in January of PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

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1968 pointed to the abject failure of the whole enterprise. I had become increasingly uncomfortable with my tiny part in it all. I’d been living in a bubble for three years and I was coming home to a country that was intensely hostile to the Vietnam veteran. And so Fiery Run was the perfect retreat and refuge that might afford the time to readjust to civilian life. In that last year in the Army when I was stationed in an intelligence unit in Pearl Harbor, I began to write a novel. I would fly off to an outer island on the weekends and hole up in a hotel room to write. I was not the worst case. I was not suffering from PTSD or combat fatigue or shell shock. But I thought a novel might be a good way to work out my ambivalence and my alienation. I’d never written fiction before, but whatever literary shortcomings the work may have had, deep feelings made up for them somewhat. A close friend with whom I’d trained had been killed during the Tet Offensive. His letters to us spoke glowingly of his

Whispers about the Pentagon Papers: James Reston of the New York Times and Katherine Graham at my wedding.

post in a small villa on Ly Thuong Kiet Street in Hue. He was excited about his important work. I envied him his assignment, as I dithered and dallied at my desk job in Hawaii. His missives had a touch of Graham Greene in them, and Ron Ray was a bit like Aiden Pyle in Greene’s novel, The Ugly American. But intelligence from the MACV compound two blocks away about a coming NVA offensive had not filtered down to Ron’s villa. His death was pointless. He had not fired a shot. His death affected me deeply. I needed space and quiet and yes, isolation, to digest it. In 1969 as the war still raged and the casualty rate still soared, it was too soon for a Vietnam novel—1975 and beyond was the prime time for the genre. It was widely rejected in New York. But there was one positive response. A young editor at Viking had written me an encouraging rejection letter and offered to sit down with me to discuss its shortcomings. 40 PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

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Before I left my country retreat to drive to New York in September 1969, a story broke about a covert green beret operation that had discovered a double agent in its midst and had eliminated him “with extreme prejudice,” i.e. they had drugged him, wrapped him in chains, put him on a boat, where they shot him in the head and dumped his body in the South China Sea. The story had leaked outside of the chain of command, and six men were charged with premeditated murder. To my shock I read that Staff Sergeant Alvin L. Smith, Jr., was one of them. He had been the agent’s handler. I had served with “Pete” Smith in my intelligence unit in Hawaii, and I knew him well. To my further anger I read that the CIA was denying all responsibility for the incident. In an August 16 dispatch in the New York Times, the agency was quoted as asserting that “the agency had a strict policy of neither ordering, suggesting nor condoning assassinations. The CIA had no current authority over Defense Department personnel and therefore could not ‘order’ an assassination.” I knew this to be a lie. It was a blatant coverup. All lathered up, I sat down at the cabin and wrote a letter to the New York Times. “It is unthinkable that any covert operation could be run by the American military without the approval of the CIA,” I wrote. “Likewise, it is unthinkable that any severe termination with prejudice could be carried out without CIA’s approval, unless clear standing orders were disobeyed. It is amazing that the Army arrested these men for what has been modus operandi in the game of intelligence for years.” As I wended my way to New York, further reporting revealed that it had been Pete Smith himself who had opposed the assassination and had reported it to higher authority. Now in that company of killers, he feared for his own life. On the day my letter appeared in the Times, October 1, 1969, President Richard Nixon ordered that all charges against the murderers be dropped. The coverup was complete. Crestfallen but not surprised, and dispirited from my bittersweet editorial conference, I drove back south and opened my mailbox by that gravel road. Inside was a telegram. “Any chance of a book to follow your most interesting letter in the New York Times?” It was signed Evan Thomas. How could I know at that exhilarating moment that he was the legendary editor who had edited the authorized biography of JFK that had caused so much trouble? The novel was published in 1971. That same year, on the lawn of the cabin at Fiery Run I married a Bronx girl who has entertained and delighted me for 48 years. She was 23 then, wispy and feisty and street-wise, and I was a seasoned 29. When she tried on a wedding dress at Bonwit Teller and the clerk adjusted a white veil over her face, she had fainted dead away. The clerk allowed that this was not the first time that had happened. If she was dressed traditionally at our wedding, I wore a white turtleneck and a Hawaiian lay and blue bell bottom trousers, as if I was trying to make some sort of a statement. We read poetry to one another, I from John Donne: “I scarce believe my love to be so pure…” and Denise from e.e. cummings: “be unto love as rain is unto colour, create me gradually….” Rabbi Sam

