Panama 980 Edition 28 by Irma Marengo 980

Tántalo

Featured Hotel

RANDOMLY GOOD PART 4 POSTCARDS FROM PEDASI

EDITION 28

PANAMA 9°80°

PANAMA 9째80째

2836 25 26 36 43

TÁNTALO HOTEL PACIFIC BEACHES OF PANAMA FOOD FINDS PANAMA

NAPOLI TOP SELLING DISHES RANDOMLY GOOD PART 4 POSTCARDS FROM PEDASI CHIRIQUI

26 54 8

10 16 24

PANAMA 9°80° www.locationpanama.com

contents 55 58 64

PRIDE OF PANAMA BOCAS DEL TORO JOURNAL OF A FREQUENT TRAVELER THE PANAMANIAN FONDA

GENERAL MANAGER

Irma Marengo

GRAPHIC DESIGN

Falina Pérez de Valverde SALES DIRECTOR

Daniel Susunaga WRITERS

Corrin Skubin Irma Marengo COVER PHOTO

Stuart Hooper PHOTOGRAPHY

panama’s lifestyle & travel magazine The name 9°80° is derived from the country’s location on the world map – 9 degrees north of the equator, 80 degrees west of the prime meridian.

Irma Marengo Laura Grier Stuart Hooper PEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY CONTACT INFORMATION

Phone: (507)394-3452 info@panama980.com www.locationpanama.com

Panama 9°80° es publicada por Avenue A. Publications, Inc. Las opiniones y recomendaciones de los autores y artistas que aparecen en Panama 9°80° no necesariamente reflejan las opiniones de la empresa. Panama 9°80° no asume responsabilidad por los productos o servicios que se anuncian en la revista, ni por errores de contenido impreso. No está permitido reproducir, total o parcialmente en contenido de esta publicación sin previo permiso escrito de Avenue A. Publications, Inc. © 2013 Todos los derechos reservados. RUC: 1119547-1-564065 D.V. 92 Impreso por Panamericana Formas e Impresos, S.A. quién solo actúa como impresor. Impreso en Colombia

PANAMA 9°80°

photo by Laura Grier

PANAMA 9째80째

TÁNTALO

Kitchen - Hotel – Roofbar The moment you step into Tántalo, you know that the concept is beyond just a hotel, you can feel it and you can see it. The brain behind it all is Matthew Blesso, an entrepreneur, a philanthropist, and a great supporter of artistic expression. Blesso believes in those opportunities overlooked by others, creativeness, innovation and attention to detail. “The Blesso style can best be defined as modern sustainable urbanism and is characterized by clean lines, organic forms, and spatial and natural harmony”.

PANAMA 9°80° www.locationpanama.com

The lobby:

The lobby is vibrant, alive and offers two atmospheres, the restaurant setting, tapas style with tall tables and chairs filled with people from all over the world enjoying food and drinks, and a lounge area with unique and clever vintage suitcase tables, setting the perfect mood to hang out with friends and sink into a playful visual adventure. An impressive green wall home to 980 plants brings earth elements to the room, funky light bulbs hang from the ceiling like a spider web, pop art is spread around the walls in paintings and art installations, a collection of textures takes you on a cultural journey, swanky music plays in the background and beautiful antique floor tiles pull the room together.

The Rooms:

It is, without a doubt, not your typical hotel room experience! Each room was created with the best amenities to make your stay a comfortable and pampered one. Thinking outside the box, each room was assigned to a different local artist, a canvas to best express themselves and to create a cool, trendy and functional environment resulting in a contrast between art, modern furnishings, rustic vintage floors and out of the ordinary tables. The ambience of the different rooms is created using styles such as, modern, suggestive, bright and colorful evoking the local popular street art combined with modern furnishings, spacious and comfortable. Worth mentioning are the beds… all in all a fun, joyful, visual and sensorial experience.

photo by Stuart Hooper

PANAMA 9°80° www.locationpanama.com

photo by Stuart Hooper

Encima, the Roofbar:

Breathtaking, a pleasant surprise! By all means “the place” to be in Panama. The best way to end your day or to start your night is found at Encima, a beautiful casual setting with a 360° view of Panama, including the old city “Casco Antiguo”, modern Panama City, Cerro Ancón and The Causeway. Encima is the perfect place to relax, listen to nice music and to enjoy one of the house signature drinks. Tántalo Kitchen – Hotel – Roofbar is conveniently located in the heart of Casco Antiguo, walking distance from the Presidential Palace, historic cathedrals and parks, museums, shops and a wide variety of nightclubs and restaurants to cater all tastes and moods.

A place to dream, dine and play!

