Panama 980 Edición 32

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TRAVEL

Valle Escondido RESORT GOLF & SPA RANDOMLY GOOD

Edition 32

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VALLE ESCONDIDO BOUTIQUE GOLF& SPA THE MUD HOUSE ASSEMBLY JANSON COFFEE FARM RANDOMLY GOOD PART 8

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BOCAS DEL TORO RANDOM ART THE ART OF JULIE JORGENSEN CASA DE MONTAÑA BED & BREAKFAST

WHERE TONIGHT? TUCAN COUNTRY CLUB & RESORT TABOGA

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DAY TOUR IDEAS IN PANAMA CITY

16 contents RED FROG RESORT & SPA

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ESA FLACA RICA FOOD TRUCK PARADISE IN BOQUETE ON THE ROAD

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The name 9°80° is derived from the country’s location on the world map – 9 degrees north of the equator, 80 degrees west of the prime meridian.

GENERAL MANAGER Irma Marengo GRAPHIC DESIGN Falina Pérez de Valverde WRITERS Irma Marengo Tom Brymer Prof. César Cedeño Domínguez PHOTOGRAPHY Irma Marengo Red Frog PEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY P.F. Chang’s CONTACT INFORMATION Phone: (507)394-3452 info@panama980.com www.locationpanama.com Panama 9°80° es publicada por Avenue A. Publications, Inc. Las opiniones y recomendaciones de los autores y artistas que aparecen en Panama 9°80° no necesariamente reflejan las opiniones de la empresa. Panama 9°80° no asume responsabilidad por los productos o servicios que se anuncian en la revista, ni por errores de contenido impreso. No está permitido reproducir, total o parcialmente en contenido de esta publicación sin previo permiso escrito de Avenue A. Publications, Inc. © 2014 Todos los derechos reservados. RUC: 1119547-1-564065 D.V. 92 Impreso por Panamericana Formas e Impresos, S.A. quién solo actúa como impresor. Impreso en Colombia

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Photo courtesy of Cubitá

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VALLE ESCONDIDO RESORT GOLF & SPA “Hidden Valley”

Step into the dream of Sam Taliaferro, a man who saw far and beyond people’s imaginations, a visionary man who back in the early 2000s developed a residential resort community that positioned Panama on the top of the lists of the best retirement communities in the world. A place surrounded by stunning mountains, a rocky river, fish ponds with water fountains, where the aroma of flowers fill up your lungs while its spring like weather and the tranquility of the valley lift your spirit and let your inner child run wild.

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Photo by IM

Valle Escondido is like stepping into an enchanted shire, cobblestone paths border a quiet tiny village where you would imagine the Keebler Elves making a fresh batch of cookies. A contrast of fantasy embraced by breathtaking and carefully manicured gardens, where even the colorful eucalyptus trees seem to be extracted from a fairy tale. Hotel Escondido is the perfect place for a real vacation giving you the opportunity to truly relax. Whether you are a golf enthusiast, a racket ball player, enjoy swimming, are wellness inclined or simply feel like having an exotic cocktail at the cantina, at Valle Escondido it just feels like you deserve it all. Hotel Escondido has different types of accommodations to best suit the preferences of its guests. On this occasion we stayed in one of the Jr. Suites in The Pueblo (The Village), an ample and cozy room with access to an outdoor private terrace where we delighted contemplating nature while being carried away by soothing sounds of the river and the fresh breeze. La Vida Health & Beauty Spa is very impressive and there is nothing like it in the region. La Vida is the place to energize, lose weight, get stronger and relax, it is the path to a better you.

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Undoubtedly one of Valle Escondido’s main attractions is the Quebrada Grande Golf Club. This is an ideal course to challenge yourself and your partners year round with 3 par 4s and 6 par 3s with an increasing degree of difficulty all the while surrounded by the river and playing at optimal temperatures. Valle Escondido is more than a Hotel and Spa, it is a lifestyle for the many lucky residents of its gated community, people who enjoy all of the amenities of the country club, from a restaurant and bar to an active life of sports and leisure with top of the line facilities and best of all a sense of community and security. Valle Escondido is located in the charming little town of Boquete, full of activities such as coffee tours, hiking, bird watching, horseback riding and so much more.

Bucket list: Move to Valle Escondid one day and become a part of the shire!

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Hotel Amenities Restaurant and Bar A perfect wedding venue

Telephone

Spa

Flat screen TV

Golf & Mini Golf

Blow dryer

Swimming pools

In-room safe

Jacuzzis

Internet access

Saunas

The riverside bungalows and the master suites offer additional amenities.

Steam baths Tennis Racquetball Fitness center In-Room Amenities

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Contact information +507 7202454 reservations@veresort.com www.veresort.com


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THE MUD

HOUSE

ASSEMBLY By Professor César Cedeño Domínguez

From the colonial days all the way to half of the past century, the mud houses better known as “casa de quincha” were one of the primary housing styles used by the Azuero population. The construction process was always accompanied by rituals, celebrations and chanting native to the region and the activity was named mud splatter assembly “Junta de Embarra”. Generally speaking, the construction of a “quincha” house entails 4 consecutive stages: The first stage is basically to make the decision to build a house and then extend the invitations to friends and family along with some logistic actions such as leveling the ground, selecting the spot to extract the soil, straw, reeds and to procure the necessary water to build up the walls and structure of the house. The second stage entails assembling the wall structure or caging of the house, then breaking and watering the soil. At this point people start to set up the area where food will be served including stoves and tableware. A cow is sacrificed to feed all the workers and guests. Once these tasks are accomplished, they place flags on top of the house as a symbol of the godparents of the activity. When the night is about to fall they prepare the rice and corn that will be consumed during the assembly. The sounds of pounding and venting the rice accompany the rhythm of the violins and the sound box and the journey ends with the “tamborito” a Panamanian tradition that involves dancing and is performed to the beat of the drums, stomping of feet, clapping and chanting.

