AYSÉN - SIMPSON CULTURAL AREA
Travels through the Aysén - Simpson Area - Aysén Region of Chile TOTAL PER PERSON
14 DAYS 13 NIGHTS
2 TRAVELERS (ME AND MY LOVE)
$3,250 USD
Details (my part of the payment): Transport = $2,000.00 (Air, 50% of the lease of a vehicle for 6 days + gasoline), 50% of the Accommodations + Food = $840.00 ($60.00 /day average), Excursions and Souvenirs = $410.00
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My previous trips to the region of Aysén (Chile) have been some of my most popular posts and I’m pretty sure that my latest adventure in Patagonia will also capture your interest and imagination. For those who have been keeping up, it’s been a little over two years since my odyssey through the fjords and channels of Aysén. This trip inspired some MAJOR life changes (you could also say some MAJOR life changes inspired the trip), like the decision to pursue my photography and writing full time and to make travel a central focus in my life. Since that time, I’ve explored various continents and written hundreds of articles; it’s been amazing! Somewhere along the way, I fell in love with Andy, who has been my full-time adventure companion for a little over a year now. Andy’s specialty is museum development; not the old-school Natural History or Art museums that we grew up with – rather, the new kinds of museums that give people the chance to touch and play and feel while they learn. Andy works with cities to attract investors and assists with museum design and innovation. A few months ago at a conference, Andy met someone who was working on an idea to develop a museum about the glaciers of the Patagonia Ice Fields. They asked him to join their project and assist with the feasibility study. As fate would have it, his assignment included a month of on-site work, in the city of Coyhaique, the capital of my beloved Aysén Region. So, I joined him for a few weeks to explore the central area of Aysén, learn more about its history and landscapes, and develop a few articles to share with travelers, like you.
Day 1: Arrival in Coyhaique
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Andy met me at the airport in Balmaceda and even though he had only been gone a week, it was so great to see him! When we stepped outside he had to hold on to me to keep me from blowing away! Déjà vu! Last time it was exactly the same thing but with my Dad holding on to me – I get the feeling that in Balmaceda the wind never stops. We arrived in Coyhaique in little less than an hour and stopped by the cabana Andy had rented, (Cabins Queulat, www.descubrepatagonia.cl) to drop off my things. Good choice; cozy, well-equipped and only one block from the Plaza de Arms. We walked around a bit and stopped for lunch at a fun restaurant named Mama Gaucha (Paseo Horn 47, www.mammagaucha.cl). We shared a delicious grilled camembert with a sauce made from a local fruit called calafate that tastes like a cross between blueberries and blackberries. They say that if you eat calafate while in Patagonia you are sure to come back – I’m SURE I’ll be back, calafate or not (but, the sauce was really good). For the main course we shared a plate of handmade pasta called panzotti that was stuffed with crab. Afterwards, we walked around the downtown area and Andy showed me some of the local spots including the travel agency Purapatagonia (www.purapatagonia.cl), which rents bicycles. At 3:00 pm, all the businesses reopen from their two hour lunch break, so Andy headed off to meet with his team. It was a beautiful afternoon so I decided to get a little exercise and explore. I went back to Purapatagonia and they were super friendly, recommending a route around town that included some of the historic sites. Map in hand, I pedaled through the streets of Coyhaique, to the top of Baquedano, to check out some of the original buildings of the Industrial Society of Aysén, which moved into this area in 1903 with a government concession to develop ranching and infrastructure in the central area of the region. Most of the buildings are long gone but you can still visit the building that served as the company store and a beautiful stone barn; both of which are national monuments. On the way back to the downtown area, I stopped to walk through the park in the boulevard. There are several statues and monuments, kind of an outdoor museum, one of which, the monument called the Ovejero (a pioneer moving his sheep), was clearly the star attraction. Afterwards, I returned the bike and wandered into a lovely café, called La Ovejita (Facebook: Cafetería Ovejita) where I enjoyed one of the most delicious hot chocolates I’ve ever had. In the afternoon, I met Andy at the Restaurant Histórico Ricer (also on Facebook), which is a great place to check out local culture. They have lots of local books you can read, a second floor full of antiques and historic photos and lots of local plates and ingredients on their menu. We tried a local beer (Finisterra, www.cervezafinisterra.cl), that I had first tried with my Dad in Puerto Cisnes a few years earlier. For dinner we shared a lamb asado, prepared in the traditional way, in one of the corners of the restaurant. Yum. We finished the night with a Chile’s national cocktail, the pisco sour – but this local version was made with juice from the Nalca plant, which is endemic to the region – (I remember seeing it everywhere we went when we traveled through the Palena – Queulat area of the region, four years ago). Delicious!
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Day 2: Coyhaique’s next door neighbors - Puerto Aysén and RN Simpson The last night of my trip to the fjords and channels of Aysén, my dad and I had stayed in nearby Puerto Aysén. It is just an hour northeast of Coyhaique and I could have gone by bus (they run every 30 minutes from the terminal), but I decided to take advantage of the rental car Andy had rented. I went to visit Señora Isabel McKay at her hotel Patagonia Green (www.patagoniagreen.cl), where we had stayed, and I was amazed that after two years, she remembered us. We had a good visit and she showed me the latest improvements she had made in her hotel, cabins and restaurant. We talked about the area and when I told her of my previous kayak adventures, she recommended an excursion on one of the hundreds of lakes in the surrounding area and put me in touch with Rolando Toledo of Aguahielo Expediciones (www.aguahielo.cl). I couldn’t resist, so I booked a kayak tour for the following day. On the way back to Coyhaique, I took the time to explore some of the amazing landscapes along the way. For example, there is a mountain that you pass that looks just like a giant green muffin (it’s called the English Cake), and later, an incredible waterfall and two really interesting Catholic shrines; one next to the waterfall and the other a bit further south, just opposite the entrance to the Simpson River National Reserve (Facebook: Reserva Nacional Río Simpson). I stopped in the ranger’s office to pay the entrance fee and learn about the El Pescador trail. The trail takes around two and a half hours at a relaxed pace and follows the banks of the Simpson River through native forests full of songbirds. It is amazing that we were so close to the city of Coyhaique and in such a beautiful natural setting. After the hike, I headed back to meet Andy – he had a great afternoon snack waiting (called onces here), with a nice bottle of wine, local cheeses and cold cuts, dips and pates. We talked about everything we had seen that day and I showed him the photography of the day - this area of the world is truly amazing.
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In the morning I called Rolando to confirm the time of our departure and see how the weather was in Puerto Aysén. Even though it’s so close to Coyhaique, the climate is completely different because of its proximity to the fjords, and its temperate rain forest ecosystem. Fortunately for us, it was a little cloudy and there was no rain or wind; an excellent day for kayaking. We met in his office, loaded the kayaks and headed to the Lago los Palos sector, just 10 km from Puerto Aysén. The lake is surrounded by virgin forests, huge snow-capped mountains, lots of small waterfalls and beautiful beaches. We paddled the entire lake, before descending a small river with water so transparent that we could even see the trout passing underneath the kayak. It was an incredible day and I was STARVING when I got back to Coyhaique. Andy asked the owner of the cabins for a recommendation
and we found ourselves at Lito’s Restaurant (067) 2254528, a local favorite with great food and big portions (they call restaurants like this “Picadas”). We had the Patagonian version of a “pupu platter” – which means an individual grill is brought out to the table filled to the brim with beef, chicken, pork chops, chorizo and other sausages, plus potatoes and other goodies. It was A-W-E-S-O-M-E and they had the best pisco sours I’ve found (so far!).
Day 4: A Day of Surprises in Coyhaique
Day 5: The Grand Tour of the Empanada
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When I woke up I realized that my beloved boyfriend was not to be found! He had left a note explaining that he had received an early phone call from the project coordinator and had needed to take the car. I decided to relax and people watch in the morning and headed to the plaza in the center of town with my camera and lenses in tow. It was a gorgeous sunny day and all of the children in town were out of school for summer, so the plaza was filled with people; families playing, friends talking, kids eating ice cream and driving around in little model cars that they rented over in one corner. There was a band playing and sights and sounds and smells everywhere. I sat on a bench and got out my camera and set to work! I spent the entire morning watching and playing with my camera and talking with people who stopped to chat. Andy called me around 1:00 pm and we went to lunch at the Casino de Bomberos (067) 2231437, another “picada”, where you’re sure to find crowds of locals, great foods and huge portions. (Don’t miss their ceviche). After lunch we wanted to get a little exercise, so we went to the Coyhaique National Reserve, five minutes outside of town, where we met an awesome park ranger named Rody Alvarez. We asked him why there was so much pine in this reserve because the National Reserves are supposed to protect native forests and pine is not native to Patagonia. Rody told us about the massive forest fires that had swept through the Aysén Region in the 1950s (mostly man-made) and the flooding and erosion that had followed. To address these disasters, Conaf (the National Forest Service), developed a system for forest recuperation that used introduced species that were fast-growing and could protect the remaining native forest. We walked a short trail that bordered the Verde Lagoon, where there are nice camping areas and shelters for picnics and barbecues. Andy had come prepared with picnic supplies so after our walk, we sat down in one of the shelters and enjoyed the afternoon sun and the views of the lagoon with an awesome snack. It was a nice surprise.
Our conversation with Rody at the Coyhaique NR had piqued my interest so in the morning I headed to the regional library (Facebook: bibliotecacoyhaique) to read more about the history of Coyhaique. They have a great local collection and it gave me an opportunity to practice my Spanish, learning more about the historic sites I had seen during my bike outing, and about the fires of the 1950s and early 1960s.
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Inside one of the books, in the margin of the page, someone had made notes about how to make empanadas, which made me remember a game that we invented during our trip to Palena - Queulat: “The Grand Tour of the Empanada”. It works like this: during your travels you look for EVERY place that offers empanadas (most places do in Chile) and buy one or two in search of the perfect example of this local gastronomic delight. Of course, it’s best when you play as a group and enjoy a few tasty beverages along the way. The prize? Great food, great drinks and lots of laughs. I decided we should play and started to explore the downtown area in search of contestants - I found several, including the baked empanadas at the Casino de Bomberos (General Parra 365), interesting varieties at la Panadería M&B (12 de Octubre 27), papas rellenos at Palestina Sándwich (avenida Ogana 963), which use the same filling as empanadas but substitute mashed potatoes for the bread outer layer, and more than 25 options at Todo Empanadas (Lillo 366 interior). I headed home with an ample variety and in the afternoon we invited some of Andy’s friends from the project to come over with a sample of local beers, like Dolbek of Coyhaique (www.dolbek.cl) and Hopperdietzel of Puyuhuapi (Facebook: Cerveza Hopperdietzel). Between beers, music and lots of laughter, we searched for the perfect empanada. Hmmm, should I tell you the winner? Nahhhh, more fun if I leave it for you to decide, when you visit. I’ll leave it at this, we took lots of fun photos to document the event and I’m sure they are floating around somewhere in Facebook. Later, our friends took us out to show us the nightlife of Coyhaique. We stopped for a few drinks in the Piel Roja discotheque, before deciding to go to the Quilantal (067) 2234394 dance club to learn the local dance, chamamé, to a live band. We then finished the night in El Bulín’s (Facebook: El Bulin’s Coyhaique). It was an awesome Friday night – Saturday morning!
Day 6: In Search of Huemules
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As you can imagine, we slept in Saturday morning. When we finally got up we needed some food so we headed to the locally famous bakery of the Colombians, as it’s known here, for a couple dozen “facturas”, which are hand-made Danish with all kinds of fillings (in reality it is called Delibreak Gourmet and absolutely worth a visit - Ignacio Serrano 143). So delicious! Afterwards, we visited the tourism information kiosk in the Plaza to ask about where we could go to do some hiking and maybe see the see Huemul, a native deer that is Chile’s national animal and endangered. We were sent to Cerro Huemules, an area of the Río Simpson National Reserve that is specifically designated for Huemul protection and study, only 16 kilometers from Coyhaique. Again, we met super friendly and knowledgeable rangers who told that in the morning they had seen a family of huemules along the trail to the summit. In fact, one of the rangers even decided to hike with us to show us where they were. At first we couldn’t find them, because they were so well camouflaged, but soon our eyes sharpened and there they were… it was fantastic! We watched a female grazing with her calf, by far
the best experience of the trip so far. In the afternoon there was a soccer (futbol) match on television and Andy and I were invited to go and watch the Chilean national team play at Bajo Marquesina, (21 de mayo 306, (067) 2210720). I can’t say I’m a huge fan but it was a blast to go to this local bar and hang out a ton of people who were. Plus, they had a great selection of sandwiches and local beers – good times. We tried Pioneros, another beer from Coyhaique and after the game, we went back to Mamma Gaucha to test their home brew, Cerveza Tropera. Ah! AND Chile won the game.
Day 7: Lakes, rivers and of course, fly fishing! This area of Patagonia is famous for fly-fishing so, since Andy had to work, I contacted local fly fishing guide, Julio Meier (www.coyhaiqueflyfishing.com), to have a lesson and see what all the talk was about. Julio showed me a beautiful sector close to Coyhaique where, within the space of 30 kilometers, we encountered the Simpson River, the Elizalde Lake, the Paloma River and finally, the Caro Lake. They were all amazing on the eyes and challenging to fish – Julio explained that the wind in this area makes for very technical fishing, one of the challenges that attracts world-class fans of this sport. Julio laughed at my complaints about fishing in the wind (which seemed impossible to me), and showed me the proper techniques so that I could cast and retrieve. It was fun to learn but, after a couple of hours in the cold water, I decided that I preferred watching him and photographing the graceful movements of the line as it arched over the water, and the excitement on his face each time he landed a trout. In addition to being an excellent fisherman, Julio was an expert on the culture and nature of the area, and when he saw how much I liked photography he recommended that I visit the Punta del Monte Estancia, (www.puntadelmonte. cl), where I could have the opportunity to get up close and personal with Andean Condors.
Day 8: Condors and Culture in Coyhaique
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Alejandro Galilea, one of the owners of the Punta del Monte Estancia, was waiting for me in front of the cabana at the incredibly early hour of 5:00 am, with a strong cup of coffee and the promise that he would do his absolute best to fulfill my dream to photograph a condor from only a few feet away. The estancia is in Coyhaique Alto, which is about an hour and a half from the city, along the border with Argentina where the landscape is dominated by pampa and sheep. We drove across the pampa, first along farm roads and finally, literally crossing the grasslands, until we finally arrived at a canyon, where we got out the binoculars and cameras and walked to the edge. I couldn’t believe it when I saw that about 15 meters away there was a family of condors sleeping! About a half an hour later they began to stir as the first rays of the sun hit the rock wall, and Alejandro began teaching me the differences between the males, females, and juveniles, while we all (condors included) waited for the air to warm up and began to produce the conditions needed for flight. Around
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40 minutes passed, during which the condors cleaned their feathers and did a condor warm-up exercise routine and then suddenly, everything clicked and they all began to lift off and circle us and the canyon below. There were eight condors flying a few meters above me at one point and my poor camera seemed to be a machine-gun because of all the shots I was taking. It was almost a mystical experience being there and I was close to tears; everything was so amazingly beautiful: the vibrant early morning light, the infinite grasses of the pampa, the ribbon of water below in the canyon, and the beautiful grace of these giant birds as they flew their maneuvers above us. Alejandro told me that at times there are more than 30 condors; can you imagine? We arrived in Coyhaique around lunchtime so I met Andy for a HUGE sandwich, called a churassco, at Club Sándwich Patagonia (José de Moraleda 437, (067) 2244664). We shared one sandwich between the two of us and that was more than enough. Afterwards we went for a walk and around 3:00, we passed by the Cultural Center (Facebook: Cultura Coyhaique), and I noticed there were a ton of people gathered. We asked what was up and they explained that it was the first day of the Patagonia Live Theatre Festival (www.patagoniaenescena.blogspot.com), which, of course, was impossible to resist. We watched a few of the plays and in the process, someone mentioned that a few weeks prior, they had finished the Patagonia Film Festival (Facebook: Festival de Cine de la Patagonia). I had never imagined that Coyhaique would have such a developed cultural scene. I finished the afternoon in the library, because I was planning on going to explore the area of Mañihuales and El Toqui mine, and I wanted to have more of a context of the history of this area, especially the rock slides and floods that had occurred around 1966 in this sector. I was pretty sure there was an important story to write but I needed more facts.
Day 9: Lessons to learn - perspectives to share
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I woke up thinking about my article and what I had discovered. I headed north towards Puerto Aysén but, about 15 km before reaching town, I turned right at the Viviana crossing toward the tiny town of Villa Mañihuales. The road was excellent and so was the weather! I stopped several times along the route for photos of the beautiful rivers and mountain landscapes. When I reached Mañihuales, I stopped at the grocery store on the main strip to find out where Señora Iris Leiva, and her husband, Don Moses Flores lived, because I had heard they were local authorities on the history of this area. In fact, Iris had written a poem celebrating the pioneers of the sector, saying (roughly), “although the settlers’ life was difficult and many suffered, they never forgot to extend their special form of hospitality and warmth”. Seems this tradition continues, because when I knocked on their front door, a complete stranger, they invited me in as if they had known me all their lives! I explained that I had been reading about the great flood and rock slide of 1966 and that I wanted to hear about the events first-hand for an article I planned to
write. They told me all about the events that had destroyed almost the entire pueblo. It was a miracle that nobody died, and more evidence that their unique traditions of hospitality were essential for their existence. Basically, imagine a region that was using slash and burn clearing to develop usable land. As a result there was no forest cover to keep the soils intact and so, when the rainy season of 1966 arrived, the mountains began to move and erode, producing giant landslides and flooding throughout much of the region. Mañihuales experienced a tremendous landslide on May 21, 1966, a day which is traditionally celebrated in Chile as the end of the War of Pacific, in which Chile gained its northern territories in the Atacama Desert. Thus, thanks to their spirit of hospitality and community celebration, at the time of the landslide they were all gathered together in the local rodeo club on the other side of the Mañihuales River, in a huge community feast. Señora Iris told me all about her memories of the event and shared lots of pictures of the “before and after”. She even helped to arrange an interview with someone from Conaf who explained the creation of the Mañihuales National Reserve, a tremendous pine forest in the center of town which plays a crucial role in protecting this area from other landslides and continuing erosion. On the way back, I decided to take the back route that passes by the El Toqui mine. I was not expecting much from the route, so I was really surprised to encounter so many incredible and contrasting landscapes: fields full of wildflowers, enormous native forests, wetlands full of migrating birds, rivers and lakes and in the middle of everything, the giant modern infrastructure of the Toqui mining camp. In my research I had come across a stat explaining that the Aysén Region was undergoing a sort of “mini” gold rush – and that as of 2012 - 635,802 hectares had been awarded to mining interests, 89% for explorations, primarily for gold. It was pretty scary to imagine that there could be “El Toquis” cropping up all over these beautiful sectors. I sure hope that Aysén has good environmental policy in place and sufficient controls.
Day 10: Coyhaique’s cafes and breweries
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I stopped by Conaf early to confirm the facts of my article and then installed myself and my computer in a local café to enjoy a few lattes, write and edit photos. I spent the whole day working, grateful to have work that I love, until Andy showed up and we decided to trade in the foam of coffee for that of local brews. We headed to the Belgian-style tavern of the D’Olbek Brewery, (www.dolbek.cl), which is right next door to their brewing and bottling operations. In addition to learning about their process and tasting several varieties, we bought a few gifts to bring back for our family and friends. I love arriving home after my travels with little surprises.
Day 1 1: Old friends and new friends in Mi Taller Che When I found out about my trip I had contacted an old friend, Marisol, who lives in Coyhaique. She had studied in the U.S. for a semester of college and we had gotten to know
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each other then. She told me about a group of artisans who had a workshop in Villa Ortega and suggested we go together and make a day of it. The workshop, Mi Taller Che sits in the corner of the town plaza, next to the village museum. We walked in on a lively group of women whom we christened the “little witches” of Villa Ortega, because their workshop was filled with tiny little witches crafted from elements of nature and a whole lot of what we called “magic”. We wanted to be witches too and asked if we could learn about their art. First step was to accompany them in the collection of the raw material. We walked across town to a beautiful forest on the outskirts and gathered “old man’s beard”, a lichen that grows from the trees in places where the air is extremely clean. With our arms full of lichen and our lungs full of fresh Patagonian air, we headed back to the workshop to learn how to conjure up our witches. Well, actually, it seems that witches are a little complicated for amateurs so they taught us to make nests and tiny little birds that turned out to be really cute. Then we learned to make felt earrings and necklaces which I will probably be wearing for the next few months straight. Of course, we couldn’t leave without a few rounds of mate and a few professionally crafted witches and handicrafts for my mom and Andy’s mom, and of course, some for friends, and yes, some for yours truly as well. It was an awesome day!
