Baker - O'Higgins Cultural Area (Aysén, an Undiscovered Patagonia)

BAKER - O’HIGGINS CULTURAL AREA

Travels through the Baker - O’Higgins Area - Aysén Region of Chile PER PERSON

15 DAYS 14 NIGHTS

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TWO (MR & MRS. – OUR HONEYMOON!)

$4,000 USD

Details of our expenses: Transportation = $5,000 (Air, Rental Vehicle, Petroleum, International Insurance) Accommodation and Food = $1,800 ($120 /day average) Excursions and Souvenirs = $1,200 I am back in the incredible Region of Aysén and married, to Andy! It was a beautiful, intimate wedding, just like we wanted, with all of the most important people in our lives. The decision of where to go for our honeymoon was easy. Since Andy had gone to the Patagonian Ice Fields, he could not stop talking about the Baker – O’Higgins Area of the Region of Aysén, so we decided to spend our honeymoon adventuring through this beautiful area, home of the mighty Baker River, giant Cerro San Lorenzo, the beautiful Chacabuco Valley, and the Northern and Southern Patagonian Ice Fields. What better way to celebrate our love than surrounded by all this incredible nature? Plus, since we were beginning our two-week trip on December 17, only a couple of days before the summer solstice, the days were super long, especially in such a southern latitude. We had the luxury of 17 hours of daylight – practically like squeezing in an extra week!

Day 1: Making our way to Mallín Colorado The prior couple of months had been a whirlwind of activities. After (finally) celebrating our wedding with friends and family, we had taken the overnight flight from JFK to Santiago, and then to Balmaceda (BBA), where we picked up the 4x4 we had reserved for our adventure (Traeger Rent a Car www.traeger.cl). FINALLY!!! We were on our own with nothing more to do than explore some of the most incredible places on the planet. All around us there were mountains, forests, rivers and incredible landscapes that seemed to have no end; it was definitely an excellent replacement for the skyscrapers, traffic, and smog. We made our way from the airport to the Carretera Austral and turned south to begin our journey to Puerto Bertrand. We had agreed that nothing was going to hurry us on this trip; so, true to our pledge, we stopped about a million times to take photos… in the Ibáñez Pass, at the first sighting (and the second, and the third…) of majestic Cerro Castillo and in thousand other spots along the way. There were so many places that tempted us along the route, but our reservations were waiting further south.

At 16:00 we arrived in Mallín Colorado Ecolodge (www. mallincolorado.cl), and owner Paula Christenson was waiting with a warm welcome hug. After a short orientation in the clubhouse, she left us solo in our cabana, with an awesome surprise: a bottle of champagne and a platter of artisan cheeses with homemade bread rounds and raspberries from the farm. The staff had placed vases of fresh wildflowers all around the cabin and the fire in the stove was warm and inviting. It was ABSOLUTELY PERFECT and definitely, unforgettable!

Day 2: Puerto Bertrand and the mighty Baker River

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We slept late because we only needed to drive 19 km that day, from Mallín Colorado to Puerto Bertrand, where we had plans to go rafting on the Baker River in the afternoon. It was an awesome lazy morning! We spoiled ourselves gazing out the huge windows at the panoramic views of Patagonia and only getting up to put another log in the wood-stove and answer the door when the staff brought over a delicious homemade breakfast. Finally, we made our way over to the clubhouse to eat lunch and thank Paula for such awesome service and hospitality. We left around 15:30 and arrived in Puerto Bertrand, a tiny town on the banks of the Baker River, with time to go by the Baker Patagonia (www.bakerpatagonia.com) offices and confirm our reservations at 17:00.

We still had a bit of time so we dropped our stuff at the Patagonia Baker Lodge (www.pbl.cl), changed clothes and headed back to town to challenge the Baker. Andy had told me about the Baker River several times, but I had never imagined water so beautiful, so turquoise, so powerful and pure.

We geared up, listened to a brief safety speech, and hit the water! We went through a few rapids like “El Potro” and “El Reservado” where you could really feel the adrenaline, but my favorite part of the trip was the calmer sections where you could relax and take in the incredible scenery. Towards

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the end, most of us jumped into the water, including Andy and I. It was awesome. Afterwards, we went to meet with Hector Soto, (hectorbertrand@yahoo.es), our guide for a three-day horse expedition in the Solar Valley and the Nef Glacier, which is part of the Northern Patagonia Ice Field.

Day 3: Ride through the Valley Soler to a gaucho refuge Unlike the previous day, this morning we woke up really, really early, had a hearty breakfast and checked our backpacks one last time making sure we had everything we would need for two nights in the back country. We left our car and the rest of our things at the lodge and one of their staff dropped us off at the docks in town, where we were meeting Hector.

I was SO excited – I had wanted to see the ice fields up close for years! Once I had watched a documentary that had shown aerial views of the ice fields and from above, there were dozens of glaciers descending from the ice mass into the fjords and lakes in the valleys below. And then, ever since Andy had worked on a project about the ice fields, it had been on our mutual list to hike on the ice fields together. So, the idea of this tour was to visit the Nef Glacier, on the edge of the Northern Ice Field, and to get there, we would cross lakes, mountains and valleys; first by boat and then, on horseback. What an incredible way to start our married lives!

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Hector was waiting for us at the docks and within a hectic half an hour we were strapped in our life jackets and settled in the boat, amidst several boxes of supplies for our trip. It took about an hour and a half to cross the transparent waters of Bertrand Lake before rounding a point and entering Plomo Lake. (Plomo means “lead” in Spanish and it was a perfect name for the color of this lake!). Finally, we reached the head of the Soler Valley, our destination for disembarking.

We offloaded our gear in an old wheelbarrow and headed off into the bushes and reeds in route to an old farmhouse where a gaucho was waiting for us with our horses. I was given a mare named “Orejona” (which means “big ears”), Andy had “Manchitas” (spots), Don Lucho (the gaucho) was on “Luna” (Moon), and Hector had “El Jefe” (The Boss). It didn’t take long to figure why El Jefe had been given his name. The first day’s ride was a bit more than six hours; we crossed the amazing Solar Valley from its head to its end, and I honestly imagined myself as the heroine in my own fantasy film; amazing forests all around us, wetlands, ancient glacial moraine and tons of streams and rivers. We crossed most of them and with Hector and Lucho as coaches; I really improved my riding skills. At the end of the valley, we entered the forest and soon arrived at the Palomar camp, where we set up tents for the night. There was an old gaucho outpost at the camp where we could gather around a rustic cook stove and share hours of yerba mate listening to Hector serenade the night skies with rounds and rounds of gaucho ballads (we had been pretty psyched when he had told us he had bought his guitar). The Paloma Ranch is actually owned by the company, Patagonia Adventure Expeditions (www.adventurepa-

tagonia.com), and thankfully, the owner, Jonathan Leidich, allows some guides, including Hector, to use the outpost for their clients. After an incredible dinner, we settled into our sleeping bags and we both fell right to sleep.

Day 4: Conquering the ice of the Nef

Day 5: Return to Puerto Bertrand and visit to stormy waters After another great breakfast, we mounted our horses and begin the journey back to Puerto Bertrand. We arrived at Don Lucho’s farm around 13:30 and his wife greeted us with a Chicken Cazuela before we headed back across the lakes.

We arrived in Bertrand around 17:00, in time for a shower and a visit to the confluence of the Baker and Nef Rivers. I’d

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At dawn there was not a cloud in the sky, just the last of the previous night’s stars telling us that the day would be beautiful, hot and sunny. But not just yet; at that very early morning hour it was C-O-L-D and I was glad to sit by the fire in the shelter and start the day with several rounds of mate.

After a bit, Hector and Lucho broke out the supplies for a delicious breakfast with homemade bread, scrambled eggs, salami, cheese and calafate jam. Yum! Then we saddled up the horses for a brief 1 hour ride that took us through the forest to the edge of the moraine. We left the horses at the edge to graze and continued on foot, carrying our backpacks, crampons and, of course, my beloved camera. We walked an hour or more; first, through a swampy area and then, up steep moraine to a plateau. We stopped for a quick break and Hector reached down with one hand to brush away the pebbles and reveal a grainy, dirty slush. “Look,” he said, “did you notice that we are already on the glacier?” Wow! As we moved on, the pebbles and sand disappeared and the surface began to get slippery. It was time to put on the crampons and adjust to our new pace (with crampons you have to walk with your legs a little wider apart and take firm steps to bury the metal spikes in the ice). We walked single file over the totally irregular surface, full of mounds, cracks, small streams and enormous grietas, which are deep holes that can reach all the way to the base of the glacier. It was amazing! Just as promised, the weather had turned sunny and hot and it was the perfect contrast with the ice. We took turns climbing ice walls with the ice axes and took a million pictures before heading back. When we reached the edge of the ice, we took a break for mate and a snack. I could have stayed there forever, but Andy wanted to get some fly-fishing in the afternoon, so we began the walk down to the horses and the return to camp. In the afternoon I slept in my hammock while Andy went off to fish with Hector, and Don Lucho started working on dinner, a lamb asado that was delicious.

The four of us stayed up late, enjoying the fire and red wine and listening to Hector’s beautiful guitar. At some point I fell asleep in Andy’s arms; I faintly remember him carrying me to the tent and helping me snuggle into my sleeping bag; and after that, nothing!

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seen it a million times in photos, but I still wasn’t prepared for the power of the Baker as it flowed down to join with the Nef. It was full of energy and life and it was so inspiring to realize that its beautiful clear waters were joining with the turbid waters of the very glacier we had been walking on just a day earlier! We sat on the rocks overlooking the rivers for a couple of hours watching the river and the changing Patagonia light.

Day 6: Tour of Cochrane and trekking with the huemules in RN Tamango

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We woke up “relatively” early (10:00) to continue our journey toward Cochrane, the largest village in the whole area with 3,000 inhabitants. It was less than an hour from Bertrand, so we arrived with plenty of time to walk around and check out the town. If you go, don’t miss a visit to the Melero Supermarket ((067) 2236505), next to the Plaza de Arms; it’s what Walmart should have been; a locally owned and operated store that sells EVERYTHING – I’m not kidding.