The third stage is the assembly day, the day that the walls are covered with mud. The day starts grinding the corn that will be used to make rolls and “tortillas” not Mexican tortillas, but rice patties that are fried to a crisp. These items are typically served along with coffee and tripe. The hard work begins when people create a line with arms around their neighbor’s shoulders and step back and forth in the mud mixed with hay over and over until it is properly mixed. Panama 9°80° 17 www.locationpanama.com


Photo by IM

Once the mud is mixed they shape and cut mud bricks and place and spread them in the walls in the caging. Some people kick the mud bricks with the back of their heel with a lot of grace while others catch it. During this process alcohol shots are passed along to cheer up the workers. When the work is advanced other guests are called to replace the tired workers so they can eat lunch and take a break. Lunch normally consists of beef soup and white rice. When the walls are covered with mud, they lift up and carry the new owners around the house to then splash them with mud in a moment of fun and joy, showing the town that the assembly has concluded. Once the house is turned over to the owners they practice the ceremony of lowering the flags and publicly call the godfathers of the activity who handed over alcohol, wine, soft drinks and sweets to end the journey with the cheerful “tamborito”. The final and the fourth stage happens afterwards with setting the roof and conditioning the house with special finishings such as polishing, whitening, the addition of baseboards, frames, doors, windows and ornamental elements such as lighting and latticework. In recent months Panama 9°80° Lifestyle & Travel Magazine was invited to participate in a “Junta de Embarra” organized by Cubitá Boutique Resort & Spa. Cubitá has taken the admirable mission to rescue and enhance Panama’s folklore.

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JANSON COFFEE FARM

It is quite refreshing to see what an amazing job a family can do when they work together; produce award winning coffee, breed high-end horse and cattle, and run professional VIP tours for the most discerning travelers. All this is possible thanks to the visionary Carl Janson, a Swedish immigrant who purchased land in Volcan in the mid1940’s after falling in love with the Chiriqui Highlands. Janson introduced the first automated dairy farm to Panama, imported high quality cattle, and made sure to preserve the natural richness of the land for future generations. In 2013 Janson Geisha coffee won second prize in the annual Best of Panama Coffee Competition. Geisha is a heirloom varietal of arabica coffee from the Gesha province in Ethiopia. Geisha is difficult to take care of requiring the perfect micro climate, altitude, and soil. Geisha coffee produces less cherries than other coffee varieties. Janson Coffee Farm’s micro climate provides the perfect conditions for growing this high quality coffee with citrus overtones, hints of jasmine, and notes of honey.

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Gourmet coffee is hand-planted, hand-picked, and hand-selected. Producing gourmet coffee takes time and care. Only the ripest cherries are picked during harvest. Once the beans are processed, they are dried in the sun, and then aged at least 3 months. For gourmet coffee premium beans are the desired for consistent roasting. Fine gourmet coffees are a light to medium roast. Calle Janson runs the roasting facility and takes pride in micro-roasting and selling select arabica coffees. Michael Janson oversees the coffee fields and is a specialized cupper. Michael also oversees the breeding of Peruvian and Pinto horses and Angus cattle. Brothers Peter and Ricky Janson assist in overall management. Haydee Janson, Calle’s wife is the leadership behind many projects on the farm such as the coffee shop and the extensive plant nursery. Haydee also has a passion for landscaping, planting plants that attract butterflies and birds. The Jansons are firm believers in conservation. They take the coffee cherry pulp add enzyme microorganisms to compost and then use the byproduct to fertilize the farm. They also make Cascara Tea from the skin. The second skins of the coffee called parchment, are used to fuel the coffee driers. One of Carl Janson’s grandsons, Leif Janson, operates Lagunas Adventures a tour company showcasing the farm with his wife Emily. Together they share a passion for outdoor activities and coffee. Visitors appreciate the personalized and professional attention they get when visiting Janson Coffee Farm.

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Janson Coffee Farm has a privileged location that makes it a destination in and of itself. Take a tour and learn about gourmet coffee production, or kayak or fish in the highest lakes and wetlands of Panama. Go birding, hiking, horseback riding, or enjoy a motorized dock ride and absorb the beauty of the surrounding forest and breathtaking views of the volcano. A visit to the farm makes a memorable experience that gives you the opportunity not only to sample some of the best coffee in the world, but to experience nature like you never have before. Janson Coffee is sold nationally and internationally and is well known for its excellence and aromatic flavor. For more information contact: + 507-6867-3884 + 507-6569-7494 lagunasadventures@hotmail.com lagunasadventures.com jansoncoffeefarm.com Location: Las Lagunas - Cafetales Baru, Volcan, Chiriqui, Panama Panama 9째80째

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Donde Jose

Chef Jose Carles is on a journey to re-define Panamanian cuisine which is the result of the influence of many cultures and even incorporate preColumbian ingredients. Although there are some regions with a more defined culinary identity like the coastal areas or the central provinces, there are still missing links as per the overall concept of the cuisine that defines the country. “That is why we call it new Panamanian cuisine, it is our vision of it, the way we work with what already exists, some ingredients that are not commonly used and we create our own cuisine here at Donde Jose. We have created a sampling menu because we feel that is very difficult to understand a cuisine by going to a restaurant and ordering an appetizer, a main dish and a dessert, you end up missing many things on the menu. We divided the current menu in 2 sections, the first section we call “mata hambres” hunger killers and it consists of 4 tiny dishes served fast one after the other, then the second section which is slower and more relaxed, we call “el pebre” colloquial for meal, where we serve 5 larger dishes including dessert.” We started the sampling menu with