Day 12: Bottling up the essence of Patagonia in Don Santiago’s Quincho
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It was Friday and since Andy did not have to work, we decided to go to Frio Lake with a couple of new friends from his project. The mission of the day was to find Señora Norma’s farm and quincho, Don Santiago (www.casaturismorural. cl/gastronomia), so we could learn how to make artisan liqueurs. Her farm and house were in a beautiful place with panoramic views of the lake, and she told us about her family while we walked her fields in search of wild strawberries (so yummy!). It took longer than it should have because we were eating one for every four we put in the bucket but finally she said we had enough, so we returned to the house to make a batch of her delicious liqueur. They are really easy to make however, they require patience; you have to wait several months for the flavors to meld and mature. No problem though, we left our batch for another group of visitors to try and bought a batch that had been made last summer. It was perfect – like drinking the sweet taste of summer, bottled with all its sweet essence. We bought several to try and to take home to others. I definitely bought too many souvenirs on this adventure; getting them back was a colossal challenge! When we arrived in Coyhaique we learned that there was a regional band, Par de Chocos Trio (on Facebook), launching their new disc at the Cultural Center so we shared a fondue at La Ovejita (09) 90905636, right across the street, and then ventured over to listen to a little local music.
Day 13: Biking through the Simpson Valley After so many great meals and beers during our trip, it was time for some exercise. We rented a couple of bikes in the kiosk of the Restaurant Histórico Ricer (067) 2232920, in Paseo Horn. They recommended a route through the Simpson Valley, towards the tiny town of El Blanco. We liked the idea because it promised great rural landscapes and the route is almost entirely on pavement. As an added bonus, we could ride right out of town so there was no need to coordinate cars and bike racks. We had the Patagonian winds at our backs so we arrived at the village of Valle Simpson in no time. It’s a tiny place, with an interesting local museum and lots of gauchos, with their berets, handkerchiefs and sculpted faces that are a testament to decades of working outside, exposed to wind, cold and sun. We continued on our path, stopping briefly on the banks of the Simpson River to enjoy a snack, and then continued through the giant farms of the sector, winding our way along country roads toward El Blanco. There, we wandered through the Mate Museum (Genoveva Perez; (09) 90778834) which we liked just as much as the first museum in Valle Simpson. They were both tiny and created by local families, but as Andy said, they told the local stories of this area’s history and colonization, and I think it’s great that the local community is interested in keeping these memories alive. We arrived in Coyhaique super tired, but glad to have had a day in the fresh air.
Day 14: Promises and farewells
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I had my flight in the afternoon, so I took advantage of the morning to walk through town in search of a special souvenir that my dad had requested. When we traveled through the fjords together, he fell in love with three things: the wine botas that people in Aysén use to share wine at their Asados (barbecues), the berets that the gauchos use, and the ceramic casserole dishes made in Puerto Ibáñez. We had agreed that if I returned with the first two, we would search for the third together, during a future trip with the whole family. So I went in search of all things “gaucho” and at 10:01 am, I was ready and waiting for the doors to open at the House of Mate (Errázuriz 268 - Facebook: La Casa Del Mate Coyhaique) so I could honor my part of the commitment. And yes, of course, I took advantage of the occasion to buy a mate gourd, bombilla and yerba for Andy and me, once we returned home. We left around 12:00 to head to the airport in Balmaceda and arrived in less than an hour, so, I was checkedin and ready with a few hours to spare. We decided to walk across the street to town and explore this tiny frontier town. We strolled along the streets, and toured yet another tiny local museum and the new plaza which pays homage to the town’s founder, but more than anything, we enjoyed our last moments together during this adventure in Aysén. Then I began the long journey home, jealous of Andy who was making his way down to the Patagonian Ice Fields (grrrr – next time)!
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THE HEART OF COYHAIQUE BEATS ALL SUMMER LONG, IN THE PLAZA
If your trip takes you to Aysén’s regional capital, there’s little doubt that you will find yourself in the Plaza of Arms in the center of the city at one point or another. Even though Coyhaique is the region’s largest city, it still maintains the intimacy and atmosphere of a small town, where everything radiates from its core. If you’re walking through Coyhaique’s downtown area, try this brief experiment: sit on a bench for a couple of minutes and watch the people passing through. The ideal place to do so is the Plaza de Arms, because its unique pentagonal design unites the downtown streets, passages, locals and visitors in a flurry of activity and energy.
Has it been a few moments? Okay. Abracadabra. Now we’ll describe the scene you’ve just observed.
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First of all, it wasn’t hard to recognize the coyhaiquinos and differentiate them from the visitors, right? You probably saw several parents watching their children running and playing everywhere; especially at the edge of the plaza’s fountains. Some were probably riding their bikes since the Plaza is known as a safe and popular place for learning. And those with the best luck (or grandma) were enjoying a delicious ice cream, right? Teenagers were grouped around the corners of the lawns, flirting and laughing and plotting their evening adventures. And depending on the hour and day, you also saw lots of residents and business folks walking at a fast pace through the central corridor of the Plaza with their hands full of folders containing the bureaucratic paperwork needed for their latest transaction. Even though they were clearly in a hurry, they probably stopped once or twice to greet a friend or family member, because the city is small and you always run into people you know. These people, young and old, are the Coyhaiquinos, the pulse of this city, its life and spirit. In addition to spotting the people of Coyhaique (and, of course, quite a few of their dogs), it is very likely that your experiment also roused some other senses: the sounds
of music and traffic, the smells of the roses and the popcorn, and the sensations of the feel of the sun, rain or wind or perhaps all three at the same time! And, if your visit is during the summer, no doubt, you also saw dozens of visitors, that (just like you), are in search of: 1) tourist information, 2) banking services, 3) a good place to eat or 4) something exciting to do. They are easy to distinguish because of their giant backpacks, their maps, their cameras, their bicycles weighted down with tents and saddlebags, and their mixture of languages and accents from all over the world. So, here are a few tips to help you find everything you are looking for:
Tourist information? There are options all around. The kiosk in the west corner of the Plaza is home to the Chamber of Tourism of Coyhaique and the Rural Tourism House. They have information and advice for what to do and where to go within the entire region. Around back of this building you’ll find Dussen Street, and The Patagonia Rural Experience, a local tour operator with several tours and products that emphasize the rural areas and experiences in the Region. If you keep walking to the corner you’ll find Prat Avenue and to the right, in the middle of the block, are the offices of the Chamber of Commerce and Tourism of Coyhaique, which can also help you with advice and ideas. On the northeast side of the Plaza, you’ll find Bulnes Street, home to the tourist information offices of the National Tourism Service (Sernatur), and a little further on, the offices of PuraPatagonia, another tour operator.
Banking Services? Just south of Bulnes you’ll find Condell, which is the main artery for the national banks and ATMs (cash machines). Banks are open from Monday to Friday, 9 am to 2 pm, but ATMs are available 24 hours a day. There are two money exchange houses near the plaza: Casa de Cambio Tourism Prado on 21 de Mayo, and Casa de Cambio Austral, in Paseo Horn #4, store #3.
Looking for a snack? On the southeastern side of the Plaza, you’ll run into Subteniente Cruz Street. Here there is a bus parked that sells awesome artisan ice cream and a wide selection of other snacks and drinks. If you’d rather sit a while and enjoy a coffee, juice or an ice cold beer, try Fitz Roy Coffee, in front of the plaza between Lord Cochrane and Paseo Horn. This pedestrian street (Paseo Horn), extends a few 100 meters and has several open air cafes and shops, like Café Ricer, which has been offering Patagonian specialties for more than 20
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Condell Street and 21 de Mayo. You can wander around and window shop the entire sector in about an hour, unless you get tempted by some special treasure that catches your eye. If you are with children, and especially if it is a rainy day, walk a block to the northwest of the Plaza, along Balmaceda Street to the Plaza Patagonia Parque de Entretenciones. Their game room, oriented for kids from 6 months up to 12 years may become your new best friend!
years, and Mamma Gaucha that is renowned for its stone-hearth pizzas and home-brew, La Tropera. There are also two great cafes on Dussen: Café y Pastelería Holzer and Te Quiero Café, both with a selection of coffees, juices and delicious pastries. And a couple of blocks to the east of the plaza, on 21 de Mayo, you’ll find several other restaurants and cafes including Café Oriente, Café de Mayo, Café Confluencia and Café Montana.
Need something interesting to do? If you are looking for a special souvenir, visit the Feria Artesanal, located in front of the west side of the plaza. Among the many treasures, you’ll find lots of interesting local crafts like wool sweaters and caps, mate gourds in a variety of materials, leather and woodwork, baskets and jewelry and carved stones depicting myths and legends of Patagonia. The commercial sectors of Coyhaique are primarily found in Prat Street, Paseo Horn,
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And, it is worthwhile to visit the Cathedral of Coyhaique, located in front of the northeast corner of the Plaza. If you could position yourself above, you would notice that the building is shaped like a giant cross. The interior reflects a solemn simplicity produced via the use of local woods and artisans, a huge wooden crucifix and the Virgin of Sorrows, the Patron Saint of the temple. The altar is made of a solitary piece of coigüe and weighs about a ton and a half.
OVERVIEW
»»Activity
Type: Walking tour of the Coyhaique downtown
»»Start: Plaza de Arms, Coyhaique »»End: Plaza de Arms, Coyhaique »»Distance: Approximately 1 kilometer »»Duration: 1 - 4 hours »»Seasonality: Year Round. »»Special Considerations: You will likely
see stray dogs in Coyhaique’s downtown area, as is the case in all the sectors of Chile. In general, if you don’t bother them it is unlikely that they will bother you. The majority of downtown businesses (except restaurants) close between 13:00 - 15:30.
»»Reservations:
Self-guided Some useful contacts:
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Café Confluencia- 21 de mayo 544; Contact: (067) 2245080 Café Konken - Arturo Prat 340; Contact: (09) 93498341; marioguerreropacheco@gmail. com C afé de Mayo - 21 de mayo 543; Contact: (09) 62174897; www. cafedemayo21@gmail.com C afé Montana - 21 de Mayo 417; Contact: (067) 2273073 - (09) 66461430; montanacoffee2013@gmail.com Café Oriente - Condell 201; Contact: (067) 2231622 Café Restaurant Express - Prat 402; Contact: (067) 2242386; adolfofigarend@hotmail.com Cafetería y Chocolatería La Ovejita - Moraleda 599; Contact: (09) 90905636; laovejita.patagonia@gmail.com Café & Pastelería Holzer - Dussen 317; Contact: (067) 2210700; www.holzer.cl Cámara de Turismo de Coyhaique, Kiosk on the western side of the Plaza; Contact: www.aysenpatagonia.cl Cámara de Comercio de Coyhaique, Arturo Prat 348; Contact: (067) 2239523 - (067) 2231918;
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•
•
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•
activity.
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contact@camaracoyhaique.cl; www.camaracoyhaique.cl Casa de Cambio Turismo Prado 21 de Mayo 417 Casa de Cambio Austral - Horn 40, Local 3; Contact: (09) 85893867 Casa del Turismo Rural - Kiosk on the western side of the Plaza; (067) 2214031 - 2524929 - (09) 78988550; contact@casaturismorural.cl; casadelturismorural@gmail.com; www.casaturismorural.cl Catedral of Coyhaique, Our Lady of Sorrows Parish - Plaza de Arms; Contact: Facebook: Parroquia Nuestra Señora de los Dolores Mamma Gaucha - Horn 47; Contact: (067) 2210721; Facebook: Mammagaucha Coyhaique Café Histórico Ricer - Horn 48; Contact: (067) 2232920; www. historicoricer.wordpress.com; Facebook: RestaurantHistoricoRicer. Plaza Patagonia Kids Games and Entertainment Center; Corner of General Parra and Balmaceda (Access via Balmaceda); Contact: (09) 92367525; plazapatagoniaentretenciones@gmail.com; Facebook: PlazaPatagoniaEntretenciones Purapatagonia Excursiones y Expediciones - General Parra 202; Contact: (067) 2246000; info@ purapatagonia.cl; www.purapatagonia.cl The Patagonian Experience - Dussen 317; Contact: (09) 96371858; info@tpe.cl; www.tpe.cl Sernatur, Tourism Information Office; Bulnes 35; Hours: Mondays - Fridays 08:30 – 18:30, Saturdays 10:00-14:00, Closed Sundays; Contact: (067) 2240290 - 2240299; infoaysen@sernatur. cl; www.recorreaysen.cl Te Quiero Café - Dussen 360; Contact: (067) 2210050
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WALK THE SHORES OF THE SIMPSON RIVER, SURROUNDED BY HISTORY AND NATURE
The Simpson River, renowned primarily for its great fly-fishing, is gaining popularity with walkers thanks to a fairly new trail that borders the river, offering a beautiful hike for the whole family amongst exuberant nature just 30 km from the city of Coyhaique. The “El Pescador” Trail that winds through the amazing native forests within the Río Simpson National Reserve, was named in honor of the fishermen that frequent the banks of the River. It’s a quick drive from Coyhaique that offers changing landscapes that evolve from grasslands to temperate rain forest in the space of a few kilometers. Evergreen species abound along the trail, including coigüe, canelo, tepa, mañío, ciruelillo, quila and chilco. The entrance for the Reserve and Trail-head are visible directly across from the Shrine of San Sebastian, 32 km north of Coyhaique on the road to Puerto Aysén. Here you can park, pay your access fee, and if you’re lucky, convince one of the Reserve’s park rangers to guide you on your walk through the forest and teach you about the diverse flora you will encounter. If a ranger is not available, check out the museum and arboretum which are also helpful guides to identifying local flora along the route.
The Hike:
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For the first few paces of the hike you’ll be in a pine forest, part of an experimental reforestation initiative, but you’ll soon leave this behind and enter the native forests of the temperate rain forest ecosystem. You’ll border along the Simpson River for the entire hike, moving between calm and quiet areas and raging white waters, where lucky cormorants fish for trout in what is considered to be the fourth best river on the planet for fly-fishing. If you are quiet and pay attention, you may be rewarded with sightings of some of the shyer forest birds like the chucao and throated huet-huet, whose singing provides the perfect harmonies to the river and the forest setting. If you’re a photographer, this trail is a great spot to capture these often elusive feathered friends.
OVERVIEW
»»Activity Type: Hiking »»Start: Administrative
Area for Conaf, Río Simpson National Reserve
»»End: Administrative Area for Conaf, Río Simpson National Reserve
»»Distance: 5.6 miles, out and back »»Duration: Approximately 2 hours 30 minutes.
»»Seasonality: Year round, from 8:30
am to 17:30 pm with extended hours during the summer, to 19:30 hrs
»»Special Considerations: Wear suit-
able clothes and shoes and carry rain gear, sunglasses, a hat for the sun and sunscreen. Don’t forget carrying water, a snack and your camera. Walk carefully and use the handrails along boardwalk areas as the wood may be slippery due to the humidity.
»»Reservations: Self-guided activity.
The hike travels the same path that the early settlers used to move their carts and merchandise from the port in Puerto Aysén to the inland valleys, and if you keep close watch, you can spot vestiges of these times, like the pathways of tree trunks, called “envaralados”, that were constructed across wetlands and marshes. You’ll also pass a mysterious abandoned stone house covered with moss in the middle of the forest, that local historians are still trying to explain.
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After the stone house, the trail continues to border the river along a stretch with challenging rapids that are popular with local kayakers and rafters. As you continue to advance, you’ll leave the forest and enter an area dominated by the massive leaves of the nalca plant and the colorful red flowers of
the chilco bush. Both of these plants grow especially giant in this ecosystem, as you will surely observe. About 500 meters from here, you’ll reach the trail’s end. You can return along the same trail or flag down one of the many buses that pass through this sector on their route between Puerto Aysén and Coyhaique.
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PUERTO AYSÉN, FROM BRIDGE TO BRIDGE
Puerto Aysén (Port of Aysén) is the second largest city in the region; full of history and nature, great food and fun. The one thing Puerto Aysén is NOT – is a port! Take a walking tour of town to learn why there are beached ships and ancient docks in this seemingly misnamed city. Today, Puerto Aysén is the second largest city in the region, but for many years it was the largest and most important, the designated capital of the region and the official port of entry for Chilean Patagonia. During the first several decades of the 1900s, the city of Puerto Aysén was a renowned hub of intense commercial activity, including a tremendous timber production and significant livestock and wool trade. Large ships would sail up the Aysén River on a daily basis, docking at the vibrant port which facilitated trade between Aysén, Puerto Montt and Punta Arenas.
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But the pace of the economic bonanza of Puerto Aysén proved unsustainable. Over timbering, wildfires used for clearing land, massive livestock grazing, and the natural conditions and climate of Aysén all converged in the early 1960s, resulting in an enormous accumulation of sediments in the Aysén River that no longer permitted the movement of large boats. The port was moved 14 kilometers west to Puerto Chacabuco, forever affecting the growth and productivity of this once vibrant port. The city’s situation was worsened by the designation of Coyhaique as regional capital in 1976. In the late 1980s the city’s fate began to improve as a result of growth resulting from the arrival of salmon farming and later, tourism. Today, Puerto Aysén and Puerto Chacabuco are inseparably linked; Aysén provides the infrastructure and basis for great visitor experiences and Chacabuco provides the bay and access to the sea. We suggest you begin your tour of Puerto Aysén in the city’s artisan market located on the south bank of the Aysén River. Craftsmen from all over the region work from this market during the summer months, offering a variety of handmade crafts that range from traditional woolen sweaters to wallets and
handbags made from salmon skins. And don’t forget to look for the delicious handmade chocolates of Puerto Aysén, filled with local fruits like calafate, murta and rose hips; definitely a delicious “trail mix” to enjoy during this urban hike. Leaving the market, head north, over the beautiful President Ibáñez Bridge, which is a National Monument and a critical artery for the movement of goods throughout the Region. Its 210 meter length makes it the longest suspension bridge in Chile, and as you cross over, you will be able to observe its complex structure with hundreds of huge metal support cables. The bridge was a pivotal symbol and strategy for the 2012 “Social Movement of Aysén”, when inhabitants of the region, mobilized by demands that the State make long-needed social and economic improvements, prevented use of the bridge for more than 30 days via roadblocks and demonstrations.
Continue straight two blocks and take a left onto Sargento Aldea. As you walk along this street you’ll get a feel for the day to day rhythms of life in the city, with opportunities for great window shopping and people watching. Keep in mind that you’re also tracing the history of this sector; if you walk all the way to the end of this street you’ll end up at the Old Port, which formerly welcomed ships from all over the world. Leaving the Old Port, head for the adjacent Aguas Muertas Docks. The scene is one of the main postcards of Puerto Aysén, with a colorful collection of small fishing and touring boats. It’s a great place to talk with local fishermen, reminisce about the “golden era” or contract a day excursion to explore the nearby waters. If you keep walking, you will find the suspension bridge that crosses the Los Palos River. Here you have two options: 1) continue toward the right for 10 km to the Los Palos Lake sector, where you’ll be surrounded by
If you’re ready for some great food after your walk, try one of these great seafood spots: Isla Verde (Teniente Merino 710, (067) 2334583); Cabanas Patagonia Green (Lago Riesco Ave. s/n, Puerto Aysén, (067) 2336796, www.patagoniagreen.cl); or Café Entre Amigos (Sargento Aldea 1077, (067) 2333433).
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TRAVELERS’ TIPS
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OVERVIEW »»Activity Type: Walking Puerto Aysén.
»»Start:
Aysén.
tour of
Artisan Center of Puerto
»»End: Suspension bridge that crosses the Los Palos River
»»Distance: Puerto Aysén is approximately 67 km (1 hour) west of Coyhaique. The walking tour is 2 – 5 km, depending on your chosen route.
»»Duration: 2 – 4 hours »»Seasonality: Year Round »»Special Considerations:
We suggest bringing a good pair of walking shoes, a raincoat and your camera.
»»Reservations: Self-guided activity.
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the beautiful waters of the lake, huge native forests, impressive snow-capped mountains, small waterfalls and beautiful beaches; or 2) head toward the left for 8 km to the Acantilada Bay in the Aysén fjord, one of the favorite summer swimming spots for local Ayseninas.
