Panama 980 Edition 24 by Irma Marengo 980

Panama’s Lifestyle & Travel Magazine

Summer

HOTEL FEATURE CASA DEL HORNO VOLCANO EL VALLE THE QUEST FOR TAPAS IN PANAMA

EDITION 24

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PEDASI

THE QUEST FOR TAPAS IN PANAMA

NEWS

VOLCANO EL VALLE

TUCAN COUNTRY CLUB & RESORT

THE PATH BETWEEN THE VOLCANO AND THE VALLEY

SAILING IN BOCAS DEL TORO

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CASA DEL HORNO

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GENERAL MANAGER Irma Marengo SALES sales@panama980.com GRAPHIC DESIGN Falina Pérez de Valverde WRITERS Irma Marengo John Allen Bennett Novey Karina Sanin panama’s lifestyle & travel magazine Thomas Brymer COLLABORATORS Bernard and France Marcheix Melody Chemier www.nativatours.com Aeroperlas

The name 9°80° is derived from the country’s location on the world map – 9 degrees north of the equator, 80 degrees west of the prime meridian.

PHOTOGRAPHY Irma Marengo Jean Pierre Brion Jorge Bennett PEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY Stavros Tzokonas Contact information Phone: 394-3452 info@panama980.com www.locationpanama.com

Panama 9°80° es publicada por Latin American Trails, Inc. Las opiniones y recomendaciones de los autores y artistas que aparecen en Panama 9°80° no necesariamente reflejan las opiniones de la empresa. Panama 9°80° no asume responsabilidad por los productos o servicios que se anuncian en la revista, ni por errores de contenido impreso. No está permitido reproducir, total o parcialmente el contenido de esta publicación sin previo permiso escrito de Latin American Trails, Inc. © 2011 Todos los derechos reservados. RUC: 506094-01-436477 DV:91 Impreso por Panamericana Formas e Impresos S.A Impreso en Colombia © 2011 Todos los derechos reservados.

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photo by peppophotography

Casa del Horno

Sense and sensitivity in Casco Antiguo, a joy for all passionate about art, music, wine and life. Two young Italian entrepreneurs traveled to Panama a few years ago, fell in love with the country and decided to move here, bringing all their innovative ideas and their European heritage. Their first project was DiVino, a specialized wine bar located in Avenue A. Casco Antiguo, where you get to pair wines with traditional dishes, as well as to share the wine culture with friends. Casa del Horno became their next ambitious project, the whole concept was thoughtfully created by them along with the architect. Recently opened in May 2011 and restored around the concept of creating a balance between past and present, the building was carefully crafted integrating contemporary elements without disturbing its original structure. The origins of the building date back to the 1800’s when the French had a strong influence in Panama’s daily life. It’s been said that Casa Del Horno or The Oven House was the city’s bakery, providing one of the essential items on any dinner table.

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photo by peppophotography

The contrast of the original 1800’s stonewalls, wooden and Italian porcelain floors, magnificent artwork throughout the building and contemporary furnishings melt together to create a sophisticated, yet warm and relaxing atmosphere, where you automatically disconnect from the mundane world. Casa del Horno, located in Avenue B, Casco Antiguo has 8 cozy and ample apartment style rooms

with tall ceilings, balconies, living rooms, fully equipped kitchens, dining table, great illumination and superb furnishings bringing a touch of Europe to a tropical city. There are 6 deluxe rooms available and 2 penthouse loft style apartments for your convenience. The carefully chosen artwork by iconic artists like Sandra Eleta and emerging artists like Sergio Ochoa and Boris Pérez are carefully and cleverly displayed around the property, transmitting a colorful touch of cultural heritage that creates a balance with the minimalist architecture of the building…. the portraits just speak to you.

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All the furniture was imported from Indonesia by Verónica Vallarino from Downtown Living, who helped create the atmosphere along with architect Ramón Zafrani. Every single detail was well thought out to create the perfect scenario meant to enhance the senses and most of all, make you feel at home.

photo by peppophotography

A walk through your senses:

Casa del Horno´s philosophy is that the experience has to appeal to all the senses, the visual part with the decoration, the touch with comfortable furnishings and warm materials, the taste with the wine cellars, their Café and soon to open restaurant, and the sound with the most amazing music selection, every single element is orchestrated to put you in the right mood to enjoy your stay and just relax, and make yourself at home.

Another great addition to Casa del Horno is Café del Horno A traditional Italian café that serves fresh and light food, such as salads, paninis, tramezzini, heavenly desserts, coffee, natural juices and breakfast.

PANAMA 9°80° photo by peppophotography

photo by peppophotography

Casa del Horno never standardizes the experience, every experience is tailor-made. There is a new restaurant and hotel underway and we look forward to these young entrepreneurs´ new culinary and hospitality endeavors; they are very good at providing pleasant surprises.

Cheers!

Amenities and services Fully equipped Italian kitchen Wine cellars LCD TV with satellite programming Sound system with Ipod docking station Airport transportation 24 hour personalized concierge Clerk and business services Free internet Daily newspaper of your choice Laundry and dry cleaning services Private dinners and wine tasting with our certified sommelier In room massage or spa referrals Personalized tours 14

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Café del Horno is open daily from 6:30 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. Contact information: Telephone: + (507) 212-0052 Fax: + (507) 212-0067 e-mail: casadelhorno.net www.casadelhorno.net

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Volcano El Valle John Allen Bennett Novey

Fifty one miles West of Panama City, as the crow flies, there once roared a great volcano, formed by the subduction of the South American Nasca continental plate beneath the Caribbean Plate, where the Isthmus of Panama is perched upon. There are three plates colliding in Panama, the two already mentioned and a third one west of the Nasca Plate, the Coco’s Plate, whose subduction is responsible for the formation of the volcanoes closer to the Panama Costa Rican border. “El Valle de Antón” (the Anton Valley) is a quaint country town nestled inside the caldera of a once magnificent colossus, whose eruptions modified the shape of the Panamanian Isthmus from the Caribbean to the Pacific, making the narrow isthmus look somewhat like a snake, whose middle bulges out after eating something large; yet therein lies the beauty of it all. About one million years later what is left is a natural marvel sculpted into Panama’s central mountain range.

