Uoza by Paola Andrea Elli

u o z a

“uoza” PAOLA ANDREA ELLI L5 BA FASHION MARKETING AND COMMUNICATION MODULE CODE: MIED 508 MODULE LEVEL: 5 MODULE LEADER: HANNAH S. FRICKE

INDEX INTRODUCTION AND TASK PAGE 5 BRAND CORE PAGE 6 products price place | position swot TARGET PAGE 10 consumers insights consumers purchasing behaviours MARKET ANALYSIS AND BENCHMARK PAGE 15 positioning map MATCHING STORYTELLING PAGE 18 COMMUNICATION PLAN PAGE 19 MEDIA MIX PAGE 20 CREATION PAGE 21 copy strategy brief result

INTRODUCTION AND TASK

Uoza, a small and luxury fashion brand from Japan, aims to enter the Milan fashion scene. The reason behind this expansion strategy is the wish of Uoza to expand its business in fashion aware countries and the choice behind Milan lays in the lack of Asiatic high-end fashion brands in its mature fashion scene. In fact, a brand such as Uoza can bring real novelty to the Milanese fashion scene. The target, which the brand aims for, is composed by people who are used to travel and therefore, they are bored to always find the same international brands in every globalized city they have been. Since Milan is the 4th most global retail city (“Destination Europe 2015” by Jll.eu, 2016). Uoza can fulfil the need of novelty and exoticism throughout the offer of iconic, hand-made pieces embodying the Asian culture from the luxury silk to the specific decorations’ design.

BRAND CORE

Uoza is a small, family driven fashion business established in Nara, a city situated in the Japanese island of Honshu and its capital from 710 to 794. Nowadays it is part of the UNESCO patrimony and it is an important tourist destination every year. Their products consisted in - and still are - beautiful and precious Kimonos designated for the Royal family and that todays are appreciated and cherished by the rich families of the country and by wealthy foreign people vising the town. With the years the company developed also other collection addressed to the daily life such as casual jeans, shirts or more elegant items as night gowns.

Nevertheless, they are still keen on hand-made production of the entire garments in order to give to the items a superior value and quality from the stiches to the Asian art-inspired embroider decorations. In fact, all the items are traditionally handcrafted by specialized artisans who learn their knowledge and skills by their antecedents in a specialized laboratory near the only flagship Uoza owns in Nara.

PRODUCTS The kimono which are the “star” products of Uoza are 100% made of precious naturally raised silk. The other pieces of the collections – jeans, shirts and dresses - are made by

a combination of 60% silk and 40% fair trade cotton that confers lightness and freshness. These are a sort of back up items which sell steady because of the balance quality / price ratio.

The design of the patterns is originally created starting from the inspiration gathered by antique Japanese literature print decorations and from ancient beautiful oriental inspired Japanese artworks. Each collection is composed by 5 items – 2 kimonos, a pair of jeans, 2 shirts and a dress – connected by a “fil rouge” expressed by coherent and combined colours and design patterns. The jeans model, aimed for casual occasions, is the so called the “mum’s fit” evoking the first cuts of Levi’s 511 denim, the shirts’ models change according to their purpose. For daywear they are characterized by tight basic collar, long sleeved and

flared body, on the other hand for nightwear they are long sleeved with fitted body and korea necked. The dresses made for gala nights and celebrations recalls the shapes of a kimonos but with adjustments in order to highlight the femininity of the woman who is wearing it. Last, the kimonos are items made for nightwear as much as for sleepwear when women have the necessity to feel comfortable without give up on beauty.

PRICE The peculiarity of the brand, lies in its heritage and its desire of following the ancient tradition of the first kimono’s laboratory. As the items are entirely hand-made, the amount of products the fashion house can create per each collection are limited to circa fifties units which are produced on request. This characteristic makes the items precious and it increases their value. In straight monetary terms, the kimonos value from 2100€ for the most basic ones in plain colours and few simple embroideries, up to 4650€ for the special and celebrative edition fully embroider and carefully designed. The jeans have a price that varies from 980€ to 1500€ also according the quantity and the details of the embellishments. Also the price of the shirts – from 1000 to 2300€ – and the dresses – from 1000€ to 2.850€ – is subjected of the ornaments’ entity.