ESSAY

Schrage from Crown heights in Brooklyn who had been our shadchan gave the Lesson. When I was to place the ring on her finger, the script called for her to read from the Song of Solomon. “Set me as a seal on your heart….” This time, she delivered her lines capably and did not faint. It was all a very 1960s affair in the early 1970s with bridesmaids in long paisley dresses and barefoot sitting on hay bales, listening to a country music band called Virginia Gentlemen, playing on the porch. Katherine Graham was in attendance. Later in her Personal History she referred to the wedding as “casual.” Naughtily, late in the day, my dad whispered to her that the Times would be publishing the Pentagon Papers the next morning. In the packed living room of the cabin, with rain starting to fall outside, there was only one telephone, and there was no way she could commandeer it to call the Post about her competitor’s scoop. In his columns in the New York Times during the 1970s and 80s, my father wrote an occasional column with the dateline, Fiery Run, Virginia. There is, of course, no town or village in Virginia called that, and so his musings seem to spring from some magical, idyllic hideaway. He noted that somehow these homespun columns got more reaction from readers than “most of my solemn epistles on the passing tangles in Washington.” They were often filled with mirth Getting hitched

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ESSAY

Mowing the pasture with Hillary

and self-deprecation. He referred to himself as a “certified mechanical incompetent.” His tomato plants always seemed to contract spotted fever, he moaned, and grew no larger than walnuts. One memorable column was a letter to the Burpee Seed Company. “To be honest about it,” he wrote, “I don’t see much hope of that ‘great tasting, fresh nutritious food’ you talked about which would, as you said, help our ‘household budget.’ Considering the cost of the garden tractor ($800) we had to buy, the roto-tiller, ($300) ‘Farmer Fred, the Friendly Scarecrow’ and other ”essentials,” such as your ‘Green Thumb Gloves’ (No. 9132-2), our supply-side budget has a larger deficit, per capita than David Stockman’s.” As my folks got older, managing the place began to be more of a chore. “Just as we got the place all neat and clean,” Dad said,“It was time to go back to town.” My mother was terrified of snakes, and she didn’t much like mice or flies either. They let me know that I should take a greater interest in the place or else, God forbid, they would consider selling it. And so, in the late 1970s, I would drive up from North Carolina where I was teaching creative writing at the university with my lawn tractor in the bed of my old pickup truck. Nevertheless, he passed the property on to my care wistfully. “The solid hills of Virginia seem to me eternal and peaceful,” he would write, “and I plan to spend a lot of time there in the next couple hundred years.” 42 PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

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illary is still sleeping soundly downstairs as I ponder all this. No seizure yet today. Her story is too bound up with the cabin. We had a video conference with her doctor yesterday about how to protect her as the economy opens up and we try to restore some variety to her life. With her underlying illness, she falls into the highest category of risk. Her story in a nutshell is this. After 10 years in North Carolina we moved to New York with two toddlers in the fold before Hillary turned up at New York Hospital. But despite some modest successes in my professional life, Brooklyn had become too expensive for us, and we bailed out once more for the refuge of Fiery Run. The winter of 1983 turned out to be the coldest in recorded history. Our porch thermometer registered eight below zero that January. We shut off the living room at the cabin and huddled around the wood stove next to the kitchen. When we could get out, I tamped down snow on a far-off slope with the jeep for a glorious long run for the kids. Hillary’s routine was to sit by the picture window and comment on the birds. She was, up until 18 months, the most verbal of our children with perhaps as many as 200 words. I was working on a play and thinking theatrically. One day Hillary wandered into the kitchen and then reappeared in the frame of the kitchen door as if it was a stage set from which the main character would make her first appearance. But this was a horror show. She shook and dropped to the floor with her first seizure. We rushed her to the country doctor in Marshall who acknowledged that there was something odd about her “swoon.” It was a romantic word, suggesting the Old South, but there was nothing romantic about this. Her seizure condition has persisted for 38 years. As we understood it then, an infernal virus had breached the blood barrier of her brain and attacked its language center. We watched her lose her words one by one, dwindling to the word ‘birdie,’ until there were none. That alone might qualify her now for that phrase we hear a lot, the vulnerable with “underlying health conditions.” But her intractable seizures are not how the coronavirus threatens her most. Three years later as we came to the top of the lane to the cabin, I looked at her in her car seat to notice how puffy she looked in both her face and her belly. It was the onset of the second major assault on her body. Perhaps caused by the valiant, aggressive efforts to control her seizures, her kidneys were failing. It would take another eight years before they failed completely, and another eight years after that on daily peritoneal dialysis before she got that miraculous transplant in Iowa. By virtue of having to take anti-rejection drugs every day, her immune system is suppressed; her resistance to disease is weak. The medicines she must take to avoid rejection tamp down her body’s immune response to any foreign invader. If she were to be exposed….I don’t want to think about it. The medical explanations do not encompass the emotional side: the love we cherish for her, nor do they describe the way she spreads joy in the community wherever she goes. I’ve read somewhere…and I believe it… that people like her are the closest to the angels. She has become the heart of our family. Her doc-