“la ñapa” the freebee, corn fritters with a tomato stew smoked with nance firewood. Very flavorful. We were served a purple yam crisp topped with a passion fruit and banana ketchup, chicken liver parfait, capuchina petals and citronella. Later we got to sample for the first time “saus” a pork feet ceviche served with mashed Chiriqui beans and sweet, sour pickles and micro radish. The “tamal bochinchoso” or gossip monger tamale. Called gossip monger because somewhere in the tamale mix, there’s cow tongue, served with sweet and sour raisins, chicken rind, pickled carrots, celery and micro beets. This makes quite a delightful treat. Chef Jose’s interpretation of a mango salad, preserved mango with a touch of spice served with cured and cold smoked tilapia, crispy rice and cilantro sprouts, very delicate. The king of the night was the rice with eggs, sticky rice cooked in beer, pickled onions, a cornish egg, rice ashes and a sauce made out of goat

milk cream and coriander seeds. The fried sawfish Chorrillo style (Chorrillo is a popular neighborhood famous for their fried fish), served with a sour cream made out of sautéed aromatic vegetables and cumin. Crispy on the outside, soft and juicy on the inside. The last of the savory dishes was a beef tenderloin cooked to perfection, served with oregano preserves, oatmeal wine, vanilla, topped with breadfruit shavings, served over the house sweet mustard and accompanied by “hojaldras” fried dough. The night ended with decadent liquid custard covered chocolate bread pudding and served with a grapefruit gel. Contact information: Tel: +507-262-1682 reservas@dondejose.com Hours: Wed – Sat from 7:30 p.m. to 12:00 p.m. Location: Avenue A and Central Avenue, Casco Antiguo

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P.F. Chang’s China Bistro Take a “wok” on the wild side Originally from Arizona, P.F. Chang’s is a collection of over 250 restaurants around the world serving the highest quality products in a great lively, fun, and energetic, atmosphere with a friendly casual service. “To this day, we still hand roll dumplings, prep fresh proteins and receive fresh vegetables every morning, nothing is processed” says Sean Wagner, Regional Director of Enjoy Group developing the P.F. Chang’s project in Panama and other countries in the region. “Today, 70% of the dishes on the PF Chang’s menu are from the original menu” created by co-founder Phillip Chiang. The concept was created in the USA back in the days when Chinese food was only known in coastal cities like San Francisco or New York where you either found a good hole in the wall or a very high end classic Chinese restaurant. In 1993, over 20 years ago P.F. Chang’s broke all paradigms making high quality Chinese food accessible to everyone by offering traditional Asian cooking techniques and ingredients, but in a more comfortable service oriented environment 26

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The same great detail P.F. Chang’s puts into their food, they put into their drinks offering a delicious variety of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages such as the Strawberry Cucumber Limeade and the House Made Ginger Beer, prepared every day from a reduction of fresh ginger, lemon juice and sugarcane. Among the alcoholic beverages, the progressive wine list stands out, not only offering a great variety of wines but also they have categorized them by flavor profile rather than traditional grape or country characteristics. They went through a lot of detail to describe the wines so it is easier for the customer to choose their best personal preference, and 60% of them can be ordered by the glass. We recommend: Chang’s Spicy Chicken: At 800° F, marinated bite sized chicken is tossed in a wok with chives and a succulent sweet and spicy chili sauce. Mongolian beef: Thinly sliced flank steak stirred in the wok with boiling dark sauce that is caramelized to perfection and enhanced by fresh chives and garlic. Kung Pao Shrimp: Spicy and savory delicious crispy and lightly dusted shrimp cooked at 800°F

with chili paste, garlic, chives, chili peppers, peanuts, a touch of sesame oil and the chef’s secret sauce. Sweet and Sour Pork: Battered pork, onions, peppers and pineapple, served with a sweet and sour sauce. Singapore Street Noodles: Rice noodles with shrimp, chicken strips, cilantro, tomato and chives tossed in a Singapore curry base sauce and crowned with crispy red onions. The fresh aromatic cilantro plays an amazing flavor enhancing role. Banana Spring Rolls: Chinese spring rolls wrappers filled with bananas seasoned with sugar, cinnamon and the house 5 spices, served à la mode with seasonal berries and topped with a decadent caramel and the house vanilla sauce. We will continue to explore P.F. Chang’s menu and sample more alltime favorites. Contact information: Tel: +507 203-6588 Location: Multiplaza Mall, Punta Pacifica Hours: Sun-Thu from 12:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. and Fri-Sat from 12:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. www.pfchangs.com.pa


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El Atelier del Teatro Amador El Atelier has become one of our favorite spots in Casco Antiguo with its great atmosphere and casual bistro style, a smart industrial décor, an inviting garden with quite an entertaining open kitchen and its well-rounded menu with excellent service. This is a perfect place for a date, a celebration or to spend quality time with family and friends. The spoon behind El Atelier is held by Carlos J. Alba in collaboration with the creator of the concept and culinary advisor Andres Madrigal. Our choices for this particular night started with were the broken egg “huevo roto” a rich and flavorful dish consisting of potato foam, onion confit and Iberian ham crisps, served with artisan bread. Considered comfort food! The duck fries are outstanding, a fully self-indulging treat prepared with French fries, foie gras, truffle mayonnaise, an egg and crispy ham. Top choice for the true food lover. The Clam Bake “glorious”. A traditional San Francisco dock meal consisting of clams, shrimp, corn and micro herbs in an exquisite concoction with a hint of spice. A personal favorite. One of the most refreshing and flavorful salads we’ve had in a long time, artisan goat cheese, lettuce, daikon, thinly sliced beets and tomatoes. Perfectly dressed. If the menu includes fish tacos, then fish tacos we must have! We were not disappointed - the catch of the day was succulent, crispy, and delicious with sour cream and a spicy radish aioli. Delicate and crispy duck ramen gyozas in a soothing Kombu broth with carrots and chives. Last but not least a lemon Napoleon, a funky version of a cheese cake - sweet, salty, creamy, served with guava paste, cookie crisps, powdered sugar and micro herbs. Just plain delicious! Contact information: Tel: +507-212-1565 reservas@teatroamador.com www.atelier.teatroamador.com Location: Casco Antiguo & Central Avenue 28

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Jupi Gourmet - Family Mart

Even though Panama City has over 500 restaurants, it is sometimes difficult to get out of the comfort zone and try something new. On a lunch take out breaking pattern, we decided to drive around the office and check out one of the many restaurants in the area and that is how we stumbled upon Jupi Gourmet - Family Mart, oh yes Korean food!

