January 2013 "Oh Boy!" issue

OH BOY!

THE ANNUAL MENSWEAR ISSUE WHAT’S YOUR SARTORIAL RESOLUTION? THE FIRST OFFICIAL MAN-TERVIEW TEE-ING OFF 1

CONTENTS

Photo by KATYA TSYGANOVA

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR The Annual Menswear Issue!

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MENSWEAR MANS UP E-tailer J Hilburn is a blueprint for the future.

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TIMELESS MAN Photography by Roch Armando.

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SATORIAL RESOLUTION Stylist Alvin Stillwell shares his style icon & no-fail rules for a fashionable 2013.

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TEE PLAYERS Alex Dakoulas Tu Duong

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MISS-MATCHED Photography by Natalia Salminen.

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THE CHILL Photography by Kyna Marie.

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MAN-TERVIEW The ultimate men's survey.

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OPEN ROAD Photography by Alvin Nguyen.

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GENTLEMAN'S CLUB Photography by Agata Mayer.

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GETTING HIGH ON HIGHLAND The new menswear brand is perfect wardrobe pick-me-up.

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CHAIN-MALE Photography by Samantha Nande.

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NICK CAVE'S SOUNDSUITS High-fashion meets performance art.

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THORNED Photography by Jackie Moller.

IN THIS ISSUE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Hayley Maybury CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Jamall Oluokun MARKETING DIRECTOR Shomari Miller FASHION EDITOR & COPY EDITOR Jessica Young WEB DEVELOPER Jason DePeaux INTERACTIVE MEDIA DESIGNER Lucy Nersesian GRAPHIC DESIGN INTERN Margaret Walsh

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Lindsay Zgonina Alisha Madkins Jessica Young Alyssa Davis Alvin Stillwell CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS/ PHOTOGRAPHERS Alvin Nguyen Natalia Salminen Kyna Marie Samantha NandeZ Jackeline Moller Agata Mayer Roch Armado

ON THE COVER Photographed by ALVIN NGUYEN Styling ALVIN STILLWELL Makeup by TRACY MOYER Model NIC. L Styling Assistant by SANDY PHAN

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATORS Graphik H Katinka Feijs

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FROM THE EDITOR THE ANNUAL MENSWEAR ISSUE!

Oh boy! Another year’s flown by and while it’s a goodbye to 2012, 2013 promises a fresh start.

With each issue, we try to do a good job of including content that appeals to both genders, but January brings our annual menswear issue just for the guys!

So gentlemen, this month be prepared to have your wardrobe shaken up as we introduce you to some cool new onthe-rise menswear designers and brands.Get an inside view on what it’s like to go from corporate life to starting your own brand and the stumbles and successes along the way. One of our favorite stylists Alvin Stillwell gives you some styling tips. And our brave writer Lindsay Zgonina sits down with five guys to get their insight on fashion, grooming, tech tools and relationships.

We are dying to know how the rest of you would answer these Man-terview questions. Tweet us your answers! (@papercutmag #man-terview) Also, January is all about menswear shows in the fashion world. Download our interactive iPad app to check out a few of my favorite menswear picks for the spring season!

So, without further ado, I give you the MENSWEAR ISSUE!!

Enjoy gentlemen!

xx Hayley

Illustration by Katinka Feijs

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WANT THE LATEST IN FASHION, ART, CULTURE & NEWS? DON’T FORGET TO VISIT US ON THE WEB

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MENSWEAR MANS UP E-TAILER J HILBURN IS A BLUEPRINT FOR THE FUTURE OF FASHION. Written by JESSICA YOUNG Photography by THOM JACKSON

the traditional eCommerce model. Helmed by former Wall Streeters, co-founders Hil Davis and Veeral Rathod never imagined they would start a clothing brand. However, equipped with a passion for made-to-measure clothing and Wall Street experience covering luxury retail and restaurants, they threw their hat into the ring to take on the retail-market holes and inefficiencies that the Great Recession and digital revolution did a good job of dredging up. Thus, the attainable-luxury brand J Hilburn marries a strategic mix of elements that is poised to style the everyday man well.

Finding inspiration in the most unlikely of retail spaces, Hil and Veeral adopted a direct-sales model known as Style Advisors to supplement J Hilburn’s eCommerce side. Yes, I repeat, a direct-sales model. The one that’s seemingly outdated as it’s famously attached to the Tupperware parties and Avon saleswomen of yore. As eCommerce’s biggest foe is a high 40% return rate, it’s coupled with the fact that purchasing high-quality, madeto-measure clothing online is often met with consumer reservation. Approaching a nationwide network of 4,000, Anyone looking to get into the fashion industry knows that menswear is the latest thing. As it’s an underserved and underexploited segment of the luxury market, fashion companies are quickly positioning themselves to capitalize on the skyrocketing growth rate menswear is currently experiencing. Due to the perfect storm of market forces, men are finally getting a clue about personal style and heading to the Internet. With the rise of style blogs via digital media, eCommerce and proliferation of devices (mobiles, iPads), today’s affluent male is more attuned to fashion trends and are more likely to shop for themselves like never before.

As the digital realm has many times proven, it’s a fast-paced environment where new business models are born, evolve, adapt and perhaps die. Quickly. Opportunity is high, experimentation is the name of the game and the chance to truly innovate is the prize. And in the face of such a fruitful yet unpredictable arena, only the leanest (lowest operating costs) and meanest (ruthlessly strategic) will win. As fashion is always a cutthroat industry, the same can be said about it’s new digital playing field, although it’s democratic nature allows a more diverse crowd to go up to bat. Of the fashion startups that sprouted in a more equal-opportunity environs, many are the brainchildren of industry outsiders who breathe fresh life into the market with new companies that, dare I say, better serve and better clothe the consumers they cater to.

One such notable, rising menswear e-tailer is J Hilburn. Combining acute market positioning, technology and a partnership network, J Hilburn’s hallmark hybrid model leverages the benefits of both the click-to-buy and brick-and-mortar worlds – an evolutionary offspring of 6

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their available-in-a-neighborhood-near-you Style Advisors take the risk out of purchases and bring a tactile and personal touch to the experience that fills the gap where eCommerce falls short.

But don’t think for a second that these Style Advisors are anything similar to Tupperware parties or Avon saleswomen. J Hilburn’s Style Advisors are extensively trained and educated on the technicalities of menswear and style news. As the backbone and ultimately the face of the brand, the Style Advisors are a crucial component to connecting with the consumer on both a content and customer-service front. Unlike other retail sites, J Hilburn introduced their Style Kit iPad app as both a customerfacing and internal source for educational editorial content -- an efficient use of resources as it kills two birds with one stone . Whether a male shopper is learning about spring trends while shopping on their iPad or a Style Advisor is using the Style Kit as a guide to explain the various lapels for a suit jacket before taking a customer’s measurements, both parties are simultaneously updated on the latest and greatest from the J Hilburn brand.

While the technology and combination of two retail formats succeed in catering to men’s propensity to shop and learn about style online, what about the product itself?

Innovative business models are irrelevant if the product doesn’t stand against the current male’s elevated taste.