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photo by Jorge Bennett

As a visitor approaches the long subdued monster of old from the southern coast of Panama, he notices that the landscape has changed. The earth is no longer the classic orange earth color of much of Panama’s soil; it is now grayish white, for the volcano covered the breadth of the Isthmus, from the Caribbean to the Pacific, with a carpet of volcanic sand. Toward the Pacific coast you will notice the rivers no longer can be easily seen from a car when you pass a bridge, for they have scoured their way down to the basalt rock some two hundred feet or more below. This can also be appreciated at the beaches south of El Valle, which are also formed of volcanic sand, and where you can see cliffs dropping down to the sea, somewhat reminiscent of the White Cliffs of Dover; mute reminder of the forces that set this scenery.

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When you finally wind yourself onto the rim of the slumbering caldera, you are taken in by its six mile wide radius, and the perfectly level valley floor below, dotted with quaint summer homes of Panamanians and of the native Indians who lived here since before the Spanish Conquest. If the frivolous cloud cover favors you, you will have a clear view of the entire caldera, against the backdrop of the three major mountains at the northern end of the valley. They are three enormous lava domes that were extruded skyward long ago. Some of the more adventurous might hike up to the top of El Gaital, the tallest of the three. It is a marvel of varying vegetation that slowly changes from the typical, relatively stunted growth of trees deformed by the high winds of the area, to a ghostly stunted rainforest reminiscent of a scene from the original movie of King Kong. All tree branches are covered with sopping wet moss and lichens of all kinds, until you find yourself walking over a tangle of roots whose soil has been washed away by the constant rains. And finally, if you are lucky and have a clear day, looking south you will see the Pacific Ocean, as its discoverer Vasco Nuñez de Balboa once saw it and looking north you will see the Caribbean Sea.

But since the valley is surrounded by mountains, there are others that can be negotiated more kindly, such as “La India Dormida” (the sleeping Indian maiden); a mountain to the west of the caldera valley, that when viewed from the town looks very much like a sleeping maiden and where you can also see petroglyphs. Curiously, there is much to be investigated and reported with regard to the history of the inhabitants of El Valle. For those of us who were raised in summer homes here, there is profuse evidence of the people who lived here before Colonial times, for anytime you are digging to make a pool or such, you will find pottery shards; most likely discarded artifacts of its ancient dwellers. There is a museum where you can see some of these items and part of the history. After the arrival of the Spanish, the Indians seemed to have moved out of the Valley, most probably avoiding unpleasant encounters with the invaders. PANAMA 9°80° www.locationpanama.com

George Novey, Amalia Garrido, family and friends taking a dip in a mountain river 1930s.

My family has an interesting relationship with this place of fables,

for my great grandmother traveled from Panama’s capital in a sloop to the coastal town of San Carlos, from where she was carried in a hammock up to the Valley, where she would take thermal baths to cure ailments. In 1929 my grandfather, George F. Novey, built a home for my grand uncle, Toño Garrido; probably the first summer home of Panamanian’s from Panama City. In 1930 he built himself his own prefab home of Celotex (cardboard) and wood; where many of us were conceived for it was the traditional family honeymoon destination, where the bed of the main bedroom had a curious tendency to come apart sometimes during the night.

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George was a New Yorker who came to Panama during the Canal construction and married Amalia Garrido, daughter of the landlady of the rental home where George lived. My father was also an American who was raised on a farm in Worcester, Massachusetts and traveled to Panama with the United States Fruit Co. on a temporary assignment, that became not so temporary, after he married George Novey’s daughter. At the time, the road to the Valley only reached the rim of the crater and from there the materials and supplies, as well as people had to be carried down to the floor of the Valley on horses or mules. When George finally had his cardboard house ready and they would set up lunch on an open porch, they would be surrounded by the natives, who would stare endlessly at George, until my grandmother finally inquired about this. The natives said they “had never seen a person with eyes the color of the sky.” Later on, when the road was finally built down into the Valley and the first cars came along a bend, the natives would panic and stampede down the road, sprinting ever faster as the driver honked his horn to get them to move to the side of the road.

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There are many wonders in this crater, Not the least of which is its weather and burst of powerful winter winds that Panamanians call “summer winds” for it is the dry season. But still the water from the sky is present in the form of blowing and swirling drizzle Foehn Winds, blown down the mountain sides of El Gaital, that locals calls “bajareque.” One moment the air is perfectly still and then you hear a sound as if a freight train is bearing down on you, and then a gust of wind of more than 40 knots slams into you, shrouded in a mist of bajareque. These winds led me to compose a poem on one of those windy afternoons sitting on the very same chair where Irving, my father, loved to sit with a drink and a book, in plain view of El Gaital, which is the name of the poem. The floor of the Valley was a lake after the formation of the caldera and through the centuries and millennia, the soft sandy sides of the rim filled in the lower parts, flattening it out, until the water finally broke through a narrow gorge at the south western end, where nowadays you can visit the famous falls of Las Mozas. Actually, Las Mozas consist of three consecutives falls that legend has it were formed when three young maidens disobeyed their father and went swimming there on Good Friday and were forever petrified there.

