ISSUE 3 | VOLUME 3 | 2010
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ON THE COVER ISSUE 3 | VOLUME 3 | 2010
Model • Megan Martin from Mode Model Photo • Gravy of gravedangerphotography Hair • Sarah Cameron of Fluid Hair Makeup • Ruth Bancroft JEWELLERY • Carl Abad
PARLOUR MUSIC 10 WhoMadeWho The best thing outta Denmark since Tuborg
PARLOUR STYLE
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IN THE DEEP END
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Crème de la Crème
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A River Runs Through It
Parlour finds the fifth element in a community art project—underwater
Ten top Alberta models showcasing 10 outstanding Alberta designers
With Bow River as our canvas, Parlour explores men’s fashion
PARLOUR LIFE 40 Parlour Home Help us in welcoming Parlour Home
PARLOUR FAVOURITES 42 PARLOUR’S PRIZED POSSESSIONS Favourites to add to your collection
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I like to call this issue our “visually stimulating issue.” The features in these pages have taken months to prepare— a far longer time than we thought it would take to bring to your hands. We have been relentlessly ambitious and dedicated to putting together this celebration of beauty and grace, regardless of the time it took. At the beginning of this issue, we had one word floating around, “iconic.” We knew we wanted to push ourselves creatively, to pull talented and passionate people together, but I don’t think we really understood what we were getting ourselves into. The underwater shoot started in April (yes, more than six months in the making). Beginning with the heroic goal of saving Scona Pool, this project is our associate editor’s baby. Evolving into something epic, this complex process brought together a dedicated photographer who learned to scuba dive to take photos underwater, three graceful synchronized swimmers, three powerful competitive swimmers, three innovative clothing designers, two rebellious jewellery designers, a salon, a makeup artist, a tattoo artist, and the thoughtful final touches of our photo editor, Clayton Didier. Unbelievably, “Crème de la Crème” started at the same time. Since expanding into Calgary, I’ve had the chance to meet and see designs by many Calgarian designers, and I am impressed. I am so proud of Alberta and our collective of talented designers; I wanted to share them with you in an unprecedented fashion. For “Crème de la Crème,” we collaborated with Michael Meneghetti of Mode Models, who has always talked about doing a piece showcasing Alberta’s breakthrough models, a talented group who are glossing international editorial spreads and tearing up the runways from NYC to Milan. Somehow, we pulled off getting this group of designers and models in the same place at the same time. The result is a stunning photoshoot and feature spread photographed by Aaron Pedersen. I am not going to lie, putting this issue together has not been easy, but it has been a beautiful process. Everyone involved has put their heart and soul into it and really grown through the last three months. The truth is that the Parlour family has been dealing with loss. Our editor and our associate editor have lost family members who were pinnacle figures in their lives. The process of grieving is complex, but I am certain that the spirits of their loved ones will live on in these two incredible women.
EDITOR’S LETTER PHOTO • Centree Photography
Parlour is a family, and when one of our family members hurts, we all feel it. But through our collaborations, we grow closer. There are times when we get annoyed with each other, but other times when we see our greatness in each other’s eyes. At the end of the day, the best part is that we created something wonderful together. Sometimes the process is a struggle, but in the end, when we complete an issue and have it in our hands, we know that Parlour is where we can make our dreams happen, no matter how big those dreams may be. This issue is dedicated our editor, Andrea Dorrans’, father, Spencer Dorrans, and to our associate editor, Caroline Gault’s, Mamó, Yvonne McGrath, and my uncle, Carl Solarz. • Shelly Solarz
10180-101 St. Manulife Place (street access 102 St) | 780 479 8408
Publisher/Editor-in-Chief Shelly Solarz..................................................................... shelly@parlourlife.com Assistant to Publisher Kirsta Franke.....................................................................kirsta@parlourlife.com Art Director Pete Nguyen.......................................................................pete@parlourlife.com Senior Copy Editor Andrea Dorrans.............................................................. andrea@parlourlife.com Associate Editor Caroline Gault................................................................ caroline@parlourlife.com Fashion Editor Carl Abad............................................................................ carl@parlourlife.com Photo Editor Clayton Didier................................................................. clayton@parlourlife.com Assistant to Photo Editor William Dean-Stobie Videographer Logan Mackay
Writers Andrea Dorrans, Caroline Gault, Kirsta Franke, Liam Rodgers, Adrianne Thomson, Daniela Codreanu
Photographers Clayton Didier, gravy of gravedangerphotography, Aaron Pedersen of 3TEN, Brianna Hughes of Brianna Hughes Photography, Tri-Kiet Vuong of Kiet’s Studio
Event Coordinator Alice Sech
Contributors Sandy Karpetz, Jill Jerat, Michael Meneghetti from Mode Models
Interns Kirst Riewe, Amanda Greenough, Sofia Fiorentino
Editors of the Month Caroline Gault (September), Kirsta Franke (November), Kirst Riewe (December)
Parlourlife.com writers Chelsey Smith, Chelsea Haeber, Kelsey Robertson, Sandy Karpetz, Jill Jerat
Parlourlife.com photographers Brianna Hughes Photography, gravy of gravedangerphotography, Penny McKelvie & Aspen Zettel of Centree Photography, Kelsie Romans & Christina Russo of Diamond Cake Photography, Calvin Wallace Photography
Advertising inquires advertising@parlourlife.com
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without permission from publisher. The views expressed in Parlour Magazine are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the publisher. Printed in Canada www.parlourlife.com
WE LOVE in no particular order:
Why we love Gravy (not to be confused with the third brother of poutine): sarcastic and quick-witted, Gravy tries to throw us off by convincing us he’s got a hard shell. But don’t be fooled— he’s a rare breed, one of those endearing, kind and thoughtful men who can make anyone feel comfortable in front of the camera. He usually ends up being more excited about a project than the client is, and it’s completely contagious. One taste and you’re hooked. gravedanger.biz
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PHOTO • Kirsta Franke
01 Gravy
To say Sarah Cameron has a passion for hair would be a serious understatement. Stop into her holistic salon and you’ll leave with not only the best head of hair you’ve ever had, but also a wealth of knowledge to go along with it. She is quite easily one of the most talented hair stylists in Edmonton. And you can quote us on that. fluidhair.ca
03 Megan Martin Miss Megan Martin has a close place in our heart. Her very first shoot was with Parlour and seven other Mode models. Let’s just say she stole the show. We fondly refer to Megan as “Deer” because of her long, graceful neck, her doe eyes, and her sweet, gentle demeanor (in her first photo shoot we actually made her a deer). Megan is now off to New York to steal international fashion hearts.
