Dales Life Winter 2024

Wild about Woodpeckers

James Martin, Paul Ainsworth

Matt Tebbutt

award

winning

Chartwell

restaurant

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Winter

There’s

Adam

Claudia Blake visits Forresters Bar & Restaurant, Middleton-in-Teesdale.

Behind the scenes at Campbell’s of Leyburn wine department.

Wild mallard is both delicious and sustainable, says Chris O'Callaghan, the executive head chef at Aldwark Manor Estate.

A glazed ham studded with cloves is a joy for the festive season. EatTELFIT’s recipe is a twist on tradition.

James Martin hails cheese as the most flavoursome ingredient in the world. Here he shares some of his favourite dishes.

88

106

40

72

FOR THE LOVE OF FOOD

Comforting classics are the key to a truly flavourful life, says Paul Ainsworth.

80

PERFECT PAIRINGS

Fiona Beckett is an award-winning food and wine writer. Her speciality is pairing dishes with delicious wines.

88

PUB GRUB

Chef and TV presenter Matt Tebbutt knows a thing or two about cooking for hungry customers. These recipes are bursting with flavour.

96

BUY THE BOOK

Recommendations from The Wonky Tree Bookshop in Leyburn.

102

COLLECTED WORKS

EDITOR AND PROPRIETOR Sue Gillman

DEPUTY EDITOR Brian Pike

ART EDITOR Stefan Suchomski

PROOF READER Dianne Battersby

CONTRIBUTORS Paul Ainsworth, Adam Appleyard, Fiona Beckett, Malin Björkholm, Claudia Blake, Eat Telfit, Liz Hanson, James Martin, Chris O’Callaghan, Brian Pike, Matt Tebbutt, Tennants of Leyburn, The Wonky Tree, Yorkshire Dales Wildlife Trust.

Dales Life m. 07970 739119 e. sue@daleslife.com www.daleslife.com

Opinions or statements expressed in this magazine are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Dales Life.

106

Art Deco jewellery remains popular for several reasons, says Jessica Fall of Tennants Auctioneers.

GREAT ESCAPES

Some great destinations brimming with culture, perfect for a short break.

112

DALES DIARY

A guide to local events compiled by Liz Hanson.

127

TO DINE FOR

Great places to eat and stay in the Dales.

Discover Perfection

We offer a contemporary tasting menu experience, combining only the finest produce from the land, earth & sea into a purposefully designed epicurean adventure of luxury & provenance.

New complimentary service, up to 15 miles. We now offer a drop-off service if you dine on the tasting menu with wine pairing. To book please call 07938 708604 or email info@hansomrestaurant.co.uk

Bookings are now live.

7-9 North End, Bedale, DL8 1AF | hansomrestaurant.co.uk

Welcome

Despite what some people might think, winter is one of the best times of year to enjoy the local wildlife. Woodpeckers are strikingly handsome but secretive birds. During a cold snap, though, they may well visit your bird feeder. And on a late winter’s morning you can often hear the magical sound of their machine-gun drumming echoing across the fields, as Brian Pike reports on page 19. If you want to know what other wildlife to look out for here in the Dales this winter, Amy Cooper of Yorkshire Wildlife Trust has tips for you on page 24.

Also in this issue we have a bumper selection of recipes from top chefs, including Fiona Beckett, Paul Ainsworth, Matt Tebbutt and Yorkshire-born James Martin. And if you fancy making a beautiful glazed ham this Christmas, on page 64 we’ve got an easy recipe with a tasty twist from EatTelfit.

Winter in the Dales can be terrific fun, but booking a break abroad is an ideal way to cheer yourself up if you’re prone to the winter blues. Turn to page 106 for some ideas about destinations you may not have considered.

Finally I would like to thank all our advertisers for their generous support during the past year. Without them we would not be able to bring such a top-quality free publication to the Dales, so please don’t forget to mention Dales Life when you respond to advertisements that you see in the magazine.

We’ll be back early next spring with another colourful and inspiration-packed issue, but until then here’s wishing you a happy Christmas and all the very best for the new year!

Flowers for the discerning.

Flowers, houseplants, gifts and homewares

Eco orist, cellophane-free, proud to support local British ower growers.

Newstead’s, High Street, Leyburn, DL8 5AQ. Telephone 01969 368006 info@rosemaryandtwine.co.uk www.rosemaryandtwine.co.uk

Original artwork for nature-inspired lifestyles

Rachel Derbyshire creates beautiful homewares, wildlife prints, and pet portraits that make life that little bit more lovely. All of Rachel’s creations are sketched from her studio on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales.

Homewares and Stationery

Beautifully crafted pieces, including gift wrap, cards, aprons, mugs and prints.

Pet Portraits and Wildlife Commissions

Capture your beloved pet with original custom artwork.

Online Art Course

A mini-course to learn skills to create your own wildlife artwork. visit rachelgrace.art

1. Wrendale Christmas mug and bauble, Dovetail Interiors, Bedale, dovetailinteriors.co.uk 2. Hand-made Christmas fairy by Halinka at halinkasfairies.com

3. Holly wreath from a selection at Mainsgill Farm Shop, mainsgillfarm.co.uk

4. Robin and Mistletoe napkins, Dovetail Interiors, Bedale, dovetailinteriors.co.uk

Gold playful hares table lamp, clickstyle.co.uk

Christmas cracker from a range at Mainsgill Farm Shop, mainsgillfarm.co.uk

1. Christmas Joy pottery by Emma Bridgewater, Mainsgill Farm Shop, mainsgillfarm.co.uk 2. Whisky barrel lid coffee table, Spatchcock & Wurzill, Ripon, spatchcockandwurzill.com

Champagne-gold stag salad servers, athomeinthecountry.co.uk

4. Inspiritus Wonderland Candle from a range at Dovetail Interiors, Bedale, dovetailinteriors.co.uk 5. Christmas rocking horse ornament from a selection at Mainsgill Farm Shop, mainsgillfarm.co.uk

Strawberry Thief cushion by Morris and Co. at Dovetail Interiors, Bedale, dovetailinteriors.co.uk

Zadie fabric by Jane Churchill, Milners of Leyburn, milnersofleyburn.co.uk

Distressed gold leaf pendant light, darlighting.co.uk

Willow tapestry cushion by Morris & Co., Dovetail Interiors, Bedale, dovetailinteriors.co.uk

Hand-painted hare bone china mug by Rachel Grace, rachelgrace.art

s i m p l y b e d s good night, great morning ®

A T r u e F a m i l y B u s i n e s s

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LIFE STYLE

inspiring ideas for your home

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Knock on Wood

Winter is the ideal time to look out for woodpeckers – and hear them too – says Brian Pike

Great spotted woodpecker

oodpeckers are some of our most spectacular native birds, but they are notoriously shy and secretive. For most of the year they keep themselves to themselves.

In winter, though, especially during a cold snap, woodpeckers are often lured to garden bird feeders by the prospect of feasting on peanuts and suet balls. But even if you’re not lucky enough to have them visit, there’s a good chance you’ll be aware of their presence if you take a stroll in the Dales on a sunny February morning. The sound of a woodpecker’s machine-gun drumming echoing across the frosty fields is a truly magical experience – and a welcome reminder that spring is just around the corner.

HEAD BANGER

The species you’re most likely to see or hear is the great spotted woodpecker. If one happens to pitch up at your bird feeder, its vivid plumage –a jazzy combination of jet black, snow white and pillar-box red – is sure to attract your attention.

The great spotted woodpecker is about the size of a blackbird. Like all three of our British native species, it has a powerful beak, strong feet and claws that are perfectly designed for clinging to tree trunks, and a distinctive bobbing flight pattern. Its preferred habitat is mature broadleaved woodland, but it can also be found in mixed woodland, pine plantations, parks and gardens.

With the exception of those winter visits to the bird table, insects form the bulk of the great spotted woodpecker’s diet. It chips holes in tree bark with its sharply pointed beak, then uses its long, sticky tongue to extract the beetle larvae lurking underneath. It will also take other insects and, occasionally, the eggs and chicks of smaller birds.

But the rapid rat-tat-tat drum rolls that you hear from late winter through to mid-spring aren’t the sound of the great spotted woodpecker hunting for food. They are the equivalent of the songs sung by other birds, that’s to say announcements to the effect of ‘This is my territory, and I’m looking for a mate.’

Both males and females drum, and they choose their drumming spots carefully, usually opting for a dead branch or hollow trunk so as to create as loud a racket as possible. If they can’t find a tree to their liking, they sometimes resort to drumming on guttering, downpipes and other manmade structures. To protect their brains from the potentially damaging vibrations caused by all this manic percussion, their heads and necks have a number of special adaptations which act as shock absorbers.

Great spotted woodpeckers chisel neat, round nesting holes in trees. Females lay four to six eggs in late March or April, and these hatch within a fortnight. After a further three weeks, the chicks are capable of leaving the nest. Their parents then look after them for a further fortnight until they can fend for themselves.

ANT EATER

Also to be seen in the Dales, albeit less frequently, the green woodpecker is a very different bird. For one thing it’s noticeably larger than the great spotted woodpecker, being more the size of a pigeon than a blackbird. For another, it’s kitted out in a completely different colour scheme: a black ‘mask’, a bright red cap, olive-green wings, a yellow rump and pale greygreen underparts.

As well as looking different, the green woodpecker leads a very different life. It feeds almost exclusively on ants, which it laps up with its sticky tongue, and consequently spends much of its time foraging in closely grazed or mown grassland. Rather than being a predominantly woodland bird, it prefers a mixed landscape of open fields and small copses. Top

the green woodpecker leads a very different life

the lesser spotted woodpecker also drums, but slightly more quietly

What’s more, the green woodpecker very seldom drums – and on the few occasions that it does, the result is far less impressive than the thunderous performance of the great spotted woodpecker. Rather than drumming, the green woodpecker communicates with a distinctive call that bird enthusiasts often describe as ‘laughing’: a series of tightly grouped, highpitched squeaks.

Like the great spotted woodpecker, the green woodpecker nests in a hole that it has excavated in a tree, usually an oak, beech or willow.

A DIFFERENT DRUMMER

There is a third species of woodpecker that’s native to the UK, the lesser spotted woodpecker, but you’ll be lucky if you spot one in the Dales as they are seldom seen much further north than Wakefield.

It’s worth keeping a weather eye open nonetheless. The lesser spotted woodpecker is decked out in much the same black, white and red livery as the great spotted woodpecker, but it is a lot smaller – more the size of a sparrow than a blackbird.

Like its larger lookalike, the lesser spotted woodpecker also drums, but slightly more quietly –not surprising given its diminutive size.

The lesser spotted woodpecker may well be underrecorded due to the fact that it spends so much of its time hidden high in the treetops. Unfortunately, though, the UK population appears to be in steep decline. Quite likely this is due to the fact that, nowadays, dead and decaying trees are promptly ‘tidied up’ by landowners, depriving this tiny, gemlike bird of its preferred feeding and nesting sites.

Left Great spotted woodpecker

Right Lesser spotted woodpecker leaving nest

This page

Brown hare ©Cristi Savin Opposite clockwise from top left Black grouse ©Margaret Holland, Red squirrel ©Margaret Holland, Goldfinch ©Elliott Neep, Little owl ©Conrad Owen

A Wild Winter

There’s a wealth of wildlife to be seen in the Dales at this time of year, says Amy Cooper of Yorkshire Wildlife Trust

inter is a far better time for wildlife watching than you might think.

The trees are bare, and some of our native species are hibernating, but not everything is asleep. Wrap up well and take a countryside stroll – you’ll find that there’s plenty going on in the Dales, however cold the weather. Here are some highlights to look out for.

Winging it

Finches and winter thrushes often form large flocks at this time of year to improve their chances of finding food. A wander through woodland might find you surrounded by blue tits, great tits, coal tits, long-tailed tits, goldcrests, wrens or chaffinches. Or maybe you’ll see a flock of siskins, lesser redpolls or goldfinches, all hungrily diving and feeding in one small area.

Look out for less common species amongst the crowd. Treecreepers, woodpeckers, marsh tits and even the occasional firecrest can sometimes be spotted taking advantage of the feast.

Ramble across the frosty fields and you may well spot buntings and linnets foraging in the weak winter sunlight, perhaps accompanied by redwings and fieldfares. Or perhaps you’ll glimpse a quicklyretreating brown hare. Brown hares are most common on open farmland, in grassland and at woodland edges. They have instantly recognisable long, erect ears with black tips, and piercing orange eyes. Normally shy and retiring, hares are famous for their March ‘boxing’ contests. They are also amazing sprinters, reaching speeds of up to 35mph over short distances.

