"Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening." _Coco chanel
Haute Ligature / © 2013 Padcha Supanimit Academy of Art University / MFA School of Graphic Design SIZE
11"x17"
DESIGN & WRITING
PADCHA SUPANIMIT
PADCHA SUPANIMIT
ILLUSTRATION
TYPEFACE
LIPSTICK,HONEY SCRIPT,DK CANNED WHALE, OMNES
SOFTWARE
ADOBE CREATIVE SUITE 5
PRINTER
GIANT HORSE PRINTING, INC.
1336 SAN MATEO AVENUE SOUTH SAN FRANCISCO, CA 94080
Tel + 650 875 7137
www.gianthorse.com email: info@gianthorse.com BINDING
THE KEY PRINTING AND BINDING
1934 PARK BOULEVARD, SUITE A,
OAKLAND, CA 94606
Tel + 650 875 7137
www.thekeyprintingandbinding.com ADDRESS
737 POST ST. APT. 1024
SANFRANCISCO, CA 94109
Tel +1 415 490 8903
PADCHAV4@GMAIL.COM
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form by any electronic or mechanical means (including photocopying, recording or information storage and retrieval) without permission in writing from the author.
4
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
5
8
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
The place where
TYPOGRAPHY
met fashion
IGATURE L E HAUT
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
9
10
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE, A UNIQUE CLOTHING STORE WITH HUMBLE ORIGIN, BY A YOUNG DESIGNER FOR ALL TYPE LOVERS. WE CREATE DRESS DESIGNS THAT ARE MADE BY PASSION AND LOVE OF TYPOGRAPHIC ART. ALLOW ME TO OPEN THE DOOR AHD TAKE YOU TO WHERE IT ALL BEGAN...
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
11
12
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HI! THIS IS ME, ARIEL.
A GRAPHIC DESIGN STUDENT WHO IS TOTALLY IN LOVE
WITH TYPOGRAPHY . I'M A BIG FAN OF FASHION.MY LOVE OF TYPE RUNS DEEP IN MY FAMILY. MY MOTHER NAMED ME ARIEL AFTER HER FAVORITE FONT, ARIAL. THIS IS STORY OF MY DREAM THAT COMES TRUE. MY STORY BEGANS IN A FAR, FAR AWAY LAND, WHERE ART, FASHION AND TYPOGRAPHIC DESIGN FUSE TOGETHER.
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
13
I NEVER SAID MY WORK IS EASY.
14
LATE AT NIGHT, BUT I'M STILL WORKING.
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
ONE NIGHT, ARIEL WAS BURNING THE MIDNIGHT OIL TO MEET HER ASSIGNMENT’S DEADLINE IN THE MORNING. SHE STARTED TO DOZE OFF AND THEN FELL ASLEEP.
IT TOOK A LOT OF TIME AND EFFORT.
JUST WANT TO REST MY EYES FOE A SEC.
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
15
“IS THIS REAL LIFE, OR AM I DREAMING? “WHY AM I WALKING ON A CLOTHES LINE IN MIDDLE OF THE RAIN?” “I NEED TO WAKE UP, FAST! I’VE GOT A LOT OF WORK TO DO BEFORE TOMORROW” IN HER DREAM, ARIEL WALKED EACH STEP WITH DIFFICULTY AND TRIED HER BEST TO STAY BALANCED. SUDDENLY, SHE TRIPPED FROM THE ROPE AND STARTED TO FALL. THEN SHE FOUND HERSELF FALLING DOWN A VERY DEEP HOLE.
16
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
17
DOWN... DOWN... DOWN... SHE FELT LIKE THE FALL WOULD NEVER END. SHE GLIMPSED A FEW STRANGE ALPHABETS WHILE FALLING. 18
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
In my dream,
I'M FALLING DOWN THE RABBIT HOLE TO A STRANGE LAND.
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
19
ARIEL FINALLY LANDED ON A SOFT PATCH OF GRASS. “THAT’S STRANGE, IT DIDN’T HURT AT ALL” THE FIRST THING THAT SHE SAW WAS A GIGANTIC CITY GATE WITH THE INITIALS “H” AND “L,” AND SHE WONDERED WHERE IT CAME FROM.