PHOTO • Gravy
02 Sarah Cameron
04 Katrina Mastronardi Katrina is an example of “perfect timing.” Gravy just happened to take a snap shot of this adorable girl when she was volunteering with Parlour, and a few days later while planning our cover shoot, I threw out the idea of putting our model, Megan, in a scarf. Like magic, Gravy pulled out the photo he’d taken of Katrina, and not only was she wearing a great scarf, but the girl designs them! Find her line at innocentpride.com
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05 Logan Mackay Logan Mackay is the little brother with the video camera. He follows Parlour around everywhere and we never seem to give him enough credit. He is immersed in the quiet shadows of each project we set out to do, and he comes up with a completely different visual story that resonates subtle beauty and professionalism. He is the cherry on the top of our Parlour sundae, and we couldn’t do it without him! View some of his magic parlourlife.com
TEXT • Andrea Dorrans PHOTO • Adam Fraser of brainspill inc.
Danish trio, Jeppe Kjellberg, Tomas Barfod, and Tomas Høffding* of WhoMadeWho (WMW) are a rare breed of gusto, skill, and innovation. They are also the nicest popstars I have ever met. Within moments of introducing myself, they invite me to hang out with them in Banff, offer me beer, and gush over my apparent resemblance to Kylie Minogue. When we meet the next day for our interview, they greet me with big smiles and hugs. I wasn’t expecting modesty from the group that Germany’s biggest newspaper, Sueddeutsche Zeitung, recently called the “best band in the world right now,” but I am pleasantly surprised. To say their music is catchy is an understatement; I’ve been singing “Keep Me in My Plane” in the shower for six months. A perfectly odd combination of disco, electro, funk, punk, and rock and roll, WMW creates danceable rock music that transcends all traditional labels.”
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The secret to their easy, unpretentious manner lies in their propensity for the ridiculous. At Calgary’s Sled Island this summer, WMW took the stage dressed as Amish farmers, playing an unforgettable show complete with Jeppe playing his guitar expertly with a beer pitcher (appropriately drained of its contents throughout the show) and finishing with an open-invite dance party on stage. “We smashed the place,” Tomas declares, beaming. Playing for a North American audience is, in itself, an unpretentious act. WMW are HUGE in Europe. Going from sold out festivals, where crowds in the tens of thousands sing every lyric, to the basement of Dicken’s Pub in Calgary must be an exercise in humility. The boys, however, are unfazed. “People here maybe don’t know all the songs, but they are up for partying.” WMW definitely bring the party. You don’t have to be familiar with their music to dance your heart out at their live show (particularly when Tomas Barfod is teetering on the edge of the stage, thrusting his hips at the audience). Their elaborate stage costumes (they’ve performed in skeleton suits, harlequin costumes, women’s dresses, superhero outfits, etc.) are also completely disarming. Tomas explains, “If you are performing in regular rock and roll clothes you have to perform a lot. It’s easy to look over-serious. I feel the need to do silly stuff to show that we aren’t over-serious... It’s a big liberation.”
I consider numerous coma-inducing rock shows I’ve endured, shows where over-serious musicians stare at their feet while the audience sways in meerkat fashion, trying to appear nonchalant (I’m the one in the back guzzling vodka to stay awake). Tomas explains their unconventional image like this: “We are playful, we are all very paranoid about the stupid rock and roll photograph, and the stupid rock and roll video, and the stupid rock and roll stage show. I have this jacket (a fitted leather hipster essential) and everybody thinks it’s really cool, but I’m like oh, I look rock and roll, it’s very bad.” (At this point in our interview, Tomas tries to throw the rock and roll jacket out the door of our moving vehicle. Luckily the driver child-locked the SUV). WhoMadeWho have collaborated with contemporaries including Daft Punk, Soulwax, Hot Chip, Justice, LCD Soundsystem, and Josh Homme of Queens of the Stone Age. When I ask whom they’d like to work with in the future, they uniformly answer “Michael Jackson.” But seriously, “Prince, hearing Prince sing “Space for Rent” would be amazing.” Their goals are otherwise humble. Jeppe tells me, “[My goal is] to maintain this momentum, make records and go on tours, keep on with this lifestyle.” Tomas elaborates, “In 10 years or 20 years to still be inventive [and] feeling we are doing something that’s relevant, it’s so hard to grow old as a band, even the cool bands end up as a shadow of themselves. Imagine 50-year-old
guys making the album that everyone says is fucking genius?” Jeppe is impressed. “That is a beautiful dream.” I don’t think there is much risk of WMW becoming redundant; everything about them is original. The video for “Keep Me in My Plane” (go YouTube this right now) has won several international awards and is currently nominated for two UK Music Video Awards: “Best Alternative/ Indie” and “Best Art Direction.” Nevertheless, they won’t take credit; they direct all their praise to Good Boy! Creative from Denmark. “We said, here’s a song, do something.” Tomas, who stars in the video, is, however, proud that he was able to maintain a sombre face throughout. As we joke about the rodeo (they pronounce it ‘rodeyo’) and awkward house parties, I find it hard to imagine any of these jovial guys maintaining a straight face for very long. “It was amazing!” Jeppe assures me. Before I leave our interview, I feel it necessary to thank these amiable musicians for being “so so nice,” but they won’t let me have the last word, “you are also so nice!” they beam as I leave the hotel room. Not only have WhoMadeWho successfully dispelled my disdain for both funk and disco music; they have also reignited my faith in humanity. • *Tomas Barfod was not present for our interview as he was performing in Europe as TomBoy (his dj title).