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We started with Japche, sticky sweet potato noodles stir-fried with sesame oil, thinly sliced vegetables and beef seasoned with soy sauce and sesame seeds. It was love at first bite and continues to be our favorite Korean comfort food dish. The Dolsot Bap is a bowl of warm rice topped with perfectly seasoned sautéed vegetables and beef, served with chili pepper paste and topped with a fried egg. You mix it all together and there you go - a delicious and nutritious dish. The chili pepper paste is addictive. Soup is always good for the soul and the jam pong is quite a picker upper containing all the ingredients you need for a wholesome, nourishing and well balanced meal. A spicy soup served with noodles, mussels, shrimp, calamari and vegetables. The Korean BBQ pork is a very flavorful and entertaining dish; thinly sliced marinated beef, mushrooms, onions, scallions and garlic are brought to the table along with a gas stove for us to grill them to our taste. Once they are cooked you wrap them in iceberg lettuce and dip them in Korean BBQ sauce. Another at-table cooking delight is the chabu chabu, a delicious broth in which you cook fresh shrimp, cabbage, carrots, mushrooms, chives and noodles. If you ‘ve never had Korean food and do not know what to order, these dishes are a great introduction to the delicious Korean food served at Jupi Gourmet-Family Mart. Contact information: 71st Street San Francisco Tel: +507 203-8761 Hours: Tue – Sun from 10:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.

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WHERE

TONIGHT? Tántalo Rooftop Weekly theme nights and live music Casco Antiguo Tel: +507-262-4030 www.tantalohotel.com

El Pavo Real

British Pub Live Rock Via Argentina Tel: +507-394-6853 www.elpavoreal.net

El Sotano

Live rock Federico Boyd Avenue Tel: +507-269-7877

Relic Bar

Live DJs – Laid back Thursdays, Fridays & Saturdays Casco Antiguo Tel: +507-262-1540 www.relicbar.com 32

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Isabella

Live DJs / bands Terrazas Multiplaza Pacific Tel: +507-391-6008 www.isabella.com.pa

8°58° Lounge

Swanky The Bristol Hotel Tel:+507-264-0000 www.thebristol.com

Ego & Narciso Outdoor tapas Casco Antiguo Tel: +507-262-2045

Hard Rock Hotel Live rock & DJs Balboa Avenue Tel: +507-294-4000


TUCAN

COUNTRY CLUB & RESORT

Tucan Country Club & Resort is a living paradise just 15 minutes away from Panama City. Situated just across the bridge of The Americas, Tucan Country Club & Resort is a beautiful oasis that simply needs to be experienced by your five senses. Nestled between a lush green rainforest on one side and captivating panoramic views of the city skyline along with the Panama Canal on the other side, this spectacular Country Club & Resort simply takes your breath away. Tucan Country Club & Resort offers several home ownership / rental opportunities for apartments, villas and terrace condominiums. Each unit comes with central air conditioning, kitchen appliances and beautifully designed layouts. Best of all, investing in these properties has yet another great advantage; they are fully exempted from taxes! Our 18 hole golf course, is one of the most sought after and desired places in Panama City. Living a Tucan lifestyle means, you get to enjoy fabulous amenities such as: a holistic wellness center & spa, a well-equipped gymnasium, four paddle tennis courts , a restaurant with exotic gourmet food and many more surprises!

Tucan Country Club & Resort offers you more than a lifestyle; it gives you a chance to live in paradise! Tel: +507-211-7777 Toll free number: 1-866-608-3640 Calle Brujas, Cocoli, Arraijan, Panama, Republic of Panama. www.tucancountryclub.com Panama 9째80째

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THE ISLAND OF THE FLOWERS Taboga Island is just a short ferry ride from the Amador Causeway. There are two companies providing daily services and the round trip cost is about $14.00 per person.

There are a few things to consider before visiting Taboga Island: First, purchase your ticket in advance if you are planning to go on a weekend because Saturdays and Sundays are popular with local Panamanians and either you are left behind or you have to wait in a tedious line to get your ticket.

We recommend that you go on a weekday to experience the calm and beauty of the island; Sundays can be too noisy and crowded, unless of course you like noisy and crowded then a DJ and jet ski rentals are in order. Neither the Calypso ferry nor most of the businesses on the island take credit cards, so make sure to bring enough cash to pay for meals and tours. Renting a small boat to cruise around the island costs $40.00, renting a kayak for an hour costs $10.00 and renting a beach chair with an umbrella costs $10.00.

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Playa Restinga is the most popular beach, there you can relax in beach chairs overlooking the Panama city skyline. There are basic food and beverage services available so if you are a foody, we recommend you bring your picnic basket from the city. Close by the beach lie the remains of what once was Hotel Taboga. Playa Honda, located on the left side of the dock is also popular and is closer to restaurants with facilities and has views of the colorful town all the way to the Cross Mountain. Aspinwall beach is famous for its coral reefs and snorkeling. Take a walk around town and visit the second oldest church in the Americas, check out the local village along narrow streets, or take a taxi ride to get to know the island. This sleepy little island town’s history includes tales from the Spanish conquerors and British pirates and served as a United States defense base as well as an exclusive weekend hideaway for generations of well- to-do Panamanians. If you feel like escaping the hustle and bustle of Panama city and enjoying a day in the sun and cool fresh air, Taboga is the perfect place for a short break. Transportation: Calypso Tel: +507-20314-17-30 National Tours Tel: +507-20314-0571

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DAY TOUR IDEAS IN PANAMA CITY Sponsored by

The Panama Canal

If you do nothing else in Panama, go see the Canal, you won’t be sorry. Just 30 minutes from downtown, the Visitor’s Center at the Miraflores locks has a museum, gift shop, restaurant and observation deck where you can watch the behemoth ships pass through the locks. It truly is a modern marvel. In contrast to the more historically and socially focused Museo del Canal Interoceanico, the Miraflores Visitor’s Center concentrates on the science, technology and environment behind the functioning of the Canal. The center is worth an afternoon of exploration. Opening hours: Mon – Sun (holidays included) from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tel: +507 272 1111 Tickets: nonresidents: adults $15.00, children $10.00

Casco Antiguo

Charming narrow streets, colorful buildings mirroring the multicultural Panamanian history, exciting cultural attractions and an array of hotels, cafes, bars, nightclubs, restaurants and art galleries are luring people from all over to this little corner of the world. In 1673, after the sacking of Panama Viejo by Welsh privateer Henry Morgan, what is now the Casco Antiguo became the setting for Panama’s second capital city. The new city was surrounded by a wall to protect it from further pillaging. An eclectic blend of French, Spanish and American architecture developed as the country evolved.