20
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
21
SUDDENLY, A MYSTERIOUS FIGURE POPPED UP FROM A BUSH! “HELLO, I’M ROCKWELL THE RABBIT. HOW DO YOU DO? YOU MUST BE ARIEL, THE ARTIST WE WERE WAITING FOR. COME WITH ME, I WILL BE YOUR TOUR GUIDE TO THE WONDERFUL KINGDOM OF HAUTE LIGATURE, THE PLACE WHERE TYPOGRAPHY IS AT THE HEART OF EVERYTHING.
22
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
23
“SEE THAT TREE? IT BEARS ALPHABET FRUITS. IT CHANGES TO A DIFFERENT TYPEFACE IN DIFFERENT SEASONS.
Haute ligature is the wonderland where type is alive where type is evrywhere it is in nature and it is in fashion “THAT’S THE LETTER BEES; THEY'RE BUZZING AROUND IN BLOSSOM FLOWER FIELDS, LOOKING FOR NECTAR. BE CAREFUL! DON’T GET TOO CLOSE. THEY ARE KNOWN FOR THEIR TEMPER.
“DON’T FORGET THE UMBRELLA WHEN IT RAINS—NOT ONLY WOULD YOU GET WET FROM THE RAINDROPS, BUT THE LETTER ‘T’ WOULD DROP IN YOUR FACE TOO.
“EVERY TIME A THREAD IS LEFT BEHIND, IT CURLS INTO A WORD. NOBODY KNOWS HOW IT HAPPENS, BUT IT ALSO HAPPENS TO THE EARPHONES IN YOUR POCKET!” 24
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
“HERE IS OUR PROUDEST MAIN ATTRACTION, THE LETTER-GO-ROUND. FOR 50 CENTS, YOU CAN RIDE ANY LETTER HORSES FOR TWO ROUNDS.
“IF YOU'RE TOO TRIED TO WALK, WHY DON’T YOU RIDE ON A BIKE? THE WHEELS MIGHT LOOK DIFFERENT AND THE RIDE IS BUMPY, BUT EVERYONE LOVES TO RIDE AROUND.
“AMAZING! DID YOU SEE THAT LITTLE ‘S’ THAT APPEARED WHEN THE SODA POPS. THAT ADDS EXTRA FIZZING TO YOUR DRINK.
“MOST OF THE TIME FLOWERS AND TREES HERE GROW INTO WEIRD SHAPES. CAN YOU FIGURE OUT WHAT THEY ARE TRYING TO SAY?
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
25
26
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
Rockwell took ariel to see things around town They wandered through labyrinths of typography Ariel was fascinated by what she saw typeface that normally she only saw lying flat in two dimensions became alive and looked so colorful at haute ligaturE
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
27
“THE SOUND OF MUSIC? WHERE IS THAT COMING FROM?” “FOLLOW ME, THE PARADE IS JUST STARTING, LET’S GO.” ROCKWELL HELD ARIEL’S HAND AND GUIDED HER THROUGH THE CROWD.
28
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
29
HAUTE LIGATURE LAND WAS CELEBRATING ITS 70TH YEAR
AN NI V
30
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
ANNIVERSARY OF WHEN TYPE AND FASHION FIRST MET.
ERSARY
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
31
32
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
LONG TIME AGO, IN 1943,ON THE COVER OF LIFE MAGAZINE A MEMBER OF THE AIR CORP GUNNERY SCHOOL APPEARED, WEARING PERHAPS THE FIRST PRINTED TSHIRT. MANY CONSIDER THIS TO BE THE FIRST USE OF TYPOGRAPHIC ART IN FASHION. PRINTING TYPES OR WORDS ONTO GARMENTS WAS SOMETHING THAT HAD NEVER BEEN DONE BEFORE, AND SINCE THEN IT HAS BECOME A TREND, EVEN HITTING MAINSTREAM FASHION. TYPOGRAPHY IN FASHION MOVED FROM THE HUMBLE ORIGIN OF A LABEL FOR A MILITARY UNIFORM, BUT THEN CHANGED FASHION AND EVOLVED THROUGH TIME.