change color life 11320 104 Ave NW Oliver Square 780.428.5888 getchromed.com Edmonton, AB
Jewellery on Charis by John James Jewelry
Shot on location at Scona Pool Shoot Direction by Kirby Feng Shoot Coordination and Concept by Caroline Gault Photography by Tri-Kiet Vuong Photo Editing and Processing by Clayton Didier Words by Caroline Gault Models: Diane Connors Meaghan Hipkin Samara Hipkin Charis Fossen Brendan Bachewich Mike Vanden Ham Hair by Salon Montage Makeup by Adrianne Thomson Body Art by David Maier Nude suits (worn by all): Tina Chan of Performing Star
Earth. Air. Fire. Water. And now, Parlour’s fifth element: Art. The Art of the photograph, the Art of the human body, and the Art of the collaborative creation. Parlour joins forces with Kirby Feng and his innovative team to bring you an underwater photo spread of epic proportions. Inspiring photographs with purpose, and at the heart of this narrative, a love story— of childhood memories, growth, and community. As City Council tries to close Scona Pool for the second time in the last year, Feng embarks on a heroic journey to save this 52-year-old facility through reaction, rebuttal, and an impassioned group of lobbyists. Providing a safe haven in his high school years, and life-altering experiences as a volunteer swim coach over the last 13 years, Scona Pool holds great meaning for Feng. Putting the pool on the chopping block, City Council looks forward to closing costly communal amenities in favour of erecting legacy buildings— larger, multiuse facilities that simultaneously cater to a wider demographic and uproot staple community resources. Now, in a powerful partnership between local artists, designers, and Parlour, Feng creates a legacy through art. We took six elite athletes and adorned them in exquisite jewellery and dress by some of our favourite local designers. Shot by world-renowned photographer Tri-Kiet Vuong, and edited by Clayton Didier, we’ve captured the essence of Scona Pool’s bearings and materialized the beauty these dedicated swimmers find in their medium, the water, everyday. As community pools foster the growth of thousands of students and families alike, teamwork is fundamental to Scona Pool’s survival. On November 27, at Edmonton’s Dynasty Century Palace Restaurant, Feng and the Save Scona Pool Action Team will host a fundraising banquet where large canvases of Vuong’s conceptual photographs will be auctioned. Funds raised will go towards the one-time purchase of pool equipment, and excess funds will be donated to charity. Like the collaboration that took place over these past seven months, this fifth and final element comes in many forms— be it in sport, design, business or politics— in a ripple effect, your Art can reach millions.
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Body Chains and Anklets on Charis, Meaghan, and Samara by Melncoly Designs | Armour on Mike by John James Jewelry
Dress on Samara by Jessica Halabi Fashions
Mermaid outfit on Diane by Suka Design
Dress on Charis by Sid Neigum Body Art on Brendan by David Maier
Crème
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de la Crème The very best—A collaboration between Alberta’s top models and designers. Photos Aaron Pedersen 3TEN
Hair Lauren Hughes and Kirsten Klontz from Mousy Browns Makeup Nickol Walkemeyer, Adrianne Thomson, and Jenelle Forde Stylist Carl Abad video at parlourlife.com
Alisha Schick SUKA DESIGN Words by Caroline Gault
“The best and the hardest thing about modelling is travelling. It is an amazing experience to be able to visit all the wonderful places that the world has to offer. From the beaches of California, the skyscrapers of New York, the foreign languages of Tokyo and to the high fashion of Paris, I hope to see it all one day.” —Kelsey Sirucek from Mode Models
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The first article ever written about Edmonton designer Alisha Schick ran with the headline, “Schick Happens.” Ten years later, Schick is still happening. “Ten years ago there was nothing in Edmonton,” says Ali. “There was no fashion week, no independent designers, no competitions, there was no real fashion. All the cool stores, except for Gravity Pope, weren’t [here yet]. It was pretty discouraging. We definitely had to make do with what we had.” Not only has this pioneer made do, but Suka Design is thriving. Selling in stores throughout Western Canada, including Edmonton’s Bamboo Ballroom, St. Albert’s Meese Clothing, and Vancouver’s Life of Riley, Suka has a dedicated following. The driving force behind Suka is Ali’s ability to soak up inspiration. Last season’s creations centred on myth, the Bride of Frankenstein, and the 50-foot woman. Her current collection is flushed with mod urbanity— structured, geometric shapes and bold lantern cutouts. “There is a darker side to [Suka], and I think that spawns from my tomboyish-ness and going through the whole punk-grunge-rave scene,” she explains. “I’m not ultra girly, I could never be. I like things to be strong and tailored, and well made. I try to stay away from embellishments.” Establishing Suka is an ongoing process, but with the help of independent designers and stores, who she says have “all grown together,” Ali’s captured a major pulse in Edmonton’s fashion scene. Paving the way for the next generation, Ali teaches Fashion Design & Apparel Production at Marvel College. She even taught a fellow Top Tenner, Sid Neigum, in 2008. Her wealth of knowledge is blatant: I’ve learned more about Edmonton’s fashion industry in the last 10 minutes of our interview than I have in my last 10 years as an Edmontonian. When I ask Ali about her teaching philosophy, she puts it simply, “Know your history. The history of art, the history of fashion, the history of one concept to the next. I always emphasize that when I’m teaching, and I really like having a strong concept before I start designing.” For Ali, another satisfying aspect of fashion design is seeing clients adorned in Suka— affirmation in its most honest form. “It’s always cool to see your demographic and your target market, and see who actually buys your stuff.” However, she prefers to remain anonymous. In one bizarre situation, an intern blurted out to a stylish pedestrian that Ali had designed her top. “I was super embarrassed and hid my face. I was like, ‘Nooo! Don’t tell her!’” She elaborates. “I know that design these days is about having a persona with the clothes— it’s like being a movie star, everyone wants to be associated with their work by their face and by their image, but I don’t feel like it should be that way. You should be a little bit more discreet.” If discretion is something Ali is going for, she’s taken a wrong turn. In another decade, I’m sure Alisha Schick will be nothing short of iconic. And she’s only 28-years-old.