Here’s a quick sample: fruits, cheeses, wines, boat motors, chainsaws, diapers, school uniforms, fine jewelry, axes and stuffed animals. Such an awesome place! We spent an hour exploring the Melero and buying some supplies for our next adventure at Mount San Lorenzo. Then we went over to the Banco Estado (www.bancoestado.cl; (067) 2455420), on the other side of the Plaza to see if we could use their ATM machine (the last one we would find during the trip). We weren’t able to use a credit card but our bank card worked, so we can took out some cash and walked next door for lunch at the Cafe Tamango, ((09) 91584521). What a surprise!

We had delicious vegetarian crepes with natural juices and a rhubarb küchen with homemade ice cream for dessert. In the afternoon we visited the Tamango National Reserve, one of the best places in the region to see Huemul, the southernmost deer species in the world, and unfortunately, an animal in danger of extinction. We had last seen huemul a year earlier, when hiking in Cerro Huemul, near Coyhaique and we thought it would be pretty romantic to hike in Tamango and try our luck as a married couple. Tamango is only 6 km from Cochrane and on the way, there are several great cabins; like Cabanas Brellenthin (turismobrellenthin@gmail.com), situated right next to the Cochrane River, and we arranged to check-in, after our hike. At the entrance to the Reserve (a bit further down the same road), we paid our fees and talked awhile with the administrator, Hernan Velasquez, who cares for this site along with two other Conaf rangers. He recommended that we travel the Cochrane River via boat to the Lake and hike back the 11 km to the entrance. We walked back up the road to the San Sebastian Chacra, where there was a sign for “Tomasin Boat Excursions”, and met up with Cesar, who would be our captain for the trip. It is a beautiful river and the trip was super relaxed, with only one whitewater section (Las Correntadas) which looked like it would be fun in kayak. In our wooden boat it seemed like it could be a bit precarious, so we got out and walked while Cesar navigated the rapids and then he stopped below so we

could re-board. We walked slowly through the forest, just in case, and sure enough, Andy spotted a huemul. Quietly, he whispered, “To the left”, and there was a beautiful male huemul and a bit further, a smaller female, with her baby! The three ate quietly and we stopped while I got out my camera and set to work. It was really awesome and I used my entire 16 gig memory card! We didn’t want to disturb them so we made a wide circle and started back to the boat. The river was almost completely transparent, with amazing teals and blues and Cochrane Lake is equally stunning. Cesar dropped us at a beach with a camping area and we started the hike back, which took a total of six hours. The first part has a lot of climbs and descents and then you reach a flat area with a beautiful view of the entire sector. We saw a lot of other huemul traces, but no movements or animals, so we were really glad to have had such good luck early on! When we got back to the cabin, Don Wilson had left us firewood, so Andy played mountain man and I started dinner. We opened a few beers and headed out to the deck to enjoy our meal and watch the fish rise in the river.

Day 7: Next glacier – Calluqueo!

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We met our next guide, Jimmy Valdés, (www.lordpatagonia.cl) at 8:00 am, in the Plaza in Cochrane to head out for a full day on the Calluqueo Glacier. We were planning to go on to San Lorenzo from there so we followed him in our own pick-up. The morning was a little drizzly, but our spirits were intact, so as long as Jimmy was in, we were ready to walk; sun, rain or wind. The road toward Mount San Lorenzo was beautiful, full of forests, rivers and lakes and before you knew it, we had crossed the two final bridges, left the cars behind and hiked the three km to the Calluqueo lagoon at the base of the glacier. We crossed in a small motorboat, donned our safety equipment (crampons, ice ax and helmet) and started our climb up the ice. I love Patagonia! We walked more than 3 hours on the ice and, as if to applaud our efforts, the drizzle began to fade and the sun peeked out from the clouds, producing an incredible rainbow that lit up the glacier with hundreds of different shades of blue transparent ice. Mount San Lorenzo even made a brief appearance, but never completely showed its summit. We had lunch in the middle of the ice and then started the return journey. Around 18:30 we were back at the cars and thankfully, Jimmy offered to escort us to the Fundo San Lorenzo, (cerrosanlorenzo@gmail.com), the high mountain ranch owned by Luis Soto and Lucy Gomez, where we would spend our first Christmas as man and wife, alone in a mountain refuge at the base of San Lorenzo.

We would never have found the ranch had it not been for Jimmy! The landscape and the campsites were fabulous, with hot showers and a quincho we could use for cooking. Luis and Lucy, our hosts, joined us for a while after dinner and told us a lot of stories about the farm and about mountaineering in the sector. The first summit had been made in 1943 by a team of three: Alejandro Hemmi, Heriberto Schmolland, and a Salesian priest named Fr. Alberto De Agostini, who was 60 years old at the time. How courageous!

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Day 8: Christmas Eve in the Agostini Refuge

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While we were drinking mate, Don Luis came over to give us some instructions for the trekking we would do on the hike up to the Refugio de Agostini that he had hand built.

This refuge had been the base camp for hundreds of climbers who had attempted to climb this elusive mountain, the second highest in the Patagonia (3706 m). Why so tough?

Well, just before the summer begins, the winds appear with tremendous force and the climate becomes unstable; thus, serious mountaineers have to either get really lucky or plan their climbs in early spring or late fall, when the climate calms down a bit. Since we weren’t planning a summit, all of this had positive implications: we didn’t have to compete with climbers to spend time in this beautiful mid-mountain refuge that would be available for us as a private Christmas retreat.

It was a 5-hour hike up to the refuge, following the course of the San Lorenzo stream and a series of dried riverbeds and moraine. There was a lot of wind moving down through the narrow valley and the climb was steep, so we took our time and carefully chose our footing. The refuge was beautiful, hand built from native woods and situated in a protected grove of lenga trees, in the middle of the forest. We built a fire in the stove and set about making a special Christmas Eve snack of cheese, meats, dried fruits, crackers, and a great bottle of Chilean red wine, called Carmenere, which has an interesting story. The grape came from the Bordeaux Region of France and is a member of the Cabernet family of grapes.

Actually it is one of the six original grapes of this region, along with Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet sauvignon, Cabernet franc, and Petit Verdot. During the first half of the 19th century, Chilean growers imported Carmenere cuttings from the Bordeaux region of France. Later (in 1867), the Phylloxera plague destroyed all of the Carmenere grapevines in Europe.

The Chilean vines were forgotten and for many years the grape was presumed extinct. Moreover, in Chile, the remaining Carmenere vines had been confused for Merlot vines; which are extremely similar. 150 years passed before finally, in 1994, a French oenologist from the Montpellier region determined that some of the Chilean Merlot vines were actually ancient Bordeaux Carmenere; thus, the vines had not been wiped out after all (yes Virginia, Santa Claus and Carmenere really do exist). The Chilean Department of Agriculture officially recognized Carmenere as a distinct variety in 1998 and today, it is one of Chile’s favorite and most delicious varieties.

We brought home a case so that we could celebrate our first twelve anniversaries in style. Pretty cool, huh?

Day 9: The BEST CHRISTMAS EVER! We added a few Chilean traditions; Christmas cake, and a small sample of Cola de Mono (it’s like Irish whiskey), for an intimate breakfast before the hike down, compliments of our visit to the Melero in Cochrane. We generously left the rest of the bottle for the next guests (it was good but, we needed to be sober for the descent). This time there wasn’t much wind, so we walked faster and arrived at Luis and Lucy’s base

camp mid-morning, to share a few rounds of mate before our departure to Caleta Tortel. The road is beautiful (I know that I have said that 1000 times, but really, each landscape is a unique and amazing surprise!). Nevertheless, the best surprise came just after a picnic lunch, as we approached the Caleta. We were skirting the Baker River and a kilometer before Tortel, Andy took a detour toward the Tortel airfield.

At the end of the road there was a small parking area and a pier, where my Christmas surprise was waiting (organized in advance by Andrew): three kayaks and our guide, Enrique Fernandez, owner of Tortel Borderío (borderiotortel@ gmail.com). The idea was to bring only the essentials – our hiking boots, cameras, a change of clothes and a few other must-haves, and kayak the rest of the way to Tortel, via the Baker River, which emptied into the Tortel Fjord. How cool!

The River was so different in this sector – wide and calm, completely distinct from the headwaters we had rafted a few days before in Puerto Bertrand. There were beaches all along the route filled with driftwood and shorebirds, and after a half hour or so, we entered the fjord and made our way around the point to where the village began to reveal itself with an endless array of cypress walkways, stairs, pavilions, docks and buildings, all perched on the face of the mountain. It was amazing to get our first glance from the water, because it gave us a unique and almost magical perspective of this tiny and historic town. Normally, people drive into the parking lot at the top of the town, leave their cars, and walk down the maze of staircases and boardwalks, but in our case, we paddled right up to the Playa Ancha pier and offloaded our gear. We were within 50 meters of our lodging, at Brisas del Sur (valerialanderos@hotmail.com). Valeria, the owner, had everything waiting; a nice private room with its own bathroom, and a great dinner with more Christmas cake, but this time, it was homemade by our hostess, and the star ingredient was the stalks of the giant Nalca plants that had accompanied us throughout the drive down.

Day 10: As the Chilean toast goes: “Arriba, Abajo, al Centro y Adentro”.

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We got up early, thanks to the cheery sunlight that was streaming through the window. There was also a romantic pitter-patter of rain on the roof, a combination that is normal is this village. After breakfast, we went walking down the boardwalk toward the center of town to do a little rainbow chasing with our cameras. The architecture is beautiful; everything is built of wood and nestled in between huge ferns, nalcas, and flowering bushes. When we got back, Señora Valeria recommended a hiking circuit called La Bandera, which takes you up on top of the mountain behind Tortel to a series of overlooks, and then drops down along the boardwalk on the opposite side of town. If you lived here, you would definitely not need to go to the gym – it’s a permanent stairmaster, climbing the never ending wooden stairs, especially those that lead to this trail. But, we loved it! Up top, you enter your own little world with everything (plants, trees, mosses, lichens) in miniature, except for the 360ª views of

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the Baker River Delta, the Tortel Fjord, the nearby islands and the town. It was actually one of my favorite hikes ever in Aysén. We came back down near the elementary school and the parking lot and then dropped back down the stairs into the pueblo near the Rincón Bajo sector. Here, we climbed a short walkway toward the Restaurant Sabores Locales (reymaritza@gmail.com). It is one of the local favorites, with a cozy and casual atmosphere, and we chatted with the owner, Señorita Maritza Reyes, for literally hours after sharing a few local brews and eating a delicious frittata of farm eggs, local cheeses and chard. The sign for the restaurant is a little hidden among the bushes, so if you go, be careful that you don’t pass it by! After our marathon lunch, we made our way back to Brisas del Sur to relax and enjoy our time as newlyweds; their central heating system is exquisite, especially with the rain pouring outside.