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
33
“FASHION? TYPOGRAPHY?" “FASHION AND TYPOGRAPHY? HOW ARE THOSE EVEN CONNECTED TO EACH OTHER? ARE YOU SAYING YOU’RE WEARING CLOTHES THAT WERE MADE FROM TYPE? HOW IS THAT POSSIBLE?”
34
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
“ACTUALLY, FASHION AND TYPOGRAPHY HAVE SHARED SOME CONNECTION AND INFLUENCED EACH OTHER FOR A VERY LONG TIME. SHALL WE TURN
BACK THE CLOCK A LITTLE? I WILL EXPLAIN THAT TO YOU.
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
35
ROCOCO “LET’S BEGIN WITH AGE OF ROCOCO. BACK THEN, TYPE DESIGN WAS OVERLY ELEGANT. THERE WERE FLORID FONTS AND TYPES THAT WERE DESIGNED WITH A WIDE RANGE OF DECORATIVE ELEMENTS. ART AND DESIGN WERE BOTH CRAZED ABOUT CURVES, NATURAL PATTERNS, AND ASYMMETRICAL DESIGNS. IT WAS THE SAME AS WITH FASHION, WHICH WAS ALSO A SPECTACLE! THE LADIES LOVED WIDE SKIRTS AND OVERDOSED ON EMBROIDERY, LACE, AND RIBBON.
36
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
37
38
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
ART NOUVEAU “OUR NEXT STOP IS THE END OF 19TH CENTURY AND RISE OF ART NOUVEAU. TYPOGRAPHY OFTEN CONTAINED LETTERS THAT WERE ELONGATED, EMBELLISHED, AND FEMININE IN NATURE. THE ART NOUVEAU STYLE WAS INSPIRED BY THE CURVED LINES OF THE ORGANIC SHAPES FOUND IN NATURE. THE UNIQUE STYLES OF THIS ERA ALSO APPEARED IN FASHION. FASHION WAS LOST IN THE COMPLEXITY OF DIVERSE SKIRTS, SLEEVES, HATS, AND OTHER ACCESSORIES. THE FASHIONABLE SILHOUETTE BECAME MORE LITHE, FLUID, AND SOFT.
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
39
40
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
ART DECO “IF ART NOUVEAU WAS ABOUT FINDING BEAUTY IN ORGANIC INTRICACY, ART DECO WAS PERHAPS ABOUT FINDING BEAUTY IN GEOMETRIC SIMPLICITY. NOW WE ARE LOOK AT THE BEGINNING OF THE 20TH CENTURY. INDUSTRIAL DESIGNERS AND GRAPHIC DESIGNERS MADE EVERYTHING AERODYNAMIC. THE TYPEFACE OF THE ART DECO ERA WAS A GEOMETRIC SAN-SERIF TYPE. THE MOST COMMON TYPEFACES WERE AVANT GARDE, FUTURA, AND KABEL. THIS WAS A PERIOD OF IMMENSE SOCIAL UPHEAVAL FOR WOMEN. THIS WAS ALSO A PERIOD OF GREAT EXPERIMENTS IN FASHION. INNOVATIVE SEAM DRAPING, FABRICS, AND BEADS WERE CALLED UPON, AND THE SILHOUETTE WAS BASICALLY TUBULAR.
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
41
POST WAR “AFTER 1950, MANY DESIGNERS BEGAN TO EXPLORE A WIDE RANGE OF STARTING POINTS AS A BASIS, USING SAN SERIF DESIGNS FROM ROMAN AND GREEK LETTERING TO CELTIC MANUSCRIPTS IN ORDER TO CREATE MODERN SANS TYPEFACES. THEY BECAME MODELS FOR MODERN ALPHABETS. WITH FORM FAR REMOVED FROM A PURELY CONSTRUCTIONIST PRINCIPLE.