Caitlin Power Words by Liam Rodgers
A relative newcomer to the industry, Caitlin Power has made a name for herself amongst Canada’s most talented young fashion designers. For her A/W 2010 collection, she focused her skills, refining an aesthetic that harmoniously melds near-alien architectural accents with soft, classic film-noir familiarity. Merlot, the colour imbuing much of the collection, contrasts subtly against raven-black, while touches of metallictinged leather create a feeling of galactic romance. By experimenting with volume, texture and structure, Caitlin’s current collection achieves depth— expertly constructed peak-shouldered blouses of sheer silk, and pants and skirts both hard and soft-edged, interplay with lace, leather, and velvet. This collection tells the story of a strong, confident woman— exactly the kind of client this young designer pulls inspiration from. It wasn’t until Caitlin completed fashion school and became involved with Calgary’s fashion scene that she truly experienced fashion. “I grew up in the suburbs of Calgary and never really ventured downtown. Once I finished high school, I went straight to fashion school in Lethbridge where I really started to learn about the technical aspects of fashion. After my graduation and return to Calgary, I became more aware of different ways of dressing, and layering, and how to add accessories.” For inspiration, Caitlin looks to a variety of sources. “Growing up, I would tear pictures out of magazines. I made an inspiration book of images showing pieces of clothing I admired.” How Caitlin’s inspirations have changed over the years is more a matter of progression, a realization that clothing design is often derived from sources not related to fashion. “I have a book of odds and ends including several architectural photographs, shapes and interesting patterns.” This isn’t to say that Caitlin doesn’t keep abreast of fashion; however, labels are not something that interests her: “I think ‘fashion’ is how you put together an outfit. [It’s not about] the brand name or how much it costs.” For Caitlin, luminous, fresh insight initiates the process of new work, but not before the “drawing board” is cleared. “Every new collection means starting from scratch,” states Caitlin. “I keep in mind my target market and a level of sophistication that needs to be met.” To view her work in succession, the sharpening of Caitlin’s designs is evident. Her increasingly fleshedout collections offer women beautiful, bold clothing that complements, not overshadows, the wearer. Caitlin is satisfied with the way her clothes integrate into the modern woman’s wardrobe, including her own. A red blouse from her S/S 2009 line is the first (and one of the few) pieces she’s kept for herself. Having already shown her work at several high-profile shows and events around Alberta, the acclaimed Caitlin Power continues to impress audiences with her technical abilities as well as her commitment to furthering local fashion— a cause we at Parlour can truly get behind.
On becoming a model: “I never thought about becoming a model until I suddenly was one. I had some insecurity issues.” On personal style: “In a small town, I’m fashionable. In New York, I’m just normal.” —Anna Carter from Mode Models
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Erin Ignacio AKA John James Words by Adrianne Thomson
On other models: “I never thought I’d fit into the modelling world, but they made me see that they’re regular girls - beautiful inside and out.” —Megan Martin from Mode Models
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John James (designed by Erin Ignacio) creates beyond the perfect statement piece, designing true works of art— jewellery women dream of being married, and buried in. With an established background in graphic design, Erin Ignacio’s creativity took a kinetic approach in the summer of 2009. Inspired by the incredible statement jewellery seen on runways worldwide (yet missing from the retail world), she wanted to be adventurous. Creating four statement pieces in the solitude of her Toronto home, she took a chance and presented her designs to her closest friends. Overwhelmed by their admiration and at their insistence, she completed an entire collection. Her inspiration lay within the personality and character traits of the women around her. “I wanted to give women the idea that they were beautiful creatures... because that had been given to me.” Initially designing under her given name, Erin felt the warm response of those closest to her, but also a glass ceiling of sorts as she found it difficult to get her pieces into stores and galleries. Taking the name of John James, the idea of designing under a pseudonym began as a sort of social experiment, but the impact was instantaneous. “In this world, you do what you have to do, to do what you love.” The name John James has become a mantra, a source of strength for Erin— the idea of designing for women as a man. Appearing on the pages of Flare, her jewellery has been flaunted in numerous editorials and creatives, and featured on the catwalks of Toronto Fashion Week (at their invitation). When I ask Erin about her favourite piece, her eyes shine. “The one I’m working on now. It’s a secondary piece to the one I’m wearing,” moving her hand up to graze her necklace, a beautiful marriage of quartz and gold chains. “I’m using seashells... and the easiest way for me to describe it, is to picture a mid-evil knight that married a mermaid and decided to create armour from the bottom of the sea.” A creative original, Erin describes her personal style as “a straight gaze.” Unsure of what she means by this, I ask her to elaborate. “I’m not into any genre but more the emotive aspects of what you can do with fashion... and it’s not like I’m a hipster.” Look forward to seeing more John James in the near future, but if you can’t take the wait and/or the anticipation is killing you, comfort yourself with the beauty of her website. www.akajohnjames.com
Jessica Halabi Words by Caroline Gault
Being one of Parlour’s Top Ten Designers could be a bore for Jessica Halabi. This gorgeous 23-yearold has appeared in virtually every Edmonton media outlet since winning Western Canada Fashion Week’s Emerging Designer Contest in 2007, in addition to features in FASHION Magazine and Teen Vogue. To my amazement, however, Jessica is a bit nervous during our interview. Either sufficiently shy, or exceptionally humble, she is altogether charming. Her designs, contrastingly, are bold and intrepid, perhaps an extension of her inner-self, the id personified by luxury— opulent gowns, intricate leather cutouts, and pastel fabrics dripping in paint. Her pieces are top quality and ultra-feminine, made for the “discriminative buyer,” and molded in the name of Art. Always a creative child, Jessica grew up in Forestburg, Alberta, home to less than 1000 people, where she constructed Barbie clothes out of Kleenex and rubber balloons, and concocted lip-gloss potions for her friends. “I was always into art and stuff, fine art, painting, and that’s the route I was almost headed,” Jessica explains. “I always had this deep-down passion for drawing dresses, though. It was kind of a secret thing— I used to sit in my room and sketch out all these amazing dresses that I wanted to wear.” Despite her prevalent interest in fashion, fine art seemed to be the more pragmatic path at graduation. Her decision to become a clothing designer was secondary and impulsive. “I always wanted to do fashion, but it’s not really realistic,” she says. “I was actually going to be an art teacher. I had this portfolio made for grad, but I changed my mind in the end and submitted the portfolio to fashion school instead.” With an impressive résumé of early successes, Jessica’s college days seem far off, insignificant even. Nevertheless, she looks back fondly on the time, and feels she was nurtured by Edmonton’s innocence. “I think if you were somewhere else that’s bigger and you were just pushed into the industry, it would be harder to make mistakes, [because] there’s bigger people to impress. Edmonton is a little bit nurturing because you’re kind of a big fish.” Showing at fashion shows throughout the country and selling at local boutiques including Edmonton’s Bamboo Ballroom and Calgary’s Melean Women’s Finery is rewarding for Jessica, however, it’s been difficult to motivate the public to embrace the extravagance of her designs at a wholesale level. “There’s respect for my brand, but people are scared to wear it,” she says, visibly perturbed. “My line appeals to somebody who doesn’t want regular clothes [...] they’re very particular […] these people aren’t safe, they want to shower themselves in beautiful clothes, especially if it’s handmade.” Not willing to compromise her aesthetic, or go for the easy sell, Jessica is determined. “It’s a high-end, luxurious brand,” she says. “And that’s how I want to keep it.” As our interview closes, I realize that the nervous girl who sat down beside me has evolved. Beneath an inhibited surface, Jessica Halabi is stubborn, driven, brave. Her artistic visions compel her, and her potential is frightening.