PLACE | POSITION It is important to mention that the brand is present with just one flagship store in Nara and it operates in the other countries through an online shopping platforms. Throughout the web they are present across Japan, China and Korea. As explained before, Uoza is really keen on hand-made and the items are produced on request. Therefore, the clients that have the possibility go to the store to select, try, make the fitting – when necessary – and purchase the items. Uoza have only a store because the brand wants to maintain its exclusivity.

In fact, the brand present itself as high luxury fashion house who provide superior values embodied in their items: the extremely refined quality of the natural materials together with the precious beauty of the embroideries. Their pieces are pieces of art with historical references which can be defined as part of three different luxury fashion market’s sectors according to their utilization. In fact, Uoza provides a model of jeans and shirt for a causal daywear, dresses for elegant and extremely smart celebrative nights and the kimonos, core products of the brand, which enter the niche of the sleepwear or eveningwear segment.

SWOT S

Quality of the material and the hand-made production, features that are extremely appreciated by the rich target segment Uoza is addressing.

Comfortability bound with femininity which are the two main characteristics that every woman – of the Uoza’s target – is looking for.

The lack in the Milanese fashion scene of pure Asiatic luxury brands who can attract the local and bored target as well as tourists coming to the Italian capital of fashion to discover the creative environment and looking for novelty.

Natural growth material, a characteristic that follows the environmental friendly trend in fashion.

As Uoza, right now, has a really small offer in the future it has the possibility of accomplish a brand expansion in term of products and location

The strong historical background of the brand which is a forceful base for storytelling.

Online shopping is currently a big trend in the fashion market.

Niche market and extremely luxury segment which is well mature in Milan and that counts on a wide target audience already – to which Uoza wants to appeal.

It is a small company and even if their income is higher than the average of others such little organisations, the premium materials’ quality and the careful hand-made production require high amounts of financial resources.

Exclusivity sometimes means lower brand awareness.

Uoza wants to expand while maintaining its traditional structure and processes and that can be a limitation in term of production possibility.

Hand-made production means a big logistic and distribution effort and need a strong organization in order to be coherent with the fashion calendar and in line with the industry’s calendar schedules.

The presence of just one flagship store. Even if today ecommerce and online shopping are becoming more and more important as sales channels, brick and mortar stores are still a strong point of reference for consumers especially if they are in the same range age of Uoza’s target.

For a small Asiatic brand, the Milanese fashion scene can be a cruel and harsh environment. Especially because it is ruled by big, historical and globally well-established fashion houses.

As Uoza right now disposes of just one flagship store, introducing the brand in Milan means to face distribution issues. In addition, Nara and Milan are 9617km distant and for the first two/three years the ROI won’t cover all the economic efforts invested in the project as well as the shipment’s costs which are going to be extremely high and impactful.

TARGET

The target to whom Uoza is addressing is composed by eccentric, chic women in the range age from 50 to 75 with a household income per year of 333,493€ living or passing by Milan. The examples who perfectly embodies the characteristic of the ideal customer is the protagonist of the novel entitled “Mame” by Patrick Dennis which narrate the extraordinary adventures around the world of a nonconformist rich Newyorkers during the first years of the 50’s. The protagonist is described by literary critics the “un forgettable old maid of New England” and she has lot in common with others novels’ heroines such as Lorelei Lee, Rossella O’Hara and Blanche DuBois.

The target is composed by all the “getting-grey-hair” women who still feel they have the world at their feet and whose selfconfidence lends them a supreme grace to their figures. They are ladies who travelled and still are travelling the globe for work as well as for pleasure. They are art directors, art critics, professional in the fashion industry, journalists, interior designers, architects or musicians. In general, women part of the creative environment with a huge knowledge and backgrounds. They descend from rich families and during their life they achieved success and high social status therefore, they have never had economic problems but they have always been extremely rich. Therefore, they are used to be surrounded by excellence and pleasant things. These women love beauty in all of its form: arts, nature, cultures and fashion as part of their day to day routine. They also like comfortability since, during the daily activities they are always wearing impeccable outfits. Once at home after 16 really busy hours they want to wear their pyjama and sit on the sofa with a glass of wine preferably, while

reading the last issue of IoDonna a weekly insert of the Corriere della Sera, Vogue Italia, Conde Nast Traveller or watching movies such as Eat Prey Love, Sex and the City, The Devil Wears Prada, Mamma Mia or others that has protagonist characters in which they can reflect themselves.