PANAMA 9°80° www.locationpanama.com

Amenities: Laundry & dry cleaning services

Fully equipped mini bar

Cell phone rental

Encima Rooftop Bar & Lounge

Free wireless Internet Concierge services Room service Satellite TV Large screen TV Free bicycle rentals Shower amenities Contact information: Telephone: (507) 262-4030 sleep@tantalohotel.com www.tantalohotel.com photo by Stuart Hooper

PANAMA 9째80째 www.locationpanama.com

Restaurant

Complimentary valet parking 24 hour medical services Free yoga classes for guests only

PANAMA 9째80째

PANAMA 9째80째 www.locationpanama.com

PACIFIC BEACHES OF PANAMA

By Corrin Skubin

By now it’s old news that Panama is one of the top 5 retirement destinations in the world. Most folks already know that The NY Times Newspaper rated Panama as the #1 place to visit in 2012, Yahoo called Panama a top country worldwide for investment and our booming economy positioned us as the #1 country in Central America for economic growth last year. Panama’s visitors and residents alike have known for years that the country has something for everyone: from the variety of nightlife, shopping and dining choices in Panama City, to the quiet bird-filled skies of mountain towns such as Chica, El Valle, Boquete or Cerro Punta, or an escape to the secluded, unspoiled beaches. It’s common knowledge that Panama offers the best of all worlds.

PANAMA 9°80° 17 www.locationpanama.com

So what’s the breaking news today in Panama?

Well, it’s something exciting for those of us who live and work in Coronado and the beaches. Most foreigners don’t know - and many Panamanians are only now coming to realize - that the Pacific Coast of Panama is now seeing tremendous growth and improvements in infrastructure. Big plans are underway for even more growth and development in the very near future.

PANAMA 9°80°

If you had visited the Pacific Coast near Panama City (beaches like Coronado, Punta Barco, San Carlos or Santa Clara) just a short time ago, you would have experienced a very different beach area than you would today. I moved to El Palmar in San Carlos just 5 years ago, when it was a quiet dreamy surf beach 7 days a week. The only grocery option at the time, apart from small tiendas with nothing more than the basics, was the El Rey plaza in Coronado. Back then, the plaza only housed two banks and a Pio Pio. Visit the Pacific beaches and Coronado now, and you will find 3 shopping plazas with several malls either under construction or on the verge of completion. The options are convenient and nearly endless. No longer do I have to drive to Panama City for computer paper or good veggies. Now, not only are these “conveniences” offered, but we’re offered more than one location to purchase them!

PANAMA 9°80°

Modern city conveniences have been imported to our little piece of paradise, and we love it! Panamanians and foreigners who have settled here in recent years have brought fun, nightlife, live music, a state-of-theart health center, six banks, a variety of restaurants, and a lot of shopping. The influx of young families to the area has brought about the opening of three international schools, where students aren’t just from Panama or North America anymore, but from all over the world. With diversity has come positive change for the beach area, while still retaining our little piece of paradise. Whether local or foreigner, we are all here because we love the sun, sand, and surf, but also because we love the casual atmosphere where we can grab a drink or bite to eat with friends. Now, those of us who have been here for a while have some great choices for entertainment that were never available before, and there is always something to do at the beaches! Of course, with more folks visiting all the time, house parties abound and making friends is easy. If you don’t know anyone, the best place to find out what’s going on is the PlayaCommunity.com website which will hook you up with upcoming live music, DJ music bars and happy hour specials. 20

PANAMA 9°80° www.locationpanama.com

Check out one of the many restaurants in Coronado and find live music, food specials and even theatre shows. Swing by El Palmar for its great beachfront restaurants and nighttime feet-in-the-sand beach bar, or head up the road to El Valle just a few kilometers and reach a restaurant that not only offers great food and cold drinks, but salsa classes! While in El Valle, catch an early morning breakfast before perusing the fresh produce at the Fruit and Veggie Market in the center of town. Relax in the thermal baths for some face mud (just $2.50!!!) and grab some yummy sweets at the local bakery. Be back at your beach home by early afternoon just in time for happy hour. If nightlife isn’t your thing, then there’s always surfing, boogie boarding, stand up paddle boarding, tennis, golf, swimming, yoga, or kite surfing. New hotels are springing up in the city with recognizable names such as the Marriott, Hard Rock, and RIU, and a new international airport is scheduled to open here at the beaches this year. With all this growth, some of Panama’s biggest developers have already staked their claims, and more are following suit.