Day 1 1: Interesting characters in the route to Villa O’Higgins

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We woke up full of energy and ready to continue our adventure. There is a walkway that goes all the way from the far end of town where we were staying, to the airstrip where our truck was parked, so we strapped up our day-packs (so glad we had only brought the essentials!!!), and began the long walk back. We had reservations in Villa O’Higgins and we were hoping to make the early ferry crossing across the Mitchell Fjord, programmed to leave at 12:00. The ferry is obligatory if you want to reach the other side and keep going south on the Carretera Austral. We arrived with 40 minutes to spare, and took the opportunity to share a piece of nalca pie at the tiny café by the dock. The chef, Señora Marta Inés and her husband, Francis Velásquez, owners of El Peregrino, were more than happy to share a few stories while we waited, explaining why the ferry was named after Father Antonio Ronchi. I had heard about him on previous trips, but had no idea he had made it all the way down to this area. Turns out that this was one of the main areas for his work, and that in tiny Puerto Yungay, he had built a chapel, a turbine and four houses. We walked over to see them before boarding the ferry for the 40-minute ride across the peaceful fjord.

We reached Villa O’Higgins around 15:00, the southernmost village at the end of the Carretera Austral. The road finally reached O’Higgins in 1999, and I want to officially thank the workers who suffered the harsh Patagonian conditions for decades to provide me with access to this incredible place, because the environment is amazing. Within a couple of hours from this tiny town, there are glaciers, rivers, an enormous lake, forests, huemules, condors and a thousand other things, just waiting to be discovered. We settled in at the Entre Patagones Cabanas (www.entrepatagones.cl), made a late lunch and walked into town to the Robinson Crusoe - Deep Patagonia Lodge (www.robinsoncrusoe.com), to confirm our tour to the O’Higgins Glacier in the Southern Patagonia Ice Fields. Then we headed over to the Plaza of Arms and the Patagonia Museum, with exhibits relating to the history of the area and the work of Father Antonio Ronchi.

I bought a book about Ronchi and we headed back to the cabin to relax a while before dinner at the Entre Patagones Restaurant - another awesome day in Aysén!

Day 12: Trail to the Mosco River Glacier Yesterday we were in the truck most of the day, so it was time to break out the trekking poles and stretch our legs. We left at about 10:00 am heading to the Mosco River Glacier.

The trail was challenging and we were glad we had opted to go with a local guide, Hans Silva, of Villa O’Higgins Expediciones (www.villaohiggins.com), because we’re not sure we would have found the trail without his directions. The first and second sections were no problem; the trail began 100 meters from the Plaza and led up through two wooden overlooks. Then it leveled off for a while and we started crossing back and forth over rivers; first the Claro and then the Mosco. The last part was the most technical, but man, was it worth it! The scenery at the top is amazing. You can see the glacier and snow-capped mountains all around.

The descent was harder than the way up for me, because I had developed a couple of blisters, so it was a torture each step (my fault for not bringing extra shoes and then having to cross the rivers and walk with wet feet). When we arrived back at the cabana, Andy made dinner, I soaked by feet and then we sat outside for a while and gazed at the stars, before calling it a day.

Day 13: The glorious O’Higgins Glacier

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We left the cabana at 7:45, headed for the end of the Carretera Austral and the port of Bahia Bahamondes, where we boarded la Quetru, a ship for 70 passengers. (Yep. We took a couple “selfie” in front of the sign for the Carretera Austral). We were happy to learn that the first major hurdle of the trip had already been overcome: the day was perfect for sailing. We had been warned, “Sometimes there’s no wind in Villa O’Higgins, but in the middle of the lake there are 4 meter waves and 50 knot winds (92 km/h) “. Thus, trips are frequently canceled or postponed, but today the winds were quiet so once again, we were in luck. The scenery was perfect, perhaps some of the most impressive we’ve seen in the whole region. A cloudless sky, huge mountains on all sides and the intense green of the lake, a product of the sediments that embody the glaciers of the Southern Patagonia Ice Fields.

We navigated almost 3 hours to Candelario Mancilla, where we made a stop and dropped off several passengers who were heading to El Chaltén, in Argentina. There are no roads in this sector, so passengers cross the border on foot. Maybe next time! It was another two hours of sailing to the glacier.

There were lots of icebergs on the way and then we began to approach the giant glacier wall. The boat got us really close to the ice, just a couple of meters away, and I have to confess, I had already seen several glaciers and I thought that I had pretty much seen it all, but in truth I found that this one was the most beautiful of all. It offered the perfect combination of clean ice (no stones), mountains in the background and the

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lake, with its incredible turquoise color. We stayed in front of the glacier about an hour and they served a highball of top-shelf Chilean pisco, with ice that had broken off of one of the icebergs, and was floating nearby - 100,000s of thousands of years old! Then we began the journey back to Villa O’Higgins, stopping again in Candelario Mancilla; this time to pick up hikers and bikers on their way to Chile. I don’t know if I was exhausted from all the activity of the trip, or relaxed by the movement of the boat and the beautiful landscape, but I slept like an angel all the way back.

Day 14: Chao Villa O’Higgins! Hola Chacabuco Valley!

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It was time to begin the return trip to the north and instead of doing the whole trip through Chile, we had planned our return trip so that we could take advantage of being so close, and visit the Parque Patagonia project being developed by Conservación Patagónica (www.conservacionpatagonica.org), in the Chacabuco Valley, outside of Cochrane. You can drive the entire valley, following Route X-83 and cross the border at the Roballos crossing, and then drive up to Balmaceda along Route 40 in Argentina and re-enter at the Huemules crossing. (NOTE: If you plan to do the same, be sure to request international insurance and a power of attorney when you reserve your rental car – if not, they will turn you back at the border!!!) We took the ferry toward Puerto Yungay at 11:00 and we arrived in Cochrane at 14:20, in time for lunch. This time we went to the Ñirrantal Restaurant, (09) 78782621, one block south of the Plaza. I recommend the bistec a lo pobre, a favorite in Patagonia, which is a steak covered with French fries, sautéed onions and a fried egg. After lunch, we made our way to the Valley. From Cochrane, we traveled 17 km north to Route X-83, on the right. The first section of the road (around the crossing), is a bit of a shock; in April of 2011 there was a forest fire in this area that damaged more than 3,000 hectares of land; however, luckily, both Parque Patagonia and Tamango National Reserve had relatively little damage, and mainly in the grasslands rather than the native forests nearby. Once we passed the first section, the change of scenery blew us away - beautiful meadows full of guanacos and their babies (chulengos); the first I had ever seen. They are precious! After approximately 11 km, we reached the Conservación Patagónica facilities and the Parque Patagonia Restaurant, Visitor Center and the Lodge.

The Chacabuco Valley operated as one of the largest sheep estancias in the Region for around 100 years and like many lands in Patagonia, the over exploitation of the ecosystem left the land in REALLY bad shape. Conservación Patagónica purchased the land, sold off the great majority of the animals and have been working for years (along with thousands of volunteers), to restore the lands, bring back native animal populations and, eventually, donate the lands to the State for the creation of a giant new national park.

The new park would join the bordering Tamango National Reserve to the south, (where we saw the huemules), and the Jeinimeni National Reserve, which borders their land

to the north. They have made several hiking trails, camping areas, a gourmet restaurant and an incredible lodge. Our initial idea had been to camp, but in the administration area they told us that there was a room available in the lodge, so we rationalized the situation and (of course), decided to spend the last night of our honeymoon adventure in comfort and luxury. We hiked for a few hours in the afternoon and lucked into the opportunity to meet and talk with Cristian Saucedo, who is responsible for wildlife studies in the Park. He told us about his research and conservation efforts relating to pumas, huemules, foxes, and guanacos. Super interesting. After a delicious dinner in the restaurant, we retired to the splendor of our room to organize our luggage and get ready for an early morning the next day. The lodge was over-the-top!

Day 15: Route 40 and flights to Santiago to celebrate New Year’s Eve! We started our final leg of the Aysén portion of our journey at 6:30 am, heading out across the Chacabuco Valley, in route for the Roballos Border Crossing and Argentina’s Route 40. We didn’t run into any other cars along the way, but man, did we see a lot of animals – foxes, hares, guanacos, flamingos, swans, condors, armadillos and even a band of ñandú (in the ostrich family). It’s an amazing project and in my opinion, the founders, Doug and Kris Tompkins, are Chile’s equivalent of John Muir in the U.S. We crossed the borders without problems and on the Argentinian side we immediately noticed the difference in climate and land management; the landscape became increasingly arid until we entered the eterrrrrrrrrnal Patagonian steppe and we began to see thousands of fences, sheep and invasive Sauce trees. After a few more hours, we intersected with Route 40 and turned north to finish the route toward Balmaceda. We made it back with just enough time to make our 17:30 flight to Santiago, where we had a hotel room waiting and plans to spend New Year’s Eve with some Chilean friends. Our farewell to Aysén had been a little abrupt, but the trip could not have been more perfect, and I know that we both are already dreaming about the next time we will be able to find the time (and the money) to visit this amazing corner of the world.

TRAVEL BLOG 373

EXPLORE THE GAUCHOS’ ROUTE TO THE NEF GLACIER

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Come face to face with the Nef Glacier, part of the Northern Patagonia Ice Fields, during this threeday trip that combines navigation, hiking, horse trekking and camping at an old gaucho outpost, complete with a traditional rustic shelter.

This explorer’s route to the Nef glacier begins with an hour and a half boat trip across the Bertrand and Plomo lakes. You’ll disembark at the entrance of the Soler Valley and walk a few meters to a pioneer-era farm where horses and gauchos will be waiting to ride through some of the most amazing landscapes of Patagonia, on the way to the Northern Patagonia Ice Fields. It’s an intense six hour ride from the head of the valley to the Palomar Ranch, an old gaucho outpost situated in the middle of amazing solitude and nature. You’ll ride through beautiful forests, wide open valley floors and grasslands, crossing rivers that originate in the ice.