As Uoza is going to operate in their country through online platform, it is important to underline the target are tech savvy. In fact, since technology firstly appears in their world they embraced it. In fact, they want to be perceived as modern women and nowadays modern women are running with their elegant iPhones 6s in their hands. In addition, a real actual woman uses social networks therefore, they have learned who to like, tag and post on Instagram and Facebook as much as they like ‘pin’ on their Pinterest walls. According to We Are Social Italia, 2016, the percentage of women users in the age between 46 – 55 is stunningly increasing by a 40% each year.

C o n s u m e r s

P u r c h a s i n g

B e h a v i o u r s

The choice of Milan as location lays in the fact that an in-depth interviews conducted by Cesare Amatulli and Gianluigi Guido states that Italy is a country where the geographical context is relevant under the point of view of fashion consumption (Altagamma, 2009). In fact, Milan is a mature market as France or England where luxury purchases intentions are different from emerging markets such as Russia, India and China. Considering the study of Tsai (2005) in mature market, as Milan is, it is possible to talk about internalized luxury which means that high fashion items are purchased based on individual style and not for showing a social positioning or a status symbol. Therefore, the women part of Uoza target are people who buys luxury items because motivated by aesthetic pleasure, cultural and personal sensibility and personal values. In addition, in Italy ecommerce platforms such as Alibaba and Amazon are increasingly famous. Therefore, entering the market through online shopping and shipments possibility is not a bad idea according to the data showed by the folloqing figures.

HHI by family status in Milan, Italy

It shows the HHI of single people living alone, category in which enters the tarhet of Uoza. Piano di Zona di Milano, 2009

Amount of population for gender and marital status in Italy. It highlights that the higher range age is the one Uoza is targeting - from 45 to 75 years old.

Istat, 2015

Acitive users in the most popular social network in each channel. In Italy the population

46% of the

77%

Facebook of the users are women (Pomes, C. 2016) Pinterest counts a female users

42% of

Instagram reaches the of women users.

29%

Pomes, C. (2016)

The change of Facebook usage along the year according to age range. Even if the figures referes to both male and female polĂŹpulation, it still is a point of reference for which it is possible to see how aging people are starting to enhace socials media more and more.

Voncos.it, 2013

The graph shows the percentage of users who bhought or order goods and services online in the previous 12 month by age gorup.

It shows how the older population (55/74 years old that contains Uozaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s target as well) is constantly and increasingly embracing ecommerce and online shopping services. Ec.europa.eu. (2016)

MARKET ANALYSIS AND BENCHMARK

Milan is a city renowned for the fashion market especially it is known as one of the fashion capital in fact every year it hosts the fashion week in which the main players present their collections. Analysing the market, it is possible to see that Milan it is a globalized urbanization where the concentration of international brands is extremely high. Nevertheless, the fashion scene is mainly controlled by local high-end house such as La Perla, Dolce&Gabbana, Ermano Scervino and Valentino.

La Perla

is a really feminine fashion brand which started back in the 1954 by Ada Masotti as a pure lingerie brand. Currently La Perla is developing a new strategy aimed at leveraging its existing positioning as a top brand to evolve into a true luxury brand. They are pushing the quality as main, strong characteristic. In addition, the brand hired, for the latest 2016 advertising campaign, professionals such as Fabien Baron and the photographers Mert and Marcus in order to evolve the visual message of the company which wants to convey that there are multiple styles of femininity interpreted by La Perla collections.

