THE DISCERNING DINER

Claudia Blake visits The Fleece Hotel in Richmond

n a town that’s famous for its

Georgian architecture, The Fleece is unapologetically different.

Thumbing its nose at its elegantly understated neighbours, the hotel is a riot of fairytale turrets, oriel windows, crenellations and faux-medieval detailing. The design was decidedly controversial when it was built in the 1890s; nowadays it’s revered as one of North Yorkshire’s most extravagant examples of the Victorian Gothic style.

Inside, The Fleece has the lofty, spacious rooms typical of its era. The dining areas have been decorated to achieve a stylish, contemporary feel that shuns Victorian fussiness whilst remaining in sympathy with the quirky grandeur of the building itself. Muted blue paintwork, pale wood tables, a stone-tiled floor and quirky modern light fixtures create a cool, relaxing ambiance.

SALAD DAYS

We visited The Fleece for Sunday lunch, but whilst most fellow diners were tucking into generous portions of beef, pork or chicken with all the traditional accompaniments, we decided to try out some of the more adventurous, less obviously Sunday-centric offerings.

The first of our brace of starters, a warm salad of smoked duck, peas, broad beans and Jersey Royal potatoes, convinced us that Chef – who serves from an open kitchen between the bar and the restaurant – knows what he is doing and is determined to make his mark.

The smoked duck itself was delicious, but it was the attention to detail that had been expended on the other elements of the salad that particularly impressed us. The vegetables had been immaculately prepped: broad beans had been peeled, shallots and peppers were finely minced and radishes reduced to wafer-thin, red rimmed disks. The result was a riot of colour that tasted as zingy and vibrant as it looked, boosted by a lovely sharp dressing and a scattering of cumin seeds. Our other starter, a double-baked cheese and spinach soufflé, offered less scope for presentational oomph but nonetheless packed masses of flavour – in fact it was one of the best soufflés I’ve had for some while. Made with a fearsomely tasty aged Cheddar, it sported a smart, crispy brown top and was set in a moat of supremely creamy sauce. Without the addition of spinach it might well have been too rich even for my self-indulgent palate.

GOAT’S STORY

On to mains, and a wild mushroom, leek and goat’s cheese risotto topped with a soft-poached egg. I felt the risotto itself could have been a touch lighter – and the rice a little more al dente – but the flavours were bang on. The goat’s cheese and leeks announced their presence boldly and the mushrooms had kept their individual texture and character. I don’t believe I’ve ever had nigella seeds sprinkled on a risotto before, but they certainly added extra jollity – well done Chef for trying something a bit off-piste.

Like the risotto, our other main – lamb and black pudding shepherd’s pie with creamed cabbage and bacon – was a cosy, comforting plateful of grub. The black pudding added richness, spiciness and an interesting point of difference to a traditional favourite, and the creamy mélange of cabbage and smoky bacon was totally in keeping as an accompaniment to this hearty Sunday lunchtime option.

As for desserts, our sticky ginger pudding with pineapple, butterscotch sauce and clotted ice cream was – as the name suggests – a kissing cousin of sticky toffee pudding. The large, juicy slab of pineapple set on a dusting of ginger biscuit crumbs was a refreshing addition to the plate, and the pudding itself was winningly light. Personally I would have dialled the ginger content up a notch or two.

Our chocolate and amaretto mousse cake, with its exuberant decorative chocolate shard, was a delightfully rich indulgence, but for me it was the nugget of smooth, ethereal tonka bean ice cream that stole the show. Tonka bean – which, if you haven’t tried it, tastes like a heady mixture of vanilla and air freshener – is an ingredient I adore but which seldom appears on menus nowadays. It partnered the chocolatey vibe of the rest of the dish perfectly.

At £28 per head for three splendid courses, The Fleece represents excellent value if you’re looking for a lunch that pushes gently at the culinary boundaries without alienating diners with more traditional tastes. It’s a very welcome addition to the culinary scene in a town whose other dining options are mostly underwhelming. I look forward to visiting again soon to find out what else Chef and his team have got up their starched white sleeves. For more information about The Fleece Hotel visit thefleeceyorkshire.co.uk or call 01748 503104. WHAT TO EXPECT

Scrumptious, meticulously cooked and boldly presented dishes, from a team that evidently cares about good food.

ATMOSPHERE

Unexpectedly calm, reflective haven set in a neo-Gothic extravaganza.

SERVICE

Friendly, prompt, professional and unobtrusive.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Three courses from the Sunday lunch menu currently cost £28 per head. Alternately you can choose one course for £16.50 or two for £23.

DOWN THE HATCH

A good selection of wines by the glass, with prices starting at £3.75 for 125ml. We enjoyed a refreshing glass of Chilean Blanc Pacifico Sur (£4.75/£6.50/£8.25 for 125ml/175ml/250ml).

CHOICES, CHOICES…

The Fleece also serves lunches and an à la carte evening menu from Thursday to Saturday.

THE LONG VIEW

Take a stroll round Richmond’s panoramic Castle Walk to work off some of those recently acquired calories.

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