Trust in your guides and your horses; they’ve grown up in these wild lands and are used to the challenges of this trail. Follow their lead and allow yourself to get immersed in the imposing peaks of the mountains that surround you, and the edge of the forests where the acute observer is often rewarded with views of a soaring condor and even a timid huemul. At the end of the day you’ll reach the Palomar Ranch, where you’ll camp for the night, and enjoy a campfire dinner in a classic gaucho outpost, complete with “canogas”, a traditional pioneer technique that involved hand hollowed logs that were been split lengthwise and overlaid to form a rustic roof.

The second day of your adventure begins with some good mates and an energizing breakfast, followed by a two hour hike through the Patagonian forests and the moraine leading up to the imposing Nef Glacier. The first section of the hike follows a gaucho trail within a mature lenga forest that surrounds you with silence broken only by songbirds, or if you are truly lucky, a huemul.

Then, you’ll enter a marshland and begin a 200 meter ascent up the moraine that will deposit you in front of a magical world of ice and water in a million shades of blue. It’s the northern edge of the Nef Glacier, and after a brief walk further across the moraine, you’ll

reach the ice, where you will have the opportunity for a brief but unforgettable walk atop this giant 164 km2 glacier.

Ready to put things in perspective? In spite of the fact that the Nef glacier is a giant, it only represents 4% of the total mass of the Northern Patagonia Ice Fields, which are an incredible 4200 km2. And if that’s not enough to impress you, consider this: the mass of the Southern Patagonia Ice Field totals four times that of its northern neighbor, 16,800 km²! Amazing, huh? Enjoy your time on the ice and a light lunch, before your return to the Palomar Camp for a hearty dinner and a good night’s sleep. On day three you’ll retrace your trail back to the Sierra family farm on the shores of Plomo Lake where you’ll have the opportunity to rest and share a few mates before meeting the boat for the return

OVERVIEW

»»Activity

Type: Guided expedition up to the Nef Glacier that includes horseback riding, hiking and navigation.

round trip

80 km,

»»Duration: 3 days / 2 nights »»Seasonality: October to April »»Special Considerations: No experi-

ence required but you should consider that the nature of this route requires that participants are in good health and physical condition. Suitable for children 14 years and older, with permission from their parents.

Another option for getting to the Glacier is to cross the Nef Valley and access the ice from the southern frontal wall.

The experience is equally memorable, this time crossing the Valley that shares its name with the Glacier. Head to the Tres Marías Ranch to meet your guide, Don Aquilino Olivares, and prepare yourself for a different form of adventure because in this route, you cross the mighty Baker River rowing in a wooden boat. Once on the other side, you’ll mount horses to ride to the high mountain lagoon where you can observe the frontal wall of the glacier and an amazing landscape where the eternal ices flow down from the mountains, high above.

»»Reservations:

This route requires planning and advance coordination and preparation of the horses so you should make your reservation at least 15 days prior to travel. Operators include:

»»Hector Soto – Waterfront s/n, Puerto Bertrand; (09) 87432622; hectorbertrand@yahoo.es.

»»Aquilino

Olivares - Tres Marías Ranch, Puerto Bertrand; Reserve through the Casa del Turismo Rural (House of Rural Tourism), located in the Tourist Information Kiosk in the corner of Coyhaique’s Plaza of Arms; (067) 2524929; www.casaturismorural.cl.

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»»Start: Puerto Bertrand »»End: Puerto Bertrand »»Distance: Approximately

journey to Puerto Bertrand.

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RAFT THE INCREDIBLE BAKER RIVER IN PUERTO BERTRAND

Enjoy the charm of Puerto Bertrand, the village that hosts the headwaters for the beautiful and powerful Baker River. Puerto Bertrand is your basecamp for all things Baker so pick your passion; rafting, fishing, or kayaking, and head this way.

Bertrand Lake is fed by the waters of Chile’s largest lake, the General, and returns the favor by giving life to the Baker River, the most powerful river of the country. At the meeting of these two giants of Aysén, there is a small, quiet town, almost completely protected from the stormy winds that descend from the Northern Patagonia Ice Fields. Puerto Bertrand’s charm and location have produced a small, close-knit collection of great cabanas, fishing lodges, restaurants and outfitters, who provide excellent opportunities for all kinds of excursions and expeditions in the sector.

The town of Puerto Bertrand is home for a little more than a hundred people. Some are Patagones and the rest are relative newcomers who, quite rightly, have fallen in love with this small and secluded place. What attracts them? In part it’s the peace that comes from living among the native forests and crystal-clear waters of Lake Bertrand, but above all, it’s the pride that comes from living so close to the Baker River, with its unique turquoise waters, powerful flows, and excellent fly-fishing.

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The location of the village makes it a great starting point for excursions and expeditions into the interior valleys and glaciers that descend from the Northern Patagonia Ice Fields. Whether you prefer hiking, horse treks, adventures on the ice, or kayak expeditions, Bertrand is your place to start.

While in Bertrand, explore and discover its hidden gems.

There are several local artisans who offer traditional crafts, especially hand-woven textiles, and if you’re here during the third week of March, you can be part of a lively festival that attracts people from across the region to celebrate the anniversary of the pueblo; dancing the “chámame”, a Patagonian classic,

and other popular dances like the ranchera and the cumbia. During the celebration, the town sponsors one of the oldest and most important fishing tournaments of the region, attracting fly-fishing fanatics from all over the world.

Living in Bertrand and exploring the sector’s forests, rivers, and lakes, provides local guides with the knowledge and expertise they need to share this amazing place with visitors, and a special sensitivity for their natural environment that is contagious. With luck, you will have the opportunity to have local guides leading your excursions; and if you do, listen attentively and absorb their wisdom; perhaps your experience in Patagonia will turn out to be much more than a simple trip.

sport, rafting, is our proposal for this adventure. Rafting provides the unique perspective of being in close contact with the river and feeling part of the movement of the waters.

This seven kilometer decent begins at the headwaters in Puerto Bertrand. After the guides from Baker Patagonia Adventure (BPA) provide you with safety gear and instructions, you’ll load up your rafts for the fun. BPA provides neoprene wet-suits and booties to protect you from the glacial cold waters (12 °C in summer), life jackets, waterproof wind jackets, helmets and, of course, your oars, because in this rafting, you’re much more than a mere passenger.

Once on the raft the excitement begin immediately; a short 400 m into the trip, you’ll

Rafting in the Baker As we mentioned earlier, the Baker River begins in the southern end of Bertrand Lake and transports a tremendous freshwater flow from the Northern Patagonia Ice Fields to the Fjords in Tortel. Its color is one-ofa-kind, thanks to the glacial sediments that provide the intensity of its turquoise and (depending on the section), a clarity or cloudiness that is equally intense. The recognition of this river as “the most powerful in Chile” makes it sound pretty intimidating; however, several of its sections are perfectly apt for kayaking, fishing and rafting. And this last

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be challenged with the first rapid, which is categorized as 3 - 3+ during the summer and called “El Potro”, (the colt) because you’ll be thrown around like a rodeo rider on a wild horse. A little further down you’ll confront the “Reservada”, (reserved) rapid named for those colts that are reserved for only the best riders. The large waves in this section will make your five meter long raft seem little more than a tiny leaf being playfully tossed along in the water.

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After the wild ride of the rapids, you’ll reach a calm stretch that provides you with the opportunity to float for a while and observe the colors of the landscape and the incredible ecosystem of the Baker’s basin. If you’ve worked up a thirst, dip your hand in the water and drink up; this is a good opportunity to enjoy the clean waters of the River, some of the purest in the world. If you dare, you can even take a swim alongside the raft.

The trip ends on a beach, where the BPA support team will be waiting for you with dry clothes and a snack. Don’t forget to take a few photos with your travel companions so you can show off the incredible accomplishment of rafting the waters of the Baker, one of the most respected and admired Rivers of Patagonia.

OVERVIEW »»Activity Type: Intermediate

level rafting in class 3 and 3+ rapids (in the summer). In the seven km course, there are large surface waves and holes generated by the current but no rocks.

»»Start: Puerto Bertrand »»End: Puerto Bertrand »»Distance: 7 km descent the Baker River.

»»Duration: hours.

Approximately 2 1/2

»»Seasonality: Three daily runs during the season of October – April: 10:00, 14:00 and 17:00.

»»Special Considerations: Suitable for

children 14+ and older with permission from their parents.

»»Reservations: You can book direct-

ly with Baker Patagonia Adventure (BPA), by email contacto@bakerpatagonia.com, through their web site www.bakerpatagonia.com, or in person at the office located by the waterfront of Puerto Bertrand.

You can also coordinate your reservations with the Casa del Turismo Rural (House of the Rural Tourism), located in Coyhaique the tourist information kiosk alongside of the Plaza de Arms; (067) 2524929; www.casaturismorural.cl.

CROSS THE BAKER TO FOLLOW THE “ROAD LESS TRAVELED”

There are several alternatives for getting from Puerto Bertrand to Cochrane. We suggest opting for the “road less traveled” that provides you with a great introduction to the culture and heritage of the Baker River basin. You’ll cross the river twice via bridges and ferry, in the same way as local residents, and have the opportunity to visit the Museum of the Pioneers where you can learn about the settlers’ ways of life.

There is more than one route between Puerto Bertrand and Cochrane and our choice winds alongside the incredible Baker River, crossing its waters twice and giving you an up close feel for this amazing landscape and ecosystem. This 52 km route is a great alternative for 4 x 4 vehicles or bikers, allowing you to leave the beaten path and discover the local culture of the Baker.

Heading south from Puerto Bertrand, you’ll definitely want to make a stop at the confluence of the Baker and Nef Rivers, (Km 12), where you can park your car and walk a short trail to see the “explosion” of colors and rapids of the Baker, falling more than 10 meters in a huge waterfall, just before the Nef River joins. It’s fascinating to note the marked contrast between the turquoise wa-

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The Baker River is the second longest and most powerful river in Chile, with a basin that extends 26,726 km2, winding through a unique endemic ecosystem that is an important biological corridor for thousands of species of flora and fauna and home to a small group of settlers who celebrate self-sufficiency and a close connection with the waters flowing from the Northern Patagonia Ice Fields. One of the most unique aspects of this River is the intense turquoise color of its waters. In fact, many visitors tell us that they had assumed the pictures they had seen had been “photo-shopped” until they finally had the opportunity to “see and believe” for themselves. The explanation is simple: the amazing colors of the Baker are the result of glacial sediments deposited from the streams and cascades coming from the Northern Patagonia Ice Fields above.