ESSAY

tor said to Denise recently, “You have done well to keep her alive this long.” And so we are again at Fiery Run, this magical place of calm and solitude. My bus accident, my polio scare, my transition to civilian life, my launch as a writer seem to pale in significance next to this current situation. As much as we are treated by wonderful natural things, nature everywhere is suggesting upsetting metaphors like the rage of that destructive bear. We climb on our beloved 1950s tractor we call Big Bertha. I put Hillary on my knee, and we begin to cut the pasture. I wince when I look at the ash trees in our woods that are blonding out and dying from ash borer disease. Thousands of these ash trees are dead and dying up in the Shenandoah National Park. We have already lost all our locust trees from a raging root fungus. I scan the skies for raptors, since the book I’m writing is about a king of Sicily in the 13th century who was a great falconer. I can distinguish now between long winged and short winged hawks, ones with straight tails and fantails, and I know which are the best hunters. Yet with my overburdened imagination the sightings seem to suggest a lighting attack by some evil creature with long claws, coming from nowhere to snatch my daughter. I try to push such fantasies away. Next week I’m invited to go canoeing on the Thornton River. My friend assures me that there is more than six feet distance between the paddlers in the bow and the stern.

The author in his study at the cabin. James Reston, Jr. is the author of 18 books. His novel about 9/11, “The Nineteenth Hijacker,” will be published next spring.

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ON THE FARM

Cherishing Chevre

Eighth-generation farmers offer fresh cheese and more at the family’s historic farm STORY AND PHOTOS BY KAITLIN HILL

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ith records pre-dating The Declaration of Independence, a Civil War-era stone house, and the designation of Century Farm, Georges Mill Farm in Lovettsville is certainly steeped in Virginia’s history. A 1774 petition indicates that the 150-acre property was owned by German immigrant John George who came to Loudoun in the 1750s. In the late 1860s, Samuel George, John’s grandson, built the stone house, which is still standing and is now a bed and breakfast, run by descendant Fran Wire. During the Civil War, the Sixth New York Cavalry made its headquarters at Georges Mill on the road to nearby Harper’s Ferry, and later it was the site of a notable Confederate raid in 1865. More recently, it is home to Sam and Molly Kroiz, eighth-generation Georges, and their popular farmstead cheese operation, 24/7 farm store, and so much more. “In grad school, I started making cheese as a hobby and I fell in love with it,” shares Molly Kroiz, who also met and fell in love with her now husband during that time. The

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couple met in Alaska where Kroiz was conducting fisheries research. They later moved to Washington state, which would further cement Kroiz’s desire to pursue professional cheese production. “Washington state, where we were living, has a lot of small scale dairy production, so I had seen it at work.” She continues, “I was really obsessed with cheese at that point…so we started scheming to see what we could do.” A desire to be closer to family would play a part in the Georges Mill Farm Artisan Cheese origin story too. Kroiz explains, “Sam was working construction, but it was the height of the recession, so there wasn’t really any work. We were both missing our Top: “The Goat March” Left: Molly Kroiz cuts into a round of cavalry camp ash, a bloomy rind cheese with ash. Right: Georges Mill started their operation in 2012 with four Alpine dairy goats. The herd now totals 40 and grazes over 15 acres of pasture.