Today, options abound: Beach living projects offer everything from swanky condos, rustic style villas, chic and modern single family homes, beach style townhouses, and enormous residences, to amenities such as high end restaurants, spas, golf courses, tennis courts, equestrian clubs, marinas, beach clubs and casinos. Every luxury and convenience can be yours; in Coronado and the beaches there is something for everyone! Find out why more than ever, people choose our little slice of paradise. Whether you’re looking for a vacation property or a retirement home, TRY PANAMA REAL ESTATE will help make your Panama property purchase convenient and affordable. We’re a bilingüal, full-service agency with years of experience in this particular market, and an in-house legal team to hold your hand every step of the way. Contact us at www.trypanama.com or phone here in Panama at: (507) 345-4375

PANAMA 9°80°

Restaurants in the area: Luna Rosa (Italian) Location: Coronado beach Amazing homemade desserts

California Burgers & Beer Location: Coronado beach Voted best burgers in town

Cholo´s (Mexican) Location: Coronado beach Great personalized service and home cooking Mexican-fabulous complimentary chips ’n salsa

Los Camisones (Famous Panamanian Seafood) San Carlos, Km 104 Interamerican road. Famous spot for any and all seafood, paella and tres leches

Las Terrazas (French) Location: Vista Mar Ocean view, great setting and service

Tamarindo (International) Location: JW Marriott - Buenaventura High end, fabulous menu with romantic setting

Romano’s (Italian) Location: San Carlos Yummy brick oven pizza Picasso Bar & Restaurante (Italian) Location: Coronado beach Pizza and happy hours Rincon del Chef (Panamanian) Location: Coronado beach Traditional typical dishes with a twist Cafe Coronado Location: Coronado beach Best coffee in town and the only quiche in the area… known for their meats Orale (Mexican) Location: Coronado beach Great for a b-day party or get together, wide selection of margaritas

PANAMA 9°80° www.locationpanama.com

El Paraiso: Panamanian Location: On the way to El Valle Great place to hang out and meet up with friends, salsa classes weekly Loco’s Bar and Grill (BBQ, Grill) Location: Gorgona beach Great variety of dishes in a comfortable setting, great place for a drink Bay View Hotel Location: El Palmar Oceanfront restaurant, best almond corvina (sea bass) Manglar Lodge Restaurant Location: El Palmar Cozy natural setting with great coffee and fresh fish dishes

PANAMA 9째80째

FOOD FINDS

PANAMA Gosht Tikki Masala Justo Arosemena Avenue between 44th & 45th Street, Bella Vista Tel: (507) 225-0106

Lebanese wings Habibis Uruguay and 48th Street, Bella Vista Tel: (507) 264-3647

Shawarma mix

Suspiro (sigh) sold all over the country

La Parada de La Shawarma The corner of Calle 50 and Via Brasil Tel: (507) 392-6782

Mafá (mah – fah) Sold in any Chinese convenience store in Panama

Salao (sah-lah-oh) Sold in any Chinese convenience store in Panama

Bagel – Everything + Lox New York Bagel El Cangrejo and Via Argentina, Einstein Plaza Tel: (507) 390-6050

Cinnamon-sugar pretzel Hansel & Pretzel Multicentro Mall Food Court Tel: (507) 6159-7565

Imported Candy GdeP 70th Street, San Francisco Tel: (507) 270-2444 24

PANAMA 9°80°

ALL TIME TOP SELLING DISHES AT NAPOLI RISTORANTE & PIZZERIA

For over 26 years Napoli has been the preferred family restaurant of Panamanians and expats, serving a wide variety of delicious Italian dishes. Panama 9°80° reveals the people’s favorites of all time.

Parmesan filet

Napolitan clams

Tomato and mozzarella bread

Eggplant vinaigrette

Napoli pizza

House flan custard Obarrio, 57th Street – Tel: (507) 263-8800

PANAMA 9°80°

photo by PEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY

RANDOMLY GOOD PANAMA 9째80째

part 4

SALSIPUEDES: The spoon behind the culinary adventure of Salsipuedes restaurant at The Bristol Hotel is Chef Cuquita Arias de Calvo, one of Panama’s most respected chefs and a trendsetter in the new Panamanian culinary movement. Chef Cuquita eloquently tells us that when they decided to refurbish The Bristol hotel while brainstorming, they asked themselves, what does The Bristol Hotel have that no other hotel has in Panama? And that was the Panamanian hospitality which is what they wanted to transmit through the restaurant and what better name than something that represents the strength of the Panamanian, the joy of the Panamanian people and the flavors and colors of Panama. At the same time, they wanted to do something fun, they wanted to change the formal concept of the restaurant. After a lot of thinking and even some focus groups, one night at 3:00 a.m., the name Salsipuedes popped. Chef Cuquita says that 3:00 a.m. is her creative hour, when she writes her e-mails, and gives birth to ideas! Salsipuedes is the name of a popular street, “Calle 13A Este” located in the neighborhood of San Felipe, near Avenue B and Chinatown. The first references to Salsipuedes date back to the XVII century, its name implied that it was a dangerous street, “Sal si puedes” meaning get out if you can. A few centuries later, the same street lost its bad stigma and became the bustling home of multiple street merchants selling all kinds of bargains including Pollera (the national female dress) accessories. Almost every Panamanian from all social statuses has at some point been to or driven by Salsipuedes.