Like hares, stoats are easier to see in winter than amidst summer’s rampant vegetation. They are easily mistaken for weasels but are much larger: 30cm or more nose-to-tail. Although they have the same colouring as weasels, stoats have longer tails, which always have black ‘paint brush’ tips.

Stoats can be active during the day, particularly when hunting for rabbits and voles. They are feisty creatures and will stalk and kill animals three times their size.

They are found in a wide range of habitats but, like weasels, they love old drystone walls and mounds of rocks, which provide good cover for them and their prey.

It’s a hoot

Owls are easiest to spot at dawn and dusk, although they are more often heard than seen. Many readers who live near a particularly large old tree will be familiar with the talkative call of a tawny owl. An early morning or late evening ramble through farmland might be interrupted by the eerie call of a barn owl or – more rarely, and deeper into the Dales – the mewling call of a little owl. Yorkshire is a nationally significant county for owls, with 16% of Britain’s breeding barn owl population and 15% of our breeding little owl population.

Clockwise from left Weasel, Little owl ©J. Trail, Goldfinch ©Fergus Gill, Stoat ©Mike Ashford, Snow bunting ©Derek Moor

Snow buntings are sparrow-sized birds that breed further north than any other small bird in the world, preferring the arctic conditions of Canada and Scandinavia. They build their nests in rock crevices on mountain slopes or rocky shores, and UK residents are mainly found on the coast or in Scotland, so the small population that can be found near the summit of Ingleborough is very unusual indeed. When they fly, snow buntings look black and white, with white patches on the wings and black wingtips. When they walk, they often crouch a little so that their feathers cover part of their legs – an adaptation to prevent heat loss.

The black grouse is famed for its display behaviour, called ‘lekking’, during which the male fans out his tail and flashes his iridescent feathers to show dominance. Black grouse are on the Red List of conservation concern. They used to be widespread throughout the Dales, and small populations are still found along moorland edges.

Management work to improve their habitat has been hampered by wet weather during the main chick hatching period and heavy snow during winter.

Red squirrels are still a relatively uncommon sight in the Yorkshire Dales, but a small population is starting to make a comeback near Hawes. Their smaller frame, ear tufts and distinctive russet colour make them easy to distinguish from their grey squirrel cousins. They are often, although not always, found in conifer woodland. Red squirrels do not hibernate, but they do keep stores of food to see them through difficult times when fresh food is not available.

Where to wander

If you’re keen to connect with nature this winter, why not visit a nature reserve? Yorkshire Wildlife Trust looks after an incredible variety of wild places in the Dales. Seven nature reserves are clustered around Ingleborough, ranging from the fantastic limestone pavement of Southerscales – a great place to spot birds of prey – to Ashes Pasture and Ashes Shaw with their views over the rolling drumlins.

For those who love lakeside views, a wander along the shore of Semer Water is an ideal opportunity to watch breeding and overwintering birds, whilst those who enjoy a woodland walk will enjoy a trip to Grass Wood, one of the largest areas of broadleaved woodland in the Dales.

For more information about Yorkshire Wildlife Trust, visit ywt.org.uk

This page Mossy saxifrage Saxifraga x arendsii

Opposite clockwise from top left Saxifrage moss in spring garden, Saxifraga urbium ‘London pride’, pot with mossy saxifrage flowers in white, Saxifraga x arendsii ‘Schneeteppich’

Sax Appeal

Saxifrages can cheer up your garden all year round, says Adam Appleyard

GARDENING

o Dales garden should be without a saxifrage or two. They may sit low to the ground, but saxifrages reliably produce huge masses of flowers, so they’re just the thing to bring colour to a vacant corner or soften the edge of a border.

What’s more, you can find one to suit pretty much any garden soil or situation, from damp shade to a sun-drenched rockery. So whatever spot you’re looking to fill, there’s a saxifrage that can do the job.

Most of the saxifrages I’ll discuss here are superhardy – quite capable of surviving a northern winter – and have rosettes of evergreen leaves that look chipper all year round. Better still, some of them start flowering in spring, long before most garden plants have got into their stride, celebrating the end of winter by producing clouds of delicate flowers, held aloft on thin, wiry stalks.

In what follows I’ll flag up some of my favourites. That said, it’s well worth checking out your local independent nursery or garden centre for other options because there are many dozens of different saxifrages to choose between. In specialist nurseries you may come across one or two alpine saxifrages that require special protection from winter wet, but the species I’ll deal with here will do well in the average garden without needing any special attention.

MOSSY MARVEL

A typical evergreen, spring-flowering saxifrage that’s easily sourced from any good nursery or garden centre is Saxifraga x arendsii, a hybrid generally known as mossy saxifrage.

Mossy saxifrage has small rosettes of bright green leaves that gently spread to form a dense mat or cushion of foliage some 10cm high. From early spring through until midsummer it bears a dense mass of delicate five-petalled flowers – deep red, pink, purple or white, depending on which of the numerous cultivars you choose.

Plant mossy saxifrage in full sun or part shade, in average soil that is moist but not prone to waterlogging. For drier, more sharply drained spots on neutral to acid soil Saxifraga bryoides would be a better bet. It has white flowers, and blooms from July to August.

Want a great all-rounder? Saxifraga x urbium, also known as London pride, is a cottage garden favourite that gardeners prize for its ability to grow in dry, shady spots where little else survives – although, that said, it will be happy pretty much anywhere in the garden.

London pride forms neat rosettes of delicately scalloped, evergreen spoon-shaped leaves and sends up a haze of pale pink flowers on tall, deep pink stems from May through to July. For added year-round eye-appeal, the cultivar ‘Variegata’ has leaves that are liberally splashed with patches of lemon yellow.

Saxifraga umbrosa is similar to Saxifraga x urbium but has white flowers carried on green stems.

Saxifraga dentata (also known as Saxifraga x geum ‘Dentata’) is a little like London pride but has paler flowers and very handsome sharply toothed leaves. Even when it’s not in flower, the jazzy leaves attract admiring interest – it’s one of the plants in my garden that visitors most often enquire about.

Above Saxifraga orientalis

Right Saxifraga fortunei

No

Dales garden should be without a saxifrage or two

GARDENING

PERKY PETALS

The saxifrages we’ve looked at so far all have flowers consisting of five equally-sized, rounded petals. However, there are other saxifrages, such as Saxifraga fortunei, whose flowers have a distinctly different look, with short upper petals and long, pointy lower petals.

Saxifraga fortunei, like London pride, is happy to grow in part or even deep shade, but it requires a little more moisture than its cousin, so if you want to plant it somewhere that’s a little on the dry side, dig in some well-rotted compost, leaf mould or composted bark to improve the water-retentiveness of the soil.

Saxifraga fortunei produces handsome sprays of flowers, usually white, on red or pinkish stems. Its rich green leaves are suffused with a deep crimson tint, especially those of the gorgeous cultivar ‘Rubrifolia’. These leaves may die back for a short while if winter is harsh, but new ones will pop up to replace them early in the new year.

Finally, here’s a saxifrage that is often grown as a houseplant but that does equally well in the garden: Saxifraga stolonifera, also known as creeping saxifrage.

Like Saxifraga fortunei, creeping saxifrage has flowers whose unequally sized petals give them an exotic, almost orchid-like appearance. It also has striking round, semi-evergreen leaves that are dark green with vivid whitish veins on their upper surfaces and red underneath.

Like strawberry plants, creeping saxifrage sends out new plantlets on runners, and by this means can quickly spread to form an attractive, weed-suppressing mat – providing you plant it in a sheltered, shady spot on humus-rich, well-draining soil.

Mysteriously, the RHS website claims that creeping saxifrage is a tender plant that won’t survive if the temperature drops below freezing, whereas American gardening sites generally rate it as hardy to below minus 10°C. In my experience the RHS is being overcautious; my creeping saxifrage happily survives the Yorkshire winter in a dry, shady corner. If you’re concerned, though, you can easily pot up one or two plantlets in autumn and keep them indoors until spring.

Top Mossy saxifrage Saxifraga x arendsii ‘Alba’ Above Saxifraga ‘Southside’

The festive season is just around the corner and from the end of November we will have our usual huge selection of Christmas trees, holly wreaths and sprays, door wreaths (and everything you need to make your own), poinsettia and houseplants, planted bowls, gift cards and more.

It is also the perfect time to plant hedging, trees and shrubs - the majority of which we grow ourselves here in Leeming Bar. Check our website for current availability and sign up to our Newsletter to keep informed of all our latest news and offers.

We would like to wish all our customers old and new the very best wishes for the season and a Happy New Year!

01677 422861 braithwaites.co.uk enquiries@braithwaites.co.uk

Spatchcock and Wurzill

Tip-top trees

A Christmas tree is the centrepiece of any festive decorative scheme, and the only way to ensure it looks smart well into the new year is to buy a healthy tree from a local independent nursery like Braithwaites at Leeming Bar. Braithwaites offers a splendid selection of top quality trees – Nordman, Norway Spruce and Fraser Fir – with plenty of friendly staff on hand to advise which type best suits your needs. braithwaitesnursery.co.uk

Pea shooter

There aren’t many fresh greens in the vegetable garden at this time of year, but it’s easy to grow pea shoots on your windowsill to use as a tasty, nutritious garnish. Soak your peas in water for 24 hours, then sow them 2cm deep and 1cm apart in pots or trays. Keep them well watered and wait; they’re ready to eat when they’re 10cm tall.

Springtime stunner

With its hanging clusters of pale yellow, bell-shaped flowers carried on bare branches, Stachyurus praecox is a stunning shrub that will bring a touch of magic to your garden in spring. It needs light, well-drained, humus-rich soil on the acid side of neutral and grows best in part shade – a perfect specimen plant for a sheltered spot in a woodland garden.

SAW POINT

Winter is the best time to prune most trees and shrubs. And to deal with thicker branches – the ones secateurs can’t cope with – a folding pruning saw like this RHSendorsed one from Burgon & Ball is just the thing. Its high-carbon steel blade makes short work of most jobs, and when folded it’s easy – and safe – to carry in your pocket. burgonandball.com

Robin hood

Garden birds need a helping hand during cold weather, and robins are no exception. They’re reluctant to take food from hanging feeders, but they will love this stylish polycarbonate dome feeder from the RSPB shop. The hood’s height can be adjusted to deter larger birds and allow robins, tits and sparrows to feed in peace. shopping.rspb.org.uk

Fabulous floristry

Add a touch of natural beauty to your home this festive season with a Christmas wreath, table decorations or bouquets from Rosemary & Twine in Leyburn. Everything they create is bespoke and unique, and they deliver to Leyburn, Catterick, Masham and surrounding areas. Rosemary & Twine also carry an excellent selection of houseplants, and their vouchers make great last-minute gifts. rosemaryandtwine.co.uk

Vital signs

Cut Backs

Most roses require regular pruning to stop them getting leggy, and this is best done before the end of February. Old and damaged stems should be removed altogether. The remaining stems can safely be shortened by one third to one half, snipping just above an outward-facing bud. And don’t be afraid to lop plants back to ground level if a drastic renovation is required.

STUNNING STEMS

The signage on your gate, fence or housefront says a lot about you and your home, so it's worth getting something that suits your style. Riponbased Spatchcock & Wurzill offer beautiful bespoke wood and slate signs for homes and businesses. Choose from a range of standard sizes and order from their website or – if you want something unusual – let them design a sign specially for you. spatchcockandwurzill.com

With its vibrant red stems, Cornus alba ‘Sibirica’ provides a welcome splash of colour in the winter garden, and it’s easy to propagate from hardwood cuttings any time between November and March. Simply plant 20cm lengths of stem, cut just below a bud, in gritty compost. By this time next year, most will have rooted and be ready to plant out.

SEASONAL SENSATION

Mahonia ‘Winter Sun’

Mahonia × media

‘Winter Sun’ is a plant that does just what its name suggests, namely lights up dark corners of the garden at the time of year they need it most. Mahonias are easygoing evergreen shrubs that will happily grow pretty much anywhere, and their cheery yellow flowers are followed by handsome blueblack berries.

Traditional blacksmith in the heart of North Yorkshire

From gates and railings to stairs, furniture and sculpture – we can create beautiful bespoke metalwork to enhance your home or business. We combine traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge techniques and innovative design to bring your ideas to life.