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Valley and the hills that surround it.

After 3 km you’ll encounter the narrow Manzano Bridge over the Baker and afterwards, begin to climb a bit up short (but steep) grades that wind through the steppe and occasional ñirre forests, recognized as important habitat for native and migratory birds like the thorn-tailed rayadito and the Chilean flicker, which is one of the four woodpeckers of Chile, and endowed with a unique song that resembles its name.

ters of the Baker and the milky waters of the Nef, which form a sharp line at their joining, as if someone had drawn a border to divide them.

Although the falls are not passable, a little later on, to your right, you’ll see the a canyon filled with rapids and fast-moving white water; here, crazy as it might seem, expert and experienced kayakers DO dare to enter.

Eight kilometers further along the Carretera Austral, you’ll find the home of the Rural Museum of the Pioneers of Baker, a project dedicated to rescuing the rural identity of the area. The small museum is housed within the restored administration building of the former Baker Estancia and recreates the decor and conditions of the estancia era.

It’s worth a stop to take a closer look at the tools, clothing, furniture, local handicrafts, maps and historic documents on display in the museum, and learn more about its mission to raise awareness about the culture and traditions of the pioneers who first settled the Baker basin.

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Leaving the museum, you’ll need to pay attention for the detour to the right which is indicated by a sign for the El Manzano Pasarela (bridge). This route takes you over the Baker and along a country road that follows its western shore. You’ll be able to have much closer views of the River and the farms of its basin, as well as the amazing landscapes that accompany the drive. The gravel road can be tough in some places (so can the Carretera Austral, for that matter), but if you take it slow and easy, you’ll do fine AND have time to take in the exceptional landscape, with unique views of the river, the Chacabuco

In this section you drive through a beautiful farm called “La Violeta”, which is teeming with lush native forests, including ñirre, lenga and coigüe and wildlife, including the culpeo fox, eagles, and Andean condors. You’ll quickly become accustomed to traversing the cattle guards placed every few kilometers to allow the passage of cars, but not livestock. It is one of the techniques used by the inhabitants of this area who are, in large part, dedicated to cattle and sheep ranching.

The people living in the Baker River Basin live with the knowledge that their farms and valleys are under the constant threat of flooding, the product of a phenomenon call Glacier Lake Outburst Floods (GLOFs). High above the Baker, summer’s ice melts have repeatedly produced the opening and closing of an 8 kilometer long tunnel under the Colonia Glacier connecting two small glacial lakes (Cachet 1 and 2). Periodically, the water builds up so much pressure that it breaks through the thinning ice walls, flooding as much as 200 million cubic meters of water into the Colonia Lake and River and down into the Baker River below. Once emptied, the ice closes back in and the lake refills; usually within a few days.

via VHF radios installed in each of the local farms.

The Baker can more than double in size during this flooding, cutting roads and damaging farms, leaving residents isolated and at risk. Thus, local residents have been working together with scientists and public agencies to develop a monitoring system that will enable them to prepare for GLOFs. Water-level monitoring stations have been installed on Cachet 2, Colonia Lake, and the Baker River, providing text message warnings to the authorities who pass them on to the public

Around 20 km into your rural drive, you’re in for an entertaining adventure on the Balsa Baker, which will serve to get you back to the eastern side of the river. This is one of the few remaining rural ferries, powered completely by the flow of the current of the river.

It’s an ingenious solution for the transportation of vehicles across the river, historically used in remote areas that could not justify the cost of bridge construction. The “Balsa Baker” is free and operates from 8:30 am to 12:30, in the morning, and 14:00 to 18:00, in the afternoon. It’s a quick trip across; so be sure to take time to notice the fascinating mechanics used to move the ferry forward, especially the gear and pulley system of wires connecting the raft to the main cable. Once you’ve re-crossed the Baker, you’ll ascend for about 3 km up to re-connect with the Carretera Austral, making a right to head into Cochrane, the largest town of the Baker – O’Higgins Area, and the gateway for the southernmost reaches of the Region, including Caleta Tortel and Villa O’Higgins.

OVERVIEW

»»Start: Puerto Bertrand or Cochrane »»End: Cochrane or Puerto Bertrand »»Distance: 52 km »»Duration: 3 - 5 hours, including a visit

to the Rural Museum of the Pioneers of Baker.

»»Seasonality: »»Special

Considerations: The route is well maintained most of the time.

There are only two side roads that intersect with the main route; the first leads to the El Maitén sector and joins the main route after crossing the El Manzano Bridge; the other is just before you reach the Balsa Baker crossing and leads to Colonia River sector. Drive with caution, using first and second gear and 4x4 when need-

»»Reservations:

Self-guided activity; reservations are not required. However, it is important to consider the ferry schedules and coordinate a visit to the Rural Museum of the Pioneers of Baker in advance, as they do not always maintain regular hours.

For more information, you can contact the Municipality of Cochrane and their tourist offices: turismo@ cochranepatagonia.cl. You can contact the Rural Museum of the Pioneers of Baker by email: contacto@ fundacionriobaker.cl; or via their website: www.fundacionriobaker. cl/?page=museum.

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Year round, depending on weather and road/ferry conditions.

ed, especially on the steeper grades.

There are no services along this route, so bring a snack, plenty of gas and the supplies you’ll need should you have a flat tire or other mechanical problem.

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CONNECT WITH THE BAKER’S FORCE AND BEAUTY AT THE CONFLUENCE

The Aysén Region has the highest density of rivers and lakes in Chile and some of the most pristine waters on the planet. You’ll be treated to incredible landscapes throughout your time in the region, and many, if not most, will feature water. Nevertheless, one of the greatest places for admiring the beautiful colors and power of these waters is the confluence of the Baker and Nef Rivers.

Scientists indicate that the rivers and lakes of Chilean Patagonia are not only a globally important reserve of freshwater; they are one of the most complex and least altered environmental systems on the planet. Without a doubt, the Baker River embodies the essence of these qualities and in recent years, has become one of the most emblematic rivers of Patagonia and of course, Chile. Ayséninos are EXTREMELY passionate about this River; it is the most powerful of Chile’s rivers with an average flow of 1,100 m3/s); it is one of the most pure of Chile’s watersheds, receiving its waters from General Carrera Lake and the tributaries of the Northern Patagonia Ice Fields. Also, thanks to an abundance of glacial sediments, it is a river of spectacular and undeniable beauty. In the sector of the confluence you’ll be able to see this power in all its’ splendor.

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To visit, head 12 km south of Puerto Bertrand along the Carretera Austral, in the direction of Cochrane. During the short drive, you will be accompanied by the river itself, joining you from time to time to remind you of the indescribable turquoise color of its waters. There are several observation points along the way, beginning in the first kilometer, where you can walk down to the shore and observe the rapids, known locally as “El Potro”. These waters are popular amongst white water rafters who enjoy the ride of the first seven kilometers of the river, three or four times a day, during the summer. Also in this sector, you’ll find various fly-fishing lodges and cafes, where you can stop for a snack and be treated to fantastic views or organize an outing to try your luck and skill.

In Km 12 you will see a wooden sign marking

TRAVELERS’ TIPS Turismo Konaiken, located beside the Austral Road, Km. 300, is a great place to enjoy a delicious coffee and dessert, before or after your visit. Contact: turismo_konaiken@yahoo.es. the entry for the sector of the confluence.

Here you’ll park your car and walk a short trail (800 m), surrounded by ñirre forests, which are especially popular with the Chilean flicker and the striped woodpecker. As the trail progresses you will begin to hear the roaring sound of water becoming closer and closer with each step. Follow the sound (and the trail), which leads to some large boulders that form the riverbank and allow you to truly appreciate the grand spectacle of water that surrounds you. To your right, you will encounter an incredible waterfall that surprises you; not for its height (approximately 10 m), but for its tremendous breadth and the strength of the water that pours down toward the confluence, a few meters further, with the waters of the Nef.

The confluence has been the emblem for the controversy surrounding the Baker River in recent years, a controversy which surrounds the best and most sustainable use of its’ waters and of the waters of many rivers

»»Activity

Type: Short, self-guided trail to an overlook of the Confluence of the Baker and Nef Rivers.

»»Start: Puerto Bertrand »»End: Puerto Bertrand »»Distance: The trail-head

is 12 km south of Bertrand and the wellmarked trail is approximately 800 m.

»»Duration: 1 hours 30 minutes, departing from Puerto Bertrand

»»Seasonality: Year Round »»Special Considerations: The trail is

flat and well-marked; however the rocks in the area of the confluence can be slippery so proceed with caution.

»»Reservations: needed.

No

reservations

throughout Patagonia. This river, along with others, like the Pasqua River further south, have been proposed as sites for large hydroelectric power projects that involve damming, construction of plants, and transportation of electricity via high-tension power lines, to other regions throughout Chile, and especially in the metropolitan areas. The projects are halted for the time being, but discussion and controversy continues.

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Notice that the crystal clear turquoise waters characteristic of the first 12 kilometers of the Baker River take on a more milky tone after the confluence with the Nef. These periodic and pronounced changes in color are characteristic of several of the sections of this river and are the product of the distinct sediments that the river receives from the specific glaciers and geologic formations above in the Northern Patagonia Ice Fields.

OVERVIEW

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HIKE THE TRAILS OF THE CHACABUCO VALLEY

The history of the Chacabuco Valley has intertwined nature and human for millenniums. First, hunter-gatherer tribes roamed the area in search of food and refuge. Later, ranching consumed almost the entire length of the valley with an enormous Estancia spreading across 70,000 hectares!

Today, a new chapter is being written and the protagonists of this story are conservation and sustainable tourism.

As you look out over the expansive landscapes of the Chacabuco Valley, imagine a time, thousands of years ago, when primitive peoples roamed these immense Patagonian grasslands looking for shelter and food. These nomadic hunter-gatherers left us clues about their movements and habits, including cave paintings under rocky eaves where they were protected from the cold and wind. There have been more than 300 archaeological sites identified so far in this valley!