ON THE FARM

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ON THE FARM

families on the East Coast, and we knew this area was about 10 years behind in the local food movement compared to the Pacific Northwest and New England. We decided, it was a good time to start something like that.” She laughs, “I quit my good government job, packed all my stuff in my Honda Civic, and drove home.” They started building the cheese operation in 2012, with Kroiz learning the ropes along the way. “We got four goats initially. And, I didn’t know anything about goats or cows. Neither of us had any farming experience, but I spent a year just making cheese, milking one of the goats, and just playing around. She adds, “Then that winter, we got 10 more goats, and have been growing a little bit every year.” As for the cheeses, “We started out just doing fresh cheeses, soft chèvre and some bloomy rind cheeses. We didn’t have the space to age cheeses so we started with just those. Oh, and feta. All fresh cheeses with quick turnovers.” The fall of 2016, Kroiz launched a Kickstarter to help her raise money to build a cheese cave for expanded production. And now, in her eighth season, she is milking 40 goats and offering a wider variety of cheeses. “The fresh cheese, I do some seasonal rotating, some seasonal flavors and the three we have all the time. And then the bloomy rinds, we have three that we do there. I am doing some experimenting with a washed rind with some beer.” She continues, “For the aged cheeses, they are totally separate from the fresh, pasteurized cheeses. I do a blue and a tomme. If I have enough milk, I’ll do a manchego-style.” Their cheese selections include everything from classic to adventurous. The Eula Blue is raw-milk-based and aged for 70 days in the cheese cave and their Grey Ghost Tomme, modeled after the French favorite, can age as long as six months. For fresh chèvre they offer plain, honey, herb, and garlic or seasonal flavors like ramps, roasted chili, strawberry, and even pumpkin spice. Cavalry Camp Ash gets its distinct flavor from a dusting of ash before aging and the Picnic Woods variety is rolled in Herbs de Provence. For Kroiz, an important part of expansion is maintaining quality, a task she accomplishes by using only milk from her goats and her scientific approach. “We are what’s called a farmstead dairy, meaning all of the cheese that we make is made with our milk. So, we have control over everything. I mean as much control as you can have over animals,” she adds with a smile. “In terms of milk quality, what the animals are eating really helps

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BY ED FELKER (BOTTOM)

Top: A selection of Georges Mill handcrafted cheeses shown with the farm’s additional dairy products: goat milk caramel, and two flavors (Café au Lait and Caramel) of goat milk gelato. Center Left: Georges Mill Farm Store has become a local treasure, also offering spare ribs, bacon, specialty sausages, cured salamis, fresh eggs, soaps, and other locally sourced produce and wares. Center Right: Kroiz, who didn’t know anything about goats or farming when they began experimenting, is with one of her herd. Bottom: Lucas McCoy takes his task of feeding baby goats at Georges Mill very seriously.

ON THE FARM Lifestyle

THE 15 ANNUAL make our cheese unique because we’re really encompassing the 20 20 flavor of the land specific to the area we are in.” OF FAUQUIER Of the cheesemaking process she says, “I feel like my scientific background is a really good foundation for cheesemaking because there is a lot of chemistry and a lot of biology involved THANK YOU FOR VOTING in understanding it.” She continues, “But, there is a balance with Jewelers & Gifts has Warrenton plenty of unknowns and the artistic part of how thingsmany should tuxes to choose from so you look and feel.” can find your perfect look. From Also crucial to Kroiz’s success is her obvious love of what she Your one-stop shop classic to trendy—you’ll get the tux youlearn want at a price like.repair, does. “The fun thing about it is, I don’t feel like I’ll ever foryou’ll jewelry everything about cheese in my whole life. But it is fun toMention be able the coupon watch batteries and below and to experiment with new things.” gifts.Stop enjoy $40 off yourUnique tux rental. And, as if high-quality, handcrafted cheese isn’t enough, Kroiz in today! We have a large also makes goat milk caramel, goat milk gelato in two flavors, selection of masks for Café au Lait and Caramel, and whey-fed pork products includadults and children, to ing spare ribs, bacon, specialty sausages, and cured salamis. Quality  Service  Selection Kroiz’s collection of goat-based goodies can typically be found at match all personalities. Your Tux Rental farmer’s markets and farm stands from Falls Church to Purcellville Expires 5/31/15. Must present offer at time of rental. May not be and in restaurants and wineries, too. But lately, her wares combined are most with other offers or promotions. One offer per person. easily accessed at the Georges Mill Farm Store, which has proved to be a valuable local resource during the COVID pandemic. 524 Fletcher Drive 540.341. “It’s an honor system farm store, which means it’s not staffed. VA Warrenton, warrentonjewelers There’s no one down there, except maybe you’ll see me restockQuality  Service  Selection More Than a Jewelry Store ing. Because of that it can stay open 24/7.” She expands, “With 524 Fletcher Dr. (Harris Teeter Shopping Center) everything that has happened because of COVID, it turned out 540.341.8840 | warrentonjewelers.comw to be a nice resource for the community. It’s a nice alternative to the grocery store for local folks, which is really cool.” Not only a helpful option for consumers, Kroiz is using the farm store to support other local vendors. “For years we’ve had a handful of locally produced crafts, hyper-local, like my neighLifestyle THE 15 ANNUAL bors. So, we sell local crafts there: coffee that’s roasted in Lovetts20 20 ville, crackers, and other things we think will go well with the OF FAUQUIER cheese.” She elaborates, “But this year, because of COVID…we BEST WINERY had some friends who would normally sell their vegetables to 2010-2020 restaurants, but since the lockdown they had extra vegetables… and we were able to stock their veggies.” She finishes, “It’s a great way for us to be able to offer our products and others to folks nearby.” Though perhaps most meaningfully, the honor system farm store represents two qualities Kroiz herself seems to exude in excess: genuine hospitality and concern for fellow man. Kroiz says, “It’s been really hard for a lot of folks, and I feel very grateful. I am very grateful to live where we live and on a personal level, I am so grateful to have what we have.” Kroiz and her husband can be proud of the chapter they are adding to Georges Mill’s very long history. With popular cheese products, a passion for the process, and commitment to customer and community, it’s no wonder Georges Mill Farm Artisan Cheese is much loved and will be for years to come. TH

