Legacy plate on a

The longstanding history of some of the most iconic eateries in India

Words Anithya Balachandran And Gayatri Thakkar

The key ingredient for any successful recipe has always been touted to be love. India has a repertoire of vintage restaurants and cafés that have stood the test of time where this key ingredient has been honoured. In fact, over the years these establishments have gained immense popularity for their unique and signature dishes, coupled with their transportative décor and old-world charm. Each vintage restaurant has its story to tell, preserving its legacy in little pockets all across the country; places where food and history meld together. Enthusiasts can feast on a slice of the past whilst appreciating the coexistence of an era gone in today’s world. ese restaurants evoke a sense of nostalgia and transport diners to a di erent time with their dated décor and secret recipes that have been passed down through the generations. In this feature, we will delve into the di erent restaurants around the country that have been running for around a century.

ALLEN KITCHEN- KOLKATA

Allen Kitchen was founded by Jeeban Krishna Saha 130 years ago. It has been christened a er a Scottish gentleman, named Mr Allen. e Saha family has owned the restaurant from time immemorial. Currently, it is located by the Sovabazar metro station. What makes Allen Kitchen unique is its famed prawn cutlets and chops, which have miraculously maintained their avour, courtesy of the head cook who has been working there for more than 50 years. Allen Kitchen keeps up with the times by introducing minor changes to its menu, like its juicy steaks that are vastly di erent from those found in other eateries around Kolkata. For evening appetisers, this location is a rare nd, especially for its special sh Kabiraji, sh fry, and prawn cutlet. is cutlet is covered with egg chi onade and is thus known as a coverage cutlet. It is believed that the term coverage was mispronounced as “kabiraji” in the local tongue, thus giving rise to the name Kabiraji cutlet.

BRITANNIA- MUMBAI

Britannia was founded by Rashid Kohinoor in 1923 and shares the day of its birth with Boman, Rashid’s son. Niched in a beautiful colonial bungalow in the recesses of Ballard Estate’s business district, this popular establishment has managed to attract devoted patrons through the generations. e restaurant’s iconic bentwood furniture is from Poland, and unpainted walls sporting framed cut-outs of British royalty add to the transportative old-world charm of the restaurant. Britannia’s menu has classic favourites like dhansak, sali boti, and berry pulao. e restaurant’s most popular rice dish is prepared with special ingredients and berries imported from Iran. is recipe was passed down the generations, from Mrs Kohinoor, and is a symbol of the years she spent in Iran. Britannia serves seven kinds of berry pulao, as well as deep-fried mutton, and chicken cutlets. e iconic raspberry soda native to Irani cafés and delicious, creamy lagan nu custard perfectly concludes the meal. Within the ancient walls of Britannia, the restaurant’s slogan holds true: “ ere is no love greater than the love of eating.”

CAFÉ EXCELSIOR- MUMBAI

Like most Irani cafés around Mumbai, Café Excelsior has its age-old décor that remains unchanged with the passage of time. Old-fashioned fans hang from the high ceilings, old wooden clocks and hand-painted signs declare the speciality dishes that furnish the otherwise bare walls. ese frames were painted by Ardeshir Mazkoori, the third-generation owner who bears the name of the café’s founder, his grandfather. e founder had hailed from Iran and started the café with his brother in 1919. Apart from Parsi dishes such as sali boti, cutlets, patra ni machchi, turkey, chicken cutlets, and dhansak, they also serve Chinese and Lebanese dishes. Bread pudding, ice cream and custard are a few of the customer-favourite desserts. Café Excelsior retains its authentic avours by carefully passing down its recipes. e head cook has worked there for over forty years and is the son of the previous head chef.

CAFÉ MONDEGAR- MUMBAI

Café Mondegar opened its doors in 1932 and was the rst café in the city to have a vintage jukebox, which sits in a corner, waiting to serenade the customers with its classic old songs. Over the years, Mondegar evolved into a landmark restaurant and bar from its humble beginnings as a café in the hotel Apollo’s lobby. e café, which is adorned with murals by Mario Miranda, is a favourite among both tourists and residents. e menu, consisting of Chinese and Indian dishes, is immortalised beneath glass panels. On special occasions, visitors can take home Café Mondegar’s postcards. e café has a variety of mouth-watering dishes like beef chilli, bacon-wrapped prawns, arrabbiata pasta, and Mondy’s special steak cheeseburger. Paired with a pint of beer and the humdrum of the Colaba causeway, a meal at Café Mondegar is truly a memorable experience.