The popularity of trend-packed style blogs and digital media has gone beyond fashion-conscious cities and informed the masses of middle America on the merits of combining bright colors, adding pops of print to ensembles and exploring personal style. Needing to live up to the fashion demands of today’s man and the quality expected of made-to-measure clothing, Hil and Veeral brought on Jon

Patrick, who most recently worked at Ralph Lauren, as VP of Product to give the brand personality and a point of view.

Understanding that the main tenet of menswear is marrying form with function, Jon set out to create a product that is luxurious, trend-right yet performance driven.

Sourcing fabric from Italian mills who also manufacture for Zegna and Burberry is just the starting point for building the perfect shirt, blazer or suit. Jon leaves the building to the customer’s preference and instead delivers all the tools: fabrications, prints, colors, piped trims, lined and unlined options, style details plus a veritable assortment of lapels, cuffs and collars. The possibilities are truly endless and Jon ensures that every man can make the most of his personal style.

As availability and accessibility become everimportant, J Hilburn provides a seamless experience (whether online or offline) for the style-savvy man regardless of his physical location. A real testament to the market efficiencies that are a possibility in the Digital Age, high quality, customizability and value pricing makes fashion available for everyone to democratically consume.

This is the new wave in retail and the fashion industry has no choice but to ride it. Once second to womenswear, menswear is embracing these changes while paving the road to sustainable solutions, and J Hilburn is certainly leading the way. shop: jhilburn.com read: jhilburn.tumblr.com

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TIMELESS MAN Photography by ROCH ARMANDO Stylist SOFIA SANZ Y PRAST Hair & Makeup by SONIA DUCHAUSSOY @ airport paris Model FRANÇOIS VERKERK @ marilyn agency paris Film Processing by PROCESSUS PARIS

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SARTORIAL RESOLUTION

STYLIST ALVIN STILLWELL SHARES HIS STYLE ICON & NO-FAIL RULES FOR A FASHIONABLE 2013.

Written by ALVIN STILLWELL Illustration by GRAPHIK H http://graphikh.tumblr.com/

Welcome 2013, mighty glad you’re here! Let's face it, between hurricane Sandy, the continuing global economic woes, the Mayan faux-pocalypse and the fiscal cliff, it's been a hell of a year. Hey 2012, don't let the door hit you on the way out!

So, when my friends at Papercut Magazine (whom I’ve had the pleasure of collaborating with for some time now) asked me to write about menswear, I decided to share with you my favorite style icon who endlessly inspires me and three golden rules that’ll have men always putting their best-dressed foot forward in 2013.

OUR STYLE ICONS Whether it was dad getting dressed up in his special shirt to go to Sizzler, a man-crush in college, the cool uncle who lives in the "big city", sports figures, that slightly richer

friend who we sorta hated growing up, or maybe that musician we geeked out on in our teens, everyone has someone they look up to as a style icon.

For me, my style icon is always Mr. David Bowie.

With fifty years as an artist, countless albums, neverending accolades and awards, David Bowie is always fearless and forward-thinking. From fashion moments in Thin White Duke and Ziggy Stardust to head-to-toe Thom Browne, he is still as relevant today as when he broke out in the music and pop-culture scene of the 1960's.

What I love the most about his style is that he always wore fashion but fashion never wore him. After so many years of different characters and incarnations, when Bowie performs it's an expression of who he is an artist at that moment. Always sanguine and always evolving.

If I was channeling my inner Bowie, what would I tell Papercut readers?

Gentlemen, after years of being a fashion stylist, there are certain things I know are true. These are my three golden rules: 1. Develop a relationship with a good tailor. Personally, I always have to get things altered. You can make any article of clothing look correct by making sure it fits your body well.

2. No one likes to see an outfit on a man that looks too precious or studied. Learn to take chances by mixing it up and taking risks. Find upcoming brands and purchase them. Plus, it feels good to give The Man a swift punch in the throat by supporting local and emerging designers.

3. Art, courage and intelligence will always be fashionable.

Happy New Year to All. A.

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TEE PLAYERS IN THE GRAPHIC T-SHIRT GAME, TWO RISING STARS CHAMPION THE MALE-WARDROBE FAVORITE.

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KILLING IT: ALEX DAKOULAS

THE TWENTY-SOMETHING DANCE PARTY MASSACRE FOUNDER SHARES HIS SUCCESS AT ENTREPRENEURSHIP. Interview by ALYSSA DAVIS

Earlier this fall, I had the luxury of meeting Alex Dakoulas of Dance Party Massacre. We met a few weeks before the launch of his Zombie Fashion Show at Emerald, a new lounge designed to resemble Emerald City from the Wizard of Oz. With a brushed-steel art installation of a tornado and a 15-seat green-onyx bar, it proved to be a suitable location to honor the five-year existence of the horror-inspired graphic apparel line. A night beforehand, I headed to his studio with Skiler Love jewelry samples in tow that he would ultimately use to accessorize models for his lookbook shoot and show. Painted graphics covered the walls while Dakoulas pulled T-shirt samples to coordinate with the grunge-inspired necklaces. Right off the bat I knew I was in the studio of an artist passionate about his craft. But there is a huge difference between an artist who loves to design and an artist who designs with a drive – a certain focus that allows them to take projects to another level. Involved in every stage from production to marketing to defining the consumer base, I soon learned I was not only standing in the studio of an artist but also an entrepreneur.

A graphic design graduate, Dakoulas worked as a footwear designer for Converse for five years (landing a job shortly after his internship with the company) creating patches and patterns. He eventually became lead designer of a project that allowed consumers to create their own DC Comics (Batman) shoes. This year Dakoulas made an important decision. He cut ties on his half- decade career with Converse and embarked on a solo adventure which now allows him to work full time on DPM. I caught up 20

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with him a few months after the launch to discuss the ins and outs of running a small business and how exactly transformation came about for this self-motivated twentysomething.

DAVIS: CONGRATS! YOU RECENTLY CELEBRATED THE FIVE-YEAR ANNIVERSARY OF DANCE PARTY MASSACRE. HOW DOES IT FEEL TO BE ABLE TO FOCUS SOLELY ON YOUR BRAND? Dakoulas: It feels natural. It feels like it's what I'm supposed to do.

DAVIS: I CAN IMAGINE THAT THIS ACCOMPLISHMENT HAS BEEN A LONG TIME IN THE MAKING. DID YOU ALWAYS KNOW THAT YOU WANTED TO BUILD YOUR OWN BRAND ONE DAY OR WAS IT MORE OF A GRADUAL DISCOVERY? HOW DID IT ALL START? Dakoulas: It was more gradual for me. I like to see where my interests take me, instead of hatching out a grand plan for the future .When I became invested in graphic design, my interest in T-shirts and creating graphics for them became a focal point. I sold them and they sold well. I entered them into competitions and I won both an Honorable Mention at the Adobe Design Achievement Awards and an All School Show Award from my school (how ironic) during my senior year. It felt great to do my own thing; to tackle something I really believed in. And people were responding to it—including Converse, who offered me a job designing shoes. Once I started receiving positive feedback and people wanting to buy them, I knew the next step was to create a brand with a cohesive concept rather

than just random shirt designs.