“I love the feeling of walking to the beat of the music and showing off the clothing with some attitude. I also love the rush backstage trying to get changed in enough time. I am a completely different person on the runway; all my style and personality comes out!” —Ciara Tucker from Mode Models
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Lael Osness Words by Liam Rodgers
On modelling inspiration: “I’m really inspired by Heather Marks. I love seeing a local girl be so successful.” On life outside of modelling: “When not in front of the lens, I love to spend time with my family, friends, two dogs, and one cat.” —Court Baker from Mode Models
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Lael Osness, freshman at Parsons School of Design in New York, has learned to forgo sleep in favour of pursing her dream career— fashion design. To complete her latest collection for A/W 2010, which debuted on the first day of Alberta Fashion Week, Lael spent the few hours unclaimed by her day job creating ceaselessly. Drawn largely from an era of assorted glamour, the early to mid 20th century, the collection captures the sophisticated allure of wartime fashions. Using fabrics ranging from wool to lace, with a bit of fur for good measure, Lael effectively explores the extravagant and practical: Parisianinspired pantsuits, belted fur-collar jackets, and a selection of airy, soft-silhouetted blouses paired with high-waisted trousers and skirts. The colour palette is rich with deep greens, browns, and ochres. Tall gloves, thin, divisive belts, and hats accessorize her nostalgic aesthetic. Though Lael’s current work is quite formal, her personal style varies depending on her mood. At times donning “hippie-ish” looks, Lael, who’s unconcerned with labels, also engages in smart/preppy dress, but always with a unique lean. Many of her favourite pieces are vintage, including a prized boxy 80’s “boyfriend blazer” by Oscar de la Renta. “My dream would be to intern at Marc Jacobs,” she says. However, she reverently cites Christian Lacroix as her biggest inspiration. Lacroix, the master couturiere who once sewed costume pieces for the opera, occupies a superhuman status for Lael, who grew up studying classical music and dreamt of someday performing as a vocalist on stage. Besides song, as a child, Lael learned sewing from her mother. “My mom was also into fashion and a talented seamstress,” says the North Dakota-born designer, who appreciates the solid, sensible background that growing up in a rural area has afforded her. However, don’t be fooled, she’s no “townie.” Having spent time in New York, Lael enjoys much of what “the big city” has to offer. “Along with my friends and their style, I’m inspired by old movies, music, and of course, fashion.” One visit to Lael’s blog and you’ll understand: favoured editorial shoots, runway shows, vintage magazine covers, and creative ads, as well as some interesting commentary written by the designer herself (www. laelosness.blogspot.com). For the socially conscious, multi-talented Lael, making a commitment to fashion has been an ongoing process. With a background in Political Science and humanitarian experience building orphanages in Mexico, she muses, “[I] sometimes feel guilty about going into fashion. I wonder, how can I be different? How can I make a difference?” The answers lie in Lael’s diverse experiences and her rich, immediate future: beginning this fall, she will receive training from some of the world’s best instructors at Parson’s.
Lauren Bagliore Words by Liam Rodgers
Finding an eye-catching, finger-pleasing fabric is where Lauren Bagliore’s process begins. Next, she gets hands-on, expertly draping the cloth over her veteran dress form, manipulating the fabric into peaks and vales— using methods more akin to sculpting than traditional fashion design Born in New York, Lauren grew up on Long Island, where she had the unique experience of being a kid embroiled in all forms of youthful neighbourhood activity—including road hockey—while 30-minutes drive away, the stylish streets of Manhattan bustled without pause. Even as a child, the big city’s energy, manifested by the sometimes garish, but always stimulating sights, sounds, and of course, smells, was never far from Lauren’s mind. At 17, with a strong interest in fashion, the girl unafraid to roll up her sleeves was now among the passionate and talented attendees of Manhattan’s Fashion Institute of Technology, which proved a career-launching springboard with a range into the heavens of high fashion. Beginning with Tod’s, the highly luxurious and established shoe and accessory label, Lauren got her first taste of fashion’s business-side working in public relations for the venerable Italian brand. Additionally, Lauren gained valuable experience as a New York area fashion buyer and stylist. Wielding a versatile skill-set, and a mastery of fashion’s fundamentals, she possessed the credentials to make an impression at Vivienne Westwood. She spent six months working at a “dream job” with postings in London, and parts of Italy, the country producing Westwood’s clothes. Back in New York, Lauren continued to hone her skills, learning the finer points of construction under Zac Posen. Currently, in the name of love, Lauren resides with her husband in Calgary (his hometown), a seemingly odd city for the fashion specialist to launch her namesake label. “The community is so supportive here,” she says, referring to Calgary’s open-minded fashion loyalists. In her light, spacious studio located in Calgary’s design-conscious community of Inglewood, Lauren gains inspiration during quiet mornings. A designer who creates what she likes—feminine clothes with an edge—her work is confident and experimental. “My personal clients are really excited about the different ways that they can wear my clothes,” she smiles. The expertly crafted pieces from her A/W 2010 collection are unique in their versatility, while the mainly dark colour palette tastefully downplays the clothing’s high level of detail. Believing she, “can’t be everything to everyone” as a designer, Lauren stays true to herself, creating fashion undiluted by trends, and unchanged by her own global position. An uncompromising designer, Lauren is equally passionate in her pursuit to heighten awareness of human trafficking, particularly when the victims are children. “I want to give these kids a voice. For this (human trafficking) to stop, value must be restored to human life.” In forwarding her “Fashion from the Heart” philosophy, for every piece of clothing sold, Lauren makes a donation toward ending human sex trade in Cambodia and Asia.