FLURYS- KOLKATA

A tearoom and pastry shop located on Park Street in the heart of Kolkata, Flurys was founded in 1927 by the Swiss couple, Mr and Mrs J. Flury. It was quick to make waves amongst the a uent British and Indian patrons at the time. Flurys was also the lair of many creative artists and was the haunt of familiar names like Satyajit Ray and Mrinal Sen. Today, the timeless décor of the heritage tearoom is integral to the Anglo-Indian culture of Kolkata; each dessert item is bursting with a special combination of avours that awlessly complement one another to produce a delightful experience. e unique almond cube pastries, cakes and rich puddings are enjoyed fresh out of the oven. Customers can dine on a classic English breakfast of beans on toast, or try iconic desserts like the rum ball.

DORABJEE AND SONS- PUNE

Founded in 1878 by Sorabjee Dorabjee, Dorabjee and Sons is Pune’s oldest Parsi Restaurant. e restaurant started as a humble tea stall that served classic treats like bun maska and Irani chai. As demand skyrocketed, Dorabjee and Sons began serving elaborate meals as well. Dorabjee’s has been around for four generations with Mr Darius Dorabjee now at the helm, steadily dishing out authentic Parsi cuisine. e melt-in-your-mouth mutton kheema pav is prepared with golden onions caramelised in ghee and traditional Parsi spice

HARI RAM AND SONS-ALLAHABAD

Nestled in a tiny shop in the recesses of Loknath Lane in Allahabad, Hari Ram and Sons was established in 1890 and is going strong even today. e eatery is famous for its iconic, fresh samosas that are made using pure ghee. Other mouth-watering items on their menu are pakoras, palak bhajiyas, and other fried nger snacks, such as tangy roasted chickpeas and gram. Hari ram and Sons has a simple, unpretentious ambience, while its food speaks for itself. e fragrant aromas of freshly fried food wa along the street corner, attracting tourists and locals alike. eir packaged spice blends have also grown popular over the years.

GLENARY’S- DARJEELING

is heritage restaurant of Darjeeling is known for its Indian, Chinese & Continental fare, served in a vintage roo op setting with panoramic views of the cityscape. Glenary’s was established during the British era and is situated on the rst oor of a cosy white building in which Glenary’s Bakery & café operates. e restaurant has a peaceful, quaint ambience, with wood-framed glass windows opening onto spectacular views of Mt. Kanchenjunga and the valley during the daytime. e bar has an impressive collection of Indian and foreign liquors. Grilled chicken, roasted chicken, pork steak, pork roast and beef steak are some of the dishes available in the restaurant. Glenary’s has also been lauded for its masterful tandoori kebabs and tikkas. Continental fare includes sh ngers, cheese balls, and vegetable au gratin.

INDIAN COFFEE HOUSE - KOLKATA

e oldest co ee house in Kolkata, the establishment dates back to 1942. Undoubtedly the co ee house triggers nostalgia for what colloquially is referred to as the good old days. However, the co ee house wasn’t always the hotspot for snacks and conversations it is today. In 1876, Albert Hall was founded in the College Street area of Kolkata, in 1942, it was converted into a co ee house by the Co ee Board. e Indian Government wished to keep the name simple and named it Co ee House in 1947. It went on to become one of the most iconic eateries in Kolkata and to date retains its position on that list. e Co ee House has been thronged by many writers, poets, artists and political leaders. Great artists such as Rabindranath Tagore, Satyajit Ray and Amartya Sen have been regular patrons of this establishment. e Indian Co ee House in Kolkata was renovated in the year 2009 and one can see paintings of great leaders such as Rabindranath Tagore adorning the historic walls. Along with co ee, the Indian Co ee House also serves a slew of authentic Kolkata snacks like sh fry, chicken cutlet, mutton cutlet, chicken Chow Mein, sh Kabiraji and more.