Take a look at our website for examples of our work, or call us to discuss your requirements.

ADAM CRANE BLACKSMITH

Unit 2 The Sawmills, West Tanfield, Ripon, HG4 5JU 07788 116660 adam.crane@btconnect.com www.adamcrane.co.uk

e nest bespoke timber buildings are Castles

At Castle Timber Buildings we make an incredible range of buildings including sheds, stable blocks, garages, garden rooms and summerhouses. All our designs are fully bespoke and made in the highest quality timber by our talented cra smen here in Yorkshire.

Icy Winter Wreath

A light and crisp wreath to make by Malin Björkholm

When the cold January wind is whistling and the Christmas wreaths have been tidied away, it’s nice to cheer yourself up with something light and crisp, such as a wreath in icy tones. In this wreath, I have mixed white and silver with a dash of blue and purple. A few picked plants, such as dried grass and silver dust from the garden, are mixed with some bought flowers, for example blue sea holly. I let the Spanish moss hang down a little, to create a natural feel, and I leave the dried bougainvillea sticking out in this asymmetrical wreath.

MATERIALS

Metal ring

Floral tape

Myrtle wire, green

Wire cutters

FLOWERS/FOLIAGE

Bougainvillea, dried

Dried butcher’s broom

Hare’s tail grass

Reed or dried grass

Sea holly, blue

Silver dust

Spanish moss

Wavyleaf sea lavender

1 Start by wrapping a metal ring with floral tape. Secure the tape and pull it lightly so that it gets tacky and sticks to the ring. Wrap around the whole ring to prevent the flowers from sliding around.

2 Attach myrtle wire to the ring by wrapping it around the ring and then twisting it.

3 Start with the silver dust: it is soft and a bit bushy, which makes it easier to build the rest of the wreath on top of it.

4 Secure the silver dust in place by wrapping the myrtle wire a couple of times around the stems.

5 Continue placing the other materials around the wreath, wrapping them with myrtle wire. Make sure the stems of the previous bunches are covered when you place the next bunch.

6 Repeat around the whole wreath, alternating the materials as you go. For the wreath in the picture, I have grouped different plants together in different parts of the wreath, to give some visual variety. To make the wreath bushy, try to use materials of mixed lengths.

7 When you reach the end, lift the first layer of silver dust and tuck the stems under to hide them.

8 Turn the wreath over and cut the wire with wire cutters. Secure by ‘sewing’ a couple of stitches into the wrapped wire.

Taken from A Year of Flower Wreaths by Malin Björkholm, published by Batsford. Photography © Malin Björkholm.

Notes

Food news, events and fabulous local produce

Prime Pork

FOOD SAY CHEESE

Why not try something different this festive season with some fabulous local free-range pork? Campbell’s is renowned for its superb rare-breed meat, and their pork is exceptional. Sourced from pigs raised in North Yorkshire, the taste and texture are out of this world. Campbell’s also supplies grass-fed beef, succulent local lamb, corn-fed chicken and Herb Fed turkeys. campbellsofleyburn.co.uk

Heavenly hampers

A hamper of Yorkshire goodies makes a splendid Christmas gift for family, friends or treasured business colleagues. With its enormous range of local delicacies, Mainsgill Farm Shop is ideally placed to put together hampers that bring together the best food and drink our region can offer. Choose a pre-made hamper, design your own, or let Mainsgill’s helpful staff make the decisions for you. Need hampers posted out? They’ll even do that too! mainsgillfarm.co.uk

ARTISAN EXCELLENCE

With a mission to source the best ethically and sustainably produced meat from across the Dales and deliver it to your door, the eatTelfit butchery and farm shop is the perfect place for environmentally conscious gourmets to do their festive food shopping. Whether it’s succulent steak or sumptuous sausages, wild venison or wood pigeon, you can order from eatTelfit and be sure that you’re not only buying premium products but also supporting artisan producers committed to regenerative, nature-friendly ways of farming. eattelfit.co.uk

No festive cheeseboard would be complete without a selection of the superb local cheeses for which the Dales is famous. The Swaledale Cheese Company has been making award-winning artisan cheeses from locally sourced fresh milk for over 30 years, using time-honoured recipes that date back to the 11th century. swaledalecheese.co.uk

Go for goose

Goose is an increasingly popular choice for the festive roast. And if you want to experience it in its full glory, try one of the fabulous freerange geese from Greensley Bank Farm near Bainbridge. Grass-reared and slow to mature, their meat is light, delicate and flavoursome – perfect for Christmas or any special family occasion. Greensley Bank also offers mouthwatering lean, dark, free-range Muscovy duck and prime grass-fed Beef Shorthorn beef. greensleybank.co.uk

Tasty turkey

Turkey makes a fabulous festive roast, especially if you buy a top-quality bird – and if that’s what you’re looking for, then head for Mainsgill Farm Shop. Mainsgill’s turkeys live a pampered life, raised slowly and naturally on the family farm’s own specially mixed cereal diet. They are then hand-plucked and dry-hung for ten days to develop the fullest flavour. Options include buying as a whole bird, as a boneless easy-carve crown, or as a boneless rolled joint. mainsgillfarm.co.uk

SWEET TREATS

If anyone knows how to make top-notch chocolates, it’s Kathryn Cuthbertson, who spent eleven years of her culinary career creating menus for Royal weddings, Royal christenings and other state occasions. Christmas is the perfect excuse to indulge in some of her exquisite chocolates. Buy them as treats for family and friends, and keep a box handy to delight unexpected guests. You can order them from kathryncuthbertson.com; take a look at Kathryn’s beautifully decorated chocolate bars while you’re there.

Game on!

With its rich, hearty flavours, it’s hardly surprising that game is such a popular choice for festive-season entertaining. The butchery department at Campbell’s of Leyburn has a welldeserved reputation for sourcing a huge selection of the finest local game, including duck, pheasant and partridge. Not sure how to cook it? Don’t worry, their knowledgeable staff will be happy to advise. To order or to find out what’s in stock, call 01969 625600. campbellsofleyburn.co.uk

ON COURSE

If you’re not confident about how to cook game, the Estate Game cookery course at Swinton Cookery School on 17 December will give you the knowledge and skills that you need in order to get the most from this marvellous seasonal produce. Like all classes at Swinton, the course takes a hands-on approach, and all the ingredients and equipment you need will be provided. To find out more, and book your place, visit swintonestate.com/cookeryschool

Prime preserves

Post-Christmas there are always cold cuts to be turned into light lunches or simple suppers. And nothing peps up sliced turkey or ham like a zingy, fresh-flavoured chutney. North-Yorkshirebased Bracken Hill Fine Foods make delicious chutneys that meet the brief perfectly. Their Christmas Chutney is a traditional plum chutney with dried fruit, sweet peppers and festive spices, and their Boxing Day Chutney combines caramelised onion, cranberry and claret. brackenhillfinefoods.co.uk

DISCERNING DINER

iddleton-in-Teesdale is a bustling market town nestled in picture-postcard scenery ten miles northwest of Barnard Castle. The London Lead Mining Company made Middleton its headquarters in 1815; the prosperity it brought is reflected in some grandiose Victorian architecture and a few rows of neat company houses for the mineworkers.

Less than a century later the Company wound up, and Middleton slipped back from being an industrial hub into rural seclusion. Stare out from a window seat in The Forresters’ restaurant on a weekday lunchtime and the passing traffic you’ll see seems to consist largely of tractors, 4WDs hauling livestock trailers, and convoys of motorcycle tourists. The town is also popular with hillwalkers. This is an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and High Force, England’s most dramatic waterfall, is just a stone’s throw away.

It’s hardly the place you’d expect to find a French restaurant, but that’s the dining offering at The Forresters. Apparently, the owner is French, so it’s probably as close to the genuine article as you’re likely to get in the Northern Dales.

ENTENTE CORDIALE

The spacious restaurant interior is a cosy hybrid of English country pub and French bistro. There’s a cast iron stove, exposed beams and a wooden floor, and the walls are decorated with a selection of Gallic signage and paraphernalia.

It’s unfussy and unpretentious, with a generally laid-back feel.

There’s plenty of choice, with eleven starters and a whole two pages’ worth of mains. We were tempted by the escargots a l’ail but decided to open proceedings with French onion soup with Gruyère croutons, and Gruyère soufflé with sweet chilli sauce.

The soufflé was delightful, with a crisp, golden-brown top and a light, fluffy interior that delivered a confident cheesy punch. I wasn’t so keen on the sweet chilli sauce, which I felt was over-sweet and insufficiently spicy; something sharper and fruitier might have worked better as an accompaniment. No matter, the soufflé was accomplished enough to carry the show on its own.

Better still – in fact simply splendid – was the French onion soup. Hidden beneath the enormous toasted-cheese-topped croutons was a soup so darkly intense, so sharply rich with reduced wine, so loaded with carefully caramelised onions that every mouthful was a joy. Magnifique!

On to mains, and first up was tartiflette. Tartiflette, a classic après-ski dish from France’s Haute-Savoie region, is a bake consisting of onion, potato, bacon and cream topped with chunks of Reblochon cheese. It was served with a pleasant, well-dressed salad of tomato, rocket, peppers and lots more crisp veggies besides.

The toasted cheese topping of the tartiflette was lovely, but the rest of the dish was too salty for my taste. Hopefully this was the result of a one-off slip-up backstage.

RIGHT-ON ROAST

Fortunately, our other main – roast guinea fowl with prune and pine-nut stuffing, served with dauphinoise potato and sloe gin gravy –was bang on the money. The meat was moist and succulent, the prune provided a twang of fruitiness without being too dominant, and the pine nuts added a gently crunchy texture. The extensive pool of gravy was dark, shiny and rich, and the accompanying wedge of dauphinoise was beguilingly soft.

So far so French, but with dessert we slipped quietly across the Alps into Italy for panna cotta with clementines, Grand Marnier, quince and a pine-nut praline crumble. Panna cotta is all about the wobble – too much or too little gelatine and it’s either too stiff or too runny. This one was spot on, and the citrusy flavours were a good foil for the lushness of the set cream. For some reason, Chef had seen fit to decorate it with iridescent sprinkles – not strictly necessary, perhaps, but one has to applaud the exuberance.

More exuberant still were the ‘seasonal meringue sliders’ with Chantilly cream and berry fruits. These were presented on a slate, with the meringues modelled as colourful cartoon animals. This could easily have been a gimmick too far had the meringues, cream and berries not been so nicely done. As it was, we couldn’t help but smile. Kids would have loved the look of it, but it tasted sufficiently adult to win us over.

An unexpected – but very pleasant –conclusion to a solidly enjoyable lunch. The Forresters offers a menu you’re unlikely to find elsewhere in the Dales, featuring Continental flavour combos served in portions that are generous enough to fill northern boots. Just the place to refuel if you fancy exploring the dramatic landscape of Upper Teesdale.

WHAT TO EXPECT

French flavours, encompassing everything from baguettes to boeuf bourguignon.

AMBIENCE

Unpretentious country pub / French bistro mash-up.

SERVICE

Relaxed front-of-house staff wearing (you’ve guessed it) stripy T-shirts.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Three courses each for two people cost us £66.

DOWN THE HATCH

The wine list, unsurprisingly, focuses on French wines. A 175ml glass of Sauvignon Blanc cost us £5.75.

WALK IT OFF

High Force and Low Force are both within walking distance.

For more information about The Forresters Bar & Restaurant, visit forrestersmiddleton.co.uk or call 01833 641435.

Manchega, 1 Duck Hill, Ripon 01765 647554 manchega.uk

Manchega

is Spanish influenced, Yorkshire inspired!

The best in small plates (and some larger) for you!

Authentic, quality, individual dishes, sauced and salsa’d to perfection.

The finest locally sourced ingredients lovingly prepared before your eyes.

Community and atmosphere, warmth and humour.

Finest wines, relaxed service.

Friends and family, fiestas and good times You could say we’ve got it all.

La ManXa is the best food/good times experience in town!

A Lot of Bottle

Behind the scenes at Campbell’s of Leyburn’s one-of-a-kind wine department

pstairs at Campbell’s of Leyburn – the venerable family-owned supermarket that has been serving the Dales since 1868 – first-time visitors are often surprised to discover a wine lover’s wonderland, a must-visit destination for dedicated drinkers.