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painting by Jorge Bennett www.locationpanama.com

As a matter of fact, the floor of the Valley is still something very close to a lake, for the water table in most of the valley floor is only a few feet below the surface and at the surface, particularly during the rainy season. And yes, it really rains during the rainy seasons, hard and long. The Valley used to be the home of a myriad of water birds of all kinds and you can still see cloud whiteherons fighting their way through the winter blows. Another testament to the soft sedimentary nature of the valley floor is felt during occasional earthquakes, for no matter how small, they are accentuated by the humid mushy nature of the subsurface. My mother built a rammed earth home in El Valle, with an enclosed swimming pool and during the occasional quake the water inside the pool would slosh from side to side; yet people in other places outside of the caldera would not feel the tremor. The jungle in El Valle is something else, for the trees are forged crooked by the strong gusty winds, which give the jungle a weird twisted character. It all holds a beauty of its own and gives the place an unique character; and it’s not just the green but the incredible variety of ambers, reds, yellows, and rust colored leaves, that blended into the greenery, creating a unique contrast. If you happen to be here at the end of the dry season, just before our spring arrives, you will catch the sight of the amazing guyacan trees that shed all their leaves and dress up in an incredible array of brilliant yellows. Also, during this time of the year, the typically green vegetation of the dry season produces a profusion of autumn leave colors that make an incredible contrast with the tropical evergreen trees of the area.

photo by Jorge Bennett

Gaital

Amber glow presages the pall of ending day, and in this hollow of fleeting solitude, there linger in my thoughts times past present, of loved ones gone and still to come. The distant voice of youth begotten, chimes of cares not yet foreseen. In this slumberous crater of earthen fires suffuse in drizzle, our kin have webbed fine strands of life’s tapestry. And though time will bring asunder, we still remain in dreams anew. Joys and sorrow swirl in the winds around us; yet, we must foresee our path beyond, where loves can stay and live anew.

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painting by Jorge Bennett

The market place on Saturdays and Sundays is an interesting place to visit and even now, the commerce there is carried out the same way it was for as far back as I can remember. The natives come down from their mountain villages, bringing their fruit, woodwork, pottery, plants and flowers and much more to trade.

In recent years El Valle has also experienced the development of an interesting variety of hotels and restaurants that cater to a wide variety of tastes, mainly prepared with the abundance of local fresh produce. The skies at night, during the rainy season are washed clean of dust and on a clear night you can see more stars than you ever imagined, as low lying puffs of clouds fly by at great speeds. Then there are the square trees and golden frogs that intrigue so many. The square trees are a kind of tree called “alcarreto” that sometimes grows straight up when it lies protected in a hollow; some of them are completely SQUARE. The golden frogs are not as abundant today as when I was young and there is a growing concern in regards to their protection; but you can still see them at El Nispero, the local privately owned Park.

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I have never met anyone who was not enchanted at the first sight of this unique mountain town nestled inside the caldera of an enormous inactive volcano. There are still many characteristics that let you know about the origins that led to its present configuration, as is the case with La Mesa, a plateau on the other side of El Gaital and its two comrades, Caracoral and Pajita. The mesa is actually still situated inside the perimeter of the original caldera, but was separated from the main floor of the valley by the uprising of the Gaital lava domes. In La Mesa you will find sinkholes.

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painting by Jorge Bennett

El Valle de Anton is definitely a unique place to visit if you come to Panama. Its curious and abrupt mountain scenery will surprise you as you make your way up to the continental divide, between the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea; for Panama is definitely a Caribbean destination, with a Pacific twist to it. In Panama there are also four archipelagos; two in the Pacific and two in the Caribbean. The two in the Pacific have well over 300 islands and hold the three largest islands on the Pacific side of the Americas. The three islands are: Coiba, El Rey, and San José, all three mainly uninhabited up to now. If the day is clear, you will have a view of the archipelago of the Pearls, where the Peregrine Pearl that Elisabeth Taylor owned came from; and where pirates and buccaneers used to roam and harass the Spanish gold trade.

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TUCAN COUNTRY CLUB & RESORT

Tucan Country Club and Resort is located in the former setting of Horoko, an exclusive golf course that served the high ranking North American military during their presence on the Panama Canal Zone.

Horoko Golf Course was acquired in the early 2000’s by a visionary entrepreneur dedicated to urban development. The 18 hole golf course was completely re-designed, while the villas, condominiums and apartments started to be constructed. Nowadays, Tucan Country Club & Resort is a reality with more than 100 families residing in this magnificent gated community adjacent to the Canal. Tucan is the perfect gateway from where to explore and discover Panama. Its strategic location in the Canal Zone development area allows you to access downtown Panama City in just 10 minutes and it is just 45 minutes away from the Pacific beaches and the Pan-American Road leading to several other provinces. Another great benefit of its location is that it is neighboring the biggest commercial, logistics and industrial development in Central America, Panama Pacifico.

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If looking for either a permanent residence or a temporary rental, this 180 acre gated residential community offers a wide variety of Mediterranean style properties catering to your personal preferences. Choose from different designs and sizes of villas, glamorous townhouse style condominiums and apartment buildings, ready to live in. The lush tropical forest that surrounds the development is part of the nation’s natural reserve, and breathtaking views of the Panama Canal and Panama City skyline are just amazing. Tucan Country Club & Resort has 24 hour security, a restaurant serving Pan-American cuisine, a swimming pool, a pro shop, a gym and a soon to open spa. Units include luxury Italian finishes in granite, stainless steel kitchen and laundry appliances. Property management services available.

Tucan Country Club and Resort is the perfect choice for those seeking a great quality of life, while enjoying the wonders of a cosmopolitan lifestyle - you can have it all! For more information contact: Sales Panama: + (507)211-7777 info@tucancountryclub.com www.tucanCountryClub.com Calle Bruja Cocoli, Arraijan, Republic of Panama

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The Chiriqui Highlands

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THE PATH BETWEEN THE VOLCANO AND THE VALLEY 32

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The Chiriquí highlands offer a wide variety of activities, either for those who just want to go sightseeing, enjoy a meal and sample the local produce, or those who want to participate in some of the exciting outdoor activities. If you visit Boquete, Volcán, Bambito or Cerro Punta and you really want to experience all the great things Chiriquí has to offer, you can cross the mountains in just 1 hour and ten minutes, on a perfectly new paved road. The path that unites Boquete with Volcán is the ideal gateway to explore and experience both destinations and the drive is very scenic with waterfalls, canyons, lush vegetation and impressive mountain views. This is a great trip, crossing a previously inaccessible area, where you can appreciate a few small towns and native Indians, dressed in their traditional clothing walking along the road. For many years two of the most interesting touristic communities were separated by rugged mountain terrain. Now united, it is a day trip to savor and enjoy!