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GEORGE’S MILL ARTISAN CHEESE 11873 Georges Mill Road, Lovettsville georgesmillcheese.com

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HERITAGE

Commemorative Coin to Honor

Baseball Greats Two were born in the Piedmont BY GLENDA C. BOOTH

Pete Hill was born in Buena, near Rapidan. His parents were probably former slaves. 48 PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

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COURTESY OF NATIONAL BASEBALL HALL OF FAME AND MUSEUM

aseball, that great “national pastime,” is often seen as a sport that unites us all, but there was a time when unity was but a fleeting dream. In the early 20th century, African Americans were barred from playing on the major league teams, so in 1920, a group of team owners formed the Negro National League, the first successful, professional, African-American baseball league in the country. For almost 20 years, more than 2,600 African-American and Hispanic athletes played in the league, including some legendary greats, including Jackie Robinson, Willie Mays, and Hank Aaron. The league’s players “became known for showcasing a style of speed, daring play, and showmanship,” says history.com. There were four Virginia-born players in this league: Pete Hill from Culpeper; Jud Wilson of Remington; Ray Dandridge of Richmond; and Leon Day of Alexandria. The U.S. Senate has approved a bill, introduced by Sen. Tim Kaine (D-Va.) and Missouri Sen. Roy Blunt (R), directing the U.S. Treasury to produce a commemorative coin to recognize the Centennial of Negro Leagues Baseball. The bill says, “The story of the Negro Leagues is a story of strong-willed athletes who forged a glorious history in the midst of an inglorious era of segregation in the United States.”

HERITAGE

Citing the four Virginia players, Kaine told The Piedmont Virginian, “At a time when African American and Hispanic players were barred from playing on major league teams, the Negro Leagues offered people the chance to see some of the country’s greatest ballplayers. I’m proud my colleagues and I worked together to ensure these players and teams are honored for their historic contributions.”

THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS-AMERICAN MEMORY

Pete Hill Joseph Preston “Pete” Hill was born in 1882, 1883 or 1884 in Buena, near Rapidan. He emerged “from the backwoods of Culpeper County...to become one of the most feared line-drive hitters in the game,” says the National Baseball Hall of Fame website. Pete was the third son of Ike and Elizabeth “Lizzie” Seals Hill, both Virginians and probably former slaves, according to Orange County historian Zann Nelson. The little rural hamlet of Buena became an enclave for newly-freed slaves soon after the Civil War. Ike disappeared or may have died and Lizzie moved her three sons to Pittsburgh when Hill was a child.

A left-handed batter and center fielder, Hill played from 1899 to the mid-1920s and seldom struck out. In the batter’s box he was restless, “always in motion, jumping back and forth trying to draw a throw from the pitcher,” wrote Lawrence D. Hogan in Shades of Glory: The Negro Leagues and the Story of African-American Baseball. Hill had “a rocket arm and excellent glove,” says the National Baseball Hall of Fame website. A fast runner, Hill was once timed running the bases in 14.4 seconds. He played for the Pittsburgh Keystones, Cuban X Giants, Philadelphia Giants, Leland Giants, and the Chicago American Giants. He went on to manage the Detroit Stars, Milwaukee Bears, and Baltimore Black Sox. Hill “helped put Negro baseball on the map,” wrote sportswriter Fay Young for the Chicago Defender in 1951. After retiring from baseball, he moved to Buffalo, N.Y., and helped form the Buffalo Red Caps and worked as a railroad porter. He passed away in 1951. It wasn’t until 2006 that he was inducted into the National Baseball Hall of Fame.

Pete Hill batting for the Leland Giants in 1909.