Centuries passed until in 1915, a man named Lucas Bridges moved thousands of sheep into the Valley from the Argentina steppe, establishing “Estancia Valle Chacabuco”, which soon became one of the largest sheep ranches in Chile. During most of the twentieth century, ranching was the dominant activity in the Chacabuco Valley. Like most large ranchers of his generation, Bridges was armed with great determination, but little ecological awareness; his actions left devastating impacts on the local environment, the scope of which are only now being understood.

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To protect the Estancia’s investments (30,000+ sheep), employees hunted the native puma that frequently preyed on flocks.

Hunting eventually put this animal in danger of extinction. To keep their livestock contained and organized, they constructed an elaborate maze of fencing, using more than 6,000 strands of wire. Unfortunately, this maze was a significant hurdle for native species like huemul and guanaco, which thrived on free range. Encroachment forced native fauna into ever smaller areas, pressuring their populations. Stresses were further accentuated by hunting and the dogs that

worked the ranch.

Then, when increasing wool production in Australia began to lower international prices for wool, Patagonia ranching became increasingly less profitable. Strategies for recovering losses were based on the accumulation of yet more sheep; thus, improving the efficiency of the lands in producing wool. Unfortunately, this practice resulted in overgrazing and further degradation of the soils and ecosystems. By the late 1990s, the Estancia was no longer a viable proposition.

In 2004, a new legacy began for the Chacabuco Valley.

Conservación Patagónica, an international non-profit conservation organization, purchased the Valley Chacabuco Estancia with the vision of restoring these lands to their natural state. They gradually sold off the livestock and began to tear down the fences, restore the soils, native plants and wildlife.

Their vision is to eventually link the Cha-

cabuco Valley with two adjoining National Reserves, Tamango and Jeinimeni, so that together, these three Protected Areas can form one enormous Patagonia National Park. To support this vision, they are creating critical park infrastructure, including camping areas, a restaurant, lodges, and hiking trails.

Hiking Trails

The Cemetery Circuit is a beautiful and easy six kilometer, two hour walk. This route begins at the Conservación Patagónica Visitor Center where you can get information about the project and learn about their sustainable constructions. During the walk you’ll pass the Estancia’s original cemetery, which commemorates the era in which the Estancia functioned as a small town. The trail continues to the Westwinds Camping Area, which has space for up to 60 tents, showers with hot water, and cooking sites. From the

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Conservación Patagónica has completed three official hiking routes, which provide visitors the opportunity to experience a variety of areas within Patagonia Park. Hiking off-trail is also permitted. Check-in with the Administration team to share your plans and obtain permission. The landscape of the Valley includes vast expanses of Patagonian Grasslands, magnificent Austral Steppe, dense beech forests and high Andean peaks.

There are countless rivers and streams, wetlands, lagoons and lakes. Bird life abounds in the valley and the varied natural features offer a safe haven for a vast diversity of fauna, ranging from the nearly extinct huemul, a prolific guanaco population, puma, fox, and all kinds of smaller creatures including the viscacha and the large four-eyed frog.

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campsite the trail follows the road along the base of cerro Tamanguito, returning you to the Visitor Center.

Another great option is the hike to Laguna Cisnes. It’s a great seven kilometer hike that will take around 2 - 3 hours and provide you with the opportunity to view lots of native fauna and bird life. From the Visitor Center, follow the main road, passing along the airstrip. After crossing the field, the road starts to climb slightly and on the left side, you will see a low rock wall. As you climb, the road passes through wetlands and lagoons until you reach a small unnamed lagoon. From the shores of this lagoon, you’ll have a great view of the Cisnes Lagoon, where you can always spot birds. We recommend you bring along binoculars, a field guide and patience! On the way back, you’ll pass the area where the lagoon drains into a brook, and follow alongside for a while, before heading across the grassy field, to the Visitor Center.

If you’re looking for a challenge, try the 23 kilometer trail to the Lagunas Altas sector.

You’ll be rewarded with the best panoramic views of the valley. The route climbs the northern slope of the Cerro Tamanguito,

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passes between lagoons, wetlands, prairies, forests and huge blocks of rock, and then descends back down to the road between the Westwinds Camping Area and the Visitor Center. Keep alert because the chances are good for encountering guanacos, huemules and condors. You can download a detailed map and trail description for this hike at: www.conservacionpatagonica.org

OVERVIEW

»»Activity Type: Hiking. »»Start: Conservación Patagónica Visitor Center

»»End: Conservación Patagónica Visitor Center

»»Distance: 2 to 20 km, depending on the route.

»»Duration: 2 to 8 hours, depending on the route.

»»Seasonality: November - April »»Special Considerations: It is advis-

able to use hiking boots, dress in layers, bring rain and wind gear, sunglasses, sunscreen and a brimmed cap. Carry trekking poles for the most difficult trails. Don’t forget to carry water, a snack and your camera.

»»Reservations:

Self-guided activity, but visitors should check-in with park administration staff, let them know you are hiking, learn about the Conservación Patagónica project, inquire about trail conditions and request a complimentary trail map. Contact: reservas@vallechacabuco.cl; www.conservacionpatagonica.org; Facebook: Parque Patagonia

ADVENTURE & TRADITIONAL GAUCHO CULTURES CONVERGE IN COCHRANE

To understand Cochrane and its people, you need to sift through its history and discover the events that have marked its evolution. Though the lifestyle of people in Cochrane has changed, it proudly maintains close links to its ranching heritage and gaucho customs.

With close to 3,000 inhabitants, Cochrane is the largest town in the Baker - O’Higgins Cultural Area and the best place to find supplies and services in the southern part of the Aysén Region. Cochrane offers access to banking services and an ATM, fuel, pharmacy, hospital, a good supermarket, mechanics, and border control services, among others.

Cochrane’s strategic location amongst parks, reserves and conservation areas makes it a magnet for fans of mountain climbing, kayaking and rock climbing. Each year, the outdoor community grows; new people arrive and locals discover hidden talents and passions. In addition, Cochrane is an excellent place to soak up Patagonian traditions; many locals still maintain gaucho traditions and lifestyles linked to farming and ranching.

Cochrane traces its history to the year 1929, when public records show the petition for the first town plans. It originated in a sector of the Chacabuco Valley called, Las Latas, (The Cans), perhaps a reference to the common custom of paying workers for each sheep sheared, by dropping a coin in a tin can beside their work station. This area was easily accessible for workers and their families, as it was close to the main infrastructure of the Chacabuco Valley Cattle Company,

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Things have radically changed since 1899, when explorer Hans Steffen mapped these valleys for the first time, casually referring to “the area of the (river) Baker”. The Baker has always been an important factor of the area’s landscape and Steffen documented so much more: lakes, rivers, mountain ranges, glaciers, forests and vast grasslands.

Less than a decade later, in 1908, these lands were awarded to the Sociedad Explotadora del Baker, in a concession for livestock production and ranching, transforming the area into an enormous Estancia. Soon, workers began to settle, supporting the needs of the growing operation.

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also located in the Entrada Baker Sector. But, having a town spring up so close to the headquarter area did not suit the shareholders of the company. Company officials negotiated with the government of the time to have the people moved to a valley northeast of Cochrane Lake, beside the river of the same name. Thus, in 1929, when the mayor, Don Marchant, commissioned a layout of plans for the town developing in Las Latas Sector, the surveyor conducted the work at the site he named Pueblo Nuevo instead, located seven kilometers from the shores of Cochrane Lake. Twenty-five years later, on March 17, 1954, the town of Cochrane was officially founded. By this time, residents were well-settled into the Pueblo Nuevo location.

Join us in Cochrane for the region’s original folklore festival!

Cochrane’s history is inextricably linked with ranching and gaucho traditions, and this heritage is an important part of local culture; one that is maintained and celebrated despite the arrival of modern technologies. In fact, locals have found ingenious ways to blend their traditions and heritage with new passions and sports; many are now the guides and experts who will lead tours and expeditions in the amazing mountains and rivers of the area. If you are interested in learning more about gaucho customs, attend one of the traditional festivals celebrated in the city during the year. The Annual Folklore Festival” brings together musicians and music lovers each February. Another option is the “Folkloric Festival of Cochrane”, one of the oldest and important events in the region. During this two day celebration you can enjoy a full program of activities and exhibitions, includ-

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ing sheep shearing, a “sheep-back” rodeo for children, and bucking bronco events for adults. You can try your hand at local games and even attempt the challenge of arming the typical tack of the day atop a pack horse. There are local artists and craftsmen, traditional music and dance, and a delicious variety of local cuisine, including spit-roasted beef and the largest “torta frita” in Patagonia.

Take a walk through Cochrane’s past and present.

This tour is self-guided, beginning at the Cochrane’s Plaza of Arms and ending at the Museum. You can choose your own route, based on your personal interests and the list of interesting places provided below. Download the accompanying Geo-references from the Undiscovered Patagonia Website, to build your own map.

uuThe

Plaza of Arms: The recently renovated Plaza of Arms is located in Cochrane’s center and around it, you’ll find the city’s main services. Don’t forget to visit the Tourist Information Center for maps and brochures.

uuLord Cochrane Southern High School:

In 1931, the legendary rancher Lucas Bridges built Cochrane’s first school, fulfilling his word to the inhabitants of the area. The creation of the Lord Cochrane Southern High School in 1984 represented a significant step forward for education, and a cultural awakening in the area. Located between Las Golondrinas and Esmeralda streets, it is considered one of the most prestigious educational establishments in the

region.

uuCochrane’s

Post Office: Historically, courier services delivered mail to Cochrane by horse, traveling through the treacherous, Lioness Canyon, which separated Cochrane from Chile Chico.

Today, you will find Cochrane’s post office, Correos de Chile, on Esmeralda Street, N° 199.

uuOffices of the Municipal Government:

At the time of its founding in 1954, the town of Cochrane had ten houses. On October 26, 1970, the town of Cochrane, which had formerly pertained to the Department of Chile Chico, became a Department of its own. Its first Governor was Don Esteban Ramírez Sepúlveda. Shortly thereafter, in 1974, the Region of Aysén was established, along with four Provinces; one of which was the Province of Capitán Prat, also known as the Province of the Glaciers (Facebook: Provincia de los Glaciares).