“IN THE POST-WAR ERA, WOMEN AND FASHION MOVED TOWARDS A MORE FEMININE LOOK. CHRISTIAN DIOR INTRODUCED THE NEW LOOK IN 1946. THIS LOOK FEATURED LONG HEMLINES, NARROW SHOULDERS, AND CLOSELY FITTED BODICES AND FULL, CRINOLINE SKIRTS. IN MANY WAYS, THIS LOOK RESEMBLED THE FASHIONS OF THE EARLY VICTORIAN ERA, WHICH WAS ALSO A PERIOD THAT FOCUSED ON DOMESTICITY. WE SHOULD SAY THAT BOTH TYPOGRAPHY AND FASHION WERE LOOKING BACK TO THE FUNDAMENTALS, TAKING SOME INSPIRATION AND THEN MODERNIZING THE DESIGN TO FIT WITH THE NEW POST-WWII WORLD.”
42
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
43
“I GOT IT, ROCKWELL. FASHION AND TYPOGRAPHY SEEM TO HAVE INFLUENCED EACH OTHER FOR A LONG TIME; I JUST HAVE NEVER NOTICED THIS INVISIBLE CONNECTION. “COULD YOU SHOW ME THE LATEST FASHION TRENDS IN HAUTE LIGATURE? I WOULD LOVE TO SEE WHAT THE GIRLS ARE WEARING HERE.” “IN THIS KINGDOM WE BELIEVE EACH TYPEFACE HAS ITS OWN UNIQUE PERSONALITY. THE VARIOUS TYPEFACES REFLECT DIFFERENT, UNIQUE LIFESTYLES. WOMEN HERE IN HAUTE LIGATURE DRESS IN DIFFERENT TYPEFACES THAT FIT WITH THEIR STYLES. LET ME SHOW YOU SOME EXAMPLES”
44
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
45
46
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
47
48
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
CASLON DESIGNED BY WILLIAM CASLON, 1692–1766
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
49
50
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
THE CASLON GIRL
THE CASLON GIRL REFLECTS THE PERSONALITY OF THE CASLON TYPEFACE, WHICH APPEARS TRADITIONAL, STABLE, PRACTICAL, SERIOUS, FORMAL, SCHOLARLY, CORPORATE, AND BUSINESS-LIKE. DRESSES WHOSE DESIGNS WERE INFLUENCED BY CASLON HAVE SILHOUETT LOOK GRAND AND ELEGANT. BECAUSE CASLON IS A SERIF FONT, THE SHAPE OF SERIF WAS USED WHEN THE UNIQUE CAP SLEEVES WERE DESIGNED. A SCULPTURAL DESIGN OF DRESS REDESIGNS THE BODY CONTOUR, BROADENS THE SHOULDERS, AND MAKES THE WEARER LOOK MORE ELEGANT AND CONFIDENT. THESE ARE DRESSES DESIGNED TO FIT THE PERSONALITIES OF CASLON GIRLS.
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
51
52
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
53
54
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
55
56
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
57
58
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
59
60
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
61
62
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
63
64
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
COOPER BLACK
DESIGNED BY Oswald Bruce , 1921
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
65
THE COPPER BLACK GIRL
COPPER BLACK IS TYPEFACE THAT LOOKS ROUND AND CHUBBY, SOMEHOW REMINDING ME OF THE SHAPE OF A BALLOON. A GIRL WHO WEARS COPPER BLACK STYLE FASHION IS THE SWEETEST GIRL YOU COULD EVER MEET. SHE LOVES CUTE STUFF AND ANIMALS. SHE LOVES TO GO OUT TO PICNIC IN THE PARK OR HAVE A VINTAGE TEA PARTY WITH FRIENDS. SHE IS A LOVELY YOUNG GIRL WHO EVERYONE LOVES TO HAVE AROUND. THE COPPER BLACK GIRL REFLECTS THE PERSONALITY OF THE COPPER BLACK TYPEFACE, WHICH HAS SOFT ORGANIC SHAPES AND LOOKS MORE CASUAL. CURVED ELEMENTS IN DESIGN MAKE THIS COPPER BLACK LOOK MORE PLAYFUL. IT HAS HUMANISTIC QUALITIES THAT MAKE THE WEARERS WARM IN THEIR PERSONALITIES. COPPER BLACK FASHION WORKS BEST WITH A PETER PAN COLLAR, PUFFED SLEEVES, AND LACE THAT IS ASSOCIATED WITH THE CURVES IN THE TYPE’S STRUCTURE. ISN’T THAT CUTE?
