NEW “TYPE” OF FASHION
HAUTE LIGATURE Master of Fine Arts Thesis PADCHA SUPANIMIT
HAUTE LIGATURE / © 2013 PADCHA SUPANIMIT Academy of Art University / MFA School of Graphic Design S I Z E 8” x 11.3” D E S I G N & W R I T I N G PADCHA SUPANIMIT P H O T O G R A P H Y PADCHA SUPANIMIT T Y P E F A C E O M N E S W I S D O M S C R I P T C L A R E N D O N S O F T W A R E P R I N T E R B I N D I N G
ADOBE CREATIVE SUITE 5 GIANT HORSE PRINTING THE KEY PRINTING AND BINDING
T E X T S T O C K E N D S H E E T S T O C K C O V E R
FINCH FINE ID 60 LB. TEXT FABRIANO TIZIANO SHEETS CREAM COLOR BOOK CLOTH
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form by any electronic or mechanical means (including photocopying, recording or information storage and retrieval) without permission in writing from the author. A D D R E S S 737 POST APT#1024 SAN FRANCISCO CA 94109 T E L + 1 415 490 8903 E M A I L P A D C H A V 4 @ G M A I L . C O M
You’re invited
TO THE WORLD OF HAUTE LIGATURE!
TO THE WORLD OF HAUTE LIGATURE. p
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let me see the new type of fashion! p
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material gathering p
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dirtying the paper delicately p
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stitching it all together P
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add the finishing touches
PADCHA SUPANIMIT MASTER OF FINE ARTS THESIS: HAUTE LIGATURE
HAUTE
adjective
fashionable, High Class
LIGATURE typographic vocabulary a combination of two or more characters that are joined, which are not commonly combined into one form. HAUTE LIGATURE brand a fashion brand for lovers of clothing design and type. The design is inspired by beautiful type design structure and letter form
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TYPE
+
HAUTE
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LIGATURE
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What is
HAUTE LIGATURE? Haute Ligature is a perfect blend between typographic art and fashion; the result of this blend is the collection I call “alphabets that can be worn.” This fashion collection brings out the unique personality of the alphabets and transforms their structure and letterforms into clothes that can be seen in three-dimensional ways.
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fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening. _coco chanel, fashion designer
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D E F I N I N G A M FA G R A P H I C D E S I G N T H E S I S
An MFA thesis in graphic design is an opportunity for me to raise new questions, find challenging problems in those questions, analyze them, and try to solve them by using my own knowledge in graphic design as a tool to handle difficult issues and help me along the way.After that, there came an opportunity for me to start doing research and conduct an experiment by working with the thesis advisors and mentors to find ways to improve my project and make it as good and as close to the goal as possible. Finally, there was a process of gathering data and presenting the result in an interesting way—a way that would spark new ideas, generate inspiring thoughts, and deepen Haute Ligature is a perfect blend between typographic art and fashion; knowledge in the field of graphic design. the result of this blend is the collection I call “alphabets that can be worn.” This fashion collection brings out the unique personality of the alphabets and transforms their structure and letterforms into clothes that can be seen in three-dimensional ways.
d fashion; at can be lity of the
to clothes
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B A C K G R O U N DÂ
For me (and other students), the most challenging part is choosing the theme of the thesis. I must choose an interesting topic with enough content to occupy the next eighteen months, which demands a great deal of passion and wisdom as I look for both unique questions and unique answers. Moreover, the theme also must be related to my future career After I considered several topics for a while, I discovered that what I want to do most is something closest to my heart. My family worked in the areas of books and fashion. In other words, my family is a family of artists. My mother used to be an editor of the biggest fashion magazine in Thailand. She is no longer an editor, but she is still involved with several magazines as a consultant and supervisor. My father is a fine artist, writer, college professor, and well-known calligrapher.Therefore, the worlds of graphic design and fashion are areas I know quite well and feel comfortable to enter because I was born into them, and they were my life and my breath.