The shelves in this serene, oak-beamed and wood-floored space are packed with what must surely be the most extensive range of tempting tipples in the North: 1,800 wines, 800 spirits and 100 ales. And remember, that’s just different types. At any one time there are likely to be some 26,000 individual bottles of drink on the premises, says store manager Richard Walker.

Richard first started working at Campbell’s as a 13-year-old part-timer way back in 1986. For the last 25 years he has been general manager, and nowadays looking after the wine department is one of his many responsibilities.

It was the late Doug Campbell, the fifth generation of his family to own and run the supermarket, who in the early 2000s had the enthusiasm and vision to turn the first floor of the building – formerly dedicated to video rentals – into a spectacular showcase for the world’s wines. When Doug became too ill to work, Richard took up the reins.

RANGE FINDER

So with a carefully curated selection of wines that has been constantly changing – and expanding – over the years, how does Richard choose what makes it onto the shelves?

“We use fifteen or so specialist wine agencies – suppliers who have been in business for generations, and who we know will give us good advice. And, of course, I do tastings and go to trade events. I’ll be looking for quality, value and something that’s new and interesting – which obviously has become harder and harder to find the more our range has grown.”

“In terms of which country’s wines are most popular with our customers, France is still number one, although tastes have definitely shifted over the last few years. Gone are the days when we used to stock hundreds of clarets and Bordeaux, although we still keep a good selection for our more traditionally minded customers. Second most popular? Italian wines. And Spanish wines are third.

“There was a time when Australian wines were all the rage because they were so cheap. The better quality ones are still good, but they’re no longer cheap.

“Today’s customers are interested in trying wines from new regions, and there aren’t any countries that are making bad wines these days. Wines from South Africa are on the up, in part because people have holidayed there and developed a taste for them. At the moment they offer significantly better value for money than, say, Burgundies.

“The country that has particularly impressed me this year is Greece. We carry more than twenty Greek wines now, whereas in the past we might only have had a handful.”

THINK PINK

“As for red wines versus white wines, we sell pretty much the same amount of each. What’s definitely on the increase is rosé. People drink it all year round now, and Provençal rosés attract the younger generation. Another of the changes that has happened in the last five years is that there’s now a good range of English wines .

“In general, people nowadays drink less but better. Rather than buying £5.99 plonk, many drinkers prefer to spend £10.99 on something that’s decent quality, so the average spend per bottle has gone up.

“I really love my job; every day is totally different. Yes, there’s a lot of heavy lifting involved, but I get a great workout and average 15–18,000 steps a day!”

“Campbell’s has always had a reputation as being a friendly place where shopping is a pleasant experience rather than a chore, and it’s nice to be able to put a smile on people’s faces. Customers appreciate that we’re prepared to go the extra mile; for example, we are happy to advise on food pairings, we have a glass hire service, and we offer a sale-or-return service on wine for events.”

“One of the things I most enjoy is seeing people’s reactions when they come upstairs for the first time. They’re always wowed by the scale of our drinks department because in most cases they’ve never seen anything remotely like it.

“And it’s not just everyday customers; we get lots of positive feedback from professional winemakers from all over the world. They often tell us how lucky we are here in the UK to have access to such a huge range of different wines. In wine-producing countries like France, say, you can generally only get hold of French wines – and often only the wines of the particular region you happen to be in. Here we have the pick of the world’s very best.”

To find out more about Campbell’s visit campbellsofleyburn.co.uk or call 01969 622169.

GREENSLEY BANK

Greensley Bank Shorthorn Beef cattle are grass-fed on the lush green pastures of Wensleydale.

Our animals are reared for taste, not volume; supermarket meat simply doesn’t compare.

We supply succulent beef that has been prior hung for a full month in various box sizes, professionally butchered, boxed, labelled and freezer-ready.

Free-range Christmas goose and Muscovy duck, grass reared and slow to mature.

A delicate light meat which is lean and avourful due to the fact that they graze and roam freely.

Supplied oven ready.

Enjoy a traditional British festive lunch or special family occasion at an alternative time of year.

Greensley Bank • 07775 813242 greensleybank.co.uk paulchambers@greensleybank.co.uk

MAGNIFICENT MALLARD

Dark, rich and full-flavoured, wild mallard is both delicious and sustainable. Here Chris O’Callaghan, Executive Head Chef at Aldwark Manor Estate, puts a new spin on this inseason treat by combining it with beetroot, chervil and soy.

Roasted mallard duck with beetroot, chervil, soy caramel, and peppercorn sauce

Continued overleaf

SERVES 8

FOR THE PEPPERCORN SAUCE

5 shallots

10 button mushrooms

½ clove of garlic

7/8 sprigs of thyme splash of sherry vinegar

375ml white wine

375ml Madeira

1.5l chicken stock

10g pink or green peppercorns dash of lemon juice salt and pepper

FOR THE BEETROOT

200g caster sugar

375ml red wine

200ml red wine vinegar

200ml water

2 bay leaves

3 sprigs of thyme

15g salt

5 black peppercorns

16 baby beetroots

FOR THE CHERVIL ROOT PURÉE (parsnips can be used instead of chervil root if unable to source)

500g chervil root

125g unsalted butter

500ml double cream salt

FOR THE SOY CARAMEL

100g caster sugar

5g light soy sauce

FOR THE MALLARD

4 mallard crowns (removed from fridge an hour before use)

100g butter

20 sprigs of thyme olive oil

TO SERVE blackberries

Peppercorn Sauce

Finely slice the shallots and mushrooms and sweat with the garlic and thyme. When they start to brown, add the vinegar, wine and Madeira, and boil for 2 minutes. Add the stock and cook until reduced by a third. Strain the mixture through a sieve and reduce to sauce consistency. In a new pan, heat the peppercorns for 90 seconds, and then use a rolling pin to crush them. Add the crushed peppercorns, dash of lemon juice, and salt and pepper.

Beetroot

Combine all ingredients, except the beetroot, in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Peel and slice the beetroot, add to the pan, and boil for 5 minutes. Cover the mixture and leave to cool.

Chervil Root Purée

Peel the chervil root and slice thinly. Melt the butter in a pan, add the chervil root and sauté until it starts to colour. At this point, pour the cream over, cover with a lid and leave to simmer for 45 minutes until softened. Remove the chervil root from the liquid and blend until smooth, adding some of the cooking liquid if needed.

Soy Caramel

Melt the sugar in a warm pan until a light-brown golden colour. Remove from the heat and stir in the soy sauce.

Mallard

Preheat the oven to 1700C. Melt 50g of the butter in a frying pan with 1 tsp olive oil at a low heat until there is a foam across the surface. Gently fry the crowns to add colour to the skin, and remove from heat. Stuff the cavities with the thyme and remaining butter and roast for 6-8 minutes, until the meat reaches 450C if probed. Remove from the oven and brush with olive oil before leaving to rest for 15 minutes. While the mallard is resting, gently warm the caramel, beetroot and peppercorn sauce in their pans ready to assemble. When the mallard has rested, remove the breasts from the crown and skin, and slice the breasts.

Assemble the dish by first drizzling the caramel over the plate, then add the purée, beetroot and mallard. Finally, pour the peppercorn sauce over, garnish with some blackberries, and enjoy.

Aldwark Manor Estate, set in 200 acres of parkland between York and Harrogate, has 60 luxurious bedrooms, an 18-hole golf course and three restaurants, including the 3-AA-Rosette Chartwell. For more information visit www.aldwarkmanorestate.co.uk

Your Family run Fine Food and Wine Emporium

Here are just a few reasons why Campbell's can make your Christmas and New Year unforgettable:

• Indulge in succulent poultry, rare breed meats, and game, as well as a curated selec on of free range herb fed bronze turkeys – all though ully sourced from our local suppliers.

• Explore our Deli counter, brimming with exo c delights sure to tantalize your taste buds.

• Discover an extensive array of ar san cheeses from across the globe, including beloved classics like S lton and Wensleydale.

• Uncover a treasure trove of delectable and innova ve products, carefully selected from small scale suppliers.

• Elevate your celebra ons with an impressive collec on of ne world wines, with many exclusive to Campbell's, including an excep onal range of champagne and sparkling wines.

• Choose from a diverse selec on of over 500 di erent spirits, boas ng more than 150 malt whiskies and a variety of cra gins.

• Simplify your gi ing with our Bespoke Hampers tailored to your requirements and convenient gi vouchers, o ering elegant solu ons for those tricky presents.

HAM IT UP

Ham is a Christmas classic, but this year why not ginger it up a little with this spicy but straightforward recipe from artisan food specialists EatTelfit

Ginger, maple and lager roast ham

1.5kg gammon piece, skin on

2 cans of lager

2 bay leaves

12 black peppercorns

2 star anise

1 tablespoon ginger powder

5 tablespoons maple syrup

15 or so cloves

1 Place the gammon in a deep casserole dish and add the lager, bay leaves, black peppercorns and star anise before topping with water to cover the ham.

2 Pre-heat an oven to 140°C, place the dish on the hob and bring to the boil before skimming off the foam that floats to the surface.

3 Cover with a lid, then add to the oven and cook for 2 hours till the centre is at 70°C.

4 Remove from the oven, remove the twine and the skin gently before scoring the fat in a criss-cross pattern.

5 Mix the ginger powder and the maple syrup in a bowl before massaging into the top of the fat and stud the top with the cloves.

6 Raise the oven’s heat to 180°C, remove all the liquid from the casserole dish, and place the ham back into the oven for 40 minutes till golden brown.

7 Rest for 30 minutes and serve warm.

What to drink

Pairing wine with ham can be tricky, says Ben Leatham, founder of eatTelfit. A light, smooth Beaujolais works divinely with the sweet and salty richness of the ham.

Another good match is a dry Riesling, its fruit and floral aromatics complement the meat perfectly.

EatTelfit in Leyburn now has an online shop that specialises in artisan food produced using natural, sustainable methods. To find out more, visit eattelfit.co.uk

THE BIG CHEESE

Born here in North Yorkshire, James Martin is one of the nation’s bestloved chefs. He has won critical acclaim and countless awards for his food, and has twice been voted TV Personality of the Year. His latest book celebrates cheese, which he hails as ‘the most versatile and flavoursome ingredient in the world’. Here he shares some of his favourite recipes.

GOAT’S CHEESE AND BEETROOT WITH HAZELNUT BREADCRUMBS

100g soft goat’s cheese

75g mascarpone

3 mixed coloured beetroots

25ml olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

3 sprigs of thyme, leaves picked sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

edible garden flowers and herbs, such as pansies or fennel fronds, to garnish (optional)

FOR THE HAZELNUT BREADCRUMBS

1 slice of stale sourdough bread, roughly torn 25g hazelnuts, lightly crushed 25g butter

FOR THE DRESSING

100ml fresh beetroot juice

25ml olive oil

10ml red wine vinegar (preferably Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar) pinch of sugar pinch of salt

SERVES 2

Heat a BBQ until hot and the coals are white, or you can roast the beetroot instead of using the BBQ.

In a bowl, mix the goat’s cheese and mascarpone together until smooth. Transfer to a piping bag and snip the end off.

On a large piece of foil, roll the beetroot in some olive oil and season heavily with salt and pepper. Keep the beetroot apart so the colours do not bleed into each other. Add the thyme and evenly distribute around the beetroot. Seal the foil parcel and bake directly on the coals of the BBQ for about 1 hour or until cooked. Allow to cool, then remove the skins and slice into wedges.

Whizz the sourdough in a food processor to form breadcrumbs. Mix together with the crushed hazelnuts. Melt the butter in a pan over a medium heat, then gently fry the breadcrumb mixture until golden and crispy, turning frequently to toast and soak up all the butter.

In a pan over a high heat, reduce the beetroot juice by half. Then pour into a bowl and whisk together with the oil, vinegar, sugar and salt.

To serve, divide the beetroot between plates, top with the hazelnut breadcrumbs and drizzle over the beetroot reduction. Pipe on the goat’s cheese mixture, then decorate with garden herbs and flowers and drizzle with oil.

HERBED LAMB RACK WITH RATATOUILLE

8 rib rack of lamb, trimmed and cleaned

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

FOR THE HERB CRUST

1 small bunch of flat-leaf parsley

1 small bunch of mint

25g Parmesan, grated

1 thick slice of white bread

1 tablespoon full-fat cream cheese

zest of 1 unwaxed lemon

FOR THE RATATOUILLE

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, diced

1⁄2 garlic clove, sliced

1 red pepper, diced

1 yellow pepper, diced

1 green pepper, diced

1 courgette, cut into 1cm cubes

1 aubergine, cut into 1cm cubes

3 large tomatoes, diced

1 small bunch of basil, torn

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

SERVES 4

Preheat the oven to 200°C (180°C fan) gas 6.