The establishment of this Province rep-

resents an important milestone in the realization of residents’ dreams to be able to access public services and government institutions within their local community. Today you will find the offices of the Municipality on Esmeralda Street, N°398, at the corner with Dr. Steffen.

uuCochrane’s

Hospital: The earliest health care services in this zone were informally supplied by “Meicas”, elderly women who would travel the long distances between ranches to help ailing settlers. Thus, the creation of the Cochrane Hospital was another important chapter in the development of the city of Cochrane. This facility replaced the old Rural Health Post in 1979, providing citizens of the Province with much better access to modern health care services. Today, the hospital, located at Av. Bernardo O’Higgins N° 755, is equipped with four general medics who care for patients from the towns of Caleta Tortel, Villa O’Higgins, Puerto

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Bertrand, and surrounding areas. This hospital provides general and emergency care, minor surgeries, antibiotics and medications.

uuThe

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ECA (Agricultural Commerce Stores) of Cochrane: Early residents of Cochrane ate diets consisting mostly of beans, potatoes, pasta, rice, tea and yerba mate. At times settlers also had access to meat, eggs, milk, fruits, vegetables and fish; however, surveys conducted in the region in 1938, revealed that rural families in Chile faced grand difficulties related to nutrition. Almost 3/4 of the families in Chile were living in conditions where they did not receive adequate levels of nourishment. A number of government programs were implemented in Chile in response to these findings. One of these programs involved the development of a network of Rural Grocery-General Stores, subsidized and supported by the state as part of a strategy to establish a reliable and affordable supply of food and basic goods in remote areas. The Commercial outlets had various names through the years. If you have the opportunity to talk with an old-timer in Cochrane, you’ll find that they remember the INACO store (National Institute of Commerce). Almost all residents will remember the next name of these stores, the ECA (Agricultural Commerce Stores). The current name for these stores is EMAZA, which stands for Supply Stores for Isolated Zones; however, for Cochraninos, the store remains known as the Almacén ECA, and

is a local institution. You can visit the ECA at Río Colonia N°85.

uuThe

Museum of Cochrane: This local museum, located at Calle San Valentín N°555, next to the Cultural Center, contains two permanent exhibits. The first relates to the geomorphology of the area, the natural environment, flora and fauna, local economic activities and the evolution of the population. The second exhibit focuses on the history of human occupation of the area, with a dual focus on the indigenous history of the Tehuelche, or Aoniken, pre-Columbian hunter-gatherers, and the history of modern colonization.

OVERVIEW

»»Activity Type: Self-guided city walk. »»Start: Cochrane. »»End: Cochrane. »»Distance: approximately 2 km, depending on the chosen route.

»»Duration:

Approximately 1 hours 30 minutes.

»»Seasonality: Year Round. »»Special Considerations: The major-

ity of shops in town close during lunch, between 13:00 - 16:00.

»»Reservations:

Self-guided activity; no reservations needed.

GET YOUR CAMERA READY! YOU’RE IN THE LAND OF THE HUEMULES

The Tamango National Reserve is one of the icons of the Aysén Region.

Great hiking trails, an excellent river for kayak or fishing, a crystal clear lake, and important habitat for a beautiful native deer in danger of extinction, await you in this protected area just minutes from Cochrane.

The huemul is Chile’s most famous and wellknown deer, even though the majority of Chileans have only seen one in photos or on the country’s national shield. You won’t see them in a zoo because they are very fragile creatures that do not survive in captivity. In fact, practically the only possibility for observing this shy creature is to venture to Patagonia. Once you arrive it’s still a challenge; you’ll need to have patience, know how to choose the right place, and be graced with a bit of good luck.

The 6,925 hectares of the Tamango National Reserve, located six kilometers from Cochrane, are estimated to be the home for approximately 40 huemules, one of the largest concentrations of huemules in all of Patagonia. It’s a big area and a small number so there’s no guarantee that you’ll see them, but the Reserve is a beautiful place to explore and you MIGHT be graced with the luck of a sighting. You can enjoy a variety of activities during your visit, including boating and sport fishing in the Cochrane River and Lake, and exploring the trails of Cerros Tamango, Tamanguito and Húngaro.

How do I recognize them?

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The Huemul, or South Andean Deer, (hippocamelus bisulcus), is a mammal of the family Cervidae. It has a stocky build and short legs. Bucks can reach 165 cm in length, while does are a little smaller. Their thick and dense coat is beige or dark-brown, depending on the season. Their ears and tail are from 4 to 8 cm in length. The bucks have forked antlers that can reach 30 cm in length. They weigh between 40 and 100 Kg. The huemul is an herbivorous animal which feeds on bushes, grasses and tree sprouts, as well as the lichen found on rocks in mountainous areas. During much of the year, the male huemul ranges

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NOTE Lives at the limit

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In Chile, the range of the huemul once stretched from Santiago to the Straits of Magellan, but, today it is only found in the Aysén Region, and to a lesser extent, in the Regions of Los Lagos and Magallanes. There is a long-standing relationship between huemules and humans, evidenced by Tehuelche Petroglyphs and the discovery of various hunter-gatherer tools crafted from bones and antlers. Archaeologists now believe that huemules were important in the diet of early Patagonian hunter-gatherer groups, including the Tehuelche, Ona, and Aónikenk, who also used bones, antlers and skins to make utensils, jewelry, clothing and shelter.

The problems between huemules and humans began during the time of colonization. With the use of guns and dogs in hunting, huemules became easy targets. The expansion of ranching, fencing, and especially, the use of fire to clear fields, resulted in less and less natural habitat. To make matters worse, in the early twentieth century, red deer were introduced in some areas, producing further stress within an ever-de-

creasing territorial space. The red deer were more aggressive and territorial; thus, the habitat of the huemul was reduced further, to small and hidden spaces in the Andes Mountains. Today, the huemul is a protected, endangered species. Hunting, trapping, enclosing, possession, transportation and marketing, are all prohibited by law and treaty in Chile, Argentina, and the rest of the world.

The Tamango National Reserve plays a critical role in the protection of remaining habitat and is home to one of the larger remaining populations. In the Visitor Reception Office, you can find more information about this huemul population and learn about the studies and protective measures being taken by CONAF. It’s important that you join the efforts. Take special care that your presence on the trails and waterways of the Reserve do not interrupt the daily life and habits of the huemul! Remember to limit your interactions to photos, taken at a distance, so that you do not cause stress or shock. Armed with these simple tips you’ll be prepared to enjoy the incredible scenery and special fauna of the Reserve in a responsible and respectful manner.

TRAVELERS’ TIPS

There are a handful of local guides in Cochrane who offer trekking and huemul observation in the Reserve. Some also participate in local research led by Conaf, like the annual census in the Reserve. They can share their experience and knowledge as you hike, helping you to understand the habits of the huemul and the natural history of the area. Contact the Conaf offices in Cochrane for recommendations: Río Nef 417; (067) 2522164; www.conaf.cl/conaf/seccion-conaf-Aysén.html. alone, while the does and their fawns live in small family groups of 2 or 3; however, this depends on the time of year and the mating cycle.

Exploring the Reserve There are hiking trails that follow the river, others that wind up the mountains, and our favorite choice; an excursion that combines boating and hiking, giving you a complete perspective of the diversity in this area. The boat descends the river to Cochrane Lake, taking you through crystal clear, turquoise blue waters, bordered by the native forest of the Reserve, and with a bit of luck, you may see a Huemul or two drinking water along the shore. Have your camera ready!

»»Activity Type: Hiking and/or a boat ride combined with opportunities for Huemul observation.

»»Start: Tamango National Reserve, 6 km from Cochrane

»»End:

Tamango National Reserve, 6 km from Cochrane

»»Distance:

Approximately 5 km by boat with two optional hikes of 3.5 - 11 Km.

»»Duration of the activity: 2 to 8 hours »»Seasonality: October - April »»Special Considerations: We suggest

hiking poles and boots, layered clothing, a waterproof jacket, sunglasses, brimmed hat and sunscreen. Carry water, a snack and your camera.

»»Reservations:

Stop by the Visitors Center to register and pay the entrance fees. These hikes can be self-guided or guided, depending on your preference and budget.

We recommend booking the boat service at least a day in advance; the Conaf park rangers can suggest operators.

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When you pass by the “Las Correntadas” sector, you have several options. The first is to disembark, take a short walk around and then re-board for the return trip. The second option is to return to the Visitor Center area of the reserve along a trail (3.5 km) that follows the banks of the river, providing spectacular views. At times it meanders through the forest winding up and down the rocky terrain, but it is an easy and wellmarked trail. The third alternative is a more intense circuit. You’ll re-board the boat after walking around the rapids of Las Correntadas and continue down-river to the “Playa Paleta” sector of Cochrane Lake. Here, you’ll find camping and a great beach for fishing or enjoying the sun. The hike back is 11 km, with a steep incline in the first section that levels off toward the end.

OVERVIEW

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PAY TRIBUTE TO THE HUEMUL WITH THIS TWO-DAY HIKE & FESTIVAL

Each year, during the last weekend of January, a festival is held to celebrate the huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus) and the critical habitat of Valley Chacabuco and the Tamango and Tamanguito mountains. The main event is a twoday group trek called the “Route of the Huemul”. The hike attracts local, national and international participants who love ecotourism and nature.

Tamango National Reserve is a beautiful protected area of 6,925 hectares, nestled between three mountains, Cerros Tamango (1,722 m), Tamanguito (1,485 m), and Húngaro (1,214 m). Conservación Patagónica’s Patagonia Park, in the Chacabuco Valley, lies on one side of these mountains. Both of these protected areas are committed to the conservation of huemules through the provision of safe, open habitat, and together, their joined territory represents one of the largest habitation ranges remaining in Patagonia.

The Route of the Huemul Festival was created to celebrate and promote understanding of this endangered animal. The event takes place during the last weekend in January and includes a variety of activities; film premiers, lectures, cultural events, great local food and music. The main event of the festival is a two-day, 26 Km trek that travels between Patagonia Park and the Tamango National Reserve.

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You can hike the Route of the Huemul independently during the rest of the year; many of the area’s specialized guides are experts in the route. The trek initiates from Conservación Patagónica’s Patagonia Park Visitor Center, bordering the slopes of the Cerro Tamanguito, to begin its gradual climb up to the Atlas area. You’ll want your camera handy because there is little doubt that you will find herds of guanacos roaming these hills. Next you’ll follow the trail to the Escondida Lagoon where you find yourself immersed in the heart of huemul habitat. If you hope to observe them, hike quietly and keep a close watch because they are shy and very well camouflaged among the shrubs and trees. If you’re lucky enough to encounter a huemul, maintain a respectful distance and demeanor; do not interrupt their daily

TRAVELERS’ TIPS

Each year the hike gains in popularity, gathering together a large number of national and international participants who love ecotourism and outdoor life.