On her favourite aspect of modelling: “The creativity involved in the industry. Whether it be a photographer, designer [or a] makeup artist, each of them have their own unique creative visions. I feel truly honoured to be a part of that.” On hobbies: “Photography! My Nikon D40 is my prized possession. I take it with me everywhere.” —Jessica Desbrisay from Mode Models
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On personal style: “I can’t stick to one thing. I get bored too easily!” On life outside of modelling: “Snowboarding, running, yoga, being with friends and family, and watching movies.” — Kim Mccullough from Mode Models
Malorie Urbanovitch Words by Adrianne Thomson
Q: What do you get when you take an accomplished stylist, school her in textiles design and film studies, mix in a fabulous textured fabric and feed the process with a network of creative and supportive friends? A: The brilliant, beautiful fashions of Malorie Urbanovitch, that’s what. Over breakfast, I sat down with the woman wonder to discuss her life and the process that has taken her into “one to watch” status. Always harbouring a love for fashion, Malorie began to pursue her passion for design with commissioned work in her second year in the University of Alberta’s Human Ecology department, where she majored in textile design. Her school projects consisted primarily of painting on silk. From garments to tapestries, the complicated methodology behind painting silk demanded her to think in reverse and plan ahead. Graduating into different methods and materials, Malorie remains primarily self-taught with trial and error as her guide. Malorie’s first experience showing a collection was a collaboration with local artists, hosted at Edmonton landmark—Teddy’s restaurant—Mallory showed 25 original pieces, all constructed in the month before the event. It was after this first collection that Malorie began to take designing seriously. With multiple layers and intricate textures, Malorie’s current collection succeeds in transcending seasons and redefining knitwear. She designs as if every piece were for her. “It’s whatever I want to be wearing. I try not to overthink or overstyle. I’ve always chosen the simple over the complex. I think people look the best in things that are not too involved or complicated.” Malorie’s designs are deeply connected to the fabric from which they are constructed. “Designing is really dependent on what the textile is like.” Currently Malorie is obsessed with “hairy and heavy fabric and knitwear.” She draws inspiration from literature, art, architecture and the cinema. With just one year left in a Film Studies degree, movies have become a source of insight and inspired an interest in costume design. “It’s hard to image just doing one thing. I want to write, make films, create clothes... People say that in order to be successful you have to focus on one thing and you can’t dabble... but I like to dabble.”” Malorie is a key figure in Edmonton’s fashion community, her work as a stylist keeps her on the go, view her work in the recent pages of National magazine.
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Nina Rahal-Kharey House of Nonie Words by Andrea Dorrans
Think Pris (Darryl Hannah, Blade Runner, circa 1982) meets the Wicked Witch of the East at an after-work cocktail party in Gotham City. The House of Nonie A/W 2010 collection is fearless. Nina Rahal-Kharey designed this collection, JR Holiday, her fourth to date, as a tribute to her brother, Jassy Rahal, who fell victim to gang violence in 2005. “It was pretty emotional for me to constantly think of his personality and align it with my style, but the visions and ideas came flowing. I designed 15 looks in about two days.” The extremely wearable (despite my post-apocalyptic, sci-fi visual) collection evokes feminine strength. Boxy blazers, tailored trousers and pencil skirts for day, and playful mini-dresses for night— beautiful blacks accented with flirty metallics and perfectly odd pairings of fabrics. Nina, who works by day as a computer engineer, grew up around design. Her mother worked as a designer for a clothing manufacturer and her father managed a knitting company. As a young girl, Nina sewed often. Beginning with traditional Indian dresses, she ventured into shirts and trousers in junior high. However, it wasn’t until she lost her brother in 2005 that she really considered design as a career. “[Jassy] always did what he wanted. He went on trips, bought cars ... his life was short, but he definitely lived it.” Inspired by Jassy’s free spirit, Nina began HON two years ago. I’m amazed by what she has accomplished. In addition to the HON and her day job as an engineer, Nina volunteers with the Calgary Police Gang Unit (getalife.ca) educating teenagers and their parents on signs of gang violence. “It takes so little for a kid to get sucked into a bad lifestyle, but with leaders who have open hearts and minds, there’s hope... Everyone needs to remember that troubled kids need our help and they can have any background, come from any family. But it takes one wrong turn... They don’t need our judgment.” Balancing a hectic schedule can be trying, but Nina is learning to prioritize and plans to take it easier next season. “I’m working on my S/S 2011 collection, which I will be limiting to about eight to 10 looks. It’s been a very exhausting two years for me and I want to make this one simple and timeless.” She may be exhausted, but you wouldn’t guess it from the way her eyes sparkle when she muses about the future of HON. “I got to take [the JR Holiday] collection to Toronto and have the first HON runway show out there... Toronto may be the next selling point for HON!” I suggest you head to Calgary’s Coco & Violet and purchase a House of Nonie cocktail dress immediately, not only will you be wearing it season in and out, it may become a collector’s item.