DAVIS: WHEN YOU JOINED CONVERSE AS A FOOTWEAR DESIGNER, YOU WERE STRAIGHT OUT OF COLLEGE. WOULD YOU ADVISE A RECENT GRAD TO WORK FOR A CORPORATE COMPANY BEFORE TAKING ON THE CHALLENGE OF STARTING THEIR OWN BRAND? ARE THERE ANY IMPORTANT SKILLS YOU LEARNED WHILE BEING PART OF THE CORPORATE TEAM THAT YOU BELIEVE HELPED SHAPE DPM? Dakoulas: I never planned to get a big corporate job, but I definitely learned a lot being at Converse. From art direction to designs skills to production knowledge, it was very helpful in learning about this type of business-especially being very young and green.

If you can get these experiences at some point, I'd definitely take advantage of it. My opportunity came so early that it's hard for me to say it was the right time though, because when you have a job like that you have to commit to it. And being just out of school I wanted to play around more, do my own thing and have time for personal projects. In some ways I wish I got my job at Converse a few years down the road, so I'd still have personal time to develop my own ideas more.

DAVIS: WHAT PUSHED YOU TO LEAP FROM CORPORATE TO ENTREPRENEUR IN ONLY A COUPLE OF YEARS? Dakoulas: Years later I found myself with as much passion for the brand as I had when I started it. Because of my time commitment to Converse, Dance Party Massacre was just coasting. It garnered substantial attention and sales considering how little time I could put into it, but

I felt dissatisfied that I could never truly devote myself. I started to get that feeling when I was in school all over again: a kind of desperation that comes with feeling stuck because I wasn’t creating what I want to.

After five years of working for someone else, I made the difficult decision to leave my job. I am now working on Dance Party Massacre full-time. This brand is my creative outlet and when I’m working on it, I feel immersed in the kind of life I want to live. To also work on something, see it reach people and know it was your creation—that feeling is like no other. I hope now I can finally give DPM the time and attention it needs to fully grow.

DAVIS: IT’S IMPRESSIVE TO SEE SUCH A YOUNG INDIVIDUAL PURSUE THEIR DREAMS. ASIDE FROM FEEDBACK FROM CUSTOMERS AND FRIENDS, DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS PARTNER OR OTHER EMPLOYEES THAT ARE PART OF DPM TO CONFIDE IN? Dakoulas: I like to refer to Dance Party Massacre as “we” instead of “me,” but in reality this is a one-person company. I created it and run it—of course with a lot of help from friends and other businesses along the way. But who responds to the e-mails? Me. Who ships everything out? Me. Who calls up stores about stocking DPM? Me. Who decides on all art direction and design? Me. DAVIS: THINK BACK ABOUT FIVE YEARS AGO, IF YOU COULD GIVE YOUR 22-YEAR-OLD SELF ONE PIECE OF ADVICE, WHAT WOULD IT BE? Dakoulas: Business-wise: learn more about business, taxes, registration, copyright, etc. It's not my forté and it's very important. Creative-wise, I'd say don't be afraid to 21

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take chances. People take notice to others doing something different and to be different you have to take chances.

DAVIS: UNCERTAINTY IN BUSINESS CAN BE SCARY. WERE THERE ANY TIMES THAT YOU SECOND GUESSED YOUR DECISION TO LEAVE CORPORATE? DID YOU SET ANY FINANCIAL GOALS OR CREATE A FALL-BACK PLAN BEFOREHAND? Dakoulas: It definitely took me a long time to make the decision to branch out, more than a year. I definitely questioned what was best, but at some point you just know what feels right and you make a decision. I definitely saved money and had a fall-back plan when I left Converse, before I made any big decisions. I like to be prepared.

DAVIS: DID YOU/DO YOU HAVE A MENTOR? Dakoulas: I don't necessarily have one person whom I call my mentor, but I definitely look up to people. I find a lot of inspiration and motivation from people around me.

Throughout the years there are just some people whom you meet and strike a connection with. I appreciate that support and it comes from many places.

DAVIS: THERE ARE PLENTY OF BENEFITS TO WORKING FOR YOURSELF: THE FLEXIBILITY, THE ABILITY TO BUILD SOMETHING NEW AND THE FREEDOM TO USE YOUR OWN CREATIVITY. ALL ARE GREAT LURES FOR THOSE WHO LIKE THE CHALLENGE OF AN ENTREPRENEURIAL BUSINESS. WHAT IS YOUR GREATEST MOTIVATION? Dakoulas: The freedom to use my own creativity. I need to have some uninhibited creativity or else I feel a bit trapped. Having something that you own completely and have total control over feels great. Whether it fails or succeeds, it's your own and you gain and learn from it all.

DAVIS: HOWEVER, THE SAME FACTORS THAT ATTRACT PEOPLE TO SELF-EMPLOYMENT CAN ALSO BECOME A BURDEN. AUTONOMY CAN MEAN HAVING NO ONE TO BOUNCE IDEAS OFF. FLEXIBILITY MEANS YOU CAN TAKE TIME OFF DURING THE WEEK, BUT YOU MAY ALSO FIND YOURSELF WORKING THROUGH THE WEEKEND. WHAT HAS BEEN A CHALLENGE YOU HAVE DISCOVERED SO FAR? Dakoulas: I like solely owning something, but not necessarily working alone. I will need to work in a bubble sometimes get into my own thoughts. I've been lucky enough to build personal friendships and professional connections through my work and schooling to have people to ask advice on. I like to allow people into it often enough to get feedback and other people's points of view. That being said, I think the harder part is to give myself breaks.

I definitely fall into the trap of having all the time to do what I want, but then I just fill it working. Stepping away is as important as focusing in.

small breaks to eat or take a breather. There's always something to do running your own business tho, so there's not really any downtime unless you make it.

DAVIS: DO YOU FIND TIME MANAGEMENT A CHALLENGE? ARE THERE ANY RESOURCES THAT YOU HAVE FOUND HELPFUL? Dakoulas: I find it a little challenging. My studio is in my home, so it's easy to get distracted. But I try to write down deadlines and tasks and mark them off when they get done. It keeps me on track.

DAVIS: DO YOU CURRENTLY HAVE ANY EMPLOYEES? DO YOU PLAN TO HIRE ANY IN THE UPCOMING YEARS? Dakoulas: I don't have any full-time employees, but I definitely rely on the skills of others to make Dance Party Massacre bigger than what it is. One man can't do it all, and I've learned my strengths and my weaknesses. I rely on illustrators, photographers, and other talent to help me out when I can't do it all alone. No plans to hire full-time, but I will continue to seek people out when needed. I like that collaborative environment too, as it keeps things fresh.

DAVIS: DPM IS CURRENTLY SOLD ONLINE AND AT SOWA AND OTHER EVENTS. HAVE YOU THOUGHT ABOUT SELLING AT LOCAL SHOPS OR ONE DAY HAVING A STOREFRONT OF YOUR OWN? Dakoulas: I have thought about a storefront, but I think it would be more of a boutique with other products.