Dolce&Gabbana

is a luxury fashion brand launched in 1982 therefore, their background is not so deep into heritage but they always push their connection to their mother land Italy through the use of traditional patterns and recalling design as much as Uoza wants to be connected with its Asian heritage. The Italian brand is also keen on using silk in their sleepwear collections.

ErmannoScervino

is the epitome of the local production. It was born in Florence in 2000 and since then it is synonyms of the high quality Made in Italy. The design is based to the concept of innovative luxury therefore, it seems Scervino is not directly competing with Uoza. Nevertheless, their collections have high quantity of refined embroideries and the just looking at the gowns it is possible to feel the gentle and soft touch of the supreme quality materials.

Valentino

fashion house was founded in 1960 by legendary fashion designer Valentino Garavani and his business partner Giancarlo Giammetti. It is a brand that throughout the years and it evolutions had the ability to stay true to its brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s legacy meanwhile performing collections with a high content of feminine and contemporary aesthetic. Valentinoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection Floral 1997 is the most threatening competition Uoza has to face. In fact, the price range, the shapes, the items proposed are extremely similar. Nevertheless, Uoza style and embroider decorations are extremely unique because they are hand-made.

POSTIONING MAP

T A

O R I G I N A L A E S T H E T I C B D

I G

C N

MATCHING STORYTELLING

The common trait among all the Uozaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collections is the presence of the Japanese carp hand-made embroider on the kimonos. This fish, that also features the logo, in the Japanese culture means courage and represent a person who does not run in front of difficulties instead he/her openly faces them with perseverance and constancy. The brand choses this animal as symbol because it perfectly embodies the characteristic of the material the brand uses: silk and cotton. Moreover, the carp represent the first artisans who were creating the first kimonos for the Real Family, and who with the tenancy and patient kept on transmitting generation after generation the necessary skills to handcraft Uozaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s products. The results are items that at the touch can appear fragile but they are long lasting and resistant in order to go along with their owners in the incredible voyage of life.

COMMUNICATION PLAN

a. Benchmark

Looking at the Italian players we have analysed in the previous paragraph it is possible to see how their advertising campaign effectively reflect each brand’s values. La Perla decided to elevate its position in the fashion scene therefore, the company hired professional fashion photographers which are worldwide know in order to increase their positions in the high-end clothing industry to create the adverting photoshoot of the SS 2016 campaign which now features between the pages of important industry related such as Vogue and Cosmopolitan. In addition, their advertising projects also involves video advertising campaign characterised by great aesthetic artistic contents thanks to the artistic director Fabrei Baron. Actually, La Perla through this advertising campaign achieve the goal of leveraging its position. (Siciliano, 2014). The Dolce&Gabbana advertising campaign are characterised by the presence of several people acting natural poses in order to create a familiar, involving environment. The Italian brand plays a lot with celebrities’ endorsement. Their advertising campaign in printed magazine such as Vogue Italy, Cosmopolitan, IoDonna and others. As la Perla they are used to hire professional and worldwide known photographer for example Mario Testino and Steven Meisel. In addition, their advertising spot won several advertising awards because of the collaboration with movie directors as Giuseppe Tornatore. Differently from La Perla, Dolce&Gabbana uses to place their advertising campaign on billboards. One of the most effective was located above the departures display at the MXP Ariport (Smith, 2016). b. Communication objectives They want to introduce their name within the so called “quadrilatero della moda” and become known for the precious, high quality, meanwhile natural, silk used to produce their items as well as for the hand-made embroideries and the careful design of each unique piece. In order to success in Milan, Uoza has to take into consideration that the Italian target they are addressing is already part of a mature fashion environment and moreover they are rich people who has no problem in acquire whatever they desire. Therefore, the communication of the brand aims to awake their curiosity appealing to their aesthetical personal taste. On short term the main objective is to create awareness around Uoza and make the customers aware of the online shopping channel. It means that the brand wants to enter the Italian market. In order to do that, they want to engage the same kind of customers they are currently targeting in Japan. Spreading the brand’s name, background and values it creates a sort of lifestyle in which the potential clients can impersonate themselves. Doing so Uoza is “pulling” them to purchase part of their world by acquiring a piece of the collection. Talking about the medium / long term the advertising effort of Uoza should be aimed to back up the exit of the new collections. Meanwhile maintain and better the market position within the Italian market. This is achievable by creating always new and claiming contents expressing the brand’s core values.