On personal style: “I’m a big fan of pockets and zippers.” On life outside of modelling: “I just got a job at the dollar store… its sweet! I like hanging out with my friends and just kicking back. Anything outdoors is always fun!” — Rena Donaldson from Mode Models
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Sid Neigum
Words by Caroline Gault
“So. Drayton Valley.” “Is that a question?” Sid Neigum eyes me inquisitively. “Yeah,” I nod. He smiles. “I think I get you.”
On personal style: “On personal style: “Kind of Gossip Girl meets hipster.” On life outside of modelling: “Hanging out with friends, playing basketball or volleyball, and watching hockey.” — April Kargaard from Mode Models
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As interviewer and interviewee, both born and raised in Drayton Valley—a modest town of 7000 southwest of the city—we are connected. Today, in Sid’s pocket-sized, perfectly haphazard design studio on Edmonton’s 104th Street, it is his magical world of dark, unconventional fashion that brings us together. Sid wears his signature handmade leather jacket, and a marked strip of hair falls like a mane across one side of his head. Channelling the twisted playdough antagonist in Toy Story, he changed his name to stand apart from the other Jon Neigum’s out there (there are 50 in his family tree alone). He laughs a little when he talks of this “transitional phase,” explaining that he’s often misunderstood because of his atypical career choices. His sense of humour is endearing and echoed in his designs (a loud Tetris print danced across the runways last spring). He even laughed his way to New York City this past September to attend the world-renowned Fashion Institute of Technology. After winning Western Canada Fashion Week’s Emerging Designer contest, Skyping in from the Big Apple for interviews on Alberta Primetime, and being asked to show his collection at Vancouver Fashion Week this November, 22-year-old Sid is sitting pretty in late 2010. “I was always interested in clothing, even as young guy,” he reflects. “I really looked forward to driving into Edmonton with my mom and going shopping. At that point, I didn’t really think of fashion as a career option. I just thought, I’m really interested in buying cool clothes […] I didn’t even really realize that people did it for a living.” “My first piece was a v-neck t-shirt,” he says, “and [I made it] in order to get into Marvel [College]. I’d never made anything at that point, so I got a sewing lesson from one my mom’s friends and she helped me make the shirt the day before [the deadline]. It wasn’t so good,” he laughs, “but [the program coordinator] seemed to think it was okay to get in.” Sid’s current designs are exponentially more complex than a simple t-shirt, and you certainly won’t find anything like them at the mall. Looking to those hailed designers who combine fashion and performance art, such as Gareth Pugh and Alexander McQueen, one of Sid’s most impressive creations is a 300-pound dress made completely of old tires, fastened together with screws, grommets, and ribbon. The guy doesn’t fit into a tidy little box and it feels as though he’s ready to burst from this tiny room. His style is unprecedented; his mandate is to be authentic, for his differences lie in his artistic eye and self-expression is getting him noticed.
Tung Vo Mananoshe
Words by Andrea Dorrans
“I’m not a fashion designer.” Tung Vo is humble, borderline shy, immensely talented. “I’m an apparel designer; that’s it.” For over two years Tung and his sister Thanh have operated Songkla— Calgary’s hippest streetwear shop. Debuting on 17th avenue, above a Le Château and a dollar-slice pizza joint, Songkla was the real thing in the wrong place. Following a standard retail model, Songkla carried a selection of creative clothing labels interspersed with original pieces designed and constructed by Tung under the house line— Mananoshe. I recall browsing the racks when the shop first opened, running my fingers along the crisp fabric and strong stitches of a Mananoshe jacket. The construction was remarkable, the design simple and sophisticated. It was the type of jacket you might have for 20 years without it falling apart or out of style. However, the Calgary retail landscape was characteristically boorish and Songkla failed to thrive. Shoppers bypassed the high-quality Mananoshe designs in favour of crudely constructed, mass-produced pieces at Le Château. Nevertheless, the brother and sister duo were not dismissed; they closed shop and reinvented. Focusing on Mananoshe, Tung decided to do what he loves— design quality garments. Songkla recently reopened in the former Artlife location on 1st Street SW, in Calgary’s Beltline. The location is less retail, less polished, but more poetic. The large open space displays Mananoshe and works as a studio for design and construction. “We’re not salespeople. We’re not selling anything. [This space is] very relaxed. If you buy something, great; I’d rather have it on somebody who loves it.” When I ask Tung to describe “urban streetwear,” he’s hesitant. “At the end of the day it’s very hard to describe... it stems from people not affording huge labels, but wanting those looks and putting together something interesting [with the resources they have].” Tung is a fan of layering, juxtaposed elements, and surprising combinations of fabric and cut. “The Mananoshe A/W 2010 collection comprises items that I see myself and other guys wearing. The goal is and always will be to have the clothes be exciting but not loud, modern yet timeless.” In addition to his signature jackets and shirts, Tung is exploring moccasins and shoes. He recently won second place in an art show/design competition: Art & Sole. Forty artists reinterpreted 40 pairs of PF flyers. “As a designer, my first instinct was to deconstruct and rebuild the shoes in different materials. The inspiration came from the ‘look’ of the Viet Cong. I used vintage leather and a Vietnamese conical hat.” Tung Vo fascinates me, his humble demure and obvious talent suggest a designer of great complexity. Songkla, I learn, shares its name with the Thai refugee camp that Tung and his family lived in for two years back in the 80s. “[The name] Songkla represents a bridge… hope for a better future.” The store Songkla, I think, represents hope for a better future too (kick the malls to the curb, Calgary).