66
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
67
68
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
69
70
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
71
72
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
73
76
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
77
HELVETICA DESIGNED BY MAX MIEDINGER , EDUARD HOFFMANN , 1957
78
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
79
80
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
THE HELVETICA GIRL
THE HELVETICA GIRL IS A MODERN WORKING GIRL. SHE IS VERY OPEN, LOVES TO MEET NEW PEOPLE, AND WORKS WITH DIFFERENT TYPES OF ASSIGNMENTS. SHE IS VERY WELL ORGANIZED BUT ALWAYS HAS TIME TO TAKE CARE OF HER LOOK. SOME PEOPLE SAY SHE HAS AN UNDERSTATED PERSONALITY BUT MOST PEOPLE SAY SHE IS THE PERFECT ONE. THE HELVETICA GIRL REFLECTS THE PERSONALITY OF THE HELVETICA TYPEFACE, WHICH TENDS TO REFLECT A CONTEMPORARY, BOLD, CLEAN, AND SLEEK ELEGANCE. HELVETICA IS ALSO EASY TO READ AND FITS WITH ALMOST ANY DESIGN PURPOSE DUE TO ITS SIMPLIFIED BEAUTY. A HELVETICA DRESS HAS A VERY SIMPLE STRUCTURE AND GEOMETRICAL SHAPE. THE DRESSES ARE DESIGNED TO EASILY MATCH ANY TYPE OF SKIRT OR PANTS, WHICH IS THE SAME PRINCIPAL OF HELVETICA TYPEFACE—TO EASILY MATCH WITH ANY TYPE OF WORK.
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
81
86
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
87
88
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
89
90
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
91
92
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
93
96
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
“THANK YOU SO MUCH, ROCKWELL. THAT WAS SO INSPIRED! I WISH I HAD MORE TIME TO LOOK AROUND BUT I HAVE TO GO NOW, OR ELSE I’M NOT GOING TO FINISH MY ASSIGNMENT.” “IT WAS NICE MEETING YOU. THIS BOX IS A SOUVENIR FROM HAUTE LIGATURE. PROMISE ME TO OPEN IT WHEN YOU’RE BACK HOME, OKAY?” “I WILL.”
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
97
“Goodbye, Ariel.”
“GOODBYE, ROCKWELL.”
98
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
99
THE FIRST LIGHT OF THE DAY SHINED THROUGH HER BEDROOM WINDOWS, AND ARIEL OPENED HER EYES.
“IT WAS A DREAM ALL ALONG. THE WONDERFUL WORLD THAT I LOVE, IN WHICH EVERYTHING WAS DESIGNED BY THE BEAUTIFUL STRUCTURES OF TYPEFACE, IS NOT A REAL THING? IT COULD ONLY EXIST IN A DREAM.” ARIEL TURNED AROUND HER PILLOW, AND A SMALL WOODEN BOX WAS THERE.
100
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
101
HAUTE LIGATURE,
ROCKWELL THE RABBIT, IT WAS NOT JUST A DREAM. ARIEL SLOWLY OPENED THE GIFT BOX; INSIDE THE BOX CONTAINED SEWING EQUIPMENT, MENDING KITS, AND DRESS PATTERNS THAT WERE DESIGNED AFTER THE TYPEFACES. THE GIRL GATHERED EVERYTHING FROM THE BOX, GRABBED THE SCISSORS, AND SLOWLY BUT FIRMLY CUT THE FABRIC.
102
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
103
A VERY BIG THANK YOU TO; MOM AND DAD AUNTY NIRA,AUNTY RADA FOR LOVE AND INVALUABLE SUPPORT. VORRARIT PORNKERT FOR YOUR TIME, PATIENCE AND PEP TALK. ACADEMY OF ART UNIVERSITY PHIL HAMLETT MARY SCOTT BOB SLOTE ROLAND YOUNG AKEMI OKAMOTO AND HUNTER LEWIS WIMMER, YOU’RE THE MAN. FRIENDS IN NEED RIT LIMPHONGPAND RAWIWAN [SOM] ATSAWATHANAPHAISAN MEEKIT SUPYEN PATCHARA CHAROENSIRI
104
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
105
106
O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
HAUTE LIGATURE LOOKBOOK
107