Let the Chiriquí highlands blow you away and embrace the road!

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What to do in Boquete Dining:

Activities:

Panama 9°80° recommends

You find some great restaurants in Boquete, some of the best in Panama! There are about 40 restaurants that cater to all tastes and budgets. The Rock – Boquete Tel: 720-2516

Il Pianista Tel: 720-2728

The Panamonte Tel: 720-1327

LaPosada Boqueteña Tel: 730-9440

Barú Tel: 720 2714 Machu Pichu Tel: 264 9308

Toco Madera Tel: 730-9000

•Tree Trek Canopy Tour

•Day Spa

•4 x 4 Mountain safari

•4 wheel adventure tour

•Horseback riding

•Mountain Biking

•Bird watching

•Paintball

•Hiking

•Golf

•Visit to thermal springs

•Mini golf

•Coffee tour

•Panoramic tours

•River Rafting

•Tennis

•Rock climbing

•Racquetball

Lodging: The Riverside Inn Tel: 720-1076 34

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Panama 9°80° recommends:

The Panamonte Inn & Spa Tel: 720-1327

Valle Escondido Tel: 720-2454

Hotel Ladera Tel: 730-9000

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How to get to Boquete from Volcan (*SB= since the beginning)

From the sign that reads “regrese pronto” meaning “come back soon”, drive 9.2 KM until you reach a sign that says Cuesta de Piedra, then turn left. About 3km (12.2 SB) from the last turn you will find a charming Flea market, where you can make a quick stop and find beverages, popsicles and all sort of curiosities. After the flea market follow the curve to your left. After around 3.3km (12.5 SB), to your right, you will find a viewpoint where you can take panoramic pictures of the canyon and plateau. 4.2km (13.4 SB) later, there is a sign that reads Santa Rita - Paraiso - Cordillera, turn right to Santa Rita. 9.6km (23.1 SB) The next sign reads Santa Rita - Boquerón, turn left to Santa Rita 2.1km (25.4 SB) The sign says Santa Rita – Potrerillo, turn right to Potrerillo. 6.4 km (31.9 SB) You will drive into a T crossroad with no sign, turn right and continue about 8.5km (40.6 SB) where you will find a V split, keep your right. On your left is a police station and a gas station, turn right. After 9.2km (50 SB) you reach a Terpel Gas station on your left. There you turn left and it will take another 21.1 (71.2 SB) until you reach Boquete and a sign that reads “Bienvenido” meaning “Welcome”; you are now in Boquete, the town of coffee and flowers.

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What to do in Volcán, Bambito and Cerro Punta Dining:

Activities:

Panama 9°80° recommends: Cerro Brujo Tel: 6669-9196

•Visit to Dracula Orchid farm

Panama 9°80° recommends:

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Hotel Bambito Tel: 771-4265

•Panoramic Tours •Coffee tour

•Trout fishing

•Horseback riding

•Rock Climbing

•Visit to an archeological site “Sitio Barriles”, and it’s petroglyphs

•Buying fresh strawberries

•Bird watching

Lodging: Los Quetzales Cabins Tel: 771-2291

•Hiking Baru Volcano National Park

•Visit to thermal springs •Visit to Parque de la Amistad

•Day Spa

How to get to Volcán Bambito and Cerro Punta from Boquete (*SB= since the beginning)

Starting at the sign that reads “Bienvenido” meaning “Welcome”, beside Kotowa Coffee at the viewpoint, drive 21 km to Potrerillos where you will find an inverse V at your right, where the Terpel gas station is located, turn right at the gas station. 9.2km later (30.2 SB) you will see a sign that reads Potrerillos abajo, turn left at the V intersection, where a police station is. 8.8km (39.1 SB) after the last sign, you will find another sign that says Palmira, turn left and keep on the asphalt road, always following the yellow road markings. After 6.5km (45.7 SB) you will reach a sign that says Valley of The Moon, turn left. 2.2km (47.9 SB) after the last turn, you will find a sign that reads Cuesta de Piedra - Boqueron, turn right to Cuesta de Piedra. At 9.6km (57.6 SB) the sign says Cuesta de Piedra – Cordillera, turn left to Cuesta de Piedra. 8 KM (58.5 SB) later you will find a viewpoint to your left, where you can stop and take panoramic pictures of the canyon and plateau. 1.2km (58.8 SB) into your drive you will find a sign that says Ramal – Cuesta de Piedra, turn right at a pronounced curve. As soon as you turn, you will see a charming flea market where you can make a quick stop and find beverages, popsicles and all sort of curiosities. Keep going until you reach 3.0km (61.9 SB) until you find a sign says Volcan, turn to your right and just keep going another 9.2km (71.1SB) until you reach the sign that reads “Bienvenido” meaning “Welcome”, and you have arrived in Volcan, Panama’s fruit and vegetable “basket”.