EXPLORE THE BACK ROADS AND NATURE OF PUERTO AYSÉN
Puerto Aysén is blessed in terms of natural wonders. With lush greenery, towering mountains, numerous lakes and rivers, you’ll quickly discover why Puerto Aysén is so popular with fans of nature photography and outdoor sports. Grab a bike or 4x4 and let’s go discover the incredible nature around Puerto Aysén! Start your exploration in Puerto Aysén heading west on Route 240 in the direction of Puerto Chacabuco. You’ll probably want to stop right away for a few photos of the President Ibáñez Bridge which is a National Monument and the longest suspension bridge in Chile. It is an engineering marvel, stretching 210 meters in length with hundreds of huge metal cables to support the slab. At the intersection of Route 240 and Route X-550, veer to the left. This road leads directly to Riesco Lake (22 Km), which is excellent for kayaking, fishing or just relaxing along the beach. The road is gravel and the slopes are gentle so it is ideal for bikes. During the first part of the journey you’ll border the Aysén River which runs all the way to the Pacific Ocean. The river has several whitewater sections with class III rapids and is considered intermediate level for rafting or kayaking, mainly because of the challenges it presents in the sections where it joins the Mañihuales and Simpson Rivers. If you are interested in a kayak excursion, you can contact Aguahielo Expeditions, which offers several excursions in the area.
Around Km 15, you’ll see the small cable-ferry used for vehicle crossings of the Blanco River. The ferry is powered by the flow of the river and uses an interesting system of cables and pulleys, operated by the ferry
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As you get closer to the lake, you’ll notice that the vegetation becomes denser and even lusher. Watch for calafate, one of the emblematic fruits of Patagonia. It grows on a medium sized, thorny, evergreen bush and produces a small, edible, purple berry during the summer months. Tehuelche legend says that people who eat calafate berries will be bound to Patagonia, so, if you’d like to come back some day, be sure to give these berries a try!
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TRAVELERS’ TIPS
»»Patagonia
Green Tourism offers half and full day bicycle tours of the areas surrounding Puerto Aysén, including Acantilado Bahía, Caracoles River, Pangal River and Los Palos River. They also have an excellent hotel, cabanas and one of the best restaurants in the area. They are located 400 meters from the south entrance of the President Ibáñez Bridge, along Route X-550. Contact: (067) 2336796; infogreen@patagoniachile.cl; www.patagoniagreen.cl
»»Aguahielo
Expediciones offers tours and kayaking expeditions in the lakes and rivers of the Puerto Aysén area, in addition to the Baker River and San Rafael Lagoon. Their tours include instruction for kayakers of all levels. They are located at Carrera 1410 in Puerto Aysén. Contact: (09) 76053580; info@aguahielo.cl; www. aguahielo.cl; Facebook: AguaHielo Expediciones
»»If you enjoy camping, we recom-
mend a visit to La Pancha Ecotourism, located at kilometer 7 on the way to Los Palos Lagoon near Puerto Aysén. They offer camping, kayaking, horseback riding and use of their quincho. Contact: (09) 98878572; (067) 2333067; quincholapancha@gmail.com; www.ecoturismolapancha.cl; Facebook: Ecoturismo la Pancha.
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master who lives nearby. The crossing has no cost and operates from Monday to Sunday between 8:30 to 12:30 and from 13:30 to 17:30. Continuing straight on Route X-550 until kilometer 22, you will take a right along the entry road that leads to the Beach of Riesco Lake, a favorite summer spot for locals who enjoy this lake’s calm waters of glacial origin and the ancient myrtle trees that form the backdrop for the extensive beach. From here, you can go back to Puerto Aysén or continue your adventure to the Condor River sector, 13 km further south. This stretch of the road is President Ibáñez Bridge more challenging, with steep slopes and lots of curves, but the scenery makes it worth the effort; vividly green native forests
with coigües, tepas, canelos and thousands of ferns and mosses, contrasting with the whites of the waterfalls that cascade along the sides of the road. You’ll advance two more kilometers along Route X-550 and then veer to the right, following a winding farm road through the beautiful landscapes. The ride ends at Ciervo Creek, at the base of one of the most beautiful cascades and the Andrade Farm, owned by Don Juan Andrade, a settler who came to this area in the 1980s. If you have the opportunity, sit and talk with him; he is an expert on the area and has lots of great stories to share.
OVERVIEW
»»Activity Type: Bike or 4x4 tour of
one of the natural areas around Puerto Aysén.
»»Start: Puerto Aysén. »»End: Puerto Aysén. »»Distance: 70 km from
Puerto Aysén to Río Condor and back.
»»Duration: 3 – 8 hours, depending on your travel mode.
is advisable to wear layers and bring rain gear, sun protection, water and snacks. As with all biking in Aysén, you should ride defensively, be prepared for the need for back-country repairs and use safety equipment like helmets, reflective lights, and bright clothing.
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»»Seasonality: Year Round. »»Special Considerations: It
»»Reservations: Self-guided activity.
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GET TO KNOW MAÑIHUALINA STYLE HOSPITALITY; IT’S A REAL LIFESAVER!
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Take some time to share the relaxing pace of Villa Mañihuales, famous for its fly-fishing and gaucho style hospitality. When we say that mañihualina style hospitality is a real lifesaver we are not exaggerating; the community spirit and celebrations of Villa Mañihuales have literally saved the lives of hundreds of local families. More about that in a bit! First, let’s get you there. Villa Mañihuales is located along the Carretera Austral (Route 7), 75 km north of Coyhaique and 95 Km south of Queulat National Park, at the confluence of the Mañihuales and Ñirehuao Rivers. It’s a beautiful drive, from either direction, full of rural landscapes brimming with wildflowers, forests and rivers. From the south, you’ll pass stretches of the Coyhaique, Simpson, Correntoso, Aysén, Ñirehuao and Mañihuales Rivers along the route, so if you are a fly-fishing fan, bring your equipment, and if not, bring your camera; either way it’s a drive that’s not to be missed. The area is lush and green, characteristic of its temperate rainforest ecosystem, with waterfalls in all directions and more than 300 days of rain each year. In an area that receives so much rainfall, the dense forest coverage is important for protecting against erosion and landslides. Without it, the steep slopes would push all that water and debris down into the rivers below; precisely what occurred in this area of Aysén in the early 1960s. During the preceding decades there had been tremendous timbering and clearing in the region, both for the construction of new towns and as the primary driver of the local economy through timber exports. Much of the native forest cover had been removed or impacted, producing a sort of giant ecosystemic game of dominoes that played itself out in the region during May of 1966. The rainy autumn season of this year was particularly heavy, beginning in March and lasting well into the winter months of June and July. By May, the soils were heavy and dense and could take no more. Water began
moving from the high lands down into the valleys and riverbeds, carrying along everything in their path. Landslides and flooding were widespread and especially massive in the rivers of this sector. The Simpson, Coyhaique, Aysén and Correntoso Rivers overflowed leaving thousands of people trapped and isolated. Puerto Aysén was the city most affected, only 18 blocks remained above water and the channels of the port were permanently altered; the tremendous accumulation of sediments carried downstream by the Aysén River during the May floods filled in the channel making it no longer suitable for large boat traffic. It had to be decommissioned and relocated to Puerto Chacabuco, 14 km further west.
What happened in Villa Mañihuales?
The floods and landslides of 1966 produced lasting repercussions for much of the Region of Aysén, changing the trajectories of several towns and cities, including Coyhaique and Puerto Aysén, and teaching all, including the region’s foresters, important lessons about ecosystem management and protection. Today, you can visit the Mañihuales Forest Reserve, right in the center of town, and learn about the responses made to protect the valuable and sensitive nature of this area. This reforestation project has helped shore up the terrains around Mañihuales, providing protection for the town and its native fauna, like huemules, pumas, foxes and condors, among others. With such great nature as a
TRAVELERS’ TIPS Are you interested in experiencing a Mañihualina style festival? The Fiesta Campesina de Villa Mañihuales takes place annually, during the third week of February, with traditional music, rodeo, fly fishing, typical games, and a huge Patagonian asado. Contact the municipality for more information: (067) 2314141.
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Well, as we mentioned earlier, Mañihualinos have a long tradition of celebrating together and are happy to turn just about any occasion into a great party. Whether it is a national holiday, a local sports event or a neighbor’s barn raising, this community loves to gather around good food, good music and good times. And on May 21, 1966, this grand community spirit saved their lives! The entire community had braved the rains and gathered in the local Rodeo Club celebrating a national holiday that memorializes the soldiers and naval traditions of Chile. We are talking about 50+ years ago, before twitter, television, or Facebook, so they had no idea of the floods and disasters happening in the rest of the region or the danger they were in. Naturally, it came as a complete surprise when suddenly, on the other side of the Ñirehuao River, the towering mountains gave way, producing an enormous landslide that pummeled down, straight through the center of town, destroying everything in its path; the village, the houses, the school and other public buildings. Miraculously, the Rodeo Club was located on the other side of the river and all lives were spared! In true
Mañihualino spirit, the 2,000 survivors of the rockslide worked together to slowly rebuild their beloved pueblo, maintaining their hospitality and collaborative spirit, alive and stronger than ever. Today, Villa Mañihuales is home to a diverse community of a few thousand miners who work in the nearby Toqui mine, farmers, sons of pioneers, park rangers and foresters. It is a community with several active associations and groups that get involved in the planning and management of the area, making sure that it continues to develop while preserving its important traditions and spirit of gracious hospitality to its visitors.
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OVERVIEW
»»Activity
•
»»Start: Coyhaique or Queulat National
•
»»End:
Villa Mañihuales and its Forest Reserve.
•
75 km north of Coyhaique and 95 km south of Queulat National Park.
•
Type: A visit to Villa Mañihuales, its National Reserve and many nearby rivers. Park.
»»Distance: Villa Mañihuales is located »»Duration:
1 - 3 days, depending on your preferences.
»»Seasonality: Year round. »»Special Considerations: If you plan to fish, you’ll need a license, available online: www.sernapesca.cl. Inform yourself on regional fishing policies and practices including ways in which you can help prevent the spread of Didymo (www.didymo.cl), a highly invasive alga that has contaminated rivers throughout the world, including many in Aysén.
»»Reservations:
Self-guided activity. Some options of accommodation and food in the village include:
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Cabañas La Ruka - Eusebio Ibar 865; (09)78003768 - 85285259; egcaro@hotmail.es
“backyard” Villa Mañihuales has lots to offer visitors. There is great camping right in town that attracts cyclists and backpackers from all over the world. In its rivers, you will find a great abundance of rainbow and brown trout and plenty of great shoreline with public access. There are several local restaurants that offer a range of traditional fare
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Residencial Mañihuales - Eusebio Ibar 280; (067) 2431403; pablo.caromansilla@gmail.com Camping Mañihuales National Reserve - Las Lavanderas Km 65; Reserve with the park guards. Restaurant Lucymarc - General Marchant 141; (09) 97661027 81923249; lucy.pizarro.prado@gmail. com La Cocina de Yussef - Carretera Austral s/n, Popular restaurant with travelers who are seeking a break from the Carretera Austral and a great lunch or coffee. Supermercado Carretera Austral Carretera Austral s/n, This supermaket has a bit of everything, including an ATM Cash Machine. Panadería y Provisiones El Camionero - Carretera Austral s/n, This small market offers great food, to go, like empanadas, chaparritas and sandwiches. They offer a public bathroom, free to customers and a few hundred pesos for others. Cafetería Luis Nick - Carretera Austral northern end of town; (067) 2431376 - (09) 85285259; great lunches and sandwiches.
and supermarkets for fueling up your next adventure. What’s more, the famous Rodeo Club continues to offer lots of gaucho and hauso events and celebrations, (hausos are cowboys from the central valleys of Chile), keeping the traditions of the pioneers very much alive.
IN SEARCH OF THE CONTRASTING LANDSCAPES OF THE MAÑIHUALES SECTOR
Without a doubt, the development and settlement of Patagonia have left traces on its landscapes and culture; contrasts of the delicate balance between livelihood, economic opportunity and healthy natural ecosystems. This half-day circuit takes you off the beaten path to see and consider a variety of these traces for yourself.
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This untraditional tour takes you off the beaten path and outside the typical tourist routes. You’ll begin and end in the village of Villa Mañihuales, where the majority of the Toqui mine workers have their homes. Mining is the most important economic activity for Mañihuales and the sector, producing a solid economic base for nearly 4,000 inhabitants, and the justification for having good schools, recreation facilities, stores and services; all important factors for recruiting and maintaining workers. The first mining prospections in the Aysén Region were related to early explorers’ quests to find the mythical “City of the Caesars”, a city of gold that the Spanish conquistadors of the sixteenth century believed to exist somewhere in Patagonia. Hundreds of years later, at the end of the nineteenth century, explorers arrived again, also searching for gold, but this time in the form of veins trapped within the quartz and granite found in many sectors of Aysén. In 1904, the inevitable occurred when Mauricio Braun and John Dunn made the first findings of metals in Aysén. Within a few decades, mining in Aysén was booming; by 1940 the region produced more lead and zinc than anywhere else in Chile (a country where mining is king!). During those years, the epicenter of the mining in Aysén was further south, centered along the southern shoreline of General Carrera Lake. In the 1930s and 40s, tens of thousands of workers flooded into the towns bordering the lake, like Chile Chico, Guadal and Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez, and most were quickly dispersed amongst the mining camps in Puerto Sánchez and Puerto Cristal. Many communities doubled or tripled in size during this boom, even adjacent towns like Bahia Murta, which offered the timber and building materials
211
critical for the construction of jetties and settlements to support the mines.
Contemporary mining in Aysén Today, there are two major mining operations in the region, the gold mine in the Paso las Llaves sector, between Mallín Grande and Chile Chico, and El Toqui mine which has been in operation since 1983 in the sector of the Mañihuales and Ñirehuao Rivers, producing gold, lead, silver and zinc. Nevertheless, gold fever is more alive than ever in the Patagonia; in 2012 the region designated 635,802 hectares to mining concessions, 89% of which were for exploration, mainly in search of gold.
The Tour Stop in the Villa to buy coffee or snacks for the route, as the stores open early to provide services to the workers who are starting their day. Head north out of the village along the Carretera Austral to the crossing with Route X-421 (Km 28) that leads to the El
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Toqui mine. From here on, the road is gravel, passing through quickly changing landscapes that begin with farms and large fields, full of fallen tree trunks that pay homage to the grand forests that predated the fires of the early years of the twentieth century. You’ll begin to climb, surrounded by native forests on the mountains that surround you and the Ñirehuao River far below to your left. Keep your attention on the road which winds and climbs through this section; at any moment you may find yourself face to face with the giant trucks of the mines which are used to having this road basically to themselves. A little further the road descends and levels out, and here you will find the welcome signs for the El Toqui mine and shortly thereafter, the camp itself, with various houses painted in bright colors, machinery and the infrastructure, including offices, the mines and of course, the overflow pools. The scale and modernity of the infrastructure are impressive and in stark contrast with the natural and rural landscapes of the area. Nyrstar (www.
nyrstar.com) a Belgian company, is owner of the deposit, with 460 direct workers and another 200 contractors. In this sector you will also want to be careful, first, for the presence of trucks and buses of the mine, and second, because the company sometimes reroutes the roads to prevent problems between their trucks and passenger vehicles. Follow the signs carefully! Once you’ve passed the mine, follow the signage indicating the public road that winds its way toward the tiny village of El Gato. The landscape changes dramatically, transporting you from the modern realities of heavy industry to scenery that has existed practically untouched for centuries. What more appropriate gateway to mark this sharp contrast than two small streams that stand between you and the road you must follow?!? There’s no bridge here so you’ll need to cross; they are small and should be no problem; engage your 4-wheel drive and then advance slowly and steadily to the other side. Now that you’ve met these early challenges, the rest of the route is a piece of cake. Just after the streams, you’ll encounter a fork in the road (Km 45) and you’ll bear to the right. From there you’ll just follow the road. In the first few kilometers, you’ll wind past country churches and beautiful wetlands full of native and migratory birds, lagoons, creeks and natural pools that almost touch the road. At the end of the giant wetland you’ll encounter an enormous field with millions of yellow, pink, or purple flowers, depending on the season. From here the road begins to climb toward a beautiful pass with a mature native forest of lenga and ñirre that glows with vibrant oranges and yellows and reds in autumn. In this
sector you’ll encounter pioneer era barns and fences that show century old building practices, including canogas (hollowed out trees, halved lengthwise and overlapped to form rustic roofs), tejuelas (ax hued wooden shingles) and traditional “palo a pique” fences. Keep a watch for gauchos working with cattle and sheep in this area; you may even be treated to a show as they round up their animals using Patagonian sheepdogs.
To complete this circuit, turn right at the intersection and head back to Villa Mañihuales (approximately 24 kilometers).
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Toward the end of this road, you’ll make a steep descent into the tiny village of El Gato. Here you’ll notice the tragic implications of the fires, with a landscape heavily impacted by deforestation and erosion. El Gato is a tiny place, familiar only to its inhabitants and fly-fishermen who come to visit the exclusive lodges that are located in this area. But collections of tiny villages like this were precisely how this region began its course of development: widespread collections of a couple of houses in the middle of immense nature that little by little began to grow and form villages. El Gato remains tiny however; it does have a couple of small markets, where you can stop for a snack, a rural school, a first-aid post and a community center.
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OVERVIEW
»»Type of Activity: 4x4 back roads circuit.
»»Start: Villa Mañihuales. »»End: Villa Mañihuales. »»Distance: 85 Km. »»Duration: 4 - 6 hours approximately. »»Seasonality: Year round, depending on local conditions. During winter when there is snow you will definitely need chains, four wheel drive and experience driving in winter back road conditions!
»»Special
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Considerations: Drive with caution, since it is common to encounter cattle or trucks on the road. The signage is not optimal, so keep an eye on your odometer and follow the descriptions provided. If you feel lost, stop at a nearby farm and ask for directions. We recommend bringing snacks and water, because there are few stores along the way.
• • • •
• •
»»Reservations:
Self-guided activity. If you want more information about Nyrstar and the El Toqui Mine, you can visit their company website or contact: communications@ nyrstar.com. Some of the services available in Villa Mañihuales include:
•
Cabanas La Ruca - Eusebio Ibar
•
865; (09)78003768 - 85285259; egcaro@hotmail.es Residencial Mañihuales - Eusebio Ibar 280; (067) 2431403; pablo.caromansilla@gmail.com Camping Mañihuales National Reserve - Las Lavanderas Km 65; Reserve with the park guards. Restaurant Lucymarc - General Marchant 141; (09) 97661027 81923249; lucy.pizarro.prado@ gmail.com La Cocina de Yussef - Carretera Austral s/n, Popular restaurant with travelers who are seeking a break from the Carretera Austral and a great lunch or coffee. Supermercado Carretera Austral Carretera Austral s/n, This supermaket has a bit of everything, including an ATM Cash Machine. Panadería y Provisiones El Camionero - Carretera Austral s/n, This small market offers great food, to go, like empanadas, chaparritas and sandwiches. They offer a public bathroom, free to customers and a few hundred pesos for others. Cafetería Luis Nick - Carretera Austral northern end of town; (067) 2431376 - (09) 85285259; great lunches and sandwiches.
TIME TRAVEL THROUGH THE STREETS OF COYHAIQUE
Coyhaique, the capital of the Aysén Region, was founded in 1928. If you have a couple of hours and a bike or good shoes, you can learn about its history and traditions by visiting its neighborhoods and historical landmarks. After a few days traveling along the Carretera Austral, reaching Coyhaique is sure to be a bit of a shock. After hours of silence and solitude, the small regional capital can seem a flurry of urban activity, where suddenly, it’s possible to find of everything. Hotels, restaurants, pharmacies, gas stations and shops, everything a traveler needs to continue (or start) their trip. Despite its seeming urban nature, Coyhaique is a city that can easily be toured by walking or by bike. Coyhaique was founded in 1928 with the original name of Baquedano and first populated by workers of the Industrial Society of Aysén, which was dedicated to sheep ranching. During the 1930s, the livestock that once populated the city’s center were moved to other pastures and the development of the city was taken over by the State. A great way to get to know this city and its history is by getting a map from your hotel or a downtown tourist information center (check the kiosk on the west side of the Plaza de Arms) and taking a walk or bike ride around the neighborhoods and sites.
Depart from the Plaza de Arms on Paseo Horn, heading southwest toward Arturo Prat.
Follow the road up and around to the El Claro Sector, home of Coyhaique’s rodeo arena and Club, the site for important celebrations like the City’s Anniversary and the regional fair, Expo Patagonia. When you
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Take a left, continue 4 blocks to Av Simpson and turn right, advancing a couple of blocks to the road on your left that descends toward the Simpson River. You’ll soon pass over a hanging bridge. Take a look toward your right and you’ll see the Piedra del Indio (Rock of the Indian), a weathered rock cliff that has been molded by the force of the winds to resemble an Indian brave; thus inspiring its name.