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These things molded me into a person with an interest in fashion and art. I routinely follow the news about fashion and art, and that is why I thought I should devote myself to a thesis that ties typography and fashion design together. It is true that these two areas have been combined together for more than seventy years. However, the worlds of fashion and art never stay still. The door always opens to welcome new ideas, so I pondered how could I combine these two areas and make something even more interesting than before. This is the challenge I would like to tackle and the puzzle I would like to solve. I think this project poses a good opportunity for me to use the knowledge I have in both areas to combine and find new ways to address the problem. Normally, a graphic designer or a fashion designer alone would not have sufficient knowledge to address problems outside of their own fields. However, I am a designer with knowledge in both fields, so I should be the most suitable candidate to run this project, and I should be able to make the thesis of this project interesting. Finally, I should be able to apply the knowledge I gain to create a wider and deeper scope in fashion design
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the important thing is not to stop questioning. Curiosity has its own reason to existing _albert einstein
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W H AT I S T H E P R O B L E M ?
The technique of using typography in fashion is nothing new—it has been used for more than 70 years—so it is strange that this type of design is stuck at shirt screen printing patterns on fabric. Some designers have tried to do something new, but only as experiments or fine art projects. None of the fashion houses seem to want to explore the potential usage of typographic design in fashion, so there have been no new designs. However, certain groups of people love typographic design in clothing and accessories, so we still find these types of products on the market. I thought it would be nice if I, as a graphic designer, could bring new styles to this project and create brand identities by using graphic design as a tool to reach a larger audience. This would systematically help promote a new product that could be used in daily life.
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D E S I G N S O L U T I O N
As a graphic designer, I strongly believe that letterforms are absolute beauty. Typefaces have been designed and developed over many generations of designers and continually improved upon. Some typefaces, such as Garamond, have been used for more than 400 years and are still popular today. The beauty of typefaces is simply timeless. When you think about it, letterforms are basically a combination of curved lines, straight lines, and round shapes, the fundamental elements of all design works. Hence, my best option was to use them in this fashion design project. The varieties of typeface that we use today are countless, and with those nearly unlimited options, the possibility exists to extend the variety and identity of clothing collections in the future. Typeface design in fashion is not limited to two dimensions; the third dimension can be seen in various clothing materials as well. To use different kinds of fabric to create the “type” in this project would not be too difficult at present with the help of advanced dressmaking techniques and technology.
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AB
AB
TYPAFACE
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1825s Neoclassicism
1700-1750s Rococo
FASHION
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TIMELINE
EVOLUTION OF TYPE: THE INVISIBLE CONNECTION BETWEEN FASHION, TYPOGRAPHY, AND THE ARTS. Typeface and fashion share some similar traits that can be shown as an illustrative comparison. As we see through history, typography and fashion are closer than anyone can realize. Typography textbooks usually make comparisons of architecture and typography, but it would not be exaggerating to say that fashion is an element that has sharpened and influenced the design of typefaces throughout history.
ABh 1945s Post War
ABh 1920s Art Deco
1900s Art nouveau
AB
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TA R G E T A U D I E N C E S
The target audiences of the brand Haute Ligature are people who have passion and are falling in love with the art of typography. I would call them “typophiles” or “type nerds.” Typophiles appreciate creativity. They are huge fans of creative work that relates to type and print matter. They could be people who work in creative or graphic design-related fields. They could be art students, professional bloggers, or professional graphic designers. However, typophiles are not limited by their love of typography and typeface on only books or posters—they also love to buy home accessories inspired by typography as well. These could be wall decorations, kitchen accessories, or floor mats. Of course, their clothes and fashion accessories would also relate to the typography theme.