We're not big enough yet to fill up a whole store, ha. I am carried in a few brick-and-mortar stores, but I'd love to get into more. That's probably the most challenging part of my business though, getting others to carry your brand. It's something that's sort of out of your control, whereas most other aspects of the line I can control myself. I can't force people to buy and put out space for your product, and being a small brand with no real brand recognition it's tough.

Dakoulas: We did just release a limited-edition collaborative t-shirt with the horror publication, Fangoria Magazine. They are kings in the genre and was so proud to work with them. Plus, the original design we came up with is killer on its own!

I hope you will follow me along for this ride, and maybe take some of that advice into your own life. Like a horror movie it might seem a bit scary, but there’s no better feeling than living life like this is the one chance you get.

DAVIS: WHAT DOES A TYPICAL WORK DAY LOOK LIKE FOR YOU NOW? (HOW IS IT DIFFERENT?) Dakoulas: I'd say the biggest difference is I wake up whenever I want and go to bed whenever I want. Granted, I do try to keep some sense of schedule - that freedom to work all through the night and have the option to take the next day off is great. I sort of found the restrictions of the 9-to-5 workday limiting, because sometimes I would want to work really late, but I would pause often because I knew extra work was wanted in the the corporate environment, but then coming back the next day after 9 is not allowed.

It's not balanced.

My workday is just spent working constantly, taking 23

CULT OF PERSONALI-TEE: TU DUONG BUILT UPON ORIGINALITY AND CONFIDENCE, THE SKINNY BOY SWAG CLUB DESIGNER EXPLAINS WHY ATTITUDE IS KEY. Written by ALISHA MADKINS Photography by NICHOLAS BLACK

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Staring out on the streets of Boston within a coffee shop, I anxiously try to imagine what my interviewee Tu Duong will look like as people shuffle alongside the streets.

With this month’s issue focusing on menswear, I want to cover a distinct gentleman who knows a thing or two about clothing and style. After researching several sites, I finally found one with great personality and creativity: Skinny Boy Swag Club (SBSC). The men’s only website specializes in digitally designed T-shirts with unique and universal sketches. As I type away at unfinished emails, I hear a voice mutter, “Alisha?” I turn and my imagination is put to ease.

Standing before me is a 6’1” Asian man with a peakshort haircut, button-down toggle coat and ankle kicks. As we introduce ourselves, I find he is a Worcester, MA native and recently moved to Boston in 2011. He attended Becker College and Phoenix University with a Business degree and concentration in marketing. I was confused how a business major would be so into fashion, but Tu informed me his childhood had a lot to do with it. “I always try to tap into the right side of my brain as much as I can. Whether it’s introspective soul-search writing or sketching, I just try to embrace that creative side of me.” I smile. I already know the story behind his label is going to be anything but boring.

Now he has me curious, as a business major did he always know he wanted to deal with fashion? So, I ask. He smirks and replies, “My first legit job on paper was at Foot Locker. I was the assistant manager... my love for sneakers and clothes, well that’s where it sort of started.” Placing his elbows on the table, he takes a sip of his latte and begins to tell the story behind his life as a designer.

Growing up people would comment on Tu’s weight.

Through retaliation he created his brand’s tagline Skinny Boy Swag Club. He expresses his concern for society’s perception of sexy and the fact that men feel they have to live up to this buff and broad Brad-Pitt-look-a-like body when they may not naturally have that stature at all. Tu wants to flip that idea and encourage men to embrace being skinny. While the line started with the words “Skinny Boy Swag Club”, Tu is adamant about the concept. “It doesn't matter if you are fat or skinny,” he leans closer, “you can have a sense of style, as long as you are comfortable with who you are.”

So, he created the SBSC tagline to speak to his brand’s concept of embracing individuality. “SBSC started way before the T-shirt hype and fame. It originated back in 2009 as sort of as a joke with an entourage of skinny guys whom belonged to a car group/online cult.” Tu reveals, “At the end of the day, you work hard to define who you are. Whether through your career or hobbies, you are constantly trying to identify yourself. We want people to wear our clothes, invoke a certain emotion, and speak who they are.”

Tu has a passion for helping people speak their mind, and I soon realize why -- his own journey led him here. Tu 25

had a lucrative 9-to-5 office job, but felt he needed more.

This is something we can all relate to. After all, how many of you reading this are at the office before 10 A.M. and can predict your daily workload all the while anticipating your dream job to come along? This is reality for a majority of people, and while Tu wasn't sure of his next step, he was positive he needed to soul search. Working since the age of thirteen, Tu took some time to do what most people dream of: travel the world. So, leaving that cubicle behind, Tu quit his job, hit the slopes in Colorado, then took off on an exploration to visit family in different countries. These adventures gave Tu the inspiration he needed to focus on the one thing he felt mattered: SBSC. After consulting with his family and loved ones, everyone not only supported the idea but encouraged him to pursue his goals. Tu describes how some parents in Asian cultures are more reserved and strict when allowing their children to venture out on individualistic and creative itinerants, but in this case, his family was more than supportive.

Tu proudly announces his father’s encouragement for him to be liberated in finding his own individuality, “He was always pushing me like, do what makes you happy, you know, find a passion in life,” which led him here. Looking back on his 9-to-5, he realizes he wanted to take his father’s advice versus conforming to society’s idealistic pattern. He took a leap of faith and spent this past year getting all the legwork done to build the line.

He belongs to an online community which is filled with people from all walks of life and professional backgrounds.

Sitting across from this stranger no longer than half an hour, I can confirm he has a cool laid back demeanor that can easily hypnotize you into his creative mind. It’s no surprise people gravitate to the introduction of his clothing line, which led to an established collective team: two graphic designers, one artist and himself. One designer is from Australia and into longboarding, another is from North Hampton and has a “very hipster, earthy, ya know, crunchy feel” according to Tu. With a group like this, it’s no wonder the message is what it is: embrace individuality.

So, the line is born but Tu understands he must establish his brand in a saturated market. “What differentiates us

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from a group of college students doing screen print?” he asks then smiles, “We are a lifestyle brand. We want you to embrace yourself. Sure people can get around with placing cool things on shirts, but we try to connect each of our collections with a message and emotion.”

With his wardrobe ranging from an assortment of outfits, it’s hard to define Tu’s style. Whether he likes to keep it casual in a T-shirt and jeans or spruce it up with his love for the UK brands like Topman and ASOS, Tu ensures it all relates to one thing -- individuality.

“I might look ridiculous to other people but you know what, for me I just like to meld everything together. I wouldn't really say I have one particular style, but I like to take different ideas and bring them together,” he states with swag.

This is also true to the site. There is this Jimmy Hendrix tee that is chopped up and really psychedelic. Not to mention a Darth Vader sketch, which Tu describes as “iconic with a modern twist.”

All the pieces are different and original in their own sense, which is why he loves owning the brand. “I love that I can put out a product and someone wants it,” he says with a smile forming as he goes into his next sentence. “I mean I was out in New Hampshire snowboarding and saw someone with my shirt on. It left the hugest smile on my face (pauses) like all day.”