Inter-Oceanic Canal Museum

If you are going to visit only one museum in Panama, this is the one. With 10 permanent exhibitions that trace the construction of the Panama Canal and its impact on Panamanian history and society, the museum deserves at least a couple of hours in order to appreciate and absorb the wealth of information available. Museum highlights include the 1977 Carter-Torrijos treaty by which the US turned over control of the Canal Zone areas to Panama; several multimedia and interactive exhibits that can keep even the most hyper of museum-goers busy; and dioramas of everyday life throughout the history of the Canal. Guided tours are available in both Spanish and English to help navigate the abundant information. Opening hours: From 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Tel: +507 211 1649 www.museodelcanal.com 38

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Visit an Indigenous Tribe

Discover the fascinating timeless lifestyle of the Embera indigenous tribe, an ethnic minority that survived the arrival of the conquistadors and continues to exist today. Embark on a journey by canoe along the Chagres river and through the lush tropical rainforest and learn about their culture, everyday life and traditions. The Embera are famous for their basketry and woodwork among other handicrafts. This is one of the top recommended tours while visiting Panama City.

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Panama Viejo

UNESCO World Heritage Site Panama La Vieja, commonly known as Panama Viejo, is the site of the original Panama City founded in 1519 by Pedro Arias de Dávila. This was the first Spanish settlement on the Pacific coast of the Americas. Located on the far eastern side of the current city, these ruins are all that remains of the original city which was burned down by Welsh Buccaneer Henry Morgan in 1671. Since much of the original city was made of wood, the ruins are not that extensive, although they are well-maintained and make for an interesting visit. The visitor center at Panama La Vieja has a collection of the archaeological finds and information about the history of the site.

MUSEO ANTROPOLOGICO REINA TORRES DE ARAÚZ

Its collection of 15,000 pre-Columbian ceramic, sandstone and ethnographic pieces is by far the largest grouping of anthropocentric historical artifacts in Panama City. The museum tour begins in the hall dedicated to Torres de Arauz and moves to the Hall of Gold which houses an interesting collection of Huacas, the small ceremonial preColumbian treasures found in indigenous graves. Also featured are objects from the Barriles tribe, Panama’s earliest residents who inhabited the isthmus until 700 B.C. The museum also has exhibits of household items and farm tools demonstrating modern Panamanian life and culture. Address: Ave. Juan Pablo II, Llanos de Curundú. Opening hours: Tue - Sun from 10:00 a. m. to 4:00 p. m. Telephone: +507 501 4761

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Contact ArrivalGuides Panama at +507-3943452 or write to info@arrivalguidespanama.com


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Photo by Red Frog

RED FROG Resort BEACH ISLAND & Spa

offers some of Bocas del Toro’s most upscale accommodations. The island setting features stunning Caribbean sea views paired with natural amenities such as private plunge pools and large balconies. Onsite activities include several beautiful beaches, beachfront restaurant, a spa, a picturesque marina, nearby activity pavilion, and a Zipline Canopy Tour—one of the best in Central America. Explore the island’s nature trails that lead to Caribbean white sand beaches and encounter capuchin monkeys, lazy tree sloths and other native wildlife. There is also a variety of tours to neighboring keys in the archipelago. Set out by boat to see the dolphins, enjoy snorkeling amid colorful fish and reefs, visit a working chocolate farm, or explore underground caves. Guided fishing charters also are available! It is an island-hopping destination to explore both beaches and tropical forest that make up the nine inhabited islands and nearly 300 small island islets that create the Bocas archipelago. www.redfrogbeach.com

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Bocas del

Toro

Bocas del Toro continues to be the top beach destination in Panama because of its pristine beaches, great surf, amazing lush tropical forests, world class chocolate, lively nightlife and the cool laid back Caribbean vibe. Bocas welcomes people from different continents, creeds and age groups and what really makes Bocas del Toro special is its people and heritage. Next time you decide to indulge in some “Island Time Man” make sure to follow some of our suggestions and visit www.locationpanama.com for more information about Bocas del Toro. 44

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Rent a scooter and discover the island

Party to the beat of the best music in town at Iguanas

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Eat healthy at a the Leaf Eater Cafe

Get the ultimate falafel from a food truck

Take a tour of the islands

Check out the sunset at The Blue Coconut

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RANDOM ART Random Art, located in Isla Colon, is a cozy hideaway where both children and adults can explore and expand their painting abilities and let their creativity run wild. Owner Christin Fjeld tells us “I love the opportunity to teach children and adults to see the world in detail and not just a blur. When you pay attention and learn to see color, it changes your perception of your surroundings and you don’t see for example green you see a whole range of colors from pale yellow to dark purple, shadows and light. “To be able to finish a project is satisfying at any age, however the earlier you learn self-discipline the better and because art is stimulating and rewarding, it makes you happy. I believe there’s an artist in everybody just hoping to be given a chance. Anything is better than a white paper. I started the paint and wine evenings with adults because sometimes we need to let go of our pre conceived notions of what we are able to do and not do and art, wine, friends and food is a good combination for inspiration. Children are more open to try anything because they haven’t learned to judge their limits.” Random Art offers painting and cooking classes for children and adults and, in addition, Christin, a published cookbook author also offers her services as a private chef. Information: Children’s art class: Mon- Tue- Thu- Fri - from 3:30 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. (Friday is free to native Panamanian children) Adult art class: Wed – from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Adult cooking class: Thu – from 10:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. Adult wine & painting dinner (Check the monthly schedule) Location: Isla Colon Tel: +507-6627-5906 christinfjeld@aol.com Facebook: Random Art Bocas www.caribbeanartcooking.com Panama 9°80° www.locationpanama.com

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The art of Julie JORGENSEN

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LILIA

Mixed media on heavy black paper. Lili’s husband, Barry had asked me months ago to do a portrait of Lili. I have known her for years and she is a dear friend of mine. To me, she is everything good in the world and beyond. A great confidant as well as incredibly fun. A true Caribbean Queen. She is also one of most colorful people I know in every sense of the term....so for some time I had thought of how to capture her spirit as it is large and all encompassing. I was also in a creative slump so I decided doing Lili would either crush me or bring me back to the surface. I thumbed through a Sci Fi fantasy art illustration book my uncle sent me for inspiration and found a poster that was created for an art school using a human figure filled with the sea to illustrate how ideas may come from within and rise to the top, with that in mind, I began, and as it went, her illumination and oneness with the universe came into play as did some very cool iridescent paints to capture her place in all there is as far as we know.