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photo by Stavros Tsokonas

SAILING IN

BOCAS DEL TORO By Karina Sanin

Bocas del Toro is an archipelago located in the Caribbean Sea in northwest Panama. The archipelago is formed by many islands, cays and islets. The main island is Isla Colón which is where our journey began. Other key sites are Cayos Zapatilla, Isla Bastimentos, Isla Carenero, Isla Cayo Agua, Isla Cristobal, Isla Popa and Isla Solarte. There are many ways to explore Bocas but probably the most exciting is by sailing through the archipelago. Nativa Tours (San Blas Sailing) offers different charter options depending on your needs and wants. We went on a 3 day adventure by sea on a 47 ft catamaran owned by Bernard and France Marcheix. Bernard and France have been together for over 30 years and used to live in France. Bernard was a farmer and France was a nurse in the region of Bordeaux. They decided to leave France and embark on a life of adventure at sea which led them to Martinique, Costa Rica and finally Panama where they have set ground on Isla San Cristobal in Bocas del Toro. Both local airlines offer daily flights from Panama City and different time options. You can also fly from David or if you choose to go by car you can drive to Almirante and then take a ferry to Isla Colón. The drive is about 2 1/2 to 3 hours from David and about 7 hours from Panamá City.

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photo by Stavros Tsokonas

Day 1

We boarded our plane at 6:20 a.m. and landed in Bocas at 7:20. The flight was pleasant and we were offered beverages and a snack. We were greeted in the airport by Bernard who escorted us to a cab that drove us to Isla Colón’s fire station. The fire station is a very common meeting point on Isla Colón as it has a dock and a bar or “salon”. It is not uncommon to see people having a coffee, drinking a beer and playing dominoes by the dock. We boarded a dinghy for a short ride to what would be our home for the next 3 days, the beautiful Sea Prize Catamaran. The Sea Prize is a very comfortable catamaran fully equipped with 4 double occupancy rooms, each with its own bathroom and tropical decor. It has a kitchen, in-haul and outside sitting areas, a large sun-bathing deck, fishing gear, kayaks and snorkeling gear. We enjoyed a lovely breakfast and started our adventure. We sailed up north in the Bahia Almirante to Boca del Drago. After lunch we took the dinghy to Isla de Los Pájaros (Bird Island) which is a spectacular rock formation home to hundreds of bird species. The water here is emerald green and crystalline and full of life. You can snorkel and dive around the island but there is no dock so you cannot explore the island by foot. That said, you can get close enough to appreciate all the wildlife on the island and the breathtaking views of the rock formations. Our next stop was Starfish Beach which gets its name from the hundreds of starfish that line the white sand beach. This is a great place for relaxing at the beach while sipping a tropical cocktail at the lively beach side bar. The pristine waters make it a fantastic snorkeling site where you can really appreciate tropical fish as well as beautiful deep orange starfish.

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photo by Stavros Tsokonas

Day 2

We woke up to a beautiful day after a peaceful night. Much to our surprise, you can barely feel the catamaran rocking from the cabin which made it easy to sleep comfortably. Breakfast was served on deck and we set sail for Cayo Zapatillas which is known for having the most beautiful beaches in the Archipelago. We sailed through Dolphin Bay and spotted a few dolphins playfully entertaining small boats with tourists. We went through the mangrove across Crawl Straight and onto Cayo Zapatillas. It is not uncommon to see indigenous people rowing in their wooden canoes from island to island. They are very friendly and welcoming. We anchored about one mile from the beach and had lunch before taking the dinghy to explore the beaches.

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Cayo Zapatillas is a national park comprised of two islands. We visited the largest of the two (South Zapatilla) and were able to enjoy nature at its best. The water is turquoise, clear and very warm. The island is surrounded by coral reefs making it a prime destination for snorkeling and diving. Although you cannot walk around the island, you can cut across it to discover equally beautiful beaches on the other side. We went back to the catamaran and watched the sunset as we prepared for dinner in the main cabin. We spent the night between the North Cayo Zapatilla and South Cayo Zapatilla. PANAMA 9째80째

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photos by Stavros Tsokonas

photo by Stavros Tsokonas

Day 3

We set sail after breakfast for our return to Isla Colón. We navigated between Isla Bastimentos and Isla Solarte before anchoring by the Red Frog Beach Rainforest Resort and Marina. We had lunch on deck and then took the dinghy to explore Red Frog Beach. The Marina is home to dozens of sailboats and motorboats and features all the commodities of a modern marina. The resort is still under construction, but already features a zip-line canopy and access to white sand beaches. We drove the dinghy around the marina and returned to the catamaran for our final sail to Isla Colón.

Sailing through the Bocas del Toro archipelago was an incredible experience. The contrast between the crystalline white sand beaches graced by tropical fish, starfish and coral and the mysterious onyx colored waters lined with neon jellyfish made the experience unique, exhilarating and mystifying. Great accommodations, wonderful meals and personal service made our experience unforgettable.

For more information contact: Nativa Tours Melody Chemier De Carney Tel.: + (507) 314 1800 – + (507) 314 1288 Cell: + (507) 6780-6959 Email: panama@nativatours.com www.nativatours.com PANAMA 9°80°

PEDASI

We often take road trips exploring Panama and find ourselves returning to a place we love to visit.

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We often take road trips exploring Panama and find ourselves returning to a place we love to visit. The road trip to the Azuero is indeed one to Paradise. Leaving Boquete and the coolness of the mountains, you move through valleys and countless cattle farms, then pineapple and rice fields, as you parallel the Pacific Coast line. Along the way fish mongers show their daily catch where they often hang red snapper on a string in a tree that is swaying back and forth, beckoning you to stop and buy some. Maybe on the way back guys, we are off to Azuero. Panama lies at the crossroads of the Western Hemisphere, where North and South America meet and the Caribbean almost reaches the Pacific Ocean, connected by the Panama Canal. In the middle of the country is a peninsula that faces south, jutting into the Pacific like a green wedge and caressed by the Trade Winds. This is a mountainous region with many cattle farms and small towns dotting the coast and villages in the interior. This is Azuero. Azuero is the most Hispanic region of Panama. This heritage is quite noticeable in the behavior of its people, Indians and AfroPanamanians, as well as in the Hispanic segment of the population. Legends, superstitions, dances, music and customs are a living expression of this impressive cultural identity. The people of Azuero are joyous and hard working who know how to conserve their traditional culture and rich heritage.