While Tu has his own hobbies, he feels as though people who like this brand are a part of a culture. After all, the label is very involved with music and art. On the site homepage, DJ Rusko (one of the dubstep pioneers) is rocking one of his tees. Turns out one of Tu’s photographers was shooting for their show, and pitched the idea for him to wear SBSC at a concert. The image speaks for itself, but the success doesn't stop there. Mat “Blackbear” Musto (cowriter for Justin Bieber’s “Boyfriend” single) has showcased their attire, along with up-and-coming DJ Ariez Onasis.

To keep his brand thriving, Tu focuses on one gender.

He found that women are attracted to name-brand items versus men who tend to throw on a T-shirt if they think it looks cool. However, Tu realizes more men are catching on to trending ideas and keeping up-to-date with fashion concepts. Ultimately, his website is an outlet for people to express ideas and get lost in an emotional culture. What man wouldn’t love to shop online while listening to great music and reading stimulating yet provocative forums and blogs?

Don’t worry ladies, in the future he plans to have a limited women's edition (I’m talking about possible pink Darth Vader tees.) And as far as long term plans, he’s looking into launching a denim line. Selvedge jeans are perfectly complementary to rocking a SBSC tee! The brand truly has an extroverted vibe that is endlessly engaging with it’s online culture.

With the interview coming to an end, I cannot help but feel as though I connected with the individual across from me. I listened to a stranger talk about success all while battling with life issues. The last question which really piques my curiosity is his advice to up-and-coming entrepreneurs. He shrugs with a grin, “I always tell people to have fun with it. Don't let the business side drive you. If you have a vision stick with it, and the money will come.” He pauses, makes eye contact, and with a strong voice states, “People go into the market and expect a quick return. By some miracle you may become a success over night, if so cool, but if not you have to let it grow and never lose sight of your vision.”

I thank him for his time, and he leaves the coffee shop.

It’s funny how earlier I was anxiously waiting to meet him, and now I sit calmly meditating on the connection we just made. While the interview is over for fifteen minutes, there is one quote I continue to repeat in my head. I think it falls back to his tagline, and can relate to anyone’s life. Here’s something to think about when you feel no one understands who you are. “People are going to judge you regardless of what you do, so do what makes you happy and own it. A lot of people are thinking the same thing but are either scared to speak or not sure how to articulate it. So, that’s the great thing about our brand. Let our clothes or website be a place to speak and evoke your emotions.” Well put Tu, well put.

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MISS-MATCHED Photography by NATALIA SALMINEN Styling by FRANCESCA ADOVASIO Makeup by BUSTER KNIGHT Models ALEX S @ PROFILE MODELS and STEFAN @ OXYGEN MODELS Women's Clothing by XIANFEN GU Men's Clothing by HERA WAN

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THE CHILL Photography by KYNA MARIE @ kynamarie.com Hair by ANDY TSENG Model DAKE @ ford Clothing by NINH NGUYEN @ ninh.co

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MAN-TERVIEW THE ULTIMATE MEN'S SURVEY

Written by LINDSAY ZGONINA Illustration by GRAPHIK H http://graphikh.tumblr.com/

Do you prefer cologne or body spray? A salon or barbershop? Is it okay for a man to get a manicure? This month’s issue is all about men, so who better to turn to for answers than men themselves in a little survey that I like to call, the Men-terview. I recruited a group of guys from all different backgrounds in cities across the country to share some insight on a variety of topics in fashion, grooming, lifestyle and dating—and they held nothing back. Would you consider a steam mop your number one item that you couldn’t live without? One guy did. Or, that creeping on a girl’s social media accounts before you ask her out is okay? Another guy seems to think so. They were even kind enough to share a few secrets for the ladies as well. But not too many. Guy code, you know.

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LET’S MEET THE GENTS: #1: Jordan Grupe Current City: Chicago, IL Age: 27 Occupation: Engineer Personal Style: Earthy and simple.

Describes himself as: “Sports fanatic and outdoorsy.” #2: John W. Day, Jr. Current City: Los Angeles, CA Age: 39 Occupation: Associate Producer Personal Style: Preppy and sporty.

Describes himself as: “Trying to take over the world.” #3: Adrian Morales Current City: Brooklyn, NY Age: As young as they come.

Occupation: Freelance Creative Consultant, Fashion Blogger, Street Style Photographer, Trend Hunter Personal Style: A combination of rock-n-roll, hipster, vintage and modern with a gentleman’s twist.

Describes himself as: “Creative, hardworking, cultural, and artistic–let the good times roll!” #4: Jamal Henderson Current City: Nashville, TN Age: 24 Occupation: Model/Actor/Student Personal Style: Pretty simple, but I like to try out different things. “Occasionally I’ll throw on a fedora with a button-up, skinny-tie and some polo high-top sneaks—get into a hipster kind of zone. Sometimes I feel like throwing on a cardigan and khakis for a preppy look too.”

Describes himself as: "I don’t fit into one box. I’m a sports fan, music lover and being a model I should have some sort of fashion sense, right?” #5: Ryan Johnson Current City: St. Louis Metro Area Age: 29 Occupation: Librarian Personal Style: Wannabe hipster Describes himself as: Music snob, beer snob, baseball geek and D&D dork.

And now, without further ado, let’s get on with the survey!

FASHION WHAT DO YOU THINK OF MODERN-MEN’S FASHION? IS SHOPPING EASY OR DO YOU STRUGGLE TO FIND WHAT YOU WANT? JORDAN: I think tighter clothes are being pushed on men and I don’t find them very comfortable. Also, I have a hard time finding my size in pants. I wear 34/34 jeans and they are always too short, but the 36 length is never available and are mostly still too long. Bring on the 35s!

JOHN: Men’s fashion is a broken record skipping in the digital age. Bring back some color! I’m tired of black and gray.

ADRIAN: It depends on what you are looking for, you know?

JAMAL: Men are embracing the fitted-clothing trend while dressing more uniquely to their personality instead of what’s the “standard”. I don’t think that shopping is an 52

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easy thing. Unlike females, we have a ton of different sizes to memorize and with each specific type of fit of clothing the sizes generally change.

RYAN: Shopping is very easy if you know where to look and know exactly what you want or don’t want. You must go in with a game plan.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE STORE OR BRAND? JORDAN: Timberland, North Face and Banana Republic.

JOHN: Macy’s ADRIAN: Colette, Opening Ceremony and Dover Street Market.

JAMAL: Express RYAN: Goodwill FUNNY, I DON’T THINK ANY OF THOSE PLACES SELL THE HOTTEST NEW MENSWEAR TREND, “MEGGINGS”. LADIES LOVE THEIR LEGGINGS, WHAT ABOUT YOU GUYS? ANY TAKERS? JORDAN: Really? THEY SHOULD NEVER BE ALLOWED! JOHN: They are horrible and uncomfortable.

ADRIAN: If you have good legs, why not?

JAMAL: Not for me. I could only stay in compression shorts long enough to run a race in college. To wear something like that as an outfit would be really constricting.

RYAN: Only if you’re in a play.

YEAH, THEY SHOULD PROBABLY ONLY BE RESERVED FOR FOOTBALL PLAYERS AND ROCK STARS. BUT ONE WOMENSWEARINSPIRED TREND THAT DID GAIN SOME NOTORIETY WAS THE “MURSE”. WOULD YOU USE ONE? JORDAN: I like using a backpack, not a murse.