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HERITAGE

Jud Wilson Judson Ernest “Jud” Wilson was born in Remington in 1894 or 1899. He courted his future wife, Betty, by crossing a creek on a log to visit her, reported the Fredericksburg Star in 2001. As a teenager, he moved to Washington, D.C., enlisted in the Army in 1918 and served as a corporal in World War I. After the war, he played semi-pro baseball in the city’s Foggy Bottom sandlots. A left-handed slugger and third baseman, Wilson started his baseball career with the Baltimore Black Sox in 1922. Some sports writers called him "Babe Ruth Wilson," but his teammates nicknamed him "Boojum" because of the booming noise of his line drives when

the ball struck the outfield walls. He consistently had a high .300s batting average and topped .400 occasionally. In 1925, he went to Cuba and played for the Habana Leones, where his colleagues called him “The Bull,” for a 400-foot homerun over the right-field wall. He eventually played for the Philadelphia Stars and made the East All-Star Game several times. Wilson also played for the Grays in Washington, contributing to six straight Negro National League championships from 1940 through 1945. A contemporary, Josh Gibson, said Wilson was the greatest hitter he had ever seen, especially hitting doubles and singles. Satchel Paige commented, “He just tried to blur that ball by you.” Wilson also became known for his fiery temper and aggressiveness during games, once lifting an umpire off the ground by the skin of his chest, but others said he had a kind heart off the field. Wilson hoped baseball would be integrated, but in 1939 he lamented, “It’s too big a job for the people who are now trying to put it over. It will have to be a universal movement, and that will never be. . . because the big-league game, as it is now, is overrun with Southern blood. These fellows would have to stop at the same hotels, eat in the same dining rooms and sleep in the same train compartments with the colored players. There’d be trouble for sure.” After baseball, he helped build the Whitehurst Freeway in Washington and eventually had seizures that may have been brought on by an auto accident or rough baseball plays. He was eventually institutionalized and died in 1963. In 2006, he was elected to the National Baseball Hall of Fame.

Breaking Down Barriers

Jud Wilson with the Homestead Grays in the early ’30s. He went on to contribute to six straight Negro National League championships. 50 PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

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BY HARRISON STUDIO

Many credit the Negro National League’s players with helping dismantle segregation, for being a force for social change. Rep. Emanuel Cleaver (D-Mo.), the U.S. House of Representatives’ coin bill sponsor, said, “At a time when many were still under the erroneous assumption that African Americans were inferior to white Americans, the Negro Leagues were a proving ground that under the same rules, African Americans were every bit as good, if not better, than their counterparts in the Major Leagues.” His goal is to pass the bill by the end of the year to honor the league’s centennial. After the U.S. Treasury recoups the coins’ production costs from sales, funds will go to the National Negro Leagues Baseball Museum founded in 1990 in Kansas City, Mo.

HERITAGE

COURTESY OF NATIONAL BASEBALL HALL OF FAME AND MUSEUM

Jud Wilson hoped baseball would be integrated, but in 1939 he lamented, “It’s too big a job for the people who are now trying to put it over. It will have to be a universal movement, and that will never be…”

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HABITAT

A Peregrine Falcon Nursery Raptor pair chooses Ashburn quarry to raise their young BY GLENDA C. BOOTH PHOTOS COURTESY OF MATT O’LEAR, BRYAN D. WATTS, PHD., AND ALAN WILLIAMS

narrow ledge 75 feet above the ground in a traprock quarry may sound like an inhospitable place to have and raise babies, but if you’re a peregrine falcon, it’s perfect. Last year, for the first time, a pair of falcons chose a ledge in the Luck Stone quarry just off Belmont Ridge Road in Ashburn for their home. There, the female laid four eggs, and the pair successfully raised three males and one female. “They took my breath away” when he spotted them, said John Thompson, Luck’s regional operations manager. Peregrines typically nest on cliffs, ledges, skyscrapers, water towers, bridges and other tall structures, so the sides of a quarry are perfect habitats. “Quarries mimic natural cliff faces,” said Bryan D. Watts, director of the College of William & Mary’s Center for Conservation Biology. DOWN THE QUARRY WALL In May 2019, Watts climbed down the quarry’s wall to see the nest up close and to band the chicks for further study. He and an associate, ecologist Alan Williams, used climbers’ gear and rappelled down the sheer rock walls to the nest — also known as an “aerie.” The scientists put each chick in a pet carrier and hung it on a sling attached to the wall. They banded the birds and took measurements. Then they returned the birds to the nest and climbed back to the top of the quarry. Job done. Further monitoring of the fledglings at Luck Stone was done from a distance with a longrange camera over several visits. Scientists band birds in hopes there will be re-sightings. This allows them to study the birds’ migration, demographics and other factors. Watts partners with the Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources, the National Park Service and other organizations and private companies to help track the banded birds. Having Luck Stone as a partner is a boon to their studies. Left: A collection of scenes from the Luck Stone quarry in Ashburn, where a mating pair of falcons built a nest in 2019 and hatched a brood of chicks. Right: Luck Stone pair during their first nest exchange.