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photo by peppophotography

After passing through Santiago, we turn off the Pan American highway and immediately see a new four lane road being build and travel south on the peninsula. On our way to Pedasi the landscape changes rapidly. Passing through Chitre, we continue south to Las Tablas. Before we turn off at the Chitre bypass we stop for fresh melons and other delights sold by road side vendors. Hot and freshly cooked sausage hangs above charcoal grills and numerous places offer a local lunch fare for a few dollars. We then pass through green pastures and rivers and the land transforms to a wonderful countryside that tells us we are approaching the home stretch. Ah yes, here is Pedasi our home away from home. We have already been back to Pedasi four times this year, meeting with customers and enjoying this incredible place that is still undiscovered, even by Panamanians. Many new quaint hotels, lodges and Inns offer lodging for every taste and budget. While real estate offers are limited, it is offered at the lowest prices that I have ever seen; if only I had the money. As I like to say, think Costa Rica 20 years ago!

Let’s take a look at a few hotel options.

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photo by peppophotography

Good morning Pedasi - what a place to wake up! The sun is up and the surf turns silver in the early morning light. The tide is coming in and the break will continue to build until it returns to shore, where it thunders in. Our first night on this trip was at Villa Romana and what a place it was. Kind of like Tuscany, but here in the tropical oceanfront of Panama, just outside Pedasi. Each of the villas is perched about a hundred feet above the rocky shore below and enjoys views over the Pacific Ocean.

photo by peppophotography

Our little villa was very comfortable and we had one of the most soothing night’s sleep listening to the sounds of the surf breaking below us. You can still buy oceanfront property in this market from 40 cents per square foot for larger parcels to $10 per square foot for an ocean view lot in a gated community with quality infrastructure. This is of course today, not 2 years from now. Local craftsmen have learned to use native wood, stone and old world techniques of construction here in Pedasi from the developers such as designer Gilles SaintGilles at his project Azueros. Some of the estate homes in the area are incredible, but can still be built for under $100 per square foot.

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photo by Jean Pierre Brion

With a canvas like Pedasi, creating your dream home is easy. I have met architects and builders, who can insure that no detail is left out and I would feel comfortable building here. Next we stayed for several nights at a multimillion dollar villa in the development called Azueros, which is one of Panama’s premier developments and the area is home to some of the wealthiest families, including a billionaire who has a home around the corner. After tossing around those kinds of numbers, let me tell you that the rate is only $1,400 per night for the entire villa and it sleeps five couples in complete luxury. Welcome to Villa Esplenderosa!. Our villa was very comfortable and we had one of the most soothing night’s sleep listening to the sounds of the surf breaking below us. The stars were so thick at night that the Milky Way was like a banner across the sky! We had a pool, full gym, sauna, steam, Turkish bath, media room, 5 bedrooms and a roof top bohio, bar and grill. It was birthday time for two of the girls so we did plenty of partying! Eat, drink and be merry. The Azueros development was a project that was designed by an European architect from France, Gilles Saint-Gilles, who brought in craftsmen to train the local people. They learned to use native wood, stone and old world techniques of construction here in Pedasi at his project Azueros. It rivals anything else in the world. This area is like the Riviera of Panama.

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A short drive from Pedasi is Venao beach, a very bohemian place, similar to Playa del Carmen in Mexico before the market exploded. Unlike Mexico, Panama does not have hurricanes! Venao has big time vibe. The area is magical and one can go horseback riding on the beach, fish, snorkel, visit a local beach bar and restaurant, eat the local specialty fresh called red snapper, or yellow fin tuna, have a cocktail and watch the sunset. For the more adventurous, try surfing in the beginners to medium rated surf, or just sit back with a mojito and watch people carve the waves. A breeze comes in off the Pacific Ocean and is a welcome reprieve from the hot, tropical sun in the clear skies above Pedasi, Panama. Residents and tourists visiting Pedasi relax to the soothing sound of nearby Pacific waves that greet the sandy beaches and rocky shores. The hustle and bustle of city life is unknown in these peaceful Panamanian hinterlands. One of the outposts of the Azuero Peninsula, small and quiet Pedasi, Panama seems to exist in another time and place.

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Back in Pedasi town, we stayed with our friend Ovidio Diaz, who with his wife runs Casa de Campo, a beautiful boutique bed and breakfast. Casa de Campo is an extension of their main villa and truly epitomizes the saying “mi casa es su casa”, or my house is your house. Lush gardens invite you to enter. Just around the corner is the pool and poolside bar. Every Friday Ovidio offers a happy hour with live music and appetizers for hotel guests. What a great way to start your weekend adventure. The lot is huge and the house has plenty of corners and nooks to relax in and read a book, hook up to free wifi, or just chill. There are several nearby residential projects in Pedasi that are very nice. Two years ago, when I first visited Azuero, all of this was on paper and roads were being built. Now the infrastructure has been completed and there are a couple of dozen homes going up this year. Most of the first phases are sold out and we looked at the second phase lots, many of which have already been sold. That is not bad for the market conditions that existed between 2008 and 2010. Pedasi has reached the tipping point and it is definitely on its way to become one of Panama’s key resort destinations.

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You can find most of your necessities in Pedasi, including medical care and banking services. A short one hour drive and you can get to Las Tablas, a town where you will find just about anything else you need. Pedasi has a regional airport and is less than an hour’s flight from Panama City and a four and a half hour drive by car.

Pedasi is a small fishing village and people who come here like it that way! Come see for yourself what makes Pedasi special. “There is a slowness to Pedasi; a rhythm in the way people live day to day. It’s inevitable that in a few days you will slow down as well. Your hurry will turn into a cold beer (for 50 cents), waiting for the local taxi to pick you up and take you to visit Isla Iguana, an island that everybody talks about with good reason, it’s pristine waters, colorful coral reefs and abundance of wildlife. When you get to the beach, the fisherman that has been waiting for you doesn’t question why you are late. There is no need for an explanation: everybody is late. He starts the engine and somewhere on the way the hum of the engine becomes hypnotic, the ocean slaps against the side of the boat, a light occasional spray covers you. The water is warm, salty, rich and inviting. The ocean translucent, in a nutshell this is Pedasi.” - Jose Goldner, poet.