JOHN: Men use backpacks.

ADRIAN: You mean a man clutch? Yes, but it has to be stylish.

JAMAL: There comes a point when enough is enough. The murse is that point!

RYAN: Only if it’s renamed “European Handbag”.

FORGET CRAZY FASHION TRENDS. LET’S TALK ABOUT WHO GETS IT RIGHT. WHICH CELEBRITY DO YOU THINK HAS GREAT STYLE? JORDAN: I like Matthew McConaughey’s casual style.

JOHN: Michael Caine selects his suits well.

ADRIAN: I love Lenny Kravitz.

JAMAL: Andre 3000 is very unique in his style and not afraid to stand out.

RYAN: Love Tom Brady’s style.

JOHN: Every man should have a shave from a barber and a shoe shine in his lifetime.

ADRIAN: I would if I needed one.

JAMAL: Yes. RYAN: No. WHAT ABOUT HAIRCUTS—ARE YOU A SALON OR BARBERSHOP KIND OF GUY? JORDAN: Salon.

JOHN: Either one is great.

ADRIAN: At the moment, barbershop.

JAMAL: Barbers are the only ones who know how to cut my hair and shave the way I want it.

RYAN: Salon.

COLOGNE OR BODY SPRAY? JORDAN: Cologne.

JOHN: Neither.

ADRIAN: Cologne.

JAMAL: Cologne. Right now it’s Bond 9.

RYAN: Aftershave?

HAVE YOU EVER HAD A MANI/PEDI? BE HONEST, NOW! I MEAN, IT IS CALLED A “MAN”ICURE, AFTER ALL. JORDAN: No. JOHN: Never have, never will.

ADRIAN: Yes, and will continue to do so.

JAMAL: Yes, and I recommend every man take care of his nails.

RYAN: No, but I would.

WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON MAKEUP FOR MEN, I.E. “GUYLINER”, CONCEALER, ETC.?

JORDAN: It’s a don’t.

JOHN: Men do not wear makeup.

ADRIAN: Do it with moderation. You can’t wear more than your partner.

JAMAL: The only time makeup for men is acceptable is during photo and movie shoots.

RYAN: Concealer if necessary.

LIFESTYLE

GROOMING WHETHER YOU PREFER CLEAN-CUT OR SCRUFFY, THE NEW FAD IS EXTREME FACIAL HAIR. DO YOU SEE IT CONTINUING, AND HAVE YOU ADOPTED THIS TREND? JORDAN: Yes, I like it scruffy and I don’t plan on shaving every day.

JOHN: As long as men continue to grow whiskers, the facial hair trend will continue.

ADRIAN: Yes. JAMAL: I love facial hair seeing as how I’ve been told that I look like a 12-year-old without it.

RYAN: It will continue, but only until summer.

YEAH, THOSE BEARDS PROBABLY SMELL IN THE WARMER MONTHS. SPEAKING OF FACIAL HAIR, EVER HAD A SHAVE FROM A BARBER? JORDAN: Yes. 53

WHEN YOU’RE NOT BUSY WITH ALL THE BASIC GROOMING UPKEEP, WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE HOBBIES OR ACTIVITIES? JORDAN: Golf, softball and motorcycle riding.

JOHN: Rugby.

ADRIAN: Traveling and designing.

JAMAL: Basketball and working out are one in the same to me. I hit the gym for hooping sessions at least once a week.

RYAN: Hiking and brewing (beer).

A GUY’S GOT TO KEEP IN SHAPE. DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE HEALTH OR FITNESS PRODUCT? JORDAN: Naked juice and the dips machine.

JOHN: GNC Men’s Sport Vita Pack ADRIAN: Armbands JAMAL: The entire Insanity® DVD set.

RYAN: Vibram Five Fingers shoes.

WORKING OUT AND MUSIC GO HAND-IN-HAND. WHO’S YOUR FAVORITE BAND/MUSICIAN? JORDAN: Linkin Park JOHN: Foo Fighters ADRIAN: The Black Keys and Jack White.

JAMAL: I’m pretty old school. My favorite musician of all time is Michael Jackson and my favorite band is New Edition.

RYAN: It changes frequently, but currently Grouplove. I would also recommend Jay Nash, Rosi Golan and Atlas Genius.

I THINK IT RINGS PRETTY TRUE THAT GUYS LOVE GADGETS. WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE TECH DEVICE? JORDAN: iPhone 5 JOHN: iPhone ADRIAN: Macbook and iTouch JAMAL: Hands down, it’s my Playstation 3.

RYAN: Samsung Galaxy S WOW, I WISH I HAD STOCK IN APPLE! SO, WHAT’S YOUR MOSTFREQUENTED OR FAVORITE APP OR WEBSITE? JORDAN: espn.com JOHN: Facebook is a great way to network.

ADRIAN: colette.fr (Paris), hypebeast.com, nowness.com JAMAL: Instagram is my most visited app (@jayhend11).

Check out MosaicUnion.tumblr.com for good fashion tips and TaboosWithTiff.com for health, fitness and sports.

RYAN: Currently addicted to Twitter.

DO YOU HAVE A GO-TO MEDIA OUTLET FOR NEWS? JORDAN: Fox News and ESPN JOHN: BBC News ADRIAN: The New York Times JAMAL: Twitter, Instagram and Facebook.

RYAN: NPR IN REGARDS TO EVERYTHING THAT WE’VE DISCUSSED THUS FAR, WHAT’S YOUR #1 MUST-HAVE PRODUCT OR ITEM THAT YOU CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT? JORDAN: My smartphone.

JOHN: Boxers.

ADRIAN: My hat.

JAMAL: Being without my phone would lead to a bad day.

RYAN: A steam mop.

ON THE CONTRARY, WHAT ONE THING DO YOU THINK IS TOTALLY OVERRATED? JORDAN: Skinny ties.

JOHN: Vegetarianism.

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ADRIAN: Too many.

JAMAL: The iPhone. I’m sure it’s a great phone, but people talk about it like it’s just the greatest thing in life.

RYAN: Reality shows.

DATING/RELATIONSHIPS WHEN IT COMES TO GETTING THAT FIRST DATE, WHO SHOULD ASK OUT WHOM? JORDAN: Guys should ask girls.

JOHN: Men like being asked out by women, so it’s okay for both.

ADRIAN: The gentlemen. But, hey, love it when a woman takes charge!

JAMAL: There’s absolutely nothing wrong with a girl asking me out. It lets me know that she knows what she wants and isn’t afraid to go after it.

RYAN: There are no rules. Whoever has the interest and the courage.

WHO SHOULD PAY FOR DINNER ON THE FIRST DATE? JORDAN: Guys JOHN: The man should pay for the first date. After that it’s fair game.

ADRIAN: The gent.

JAMAL: Whoever did the asking should pay for the dinner.

RYAN: Guys should always pay.

TRADITIONALISTS, EH? SO, DO YOU OPEN DOORS FOR WOMEN? JORDAN: I do.

JOHN: Chivalry is very much alive. I will always open doors for women.