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reach the intersection that ends this sector, take a left to wind your way back to Coyhaique, crossing back above the Simpson River and eventually coming face to face with a giant hand holding a mate gourd and straw, a sculptural testimony to the influential gaucho culture present in the region. At the giant mate, follow the roundabout to the north, along the road that borders the Simpson River. Immediately after the roundabout, on the right-hand side, you will see a small park with wooden sculptures representative of the settlers in the area, and a little beyond, on the left side, an impressive overlook of the River and Cerro MacKay. Follow this road, which is the bypass for the Carretera Austral, approximately 3 kilometers and just before the Coyhaique Bridge, take the fork to the right, onto Baquedano Avenue, the northern entrance to the city. You’re leaving the waterfront sector now, on the way up to the top of Baquedano Avenue, to visit some of the oldest and most historic buildings of the city. You’ll climb a total of 3 kilometers to the remaining buildings of the Industrial Society of Aysén (SIA), which date back to the 1930s and were declared Historical Monuments in 2009. On the way up you’ll pass the city’s main police station, several of the oldest and finest hotels, the historic cemetery on the left, and the Dolbek Brewery entrance on the right. After the crossing for Tejas Verdes, you will see a stone barn which originally housed the SIA workers’ mess hall. Just in front of the mess hall you’ll find the building that housed the company store.
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Descending back to the center of town, again for Baquedano, you’ll come a boulevard type park, home to the Pioneer Square and one of the greatest landmarks of the city, the Monument to the Ovejero (Shepherd). Built in granite, this sculpture celebrates a shepherd with his horse and dogs, leading his flock. It was built in Punta Arenas in 1944
and brought to its final home in Coyhaique. Later, in 1962, the city of Punta Arenas decided it liked the sculpture so much that it commissioned a bronze replica so that it could honor this historic profession as well. In this same plaza, you’ll find other interesting tributes to the history of Coyhaique, like the Monument Celebrating the role of Chilotes (persons from the Island of Chiloé) in the development of the Region. There is also a giant wagon, called a “Chata” which was one of the first means of overland transport for the region. Pulled by 12 horses, it was used to travel to Argentina and could carry up to 6 thousand kilos of goods. Now it’s time to explore the city’s center, marked by the location of the Plaza de Arms and the administrative and commercial development in the surrounding blocks. To visit the Plaza de Arms which is, without a doubt, the social center of the city, turn left onto Condell Street and travel three blocks until you intersect with the plaza.
TRAVELERS’ TIPS By the end of 2015, the Industrial Society of Aysén lands will not only be a National Monument, they will be the site of the first official Regional Museum of Aysén. The project includes restoration of several of the historic buildings including the company store, workers’ houses and the dining hall, among others. As well, the project will establish a learning and support network between the curators and experts in Coyhaique and local museums like including Valle Simpson, Villa Ortega, El Blanco, Balmaceda, Cerro Castillo, Cochrane and Villa O’Higgins.
OVERVIEW
»»Activity
Type: Historic walking or bike tour of Coyhaique.
The social nature of the Plaza predates the founding of the city. Around 1925, when the SIA managed the lands that today form Coyhaique, this sector was called “La Pampa del Corral”, filled with paddocks for troperos’ animals, so that these weary travelers could take a much needed rest. Gradually, the pampa evolved to include fun events, like Chilean style horse races, football matches and typical games like the Taba ( a sort of horseshoes like game), and Truco (a betting, lying, rhyming card game). In 1928, the Ministry of Lands and Colonization designed the first subdivisions of the city and the layout of the Plaza de Arms, which is unique within Chile and features ten streets that converge at its perimeter. On the north side of the Plaza, you’ll find the Cathedral of Coyhaique, inaugurated in 1970 as a replacement for the previous cathedral that was destroyed in a fire in 1960. The building was built using local hardwoods, like coigüe and mañío, and local workers and companies, in a collective effort represen-
»»Start: Plaza de Armas. »»End: Plaza de Armas. »»Distance: Approximately 12 Km. »»Duration: 2 - 4 hours. »»Seasonality: Year Round »»Special Considerations: If you
choose to bike, be aware that you will be integrated with traffic; there are no bike paths.
»»Reservations:
Self-guided activity. You can rent bicycles at the following locations near the Plaza de Arms:
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Historic Café Ricer – Paseo Horn 48; (067) 2232920; www. hi s t o r ico r ice r.wo rd p re s s . com; Facebook: RestaurantHistoricoRicer Purapatagonia Excursions & Expeditions - General Parra 202; (067) 2246000; info@purapatagonia.cl; www.purapatagonia.cl
tative of the community spirit that has remained strong throughout the development of Patagonia.
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End your tour of the historic city center in Paseo Horn, the footpath on the southeast side of the Plaza that extends approximately 100 meters between the Plaza and Baquedano and features several shops and open air eateries, including the Historic Café Ricer (Paseo Horn 48), a busy café and restaurant that always has great lunch specials, coffees and local fare. In addition to great food, the restaurant (and especially the second floor), has lots of books and historic photos and artifacts about the history of Coyhaique, Aysén and Patagonia. And they also rent bicycles so if you want, start with breakfast and a cup of coffee and end with lunch or an ice-cream after your tour!
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DISCOVER LOCAL FLAVORS IN THE “PICADAS” OF THE CAPITAL
Nothing better for making one feel welcome than a generous plate of homemade food. “Picadas” are those special local restaurants where the food is plentiful and the hosts are authentic, great ambassadors for the identity and traditional gastronomy of a place. Get ready to tour the picadas of Coyhaique, Bon appetit! Picadas are sought after for their fair prices, the abundance of their dishes and their traditional homemade preparations. You can find them throughout the Region of Aysén, and in Coyhaique, we can assure that you that there are an abundance of picadas, brimming with great food and true regional identity. We’ll start with the legendary Casino de Bomberos (General Parra #365; (067) 2231437), chosen as the best picada of the region in a contest held by the National Council for Culture and the Arts in 2012. Specials of the house include steaks, fish, empanadas (hand-held pastries stuffed with meats of cheese), papas rellenas (same as empanadas but enveloped in potatoes) and pichangas (think of it as a Patagonian pupu platter). Service includes daily lunch specials and empanadas to go.
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Lito’s restaurant (Lautaro #147; (067) 2254528), is famous for its preparations of local beef, all year round, and seafood specialties, according to what’s in season. Don’t miss their pichangas and delicious pisco sours, accompanied by tortas fritas and house-recipe pebre sauce. You’d never guess such a great restaurant was hiding inside its humble exterior, and in addition to a charming atmosphere, the service is excellent and the owner is always nearby! In the Comedor Restaurant (12 de October #337; (067) 2210840), the rustic carvings, photos and decor transport you to a farmhouse dining room somewhere in the countryside of Aysén. The comfortable atmosphere makes the food even more tasty and authentic, featuring proprietary recipes for fish, seafood and regional meats, accompanied by garden fresh salads, tortas fritas and pebre. During the spring and early sum-
mer, the menu features various preparations of chiporro, which is young lamb, weighing between 12 and 14 kilos, when the meat is at its most tender. Don Luis, the owner, will even prepare a traditional lamb asado, with prior coordination. For those looking for the experience of sharing an authentic meal in a Patagonian house, the ideal place is El Mastique (Bilbao # 141; Contact: (09) 96824067). This Coyhaique mainstay has been open since 1995, and is renowned for big plates and authentic Chilean cuisine. Typical dishes include guatitas (a stew made with strips of the stomach of cows), charquican (a stew that features dried, roasted meats – and sometimes the
TRAVELERS’ TIPS These picadas are only a few of the many that you can find in Coyhaique and throughout the region. If you find yourself with other travelers, an exchange of tips about the great picadas in the local area is a great way to start a conversation!
The Loberías de Chacabuco Restaurant is another traditional picada (Eusebio Lillo #366; (09) 82841296). Don Juan, the owner, learned the restaurant trade working for the classic Aysén Hotel in the years that Puerto Aysén was the capital of the region, sharing: “there we even served the President of the Republic”. When he moved to Coyhaique, he decided it was time to become independent and opened his own restaurant. He serves a variety of lunch specials but his true passion is seafood. We can definitely recom-
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meat is horse), Chilean beans, noodles with red sauce, cazuela, beef stew, and salmon, among others. In 2011, Sercotec recognized the owner, Señora Carmen Hernandez,for her contributions to the conservation and celebration of traditional Chilean recipes.
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mend the paila marina, the fried fish and, in season, puyes, jaibas (stone crabs) and (centollas) spider crabs. If you’re interested in eating with local farmers and gauchos, you’ll want to head to the Moneda de Oro (Arturo Prat #431; Contact: (067) 2233321). Here, you’ll dine with Ayseninos from all over the region who have ventured in from the farms for some sort of business in the capital. Of course, while they’re in town, they make it a point to enjoy the great food and service in their favorite picada. Bet you can guess the specialty of the house – meat and potatoes!!!
OVERVIEW
»»Activity Type: Gastronomic tour in search of the best picadas of Coyhaique.
»»Start: The picada of your choice. »»End: With a cup of coffee after a great meal.
»»Distance: All of these picadas are
located in the central sector of the city, in a radius of 8 blocks of the Plaza.
»»Duration: 1 to 2 hours. »»Seasonality: Year round. »»Special Considerations:
Picadas tend to fill up with locals during the 13:00 to 15:00, lunch “hour”. It’s advisable to go early.
»»Reservations: The Restaurants do not require reservations and are generally open during the lunch hour (13:00 to 15:00) and for dinner (20:00 – 22:00).
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COYHAIQUE NATIONAL RESERVE, 100% NATURE, JUST PACES FROM TOWN
It’s not necessary to travel hours from the city to get to know the natural beauties of Patagonia. The Coyhaique National Reserve is located just a few minutes from the regional capital, with 200 year old forests of lenga and more than 12 kilometers of trails, for every level and taste. There are hikes for everyone in this National Reserve, located just 3 km from Coyhaique. To get there, you can even walk or bike, but it’s a steep uphill climb so if you prefer a taxi, make your way to the Plaza where they are always ready for action. From there, you’ll head east on Condell to Baquedano and make a left, headed out of town toward the bridge over the Coyhaique River. Just past this bridge, (which is to the right at the intersection of Baquedano with the Carretera Austral), you’ll see the sign for the Reserve on the right. Follow the access road beside the sign for 1.5 km to the entrance and park ranger station.
Trails and Sites: One of the greatest attractions of the Reserve is a mature lenga forest with specimens that are over 200 years old. The forest is in pristine condition without intervention, generating a great example of a semi shade ecosystem that allows seeds to germinate and naturally regenerate the forest. If you keep heading up the trails to 1100m you will find another important dynamic of Patago-
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Like many of the region’s National Reserves, this protected wildlife area was created to help avoid erosion after the many large-scale fires that ravaged the area around the city at the start of the colonization. That’s why you’ll encounter approximately 700 hectares of pine trees in the Reserve. They were planted to help shore up the side of the mountain in order to assist the area’s recovery and reduce the amount of sediments in the river below. As curious as it may sound, these introduced species played an important role in the protection of native species during the latter part of the twentieth century, and today, you’ll see an interesting mix of both in the Reserve.
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nian forests; here the lengas are also mature, however, due to harsh temperatures, winds and the weight of the snow in the winter, they grow much slower and develop much more stocky, almost like natural Patagonian bonsais. One of the most visited places in the Reserve is Laguna Verde. On the way up to the Lagoon area, you will see a sign directing you to the right, to the “Casa de Brujas” (Witch’s House). Don’t panic! Historically, in the times of colonization, pioneers would attempt to construct their houses rapidly in order to stake a claim over the land. To avoid being discovered, the houses were “prefabricated” and then secretly assembled during the night, giving the illusion that they had magically appeared from one day to the next, thus the name “witches’ houses”. The Witch’s House in the Reserve is a small museum, paying homage to that time. At Laguna Verde there is a camping area with quinchos, barbecue grills, tables, toilets, showers, laundry and dishwasher. There is also a large barbecue area for special events. In the sector you can walk a quiet 800 meters trail that runs along the entire perimeter of the lagoon and count how many rainbow trout you can spot in the transparent waters, and how many different birds you can identify. There is also a wheelchair accessible trail that leads to a fantastic overlook of Coyhaique, far below. If you enjoy hiking, one of the most challenging trails in the reserve is the one to the summit of the Cinchao peak. It’s a 4 km climb that can be hiked in about 3 hours, de-
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pending on your physical state, the amount of photos that you take on the way, and the wind. The first 2.5 km is along a gently sloping trail that winds between a forest of lenga, ñirre and coigüe. The next kilometer takes you above the tree line and has a markedly steeper slope, so make sure you protect yourself from the wind and walk with more caution. The gusts can be wicked! The last part is the most difficult, with a steep slope and a loose stone surface but if you tough it out, you’ll be rewarded with a spectacular view of the whole city and the surrounding mountains, including Mano Negra and Divisadero, when you reach the summit.
TRAVELERS’ TIPS
»»If your stay in the Region is short, a
visit to this Reserve is a great way to learn about the forests of Aysén and to spend a while amongst the nature of the area. It’s well worth the taxi ride!
»»The recommendation to come by
taxi can also save you from being bitten or arriving with your pants torn. In the middle of the climb leading up to the Reserve there are a couple of dogs that have the reputation of being grumpier that “Grumpy Cat”. Stay clear of these guys! (If you don’t know Grumpy Cat – Google before deciding to walk or bike!!
»»If
you’re curious about the reforestation efforts of Conaf in Aysén, visit the Experimental Nursery at the Reserve where they are studying how best to reforest with native trees in these southern extremes. It’s a good place to learn about Conaf ’s management efforts in the area, native coigüe evergreen forests and deciduous trees, like lenga and ñirre, which fill Patagonia with shades of yellow, orange and red in autumn.
OVERVIEW
»»Activity Type: A visit to the Coyhaique National Reserve
»»Where to Start: Plaza of Arms, Coyhaique.
»»Place
of term: Laguna Verde in the Coyhaique Reservation.
»»Travel Distance: 4 - 12 km, depending on your trail selection.
»»Activity Duration: 3 hours – 3 days,
depending on your preferences of activities.
»»Seasonality:
Year round, in winter, the Reserve is an excellent place for snowshoeing.
»»Special Considerations: It is advisable
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•
•
»»Reservations:
The Reserve is open from Monday to Sunday from 8:30 to 17:30 hrs. In the summer season, the Reserve stays open until 19:30. Entrance fees are as follows: adults - $1000, children - $500, foreign visi-
•
Cristian Solis, Expediciones GeoSur, Simón Bolívar 521; (067) 2221990 - (09) 92648671; www. geosurexpediciones.com; cristian@geosurexpediciones.com Hugo Castañeda, Alma Patagónica Expediciones - Ignacio Serrano 621; (09) 76183588; contacto@ almapatagonica.cl; www.almapatagonica.cl Manuel Medina, Aventura Tehuelche, Pimpinela 723; (09) 84118736; aventuratehuelche@gmail.com; www.aventuratehuelche.cl Cristhopher Piñeira, Ecotravel Patagonia; (09) 56679288; contacto@ecotravelpatagonia.com; www.ecotravelpatagonia.com
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to bring trekking poles, hiking boots, water, snacks, layered clothing, a raincoat, a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen, especially if you plan to hike the more difficult trails. Don’t forget your camera. Dogs are not allowed in Chile’s National Reserves or Parks.
tors - $3000. Camping is $5000, use of the picnic quinchos is $4000 and rental of the large quincho of $25,000 for groups of 8 - 20 persons. There are several regional guides who offer trekking in the Coyhaique National Reserve. It is important to choose a guide with experience working in the reserve, good equipment, and knowledge of rescue and first aid. Some options include:
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ENJOY THESE CRAFT BEERS PREPARED WITH THE PUREST WATERS OF CHILE
Imagine a tasty artisan brew featuring the pristine waters of the mountain streams flowing from the glaciers of Patagonia. Actually, there’s no need to imagine because each day the selection of small batch brews crafted in Aysén GROWS, and the water makes all the difference! Consider this your official invitation to explore Aysen’s Craft Beer Trail, flowing through the restaurants, bars, breweries and markets. You need only four ingredients to brew a good beer: malted barley, hops, yeast and water. It seems a modest list, but there are infinite variations in the origin, form and treatment of these simple raw materials, as well as the brewing processes. The combinations produce endless versions of the tasty beverage known as “beer” and in each one you can savor the essence of the main ingredient, water. Beer consists of a 90% water, therefore, the characteristics and composition of this primary ingredient play a fundamental role in the quality of the final product. Beer brewing requires potable, chlorine free water as its starting point. And this is where things start to get interesting; there are lots of different sources of water, for example, glacier waters, thermal mineral waters, water from mountain streams, rain water, lake water and of course, city tap water. Each one of these sources of water contains different types and amounts of salts and minerals that affect the pH, color and flavor of the beer.
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The region of Aysén is the largest freshwater reservoir of Chile and also one of the cleanest. In fact, it is still possible to drink water directly from many of the region’s tributaries. A growing number of local breweries are celebrating this unique aspect of Aysen’s heritage by utilizing local waters from the glaciers, streams and rains of their local sector to make their unique brews. These waters are characterized for having a soft character and low levels of minerals, a neutral pH and are low in nitrates. Thanks to the amazing waters of Aysén and the creativity of entrepreneurs, you can find a wide range of exquisite handcrafted
ales flowing through the restaurants, bars, breweries and markets of the region. Aysen’s Craft Beer Trail continues to grow but here’s a partial list to get you started. KAWIÑ ARTISAN BEER – LA JUNTA: Available in the Hotel Espacio y Tiempo, every day of the year. Contact: (09) 76418823; donald.manque@gmail.com; Facebook: Cervecería Artesanal Kawiñ - La Junta. These golden ales and porters are brewed in La Junta using the pristine high-mountain waters of the thawing of the Lago Rosselot National Reserve. In the Mapuche indigenous language, Mapudungun, the word Kawiñ means “a meeting or social celebration”. The word is used in connection with the action of celebrating in nature, and respecting nature’s codes. Donald Manquenahuel, the owner and brewer, shares the goal of respecting
nature’s codes by being a responsible, environment-friendly business and using Chilean malts and no additives or preservatives. HOPPERDEITZEL BEERS - PUYUHUAPI: 22km north of Puyuhuapi, along the Carretera Austral. Contact: (09) 98183839; www. puyuhuapi.com; Facebook: Cerveza Hopperdietzel. The handcrafted beers of Hopperdietzel were inspired by the heritage of Puyuhuapi, its founders and the brave pioneers who settled this sector. Their three varieties, Goldene Jahre Ale, Roter Teppich Ale and Schwarz Back Ale, are all brewed using the pure waters of the spring thaw captured in the streams of the Valley of the Cesares in the midst of the Patagonia temperate rain forests.
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Campo d´Hielo Beers are offered in three varieties: Glaciar, Vertiente and Río Baker. All three are Pilsner; however, each is produced from a different source of water, producing subtle but marked differences in flavor. The Glaciar variety is brewed using glacial waters from the Exploradores Glacier. The Vertiente variety is produced with waters from the springs of the El Claro Sector of Coyhaique. The Río Baker variety is brewed with the waters of the Baker River, the most powerful river in Chile. These waters add a special sense of power, force and rebellion to
FINISTERRA BEERS - PUERTO CISNES: José María Caro 297; Open every day. Contact: (067) 2346407 - (09) 88198330; contacto@cervezafinisterra.cl; www.cervezafinisterra.cl. With seven varieties (Pale, Golden, Dark, and Pale Ales flavored with Calafate berries, Cauchao berries, Honey and Chili peppers), Finisterra Brewery is one of the older craft beers in the region and stands out for its use of spring melt waters from the Queulat Range. The Saavedra Berndt family owns and operates the company, offering a 100% organic product brewed using German traditions. They offer guided tours of the brewery with the option to “carry out” and they distribute to local restaurants and shops. BRAVO BEERS - PUERTO AYSÉN: Facebook: CERVEZA BRAVO.