KARIM’S- DELHI

ey say a trip to Delhi is incomplete without a visit to Karim’s. e 109-year-old eatery nestled in the heart of Old Delhi near Jama Masjid serves authentic Mughlai delicacies and has through the years built an extremely loyal customer base. e history of the restaurant started way before its physical construction. e story dates back to the mid-19th century when Mohammed Aziz was a cook in the royal court of the Mughal Emperor at the Red Fort; however, he le when the emperor was dethroned. However, Haji Karimuddin, one of Aziz’s sons, moved back to Delhi with the aim of opening a small eatery. Karimuddin started by only selling just two dishes that include alu gosht (mutton with potatoes) and dal served with rumali roti. In 1913 he established the Karim Hotel in Gali Kababian, near Jama Masjid in Delhi and soon his restaurant was frequented by visitors from near and far because of its royal dishes served at a ordable prices. e highly recommended dishes at Karim’s are their kebabs, tandoori bhara, mutton korma, mutton stew, chicken mughlai and chicken Jahangiri.

KYANI & CO- MUMBAI

Whether it is a steaming hot cup of creamy Irani chai or a hearty plate of freshly baked buns slathered in maska, Irani cafés are a source of comfort. One cannot truly experience Mumbai without visiting Kyani. Established by Khodram Marezaban in the early 1900s, the café is especially popular amongst college students and o cegoers. One can indulge in a quick breakfast of sausages and fried eggs or a plate of their famous kheema pav. As the day progresses, the tables are lled with cups of Irani chai, plates of bun maska, and freshly baked coin-shaped kharis. e eatery has a service that is lightning fast and the plaque cards on the walls with a set of house rules that includes phrases

LEOPOLD CAFÉ - MUMBAI

An iconic feature of Colaba Causeway, Leopold Café is renowned for being one of the original Irani cafés in Mumbai. However, tragedy struck the establishment in 2008 during the Mumbai Terrorists’ attack and there is a bullet hole marking in one of the walls that is a reminder of that treacherous day. Leopold Café was founded in 1871 by Iranis and originally was a wholesale oil store. Many locals and tourists adore the establishment for its diverse menu, non-alcoholic and alcoholic beverage options and convivial atmosphere. A hidden gem on the food menu is their exquisite caesar salad which goes surprisingly well with a tall glass of chilled beer.

MAVALLI TIFFIN ROOMS- BENGALURU

e birth of Mavalli Ti n Rooms (MTR) took place in 1924, Parameshwara Maiya, with encouragement and assistance from his employer, decided to start a small restaurant on Lalbagh Fort Road in Bengaluru, along with Ganappayya Maiya, called the Brahmin Co ee Club serving co ee and idlis. Five years later, on the death of Parameshwara Maiya, Yagnanarayana Maiya joined his brother in running the restaurant. For the next three decades, Yagnanarayana Maiya made MTR one of the most iconic South Indian eateries in the country. In 1960, the restaurant shi ed to its present location on Lalbagh Road, Bengaluru as its popularity was growing exponentially. Some of the speciality dishes of the restaurant include their u y rava idlis, decadent chandrahara and avorful bisibele bhat.

SHAIKH BROTHERS BAKERY-GUWAHATI

e original Tunday Kababi which opened its doors to guests in 1905 is situated in the Gol Dawarza area of Lucknow. Known for its iconic kebabs that are said to be so so they melt in your mouth, the restaurant to date is known nationally for its kebab o erings and accompaniments. e crowd’s favourites are the galouti kebabs that pair well with the sheermal or rumali roti. e humble establishment does not have an exciting decor but for what it lacks in ambience, it more than makes up for in taste.

SWATI SNACKS- MUMBAI

It all started with a humble dream, as it o en does. Swati Snacks is the brainchild of Minakshi Jhaveri, who was known for making the most delicious chaat among friends and family.

rough constant encouragement of her loved ones, Minakshi started Swati Snacks in 1963 in a minuscule 10 sqm establishment in Tardeo. e eatery introduced the city to a delightful savoury rice pancake steamed in a banana leaf, panki, that is easily their most sold item on the menu. Panki has been on the Swati Snacks menu since the year 2000 and over the years the restaurant has introduced many variants of it. Swati Snacks sells approximately 600 pankis a day across their four restaurants in Mumbai and Ahmedabad.