The quarry’s depth ranges from 50 feet to approximately 250 feet, and Luck mines diabase, a fine-grained rock used in concrete and asphalt. The nest was on a perimeter wall — in an area that will not be mined in the foreseeable future, according to quarry managers. “They will likely play a significant role in future conservation efforts in Virginia and throughout the southern Appalachians,” Watts said. “We are very fortunate to have Luck Stone as a conservation partner for peregrine recovery.” COMEBACK STORY Peregrine populations declined worldwide in the mid-1900s, which experts attribute to the pesticide DDT. By the early 1960s, peregrines were believed to be done as a breeding species in Virginia due to the population drops. “Egg-shell thinning, egg breakage, and hatching failure have all been attributed to elevated contaminant levels in females,” Watts said. The tide started to turn in 1970, when the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service listed the birds as endangered and, in 1972, the Environmental Protection Agency restricted the use of DDTs. PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

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HABITAT Left: Scientists Bryan Watts (white helmet) and Alan Williams (black helmet) weigh and band the Luck Stone peregrine falcon chicks.

In 1978, scientists started restoration efforts in the Virginia’s coastal plain and eventually in the mountain regions. Between 1975 and 1993, they released over 430 captive-reared falcons in the Mid-Atlantic and populations have risen steadily since. Over the last three decades, 95 percent of breeding activity in Virginia has occurred in the coastal plain region along the state’s eastern shoreline. Watts’ team counted 30 breeding pairs statewide in 2019, which included two in Northern Virginia — the pair at Luck Stone and a pair in Reston. This was the third highest population recorded. The 61 young produced in 2019 was the most productive in Virginia’s history. This year, the team once again confirmed 30 breeding pairs nesting in the state. “The population size is now around the estimated population size in the pre-DDT era,” Watts said. Since the DDT ban, Virginia’s coastal populations have recovered more quickly than in other areas. While the falcons were removed from the federal endangered species list in 1999, Virginia still lists peregrines as “threatened” at the state level. STATEWIDE EFFORT Since 2000, National Park Service biologists have worked to bring peregrine falcons to Virginia’s mountains, once part of their historic range. Using a method called “hacking,” the park service team brings three- to four-week-old downy chicks from eastern Virginia bridges to wooden hack boxes on high cliff ledges in the Shenandoah National Park. For 10 to 14 days, staffers feed the captive chicks raw quail twice daily through a 2-inch tall, 14-inch wide opening, like a mail slot. The team hopes the birds will imprint on the park’s cliffs and return as breeding adults in two to three years.

When the falcons are ready to fly, at around six weeks of age, managers, hidden from the birds, open the box’s door slowly with a rope. Generally, the young falcons stay in the local area for several weeks. By late July, they begin to take extended flights of over 200 miles. By late August, they leave the area. From 2000 to 2020, the park released 165 peregrines from four hack sites. Out of the 165 released, 155 successfully fledged, or grew big enough and strong enough to fly. At least two previously hacked falcons later returned to the park as a pair and built nests. MORE QUARRIES, MORE FALCONS Documenting a breeding pair in Luck Stone’s quarry was especially significant, Watts said. “It is great to have pairs beginning to colonize the quarries because Virginia has quite a few both active and inactive quarries. Hopefully, the adaptation to the quarries will lead to more pairs in the state that are stable and productive.” In 2020, devoted peregrine watchers searched all spring for a nest and parenting peregrines. Then in June, avid Ashburn-area bird watchers Theo and Calin Andronescu spotted and photographed four young peregrines flying over the Luck Stone quarry. Tellingly, peregrine falcons born in Virginia in the spring typically fledge in June. So joy erupted among the scientists, local bird watchers and the folks at Luck Stone. “We did not know about the nesting at Luck Stone [this year] until after the birds had fledged,” Watts said. Luck Stone officials have taken to calling the birds “their peregrines.” “We were so thrilled to have this bird in our quarry,” Thompson said. And they hope to see them back again next year.

Many thanks to:

Bryan D. Watts, Ph.D., Matt O’Lear, and Alan Williams for freely and readily sharing both their photography and expertise.