PANAMA 9°80°

So the thing was how best to present that name to a very formal and traditional board of directors? Well, Chef Cuquita faced the board by saying “I have the best name in the world, you are going to be swept away when you hear it, it’s going to completely change the concept of the restaurant…” she voiced, “Salsipuedes”. Everybody looked at each other and said, “Yes, excellent” After all the lobbying, nobody could say they didn’t like it. “Every time you hear the name, you fall deeper in love with it, you like it more, you find more meaning”. When it came to the décor, they wanted to include a collection of photography that would best describe the feeling of Salsipuedes with a touch of sophisticated nostalgia that only black and white can portray. The cutarras (country people’s shoes), the earrings, vegetables, even witchcraft, all displayed in a way that describes an evolved Panama, an international Panama, an up-to-date Panama. In the restaurant, they used vintage floors like the styles that prevailed in the earlier days of Casco Antiguo (Old Panama City). “Of course the restaurant reflects some of my trademarks, like the color pink, so a few elements that reflect me were included within the formality of the hotel, like the lamps and some furniture.” Our food is fresh, colorful, powerful, with interesting flavors, strong contrasts, innovative, flirty - it is food to fall in love with. We are working with different ingredients and now on Thursdays we serve “Mondongo a la culona” which is a traditional Panamanian dish and a dessert called “Tabaco café y ron” (Tobacco, coffee and rum) - a custard with a Geisha coffee syrup, a touch of rum and caramelized tobacco leaves purchased in Salsipuedes. The idea is to play with all the Salsipuedes elements in a clever way. So basically, we flipped the concept of the previous and more formal restaurant to a casual atmosphere, yet preserving the feeling of the old Panama.

So…what was the menu creation process? Choosing the dishes is always a learning process, a whole process! There are dishes that we have served since I arrived at the hotel 15 years ago like the tamarind sea bass, the baked Alaska, the lentil and chorizo soup, the mushroom Carpaccio and 28

PANAMA 9°80° www.locationpanama.com

we simply could not exclude them from the menu because people come again and again looking for these best sellers. We have included an artisan Tasajo (jerked beef ) roasted over nance (a sweet and strongly scented native fruit tree of the tropical Americas) firewood, lobster medallions served in lukewarm vinaigrette with a pigeon pea ceviche. One of the most popular dishes is the passion tuna topped with a sumptuous passion fruit sauce, a rice “aguachado” (mushy), it is not “guashito” nor risotto, it is “our” risotto. “What can I say, when you go through the process of making a menu…there are many ways to do it, for instance I make a list of the ingredients that I want to include. I wanted to have pigeon peas, yucca, yam… whatever Panama offers - as I always say, Panama tastes like the sea, the mountains and tropical fruits and that is what our menu has. So based on the flavors of Panama, I started to develop the menu and as I said before making the menu is a learning process, you make a dish, you don’t like it, you make it again until you sharpen your knife (figuratively), until you reach how you want it to taste, to look, to smell. I love mixing textures - if I have a cream, I want some crunch, if I have something cold, I want something hot, I love to mix sweet and salty, that is very Panamanian, who eats a Tasajo without a plantain?.

My cuisine is based on traditional ingredients made with original recipes, evolving flavors, the colors are very important to me, the sharpness in flavor. I enter the kitchen and I tell them, “You cowards! You need bravery, put more sugar, put more vinegar, add heat.” I don’t cook for neutral tastes; I cook for defined tastes, brave people, people who enjoy a sweet and sour crocodile, a wasabi mayonnaise, a dish painted in flashing green, I cook for daring people. That is what Salsipuedes is all about!” Contact information: Tel: (507) 264-0000 www.salsipuedespanama.com Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Sunday Brunch: By all means the best brunch in Panama (a taste of home)

“My brunch is a party”

KASSAI Years have passed since have had great good Japanese food in Panama. Kassai to the rescue! We heard about Kassai through foodie friends and that immediately awakened the Japanese food longing in our hearts - in less than 24 hours we were there and ready to try as many dishes as possible. The place is nicely decorated, tall ceilings and a lot of natural light; the atmosphere is relaxed and soothing, perfect to enjoy good food and friends. We started by ordering a watercress salad, nicely presented, followed by a very tender and delicious octopus in olive oil and parsley, not to be missed! The moment we tasted the octopus we were happy to be there. Sushi Moriwase, a dream come true, finally good and fresh sushi the way it is intended to be, a selection of tuna, hamachi, sea bass, salmon, shrimp, white tuna and octopus. After enjoying such pure and fresh treats, we moved on to the classic and very popular spicy tuna roll, tangy and pungent, and the sake salmon, so good, both delicious and well executed. One cannot visit a Japanese restaurant and not order an Ikura, at least not yours truly. It is an explosion of flavors. There is not much left to say, the food speaks for itself, and the service is excellent which is rarely found in the tropics. Contact information: Tel: (507) 391-3650 Location: Costa del Este, Bladex building, ground floor Hours: Monday to Saturday from 12:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. PANAMA 9째80째 www.locationpanama.com

photo by PEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY

Bon Vivant Bon Vivant opened its doors last December to the surprise and delight of all foodies and wine lovers residing in Panama City. Oriol Serra, owner of Bon Vivant, originally from Barcelona, started a wholesale business 4 years ago importing goods to hotels and restaurants in Panama and had the realization that there was a lack of products like this for retail. During our visit, we spoke to Julie Colosso, commercial advisor for Bon Vivant, a food and wine enthusiast with years of experience in the field.