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Bravo beers are brewed with the waters from the waterfalls of Puerto Chacabuco and manufactured in Puerto Aysén. Victor Hernandez, owner of the microbrewery Bravo, explains that “in Aysén, the water is ideal for lagers because it does not contain minerals that affect their flavor”. His most popular varieties are the Dark Lager taste with coffee and chocolate notes that perfectly complement the flavors of a lamb asado al palo. The Amber Lager is also delicious, with a bitter caramel flavor and a high alcohol content. CAMPO D’HIELO BEER - COYHAIQUE: Parcela 43, Sector El Claro; Hours: Call for appointment. Contact: (09) 81594206 78552514; cervezacampodhielo@gmail. com; www.campodhielo.cl.
the flavor of the brew. D’OLBEK BEER - COYHAIQUE: Baquedano 1899; Open every day. Contact: (067) 2232947; beacha@dolbek.cl; www. dolbek.cl. D’Olbek is the most popular beer brewed in Aysén, created by the family Smet d’Olbecke, which emigrated to Chilean Patagonia from Belgium in 1948. The family decided to develop a beer that represented the culture and traditions of their country of origin, taking advantage of the quality and abundance of Patagonia’s waters. You can enjoy their excellent beer in many of the restaurants and pubs of the region as well as in their new tavern on the same grounds as the brewery. PIONEERS BEER – COYHAIQUE: Independence 871; Call for an appointment. Contact: (09) 85296175; Facebook: Cerveza Pioneros. The creator of this beer was inspired by the pioneers, the first explorers to arrive in Patagonia, and also the brave men who
Contact: cerveceriacaiquen@gmail.com; Facebook: Cerveza Artesanal Caiquén. Caiquén is an artisan beer with character, strong hops and a robust body, born in the heart of the Carretera Austral, at the base of the Cerro Castillo Glacier and the Ibáñez River. Its inspiration comes from the noble spirit of the Caiquén Wild Goose that inhabits Patagonia, the unique and harsh geography that surrounds the Ibáñez Valley, and the strong, self-sufficient people of Villa Cerro Castillo. The result is a unique and authentic beer.
took charge of opening the first routes. The founder of this brand, Jourdan Cabezas, is also a pioneer, in the art of developing beers. He offers three tasty varieties, Pale Ale, Red Ale and Dark Ale. TROPERA BEER - COYHAIQUE: Paseo Horn 47; Call for Restaurant Hours. Contact: (067) 2210721; Facebook: Mamma Gaucha Coyhaique. Produced by the owners of the Mamma Gaucha restaurant in Coyhaique, varieties include Porter, IPA, and Wheat, among others. One of the favorites is the India Pale Ale, “that is bitter so it harmonizes with the idiosyncrasies of a region that also prefers to drink its yerba mate bitter,” says Frank Valdes, owner of the brand. In addition to its cultural fit, the Mama Gaucha IPA is a very good choice for pairing with pastas, pizzas and grilled lamb. HANDCRAFTED CAIQUÉN BEER - VILLA CERRO CASTILLO:
DALLMAN BEER - PUERTO INGENIERO IBÁÑEZ: The El Maitenal Farm, La Balsa Sector, Route to the Levicán Peninsula; Y can visit the farm year round; Contact: (09) 83892832; lijiger@hotmail.com. Dallman is a traditional German beer, brewed using the original recipe of the grandparents of the owner, Gerald Dallman. His grandfather immigrated to Patagonia along with his wife, Lilian Henriquez, a Chilean by birth. The beer is 100% craft brewed and can be found only at their farm, El Maitenal, where it is the perfect thirst-quencher after a great day of rock climbing, or as an accompaniment for an asado al palo, prepared by Gerard, who is not only the master brewer but also, the grill master.
OVERVIEW
»»Activity
Type: Gastronomy. Craft beer tasting.
»»Start: Regional restaurants, stores, the Region.
»»Duration: Depends on your thirst. »»Seasonality: Year round. »»Special Considerations: Drink with
moderation and if you drink, don’t drive.
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breweries and bars.
»»End: Enjoying the last drop. »»Distance: The length and width of
»»Reservations: Not necessary.
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INDULGE IN THE GRAND EMPANADA TOUR
Are you one of the many people who learn about local culture using your taste buds? If so, give this gastronomic experience a try. It’s a fun and delicious way to try out a Chilean tradition that’s made even more delicious by the quality of Aysen’s local ingredients. Revealing the secrets of an Undiscovered Patagonia includes telling you about our typical dishes. Empanadas are a mainstay in Chilean cuisine; our version of fast food. Baked or fried, they are the perfect self-contained snack; great to purchase or prepare ahead and gobble up during a break from work in the fields, or in your case, at a picnic spot alongside one of our many trails. Almost all cultures have some version of empanadas; which, in their essence, are hand-held bread pies stuffed with an infinite variety of fillings. In actuality, this precursor to Kellogg’s “pop-tart” dates back to ancient times. Examples from other parts of the world include Italian calzones, Polish-Russian pierogis, English turnovers, Cornish pasties, Middle-Eastern/Indian sanbusaq, aka, samosa, Italian-American strombolis, Louisiana Natchitoches, (deep south U.S.A.), and countless variations of Tamales tracing back to the Indigenous cultures of the Americas. Our own Patagonian empanadas are believed to have originated in Spain, probably migrating to South America with the first European settlers.
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The name derives from the Spanish word, emanar, which means, to coat with bread. The traditional Patagonian filling contains ground beef, onions, raisins, hard-boiled eggs, cumin, and a little aji sauce or cheese. But within the cultural areas of Aysén, you can find ALL KINDS of empanada fillings, including luche, merluza, congrio and shellfish in the Fjords & Channels; sautéed apples with a pastry-like dough in Palena – Queulat and other areas that have been influenced by German immigrants; ham and cheese, chard and mushroom, and chicken and mushroom, in Aysén – Simpson. If you are lucky, you may even find a cherry empanada in the Chile Chico sector of Chelenko or a roasted lamb version somewhere south of Cochrane, in Baker – O’Higgins.
We suggest a Grand Tour de Empanadas, in which you visit the restaurants and pubs of town in search for your favorite versions! Here’s a list of Empanada sources in Coyhaique that can get you started, but you’ll find empanadas practically everywhere you go so, make this an ongoing quest! Buen provecho. PANADERÍA MYB 12 de October #27; Hours: Monday to Saturday from 7:30 to 22:00. Sunday from 9:00 to 22:00; Contact: (067) 2232121. Empanadas are the star attraction in this traditional bakery that offers a wide selection of varieties like assorted shellfish, shrimp and cheese, squid, and chicken, among others. They also offer chaparritas (similar to an empanada but stuffed with hot dogs and cheese), great breads and tortas fritas, and a
variety of pies, cakes and cookies. PANADERÍA Y PASTELERÍA STEIBLER Calle Dussen, #289; Hours: Monday to Saturday from 9:00 to 13:00 hrs and from 15:30 to 18:00 hrs. (067) 2213887. Located on Dussen in front of the Pedro Quintana Mansilla School, this tiny bakery will surprise you with their big selection of delicious empanadas, breads and sweets. Try their traditional baked beef empanadas as well as some alfajores and cookies! TODO EMPANADAS Lillo 366, interior; Hours: Tuesday to Saturday from 12:00 to 15:30 hrs and 18:30 to 24:00 hrs. (067) 2210418; Facebook: Todo Empanadas Delivery.
PASTELERÍA ALMALUK Avenida Ogana #1135; Hours: Monday to Saturday; (09) 98750399. This is a great spot to pick up some empanadas as you head out of town toward the south. It’s located on Ogana, just beside the Copec Gas Station and has a great variety of
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Here, the name of the game is “variety” with more than 40 types of empanadas, several based on unique combinations of regional products, like the “criolla”, filled with lamb, and other versions filled with clams and oysters. Here, you can also test your own culinary creativity by choosing your own combination of ingredients!
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OVERVIEW »»Activity
Type: Gastronomic quest to encounter the best empanadas!
»»Start: Coyhaique. »»End: At a table or a picnic. »»Distance: No more than 2
km, if you try an empanada in each of these great spots.
»»Duration: baked and fried empanadas, breads (including whole grain), chaparritas, and delicious sweets like marraquetas and alfajores!
»»Seasonality: Year Round. »»Considerations: Bring an
PALESTINA SÁNDWICH
»»Reservations:
Avenida Ogana #963; Hours: Monday to Saturday from 9:00 to 21:00 and Sundays from 11:00 to 16:00 hrs. This local favorite is perfectly situated in the south entrance/exit of Coyhaique and offers a good variety of empanadas, including beef, chicken, shrimp and apple. You can also find great sandwiches, papas rellenos and various specialties with a Chilote influence, like chapaleles and milcao. SUPERMERCADO EL ARRIERO Avenida Ogana 825, in front of Sodimac; (067) 2237947.
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Varies, depending on your tastes and hunger level.
Locals consider this small market a mandatory stop on their way out of Coyhaique. Here, you’ll find practically everything you could need; delicious empanadas, chaparritas and breads, plus fresh regional meats and cheeses, artisan beers, a good variety of yerba mate and lots of other “must haves” for the road. CASINO DE BOMBEROS General Parra 365; Hours: Monday to Saturday; (067) 2231437. In addition to being a famous picada, the Casino de Bomberos is famous for their traditional, oven-baked, beef empanadas. They’re baked fresh daily but, here’s a tip: once they are gone, you’ll have to wait until the following day! There is always a line waiting to carry-out a dozen of these delicious empanadas so, if you want to try them, get there early.
appetite and don’t forget your camera! Not necessary.
PREPARE YOUR OWN EMPANADAS WITH AYSÉN STYLE
What better way to learn about Patagonia and its culture than tasting and preparing part of its traditional gastronomy. Here we teach you everything you need to know to impress even the most experienced empanada chefs with this recipe for your choice of beef, ham and cheese, or apple cinnamon fillings. Empanadas are fun and easy to make. They are a typical dish eaten throughout Chile, especially during the annual Independence Day Celebrations, but in the farms and cities of Aysén they are also part of daily lives. Empanadas are prepared frequently in almost all of Aysén, and with lots of different fillings and versions. The most traditional versions are filled with a “pino”, made with beef, onions, raisins, and hard boiled eggs. Other versions include cheese, seafood and interesting mixes of ingredients like chicken and mushroom. They can be baked or fried, according to your preference. There are also dessert versions that borrow elements of German settlers’ gastronomy and include ingredients like apples, pears and nuts. In this short cooking course we’ll teach you how to prepare three types of fillings: pino, ham and cheese, and apple cinnamon. So grab your chef apron and let’s get cooking!
Step 1: Gather the ingredients for the dough (15 medium or 25 hors d’oeuvre size empanadas) 2 cups of flour 1/2 teaspoon of salt 3/4 cup of chilled butter, cut into small cubes 1 egg 4 to 5 tablespoons of water
• • Step 2: Choose your filling and gather the needed ingredients EMPANADAS FILLED WITH PINO (TRADITIONAL BEEF FILLING)
• • •
1/2 kilo lean ground beef 2 chopped onions 1/2 cup of vegetable oil
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• • •
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•
2 teaspoons Pimenton Rojo (Sweet paprika) • 1 teaspoon Aji Chileno • 1 teaspoon ground cumin • 1 Tablespoon of White Vinegar • Salt to taste • 1/2 cup of raisins, re-hydrated in water • 1/2 cup of pitted sliced black olives • 3 Hard-boiled eggs; peeled and chopped HAM AND CHEESE EMPANADAS
•
1/2 Kilo of semi hard cheese (in Aysén you’ll find cheeses like gouda or chanco) • 1 or 2 packages of sliced ham (in Aysén, ham is sold in small packages of 10 – 12 slices) APPLE CINNAMON DESSERT EMPANADAS
• • • • • •
1/4 cup (55g) of butter 4 to 5 firm green apples, peeled, cored and diced finely (cubes of approximately 1 cm in size) 3/4 cup (170 g) of granulated sugar 1 – 2 teaspoons of cinnamon 2 teaspoons of cornstarch 2 tablespoons of water
• •
Pinch of salt 3 teaspoon of dulce de leche or manjar (optional) 1 egg
• Step 3: Prepare the Crust
Mix the flour and salt thoroughly and then add the egg, the cold butter, cut into small pieces, and the water. Mix until a clumpy dough forms. You may need to add a few more tablespoons of water, depending on the consistency of the dough. Knead the dough well, (5 – 8 minutes), on a floured surface. Once the dough is well kneaded, form it into a ball and chill in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes.
Step 4: Prepare your Filling Traditional beef filling (Pino): Sauté the onions in the vegetable oil until they are transparent. Add the ground beef, 2 teaspoons pimenton rojo (sweet paprika), aji chileno, ground cumin, and white vinegar. Cook for approximately 20 minutes until the beef is browned and the flavors have had time to blend together. Salt to taste. Remove from heat and allow to cool. (Patagonians swear that you should make this filling at least one day in advance and store it in the refrigerator to allow the flavors to properly blend). Prepare the other ingredients (raisins, olives and hard-boiled eggs) and set aside until assembly time. Ham and cheese filling (or cheese only): Cube cheese in squares of approximately 11/2 – 2 oz each. If you are using ham, chop and reserve in a small bowl.
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Sweet cinnamon apple filling: Combine the diced apples, butter, sugar, salt, and cinnamon in a saucepan. Cook the mixture over medium heat until the apples are beginning to become tender. In a small bowl, mix the water and corn starch until smooth. Add the cornstarch mixture to the apples and cook, stirring, until the mixture starts to thicken. Remove from the heat and if desired, stir in 3 tablespoons of dulce de leche or manjar. Chill the filling mixture for at least an hour, stirring occasionally.
Step 5: Assemble the Empanadas Roll out the dough into a thin sheet, about 2 mm in thickness, and cut out round disc shapes (You can use a small bread plate as a
pattern and cut around the outer rim). Wet the edge of a dough circle slightly with water, all around the perimeter. Traditional beef filling (Pino): Place one heaping tablespoon of filling in the middle of the dough and disperse 1/2 teaspoon of the olives, 3-4 raisins, and 1/2 teaspoon of the chopped hard-boiled eggs over the top. Ham and cheese filling (or cheese only): Place one cube of cheese and 1/2 teaspoon of chopped ham (optional) in the middle of the dough. Sweet cinnamon apple filling: Place one heaping tablespoon of filling in the middle of the dough. All Versions: Fold the circle in half, enclosing the filling, and pinch the edges together firmly to seal, flattening and extending them slightly as you pinch them. Fold and crimp the flattened edge over itself decoratively. Repeat with remaining empanadas.
Step 6: Cook the Empanadas
»»Activity Type: Gastronomy. Recipe
for making your own empanadas in Aysén style.
»»Start: You can find the needed in-
gredients in almost any market in Aysén, both in the cities and rural areas.
»»End: Watching the happy expres-
sions on the faces of your friends, family and of course, yourself. This recipe is sure to please!
»»Duration:
Approximately 3 - 4 hours, plus time for the pino to chill.
»»Seasonality: Year round. »»Special Considerations:
Feel free to invent your own fillings for your empanada with the ingredients and combinations of your choice!
»»Reservations:
No reservations needed. In Coyhaique, you can find fresh regional meats at the following markets (amongst others): Carnicería Ganaderos, Avenida Ogana #1035; Carnes Fuenzalida, Avenida Francisco Bilbao #1546; Supermercado El Arriero, Avenida Ogana #825, in front of Sodimac.
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For all three versions, there are two options for cooking. First, you can bake your empanadas on a baking sheet in a preheated 180˚C oven, for 20-30 minutes, until browned. If you choose to bake, use a fork to poke a few holes in the top of each empanada, for steam to escape, and brush with whipped egg yolk before baking. Special note: Fruit empanadas are famous for leaking in the oven. It helps to chill the formed empanadas overnight before baking. Alternatively, you can deep-fry your empanadas in hot vegetable oil for 5 – 7 minutes, until golden brown. Allow to cool a bit before eating! Buen provecho.
OVERVIEW
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UNLEASH YOUR CREATIVITY AT MI TALLER CHE, IN VILLA ORTEGA
There is a growing local permaculture movement afoot in the tiny town of Villa Ortega, an hour outside of Coyhaique. If you’d like to know more about their sustainable development efforts, visit Mi Taller Che, a local artisan workshop, on a Thursday afternoon during your trip. You’ll be able to spend a few hours with the artists of the village, visit local forests to collect the natural materials used in their special artistry and then join them in making your own, unique souvenir. The forests of Patagonia could well be the backdrop for an adventure or mystery movie, with their nearly impenetrable forests, full of streams and wildlife, and the almost constant wind that rustles the branches in a constant swaying dance. To make things even a bit more magical, many of the forests are streaming with hanging lichen, Usnea barbata, popularly known as “old man’s beard”. This light colored lichen is an indicator plant for air purity; thus, the further away you go from civilization, the more abundant and dense grow the “beards” hanging from the trees.
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In the forests of Villa Ortega, just one hour from Coyhaique, the old man’s beard grows in such abundance that it inspired a group of ingenious artisans to incorporate it as a raw material in their unique artistry; the creation of unique miniature gauchos and gauchas, scarecrows, witches, angels, birds and other tiny figurines that later grace the houses of visitors from all over the world. Their project started with a small group of local women who were looking for a hobby that would bring them closer, connect them with their natural environment, and provide them with an additional source of family income. The result has been the creation of Mi Taller Che, a social group and artisan workshop that has become well known throughout the region and the inspiration for a growing permaculture movement throughout the community. Their workshop is located in one corner of the Plaza in Villa Ortega, next to a small community museum where you will find old
TRAVELERS’ TIPS Be sure to check out the community projects at the local school (the mosaic walls and the unique tree-house). These projects have all been developed by the community in minga fashion and have been an important factor for keeping this rural school open. Many rural schools have closed during the past decade, creating stress for rural families that have to find housing for their children in Coyhaique, but in Villa Ortega, children have been able to stay within their community and their homes for their primary school years, a real plus for the families of this tiny community! farming tools, historic documents, coins and photographs and other artifacts of the pioneer era. You can visit the workshop and purchase a souvenir; however, we recommend that you opt to spend an afternoon with the women and men of the Taller so that you can participate in the entire process, an experience that the artisans are very willing to share each Thursday. Members meet in the workshop on every Thursday afternoon to work, share knowl-
edge and have a good time, and they are more than happy to welcome travelers who want to learn about the area and their art and buy their crafts. You can even accompany them to the forest to collect the old man’s beard and grasses used in their art and then work with them to learn the techniques for making your own special souvenir. Artisans in the workshop also work with raw felt to make figurines, clothing and jewelry. The non-woven wool comes from local sheep and is often stained using natural products, like scotch-broom and yerba mate, which provide green tones, and onions or calafate branches for the yellows. Crafts are only one of the ways in which Villa Ortegans are defining a sustainable future for their tiny community. For several years now, community members have been developing a growing number of projects and initiatives
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related with permaculture and fair trade. As you walk around town, you’ll likely notice a unique house built of mud and recycled materials, surrounded by gardens and edible landscapes. Don’t hesitate to visit the owners of this house, Jorge Águila and Marcela Agüero. Marcela is the president of Mi Taller Che and Jorge is an artist who works with recycled woods to build sculptures and drums. They will be glad to show you the techniques for water and energy savings that they have implemented in their home and tell you
about the minga-style (volunteers working together), approach to community revitalization and development taking place in their community. You can see examples of this growing movement in the mosaic murals and interesting tree-house at the local school; all developed with community volunteers. You can also speak with them about volunteer possibilities that would provide the opportunity to stay a bit longer and learn about permaculture construction, philosophies and techniques.
OVERVIEW
»»Type of activity: Visit to Villa Ortega
and Mi Taller Che to learn and create your own unique souvenir!
»»Start:
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Coyhaique. From Coyhaique, take the road to Puerto Aysén and at the junction for Villa Ortega veer to the right, following the original route of the Carretera Austral. The road is well marked and the route is full of beautiful scenery.
»»End: Coyhaique. »»Duration: 5 - 6 hours or more. »»Distance: Approx. 65 Miles, round trip
»»Seasonality: Year round. »»Special Considerations:
If you plan on staying in Villa Ortega overnight, plan on bringing your tent and kitchen equipment because there are no formal tourist accommodations in town.
There is a small market where you can buy food and basic supplies.
»»Reservations: MI Taller Che is locat-
ed next to the Museum of Villa Ortega, on the corner of the square. Visitors are welcome each Thursday, without reservations, between 15:00 and 18:00 hrs. During these hours, the artisans always gather to work and socialize. To visit them at other times, you should coordinate your plans in advance. There is no telephone service in Villa Ortega; therefore, you can communicate with Jorge Águila via Facebook: Jorge Alexis Aguila Calderon; email: otropasomas@yahoo.com, or phone: (09) 84972773. If you don’t receive an answer when you call, leave a message with the details of your request and your contact information.