MEDIA MIX

Taking into consideration that Uoza is a small brand with a great potential in terms of attraction but the budget it disposes for communication cannot be compared to the one of the competitors listed before. Therefore Uoza should focusing on develop a powerful campaign for printed media and then take also advantage of below the line media which are less costly. So that the best investments possible is going to be the creation of a photo advertising campaign in collaboration with a famous fashion photographer that has to be chosen not only based on aesthetic values but also taking into consideration the low budget Uoza has avaiable, circa 45.000â&#x201A;Ź. The advertising will show the star item of the new collection and the website where the new Italian customers can find the link to the online shopping or simply get more information about the brand. In order to spread this campaign Uoza should buy a two page spread on a fashion magazine (estimation of circa 20.000â&#x201A;Ź). According to the report developed by Audipress (2015), it is preferable that Uoza is present on IoDonna because the statistics shows IoDonna for being read by the 62% of the women, moreover the readership amounts to 917.000 and rthe distribution to 372.000 (audipress 2015/I). Moreover, taking into consideration to the research developed about the target and the graph which shows the substantial

and steady growth of socials user in the deifferent range age (page10), it is important that Uoza uses below the line and social media communication in order to increase its visibility and widely spread the advertising campaign. The brand should exploit Facebook and Instagram where has also the posibility to link its website and provid the shopping channel. These platforms are the right funnels to upload branded content, foment engagement, create visibility and establish a community of follower where the target can create relationship between them as well as with the brand. For branded content it means, behind of the fashion photoshoot for the advertising campign, real time video of the production process in Japan and photos of new articles.

CREATION

a. WHAT IS IT Uoza is a small Japanese fashion brand. In the niche market of hand-made embroider items which decorations are inspired by the Asian artistic heritage. b. TARGET The target to whom Uoza is addressing is composed by eccentric, chic, elegant single or married women in the range age from 45 to 80+ with a household income per year of 333,493â&#x201A;Ź living or passing by Milan, the fashion capital. c. BENEFITS -

Customers have the possibility to feel the fresh touch of the smooth materials on their skin.

Wearing Uozaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s items the eccentric target can always feel fascinating and in the centre of the public attention.

Clients acquire premium quality and long lasting items.

d. REASON WHY -

The pleasant sensation on the skin is given by the refined quality of the materials used for the production of the items.

Beauty and originality of the embroideries and fabric decorations confer to the items eccentric uniqueness.

The items are perfectly handcrafted by wise and skilled traditional textiles artisans.

e. TONALITY Simple but effective communication. It has to be really visual in order to efficiently communicate the saviour usage of handcraft skills and the bound with the ancient Japan Empire and its rich traditions. The visuals use must be characterized by light colours palette and clean composition in order to emphasize the decorative fantasy of the embroideries.

Key Message:

HERITAGE, ASIAN, ECCENTRIC

Uoza needs an advertising campaign aimed to be features in the fashion weekly insert IoDonna. The advertising is going to occupy two pages with the format of A4. The photo has to show an Asian model wearing a kimono of the collection Uoza is going to launch to enter the Italian market. The model has to be Asian in order make the clear statement that the brand is from Asia. The kimono is going to be colourful and decorate, the model as well is going to wear extravagant and colourful make-up and hair-dress in order to awake sensation of exoticism which appeal to the taste of the consumers. The scene is going to be settle in a river and the model is going to be with half of the body in the water. On the photo will be placed the Uozaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s logo composed by the two carps fish. Also it is needed to placed in capital letter OTADUY and â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;shop online at Uoza. com.