Heat a large frying pan until hot, then fry the lamb, fat-side down, for 2 minutes.

To make the herb crust, blitz all the ingredients to a fine paste in a food processor or blender. Brush the fat on the lamb with the mustard, then top with the herb paste. Transfer to a roasting tray and roast for 15–18 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to rest for 10 minutes. Slice.

Meanwhile, for the ratatouille, heat a large non-stick pan over a medium heat, add the oil, then add the onion and fry for 1 minute. Add the garlic, then the peppers and cook for 30 seconds, then add the courgette and cook for another 30 seconds. Finally, add the aubergine and tomatoes, season and cook over a gentle heat for 5 minutes or until cooked. Finish by stirring through the basil.

Serve the ratatouille with the lamb.

1kg minced beef

1 onion, diced

1 garlic clove, chopped

450ml beef stock

1.5kg potatoes, peeled and diced

125g butter

300g Cheddar, grated

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

TO SERVE

300g frozen peas

25g butter

COTTAGE PIE

SERVES 8

Place a large non-stick pan over a high heat and fry the beef, onion and garlic for 6–8 minutes until deep brown in colour. Then add the stock, season and simmer for 1 hour. Pour into a large ovenproof dish and leave to cool.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (180°C fan) gas 6.

Meanwhile, boil the potatoes in salted boiling water until soft. Drain, then pass through a ricer into a bowl. Add the butter and season. Pipe or fork on top of the meat, then top with the grated cheese. Bake in the oven for 30–40 minutes.

Plunge the peas into boiling water for 2 minutes. Drain and dot with the butter. Serve alongside the cottage pie.

Recipes taken from Cheese by James Martin, published by Quadrille (£25).

Photography © Dan Jones.

350g egg yolks (about 12 egg yolks)

140g icing sugar

500g mascarpone, softened

120ml Marsala

300ml coffee (ideally made in a moka pot)

cocoa powder, for dusting

FOR THE SAVOIARDI

6 large eggs

200g caster sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

a pinch of salt

240g plain flour

60g cornflour

icing sugar, for dusting

TIRAMISU

SERVES 8

Preheat the oven to 190°C (170°C fan) gas 5. Line a baking tray with baking parchment.

First make the savoiardi. Separate the egg yolks from the whites and whisk the yolks, in a bowl, with half the sugar and the vanilla until firm. In another bowl, and with a thoroughly cleaned and dried whisk, whisk the egg whites with the remaining sugar and the salt until stiff peaks form. Fold into the yolk mixture. Sift the flour and cornflour together and gently fold them into the egg mixture.

Transfer the mixture to a piping bag and snip the end off.

Pipe 10cm long fingers onto the prepared baking tray. Bake for about 15 minutes until they are golden and firm to the touch. Leave to cool, then sprinkle with icing sugar.

Put the egg yolks and icing sugar in a large mixing bowl. Whisk until firm and then fold in the mascarpone.

Pour the Marsala and the coffee into a shallow bowl, then dip in the savoiardi biscuits to soak for a few seconds. Form a single layer of soaked savoiardi in a deep serving dish, and cover with a layer of the mascarpone. Repeat the layers, finishing with mascarpone.

Keep refrigerated and generously sprinkle with cocoa powder before serving. Any leftovers will keep in the fridge for up to 2 days.

FOR THE LOVE OF FOOD

Nefali Garden Fried Feta

Paul Ainsworth has spent a lifetime working in Michelin-starred kitchens. Working with quality produce and alongside the UK’s best chefs, he’s learnt that seriously good food and comforting classics are key to a truly flavourful life. Here he shares some of his favourite dishes.

NEFALI GARDEN FRIED FETA

There is something magical about the acidity and savouriness of feta, the spices in the crumb and the sweetness of the honey, which you add as you serve. I’ve chosen chestnut honey, as it’s my favourite, but a good-quality runny honey will be equally as tasty.

SERVES

4

200g block of feta

20g sesame seeds

1 tsp smoked paprika

½ tsp onion powder

½ tsp garlic powder

6g nigella seeds

25g dried breadcrumbs (I use panko)

25g plain flour

2 egg whites, whisked

150ml olive oil

Sea salt

Cracked black pepper

Chestnut honey, to serve

Take the feta block out of the packet and drain on kitchen paper. Leave for 20 minutes.

In a bowl, mix together the sesame seeds, smoked paprika, onion powder, garlic powder, nigella seeds and breadcrumbs.

Season the flour with a pinch of sea salt and black pepper, and place on a plate, then place the egg whites in a shallow dish. First coat the feta in the seasoned flour, shaking off any excess, then dip the feta into the egg whites, again shaking off the excess. Finally, place the feta in the spiced breadcrumbs and coat really well.

In a small frying pan, heat the olive oil to about 160°C, using a food thermometer to check the temperature. Carefully shallow-fry the feta on both sides, turning every minute until golden brown and crisp. Drain the fried feta on kitchen paper and serve with chestnut honey drizzled all over the top. Enjoy!

Recipes taken from For the Love of Food by Paul Ainsworth, published by Pavilion Books (£20).

Photography by Issy Croker.

The Mariners’ Hot Pork Pie

THE MARINERS’ HOT PORK PIE

To make a proper hand-raised pork pie, it’s all about the seasoning, and so, when you’ve made the sausage filling, it’s important to make a small patty from the mixture (about 10–15g) and fry it off in a small frying pan to taste. This way, you have a trial run on the batch and can adjust the seasoning as necessary. If you find it a bit over-seasoned, now’s your chance to add a bit more sausage meat.

MAKES 6

1 tbsp olive oil

1 white onion, finely diced

2 garlic cloves, chopped

500g sausage meat

1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

20g English mustard

15g flat-leaf parsley, chopped

6 rasps of fresh nutmeg

2 pinches of cracked black pepper

Cornish sea salt

For the pastry

500g plain flour, plus extra for dusting

2 eggs

5g salt

165g lard

200ml water

2 sprigs of rosemary leaves, picked

20g unsalted butter, for greasing

2 egg yolks, beaten

First, make the pork pie filling. Place a medium frying pan over a medium heat and add the oil. Once the oil is warm, cook the onion and garlic with a pinch of sea salt until they are soft, then take the pan off the heat. Place the sausage meat in a large bowl and add all the remaining ingredients, including the warm onions and garlic. Mix well and season lightly (see introduction).

Now make the pastry. Using a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, place the flour, eggs and salt in the mixer bowl and combine.

In a saucepan, add the lard, water and rosemary, and bring to the boil, then turn off the heat and infuse for 5 minutes. Remove the rosemary and discard. Pour the lard mixture into the flour and eggs and, using the paddle attachment, combine to form a dough. It will look quite wet, so transfer it to a tray lined with baking paper and spread it out on the parchment, then leave to chill in the fridge for 2 hours.

Preheat the oven to 185°C fan. When you are ready to make your pies, roll out the pastry on a well-floured surface until it is 5 mm thick. Using an 8cm circular pastry cutter, cut out 6 large rings of pastry. Then, using a 6cm cutter, cut out 6 pastry lids. In each lid, cut a small hole right in the centre of the disc to allow for steam to escape. Place each large pastry disc into a greased round metal ring, firmly pressing the pastry into the bottom and leaving equal excess pastry overhanging the top of the ring. Fill the lined ring with the pork mixture and lightly brush the excess pastry with the beaten egg yolk.

Place the smaller discs on top on top of the pork mixture and seal the edges by pressing together firmly. Lightly trim the pastry with scissors so you have an even excess all the way around, and then, with a little flour on your fingers, pinch the pastry upwards to form a firm seal and for presentation. Bake the pork pies on a flat tray for 15 minutes, then transfer to a rack and cook for a further 10–15 minutes. Enjoy warm, straight from the oven.

Friday Night Honey-Glazed Duck

FRIDAY NIGHT HONEY-GLAZED DUCK

One of my fondest food memories of growing up was the rare treat of a Chinese takeaway. What I enjoyed the most was the duck with pancakes, spring onion, cucumber and hoisin sauce. This is a real centrepiece dish for the table, and I promise you it will blow your family and friends away when you serve it to them.

SERVES 4

2kg whole duck

½ tbsp coriander seeds, lightly crushed

½ tbsp pink peppercorns, lightly crushed

220g clear honey

Flatbreads

Sea salt

Cracked black pepper

For the cucumber and mint salad

½ cucumber, halved and deseeded

6 spring onions, peeled and washed 10 radishes, thinly sliced

1 tsp white sesame seeds, toasted

1 tsp black sesame seeds, toasted

10 large mint leaves

1 tbsp rice wine vinegar

2 tbsp olive oil

300g jar of hoisin plum dipping sauce

Preheat the oven to 180°C fan.

Lightly score the duck breast with a sharp knife to help the fat render down while cooking. Now generously season the duck all over with sea salt, place on a roasting tray and roast for 30 minutes, basting the duck thoroughly with the rendered fat half-way through.

Remove the duck from the oven and pour out any rendered fat from the roasting tray. Rub the coriander seeds and pink peppercorns all over the skin of the duck, followed by all the honey, making sure the duck is entirely coated. Reduce the oven temperature to 140°C fan, return the duck to the oven and cook for another hour, basting every 15 minutes with the rendered fat and honey.

Reduce the oven temperature to 120°C fan and continue cooking the duck for another hour, again basting every 15 minutes. In the final 10 minutes, remove the duck from the oven and drain away any excess fat from the tray, leaving only the caramelised honey in the tray. Baste this honey over the duck, then place it back in the oven for a final 5 minutes. You should have cooked the duck for 2½ hours in total. Remove the duck from the oven and allow it to rest for 20 minutes.

To make the salad, take a large mixing bowl and diagonally slice the cucumber to create large, thin strips. Take the spring onions and cut them into thin matchsticks. Add the sliced radishes and toasted sesame seeds and either slice or tear your mint into the salad. Now add the rice wine vinegar, olive oil, a pinch of sea salt and a couple of twists of pepper and mix everything together.

Just before serving, reglaze the duck with any excess honey that has fallen off into the roasting tray. Place the duck in the middle of the table with a pile of warm flatbreads, the crisp, fresh salad, and a pot of plum sauce. Get stuck in by tearing off some lovely succulent duck and placing it on a flatbread with some fresh salad and plum sauce.

The Mariners’ Spotted Dick

THE MARINERS’ SPOTTED DICK

What makes this Spotted Dick different is our caramel glaze, which the sponge soaks up. We don’t give ourselves enough credit, but I firmly believe that Great Britain has the best desserts, puddings and sweet treats on the planet.

SERVES 4

250g self-raising flour

Pinch of fine salt

125g beef suet

180g sultanas

80g caster sugar

Zest of 1 lemon

Zest of ½ orange

150ml whole milk

Custard, to serve

For the sherry caramel

170g muscovado sugar

170ml double cream

Pinch of Cornish sea salt

20g unsalted butter

20ml sherry vinegar

First, make the sherry caramel. Place all the ingredients in a saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring regularly, then let the caramel bubble away for 2–3 minutes. Take off the heat and keep warm.

Using a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, add all the steamed pudding ingredients to the bowl, except the milk, and mix together well. Now start adding the milk and bring the ingredients together to form a dough. Once you have a dough, remove the mixture, roll into a fairly large log shape and brush liberally all over with warm sherry caramel. Wrap in a layer of baking paper, wrapped in a layer of foil, rolling nice and tightly.

Take a saucepan with a lid large enough to fit the spotted dick parcel. Place a heatproof plate upside down on the bottom of the saucepan and add water so it just covers the top of the plate. Cover the saucepan with a lid and bring the water to the boil. Turn down the heat to a simmer and carefully place the spotted dick parcel on top of the plate, cover with the lid and steam for 1½ hours. Keep an eye on the water so that the saucepan never boils dry.

Once the spotted dick is cooked, take the parcel out of the pan and leave to rest for 20 minutes. Unwrap the spotted dick and cut a thick slice, brush all over with more sherry caramel, and serve with the warm, thick custard.

THE MARINERS’ THICK CUSTARD

I developed this recipe when we opened The Mariners, as I wanted a proper, thick custard for our dessert menu so I combined a traditional creme anglaise with Bird’s custard powder which thickens the sauce and gives it a rich yellow colour.