WAKE UP WITH THE ANDEAN CONDOR IN COYHAIQUE ALTO
The Andean condor is the national symbol of Bolivia, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru, and represents power, strength and freedom for the people of Patagonia. In Aysén it’s still a daily event to stop, look up at the sky and marvel at these giants circling in the jet-stream high above without any visible effort. Seeing them up close is a privilege extended to only a few, but if you’re willing to get up early, you’re likely to be rewarded in Aysén. For “elal”, one of the heroes of the Tehuelches, renowned for his skills in hunting and protection, the condor was the Lord of the Andes. With its aerial skill and range, it dominated the entire cordillera and the shadow of its huge wings could freeze the driving Patagonian rains and convert them into snow. So begins one of the most famous legends of these early inhabitants of Aysén, who like most indigenous Andean peoples, worshiped the giant Andean condor, earth’s largest terrestrial habitat flight bird. For the Incas the condor was a messenger of the Gods that could fly all the way to the upper level of the religious world to deliver their prayers. For the Mapuches, only the most noble and brave souls were reincarnated as condors.
As you head east toward Coyhaique Alto, the landscape changes dramatically, from deciduous forests to the vast steppe of dominated by coiron grasses; here you’ll see
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During your time in the Aysén Region, you will be able to observe these magnificent birds in several sectors and even have the unique opportunity to observe them from only a couple of meters away, at the Punta del Monte Estancia located in Coyhaique Alto, approximately one hour from the regional capital. If you choose to take advantage of this opportunity, between 5:00 - 5:30 in the morning (yes, you read it right) Alejandro Galilea, a rancher and amateur ornithologist, will be waiting for you at your hotel in Coyhaique to take you to the pampa. We assure you that seeing these magnificent birds at such close range is absolutely worth the sacrifice of an early morning rising!
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sheep by the thousands! Punta del Monte is one of the larger Estancias of the sector and in addition to high-end wool production; the Galilea family offers horseback riding, fly fishing, condor and migratory bird watching and estancia stays. Yes, you can arrange to stay at the estancia a few days and enjoy their unique style of hospitality and the chance to spend a few days in the rhythm of the gauchos. PLUS, you can sleep in a bit and still be on time for your appointment with the condors! You’ll drive across the pampa along a winding farm road until you reach a flat area about 200 meters from the edge of a small canyon. The landscape is stunning, with small hills jetting up from the pampa, rock formations, and the Ñirehuao River ribboning through the bottom of the gorge, perfectly lit by the golden light of the dawn. Grab your camera and head over to the edge of the gorge, but DON’T get too close to the edge and be careful with the wind! Here the instructions are clear: bundle up, don’t get too close to the edge, be careful with the wind and make gentle movements, because you will be entering the “bedroom” of the majestic Andean condor and the idea is to arrive and install yourself in a strategic spot so you can observe them before they arouse and embark on their early morning flights.
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If you have timed things right, you will witness the amazing daily morning ritual of these massive birds in which, while waiting for the first warm currents of morning air that they need in order to lift their heavy bodies into the skies, they begin to stretch their wings again and again as if they were performing an avian form of yoga. The condor’s outstretched wings measure around 3 meters, and its total weight is around 12 – 15 kilos, so it must take advantage of the rising air currents that appear with the sun. You’ll notice it plucking its down and tossing it into the air, presumably testing the currents in
anticipation of the conditions it seeks. Take advantage of this wait to observe the details of these animals; for example, the adult male has gold eyes, a white crest, and a collar at the base of his neck; the female’s markings are similar but their eyes are red, and the juveniles are brown in color completely brown.
NOTE The giant of the Andean skies The Andean condor is the largest flight bird on land (the snowy or whitewinged albatross, a seabird, is larger). The condor reaches up to 1.2 meters in height, its wingspan can reach up to 3 meters and its weight is between 12 -15 kilos. It is not easy to fly with such bulk! That is why condors prefer to roost on large cliffs and take advantage of the thermals for take-offs and landings. Condors live between 50 and 70 years and mature between 6 and 8 years. During this period, they mate for the rest of their life. Each pair has a chick approximately every two years. The female lays her egg in the nest built into a protected area of a cliff and then both parents share the task of incubation. The newborn depends on their parents for two years before it can survive on their own. Condors are carnivores but they are not predators; their talons are not developed for hunting thus they depend on dead animals for their food source. They are considered a threatened species due to habitat degradation and illegal hunting, amongst other pressures.
TRAVELERS’ TIPS »»If OVERVIEW
»»Activity Type: Condor observation »»Start: Coyhaique »»End: Coyhaique »»Distance: Approx. 43 Km to the Punta del Monte Estancia and another 15 km to the gorge.
»»Duration: 4 - 6 hours approximately.
»»Seasonality: Year round, always depending on climatic conditions and behavior of the condor.
»»Special Considerations: Remember
that condors are wild animals and thus, their behavior cannot be controlled. Sometimes, you could go the condoreras and not encounter the condors. Alejandro does everything in his power to find them, but it is not 100% guaranteed that you will achieve the sighting that you expect.
»»Reservations:
In due time the special moment will arrive and the first condors will launch into the air to confirm that the currents have arrived. After a few fluttering circles, the condors confirm their absolute dominance of the wind and air currents with a fantastic aerial show up and down the valley’s corridor. And if you are used to looking high up into the skies to follow the condor’s flight, adjust your
»»Parque Patagonia, owned and man-
aged by the non-profit organization, Conservación Patagónica (www. conservacionpatagonica.org), is an amazing natural grassland habitat where you can immerse yourself in nature and another great place to observe Andean condors and a host of other native wildlife.
»»If
you find a wounded condor or other wild animal, don’t approach the animal. Contacts the regional offices of the Agriculture and Livestock Service (SAG), for assistance and rescue. Their offices are located in Avenida Ogana #1060, Coyhaique. Phone: (067) 263260 - 263200; contacto.aysen@sag. gob.cl, and open Mondays through Thursdays from 08:30 to 13:00 and Friday from 14:30 to 16:30. If you need help outside of their working hours, please contact the closest post for the police (Carabineros de Chile) and they will assist.
thinking; here the condors are practically at eye level and you will even be able to watch them as they fly through the gorge a few meters below your perch. Gradually more and more will arrive in the valley, which is a condor gathering place, referred to as a “conderera”, until you can barely count them. It is truly an experience not to be missed!
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Please contact Alejandro Galilea in his Coyhaique office to arrange your excursion and payment, Bilbao #398. Contact: (067) 2231601; condores@puntadelmonte.cl; www.puntadelmonte.cl.
the condors have awoken your passion for bird watching, make a stop at the Dos Lagunas Natural Monument on your way back to Coyhaique, where you can observe the black woodpecker, pitío, cachaña, zorzal patagónico, tagua and the black-necked swan.
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EXPLORE THE ARTS IN COYHAIQUE, INSPIRED BY THE BEAUTY OF PATAGONIA
If you are a fan of music, painting, literature, theater, and the rest of the arts, Coyhaique is sure to capture your curiosity and your heart! Although Coyhaique is one of Chile’s youngest regional capitals and, in many ways, more of a frontier town than a 21st century metropolis, the area’s incredible natural beauty and rich cultural traditions have inspired more than a fair share of contributions to the arts. Coyhaique is developing the reputation of being a hub for creativity, “the place to be”, especially when it comes to music, painting, literature and theatre. For instance, independent film producers from all of Chile come to compete in the annual Patagonia Film Festival and show off their awards with great pride. In addition, the actors who come to participate in the Patagonia Live Theater Festival leave as ambassadors for the event, speaking of its worth from the Atacama to Tierra del Fuego.
Coyhaique has a pretty amazing music scene.
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Various bands, including Los Difuntos Correa and Los Vásquez, began their careers playing in Coyhaique’s pubs and cultural venues, and have moved on to successful national careers. Other nationally known musicians, like Duo Trapananda, Par of chocos, Alonso Núñez, and Richard Sepulveda have opted to remain in Aysén. Thus, you can find Aysén’s music in I Tunes, on YouTube and in the pubs and nightclubs of Coyhaique, including the Historic Café Ricer (Paseo Horn 48), Mamma Gaucha (Paseo Horn 47) and El Bulin´s (Moraleda 579). These places are recognized for their contribution to regional music and are excellent places to visit and enjoy. If rock and roll is your passion in life, you’ll want to coordinate your plans to attend the Rockin’ the Simpson River event that takes place in January of each year on the grounds of the La Posada del Conejo Restaurant, along the shores of the Simpson River (Km 3, Route X-600). The best regional, national, and Argentinean rock bands take part in this great open air rock festival. During the day, head to the Cultural Center Coyhaique (Eusebio Lillo 23), to enjoy
regional art exhibitions. In this same forum you can participate in workshops and classes including dance, pottery, theater and painting. The bulletin board announcing events, activities and workshops is located outside the Cultural Center; stop by and check out the latest and greatest happenings so that you can incorporate some into your visit.
Coyhaique is the muse for a number of great artists. Watercolor artist Renato Tilleria is considered one of the masters of Chile, with his unique style of capturing the colors of the local landscapes of the area, and blending with the local culture. Don Renato is world renowned, has made countless exhibitions nationally, and internationally. His works are in private collections in Chile, Argentina, Australia, Japan, Italy, France and the United States, among others. In Coyhaique, it is possible to see his work in the Cultural Center and other local exhibitions and also you can visit him in his workshop located in the bypass of the city (Route X-7, #123), to gain a personal perspective of this great regional artist (and also to buy an original painting for your own gallery).
Using rawhide as his canvas, Artist Segismundo Sade enchants regional visitors with giant murals that capture local traditions and fauna, using the traditional cultural process of leather etching. You can view his works in highly visible places in the region, like as the airport of Balmaceda and the Cultural Center of Coyhaique. Don Sade is beloved in Coyhaique as one of its most colorful characters; a wealth of knowledge about the Region and a storyteller with a great sense of humor! You can ask for details about his
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Robinson Mora is another of Aysen’s master painters, specializing in oils. He has made Coyhaique his home since 1971; here, he has been able to find the tranquility and inspiration he has needed to paint award winning canvases which have been cataloged within the style of “geometric surrealism”. Mora has participated in numerous collective and individual exhibitions, both in Chile and abroad, and his works are part of the permanent collections of major national museums, including the Museum of Fine Arts in Santiago. You can contact Don Robinson Mora via email: robmoram@gmail.com.
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works and exhibitions at the Cultural Center or in the office of the National Council for Culture and Arts in Aysén (21 de Mayo, #574). The inspirations of Aysén are also capturing contemporary, up and coming artists, like Catalina Correa, a Santiago native, who has made Coyhaique her home base since 2009. Catalina is a remarkable and versatile visual artist, who works with various techniques including pen and ink drawings, multimedia installations and performance works. You can see examples of her work in her Online forum: www.ladistanciaproyectos.cl, or in person, in the Café de Mayo (21 de Mayo #543), or contact her directly for additional information: ktacorream@gmail.com.
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The Artisan Fair across from the Plaza is home to sculptor Oscar Ziehlmann (www. piedraspatagonicas.cl), who works primarily in stone etchings. When you visit the fair, look for his sculpture, “The Tehuelche Mother”, which is permanently displayed in front. This work was commissioned by the city of Coyhaique, and as Oscar explains, represents the love and connectivity between mother and son. Oscar is almost always in his workshop in the fair and welcomes visitors. Here, you can view and discuss his works and if you like, purchase one of his unique stone carvings of landscapes, animals and scenes of rural life.
Patagonia is an inexhaustible source of inspiration for literature. Each year that passes brings valuable additions to its growing collection of regional books, focused on its culture, its landscapes and its stories. We highly recommend a visit to the Regional Library (Lord Cochrane #233), which has a large collection of regional, national and international texts about Patagonia and Aysén, as well as the possibil-
ity to connect to the Internet, participate in writers’ workshops and children’s activities or simply enjoy a good read. If you discover a text that you would like to take home, there are several great bookshops in Coyhaique that specialize in regional texts and authors, including La Librería Librería, (Carlos Condell #228; Facebook: lalibreria.libreria), LeoLibros librería (Horn #53) and Mundilibros (21 de mayo #447).
Live theatre and film are also finding a home within the arts community of Coyhaique. During the summer, two groups of motivated “cultural ambassadors” are celebrating live theatre and film by developing regional festivals that attract national level actors and filmmakers. The Patagonia Film Festival (Facebook: Festival de Cine de la Patagonia), organized by the Patagonia Visual Group, brings films and documentaries to the region, playing an important role for promoting the arts in a corner of the world that does not have the opportunity to enjoy movies on a regular basis (there in not a regularly functioning movie theatre in Aysén). The Patagonia Live Theatre Festival, organized by the Malotun Ortiga Organization, (www. patagoniaenescena.blogspot.com), brings local and national actors together in a weeklong celebration, including workshops, of theater arts that provide locals and visitors with the opportunity to enjoy the best of the national theater, without leaving Coyhaique.
OVERVIEW
»»Activity
Type: Discovering the Arts and Culture of Coyhaique.
»»Start: Coyhaique’s Cultural Center. »»End: Based on your preferences and
•
discoveries.
»»Distance: Everything is in the Coyhai- • que downtown, the majority within a radius of approximately 10 blocks.
»»Duration: A few hours to a lifetime, depending you your level of inspiration.
»»Seasonality: Year round. »»Special Considerations:
We recommend researching a bit in advance of your visit so you will be aware of the exhibitions, festivals and productions that will be in the city during your stay. As well, when you arrive, you can visit the Cultural Center of Coyhaique to find out their scheduled events.
»»Reservations: Most locations do not • • •
Historic Café Ricer - Horn 48; (067)2232920; www.historicoricer.wordpress.com; Facebook: RestaurantHistoricoRicer Mamma Gaucha - Horn 47; (067) 2210721, Facebook: mammagaucha El Bulín’s - Moraleda Street #579, across from the Cultural Center.
• • • • •
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require reservations but you will want to arrange gallery visits with artists, in advance:
•
Facebook: elbulins.coyhaique Rockin’ the Simpson River Event, Restaurante La Posada del Conejo - Km 3, Route X-600 (Road to Teniente Vidal); Contact: (09) 94688129 - 62942846 National Council for Culture and Arts in Aysén - May 21 #574; (067) 2214841; www.cultura.gob.cl/region/aysén; Facebook: Cultura Coyhaique; Hours: Monday to Thursday: 08:30 to 17:30 and Friday: 8:30 to 16:30. Coyhaique Cultural Center - Eusebio Lillo #23; Contact: (067) 2211596; Facebook: Culture Coyhaique Artist Don Renato Tillería; (067) 2233499; (09) 84135908; renatotilleria@gmail.com. Artist Robinson Mora; robmoram@ gmail.com Artist Oscar Ziehlmann; oscarziehlmann@gmail.com; www.piedraspatagonicas.cl Artist Catherine Belt; Contact: www. ladistanciaproyectos.cl; ktacorream@gmail.com Aysén Regional Library - Lord Cochrane #233; (067) 2232433 2240713; bibliocoyhaique@gmail. com; www.biblioredes.cl/coyhaique; Facebook: bibliotecacoyhaique; Office Hours: Monday to Friday 10:00 to 20:00 and Saturday 10:00 to 14:00
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TIME FOR A LITTLE BOHEMIA COYHAIQUINA?
After so much travel and time in nature, a change of pace can be welcome; if you feel the same, head out into the night air and enjoy a bit of music and dance. Although Coyhaique is small (as regional capitals go), it boasts an active nightlife and various spots to unwind. Perhaps the best way to start a night out on the town is to join friends for a great dinner out. A great option is to go to one of Coyhaique’s picadas and enjoy a parillada or one of the other house specials. Various restaurants offer live music including the Historic Café Ricer (Horn #48). This great local spot features an atmosphere dedicated to the best of Patagonian including lots of local books, a second floor “mini museum” where you can find historical photography and artifacts displayed and a fantastic and intimate venue for enjoying local and national bands, like Swencke and Nilo and Toro & Bluesman. The pizzeria Mamma Gaucha (Horn 47), is another local spot to enjoy good music, great food and hand crafted brews.
After dinner, the options are varied… If rock is your passion, head to Barground (Condell, just before Moraleda), a great pub with good music and lots of locals. Moraleda Street is a block further and home to two of the nightlife mainstays: Piel Roja (Moraleda 495), and El Bulin’s (Moraleda 579), Piel Roja has a great pub on the first floor where
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you can relax, enjoy a drink and warm up beside the fire, and a discotheque on the second floor, where you can get your groove on until the wee hours of the morning. A little further along Moraleda, opposite the Cultural Center of Coyhaique, you’ll find El Bulín’s, a great site for salsa and other Latin rhythms, including chamamé, a traditional music for Aysén, and usually offer live music on the weekends. Close by you’ll find Pepe le Pub (General Parra 72), an ideal spot for conversation and fun and a few doors down, Akelarre (General Parra 26), is the place to go to hear the best bands in the region.
If you are interested in a more traditional experience, check out Salón de Baile El Quilantal (Av. Baquedano 791), a giant dance hall where you can experience the music, dance and culture of Aysén every weekend. They have a great house band and a staple crowd of loyal dancers. During the night, you’ll hear a mix of cumbia, chamamé, cueca and lots of other traditional Aysén rhythms. It’s a favorite with coyhaiquinos and visitors that offers a great time for all.
OVERVIEW
»»Activity
nightlife.
Type: Tour of Coyhaique’s
»»Start:
Dinner in one of Coyhaique’s great local restaurants.
•
• »»End: Watching the sunrise? »»Distance: Everything is within walking •
stamina.
•
»»Duration: Depends on your pace and »»Seasonality: Year round. »»Special Considerations:
It’s easy to walk between spots, however there are several taxi dispatches in Coyhaique, including: (067) 242424 2252525.
•
»»Reservations: No reservations need- • ed. Spots include:
•
Piel Roja - Moraleda 495; (067) 2237832; info@pielroja.cl;
•
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distance in Coyhaique’s downtown area, within a radius of approximately 10 blocks.
www.pielroja.cl; Facebook: Piel Roja Pub & Dance El Bulin´s - Moraleda 579; Facebook: El Bulin’s Coyhaique Barground - Condell, just before Moraleda; Contacto: (09) 89024667; Facebook: Barground Patagonian Drinkers Mamma Gaucha - Horn 47; (067) 2210721; Facebook: Mammagaucha Coyhaique Café Histórico Ricer - Horn 48; (067) 2232920; www.historicoricer. wordpress.com; Facebook: RestaurantHistoricoRicer. Salon de Baile El Quilantal - Av. Baquedano 791; (067) 2234394; Facebook: Salón De Eventos “quilantal” En Coyhaique Pub Akelarre - General Parra 26; Facebook: Aquelarre Pub Pepe le Pub - General Parra 72; (067)2246474; Facebook: Pepe Lepub
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PEDALING THROUGH THE SIMPSON VALLEY
The valleys between Coyhaique and the Balmaceda airport contain some of the oldest and largest farms in the region. This 77 km biking route travels the interior of the Simpson Valley, meandering meadows, rivers, lagoons and small villages, where you can relax and share a few mates with pioneers of the area. When you’re looking for a good bicycle dayroute, there are two vital things to consider: that the terrain is apt for biking and that the landscapes are so great you’re not thinking about how tired your legs are. We chose this 77 km route between Coyhaique, the heart of the Simpson Valley and the small town of El Blanco, with these two important factors in mind. The majority of the route is on asphalt and the scenery is top notch; a mix of serene rural landscapes and the mountains of the Cerro Castillo National Reserve accompany you throughout the ride. You’ll cross bridges over several rivers and streams, where you can stop for a picnic, relax and even fish for a while, as well as two small villages where you can buy snacks, visit local museums and get to know some of the pioneers of the area.
Section 1: Coyhaique – entrance of Valley Simpson, Route X-674 (16.2 kilometers)
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The first section of the route consists of a series of hills and straightaways, bordered by the high walls of the MacKay and Divisadero Mountains, as you make your way to the Simpson Valley. Begin your ride at the corner of Simpson Street and Ogana Avenue, leaving Coyhaique in the direction of the Balmaceda Airport. After the first winding hills, you’ll reach a long straightaway. On the right side, between kilometers 5.5 and 6, you will see luxury fishing lodge, Cinco Rios, which offers great amenities and plenty of options if you are looking for an unforgettable fly-fishing experience. Shortly thereafter, you’ll come upon the Foitzick lagoon sector, named in honor of one of the most important settlers of the valley, Don Eduardo Foitzick, who came to the area in 1909. Here, the road makes a few hairpin turns in order to avoid the lagoon and in this sector,
known for its black ice in winter, there have been several accidents that have prompted locals to install different shrines to remember the victims and to ask for protection and good luck. Many ayseninos pay homage to Saint Sebastian, who they believe to be the protector of travelers and they also honor several popular Patagonia saints, including the Difunta Correa, who according to legend, died of thirst wandering the pampas of Argentina, but, miraculously, was able to save the life of her baby by protecting it with her own body. The Difunta Correa is an icon in Patagonia, with many devotees, as you will note each time you pass a small shrine with a collection of plastic bottles in front, left to quench this heroine’s thirst. Another popular saint is Gauchito Gil, also of Argentine origin. According to devotees, Gil saved the life of the dying child of his executioner, saying “As you are about to spill the blood of an innocent man, call upon me to intercede before God and to heal your son”. According to legend, the executioner took heed of Gil’s command and the sick child was immediately healed. Gauchito Gil’s shrine is characteristically a small red house with his picture and red flags. You can view these sanctuaries around the lagoon and in many other sectors in the region.