BOOTY CALLS

Mixed water media I like to do art that has a value to tourists and captures Bocas and all that it is, from the quaint wood homes over the water (before they are all gone) to the flora and fauna. As Bocas was a pirate haven, this one was a no brainer. My sweetheart, Ray, was a treasure diver for Mel Fischer and suggested an undersea view of an eagle ray glancing the bottom stirring up emeralds and booty from a not so long ago sunken treasure ship. Ray had plenty of books for reference to keep things authentic and was also here for consultation so once it started, it happened very quickly. In the end, I did manage to capture the mystery and the allure of treasure and crystal waters that surround Bocas, as well as some of the sea creatures we share the area with. Julie also makes logos, t-shirt designs, cartoons, commissioned portraits of most anything and fine art that is inspired by living in the islands of Panama. You can find her art at Island Traders and Random Art in Bocas del Toro panamanana@cwpanama.net www.jorgensenartworks.com

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CASA DE MONTAÑA BED & BREAKFAST

Nestled in the heart of the province of Chiriqui, this boutique Bed & Breakfast is a new gem in the town of Boquete. We were pleasantly surprised to see the high quality construction, modern, comfortable furnishings and attention to detail – right down to separate make-up and shoe towels in a basket on the bathroom counters! 50

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Located only a short walk from the center of town in the Los Naranjos area of Boquete, a few houses up the hill from the famous Café Ruiz, Casa de Montaña Bed & Breakfast could not have been built in a better part of town. Its close proximity to the town center, ample guest parking and short taxi rides (for people who don´t feel like walking!), make it an ideal place for visitors who are looking for an in-town option for accommodations while not having to give up any of the creature comforts discerning travelers have come to enjoy (and expect) from high quality owner-run Bed & Breakfasts in other parts of the world. Casa de Montaña Bed & Breakfast has six rooms to choose from – two on the main floor with outside access and a front row view of one of the two water features that book-end each side of the verdant hill on the south part of the property. The other four rooms are located on the second floor, each with its own private balcony and an in suite bathroom. The rooms have panoramic views of the Alto Lino and Jaramillo Mountains located a short distance from the property. Common areas and covered terraces abound at this property. As one of the guests told us “the owners have thought of everything!” We now realize what the guest meant – they serve a full international breakfast daily on the back patio which happens to have a breathtaking mountain view, several tables to choose from as well as a comfortable seating area with a TV and a fireplace. The international breakfast menu is designed so that each day of the week one can enjoy a totally different breakfast. Also, they offer a free alcoholic or non-alcoholic beverage during the evening social hour, at the upstairs bar area, where guests have a chance to talk to the owners and share the stories of their travels. The social hour is truly a time when travelers get a chance to feel at home at the Bed & Breakfast and some might say, with Boquete. On many occasions, friends of the owners may stop by for a drink and chat with the guests as well. The owners and the local residents are a great source of valuable information especially if a guest is considering relocating to Panama. Even though Manzar Lari and Terry Richmeier, the owners of Casa de Montaña Bed & Breakfast, relocated to Panama just over a year ago from Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA, their actual journey started several years prior to that and what a journey it was! Manzar recalls watching a show on TV where he first saw images of Boquete and instantaneously felt a spiritual connection to the area. It didn’t take any time at all for him to convince Terry to fly down to Panama in the spring of 2009. A two week road trip through Panama and Costa Rica sealed the deal for them. What seemed to be a distant dream five years ago started to materialize because of their passion and dedication to re-invent themselves. Manzar, a psychologist and a life coach, helped set the vision and goals and Terry, who is a true “task master” (Manzar’s words!) kept moving forward and their corporate jobs in the U.S. soon became a thing of the past. While this journey has not been without its challenges, it has truly been a life changing experience for both of them. Manzar and Terry are looking forward to hosting you at Casa de Montaña Bed & Breakfast. As they often mention to their guests…

“This is your home while you are staying with us. We want you to experience the real Boquete, not as a tourist, but as someone who truly belongs here!” Boquete, Chiriqui Tel: US & Canada: +952-931-9770 Tel: Panama: +507 730-9472 www.casademontana.com

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Photo by IM

ESA FLACA RICA FOOD TRUCK (Skinny Lady Food Truck)

The new kid in town is Esa Flaca Rica Food Truck, a creation of Mosto Bistro owner and chef Fulvio Miranda who wanted yet another channel to express his creativity and passion about food in a fun casual way. Instagram fans follow Esa Flaca Rica all over David city and when the truck parks, hundreds of people drop by, from hipsters, surfers and businessmen to families with kids in pajamas looking for that special treat. The menu offers around 5 dining options, portions are generous and there’s a sitting area where you can enjoy your meal or you can take it to go. One of the most delicious dishes is the Mondongo (tripe), a traditional dish served in Latin America. Chef Fulvio says that the secret to it is to choose a good product knowing it has been properly handled, pre-cooked many times, marinated a whole day in Carta Vieja Rum (rum made in Chiriqui), then seasoned with salt, pepper and garlic, sautéed with onions and then cooked in a traditional country rustic stew with creole peppers, garlic, onions, broth and prepared with a whole lot of love. Jokingly he says “many people can be snobbish about this dish, but you have no idea how many BMWs pull over at the truck to order pots of Mondongo to go and even more extreme, some people ship it by plane to get a taste of it in Panama City”. Welcome To Tijuana Burritos is the hunger quencher, filled with rice, pork, chicken, spicy sauce, cilantro seeds, pickles onions, chives and topped with a garlic mayonnaise and a tree tomato marmalade. Chef Fulvio gets fresh fish from the coasts of Chiriqui, specifically from port Pedregal to prepare his ceviche. He says,