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photo by Jean Pierre Brion

Author Tom Brymer tbrymer@brymerpa.com www.panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com Panama Address Valle Escondido 128 Boquete, Chiriqui, Rep. de Panama Panama Phone 507.6810.1074 US Address 10719 SW 104th Street Miami, Florida 33176 US Phone 305-448-1003 US Fax 305-448-9009

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The quest for Tapas in Panama 58

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There are different tales of how the tradition of tapas started in Spain; some say that it is the result of a Royal decree by King Alfonso X, known as “the wise”. The story tells that King Alfonso X recovered from an illness by drinking wine with small dishes between meals. Once recovered, he ordered that all taverns would not be allowed to serve wine, unless it was accompanied by a small snack or tapa.

The word tapa is derived from the Spanish word tapar that means lid or to cover. Back in medieval times, taverns would cover a glass of wine with a slice of chorizo, ham, cheese or bread to prevent insects from falling into one´s drink. Nowadays, the concept of tapas entails an evening focused around conversation, wine, caña (small glass of beer) and snacks and less attention to eating an entire meal. Since the 1500’s the Spanish presence and heritage have been a part of the essence of Panama, however finding real tapas in Panama has been a challenge, probably due to geographic limitations, as all the ingredients are cured, produced and harvested in different regions of Spain. There are places that may indicate that they serve tapas, but really just a few serve the real thing. Due to this challenge, we decided to include international dishes served “tapas style” that were worth mentioning.

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Tasca Bar Angel: Originally from Valladolid, Spain, Chef Angel Martínez Martínez opened Restaurante Angel in 1992. Later on, in September 2001, he opened Tasca Bar Angel, where he serves a variety of traditional tapas in a casual atmosphere.

The wine selection is extensive, and if you would like to have a quieter evening you can go to Restaurante Angel at the back, where you can also order tapas from the tasca.

We tried the Spanish omelet, one of those must order items during a tapas night, followed by potatoes “a la brava” diced fried potatoes covered in a bell pepper garlic mayonnaise.

Location: Ave. Alberto Navarro Tel: +(507) 263-6868

One of the most popular dishes at La Taberna de Angel is the Galician octopus, although it may seem to be a simple preparation of boiled octopus, olive oil, coarse salt and paprika, the preparation requires technique and skills so the final result is as tender and flavorful as possible.

Can Masoliver

We also ordered the grilled octopus cooked to perfection with a hint of garlic; this was by far the best thing I ate in the whole tapas quest. A second cousin to the octopus is the calamari, also very popular on a tapas menu and in this case lightly battered with a very nice tartar sauce for dipping. There were so many choices of sausages that we decided to order a sausage platter with a selection of succulent blood pudding, chorizo and butifarra, and based on pure curiosity we also ordered the cider sausage that came served in a cute ceramic pot and it was delicious. Tasca Bar Angel offers a fair list of tapas including Iberian ham, Serrano ham, cured pork loin, Manchego cheese, cured and semi-cured cheese, grouper croquets and mussels. 60

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Hours: Monday to Saturday from 5:00 p.m. Valet Parking Live music on Fridays

Throughout 6 years of doing food reviews we have followed Chef Pedro from Café Balear to Can Masoliver for one simple reason, he is good! Even though there is a formal dining room, we always prefer to go to the bar, where it is more casual and there is a wine cellar and an outdoor patio terrace. Here Chef Masoliver offers a weekly menu presented on a blackboard that they bring to your table when you are seated. As there were so many choices, we decided that we wanted to be surprised by the chef, so he started to send out dishes for us to try. The first arrival was a Russian lobster salad served inside the lobster shell; it was tender delicious and a great way to start our lunch.

Shortly after our first dish arrived, came the Manchego cheese stuffed calamari, wonderfully light and tasty. Served over a tomato slice and potato chips, the grouper mouse sprinkled with pesto was beyond expectations. The chickpea and seafood soup was very soothing and pleasant, setting the mood for the rest of our culinary journey.

We dipped Camembert cheese in an addictive sweet tomato compote, and awakened our taste buds with a traditional grilled octopus, served with tomato, onions and ginger. We finished our meal with a very delicate roasted eggplant and tomato salad, served with shaved Manchego cheese and fresh lettuce, lightly seasoned. Location: G Street, El Cangrejo Tel: + (507) 269-2415

Hours: Monday to Saturday from 12:00 p.m. to 12:00 a.m.

La Fragata

La Fragata is one of those places that has been out there for more than 2 decades because they have been consistently serving good food. In our case, it was one of the first hangouts where we discovered the world of tapas and enjoyed their great Sangria. The frigates or fragatas served as Spanish warships between the 15th and 17th century, so the atmosphere of the restaurant

was inspired overall by a nautical theme. Other details like bullfightersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; posters honor the Spanish heritage. The moment we arrived, we were greeted by the new owners, very pleasant and friendly Venezuelans, who came to Panama to build a dream. Chef Alfonso Curzlo, told me that they have kept the same recipes, as well as the kitchen staff that has been here for almost 25 years, but that also they have contributed with fresh new ideas and a little bit of a well deserved image upgrade. We started with garlic calamari rings, perfectly executed, and delicately seasoned, followed by an excellent Spanish omelet. The fish croquets served with a nice tartar sauce were to die for. The Galician octopus was delicious and as tender as could be.