Section 2: Simpson Valley (Route X-674) – Mate Museum in El Blanco (27.5 kilometers) Turn right when you reach the crossing for Route X-674 and the Simpson Valley (Km 16.2). After pedaling a couple of kilome-
Continue through town and into the valley along Route X-674. Around kilometer 20, you will spot an ancient house that was the first school for the area. Don Hugo Wahl, owner of the site, has an excellent talent for storytelling, especially tales about the sector and how the region has developed and changed over the years. Drinking mate with him is always a great experience. And only 500 m beyond, you’ll cross the bridge over the Simpson River and find great places to rest, picnic or fish. In kilometer 22 you’ll encounter the crossroad, Route X-680 on the left, marked by signs for the regional campus of INIA (Institute for Agricultural Investigation). You’ll turn here and enter the part of the route that travels over gravel, a fitting surface for this stretch that is filled with remnants of the colonization period in the valley. You’ll bass old barns and houses, tiled with handmade wooden shingles, called tejuelas, and lots of traditional wooden fences marking the boundaries of ancient farms and fields. You’ll reach the end of this road around kilometer 34 and reconnect with Route X-674, where you’ll make a left and travel another 9.5 kilometers to the small town of El Blanco. This section borders follows the same course as the Simpson River and takes you through beautiful farm country. In El Blanco, you’ll find a fun little museum dedicated to yerba mate, with lots of historical photos and
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After the lagoon, you’ll wind another 6.5 km through farmlands and an interesting rock formation, known as the “Wall of China”. This formation is very popular with local climbers who have several routes armed along its length.
ters, you will enter the small village of Valle Simpson where you can stop, buy a snack, visit the Museum of the Colonization and the greenhouse of the Señora Blanca Molina, a charming resident of the valley who sells an impressive variety of vegetables, in addition to handmade crafts knitted from sheep and alpaca wool. Her house is located on the right side of the street in the second block before you get to the school. If you have problems finding her, ask any of the town’s residents for guidance.
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artifacts from the colonial era and a few places where you can buy a snack before the trip back to Coyhaique. Be sure not to miss the fun wooden sculptures, like the giant mate, ax, gaucho knife and horse-head, among others. They are a great place to celebrate your ride with a new “selfie” for your Facebook profile.
rejoin the asphalt and start your return route to Coyhaique. You’ll pedal approximately 33.6 Km and along the way there are several options to stop at local farms and buy vegetables , fruit, cheese, and freshly laid eggs. Don’t forget to wear a backpack to load everything you buy; you’ll be glad for the farm fresh dinner after this great day ride.
Section 3. El Blanco – Coyhaique (33.6 kilometers) When you leave El Blanco turn to the left, to
OVERVIEW »»Activity Type: Self-guided bike circuit • through Simpson Valley
»»Start: Intersection of Ogana Avenue and Simpson Street in Coyhaique.
»»End:
Intersection of Ogana Avenue and Simpson Street in Coyhaique.
»»Distance: 77 km. »»Duration: 6 -10 hours. »»Seasonality: Bike in summer 4x4 vehicle all year round.
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• season,
»»Special
Considerations: Bring drinks and snacks and cash for purchases. Dress in layers using bright colors and reflectors and be aware of traffic, especially on the main roads. You need to purchase a fishing license (www. sernapesca.cl) and inform yourself about regulations and how to prevent the spread of Didymo, a highly invasive algae which has contaminated rivers throughout the world, including in Aysén (www.didymo.cl).
»»Reservations:
•
Self-guided activity. In Coyhaique you can rent bicycles in:
Café Histórico Ricer - Horn #48; (067) 2232920; www.historicoricer.wordpress.com; Facebook: RestaurantHistoricoRicer. Purapatagonia Excursiones and Expediciones - General Parra #202; (067) 2246000; info@purapatagonia.cl; www.purapatagonia.cl Other useful information: ·· Museo de la Colonización (Museum of the Colonization - Valle Simpson: Clodomiro Millas s/n, beside the school; Hours: Thursday – Sunday from 10:00 to 13:00 and 15:00 to 18:00; Contact: Irene Jara; (09) 85541848; irenedelvalle@ outlock.com ·· Museo del Mate (Mate Museum) - El Blanco: Carretera Austral s/n; Hours: Thursday – Sunday from 10:00 to 13:00 and 15:00 to 18:00; Contact: Genoveva Pérez; (09) 90778834; samy_1990@live. com
“GAUCHO UP” IN THE TALABARTERÍAS (SADDLERIES) OF THE CAPITAL
It’s a pretty safe bet that as you’ve traveled around the region of Aysén, you’ve run into gauchos; men and women who proudly maintain old-style Patagonia customs, from the way they live and work to the way that they dress. Gaucho traditions came to Aysén with the pioneers and remain alive today, despite the arrival of modern technology and globalization. Learn more about these traditions and do a little “gauchoing up” of your own in the saddleries of Coyhaique.
Traditional gaucho dress includes a boina (beret), a pañuelo (scarf) around his neck and bombachas (a type of pants). The most commonly worn boina in Aysén is black felt and of Spanish origin, although many folks own several others that are crocheted in wool or cotton. Boinas protect their owners from the sun and rain, and unlike the wide brimmed huaso hats that are typically used
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There is no doubt of the influence that Argentina has had on the culture of Chilean Patagonia and for that matter, of the influence that the original gauchos of Uruguay, Brazil and Paraguay have had on Argentina. South American cowboys (gauchos) have a long tradition of migrating to where there is work, and from the mid-1800s to the mid-1900s, there were tons of work in Patagonia with the installation of enormous estancias; first in Argentina, then in the Magellanes Region of Chile and finally, in Aysén. Gauchos made their way down to Patagonia and followed the work in what was, for many decades, a South American version of the U.S. Wild West. Many of their customs and traditions came with them to Patagonia; styles of clothing, music, yerba mate, even slang terms, like “che”. And that is why there are such regional differences between the customs in Patagonia and those in the rest of Chile. Ayseninos are proud of this tradition; thus here, you’ll see that gaucho clothing is almost a regional symbol; used both by ranchers for practical and traditional reasons, and by people in the cities, who don their boinas and bombachas because it is part of what defines their heritage and culture.
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TRAVELERS’ TIPS
by the Chilean huasos (cowboys) in the central region, they aren’t likely to blow away in the harsh Patagonian winds. Many people in Aysén wear their boinas a little to one side. The best pañuelos are made of silk but polyester is also common. They are worn around the neck, often with a decorative clip, called a golilla, used in front. They are used for all kinds of practical applications but mainly, to protect a gaucho’s neck from the wind and sun.
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Drinking wine from a bota requires skills and some practice. First, you need to take it by the top, open the lid of the take it out of the top, open the lid and then grab the bota by the lower part. Then come the more complicated part: bend your arms, tilt the bota so that the mouth is just a few cm from her mouth and then gently squeeze the bottom so that the stream of wine hits your mouth without hitting your shirt, your chin, or your nose! The bota shouldn’t touch your lips because it’s passed around like yerba mate – from one friend to another, so that everyone gets a taste. With more practice, you’ll be able to extend your arms as you drink, so that the stream becomes longer and longer and then bring the bota back in close at the end, all without spilling a drop. conditions.
Bombachas are baggy work pants made of a heavy-duty cloth, with pronounced darts, or pleats, in the front and rear and a small cuff at the bottom that is held snug around the ankle with a button. Old-school gauchos use a special kind of wide cloth or leather belt with their bombachas, called a rastra; some of which are decorated with coins. Gauchos also typically wear a special type of leather boots, which have a short heel and a pointed tip that perfectly fits in the wooden stirrups that they frequently use with their saddles.
In addition to clothing there are a number of other items that are part of the gaucho culture and very handy to have around. For example, the bota de vino, is a great way to make wine portable, and virtually possible to take anywhere! It is made of goat leather; refined on the outside and natural on the inside and usually sewn in a teardrop shape, with a plastic mouth that squirts out a tiny stream of wine. They hold about a liter of wine and are ALWAYS close by during asados and celebrations.
Mantas (blankets) or ponchos are traditional gaucho outerwear. They are hand-woven of raw wool by weavers in the area, normally in natural colors and if dyed, natural dyes are used (onions, yerba mate, calafate, etc.). The same applies to vests, sweaters and socks; however, these items are typically knitted, rather than woven. The most important factor for all of these garments is that even if raw wool gets wet from the rain, it continues to generate heat. Mantas and ponchos are one of the most precious possessions for a gaucho, especially for winter work, and are longer than the huaso mantas used in the central zone of Chile so that they can provide better coverage in the harsh Patagonian
A good knife is one of the gaucho’s prized possessions, definitely his most important tool. There are two common knives used, a facón, which is big and heavy-duty, used for farm work and heavy jobs, and a verijero which is the size of a large steak-knife, no
A kit for drinking yerba mate is another utensil that is always close at hand. First, you need a mate, which is a small gourd or a small cup made from wood, metal or pottery. Many mates are exquisitely detailed and adorned – and every household has at least two or three in regular use. Additionally, you need a straw, called a bombilla, which is made of metal or bamboo and a small teapot or thermos to hold your water.
more than 15 cm, and used like a buck-knife, for a bit of everything, from cutting leather or rope, to skinning a lamb, to cutting a portion of meat at an asado. Verijeros tend to be the more decorative of the two knives and you are likely to find hand-made versions using local woods, bones, precious metals and other materials for their one-of-a-kind handles.
Ready to gaucho up? Coyhaique’s Artisan Fair, across from the
OVERVIEW
»»Activity Type: shopping tour of traditional elements gauchos.
»»Start:
Coyhaique’s Artisan Fair, across from the city’s Plaza of Arms
»»End:
Comercial Temuco, La Casa del Mate.
»»Distance: All of these locals are in »»Duration: Three hours »»Seasonality: Year round. »»Considerations: We recommend
that you spend some time visiting and drinking mate with some of the gauchos of Aysén so that you can learn more about their way of life. The store owners are also a great wealth of knowledge.
»»Reservations: Not required.
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the center city district of Coyhaique, in a radius of approximately eight blocks.
city’s Plaza of Arms (between Paseo Horn and Dussen) and El Rincón de la Artesanía (General Parra 97; (09) 77691968), are great places to go to buy knitted and woven woolen articles, including woolen boinas, vests, socks, mantas and hats, amongst many other treasures. You can continue your search in Fernández Regalos (Francisco Bilbao 280), one of the oldest shops in Coyhaique, specialists in articles more refined, such as an authentic wine boot or a scarf for special occasions. To follow this route you will need to know Talabartería Santa Teresa (Freire 205 D; (09) 93185011), with implements for farm labor, in addition to hats, belts and boots of excellent quality. Finally in the Comercial Temuco, La Casa del Mate (Errázuriz 268; (067) 2214243, Facebook: La Casa Del Mate Coyhaique), in addition to the inevitable mate yerba and bulb, you’ll find literally everything for yourself as a gaucho. Don’t forget to buy Spanish playing cards and ask someone to teach you to play tricks, after that, you’ll feel like a true gaucho.
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VISIT CERRO HUEMULES, HOME OF THE WORLD’S MOST SOUTHERN DEER
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Formerly, the habitat of the huemul extended throughout much of the Southern Cone; north to Mendoza, Argentina, and south, to the Strait of Magellan. Today only a few thousand of these deer remain, most residing in the Patagonian Andes. When the huemul walks through the Andean forests of Patagonia, it does so with unique grace and tranquility. Thanks to its dark brown fur, it can blend in with rocks, soil and shrubs, making those rare instances of observation even more awe inspiring. It is a majestic and noble animal; however, it is also timid and easily stressed. The huemul is not capable of surviving in captivity and the most minimal disturbance to their habitat can inspire the drastic decision to migrate in search of an area where there is still virgin nature. This is why Aysén is home to a large percentage of the world’s remaining huemul population, (if you don’t already suspect, huemul are in serious danger of extinction). Strangely enough, a few kilometers from Coyhaique, the region’s largest city, there is a place where huemul have lived for several decades, seemingly comfortable with their habitat and surroundings, despite the proximity to civilization. The Cerro Huemul Protection Zone of the Simpson River National Reserve was established in 1976 and is the main huemul protection and research area in the Aysén Region. To visit this sanctuary, head out of Coyhaique along Route X-600 towards the Coyhaique Airport (Teniente Vidal Aerodrome) and the Río Claro Valley. A little less than one kilometer after crossing the road for the airport you will turn left onto Route X – 618, immediately after crossing the bridge. Continue along this gravel road for 14 km and you will cross over another bridge and begin to climb up the mountain along a short dirt road, which requires a 4x4 vehicle. (Tip: If you don’t have a 4x4 vehicle, park at the bottom and hike up.) At the top, you will enjoy an amazing panoramic view of the Río Claro Valley. After taking in the view, head over to talk with the rangers, whose mission is to conserve the huemul. They can explain the history and pressures faced by the huemul: wildfires,
ranching, deforestation, roads, domestic and introduced animals, and hunting. They can also help guide you on how to behave if you encounter huemul on the trails, so that ideally, the huemul barely notes your presence, and does not become stressed. According to park ranger Rody Vladimir, “the composition of the forest has changed drastically since the opening of this protection area in 1976. There has been a proliferation of several introduced plants like lupine and scotch broom. As well, aggressive native trees, like ciruelillo, or notro have taken over the area, so much so that it is now the dominant foliage in the landscape”. The rangers, who work in the Reserve on a daily basis, have observed that the concentration of huemules is declining and they hypothesize that the changing composition of the forests no longer meets the needs of a large population of huemules, so many have begun to
migrate further east, in search of the lenga and coigüe forests of the Cerro Castillo National Reserve, and in particular the area of the Chiguay Lagoon. There is still a significant population of huemules in the Cerro Huemul Protection Area, however, research supports the theory that this species requires an extensive habitat where they can move freely in search of the optimal combination of attributes for their welfare.
The Protection Zone has two hiking trails, one is 3.5 km and the other is 14.5 km. You are likely to encounter huemules along both hikes, especially if you go with a ranger, because their acute knowledge helps them to distinguish the huemul from the natural camouflage of the landscape. The short
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OVERVIEW »»Activity Type: Trekking and Huemul Observation.
»»Start: Coyhaique (Trails begin at the Ranger Station, where you will need to register and pay the entrance fees.)
»»End: Coyhaique »»Distance: The Protection
Zone for Cerro Huemul in the Simpson River National Reserve is located 16 kilometers from Coyhaique. The interior trails are 3.5 km and 14.5 km, round trip.
animals.
»»Reservations:
No reservations required; however, you must register with the ranger and pay an entrance fee. There are several regional guides who offer these treks. It is important to choose a guide with experience working in the reserve, good equipment, and knowledge of rescue and first aid. Some options include:
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»»Duration: Four hours for the 3.5 km
trail and 8 - 12 hours for the trail to the summit.
»»Seasonality: Year round. In winter you
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can snowshoe and randonee ski.
»»Special
Considerations: Trekking poles, hiking boots, layered clothing and a waterproof jacket are all important for these hikes. You’ll also want sunglasses, sunscreen and a brimmed hat. Carry your own water, snacks and a camera. Please be extra cautious in this, and other likely Huemul habitats, that your actions and movements do not produce stress for these special and endangered
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trail starts in the ranger post and runs along a ridge that constantly overlooks the valley below, and its forests that begin as deciduous and then abruptly change to temperate rain forest. While observing coigües, tepas, mañios, ciruelillo, canelo, tepu and chilcos, perhaps you will encounter a huemul. If you should be so lucky, stay still and avoid making noise that might startle or stress the animals. Do not take flash photography and if you want close-up shots, bring appropriate lenses. Do not approach the animals. The second trail is longer and more technical, climbing alongside the western shore of a
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Cristian Solis, Expediciones GeoSur, Simón Bolívar 521; (067) 2221990 - (09) 92648671; www. geosurexpediciones.com; cristian@geosurexpediciones.com Hugo Castañeda, Alma Patagónica Expediciones - Ignacio Serrano 621; (09) 76183588; contacto@ almapatagonica.cl; www.almapatagonica.cl Manuel Medina, Aventura Tehuelche, Pimpinela 723; (09) 84118736; aventuratehuelche@gmail.com; www.aventuratehuelche.cl Cristhopher Piñeira, Ecotravel Patagonia; (09) 56679288; contacto@ecotravelpatagonia.com; www.ecotravelpatagonia.com
stream until reaching an old logging road and a decommissioned sawmill. From here the trail makes an abrupt right hand turn, heading upward through the forest to the vegetational limit. Once above the tree line, you’ll need to find the best route to access the flat area with several small lagoons. Then, take the trail toward the pass that separates some small valleys. Once above the pass, skirt the top of the mountain (Cerro Cordillerano), along the right hand side, making your way to the next pass, known as the Filo. From here, ascend to the summit of Cerro Filo. Return following the same route.
BRING ANCIENT ICE FIELDS BACK TO LIFE DURING THIS WEEKEND ESCAPE
Glacial Ice and tectonic forces have made Patagonia an incredible natural work of art and this short getaway gives you the chance to study the canvas from up close! Prepare your bike, your tent and your fishing rod and follow this 157 km route, winding around beautiful valleys, lake after lake, and river after river; all within a few hours of Coyhaique. You have probably noticed the diverse and almost erratic variance of landscapes in Aysén; immense pampas, dense forests, jagged cliffs, green meadows and giant rocks seemingly tossed here and there. The unpredictable scenarios are almost ALWAYS intercepted by water; fjords, rivers, lakes, lagoons and cascades; practically everywhere you look. These landscapes are the testimony of glaciations, a natural phenomenon that began on the planet 3 million years ago. The most recent glaciation ended approximately 10,000 years ago.
We may not have a time machine but if you use the clues and visible traces on this 157 km route, your imagination can provide the means to recreate the icy wonders that molded the incredible landscapes between Coyhaique, the sector of Six Lagunas, and the route between Elizalde Lake, the Paloma River and Caro Lake. The route is easily traveled in a day by 4x4 vehicle, with time for a picnic and a few hours of fishing. And if you’re looking to get away for a long weekend, we suggest biking the route as a three
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If we could step back millions of years in time, the planet would look completely different. Imagine scheduling your time machine to go back a little more than two million years and taking the opportunity to walk from Siberia to Alaska without any problem. Or 700 thousand years ago, when Coyhaique was completely covered over by a giant ice field. In fact, the entire Southern Cone was covered by glaciers and as warming began to melt the ice, you could navigate to Argentina through the El Blanco and Simpson Rivers, because in this time, the waters drained toward the east.
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or four day expedition. It will give you the opportunity to get closer to the sites on this beautiful route, and your slower pace will give you time to notice and appreciate the details.
The circuit starts and ends in Coyhaique. Depart from the Plaza de Arms on Paseo Horn, heading southwest toward Arturo Prat. Take a left, continue 4 blocks to Av Simpson and turn right, advancing a couple of blocks to the road on your left that descends toward the Simpson River. You’ll soon pass over a hanging bridge. Take a look toward your right and you’ll see the Piedra del Indio (Rock of the Indian), a weathered rock cliff that has been molded by the force of the winds to resemble an Indian brave; a great first example of what nature can do to a landscape.