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“The preparation of ceviche is the same all over Panama, the secret is knowing the balance of the ingredients, being lime, onions, cilantro and especially the hot peppers not only for their kick but for their flavor”. The hojaldra melt was inspired by a Cuban sandwich, however Fulvio wanted his food to reflect the Panamanian cuisine and the hojaldra (fried dough) is one of the most popular items. The hojaldra is pre-baked then deep fried, then goes to the grill with cheddar cheese, pickled cabbage and onions, pickles a dash sugar, pulled pork shoulder grilled with mustard and ginger, grilled onions marinated with scotch and a garlic and lemon zest mayonnaise. He says “a Cuban but Chiriqui style and with flair”. Chef Miranda says “The moment I saw the truck I knew it had to be mine, it is always the dream of a cook to leave all the protocols behind and to cook real down to earth food with feeling and flavor”. To find Esa Flaca Rica follow Chef Fulvio Miranda’s Instagram account: FULVIO2177 Facebook Esaflacarica Tue to Sun from 5:00 p.m.

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PARADISE IN

BOQUETE BY TOM BRYMER

Photo by IM

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We have been taking people around Boquete looking at places to live, invest in land and business opportunities and every time I go out, I see another place that reminds me of the first trip that I took here in 2006. On my first road trip to Boquete, I knew I had finally found a place that I had always dreamed about. Three months later, I purchased my home and my family set up camp here in the western highlands bordering Costa Rica. With that, I bring you the third in this year´s series of road trips to places that I call Paradise.

Good morning Boquete! The mountains shrug off the clouds like a blanket early in the morning as the sun lights up the peaks. Boquete is a small town on the Caldera River, tucked into the green mountain highlands of Panama, in western-most Chiriquí Province, about 60 km from the border with Costa Rica. Because of its altitude, some 1,200 meters above sea level, its climate is refreshingly cooler than that of the lowlands. Its scenic location, temperature, and natural environment make it extremely popular with Panamanians, and with tourists from all over the world. In Spanish, the word Boquete means ‘gap or opening’. It was through this gap that curious gold seekers trekked, looking for a cheaper and quicker way to the Pacific. Farmers began settling the region near the end of the 19th century. By the early 20th century, several villages had been populated. In addition to tourism, its main industry remains agriculture, especially the growing of coffee beans. Some of its landmarks include nearby Volcán Barú, a dormant volcano and, at 3,475 meters or over 11,000 feet, the tallest point of land in Panama. Hikers enjoy a relatively easy hike up and over the volcano, along the Sendero de los Quetzales, which runs from Boquete up to Cerro Punta and Volcan, on the other side of the volcano. Boquete is well known for its coffee, judged to be among the finest in the world. The Caldera River runs through the town, a river that has shaped much of its form. The district of Boquete has approximately 20,000 inhabitants. More recently, Boquete has become the second home to many North American and European retirees. Some 14% of its population are of foreign origin, according to La Prensa, a national newspaper. Expats are attracted by the comfortable climate, excellent potable water, and clean air, by the tranquility, and by Panama’s relatively low cost of living. AARP consistently ranks Boquete in the top ten places to retire in the world. Our little pueblo is a gated community a short walk from town called Valle Escondido and our home sits above the river in the valley and 5th hole on the golf course. Views down the valley are incredible and the climate is eternal spring-like weather. We have golf, a country club, and a member’s lounge where every Friday night there is a social. We enjoy Valle Escondido and our many friends who live here. There are also a number of good restaurants and places to go to for parties and entertainment in town. We recently hosted an International Jazz Fest and next year we will be hosting an International Film Festival like the ones held in Europe and North America! We even have a little Broadway here in Boquete with the local players´ theatre doing Chicago, Cabaret and more.

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By definition, Boquete is like a large ecological community or eco village. “Eco villages are intentional communities with the goal of becoming more socially, economically and ecologically sustainable and allow for social networks within a broader foundation of support. Intentional living typically refers to an individual’s awareness and choice of lifestyle. However, whereas lifestyle refers to a way of life or style of living that reflects the attitudes and values of a person or group, intentional living refers not simply to any way of life, but to those intentionally chosen by an individual based on awareness of her/his values and fundamental beliefs.” I find that a great description of Boquete and the people who have come here to live and participate in community. We have a constant here in Boquete that draws people from around the world to come here and live. Clean air, abundant sources of water, amazing flowers, beautiful rivers, and of course plenty of rainbows. Our area grows 80% of the fresh produce for Panama, offers an affordable lifestyle, good healthcare and a town where kids can go out at night and not have to worry about getting into trouble (or at least the bad kind!). For the retiree, there is plenty to do and numerous organizations to participate in. The Rotary is very active here and its membership is growing with expats wanting to give something back to the community. The other reason that I fell in love with living here in the mountains is the fact that I can live where it is cool but within an hour and a half, I can be on a boat headed out to islands and fishing spots in the Pacific ocean that rival the best in the world. We arrive early in the morning and can meet a local captain who we go out with to the islands in a small panga and set off on another journey. Boca Chica has some of the most beautiful coast line in Panama and a national marine park comprised of dozens of little tropical islands and sandy coves that remind one of Robinson Crusoe. All of this is a short flight from the US and Panama City where at the end of the day, you could be up here enjoying the rainbows with us.

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What to expect in BOQUETE: CLIMATE: Temperate with two distinct seasons, wet (April to November) and dry (December to March). Much cooler than the lowlands and beaches. EXPAT COMMUNITY: An estimated several thousand. COST OF LIVING: One can live comfortably on $20,000 a year. Domestic and garden help: about $15 daily. Dinner out: $30 for two. HOUSING COSTS: In Boquete, a small house goes for $175,000; in a gated community, $250,000 and up. Rentals: about $600 a month for a two-bedroom house.