Were you expecting the great reception from the public?

From the beginning we all had a very positive attitude about it, and the fact that Oriol had been here for so many years and already had so many contacts that knew what he was doing was wonderful because since people already knew about it, they were anxiously waiting for the project to be ready. Word of mouth is just fantastic, friends telling friends and social media has been instrumental.

What has been the best feedback of all?

Well you know, we were pleasantly surprised to see how popular the café has been which is great, the store is doing very well also, but people first hear about the café and then find out about the store, and they come back to go shopping. By far the best feedback has been about the cheeses! I’d say there has not been this level of quality cheeses here in Panama before and now Europeans, North Americans and Panamanians who are used to this quality abroad can find it here at home. As far as wines are concerned, we import wines from Spain, Chile and Argentina and we offer a wide selection of other distributors in Panama. The idea being that there are many great wines from different distributors and we want to offer a really great collection of wines all in one place. 30

PANAMA 9°80° www.locationpanama.com

While at Bon Vivant, we ordered a cheese board, with samples from different countries and regions: a Beemster Gouda from the Netherlands, a Stilton blue cheese from England, a Camembert du Bocage from France, a Tartufo Sottocenere from Italy, an Idiazabal from Spain and a Tête Moine from Switzerland. The board was practically a taste bud playground, the amazing collection of cheeses was surrounded by fresh thyme, spiced almonds, dried cranberries, toasts drizzled in extra virgin olive oil, English pickled plums and a Picota cherry purée made especially to accompany the cheeses. Our cheese sampling was followed by an Iberian focaccia, served with Picota cherry purée, a fresh salmon, peppers, Manchego and arugula salad. We sampled a variety of Terroris D’Antan sausages; the lamb sausage “natural Merguez”, the “boudin blanc”, a traditional French sausage made out of chicken, pork, milk and Cognac and the “Hunter’s sausage” made with wild boar and apples. All were accompanied by a Romesco sauce and an excellent radish. This decadent feast ended with a pâté trio: Mousse de Canard au Foie Gras, pâté de Campagne and a duck & plum pâté. Bon Vivant serves great sandwiches, some of our favorites are the Norwegian salmon ciabatta and the Iberian trio. At Bon Vivant, the atmosphere is casual and relaxed, the décor is tasteful, fun and inviting with chalkboards, colorful placemats and chairs made from recycled Coca Cola cans.

Just like Julie said, first you go for the café, and then you explore all the fascinating things the store offers, and come back over and over again. Note: all of the ingredients used in the food served in the café are sold at the store. Contact information: Tel: (507) 203-6498 Location: 64th Street, San Francisco Hours: Every day from 8:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.

PANAMA 9°80°

CUQUITA COOKITA One of those funny coincidences of life, in one edition we landed in two restaurants with one thing in common: Chef Cuquita Arias de Calvo! This time we sit down to chat with Chef Cuquita about a very chic and refreshing new endeavor.

How did you come up with the idea for Cuquita Cookita?

I think that inspiration emerges in the least imaginable moments, it could have been the result of a conversation, I don’t exactly recall, but it was perhaps the illusion to do something that involved delicious food, comfort food, a real home cooked meal unavailable elsewhere. To eat healthy! I mean traditional home cooking from decades ago, not today’s home cooking where people do everything in a rush. Home cooking like the times when people really had time to go home for lunch. Traditional food presented in a modern way, very New Yorker, served in recyclable containers. This is a place where desserts tempt you and you can’t resist not having them, that you can enjoy them here or at home in bed and eat a baked Alaska at 12 midnight. I have done many things in my life, I do weddings and other things, but for me this is like arriving home. The place is very modern and, of course, it has elements of my signature color everywhere (a now neutralized and industrialized pink with that feminine touch). Cuquita Cookita’s initial idea was to serve as a takeout place, catering to people that all of a sudden need to serve a dinner for 10, or those who arrive home tired but wanted to serve a good meal without having to cook it themselves. We are extremely surprised at how people have embraced the place as a restaurant, as you can see it has become very popular and we found ourselves purchasing more tables and stools. We are going to add a bar by the window so people can also eat standing up, New York style. I believe that the people are in charge, and what started as one thing resulted in another. We will continue to develop the takeout section and we are including a delicious breakfast. Roasted ham just out of the oven, fruits, waffles, homemade yogurt and granola, breakfast will be served from 8:30 a.m. to 12:00 p.m., then by 4:00 p.m. we will serve crêpes and salads.