SERVES 4

2 egg yolks

30g caster sugar

35g Bird’s custard powder

350ml full-fat milk

50ml double cream

¼ tsp vanilla (seeds, fresh, dry or extract)

1 small pinch of Cornish sea salt

Take a medium-sized mixing bowl and add the egg yolks, sugar and custard powder with 50ml of your milk and whisk together to form a paste. Place the remaining milk with the cream and vanilla into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Once boiled, pour half of your milk mixture into the bowl with the egg yolk mixture, and combine, then return the mixture to the saucepan and heat over a low heat until thick, stirring continuously until you have a beautiful, glossy, thick custard. Season with the Cornish sea salt, serve with everything and get stuck in!

PERFECT PAIRINGS

Fiona Beckett is an award-winning food and wine writer. Here she pairs some dishes with delicious wines

Mushroom, mustard and madeira soup

A rich, intensely delicious soup that makes a good first course for a dinner party.

SERVES 4-6

75g butter, plus a little extra for frying the mushrooms

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 large garlic clove, finely chopped

500g chestnut mushrooms

2 tablespoons Madeira or Oloroso sherry

1 teaspoon dried porcini powder (optional)*

1 litre mushroom or vegetable stock*

1 medium potato, peeled and sliced

2 teaspoons wholegrain mustard

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper lemon juice, to taste double cream, to serve

Heat the butter in a large saucepan or casserole and add the chopped onion and garlic. Cook over a low heat until soft.

Wipe the mushrooms clean, trim the stalks and thinly slice, reserving a good few slices for the garnish.

Tip the remaining mushrooms into the butter, stir and cook for about 15 minutes until the mushrooms are brown and the liquid has all but evaporated. Stir in the Madeira or sherry and the porcini powder if using. Add the stock, bring to the boil then add the sliced potato. Simmer until the potato is soft.

Strain, reserving the liquid and blitz in a blender or food processor, gradually adding back the reserved liquid until you have a smooth soup. Return to the pan, add the mustard and reheat gently without boiling. Check the seasoning, adding salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste.

To serve, fry the reserved mushroom slices briefly in a little butter. Ladle the soup into warm bowls, top with a swirl of cream and scatter the mushroom slices over the top.

* If you use vegetable stock, I’d add some dried porcini powder to the mushrooms to intensify the flavour.

What to drink

A glass of Amontillado sherry is perfect with this, or you could drink a rich Chardonnay.

Warm scallop salad with crispy pancetta and parsnip crisps

Cooking scallops is a bit like cooking a steak. You can sear them, then make a delicious dressing with a dash of wine mingled with the pan juices.

SERVES 4

12 medium-sized fresh scallops, removed from their shells

1 tablespoon olive oil, plus extra for dressing the salad

100g pancetta cubes

4 tablespoons Chardonnay, Viognier or other full-bodied white wine

2 tablespoons fish stock or water

1 tablespoon double cream or crème fraîche

about 80g mixed salad leaves

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the parsnip crisps

1 medium parsnip, peeled vegetable oil, for deep-frying sea salt

To make the parsnip crisps, cut off the root end of the parsnip to leave a piece about 10 cm long and 3–4 cm wide at its narrowest point. Using a mandoline or a vegetable peeler, shave off very thin slices.

Fill one-quarter of a wok with vegetable oil. Heat the oil until very hot, about 190˚C, or until a cube of bread turns golden in 40 seconds. Add the parsnip slices and fry in batches for about 30–60 seconds until brown and crisp. Remove the crisps with a slotted spoon, drain on paper towels and sprinkle lightly with salt.

Season the scallops on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a frying pan, add the pancetta cubes and fry for about 3–4 minutes, turning occasionally, until crisp. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon, drain on paper towels, then set aside and keep warm.

Pour off the fat from the frying pan, then return the pan to the heat for about 1 minute until almost smoking. Add the scallops to the pan and cook for 2–3 minutes, depending on their thickness, turning them over halfway through. Remove them from the pan, set aside and keep them warm.

Pour the white wine into the pan and let it bubble up. Continue cooking until the wine has reduced by half. Add the fish stock or water and keep the liquid bubbling until it has reduced to just over a couple of tablespoons. Pour any juices that have accumulated under the scallops into the pan, stir in the cream or crème fraîche and season to taste with salt and pepper. Warm through for a few seconds, then remove the pan from the heat.

Divide the salad leaves between four plates, drizzle with a little olive oil and season lightly. Scatter over the pancetta cubes and the parsnip crisps. Put three scallops on each plate, spoon over the pan juices and serve immediately.

What to drink

A white Burgundy or other cool-climate Chardonnay would be delicious with this dish.

Italian-style roast pork with white wine, garlic and fennel

This is one of my favourite family recipes for the weekend. You can leave it for hours gently bubbling away in the oven and you will have a fantastic dish at the end of the day. I generally use an Italian wine like a Pinot Grigio, but you could use any dry white wine.

SERVES 8

3kg boned, rolled pork shoulder

2 tablespoons fennel seeds

1 tablespoon coarse sea salt

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 teaspoon crushed dried chillies

6 large garlic cloves, roughly chopped

freshly squeezed juice of 2 lemons

2 tablespoons olive oil

175ml dry white wine

sautéed potatoes and salad or mashed potatoes and green beans, to serve

a large roasting pan with a rack an ovenproof dish

Cut deep slits in the pork skin with a sharp knife. Grind the fennel seeds, salt, peppercorns and chillies using a pestle and mortar. Add the chopped garlic and pound to a rough paste. Using your hands, smother the paste all over the pork, working it into the slits. Put the pork on a wire rack and place it over a roasting pan. Cook, skin-side up in the preheated oven for 25–30 minutes. Remove the pork from the oven and reduce the heat to 120˚C/Gas 1/2. Turn the pork over and pour half the lemon juice and all of the olive oil over it. Return the pork to the oven and cook for at least 7 hours, checking it every couple of hours. You should be aware that the meat is cooking – it should be sizzling quietly. Ovens vary, so you may want to increase the temperature slightly.

About halfway through the cooking time, spoon off the excess fat and squeeze the remaining lemon juice over the meat. About 30 minutes before the pork is due to be cooked, remove it from the oven and increase the heat to 220˚C/Gas 7. Transfer the pork, skin-side up, to a clean ovenproof dish and, when the oven is hot, return the pork to the oven for about 15 minutes to crisp up the crackling. Remove from the oven and let rest. Pour off any excess fat from the original roasting pan and add the wine and 175ml water. Heat gently on the top of the stove, working off any sticky burnt-on bits from the edges of the pan, and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain the juices through a sieve and keep them warm. Carve the pork into thick slices. Put a few slices on each of eight warmed plates and pour some of the pan juices over the top. You could serve this with sautéed potatoes and salad or mashed potatoes and green beans.

What to drink

If you want to stick to white, a quality Pinot Grigio or Italian Soave would be perfect with this dish. Or try a Chianti Classico.

Super-boozy Christmas fruit cake

This is the the most fabulously moist cake. I prefer to top it with dried fruits rather than the usual royal icing.

MAKES 18–20 SLICES

225g sultanas

225g seedless (dark) raisins

350g currants

50g undyed glacé cherries

50g chopped almonds

8–10 tablespoons medium-dry Amontillado sherry

275g plain flour

1 ⁄4 teaspoon salt

1 ⁄2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 ⁄2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

21 ⁄2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa powder

1 teaspoon gravy browning powder (in the original but optional)

225g unsalted butter at room temperature

225g plus 2 tablespoons caster sugar

4 eggs

finely grated zest of ½ unwaxed orange

2 tablespoons apricot jam, to glaze ready-to-eat dried fruits and nuts, to decorate

23cm cake pan, base and sides lined with non-stick baking parchment

Measure out the dried fruits, cherries and nuts into a plastic box or large storage jar and pour over the sherry. Mix well and leave to soak for a couple of days, stirring or shaking the fruit every 12 hours or so.

Sift the flour, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, cocoa powder and gravy browning, if using, together.

Preheat the oven to 150˚C/Gas 2.

Cream the butter with the sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add a spoonful of flour after each egg to prevent curdling. Mix in all the soaked fruit, the almonds, orange zest and the remaining flour mixture and beat thoroughly.

Transfer the cake mixture into the prepared pan. Press down firmly, smooth the top with a spatula or wooden spoon and hollow out at the centre slightly. Bake for 31/2 hours until firm to the touch and cooked through.

Cover the cake lightly with foil after 2 hours to prevent it over-browning. When the cake is ready, remove from the oven and leave in the pan for 20 minutes. Transfer the cake to a wire rack to cool completely. Remove the baking parchment and wrap in fresh greaseproof paper and foil and store in an airtight container for about a month before decorating or icing.

To decorate, briefly microwave 2 tablespoons of apricot jam and 1 tablespoon water. Sieve and keep warm in a bowl over a pan of simmering water. Brush over the top of the cake. Arrange the dried fruits and nuts over the top of the cake and brush with the remaining glaze.

What to drink

This recipe already has a fair amount of booze in it but, if you’re feeling especially indulgent, a small glass of sweet sherry or Madeira would be the icing on the cake!

Recipes taken from The Wine Lover’s Kitchen by Fiona Beckett, published by Ryland Peters & Small (£22). Photography by Mowie Kay, © Ryland Peters & Small.

Pub Grub

Chef and TV presenter Matt Tebbutt knows a thing or two about cooking for hungry customers. Here he elevates dishes with his own signature twists

Crab and citrus salad with crispbreads

Pork loin cooked in milk, bay and lemon

Stollen with honey butter

Crab and citrus salad with crispbreads

SERVES 2

For the crab salad

200g white crab meat

1 tbsp olive oil

1 lime, peeled and chopped

1 pink grapefruit, peeled and chopped

1⁄2 Braeburn apple, peeled and finely diced salt and pepper

For the dressing

2 tbsp brown crab meat

1 tbsp crème fraîche juice of 1 lime

For the crispbreads

200g strong bread flour

7g sachet dried yeast

1 tsp sea salt

1 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp coriander seeds, toasted and crushed

To serve

1 tbsp chopped fresh dill

1 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon

I like to make this crab salad as a sharing dish or pre-starter. The crispbreads are a dinner party show-off, but you could always buy in some nice quality ones.

Mix the white crab meat with the olive oil in a large bowl and season with salt and pepper. Stir in the lime, grapefruit and apple.

For the dressing, place all of the ingredients in a food processor and blitz to a smooth paste. Transfer to a small bowl.

For the crispbreads, put the flour, yeast, salt and oil in a food processor with a dough hook attachment. Gradually add 100–150ml water until a dough is formed. Put in a bowl, cover with a tea towel and leave to prove for 1–2 hours, or until doubled in volume.

Preheat the oven to 220°C/Gas 7. Divide the dough into four and roll out each piece through a pasta machine on its thinnest setting, or roll by hand as thin as you dare. Lay on a baking tray, sprinkle over the crushed coriander seeds and some salt and brush over some oil. Cook for 8–10 minutes.

To serve, put the crispbreads on a serving plate. Spoon the dressing over the crispbreads, add the crab salad and garnish with the herbs.

Pork loin cooked in milk, bay and lemon

This is a beautifully gentle way of cooking a loin of pork. It’s a traditional Italian method – the milk will curdle during the cooking process, but the resulting juices are simply delicious. Serve with mashed potato or soft polenta.

Preheat the oven to 150°C/Gas 2.

Season the pork all over and seal in a little olive oil in a deep casserole or roasting tray big enough to hold the pork as a whole. Add the onions, butter, garlic and sage and let the pork sizzle to extract the flavour. Add the milk almost to cover, along with the bay leaves, lemon zest and half of the juice. Put into the low preheated oven and cook uncovered for 11 /2–2 hours until the bones pull away easily.

Remove the pork and keep warm. Skim any excess fat from the sauce, taste, and pour in the remaining lemon juice. On the hob, reduce to a sauce consistency. The sauce should now be nicely curdled.

Cut the meat into slices and spoon over the sauce and soft onions.