Tuesday Market at BCP Photo by IM

HEALTH CARE: Good, with private clinics available. For serious medical matters, residents travel to hospitals in David, 45 minutes away, or to Panama City. Hospital Punta Pacifica in Panama City is affiliated with Johns Hopkins Medicine International and has US- trained doctors.

CULTURE AND LEISURE: Rainforest hiking, river rafting, bird-watching, and coffee-plantation tours, exploring the coastal waters offshore one hour away from the mountains. The Panama Perspective tbrymer@brymerpa.com www.panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com

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ON THE ROAD One of the many perks of Panama City is its closeness to the “dry arch”, kilometers of beaches along the Pacific coast. During the week, people lead a hectic life and work hard and on the weekends many escape to their beach house or hotels to kick back and enjoy a day in the sun. That is what Panama is all about - work hard, play hard.

Along the Pan-American highway from the Bridge of the Americas all the way to Buenaventura you will see street vendors, little restaurants and bakeries and you may not know where to stop or what to get or you may be afraid to try unknown things, but fear no more, we are here to help by making a selection of some of the places and items you shouldn’t miss if you are on the road, which is the best way to get to know Panama. (Food to go items have been arranged based on the distance from the Bridge of the Americas)

Views from El Alcazar, Coronado Beach Photo by IM

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FOOD TO GO! Coordinates for your GPS: 79.86959947224466 (Capira)

Delicias Margot

8.797421,-

Delicias Margot is a great example of Panamanian cuisine traditionally served during small town celebrations. Here you can sample tamales and bollos which are similar to tamales but sweeter. There are two kinds of bollos, plain or with stuffing, the second ones are called bollos preñados, literally meaning pregnant. More specialities include chorizo Santeño made Los Santos province style, pork rind, roasted pork, corn fritters called torrejitas, hojaldres (fried dough), yucca fritters called carimañolas and all this can be washed down with a lemonade sweetened with molasses block shavings. Let’s say this place will not be endorsed by the American Heart Association but it is well worth the visit.

Coordinates for your GPS: 8.752589098843305,79.8790168762207 (Capira) Queso Chela is the queen of artisan cheeses, butter and bread in Panama. Some of the favorite items at Queso Chela are the egg bread called pan de moña (pronounced monyah), meat and chicken empanadas, artisan goat cheese, string cheese, smoked cheese, herb cheese, the traditional Panamanian whole milk cheese and Panamanian beverages called “chichas”. Chicheme is a type of chicha which is a sweet corn and milk based drink that contains corn kernels so be careful with your straw since we don’t want anybody choking. There are also buttermilk chichas and the popular kool aid with canned fruit cocktail called chicha de tutti frutti. It can be challenging and may require some patience to get your goodies on time because Queso Chela is always full of people ordering in mayhem very similar to the stock market. This is the #1 spot where Panamanians stop on a road trip.

Queso Chela

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El Pampero Coordinates for your GPS: 8.583009164668445,79.88440019116882 (Bejuco) El Pampero is famous for its homemade variety of chorizos, especially the “choripan” chorizo on a bun topped with their house specialty garlic sauce. Even though the restaurant has seating, facilities and an á la carte menu, many people prefer to stop and purchase pounds of chorizo and the signature sauce to go to barbecue at their beach house. Their take out service is very fast if you want your choripan to go . The quality and flavor of the chorizos are great and that is why this is also one of the Panamanian’s top highway pit stops.

El Cevichito de San Carlos Coordinates for your GPS: 8.476065155049275,79.95931148529053 (San Carlos)

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El Cevichito is one of those holes in the wall whose food really stands out. Here you can eat standing up at a rustic cocktail table and sample multiple ceviches, or you can order to go as many neighboring beach community residents do. The shrimp ceviche is a personal favorite followed by the scallop ceviche. They also serve octopus, conch and a ceviche medley and the most popular beverage to accompany ceviche is, of course, beer. If you plan to eat your ceviche on the road, we recommend that you transfer it to a larger container. At El Cevichito de San Carlos, they fill up the cup all the way to the top with ceviche juice to preserve the freshness of the ceviche and there is no way to avoid spillage, so bring a taller plastic container or request a tall plastic glass and you and your car will be fine.

Coordinates for your GPS: 8.470927474237165,79.96233215758855 (El Palmar, San Carlos) Carlitos is famous for their variety of succulent Argentinian empanadas. Some of the favorites are the cheese, the beef and raisin, the chicken, and the beef and corn. They also serve a wide variety of pizzas one of the most popular being the mozzarella, ham, egg and golf sauce. The empanadas make a perfect meal on the road!

Carlitos Pizza Empanadas

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Dare to stop!

Blue Crab

You can find most of the blue crab vendors around 27 kms past the Bridge of the Americas. Have you ever seen crab being sold on the side of the Pan-American road? Have you ever wondered if it’s good? Well…they are delicious! The average allotment of crab costs around $15.00 and will feed about 3 people. They should be living when you purchase them and should be cooked as soon as you get home as they have to be put in boiling water alive. Cook them for an hour in salted boiling water, place newspapers all over the table and enjoy the crab meat in the claws and the legs. If you don’t have the proper utensils to extract the meat, be creative with a cutting board and a river rock or a rolling pin. It is pure messy selfindulgence. Tip: place them inside of a cardboard, dry cooler or something to prevent any liquids from touching your car carpet.

All over the Panamerican Highway Eat healthy and help local families be sustainable. It is perfectly safe to stop at the street vendors along the Pan-American Highway. Many of them offer tropical fruits you may recognize such as mangoes, bananas, watermelons, pineapples and much more. If you live in Panama, we recommend you purchase the pixbae in a bunch and boil it in hot water with salt for 2 hours. You can peel them and eat them with mayonnaise, add them to a salad, prepare a creamy soup similar to the cashew soup or you can even pickle them. If you are just visiting, it is easier to purchase them already cooked and just peel and enjoy. If you ever see little yellow fruit in a bottle be aware that although nance is an acquired taste and some Panamanians like it, the water in which they are preserved has a strong off-putting and nauseating smell. Handle with care and find a recipe for “pesada de nance” at www.locationpanama.com

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Tropical Fruits


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