photo by PEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY

PANAMA 9°80°

photo by PEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY

We have a selection of frozen foods to make life easier, especially for people who go to their vacation homes over the weekend and the gourmet to go which is what we serve right now but to go. We have prix fixe menus. Since people often return looking for a specific dish that they loved, we have created 3 weekly prix fixe (fixed price) menus that include 9 salads, 9 sides and 2 to 3 meat carving stations. Our soups are delicious: ripe plantain soup, fresh corn soup, black bean soup with sour cream and pico de gallo, the tomato soup comes with pesto tortellinis and Manchego cheese, they all have something added so the soup becomes almost a full meal. We also have options for vegans: rice, couscous and a lot of vegetables.

“I like to fill the voids, I don’t care for imitation or copying others, I like to be very original”. This is a company that has been created and developed for and by women. Even our driver is a lady. Contact information: Tel: (507) 399-5756 Open Monday to Friday from 8:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Saturdays from: 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. www.cuquitacookita.com PANAMA 9°80°

photo by PEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY

ATHANASIOU Something is happening in Panama, there is a new trend, people are so excited to find new culinary delights here and there and Athanasiou is one of the leaders on the charts. From Kalamata, Greece, all the way to Panama City, Athanasiou arrives like the 3 wise men bearing gifts. The sign outside proudly reads, “Bakery, patisserie, confiserie, café, croissanterie, gelateria, chocolaterie”. When you step into Athanasiou, you feel like a kid that walks inside Magic Kingdom for the first time, all is beautiful and all is possible and you get that instant sparkle in your eyes that makes people smile!

Give me some sugar…honey! My first affair with Athanasiou started with the chocolate croissant (pain au chocolat), sinful layers of buttery bread and luscious and decadent chocolate. The best in Panama. Then I discovered something new, it even sounds like a breathtaking galaxy…The Galactoboureko! Glorious, completely indulging, self-pampering custard baked within a crispy phyllo pastry. It became an obsession that had to be stopped when a new clothing size became necessary.

PANAMA 9°80° www.locationpanama.com

Four other regulars are the pistachiochocolate mousse, delicate with impeccable presentation, the orange pie with caramelized oranges, shaved almonds and phyllo pastry drenched in an addictive syrup, the bougatsa, love wrapped in phyllo dough, and the kataifi, playful shreads of phyllo dough and syrup. It is not possible to mention all that Athanasiou has to offer, but Athanasiou is more than desserts - they bake breads, make sandwiches and salads and serve a pretty good coffee. Contact information: Tel: (507) 390-1000 Location: Via Porras, Lekadon Plaza Hours: Every day from 7:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. www.athanasioupastry.gr

photo by PEPPOPHOTOGRAPHY

PANAMA 9째80째

POSTCARDS

FROM PEDASI 36

PANAMA 9째80째

•Pedasi is known for great waves

and awesome sunsets. A surf & turf town, a mix of old Spaniard traditions and young people from all over the world seeking to live life to the fullest.

•Relax: Pedasi is a laid back town,

things move slowly. The young hang out at the beach and on lounge chairs, while the most popular afternoon sport for the elderly is sitting in rocking chairs on their porch.

•Hammocks are in high demand

and the dress code consists of flip-flops & bathing suits.

•Sports: Pedasi is the haven for surfers, kite surfers, boarders and divers.

paddle

•Traditions:

Home to great carnivals, a beautiful Easter celebration, a fun wagon parade and host of annual international surf contests.

PANAMA 9°80°

•People:

Locals are great hosts, really friendly, humble and rich at heart.

•Down to earth: Enjoy the

simple things of life. The ocean breeze, the fruit trees, cattle farms, mountains, the smell of firewood cooking. •A place where people are known by terms of endearment (nicknames) •Chase the whales, spot a turtle nesting and go birding.

•Quality of life: a new start, slow down, make new friends. 38

PANAMA 9°80°

•Multi-cultural,

see a local cowboy leading his cattle, young expats carrying infants and toddlers along the road, a couple of yuppies in search the ultimate vacation villa, and baby boomers moving to their new home.

•This is a special place where

an office can be closed due to an ocean swell.

PANAMA 9째80째

in idden h is ity v e g on re l e h w ace brero. l p is a d a som s i h n •T es a l k n i wr 40

PANAMA 9°80°

PANAMA 9째80째

HIGHLIGHTS OF

CHIRIQUI

In the past 10 years, the province of Chiriqui has completely transformed itself into a top international destination and a choice for Panamanians from the capital to escape from the hustle and bustle of an emerging and constantly developing city. Appealing to both the tourism and the residential market.

PANAMA 9째80째

Here is why Chiriqui is a great destination: David:

Volcan, Bambito and Cerro Punta:

The city of David has become the hub of the Chiriqui province, a convenient place to shop and to seek good medical care, even home to various universities. People from neighboring provinces, like Bocas del Toro, travel to David seeking such services.