SERVES 4-6

1 whole loin best-quality Old Spot pork, 1.5–2kg in weight, boneless and skinless salt and pepper olive oil

2 white onions, peeled and cut into quarters

100g unsalted butter

2 garlic bulbs, cut in half

1 bunch sage approx. 2 litres milk (enough to cover the pork)

3 bay leaves

pared zest and juice of 2 unwaxed lemons

Stollen with honey butter

SERVES 6-8

For the stollen

100g unsalted butter, cubed

300g strong white flour, plus extra for dusting

1⁄2 tsp salt

150ml whole milk, plus extra to glaze

60g caster sugar

7g dried yeast

3 clementines, zested

100g dried cranberries, chopped

50g pecan nuts, chopped

60g dark chocolate chunks

200g marzipan, rolled into a long log

For the honey butter

100g unsalted butter, room temperature

60g clear honey

10g icing sugar

I love marzipan in anything, but it does conjure up Christmas for me. This particular recipe also uses cranberries and clementines for the very same reason.

To make the loaf, rub the butter into the flour and salt in a large mixing bowl to make a breadcrumb consistency. Heat the milk in a small pan to blood temperature, add the sugar and the yeast and mix well. Then add the grated clementine zest, cranberries, pecans and chocolate to the breadcrumb mix. Make a well in the centre and add the warmed milk. Mix to a soft dough.

Knead the dough for 10 minutes on a lightly floured surface before rolling it into a rectangle of 30 x 15cm. Roll the marzipan to a length that will fit the loaf and lay it down one edge. Roll the dough over to encase the marzipan – you can brush the edges with a little water to help them seal. Arrange on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper, cover and leave to prove for 30 minutes in a warm place. Preheat the oven to 160°C/Gas 3. Brush the loaf with milk to glaze and bake for 45–60 minutes. Remove from the oven, cover with a clean tea towel and allow to cool a bit before slicing.

To make the honey butter, beat the butter until soft in a bowl, add the honey and icing sugar, and beat again until soft and smooth. To serve, slice the loaf and spread with the honey butter.

Recipes taken from Matt Tebbutt’s Pub Food by Matt Tebbutt (Quadrille, £26). Photography © Chris Terry.

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Art Deco Jewellery

n the 1920s everything felt new, bright and exciting. The economy was booming and everyone’s standard of living seemed to be on the up. Radio, moving pictures and the motor car, along with jazz music and a succession of wild dance crazes, were transforming people’s lives and leisure time. For anyone aspiring to be fashionable, Art Deco was the style of the moment. Everything from skyscrapers to vacuum cleaners had to look new and different, and jewellery was no exception.

FUTURE SHOCK

Art Deco jewellery reflects a break away from the Art Nouveau style – and also from more traditional Edwardian jewellery, explains Jessica Fall, jewellery specialist at Tennants Auctioneers in Leyburn. Whereas Art Nouveau was characterised by free-flowing, organic forms, Art Deco used stylised, geometric, rectilinear, symmetrical motifs that would have seemed decidedly exciting and futuristic to people at the time.

An Art Deco ruby, diamond, blue, purple and yellow sapphire brooch, circa 1935. Sold for £4,800.

And whereas traditional Edwardian jewellery was characterised by expensive gemstones and muted colour schemes, Art Deco pieces generally used materials that were less costly but often more boldly coloured, such as jade, coral, onyx and rock crystal. In short, the emphasis was firmly on style rather than on intrinsic value.

Art Deco also saw a shift away from silver and gold to platinum. Platinum is substantially stronger than silver or gold, and recently perfected technology allowed jewellers to use it to create intricate filigree and openwork designs that used less metal and were slimmer, lighter and airier than the Victorian and Edwardian jewellery that preceded them. In tandem with this there was a move away from designs featuring large bulging stones to designs built up from slim rectangular baguette-cut stones and small rectangular or square calibre-cut stones.

An Art Deco jade, diamond, ruby and onyx pendant, circa 1925. Sold for £6,800.

A pair of Art Deco diamond drop earrings. Tennants auction estimate £600 to £800.

For anyone aspiring to be fashionable, Art Deco was the style of the moment

An Art Deco aquamarine and diamond brooch. Tennants auction estimate £1,500 to £2,000.

A lady’s Art Deco diamond wristwatch, 1930s. Sold for £500.

COLLECTED WORKS

An Art Deco diamond and sapphire three-stone ring. Tennants auction estimate £2,000 to £3,000.

Many of the distinctive features of Art Deco jewellery make perfect sense when seen in the perspective of the wider fashion trends of the time, says Jess. For example, hairstyles were short, leading to a demand for longer, bolder earrings. Sleeves were shorter; consequently, stacked bangles were all the rage.

Long pendant necklaces were perfect for the low-cut, straight dresses of the period, their tasselled drops echoing the tassels on the dresses themselves. Evening wear was cut lower at the back as well as at the front, so necklaces had to look smart from behind, too, and hence were often given elaborate clasps.

MIX AND MATCH

In order for jewellery to keep up with the frenetic whirl of social life, multi-functionality was key. Brooches and pins weren’t just used on dresses but were attached to scarves, hats and other items of clothing. Clip brooches, which could be worn either as one large brooch or two smaller ones, were especially popular. Likewise, earrings and necklaces often came with detachable drops that could be used as brooches, and bangles sometimes came with detachable clips.

Art Deco diamond bracelet. Sold for £4,000.

Sadly, the pleasure-seeking, heady optimism of the 1920s lost some of its impetus thanks to the Great Depression that loomed at the end of the decade. Nonetheless, the Art Deco style persisted through the 1930s, until the outbreak of the Second World War put a definitive stop to the fun and flamboyance.

Today Art Deco jewellery is keenly sought after by collectors. The auction market for it has been consistently buoyant and is likely to stay that way, according to Jessica. “Antique jewellery in general has a strong following, and Art Deco pieces in particular are still very wearable today thanks to the fact that they’re slim, light, stylish and colourful. What’s more, there are fewer and fewer pieces of Art Deco pieces coming to market. Precisely because they’re so easy to wear they tend to be passed down through the family rather than being sent to auction. So values are unlikely to drop any time soon.”

For more information about Tennants Auctioneers, or to arrange a valuation, visit tennants.co.uk or call 01969 623780.

An

Great Escapes

From culture-packed cities to sun-soaked beaches, now is the perfect time to book a break away

Antiguan adventure

With its 365 sandy beaches – one for every day of the year – the Caribbean island of Antigua is the perfect getaway for those in search of winter sun. And there’s more to do than just lounge on the idyllic palm-fringed sands.

Not far beneath the azure waters lie coral reefs teeming with colourful marine life, and in one or two places you can even go snorkelling directly from the beach. There’s history to be discovered too – Nelson’s Dockyard is the only remaining Georgian naval facility still in use anywhere in the world – and naturally the seafood is top-notch.

Captivating Kraków

Perfect for a quick break, Kraków is one of Poland’s oldest cities – and one of Europe’s most beautiful destinations. Its wonderfully preserved medieval Old Town district was amongst the very first sites to be added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Kraków Old Town highlights include the enormous Market Square, St Mary’s Basilica with its gothic spires, and the imposing Wawel Castle. But there’s plenty to enjoy besides history and architecture, and the city is packed with lively bars and dining opportunities ranging from Michelin-starred restaurants to a vibrant street-food scene.

Nelson’s Dockyard, Antigua

TRAVEL

Tyrolean treasure

St Anton am Arlberg is part of the largest connected ski area in Austria, with over 300 km of marked ski runs and 200 km of freeride terrain. But this traditional village, 1,300 metres above sea level in the Tyrolean Alps, makes a perfect vacation resort regardless of whether or not you’re heading for the slopes. The mountain setting is spectacular, and during the winter months the village has a Christmas card charm. If you’re a non-skier, you’ll find plenty of other activities to keep you busy: take a soak in a mountain sauna, go tobogganing with the kids or enjoy a horse-drawn sleigh ride around the surrounding villages.

Czech it out

Prague, with its picturesque cobbled streets and wealth of monuments, museums and historic buildings, is worth visiting at any time of year, but it can be rather hot and crowded in summer. Visit in late winter or early spring, though, and you’ll find it a much more relaxing experience.

Prague Castle, St Vitus Cathedral, the Old Town Hall’s astronomical clock and the statue-studded Charles Bridge are top of most visitors’ ‘to do’ lists, but be sure to set time aside to chill out in a traditional Czech coffeehouse or sample the city’s worldfamous beers.

For more great ideas for winter breaks, visit The Travel Lounge at 11 Market Place, Bedale. Alternatively, call 01677 427358.

THE TRAVEL LOUNGE IS RENOWNED FOR ITS EXCELLENT SERVICE AND COMPETITIVE PRICES.

Our friendly expert team are second to none and use their extensive knowledge to create the perfect holiday, just for you. Our in-depth experience and proven high levels of service are supported by the financial security of being fully ABTA-bonded.

Cundall Manor School is a thriving independent day and boarding school for boys & girls from Nursery to GCSE

Set within 28 acres of picturesque North Yorkshire countryside, pupils are happy and supported in small class sizes, to explore their creativity, take risks in their learning, and develop resilience. As a result, they become confident, caring, and independent young adults.

Discover why so many families choose Cundall. Contact us today to arrange your visit. We look forward to welcoming you.

DALESDIARY WINTER

Swinton Park Estate

Masham, Ripon, HG4 4JH 01765 680900

swintonestate.com

Festive Lunch at The Terrace

until 23rd December

Escape the Yorkshire elements to the warm and cosy setting of The Terrace Restaurant and Bar. Enjoy a delectable two- or three-course festive lunch available throughout December, leading up to Christmas Day. The regular Terrace menu will also be available throughout December. Bookings now being taken.

Festive Afternoon Tea at The Terrace until 31st December

Experience the quintessential tradition of Afternoon Tea, reimagined with a festive twist, in the spectacular setting of Swinton Park on the Swinton Estate. Savour an array of exquisite, festive delicacies from our pastry kitchen – featuring locally sourced meats, artisanal preserves, and delightful holiday treats. For an extra special occasion, toast with a glass of English sparkling wine or champagne served in the opulent Drawing Room or Private Sitting Room, which is adorned with elegant holiday decorations and offers stunning wintery views across the beautiful Deer Park.

Estate Game Cookery Course

17th December

Learn how to prepare, cook and serve a variety of seasonal game at the Swinton Cookery School. Understand how to approach different types of game and their individual cuts of meat to get the most from this wonderful seasonal produce. The classes take place in our stunning country kitchen with breathtaking views of Swinton Estate Grounds and the Yorkshire Dales. We always encourage a hands-on approach within the classes, and all ingredients and equipment will be provided.

Great Stocks and Sauces Cookery Course

13th January 2025

Learn the secret tricks of making great stocks and sauces from our Chef Tutor at the Swinton Cookery School. The classes take place in our stunning country kitchen with breathtaking views of Swinton Estate Grounds and the Yorkshire Dales. We always encourage a hands-on approach within the classes, and all ingredients and equipment will be provided.

Reiki Drumming Spa Day

16th January and 20th February 2025

Combine the benefits of a Reiki Drumming session followed by relaxation time in the opulence of the pools, saunas and steam rooms at Swinton Country Club. The gentle rhythm, tones and sounds of the handmade drums will help you naturally release stresses and tensions. The session will support your body, mind, spirit and soul, giving you a sense of ‘wholeness’. The Spa Day experience includes a two-course lunch in The Terrace Restaurant and Bar, plus two hours’ access to the facilities at Swinton Country Club.

Yoga Spa Day

29th January 2025

Join us for a deeply therapeutic Yoga Spa Day. Combine the benefits of a hatha yoga session followed by relaxation time in the opulence of the pools, saunas and steam rooms at Swinton Country Club. The 90-minute yoga workshop takes place in the Studio and will follow the principles of hatha yoga to stretch, nourish and relax the body, mind and spirit, delivered by our associate yoga instructor Jane Cluley, who caters for all abilities. The Spa Day experience includes a two-course lunch in The Terrace Restaurant and Bar, plus two hours’ access to the facilities at Swinton Country Club.

Tennants Auctioneers

Harmby Road, Leyburn, DL8 5SG 01969 623780 tennants.co.uk

Jewellery, Watches & Silver

11th January 2025, 9.30am

Jewellery, Watches & Silver Sales bring together a wide a range of affordable period and modern jewellery, vintage and collectable watches, and silver from the 18th to 21st century. Viewing times Wednesday 8th January - Thursday 9th January 10am-4pm, Friday 10th January 10am-5pm and morning of sale from 8am.

Antiques & Interiors

24th January 2025, 9.30am

The popular fortnightly Antiques and Interiors

Sales attract a loyal following of regular buyers and they are a good source of 20th- and 21st-century collectables. Including a mix of affordable traditional art and antiques, jewellery, watches and more, the Antiques and Interiors Sales are a great place for novice buyers to begin their collection.