On his favourite aspect of the industry: “Meeting new people is the cliché, but it’s truly one of the best parts of the job. Travelling is also a huge perk that gives me the opportunity to get out and see new places.” On personal style: “Nothing like a good v-neck or a cardigan.” — Lowell Tautchin from Mode Models
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Photography by Clayton Didier of Didier Photography Styling by Carl Abad, Stylist Assistant Adriana Sveen Stephen Kroeger, Liam Kronlund and Robbie Edwards from Mode Models Hair by Michael Campbell, Candace Pearson andVicki Frame from Volume Beauty Bar (Calgary)
All photos were taken along the beautiful Bow River, one of the top three rivers to fish in the world. Courtesy of Hanson’s Fishing Outfitters, Parlour spent a glorious day in and out of this flowing body of water, side by side with large rainbow and under the graceful shade of the Bow River valley canopy Stephen: DSquared2 Jacket from Holt Renfrew, Fuller Plaid Button-up Shirt from Hanson’s Fishing Outfitters, Scarf from Crown Surplus, Timberland Boots from Gravity Pope, Prps denim from Henry, Socks from Mark’s Liam: Etro jacket from Harry Rosen, Pendleton Plaid Button-Up Shirt from Hanson’s Fishing Outfitters, Gucci V-Neck Sweater from Holt Renfrew, DH3 cargo pants from Mark’s, Frye Boots from Gravity Pope Robbie: Naked & Famous Jeans from Leo Boutique, Paul Smith Sweater from Holt Renfrew, Quoddy Boots from Gravity Pope, Filson Bag & Scarf from Hanson’s Fishing Outfitters
Robbie: Diesel Shirt from Henry, Waffle Shirt from Crown Surplus, Vest from Hanson’s Fishing Outfitters, DH3 pants from Mark’s Liam: DH3 jeans from Mark’s, Jill Sanders Sweater from Holt Renfrew Stephen: Shirt from The Gallery, D&G Vest from Holt Renfrew, Pants from Crown Surplus
Stephen: Pendleton Shirt from Hanson’s Fishing Outfitters, Waders from Hanson’s Fishing Outfitters Liam: Prps jeans from Henry (on shore)
Robbie: Wings & Horn Shorts from Henry, DH3 Shirt from Mark’s, Hat from Holt Renfrew Liam: Acne jeans from Henry, Hunter Rubber Boot from Gravity Pope, Nudie denim jacket from Henry, Diesel Plaid Shirt from Henry, J Lindeberg Sweater from Leo, Toque from Crown Surplus
Liam: Cargo Pant from Crown Surplus, Nudie Plaid Shirt from Holt Renfrew, J Lindeberg Sweater from Leo Stephen: Prps Jeans from Henry, DH3 Shirt from Mark’s, J Lindeberg Shirt from Leo
IZM – International award-winning furniture design inspired by the prairies
The Parlour, derived from the French verb parlez, is the finest room in the home. It is the audience chamber; a gathering space for friends and family to celebrate contemporary culture, fashion, art, and music. A forum for creative expression and thought, Parlour HOME will feature the personalities and philosophies behind the home. Artistic homes, celebrity homes, designer homes, extravagant homes, fashionable homes, green homes, retro homes— our premiere Parlour HOME issue will cater to the voyeur in everyone. Because style is not simply about attire; fashion is culture and culture is fashion.
Brett Wilson – Peer into Calgary’s dragon’s den
COVER Photo Clayton Didier Fashion Stylist Carl Abad Home Stylist Liz Nandee Basic Black Designs Inc Model Kelsey Sirucek from Mode Models Hair and Makeup by Erica Piebiek from Artist Within Gucci dress from Holt Renfrew Alexis Bittar jewellery from Rubaiyat (Calgary) IZM (top) Photo Gravy of gravedangerphotography Model Chelsey Smith Hair Blunt Salon Makeup Ruth Bancroft BRETT WILSON (bottom) Photo by Clayton Didier
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01 Falklands Think About It Edmontonian band FALKLANDS’ new release ‘Think About It’ is guaranteed to keep your toes wiggling. Available on vinyl lp or digital download.
Caviar anyone? Gush over south sea pearls in downtown Calgary’s Fashion Central.
02 Dairy Lane
Edmonton band, The Provincial Archives, debuts with their album ‘Nameless Places’. Let these Alberta-bred boys chime you into wistful, country bliss.
We love Diary Lane for its support of local producers, its continued dedication to creating community, and its open arms. Everything here is amazing… no exaggeration. dairylane.ca
3 Salgado Fenwick Childhood friends create wearable art in unprecedented fairytale fashion.
07 The Provincial Archives ‘Nameless Places’
08 Mayor Naheed Nenshi We’ve never had a politician as one of our Favourite’s before, but Calgary’s new muslim Mayor went to Harvard for his masters and at only 38 years-old, is already making news around the world.
09 Dead City Radio Hosted by Whiskey Wagon’s elusive frontman, Landon Barrowman, Dead City Radio is an underground podcast that plays the best local Deadmonton folk, punk, and hardcore. houseoexcess.com/deadcity
10 Tubby Dog From peanut butter and Captain Crunch to a fried egg and ham, anything goes at Tubby Dog. Not only is it a great place to get a dog and people watch, Tubby Dog also puts on theme nights during the week and bands on the weekends. Could it get any better?
salgadofenwick.com
04 Painted Tights Dress up the LBD with painted tights by local designer, Jessica Halabi. Adorable. Available at Bamboo Ballroom.
05 Elm Cafe One of a kind sammies, soups, and premium coffee served with big heart in a tiny Edmonton cafe. elmcafe.ca
11 Nicola Inman, Etsy: jesuisunefemme Hand-crafted, high-waisted belts, hella-hot, made right here in Edmonton. Bet you can’t pick just one!
12 Prarie Feast A gastronomical guide to prairie cuisine at its finest.
shopping guide
Pout Clothing Pout is an innovative women’s line designed for the modern fashionable woman. Each garment is designed as a staple, a must have item. Pout strives to not only provide you with the most update fashions but to prove you with 100% Canadian garments. All textiles are bought from Canadian textile mills, and are manufactured in Calgary AB. POUT designs available online at poutclothing. com or Under The Bridge Fashions: 36 4 Street Northeast Calgary AB
Photography: Gifty Kya Models: Kelsey Kiki Mayes Annie MacLellan MUA:Kesar Lacroix