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—
03/04
beautiful accidents can happen, but accident is not the basis for design excellence. Purposeful discovery followed by focused, skillful conceptualization and execution is the basis for design excellence. _andy rutledge, graphic designer
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D E S I G N E X P L O R AT I O NÂ
There are no such things as art projects that can be successfully completed without multiple good sketches. Haute Ligature took time to develop and I found its visual signature through hundreds of pages of sketches and drawings. Only after a few experiments did I start to head in a direction that made conceptual sense. My direction is clear, clean, and subtle with a sense of the feminine touch and pop culture belonging to the modern age.
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sketchbook
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S K E T C H B O O K SÂ
I love to draw and always carry a sketchbook with me everywhere. Since the very beginning of this project, I have become even more obsessed with drawing. I use every page to express my ideas, find solutions in the design process, and transfer letterforms to dress designs. There was a long period of trial and error, but it helped me sharpen my project to what it is today.
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E X P E R I M E N TA L FA S H I O N I L L U S T R AT I O N S
During my “Directed Study� class in spring semester of 2013, I was working all semester long, practicing hand-drawn fashion illustration in traditional media. It was a great experiment to work on different styles and techniques. The purpose of this practice was to help me find my personal illustration style to fit with my project.I used different mediums, such as charcoal, Indian ink, brush pens, watercolors, compressed crayons, and so on. Also, I did some experimental work to mix hand-drawn typography with fashion illustration. I produced more then three hundred fashion illustrations and type experiments during the course of fifteen weeks. The result became the foundation for the illustrations and dress designs presented in the lookbook.
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i always find beauty in thing that are odd and imperfect-they are much more interesting. _marc jacobs
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PADCHA SUPANIMIT MASTER OF FINE ARTS THESIS: HAUTE LIGATURE
D I F F E R E N T T Y P E FA C E , D I F F E R E N T P E R S O N A L I T Y
Within communications research, many experts agree that typefaces convey mood, attitude, and tone, while having a distinct persona based on the font’s unique features, according to the Software Usability Research Laboratory (SURL) at Wichita State University. Three different typefaces were selected for the first collection based on their outstanding visual appearance and identity.
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caslon
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CASLON DESIGNED BY WILLIAM CASLON, 1692–1766
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CASLON
/ HAUTE LIGATURE COLLECTION_01
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz 1234567890!@#$%^&*() CASLON, DESIGNED BY WILLIAM CASLON IN 1722
Caslon was created to be a timeless, elegant typeface. Caslon is classified as a classic serif typeface. It has been used in many historical documents, including the U.S. Declaration of Independence. This style exudes a feeling of formality and elegance. Its design exhibits a moderately high contrast, robust texture, and a moderate modulation of stroke. When designing clothing influenced by Caslon, the pieces had to be elegant, suited to nighttime galas and parties where possible. This collection is suited to ladies who love high-class materials, such as silk. The designs have more embellishments in terms of structure and ornament. The most important feature is in the shoulder area, which has been influenced by Bracketed Serif, the signature design of this typeface. This shape of serif creates a silhouette of angular shapes appearing from the shoulders and hem of the skirt. The structure of the clothes is outstanding and differentiates itself from other designs.
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COOPER BLACK DESIGNED BY OSWALD BRUCE COOPER , 1921
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COOPER BLACK
/ HAUTE LIGATURE COLLECTION_02
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz 1234567890!@#$%^&*() C O O P E R B L A C K , D E S I G N E D B Y O S WA L D B R U C E C O O P E R I N 1 9 1 9
Cooper Black is a typeface with a round shape and no sharp corners. This typeface reminds me of the shape of a balloon, and it creates an easy-going, fun-loving mood. The clothes were designed by bringing the element of curved lines to skirt hems, shoulders, and collars. Overall, this design has a sweet and friendly feeling. The main design features are the use of lace, ribbon, and Peter Pan collar details. Cooper Black dresses would be suitable for daytime outings, picnics in the park, and holidays.