ADRIAN: Mama taught me manners; so, yes I do.

JAMAL: I open doors for women, write love notes, poems, pull out chairs and pay compliments, etc. That’s how I was raised.

RYAN: Chivalry for its own sake is on life support (and probably never was really that legit). Men only do those things when they want or need to impress someone.

flick comedy.

JOHN: Most men are hooked about 30 minutes into a chick flick.

ADRIAN: Façade. But, then again, it depends on the man.

JAMAL: Deep down I feel some men do like them but just don’t want to admit it because it’s not the “manly” thing to do.

RYAN: It’s a façade.

SOUNDS LIKE A NICHOLAS SPARKS MARATHON ISN’T OUT OF THE QUESTION. GIVE THE LADIES SOME INSIGHT, ARE THERE WOMEN’S FASHION TRENDS THAT YOU LOVE OR HATE? JORDAN: I hate flats. I like skinny jeans and tall boots.

JOHN: Wearing flip-flops with long pants or jeans equals trashy.

ADRIAN: I hate leggings with Uggs, sorry.

JAMAL: I am against the high-waisted jeans trend.

RYAN: I love skinny jeans, assuming the body is appropriate. I hate big purses. They are obnoxious and unnecessary.

SO, COMFORTABLE IS NOT ATTRACTIVE—GOT IT. ONE LAST QUESTION FOR OUR FEMALE READERS. WE KNOW ABOUT THE “DON’T CALL FOR THREE DAYS AFTER A FIRST DATE” RULE. WHAT OTHER “GUY CODE” SECRETS CAN YOU SHARE? JORDAN: Texting has changed this, I believe. A guy can text the next day. And if a guy does call the next day, it just means he’s interested.

JOHN: If you’ve known a guy for more than 24 hours, then his sister is off limits—FOREVER. ADRIAN: Guy code is guy code.

JAMAL: Ladies, if you’re man has a bachelor party, don’t ask what happened. Not him nor his friends. They won’t tell you. It is against the rules to EVER say what goes on at a bachelor party. And that’s Man Law. RYAN: There are plenty of guy codes. One is don’t share any of them with female readers.

Hmmm, is that like the first rule of "Fight Club" is never talk about "Fight Club"? Sorry, ladies. It was worth a shot.

WHAT ABOUT SOCIAL MEDIA IN TERMS OF DATING? IS IT OKAY TO TROLL A GIRL’S FACEBOOK OR TWITTER PAGE TO FIND OUT PERSONAL INFO—OR IF SHE’S A SOCIOPATH? JORDAN: No. But if a guy does it, he shouldn’t talk about it.

JOHN: Yes, that’s why the information is there.

ADRIAN: Nope.

JAMAL: No, it’s not okay. Actually it’s kind of stalker-ish.

RYAN: It’s not okay, but I think we all understand it happens frequently.

IF WE DON’T TALK ABOUT IT, IT’S LIKE IT DOESN’T HAPPEN—IS THAT LYING BY OMISSION? WHAT ABOUT ASKING SOMEONE OUT OR BREAKING UP, CAN YOU DO THAT ONLINE? JORDAN: No. JOHN: Asking someone out, yes. Breaking up with someone, no!

ADRIAN: No, be a man. Do it in person.

JAMAL: It’s okay to ask someone to meet up if you have a good communication going, but if you break up over social media then you just like to attract drama.

RYAN: Asking out, yes. Breaking up, no!

I’M DYING TO KNOW. DO MEN REALLY HATE CHICK FLICKS, OR IS IT ALL JUST A FAÇADE? JORDAN: Façade for the most part. I enjoy a good chick55

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OPEN ROAD Photography by ALVIN NGUYEN Stylist by ALVIN STILLWELL Makeup by TRACY MOYER @ Celestine Model NIC L. and ERIC B @ la models Styling Assistant by SANDY PHAN

THIS SPREAD Shirt by JOHN VARVATOS Shorts by BALLY SUEDE Shoes by OPENING CEREMONY

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THIS PAGE Shirt by LEATHER SHIRT OPPOSITE Sweater by SANDRO Shirt by THOM BROWNE Shorts by BALLY LEATHER Shoes by O'HANLON MILLS

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OPPOSITE Jacket by TOPMAN Shirt by THOMAS PINK Trousers by RAG AND BONE Shoes by GENERIC SURPLUS Sweater by SANDRO Trousers by THOM BROWNE Shoes by DUCKY DROWN FOR FLORSHEIM THIS PAGE Floral Tee by TOPMAN Button Down by TOPMAN Red Vest by CLUB MONACO Jeans by ACNE Watch by SHANGHAI TANG WATCH

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THIS SPREAD Sweater by SANDRO Trousers by THOM BROWNE Shoes by DUCKY BROWN FOR TLORSHEIM

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THIS PAGE Shirt and Vest by TEB BAKER Tie by PENGUIN Jacket by TOPMAN Trousers by PAUL AND JOE Hat by VINTAGE OPPOSITE Jacket and Shorts by MARC JACOBS Shirt by CLUB MONACO Watch by MICHAEL GRAVES

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GENTLEMAN'S CLUB Photography by AGATA MAYER @ agatamayer.com Stylist by WOJCIECH SZYMANSKI Hair by ADRIAN ANTCZAK Makeup by ANGELIKA TROSTOWIECKA Model GREGORY @ magteam models Photographer's Assistant TOMAS MAYER The Great Dane KOLENDRA Clothing by OSCAR JACOBSON BRAND

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GETTING HIGH ON HIGHLAND THE NEW MENSWEAR BRAND IS THE PERFECT WARDROBE PICK-ME-UP. Interview by JESSICA YOUNG

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It’s not everyday I get excited over a menswear brand because, well, being a woman I’m more easily intrigued by clothes I can interpret for my own personal styling obsessions. However, when checking out their SS 2013 line and editorial-y lookbook, it is impossible not to get drawn into the Highland world starring today’s River Phoenixtype (um, no objection to this resurrection). With the brand already available at cool-kid stores like Opening Ceremony, it’s ultimately functional yet irreverent take on retro influences makes the contemporary line an easy fashion fix to get addicted to. I caught up with designer Lizzie Owen to divulge her experience creating Highland and both the man-muses and aprons (!) that go along with it.

JESSICA: YOU USED TO BE A COSTUME DESIGNER FOR THE LIKES OF MGMT AND THE KILLERS WITH QUITE THE EYE FOR THEATRICS. HOW DOES YOUR PAST EXPERIENCE INFORM YOUR WORK DESIGNING A CONTEMPORARY LINE, WHICH HAS A BASIS OF COMMERCIALITY? Lizzie: It was certainly a lot of fun working with a group of creatives that didn’t necessarily have to adhere to what is considered “commercial” in the traditional sense of the word. My biggest takeaway from costuming was how to successfully create a personality within a story. The character study process has now become essential for me. I used it when starting the line to define our customer and I continue to use it each season to get further into the head of the Highland guy.