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PAOLA ANDREA ELLI L5 BA FASHION MARKETING AND COMMUNICATION MODULE CODE: MIED 508 MODULE LEVEL: 5 MODULE LEADER: HANNAH S. FRICKE

Elli&Co. We are an agency founded in 1995 and bron as a family business. We are really keen on our roots and traditions therefore we understand the wish of Uoza of stay true to its heritage and background story. We are set in Milan. We started with supporting local brand in launching their activities so that Uoza can take advantage of our experiences in the Italian fashion market and knowledge about the clothing market players. With the years our capability take us collaborating with international luxury fashion brands which want to adress the Italian market. Taking into consideration this fact, we are an agency which understands the needs of a small company with a low budget but that wants to enter an international and really competitive environment.

TASK Launching Uoza, an Asian fashion brand keen on its heritage, tradions and with an eccentric aesthetic, into the Milanese fashion scene.

EXPECTATIONS Young target Massive communication Assumed design

REALITY 45/75 target involved in the creative industry Niche market approach Eccentric and exclusive design

STRENGHT QUALITY FEMININE AND COMFORTABLE ECO-FRIENDLY STRONG TRADITION NICHE MARKET WEAKNESSES NECESSITY OF RESOURCES EXCLUSIVITY LIMITED PRODUCTION ONLINE SHOPPING

OPPORTUNITIES LACK OF PURE ASIAN FASHION BRANDS TASKBRAND EXPANSION ONLINE SHOPPING THREAT COMPETITIVE ENVIRONMENT LOGISTIC AND DISTRIBUTION

POTENTIALS HERITAGE HAND-MADE PRODUCTION ECCENTRIC ASIAN AESTHETIC

TARGET 45 / 75 WOMEN HHI: 333,493â&#x201A;¬ ARTISTIC AESTHETIC HEIRS

WHAT THEY LIKE BEAUTIFUL THINGS COMFORTABILITY BE MODERN TRAVEL HAVE THE PUBLIC ATTENTION

WHAT THEY DON’T LIKE MAINSTREAM DESIGN MASS MARKET FASHION BE CALLED ‘OLD’

LA PERLA PREMIUM FASHION BRAND AVERAGE POSTION STRONG HISTORIC BACKGROUND COMMUNICATION They are currently collaborating with fashion photographer such as Mert&Marcus in order to develop an advertisign campagn to leverage their postion in the fashion market

DOLCE&GABBANA DESIGN INSPIRED BY CULTURE HIGH QUALITY MATERIALS COMMUNICATION The Italian brand performed advertising campaigns in collaboration with important movie directors and fashion photographer to increase their reputability

MEDIA STRATEGY Photo advertising campaign to be featured on IoDonna the insert of Corriere della Sera. It is a magazine that is really appreciated by women of our target BUDGET: 45.000â&#x201A;Ź AD CAMPAIGN | TWO SPREADS 20.000â&#x201A;Ź Uoza aims to increase its visibility throughout spreading the advertising campaign and the processes behind it towards socials media which are less costly but equally used by the target.

COPY STRATEGY

WHAT IT IS Small Asian fashion brand part of the niche market of the hand-made luxury items insiper by cultural heritage TARGET 45/75 women HHI: 333,400â&#x201A;¬

BENEFITS The pleasant fresh touch of the materials on the skyn Being always at the centre of the attention Long lasting quality items REASON WHY Luxury quality of the materials Beautiful and orignal fabric decorations Superior handcrafted production

TONALITY Simplicity Visual impact Light colour palettes KEY MESSAGE Heritage Asian Eccentric

CREATION

The landscape is a picture of the a garden in Nara, the home country of the brand and it is relevant to connect Uoza with its country. The colour have being modified to acquired a blue tint in order to recall the colours of the sovrimpressed logo.

CREATION The outfit is an item part of the last Uoza collection with wich the brand whats to enter the Italian market. It embodies the main characteristic of the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s products: quality of the fabric, eccentric look and handmade details As well the picture as been manipulate to fit the mood of the campaign and be coherent with the brand aesthetic

CREATION The logo is composed by a Ying Yang formed by two carp, which fish gives the name to the brand. In fact, in Japanese carp is â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;uozaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; The presence of the logo is relevant in order that the consumers start to get use to recognize it and be aware of the connection between the logo a certain kind of recognizable style.

THE RESULT