Besides being the fruit and vegetable basket of Panama, this area offers the most scenic destinations, a wonderful climate that ranges from 55°F to 78°F in temperature, rocky mountain rivers, indigenous tribes, great hiking trails, horse farms, orchid farms, ancient archeological sites, great bird watching and most impressive of all, the Baru Volcano, Panama´s tallest mountain at 11,398 feet, from which on a sunny day you can see both the Pacific and Atlantic Ocean.

David is home to the recently expanded and renovated international airport, receiving flights from Panama City and Costa Rica, also David’s bus terminal has daily shuttles to Costa Rica, Panama City, Bocas del Toro and other provinces and Chiriqui destinations.

PANAMA 9°80°

The area offers multiple cottages, hotels and hostels to suit any taste and budget.

PANAMA 9째80째

Barriles site:

Towards Caisan, 6.5 km from Volcan, is Barriles, an important archeological site where you can find Petroglyphs, tombs and all sorts of articrafts. This site is considered to be home to one of the oldest civilizations on the continent and it is located at Finca Landau. At this site some small drums made of pure rock were found, a grinding stone considered to be one of the biggest ever found, and various other archeological pieces, some of which are currently on display at the Antrhopological Museum of Panama.

PANAMA 9째80째

Boquete: A beautiful valley with rocky mountain rivers and scenic views and a growing expat community, people who just fell in love with the town and decided to move there. If you want to be a part of a community, this is the place to be. Boquete may be a little town, but it is huge when it comes to activities such as the Jazz Festival, Tuesday Market events, Coffee and Flower Festival, art exhibits and classes, theater plays and much more. Boquete is home to multiple coffee plantations, a good selection of restaurants serving different cuisines, a place to practice outdoor activities that range from scenic tours in ATV vehicles to rock climbing, mountain biking, canopy zip-lining, horseback riding, golf, bird watching, hot springs and much more. Boquete’s spring weather is optimal year round and the town has been appointed one of the top retirement communities in the world with a great quality of life. When it comes to real estate, there are many options available for all budgets and lifestyles; there is also a private school with international standards. Boquete is home to a great selection of boutique hotels, mid-range hotels and hostels and its proximity to David makes it so convenient when it comes to having the best of both worlds - a quiet small mountain town and a city with all the services in your backyard.

PANAMA 9°80°

PANAMA 9째80째 www.locationpanama.com

The Beaches Some of Chiriqui’s coastline is still a bit of a mystery - secluded and pristine. Beaches range from those having rough tides and exotic dark sand such as Playa Barqueta, conveniently located salt and pepper beaches like Las Lajas, to quiet and secluded white sand beaches near Boca Chica. Isla Boca Brava is half a mile away from the small mainland town of Boca Chica and it boasts some of the best beaches in the Gulf of Chiriqui. There are a few lodges on the mainland, however, you can also plan a day trip to or camp on an uninhabited island. Fishing and snorkeling are the preferred activities in the area. The Gulf of Chiriqui was designated a National Park in 1994 to protect 55 square miles of abundant and exotic marine life.

Chiriqui has it all, agriculture, commerce with big department stores, hospitals and clinics, universities, mountain towns, beach towns, hiking trails, native indigenous communities, an international airport, a volcano, Panamanian communities and an important international community that has been key to Chiriqui’s recent development.

PANAMA 9°80°

PANAMA 9째80째

The word CHIRIQUI means “The Valley of the Moon” Ngöbe Bugle native dialect

PANAMA 9°80°

PANAMA 9째80째

OLD SCHOOL TOBACCO ROLLING IN PANAMA

PRIDE OF PANAMA

David Reynaga, originally from Los Angeles California, first came to Panama in 1995 as a system engineer working for the US government in the Panama Canal Zone. At the time, David purchased some land thinking about future investments. In 1999 David moved to the UK to continue providing system and communication services for the US government. Having invested in Panama, David moved to Miami to be closer and 5 years ago he moved to Chiriquí where he runs the only quality cigar factory in the country. PANAMA 9°80° www.locationpanama.com

About cigars:

A cigar has 3 kinds of leaves - the binders, the fillers and the wrappers.

The binders are elastic leaves used to hold the filler of a cigar together. The fillers (tripa): The majority of the cigar is made of fillers or blends and there are 3 kinds of fillers: •Volado: from the lowest part of the plant that is used primarily for its burning properties not for its flavor. •Seco (dry): taken from the middle of the plant, these leaves are lighter than ligero, both in color and flavor. •Ligero: comes from the top of the plant, which is exposed to the most sunlight, it is the darkest and most flavorful filler.

The wrappers:

This is the external part of the cigar which comes from the widest part of the plant and it determines the cigar’s character and flavor.