We ordered an appetizing sausage platter with chistorras, a type of fast-cured sausage from the Basque country and Navarre. They are made of minced pork or a mixture of minced pork and beef encased in lamb tripe, flavored with garlic, salt and paprika which gives it a bright red color; we also tried the Botifarra, one of the most important dishes in the Catalan cuisine, which is sometimes prepared with pork spices and truffles, and the Spanish chorizo that is made from coarsely chopped pork, wine and smoked peppers.

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Stepping a little bit out of bounds, we ordered langoustines served in a rich brandy sauce, just to fulfill our curious taste buds. It was refreshing to visit La Fragata and get what we expected of a Spanish restaurant, and as good as the food, was the cordial attention of the service staff and owners. Location: Ave. Samuel Lewis Tel: +(507) 269-2827

Hours: Monday to Saturday from 12:00 p.m. to 12:00 a.m.

Not quite Spanish tapas but tapas style and worth mentioning: Ego y Narciso

This is a very special restaurant for Panama 9°80° since our offices were once located in Casco Antiguo and we used to visit this place for all occasions and we still find any excuse to visit. Located at Plaza Bolivar, the restaurant offers two settings, a trendy indoor area and our favorite outdoor plaza sitting area. We can recite the menu blindfolded and on this occasion we decided to go for some of the favorite items. The assorted ceviche platter comes with a few shot glasses of ceviche juice, or “leche de tigre”, known in Latin American countries to have aphrodisiac effects, and 4 servings of fresh ceviche, some garnished with red onions, some garnished with choclo or corn; this is one of those dishes that burst with flavors. For people seeking a delicate subtle taste experience, the crostini served with goat cheese, basil, prosciutto and figs is an interesting and delightful experience. The octopus carpaccio with red and green peppercorns is arguably one of the best octopus preparations in the whole country. Thinking about those who are not seafood inclined, the variety of meat and poultry skewers are sure to delight you. Now prepare to be indulged, the pork rind covered in marinated onions, and served over a bed of camote, is a symphony of flavors, even the dullest taste buds will awaken in awe! The food and the setting are both worth the drive. Location: Plaza Bolivar and 3rd street Casco Antiguo Tel: +(507) 262-2045

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Hours: Monday to Friday: From 12:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. From 6:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. Saturday: From 6:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. Sunday: From 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Tapas outside Panama City Panamonte - Boquete

Recently, The Panamonte Inn & Spa included a tapas menu in its bar that is worth mentioning and exploring. After visiting a handful of tapas restaurants in Panama City, The Panamonte tapas menu was a pleasant surprise, not only in the delightful assortment of flavors, but also the exquisite presentation. We started with a sampler platter consisting of olives marinated in orange, thyme, sherry, lemon zest and olive oil, abundant in flavor and aroma, a dish of roasted fresh mushrooms, lightly seasoned in rosemary and olive oil, a serving of roasted eggplant and peppers Catalonian style and a tomato toast with Serrano ham and Manchego cheese, all absolutely delicious.

The next platter consisted of Spanish omelet dices, comforting Asturian bean and sausage stew, Serrano ham and chicken croquette, octopus braised in olive oil, pimento and potatoes, and a bit of gazpacho to finish on the right note. Our visit to Panamonte sure raised the stakes in this quest. Location: Boquete, Chiriquí

Hours: Every day From 12:00 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. From 6:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.

The Bocas Wine Bar Our first visit to The Bocas Wine Bar was a great surprise. Standing on the balcony catching the fresh ocean breeze and delighting in the spectacular views of the Caribbean sea and the lively street below, what a great place to catch the sunset. The Bocas wine bar has two bars, one for special wine tastings and the other in a spacious living room setting with upholstered furniture, soft lighting and colorful art and music. The baked brie with silvered almonds stands out, and it is great to find such delicacies in Bocas. We ordered an assorted cheese plate with fruit and olives, a life saver, onions and mushrooms, a delicious spicy meatball with Zamora glaze, a smoked salmon tapenade, ham and sausage and we finished with sun dried tomato tapenade. Everything was delicious. The Bocas Wine Bar has a great variety of wines from all regions to pair with your favorite tapas. A place that you must visit when in Bocas del Toro. Location: Isla Colon, Bocas del Toro In front of Bocas Marine Tours on main street Tel: +(507) 6627-5906

Hours: Monday to Saturday from 5:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Note: There are many other “tapa places” that are worth mentioning and we recommend you check the next editions for more great restaurant picks

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NEWS The Rock presents:

become extremely successful, reaching a large amount of followers. The setting is simple and the idea is to have fun, learn about music, and to get rid of daily stress.

Directed by musician Alfredo Hidrovo, a Berklee College of Music graduate, professional musician and music school teacher, who will bring an entertaining and interactive percussion event to Boquete, where spectators will learn the basics about rhythm and music, while sitting outdoors next to The Rock’s restaurant terrace.

Half Moon drum night organizers will provide the first 100 attendees with plastic buckets and artisanal wooden drumsticks. Those who have their own percussion instruments are encouraged to bring them and to join Alfredo in this extraordinary event.

Half moon drum night Boquete will be the setting of the family event series of the season, Half moon drum night.

The drum nights started in Panama a year ago and they have Event calendar: 2011 December 23rd

This is a perfect occasion to spend quality time with your friends and family, of all ages, and to kick back and relax. 2012 January, Saturday 14 February, Saturday 11 Friday, March 17th Saturday, April 14

For more information call: The Rock restaurant at +(507) 720-2516 or write to reservations@therockboquete.com http://halfmoondrumboquete.wordpress.com/

El Valle Volcano paintings by Jorge Bennett Jorge Bennett, a Panamanian multifaceted artist, studied music composition at the University of North Carolina School of Arts. He has written many compositions for orchestra, chamber music, piano and classical guitar. Besides composing music, he expresses himself through writing poetry and novels and painting scenes from our countryside and daily life. Jorge is the son of John Bennett, the author of the El Valle Volcano article. To learn more about Jorge Bennett visit: www.jorgebennett.com

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