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HELVETICA
DESIGNED BY MAX MIEDINGER , EDUARD HOFFMANN , 1957
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HELVETICA
/ HAUTE LIGATURE COLLECTION_04
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz 1234567890!@#$%^&*() H E LV E T I C A , D E S I G N E D B Y M A X M I E D I N G E R I N 1 9 5 7
Helvetica is a favored typeface by many graphic designers because it is contemporary, bold, and simple, yet very distinctive and easy to read. I think the clothes influenced by this typeface need to be chic, sleek, and suitable for all occasions. These are clothes made for a modern, working generation of intelligent people with unique personalities. The structure of the clothing should be distinctive, containing geometric structures while still being usable in daily life. The important thing that I figured out while designing this collection was that the designs had to be simple, and easy to mix and match with other blouses, shirts, or skirts. Just like the Helvetica typeface, the clothing had to easily adapt to any kind of use.
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real dress
ADVENTURES IN DRESSMAKING
After countless hours of research and concept sketches, finally, the dream of a wearable alphabet is becoming reality. Every dress design began with a rough drawing. The best designs were selected and turn into refined concept sketches with all colors and patterned design. After the concept sketches were done, flats, or technical drawing for fashions, were drawn. Flats work as blueprints for constructing a dress. The dressmaking process took around two weeks to finish each dress.
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opener5
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logos and branding are so important. In a big part of the world, people cannot read French or English--but are great in remembering signs. _karl lagerfeld
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hand sketch logo
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PADCHA SUPANIMIT MASTER OF FINE ARTS THESIS: HAUTE LIGATURE
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PADCHA SUPANIMIT MASTER OF FINE ARTS THESIS: HAUTE LIGATURE
THE LOGO
Haute Ligature’s logo is very simple, clean and modern. I want to design something that looks friendly and approachable for everyone. The symmetrical logo reflects a classic sensibility with a hint of glam. Both design elements that represent type and fashion are mixed together as reminders of the unique nature of Haute Ligature..
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T H E H A U T E L I G AT U R E T Y P E FA C E
The typefaces representing Haute Ligature are Omnes, Clarendon, and Wisdom Script. The primary typeface, Omnes, is clean, friendly, and looks playful. It is a typeface that is easy to use with different styles of page setting. Omnes meets the need for a rounded typeface which is neither overly mannered nor excessively literal in its approach. The secondary typeface is Clearedon, an English slab-serif typeface. It is extremely useful. It provided the attention-getting boldness to highlight a word or phrase, yet at the same time was compact and easier to read. Wisdom Script was used to highlight some small details that needed attention.
THE NEW
“type� O
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F FASHION OMNES / PRIMARY TYPEFACE ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz 1234567890!@#$%^&*()
CLARENDON
/ SECONDARY TYPEFACE
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz 1234567890!@#$%^&*()
Wisdom Script
/ THIRDARY TYPEFACE
A B C DEF G H IJ K L MN O P QRST U V W X YZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz 1234567890! @ #$%& *()
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PMS 268C C: 16 R: 211
M: 0 G: 233
Y: 6 B: 237
K: 0
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K: 15
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Y: 0 B: 3 6
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M: 85 G: 80
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PMS 1505C C: 16 R: 244
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PMS 430C C: 65 R: 99 PMS 631C C: 55 R: 211
PMS 9103C C: 7 R: 235
M: 4 G: 235
PMS BLACK6C C: 40 R: 15 PMS 172C C: 0 R: 210
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H A U T E L I G AT U R E L O O K B O O K : O N C E U P O N A T Y P E
The Lookbook is created for marketing purposes. The brand needs an introduction to a general audience and visual documentation for the debut collection of Haute Ligature. “Once Upon a Type� blurs the line between artistic and commercial. The design concept is very different from traditional lookbooks. This issue shows original pencil illustrations of the collection. The illustrations are strikingly similar to the look of final collection. There is a quirky innocence to the work and practice of Haute Ligature that is particularly suited to the subtle, narrative-based design of the lookbook.Limited editions of the lookbook are distributed exclusively to a selected group of press, stylists, buyers and photographers inside the fashion industry.