JESSICA: HAVE YOU ALWAYS WANTED TO DESIGN MENSWEAR? OR, IS IT A NATURAL PROGRESSION FROM COSTUME DESIGNING FOR MOSTLY-MALE BANDS? WHAT PROMPTED THE TRANSITION? Lizzie: My desire to design menswear evolved from working so intimately with guys in bands like MGMT or Cool Kids. I saw how these boys felt pressure to constantly look new and stylish but at the same time how important it was for them to be themselves and feel comfortable enough to perform well; a sentiment, come to find out, shared by most guys I know. I was intrigued by the challenge of designing a product that was familiar but new. The familiar had been well represented by that time with the overwhelming resurgence of American heritage brands, but the new was needed and I felt confident Highland could add this.

JESSICA: IT’S OFTEN NOTED THAT MEN DESIGNING WOMENSWEAR DESIGN WITH THE IDEA OF MAKING WOMEN BEAUTIFUL WHILE CELEBRATING THEIR FEMININITY. WHAT APPROACH DO YOU TAKE WHEN DESIGNING MENSWEAR? DO YOU DESIGN FROM A FEMALE PERSPECTIVE OR ATTEMPT TO TAKE ON A MALE PERSPECTIVE? Lizzie: I’d say my perspective is female in the same regard you describe above: I want the Highland man to look handsome and to celebrate his masculinity.

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HIGHLAND DESIGN TEAM: CRAMER TOLBOE, LIZZIE OWEN, MIKE FRANKS

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JESSICA: MANY TIMES MUSES ARE A FOCAL POINT FOR A COLLECTION OR BRAND. DO YOU HAVE A MUSE? DO YOU HAVE A MALE IDEAL THAT YOU’RE DESIGNING FOR? Lizzie: We don’t have any one muse, but early ‘90s River Phoenix comes pretty damn close. We design for that individual that has the freedom to be his uninhibited self.

An independent, self-aware man that values creativity – that wanderer in all of us. It’s more about transmitting a very specific lifestyle but there’s always those once-in-alifetime personalities, like River, who truly represent what we’re all about.

JESSICA: IS YOUR MUSE A FIXED IDEAL THAT SERVES AS DNA FOR THE BRAND? OR, IS IT CONSTANTLY EVOLVING OVER TIME? Lizzie: He pretty much embodies the Highland guy.

He's a California boy by way of the east coast. He is laid back but capable of keeping up in the city. He's also a master craftsman and builds all kinds of things out of wood but he isn't materialistic. He spends a lot of time outdoors but also in a windowless recording studio. His lifestyle requires that delicate balance of practicality and risk—the kind of harmony I strive for with every collection.

JESSICA: YOUR COLLECTIONS FOR HIGHLAND ARE HEAVY ON THE ‘80S AND ‘90S INFLUENCES, WHICH HAVE RECENTLY EXPERIENCED RESURGENCE IN FASHION. DO YOU SEE YOURSELF CONTINUING THESE REFERENCES OR ARE THERE ANY NEW INSPIRATIONS ON THE HORIZON? Lizzie: The ‘80s and ‘90s will always play a role in Highland's collections because Highland is a product of that generation - it forms an integral part of our DNA (literally if you believe we are a product of our environment). That's not to say however, the only influential touchstone Highland references, we will always have some way of twisting the familiar with the new.

JESSICA: BEING A WOMAN DESIGNING MENSWEAR (CONSIDERING THIS HAPPENS AT LESS FREQUENCY THAN MEN DESIGNING MENSWEAR OR MEN DESIGNING WOMENSWEAR), DO YOU FACE ANY INDUSTRY CHALLENGES? Lizzie: I don’t feel restrained by industry challenges, if anything that point of difference makes us stronger and unique in an interesting way. Being a woman designing menswear sets our perspective apart.

JESSICA: ALTHOUGH YOU’RE THE LEAD DESIGNER, HOW DOES MIKE FRANKS AND CRAMER TOLBOE CONTRIBUTE TO THE CREATIVE PROCESS? WHAT ARE THEIR ROLES? Lizzie: We are all partners and it takes all our input to define exactly what Highland is. We are a small company and therefore don’t have a choice but to do a little bit of everything. It takes a minimum of three people to work endlessly on three overlapping collections: simultaneously supporting the collection in stores, overseeing the collection being produced, and developing the new collection being taken to market (all of which culminate on the same calendar date). Effective communication is the key to our success. They help me execute ideas by asking questions I'd never think to ask myself, it's a very helpful perspective to have access to internally.

JESSICA: SINCE THE DIGITAL REVOLUTION’S OFFERED TECHNOLOGICALLY NEW MEANS OF LEARNING ABOUT AND CONSUMING FASHION, IT’S NO SECRET THAT MENSWEAR IS EXPLODING AND THERE’S TONS OF OPPORTUNITY IN THE MENSWEAR MARKET SINCE MEN ARE BECOMING MORE 83

INTERESTED IN AND WILLING TO SHOP FOR THEMSELVES. HAS THIS INDUSTRY SHIFT INFORMED YOUR DECISION TO BE A MENSWEAR DESIGNER? HOW DO YOU CATER TO THE CHANGES IN MALE-SPECIFIC CONSUMER BEHAVIOR? Lizzie: There wasn’t an industry shift that affected my decision to be a menswear designer, man I wish I felt that shift! Hah! Highland started because there was something missing for guys out there. Highland feels both familiar and cool to our customer. Our goal is to refine our aesthetic season after season to continue to develop new fresh ideas not to cater to changes in consumer behavior. If we stick to our goal, our customer will continue to evolve with us.

JESSICA: WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE PIECES FROM SPRING 2013 AND WHY? ALSO, WHAT’S UP WITH THE APRONS? HOW DO YOU SEE THE EVERYDAY MAN INCORPORATING THIS INTO HIS WARDROBE? Lizzie: We’re really proud of the whole collection, but if I had to pick my favorite pieces it would have to be the knits and the bomber. We’ve always felt like our knits are very strong, but this season’s color palette and shape really resonates with our audience; even the female Highland followers. The bomber just looks good on any guy that tries it. It’s always hard to pick out styles. It makes me feel like a parent choosing a favorite child.

As for the aprons, the Highland man is crafty (and quite messy at times), we wouldn't want him ruining his $300 pants while uninhibitedly cooking a new recipe. In fact, it'd be inefficient to even expect him to wash his pants just because he decided to be a little haphazard.

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CHAIN-MALE Photography by SAMANTHA NANDEZ Stylist by MINNA ATTALA Hair and Makeup by LIVE LUNDELIUS Model LEVI @ the show space management

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NICK CAVE'S SOUNDSUITS HIGH-FASHION MEETS PERFORMANCE ART

Photography by JAMES PRINZ PHOTOGRAPHY courtesy of the artist and jack shainman gallery, new york

High-fashion meets performance art with Nick Cave’s Soundsuits. Chicago-based artist Cave has created whimsical and ornate wearable art for over a decade.

Inspired by African and Christian rituals, these suits are designed with movement in mind – allowing the suit to dictate expression. Here is a sampling of some of the latest works by Nick Cave:

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THORNED Photography by JACKELINE MOLLER @ chipil.com Model ANGEL GUTIERREZ @ tb models Styling & Clothing by ALEJANDRO CALDERON

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