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Follow this road through the El Claro Sector and veer right at the fork, taking the next left (Km 3) for Route X-608, and the Coyhaique Airfield. Pass the airfield in continue straight passing a series of farms and forest sectors that border the Simpson River. Around Km 16 you will pass a beautiful cascade before coming to a crossing where there is a giant wall of sand to the right, the remnant of a giant ancient lake that formed during the retreat of the glaciers and covered much of the valley you will soon be moving through. Turn toward the left, entering route X-648 and
the Six Lagunas Sector. For the next 20 km you will see a multitude of lakes and lagoons and spectacular scenery. The landscape is full of blues and greens, flowers, fields, and you will likely spot a variety of migratory birds. Millions of years ago, this entire landscape was under a gigantic ice field and later, when the ice receded, an enormous lake was formed that extended throughout this entire route. If you look closely in the Seis Lagunas Sector, you will make out the borders of this ancient lake, which shrank during the centuries; appearing like contour markers on a giant living map. In km 36 you will come to a crossing. Take the road on the right (Route X-686), which winds for approximately 48 kilometers bordering Elizalde Lake, the Paloma River and, finally, Caro Lake. As you border the Elizal-
de Lake, pay attention for the clues of the ancient moving ices that are all around you: smooth and polished rocks that are often scarred by deep scratches marking the path of advances and retreats. Elizalde is one of the most well-known and visited lakes in the region, with a public beach, camping areas, various cabanas, a rural hospedaje and various boat operators who offer fishing excursions. This is a great lake for trout! The next section takes you through farm lands on the way to the Paloma River Valley. Keep watch for a strange honeycomb like rock formation on the overhanging rock wall you will see on your left in Km 47. This rock formation is called columnar jointing and it’s formed within basaltic lava flows like this during the cooling process. When the lava cools rapidly from the outside in, often as a result of being submerged in river currents, shrinkage occurs and causes cracks to form in this unique and beautiful hexagonal pattern. Looking at this incredible formation, you can imagine this landscape taking shape after hundreds of thousands of years under ice. The eruption of volcanoes shaped new contours in the recently exposed land and the retreating ice was giving force to giant rivers. Thus, in this very spot, the river’s waters cooled the lava and formed these per-
fect hexagons. Now, hundreds of thousands of years later, your travels have brought you to this very spot, to observe and imagine these ancient landscapes. You’ll enter the Paloma River Valley crossing over a beautiful gorge formed by the River, which then winds through a relatively narrow valley, bordered on both sides by high peaks that are snow-covered in winter and reveal tiny (but impressive), glaciers during the summer, the last remnants of the ultimate glacial age. There are good campsites and excellent fishing at the edge of the river.
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As you continue through the valley on the way to Caro Lake, the landscape transform again, with thousand year old forests and the photogenic corrals, horses and farm houses of the sectors rural ranches. The lake is surrounded by forest of tepas, coigües, mañíos and arrayanes, providing an evergreen exuberance that shelters the rocky beach with plenty of wooded areas for camping.
OVERVIEW »»Activity Type: Scenic route in vehicle or bicycle
»»Start: Plaza of Arms, Coyhaique. »»End: Plaza of Arms, Coyhaique. »»Distance: The complete circuit is 157 km.
»»Duration: In vehicle, schedule 8 hours AYSÉN - SIMPSON AREA 258
for this excursion and you will have time for photo stops, a picnic and fishing along the route. If cycling, schedule 2 - 4 days for this expedition.
»»Seasonality:
Year round, depending on road conditions.
»»Special Considerations: If you’re in a vehicle, drive with caution as there are places with loose gravel and steep inclines. Bring picnic supplies as there are no stores in the route. If you’re biking, bring the necessary equipment: tents, stoves, provisions, etc. Dress in layers using bright colors and
Return along the same path to its junction with the track of the sector Six Lagoons, where you must bend to the right and move forward a couple of kilometers toward the junction opposite the small village of Villa Frei. Turn left and follow this road for approximately 10 Km, passing the village of Simpson Valley up to the junction with Route 245 which runs between Balmaceda and Puerto Aysén. Veer to the right and at 19 km you’ll be back in Coyhaique.
reflectors and be aware of traffic, especially on the main roads. You need to purchase a fishing license (www. sernapesca.cl) and inform yourself about regulations and how to prevent the spread of Didymo, a highly invasive algae which has contaminated rivers throughout the world, including in Aysén (www.didymo.cl).
»»Reservations:
Self-guided activity. Does not require reservations. You can rent bicycles and also contract guides and logistical services:
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Historic Café Ricer - Horn #48; (067) 2232920; www.historicoricer.wordpress.com; Facebook: RestaurantHistoricoRicer. Purapatagonia Excursions and Expeditions - General Parra #202; (067) 2246000; info@purapatagonia.cl; www.purapatagonia. cl.
BOTTLE THE ESSENCE OF PATAGONIA AT BEAUTIFUL FRIO LAKE
Artisan fruit-infused liqueurs are found throughout the Chile, but in Aysén they take on unique characteristics. The purity of the water and intense climate provide a special essence to native fruits. When blended with family traditions and expertise, the result is amazing flavor and color - unique concoctions that you won’t be able to resist taking home to share with friends. When you visit the Aysén Region you’re surrounded by its beautiful landscapes, full of intense colors, scents and flavors, especially if you time your trip with the summer season, when the countryside is full of wild fruits, like murta, calafate and wild strawberries, as well as fruit trees like cherries, apricots and raspberries. Wouldn’t you love to be able to bottle these sensations to carry them home? You can!
The adventure begins 23 km south of Coyhaique, in the family farm of Don Hernan Riquelme Jara and his wife, Señora Norma Quijada de La Hoz. Depart Coyhaique toward the Balmaceda Airport and turn left after 14 km, at the crossing for El Fraile (Route X-667). Continue along this route for approximately 7 km, until you reach Route X-659, marked with signs indicating Lago Frio. Take a right and drive another two km to a beautiful farm on the right hand side, which is home to
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In fact, many Aysén families have a long-standing tradition of capturing summer and bottling it up for a little bit of sunshine during the long months of winter. How? By steeping handpicked berries and fruits in Chilean Aguardiente, an alcohol made like Italian grappa, by distilling the left over grape residues, after pressing for wine making. Using a special artisan process and fruits picked at the perfect height of their ripeness, you can literally capture and preserve the essence of a place. And just 23 kilometers outside of Coyhaique, you can spend a day with a master of artisan liqueurs, Señora Norma Quijada de La Hoz, and learn the entire process of bottling up summer – from the search for the perfect fruits to the tasting at the end of the day; and, you take home a bottle of this magic, with the essence of Patagonian summers captured in every delicious drop.
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TRAVELERS’ TIPS When you visit Señora Norma, don’t miss the opportunity to enjoy a delicious asado in the Quincho Don Santiago. It is prepared with beef or lamb from their own farm and the atmosphere is amazing, with panoramic views of Frio Lake. the Quincho Don Santiago, a rural banquet house. The farm sits up on the hill and overlooks a panoramic view of Frio Lake, located just on the other side of the road. You’ll probably find Señora Norma working in her greenhouse or garden, or preparing marmalades, liqueurs or some other goodie in the Quincho. This farm originally belonged to pioneer, Belisario Jara, Hernan’s grandfather. Norma’s family also lived in the sector and they had always been friends, until, one magical day, they fell in love and later, decided to marry. They decided to live in the farm and restored Belisario’s historic home together, continuing the family traditions of ranching
OVERVIEW »»Activity Type: Gastronomy.
Purchase and/or assist in the preparation of artisan liqueurs.
»»Start: Quincho Don Santiago, Frio Lake.
»»End: Enjoying the essence of Patagonia.
»»Distance: 56 miles from Coyhaique, round trip.
»»Duration:
Half day experience which involves collection of fruits and preparation of the steeping process, as well as tasting liqueurs that have previously been prepared. The artisan liqueur takes a minimum of four months to prepare and distill.
»»Seasonality: Year round. »»Special Considerations: If you cannot find ripe local fruits or ingredients at home, purchase ripe fruits of choice at a local fair or market.
»»Reservations: To organize your vis-
it, contact Señora Norma Quijada: (09) 87869820. You can also coordinate your visit through the Casa del Turismo Rural, located in the Tourism Information Center in the Plaza of Arms in Coyhaique; (067) 2524929; www.casaturismorural.cl.
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and farming. Norma learned how to make liqueurs from her mom who had learned from her own mom, Norma’s grandmother. The process is actually pretty straightforward; but, according to Norma, there are two important secrets that absolutely cannot be ignored. First, capturing the essence of Patagonia requires harvesting the fruits at the absolute height of their ripeness. Second, success demands patience; the marinating process can take up to six long months. You probably don’t have that much time in Patagonia; so, we suggest a bit of “paying it forward”. Spend the day with Señora Norma and Don Hernan and learn the tradition. Your batch will go into the queue, ready for a future visitor who, like you, is looking for the magic way to bottle Patagonia and take its essence home.
RECIPE FOR PATAGONIA WILD FRUIT ARTISAN LIQUEURS »»Ingredients & equipment • 1 liter bottle of aguardiente. • 2.5 kilos of wild fruit (calafate, • • • • • •
murta, cherries, etc.). 1 cup of sugar. 3 cups of water. Saucepan and strainer. 5 liter glass container with a hermetic seal. Cheesecloth to strain and filter the fruit. Small sterilized bottles with corks or caps, for bottling the liqueur.
»»Preparation
Step 2: Steep the fruits. This is one of the most important stages and using a good aguardiente will ensure the best results. Place the washed, drained and dried fruits in a large, 5 liter (or larger), glass
Step 3: Prepare and add the syrup. Spend a few hours wandering the fields and forests of Norma and Hernan’s farm in search of the perfect fruits, at the height of their ripeness. You can use cherries, plums, calafate, murta, raspberries, wild strawberries, or any other delicious Patagonian flavor, including herbs, like sarsaparilla, mint or lemon verbena. Wash your treasures well and leave to drain, taking care to remove any stems that might leave a bitter taste in the liqueur. Step 4: Filter and bottle. Use the cheesecloth to filter the fruit, filling the glass bottles with the filtered liqueur. It may be easier to filter the liqueur first into another large container and then pour the filtered liqueur into the smaller recipients. You can discard the fruits or, serve them as a garnish or dessert. Step 5: Time to taste! Now that you’ve proven your patience, it’s time to be rewarded with a taste. Señora Norma suggests serving your liqueur in brandy snifters or port wine glasses.
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Step 1: Collect and wash the fruit. Spend a few hours wandering the fields and forests of Norma and Hernan’s farm in search of the perfect fruits, at the height of their ripeness. You can use cherries, plums, calafate, murta, raspberries, wild strawberries, or any other delicious Patagonian flavor, including herbs, like sarsaparilla, mint or lemon verbena. Wash your treasures well and leave to drain, taking care to remove any stems that might leave a bitter taste in the liqueur.
container with a hermetic seal. Pour the entire bottle of aguardiente over the fruit and seal the container. Steep the fruits for at least two months in a darkened place that does not receive direct sunlight.
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BALMACEDA IS SURE TO (ALMOST) BLOW YOU AWAY!
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The regional airport is located just steps away from the small border town of Balmaceda. Yes, it is tiny, but its history is gigantic. Instead of spending hours waiting at the airport, leverage your last few minutes being “blown away” by the fresh Patagonian breezes and one of the oldest settlements in the region. In addition to being beside the airport and just paces from the Argentine border, the village of Balmaceda affords a MUCH more interesting alternative to sitting in a smalltown airport waiting for a flight. Here’s our recommendation - arrive at the Balmaceda Airport two hours in advance of your flight, march right up to the counter (because if you arrive this early, you’ll avoid the long lines that will form a bit later), check your bags and pick-up your boarding passes, and then, walk right out the front door and over to the tiny town of Balmaceda which has a lot more to offer than first meets the eye. And, if you are crossing the Huemules Pass on your way to Argentina, stop a few moments in this town before the border and enjoy a last little bit of Chile before entering the endless landscapes of the pampa! Balmaceda was founded on January 1, 1917, by Jose Antolin Silva Ormeño. During this time in history, the divisions between Chilean and Argentinean Patagonia were becoming much more concrete and there was a lot of pressure for Chilean nationals who had been living, informally, in Argentina, to return to Chilean soils. Silva sought to provide a refuge for Chilean citizens who had been living in the Argentine province of Chubut, and wanted to return home; thus, he created one of the first settlements of the Aysén region, right across the Huemul border crossing, just meters across the border.
Silva’s legacy is all around you in Balmaceda. For example, as you walk around Balmaceda you’ll see several of the older houses that appear distinct from the typical architecture of Coyhaique and other areas of Aysén. While they include elements of Chilean architecture, like tejuelas, they also incorporate a clear Argentine influence, like the use of
adobe and bricks. And when you arrive at the recently renovated Plaza of Arms, take a look at the monument named, “The image of a Visionary”, which honors Silva. Don’t be alarmed if you hear an eerie hiss; the monument was designed with a unique system of pipes that produce a whistling noise when the wind fills them with wind. And as you will quickly notice, the wind never stops blowing in Balmaceda, so the whistling pays a constant tribute. There is another sector of the square dedicated to the ferocious Patagonia “breezes”; this time with a series of artistic mobiles that all come to life with the near constancy of winds. To learn more about Silva and the history of the village, visit the local library and Museum of the Pioneers. Located next to the plaza, this is the place to discover the legacy of the first settlers who arrived in the region of Aysén, via a fantastic photography collection and an array of other artifacts. Often, there are also some living exhibits at the museum; long-time residents who are more than happy to share a few stories with interested visitors, before grabbing a new book
TRAVELERS’ TIPS If you are a fishing fan and just can’t get enough of your favorite sport, get in a few more casts in the river right by the side of the road, just before arriving in Balmaceda. or checking their email. After a walk around, stop in one of the great little snack bars or restaurants in town for a quick bite. In the Rincón De Mirna (Mackenna 832), you’ll be served by owner Mirna Echaveguren, who offers a daily lunch special and homemade food. At the “Fast and Rich” Restaurant, located in the C block of the Vientos del Sur neighborhood, Señora Ruth Vera serves delicious sandwiches, like beef churrasco or ham and cheese, on homemade bread. Both Señora Mirna and Señora Ruth will be happy to share stories about their tiny village as they prepare a farewell snack.
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OVERVIEW
»»Activity Type: Walk around the town of Balmaceda.
»»Start:
The Balmaceda Airport, located 55 km southeast of the city of Coyhaique.
»»End: Back at the airport in plenty of time for your flight.
»»Distance: Balmaceda is located just a few meters from the airport and consists of no more than 10 blocks.
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»»Duration: Approximately 1 hour. »»Seasonality: Year round. »»Special Considerations: It is very, very,
very unlikely to find a day without wind in Balmaceda, so carry a windbreaker when you head to the airport. If you get to the airport late and don’t have time to go Balmaceda, the Las Piedras Cafeteria, located on the second floor of the airport, has good coffee and sandwiches. In addition to the café, the airport has ATM service,
souvenir kiosks, transfers, and rent a car.
»»Reservations:
If you need transfers between the airport and other regional destinations you can book with:
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T & T Transfer - Subteniente Cruz 63, Coyhaique; (067) 2256000; (09) 93123939; tranytur@gmail. com; www.tranytur.cl. Transfer Valencia - Lautaro 828, Coyhaique; (067) 2233030 or Alcalde Chindo Vera 183; Puerto Aysén; (09) 66540076; transfervalencia@hotmail.com; www. transfervalencia.cl. Transfer Velasquez - Los Alamos 1023, Coyhaique; (067) 2250413. Traeger Rent a Car - Av. Baquedano 457, Coyhaique and at the Balmaceda Airport; (067) 2231648; contacto@traeger.cl; www. traeger.cl.
BIODIVERSITY IN THE AYSÉN – SIMPSON AREA The flora and fauna that you may see include: Trees and shrubs: Black Poplar (Populus nigra - Introduced); Araurcaria chilean (Araucaria araucana - Introduced); Arrayán (Luma apiculata); Calafate (Berberis buxifolia); Canelo (Drimys winteri); Chaura (Pernettya mucronata); Chilco (Fuchsia magellanica); Ciruelillo or Notro (Embothrium coccineum); Coigüe (Nothofagus dombeyi); Coigüe Chiloe (Nothofagus nitida); Magellan coigüe (Nothofagus betuloides); Lenga (Nothofagus pumilio); Luma (Amomyrtus luma); Short Needled Mañío (Saxegothaea conspicua ); Michay (Berberis ilicifolia); Murtilla (Empetrum rubrum); Ñirre (Nothofagus antarctica ); Rose Hips (Rosa rubiginosa - introduced); Willow or Sauce (Salix humboldtiana - Introduced); Tepa (Laureliopsis philipiana); Tepú (Tepualia stipularis); Sarsaparilla (Ribes magellanicum) Flowers and Canes: Astelia (Astelia pumila); Coligüe cane (Chusquea culeou); Quila cane (Chusquea quila); Coicopihue (Philesia magellanica); Dandelion or chicory (Taraxacum officinale); Wild strawberries (Fragaria chiloensis); Juncillo reed (Marsippospermum grandiflorum); Mata Negra (Chilitrichum diffusum); Neneo (Mulimum spinosum); Panguecito or Devil’s strawberry (Gunnera magellanica); Scotch Broom (Spartium junceum - introduced) quadripinnata); Old Man’s Beard (Usnea barbata); Rib’s cowfern (Blechnum chilense); Digüeñe of Coigüe (Cyttaria harioti); Digüeñe of Ñirre (Cyttaria darwinii); Fuinque (Lomatia ferruginea); Giant palmetto fern (blech-num magellanicum); Film Fern (Hymenophyllum dentatum or Hymenophyllum pectinatum); Feather Fern (Blechnum penna - marina); Morrell mushroom (Morchella conica); Pinito moss (Dendroligotrichum dendroides); Nalca or pangue (Gunnera tinctoria); Palmita (Lycopodium paniculatum); Palomita (Codonorchis lessonii); Frog’s Parasol (Hypopterygium arbuscula); Topa topa or Capachito (Calceolaria tenella); Yerba loza or Palmita (Gleichenia quadripartita)
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Mosses, Fungi and Ferns: Ampe or Palmita (Lophosoria
Birds: Eagle (Geranoaetus melanoleucus); Hawk (Buteo polyosoma); Bandurria (Theristicus melanopis or Theristicus
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caudatus); Cachana or Austral Parakeet (Enicognathus ferrugineus); or Canquenes or Caiquenes (Chloegphaga picta or Chloegphaga poliocephala); Caracara or Carancho (Phalcoboenus albogularis); Ordinary woodpecker (Picoides lignarius); Black woodpecker (Campephilus magellanicus); Kestrel (Falco sparverius); Chincol (Zonotrichia capensis); Chucao (Scelorchilus rubecola); Chuncho (Glacidium nanum); Cinclodes (Cinclodes patagonicus); Black-necked swan (Cygnus melancoryphus); Patagonian finch (Phrygilus patagonicus); Condor (Vultur gryphus’); Rock Comorant (Phalacrocorax magellanicus); White-crested elaenia (Elaenia albiceps); Chilean flamingo (Phoenicopterus chilensis); White Heron (Ardea alba ); Gull (Larus scoresbii); Brown Gull (Larus maculipennis); Franklin’s Gull (Larus pipixcan); Dominican gull (Larus dominicanus); Elegant tern (Sterna elegans); South American tern (Sterna hirundinacea); Swallowtail (Tachycinetta leucopyga or Hirundo rustica ); Huairavo ( Nycticorax nycticorax); Huala (Podiceps greater); Throated Huethuet (Pteroptochos tarnii); Goldfinch (Carduelis barbatus); Kingfisher (Ceryle torquata); Common lesser rhea (Rhea americana ); Duck (cormorant); Torrent Duck (Merganetta armata); Large jergon Duck (Anas georgica spinicauda); Pejerrey (Odontesthes regia); Pinche (Zaerius pichyi-pichyi); Chilean Flicker (Colaptes pitius o Colaptes pitius chachinnans); Flightless steamer duck ( Tachyeres pteneres ); Flying steamer duck (Tachyeres patachonicus); Rayadito (Aphrastura spinicauda); Chilean Skua (Stercorarius chilensis); Tero (Vanellus chilensis); Tordo (Curaeus curaeus); Guanay cormorant (Phalacrocorax olivaceus or Phalacrocorax brasilianus); Thrush (Turdus falcklandii)
Land Mammals : Guanaco (Lama guanicoe); Huemul (Hippocamelus bisulcus); Huiña, Güiña, Colorado or Colo Cat (Leopardus guigna); Wild boar (Sus scrofa - introduced); Patagonian hare (Dolichotis patagonum); Armadillo (Zaedyus pichiy); Hairy Armadillo (Chaetophractus villosus); Pudú (Pudu puda); Puma (Puma concolor); Arboreal rat (Irenomys tarsalis); Orange nosed rat (Abrothrix xanthorhinus); Long haired rat (Abrothrix longipilis); European mink (Mustela lutreola - introduced); Patagonian skunk (Conepatus humboldtii); Colorado or Culpeo Fox (Lycalopex culpaeus) AYSÉN - SIMPSON AREA 266
Fish, Mollusks and Crustaceans: Cholga mussel (Aulacomya ater); Chorito mussel (Mytilus chilensis); Choro Mussel (Choromytilus chorus); Peladilla (Aplochiton zebra); Chinook salmon (Onchorhynchus body - Introduced); Coho Salmon (Oncorhynchus kisutch - Introduced); Rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss - Introduced); Fario trout (Salmo trutta fario - Introduced); Morrón trout (Salmo trutta - Introduced)