Pride of Panama uses the traditional hand rolling techniques and equipment. First they stretch the filler leaves, wet them, remove the main vein, press them to flatten the leaves and store them for 24 hours in a room over a grid to remove the moisture. The process begins with the bunch maker (bonchero) who rolls the fillers which are a blend of different tobaccos inside the binder. They are then placed in an artifact where they are custom sized and the excess and irregularities from the fillers are trimmed with a knife called a chaveta. The cigars are put into a mold and pressed for 40 minutes after which they are taken out, flipped and put back in the press for another 20 minutes. After the 20 minutes they are ready for the cigar roller (rolero) to apply the wrapping.

PANAMA 9°80° www.locationpanama.com

The wrapping technique is extremely difficult and requires a lot of dexterity and years of practice. Pride of Panama has rolling specialists with over 37 years of experience in the field. When the rolling is done, the cap of the cigar is sealed with a bit vegetable paste to secure the wrapper. The cigars will be ready for consumption in approximately 30 days. Finished cigars are kept in a quality control room where they apply the label band and are stored in a freezer to prevent larvae from growing. Pride of Panama cigars are becoming very popular and coveted and they are currently being exported to the USA, Canada, Japan and Slovakia. Contact information: Tel: (507) 6538-3042 prideofpanama@gmail.com

PANAMA 9째80째

BOCAS

DEL TORO

JOURNAL OF A FREQUENT TRAVELER

Late afternoon, sitting on a balcony perched over the main street on Isla Colon, a glass of Pinot Grigio in one hand and a glimpse of the busy street below the balcony. Everybody is out and about. A colorful boat adorned with green and red Christmas lights docks across the street delivering bananas to a pickup truck parked on the sidewalk, street food vendors frying and roasting local goods, people walking in all directions speaking different languages, some wearing swimsuits, carrying a surfboard, bicycling, skateboarding, a few preppy dressed-up couples heading to a restaurant, a family enjoying a horse carriage sightseeing tour. Yes… all in one glimpse from my favorite watering hole in town. Ahhh… it is good to be back!

SUPER GOURMET

PANAMA 9°80°

PANAMA 9째80째

Bocas is the kind of place where people come for a vacation and stay for life.

For me it is the modern version of a pirate town, the island that never sleeps, a mix of cultures from all over the world, having fun, enjoying nature, doing business and seeking opportunities.

Isla Colon is a bustling town where most people lodge, shop, party, eat and hop on multiple tours to and from all the beautiful and pristine surrounding islands, it is also

a great place to discover quiet and relaxed beach spots such as Punch Beach, Bluff

Beach and Boca del Drago.

PANAMA 9째80째

Take a taxi, rent an ATV or a bicycle and embark on a fun excursion to Playa Bluff Lodge, Paki Point or Yarisnori, Boca del Drago is too far for a bicycle ride. Restaurants and facilities are available for all to enjoy a day in the sun. It is customary for us veterans to visit our favorite spots on Isla Carenero, sip a cocktail at the Cosmic Crab, swim by Bibi’s while ordering some snacks and spend the late afternoon by the Pickled Pirate indulging in a pig roast and a cold beer while listening to some good old classic rock. Isla Bastimentos is another favorite place to hangout with, the beautiful, cool and pristine Red Frog beach on one side and my favorite and very rustic “local causal” Roots restaurant with great octopus and fried plantain on the other.

62www.locationpanama.com PANAMA 9°80°

Note to self & to do list for next visit:

touristy trips to It’s been quite some time since I took one of the love to do it again. the island circuits; it is very beautiful and would Dragón for lunch. Remember to wear sunscreen and to visit Beso del

PANAMA 9°80°

THE PANAMANIAN FONDA (Not to be confused with Henry or Jane Fonda)

A fonda is an informal popular restaurant located on the side of the road that serves a traditional Panamanian selection of meats, 1 salad (potato-egg-beet-mayonnaise) and a variety of fritters. The best fondas are located in the Azuero peninsula, specifically in the town of Los Santos. There are not many fondas that operate year round, most of them open during the town’s festivities and national holidays.

Chorizo Santeño

Bollos

regional chorizo made with pork, onions, salt & achiote

made with ground corn seasoned with salt and boiled inside a corn husk and, in some cases, stuffed with the national cheese

Carimañola yucca stuffed with beef

Chicharrón Torrejita deep fried sweet new corn

Lechona

pork rinds

seasoned and fried suckling pig

Tamal Hojaldra fried dough

tamale made with corn, a chicken or pork stuffing, capers and raisins steamed in a leaf wrapper

Flower glass typical of a fonda

Chicha de raspadura lemon juice sweetened with unrefined whole sugarcane shavings 64

PANAMA 9°80° www.locationpanama.com

Plastic tablecloth typical of a fonda

Achiote spice made from slightly bitter, earthy flavored, red annatto seeds, with a distinctive color

PANAMA 9째80째