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lookbook+word
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lookbook
Meet Ariel,
THE HAUTE LIGATURE GIRL Allow me to introduce you to Ariel—an art student. She is young, witty, and outgoing, and she majors in graphic design. If she can catch a break after finishing her assignments, she loves to hang out with her friends and shop for clothes or small knick-knacks. She is not a fan of big name designers; instead, she prefers to go to small local retail stores. She is a fashion-forward designer. She loves to pick something that looks new and trendy to wear. Her apartment is quite unique; it looks much different from those of her friends. Her love of typographic art shows in her apartment decoration. She has alphabet coffee mugs, an alphabet lampshade, black alphabet chairs, and custom-designed alphabet wallpaper.
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R E TA I L
Haute Ligature’s retail has been designed and created especially for those who love typographic art. The design will make customers feel excited and astonished when they see the display window. After customers step into the shop, they will be surrounded by an atmosphere that will take them to another dimension—the typographic dimension. The retail store will be decorated with neon lettering on the display shelves, and the clothes racks and shelves are custom made in the shapes of the alphabet. There are also alphabet decorations on the walls and other beautiful decorations.
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All materials are designed to be trendy and edgy, but still made with natural materials. For example, the floors, counters, and small display shelves will be made of wood. This would give the space a warm and friendly touch. The colors in the retail store would be in warm and lively tones, such as blue and cream, with a center focus on orange. All colors are the colors of brand identity. We will have trendy books about typographic arts and crafts designs in the fashion house, as well as needlework equipment, custom-made buttons, and ornamentation in glass jars for purchase. In addition to the ready-to-wear fashions for sale, customers can create custommade clothes using our computer by picking their own lettering and colors, and then placing an order. The system is easy and user-friendly, even for someone who is not familiar with computers. Customers can also browse the Haute Ligature website at a computer that would be installed at the center counter. Staff members called “Type Genius� will assist and provide design advice.
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H A U T E L I G AT U R E P O P - U P S T O R EÂ
Another type of small retail space, designed simply as pop-up stores, can be moved for installation in public spaces, fairs, or flea markets, such as Treasure Island Flea Market, Renegade Craft Fair, and the Union Street Festival. The popup shop would have the same basic function as the main retail store, but would be downsized. Customers could still enjoy the ready-made clothes, custom design orders, and the brand’s accessories. The pop-up store is good for short-term markets. It is fit to promote limited edition products, sample products, and the debut of new seasonal collections. The pop-up store can also be adapted to use in party spaces and cocktail bars for evening parties. These shops, while small and temporary, can build interest in the brand through consumer exposure.
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Haute Ligature pop-up store 12 ft. (W) X 10 ft. (H) X 14 ft. (D)
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Haute Ligature custom display rack 15 Ft. (W) X 6 Ft. (H) X 3 Ft. (D)
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haute ligature hearts you To my family Mom, Dad, Grandma, Aunt Nira, Aunt Rada who always support my endeavors. To Vorrarit Pornkert and Isaac the chinchilla, My partner in crime. To Phil Hamlett and Marry Scott words can not express my gratitude for all of the opportunities, your help and guidance. To my MFA thesis advisors, Roland Young and Bob Slote. Their careful reviews of Haute Ligature and advice imparted through long years of experience were invaluable to the process. This project can complete due to the foundation they established in our directed study sessions. SPECIAL THANKS TO
Hunter Lewis Wimmer , thank you for getting me started. Your words of encouragement and constant challenging me made me stronger as a designer and as a passionate person. To all my brilliant instructors who have help me get where I am today, thank you for your constant guidance and encouragement during my study. To my friends and fellow classmates, thank you for putting up with my breakdowns and for helping me survive all my deadline by being supportive, and special thanks to Rit Limphongpand and Rawiwan Atsawathanaphaisan for always with me.
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