PEREGRINE FALCON

101

Peregrine falcon males are crow size, or roughly the size of a pigeon. The females are bigger — more the size of ravens. They have intense, dark eyes, “a steely, barred look,” according to Cornell University’s “All about Birds” website. They have a dark brown cap or hood and distinctive, dark sideburns. Their plumage is blue-gray above with vertical bars on the breast. The chin and throat are white to tawny buff. The powerful bill has a yellow base that transitions to gray and black at the tip. For nesting, the female makes a shallow depression called a “scrape” by scratching loose soil, sand, gravel, or dead vegetation. There, females lay from two to five creamy-brownish eggs. Peregrines mate for life. They also establish territories and usually space their nests seven to 10 miles from the next nearest nest. Peregrine falcons are speedy raptors, going as fast as 200 mph. They catch smaller birds in the air with spectacular dives called “stoops.” They often wait on high perches before making an aerial assault and capture their prey with their sharp talons, favoring slower-moving birds like grackles, blue jays, shorebirds, and waterfowl. Adult peregrines eat the equivalent of two medium-sized birds a day. Peregrine falcons are found in rural and urban environments and on every continent except Antarctica. They have a long history with people who have used them for hunting or falconry, as early as 2000 B.C. in China and Mesopotamia. In World War II, both the U.S. and the German armies had a falcon corps to intercept the enemy’s homing pigeons. Their name comes from the Latin word “peregrinus,” which means “to wander.”

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WINE

Celebrating a Major Milestone It’s been a memorable decade or two in the wine business... BY SCOTT ELLIFF

can’t believe it’s been 20 years since I first planted some vines at our Madison County property. This fall, my DuCard Vineyards will be celebrating our 10th anniversary as a Virginia farm winery. Wow! We started with three key principles: 1. Produce fine wines of outstanding character, 2. Be environmentally responsible, and 3. Provide knowledgeable service in a beautiful, relaxed setting. Ten years later: Mission Accomplished (so far).Our wines have been awarded gold medals in the prestigious Virginia Governor's Cup competition and we’ve been recognized for our green environmental approach and our team. And patrons give us top ratings. I looked back over prior columns I’ve written for The Piedmont Virginian, which basically asked “are you crazy?” and were answered independently in separate columns by my wife and me. Yes, dear, you were right. Totally insane thing to do. High capital cost, high labor cost, weather risks of all kinds, many diseases and conditions that can ruin the grape crops, various issues that arise in winemaking that can ruin the wine, with Virginia as an unknown and certainly unproven region for wine production, and with DuCard located on a remote back road. But I was right, too. It was an insanely fun and fulfilling thing to do. An opportunity, starting from scratch, to do it’ “right” in terms of values, business practices, quality and customer service standards, culture, and community involvement. And the results are gratifying, too. If you do it right, customers, staff, and business partners will support you and become loyal fans--and friends--who market and spread the word for you. In a subsequent column — ten years ago now, when Virginia had a total of 150 wineries, and DuCard had not yet opened to the public — I ventured that “the best was yet to come.” Indeed, Virginia now has more than 300 wineries, and while our industry certainly is still small, it is getting significant recognition nationwide and beyond. And DuCard’s remote location has proven to be a great plus, as consumers seek venues with natural beauty, wide open space, and tranquility. In the current COVID period, our back lawn has become an oasis of sorts. Who knew? 56 PIEDMONTVIRGINIAN.COM |

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DuCard Vineyards owner Scott Elliff

Recently, I wrote about “authenticity” in the industry. With growth comes innovation and creativity and new business models, which is inevitable and is commonly labelled “progress.” But I guess I’m now officially an old codger because back when I started, when you went to a winery, the wine you tasted was entirely from grapes grown on the property and was all made by the owner and his staff right on the premises. Not so in a number of Virginia operations now, with outsourced wine production or grapes that are mostly purchased from elsewhere (including California). Sure, DuCard’s approach involves more risk (yes, from time to time; like after this spring’s crippling frosts — my wife does refer back to her original column on this point). But we still approach it in this old fashioned, authentic way, come what may. All in all, quite a run. And I still believe, as we approach our 10th anniversary and release our Decade One commemorative wines, that the best is ahead of us. But it’s time to celebrate how far we’ve come — and that we’re just here at all! Please join us!

It’s been 10 years since Elliff opened his winery in Madison County.

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Connect with the Piedmontâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premier readership. Contact Jim Kelly at 434.987.3542 jim@piedmontpub.com

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