Viewing times: Tuesday 21st January - Wednesday 22nd January 10am-4pm, Thursday 23rd January 10am-5pm, and morning of sale from 7.30am.

A Day at the Races: Cheltenham Gold Cup Day

Friday 14th March 2025, 12.00 - 5.30pm

This spring at The Garden Rooms, we are recreating the atmosphere of Gold Cup day with an afternoon of live TV coverage, including top tips from the legendary John Tennant, delicious twocourse buffet lunch and cash sweepstake, to make the most of this thrilling annual event.

Tickets - to include delicious two-course buffet lunch

Tables of fewer than 6 - £34pp Tables of 6 or more - £32pp

Foden’s Brass Band Concert

Saturday 29th March 2025, 7.00pm - 9.30pm

Foden’s Band was formed in 1902 as part of the Foden’s Motor Works. The band have been based in Sandbach, Cheshire since its formation and are the current ‘Double National Champions of Great Britain’ as well as being ranked as one of the leading brass bands in the world.

The cafe will be open, serving a selection of hot dishes, with last food orders at 6.30pm *Booking recommended*. The cafe will remain open for drinks & cakes until the end of the interval. The Gallery Bar will be open from 7pm. The Bistro will be open, serving a special evening menu, from 4pm – 6pm.

Tickets: Section A – £24.00, Section B – £22.00, Section C – £19.00. Seating is first come first served within chosen section. For group bookings of 15 people or more and hospitality packages, please email info@tennantsgardenrooms.com

Kiplin Hall & Gardens

Near Scorton, Richmond, DL10 6AT

01748 818178 kiplinhall.co.uk

Open 6 days a week (closed on Thursdays)

Snowdrop Strolls

From Friday 7th February 2025, 10am - 5pm

Take a stroll through the grounds of Kiplin surrounded by swaths of snowdrops and aconites. Be among the first to indulge in our delicious locally blended Kiplin coffee, home-baked cakes, scones, and light lunches in our new for 2025 cafe and visitor centre. The hall will also be open for visitors. Children can enjoy our snowdrop spotters guide available to pick up at reception. Conditions underfoot may be wet in places, so we suggest visitors wear appropriate footwear.

Wild Wednesday

Wednesdays 19th & 26th February 2025

Seasonal family activities themed around nature and ecology at The Folly, across the lake at Kiplin Hall and Gardens.

Yore Mill Craft Shop and Gallery

Church Bank, Aysgarth, DL8 3SR 01969 662829

yoremillcraftshopandgallery.co.uk

Sketchbook and Journalling

Saturday 8th March 2025

Using a variety of mixed-media techniques to create an experimental sketchbook. These will include mark-making, collage, gelli printing and painting, which will give you an exciting, creative and colourful journal of the day. A very free explorative experience of mindfulness and calm in the countryside.

The full day with lunch is £75 per person.

Bepoke Classes

Have you seen a course on our website that you fancy but can’t make the scheduled date? Would you like a day having fun and creating with your family or friends? We can arrange a date that suits you and tailor a course to your needs. For groups of 3-5 people.

The full day with lunch is £75 per person.

Some

satisfied

clients for over 25 years

Swinton Park Black Sheep Brewery

Holme Design

Dovetail Interiors

Tennants Auctioneers

Hudspeth Flooring

Milners of Leyburn

CHARTERED SURVEYORS • ESTATE AGENTS • PROPERTY AUCTIONEERS

SWARTHGHYLL FARM, OUGHTERSHAW

An outstanding country estate with house, bungalow, apartments and bunk barn in the heart of the Yorkshire Dales with 100 acres of land.

Offers In Excess of: £1.95M

SWIDNEY LODGE, MELMERBY

A five bedroom country residence with garaging, land extending to 5 acres and stunning views across Coverdale.

Guide Price: £895,000

SPRING COTTAGE, DOWNHOLME

A traditional three bedroom cottage with planning permission for extension, a detached barn and small paddock.

Guide Price: £650,000

PENHILL FARM, WEST WITTON

A uniquely positioned stud farm with three bedroom farmhouse, a range of buildings & stabling together with 66.9 acres of land.

Guide Price: £1.0M - £1.25M

A traditional 4 bedroom country property with large gardens, small garth and riverside frontage.

Guide Price: £700,000 - £725,000

ARUNDEL GRANGE, HORSEHOUSE

A substantial 17th century detached farmhouse with four double bedrooms beautifully situated in a secluded inland position with a detached stone barn.

Guide Price: £625,000

GUILDY HALL, MUKER

CHARTERED SURVEYORS • ESTATE AGENTS • PROPERTY AUCTIONEERS • VALUERS • LAND AGENTS

STABLE COTTAGE, BELLERBY

An immaculate three bedroom detached character property currently running as a 5 star holiday let with private garden.

Guide Price: £380,000

BOW COTTAGE, MIDDLEHAM

An attractive three storey Grade II listed cottage with two double bedrooms, private courtyard garden & stores located on Middleham market square.

Guide Price: £275,000

RIVERSONG, AYSGARTH

A grade II listed holiday let with two bedrooms situated close to Aysgarth Falls.

Guide Price: £225,000

AMBLERS, BAINBRIDGE

An immaculate and recently updated two-bedroom, double fronted cottage situated around the village green.

Guide Price: £289,500

A well presented terraced cottage with two bedrooms and private courtyard garden situated in a popular market town location.

Guide Price: £225,000 - £250,000

THE OLD SHOP, REDMIRE

A charming and deceptively spacious one bedroom cottage with small courtyard in a popular village. Offers In Excess of £195,000

PONY CUBE COTTAGE, MIDDLEHAM

DALES LIFE FROM:

The Bay Horse, Ravensworth

Bear Cottage, Hawes

Booths, Ripon

Campbell’s of Leyburn

The Cheese Press, Richmond

The Co-op, Masham

Dovetail Interiors, Bedale

EatTELFIT, Leyburn

Emma Brown, Northallerton

Fairhursts, Swinithwaite

The Greengrocer, Bedale

The Green Howards Museum, Richmond

Hansom Restaurant & Wine Bar, Bedale

Holme Design, Bedale

Kiplin Hall, Richmond

Lewis and Cooper, Northallerton

Mainsgill Farm Shop, Richmond

If you are travelling, please call ahead to ensure copies are still available. COLLECT YOUR COPY OF

Manchega, Ripon

Mill Close Farm Shop, Hackforth

Milners of Leyburn

Northallerton Tourist

Information Centre

The Old Deanery, Ripon

Ripon Walled Garden

Rosemary & Twine, Leyburn

Sanderson & Co, Leyburn

The Station, Richmond

Tennants of Leyburn

Thorp Perrow Arboretum, Bedale

The Travel Lounge, Bedale

Wonky Tree Bookshop, Leyburn

Yorkshire Hideaways, Leyburn

ESTATE PLANNING

• Wills and probate

• Estate administration

• Powers of attorney

• Care home fees

• Tax planning

• Estate disputes

PROPERTY & RURAL LAW

• Property sales & purchases

• Landlord and tenants matters

• Agricultural land

• Leases and tenancies

• Rights of way

• Sporting rights & purchases

• Wind farms

FAMILY

• Adoption

• Separation & divorce

• Contact with children or grandchildren

• Civil partnership dissolution

Dine

on the swinton estate

Chef’s Table by Josh Barnes

An unforgettable culinary experience of incredible food and drink served by Michelin-trained, award-winning chef Josh Barnes.

Samuel’s Restaurant

Enjoy a new classic British dining experience in refurbished Samuel’s Restaurant. Open Wednesday to Saturday evening and Sunday for a sumptuous Yorkshire lunch.

The Terrace Restaurant & Bar

From small plates to sharing feasts, The Terrace Restaurant & Bar offers seasonal menus showcasing Estate produce with a fresh and modern twist.

Afternoon Tea in the Drawing Room

Enjoy beautiful delicacies from our pastry kitchen, locally sourced meats, local preserves, and perhaps a glass of champagne, for an extra special occasion.

To Dine For

Great places to eat and stay in the beautiful Yorkshire Dales

The Old Deanery Ripon

Nestled within the enchanting town of Ripon, The Old Deanery stands as a magnificent Jacobean mansion, housing Yorkshire’s newest restaurant destination. The Old Deanery has opened its doors as an exclusive dining experience, with renowned chef Adam Jackson at the helm. The restaurant promises the pinnacle of culinary artistry, where fine dining becomes an exquisite journey through flavours.

theolddeanery.co.uk 01765 600003

Tennants Garden Rooms Leyburn

The Garden Rooms Bistro offers exceptional food in a unique setting. The passionate kitchen brigade pride themselves on delivering beautifully crafted dishes using the best Yorkshire produce; each highly seasonal menu offers an affordable choice of classic and modern British food delivered with outstanding service in a comfortable and relaxed environment.

tennantsgardenrooms.com 01969 621146

Stone House Hotel Sedbusk

This beautiful country house near Hawes in Wensleydale serves delicious, locally sourced dishes with oodles of flair. Visitors are welcomed daily for evening dining in the hotel’s intimate restaurant, or for lunch, afternoon tea, coffee and cakes, and drinks in the newly refurbished bar and Oak Room. Discover for yourself why Stone House is considered the hidden gem of Wensleydale.

stonehousehotel.co.uk 01969 667571

The White Bear Masham

The White Bear’s talented chefs use locally sourced ingredients to create delicious seasonal dishes, and there’s an extensive wine list to complement the menu. You can enjoy your meal in the charming dining room or the traditional bar, with open fires creating a cosy atmosphere throughout.

whitebearmasham.co.uk 01765 689319

Swinton Estate

Hansom Restaurant and Wine Bar Bedale

Contemporary dining at the heart of Bedale, serving seasonal tasting menus, small plates and exceptionallycurated wine and drinks lists, by award-winning chef Ruth Hansom. We now offer a complimentary drop off service in our Lotus Electra if you dine on the tasting menu with wine pairing or equivalent.

hansomrestaurant.co.uk 07938 708604

Manchega Tapas y Vinos Ripon

Foodie favourite for locals and visitors alike! Our fusion ‘small plate’ flavours and panache complement the thriving Ripon food scene. We offer an exquisite small menu, locally sourced, seasonal and everchanging. Vibrant and quirky, passionate and openplan; the best to you in food and fine wine! manchega.uk 01765 647554

Aldwark Manor Estate Alne

Aldwark Manor Estate offers an impressive selection of restaurant and bar settings, each with a distinctive culinary experience. Indulge in our exquisite dining menu at Elements restaurant, enjoy signature cocktails in the Squadron bar or relish in the classic traditions of an Afternoon Tea. From special occasion private dining to relaxed intimate meals, Aldwark Manor Estate delights in hosting your next memorable dining experience. aldwarkmanorestate.com 01347 838146

The Wensleydale Heifer West Witton

Join us for lunch or dinner at The Wensleydale Heifer and you’re guaranteed a meal to remember. Using the very best locally sourced and freshest ingredients, our chefs create dishes perfect for fine dining or a more casual meal. With 13 individual rooms, we offer something special.

wensleydaleheifer.co.uk 01969 622322

The Black Sheep Brewery Masham

Nowt fresher than a pint brewed 20 metres from the bar! Sample our award-winning range alongside our delicious menu of home-cooked pub classics. You can also see where the magic happens on a brewery tour and pick up takeaway beers and gifts from our ‘Sheepy’ shop. blacksheepbrewery.com 01765 680101

Swinton Estate Masham

From the award-winning, fine-dining experience in the grandeur of Samuel’s Restaurant to the more relaxed AA Rosette Terrace Restaurant and Bar, serving morning coffee, lunch, dinner and fabulous cocktails, both restaurants showcase local and seasonal produce with much from the estate and four-acre walled garden. swintonestate.com 01765 680900

The Saddle Room Coverdale

Grand honest food cooked to perfection, all locally sourced and freshly prepared. Situated on the Tupgill Park Estate near Middleham in the heart of the Dales, the Saddle Room also has nine bed and breakfast units, seven cottages and a wedding venue that will seat 120 people. thesaddleroom.co.uk 01969 640596

The Sandpiper Inn Leyburn

Sample award-winning chef Jonathan Harrison’s unique take on modern British cooking in The Sandpiper’s 40-seater restaurant or the cosy traditional bar serving local ales, fine wines and an extensive range of whiskies. There are two tasteful boutique-style en-suite doubles for overnight guests. sandpiperinn.co.uk 01969 622206