Organizers limit participation so as to respect the ecosystem and local fauna (like the huemul). If you are interested in joining the group, we suggest contacting the Municipality of Cochrane well in advance, by writing to turismo@ cochranepatagonia.cl, to reserve your limited space.

The second day of hiking follows gentle slopes that parallel the Cochrane River, on the way to the Conaf Visitor Reception Center. From this place you can walk toward Cochrane by a gravel road or coordinate the return by taxi or other transportation. If you don’t accommodate the date of the festival, don’t worry! You can also make the trip independently between November and April, when there is no snow in these hills.

life and habits and limit your interactions to photos, taken at a distance, so that you do not cause stress or shock.

The route continues toward Cochrane Lake; on clear days you’ll have great panoramic views of Cerro San Lorenzo and can even spot Argentina! The trail makes a long descent to the Paleta Beach in the Tamango National Reserve where you can camp for the night.

OVERVIEW »»Activity Type: Festival group-hike.

and two-day

»»Start: Patagonia Park in the Chacabuco Valley.

Tamango National Reserve, Conaf Visitor Reception Center.

»»Distance: 26 km (Day 1: 15 Km / Day »»Reservations: You must register in the 2: 11 Km) »»Duration: 2 days (1 night camping) »»Seasonality: The Route of the Hue-

mul Festival takes place during the last weekend of January and this trek can also be hiked independently between November and April.

»»Considerations:

For this two-day, overnight hike, you’ll need camping

Conservación Patagónica’s Patagonia Park Visitor Center and again in the offices of CONAF, in the Tamango National Reserve, where you will pay an entrance fee. To participate in the “Route of the Huemul” group hike, you must reserve your place in advance by writing to turismo@cochranepatagonia.cl.

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»»End:

equipment, layered clothing with warm and waterproof protective layers, trekking boots and poles, first-aid supplies, a GPS and/or detailed map (sections of this hike are outside of established trails), food and water, etc. Don’t forget your camera!

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EXPLORE THE MAJESTIC MOUNT SAN LORENZO MASSIF

When mountaineers set their sights on Patagonia, one of their biggest dreams is reaching the summit of Mount San Lorenzo. The tricky climate of this area makes the climb extremely technical; in fact, you can count the number of expeditions that have reached the top on both hands. Nevertheless, the entire San Lorenzo Sector is filled with interesting hikes and activities, making this mountain and absolute “don’t miss”.

If you have had the opportunity to visit Cochrane, the Chacabuco Valley, the Mayer River sector, or to drive along Route 40 between Bajo Caracoles and El Chaltén, Argentina, you have certainly noticed the immense and imposing massif on the horizon: it’s Mount (or Cerro) San Lorenzo, the second highest mountain in Patagonia, considered one of the most challenging peaks for seasoned mountaineers. It is not uncommon to encounter climbers in the sector’s base camps impatiently waiting for a window of good weather to attempt their climb to the top.

Have you seen the strange flying saucer shaped clouds that often fill Patagonia’s skies?

The San Lorenzo area is known for these types of “lenticular” clouds, which are caused by extremely strong vertical air movement.

They are beautiful to photograph and an important indicator for mountaineers, as they often foreshadow violent high-mountain storms.

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The first summit of Mount San Lorenzo was in 1943, when a group of three mountaineers, led by an Italian Salesian priest, Fr. Alberto de Agostini, reached the summit of the main peak on December 17. His team had been exploring the San Lorenzo sector for three consecutive years, before encountering a feasible route; in the decades since, the list of climbers who have been able to replicate this route remains extremely short.

But for those select few, the prize is big: the privilege reaching this 3,706 meters height rewards a 360° panorama of the infinite Ar-

gentine pampa, the peaks of Mount Fitz Roy, the lush forest of the Chilean territory, and the rivers, glaciers and mountains of the San Lorenzo Range.

Explore your own route in the San Lorenzo Sector.

If you would like to visit the sector and do some hiking or horseback riding, contact Don Luis Soto and his wife, Senora Lucy Gomez, pioneers of the area, who have a wonderful farm and camping area at the foot of San Lorenzo, and a mid-mountain refuge that’s perfect as a basecamp for multi-day hikes. You meet them in Cochrane and drive the 90 minutes route together, which takes you through spectacular landscapes along secondary and farm roads.

to reach this rustic refuge, and we highly recommend the route. Once you arrive and settle into this fully equipped, quaint infrastructure, you probably won’t want to leave and at a minimum, will want to use it as a base from which to explore the surrounding area.

When you finally do come down, we recommend ending your San Lorenzo experience with one of the best asados al palo around; Don Luis, Señora Lucy and their son, Francis are asado pros, their quincho is fantastic, and there’s sure to be dancing with plenty of live accordion and guitar.

When you arrive in the Fundo San Lorenzo, you’ll feel like you have found your very own bit of mountain paradise, completely isolated from the modern world. Here, surrounded by incredible peaks of the southern Andes, Luis and Lucy have built one of the best campgrounds in the Region, with a great quincho where guests can cook, and bathrooms with hot water and a washing machine.

In addition to their main camping area, several years ago Don Luis built a mid-mountain refuge, in the De Agostini Base Camp Sector, which many climbers use during their quest for the summit. It takes a full day of trekking

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From their camp, there are self-guided day hikes in all directions, but everything is “offtrail”, so you need to have maps, GPS, and the experience associated with this type of hiking. For example, there’s a great day hike that climbs the southeast face of Cerro Mirador, ascending approximately 1,000 m, over a distance of 4 kilometers. It is challenging, but the views from the overlook, which include the wide open valleys, enormous glaciers and jetting peaks of the San Lorenzo Range, are breathtaking - be sure to have your camera ready!!! In good weather, your view extends further; to the main peaks of the Northern Ice Field and the wide valleys surrounding Cochrane and the Tamango National Reserve. If you don’t have previous experience with this type of trekking you can contract Luis as your guide; either for hiking or horseback riding in complete gaucho style.

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OVERVIEW

»»Activity Type: Activities include hiking, »»Reservations: high mountain expeditions, horseback riding, camping and asados.

»»Start: Cochrane »»End: Fundo San Lorenzo »»Distance: The Fundo San Lorenzo is located approximately 40 Km from Cochrane.

»»Duration:

We suggest a minimum stay of at least two days, and more if you can!

»»Seasonality: October - April »»Special Considerations: You

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will need to bring camping and cooking equipment as well as the appropriate personal gear for your planned activities. Be prepared for high-mountain weather, with layered clothing, cold-weather and rain gear. If you intend to ascend or cross the Cerro San Lorenzo, you should work with an experienced mountaineering guide service that are experts in this mountain and the climatic conditions in the area.

To coordinate this adventure, contact Don Luis Soto: (067) 2522236; (09) 95619963; cerrosanlorenzo@gmail.com. With it you can book and agree on a meeting point. During the summer they are in the field, where they don’t have access to internet or telephone, in which case you can go to the Municipality of Cochrane, where there is a HF radio and find out how to contact them in the field, the frequencies 3.789 and 4.580. Other guides and operators who work in the area of Cerro San Lorenzo include:

•

•

Pascual Diaz of Tourism Kalem - Puerto Guadal: Los Alerces N°557; (067) 2431289; (09) 88112535; turismokalempatagonia@gmail.com; Facebook: Turismo Kalem Patagonia.

Jimmy Valdés, Lord Patagonia Cochrane: Lago Brown N°388; (09) 84252419; lordpatagonia@ gmail.com; www.lordpatagonia.cl.

TO THE ANCIENT ICE OF THE CALLUQUEO GLACIER, THANKS TO FRANK HORNBY

Calluqueo is the main glacier descending from Mount San Lorenzo. Until recently, access to this glacier was extremely difficult, but the completion of new meccano bridges at the base of the mountain has made it possible to get up close and even trek across this ancient ice. It’s an unforgettable experience that affords a unique perspective of the second highest mountain in all of Patagonia.

Not long ago you could only access the Calluqueo Glacier after kilometers of horseback riding along the rustic trails of the troperos (cattle herders), but the opening of new sections of the road that will someday join Cochrane with Villa O’Higgins affords visitors the privilege of seeing its beauty firsthand. To explore this sector, fill up your gas tank, double check your 4 x 4 traction and head south from Cochrane on the Carretera Austral. You’ll turn left, approximately six kilometers south of Cochrane, on the road to the Mount San Lorenzo sector (Route X-901). The route follows the Emerald Lake shoreline through farms and forests until it meets the Salto River. Have your camera close, because if the weather permits, you’ll get your first good view of the impressive towers of Cerro San Lorenzo, the second highest mountain in the Patagonia, with an elevation of 3,706 meters.

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After passing the confluence of the Salto and San Lorenzo Rivers, you’ll cross a giant, lifesize version of a “meccano bridge” and continue two kilometers further, until you find the fork toward the glacier. Take a right at the fork along a secondary road that skirts the border of the Confluencia Lake and later, the Salto and Calluqueo Rivers. You’ll drive approximately 12.5 km before crossing a second meccano bridge over the Calluqueo River. Continue approximately three kilometers before parking your car. From here, you’ll need to climb the path of the moraine to your choice of vantage points for the great panoramic spectacle laid out before you: in the foreground, beautiful native forests and wetlands with a river winding through; in the mid-ground, the impressive Calluqueo lagoon that gives birth to the Calluqueo River;

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NOTE Do you remember playing with meccano, or erector sets, when you were a kid?

These popular children’s toy building sets were invented in 1898 and inspired generations of engineers the world over.

They included re-usable metal plates, angle girders, axles and gears, support strips and wheels, and a collection of nuts and bolts that were used to connect the pieces. Apparently, a number of winding from high above, the tongue of the glacier itself, a mysterious ribbon of ancient ice, a spectrum of transparency, whites, and blues, interspersed with millions of cracks and sinks. Rising way, way up behind all of this beauty are the spectacular peaks of Mount San Lorenzo. It’s truly breathtaking.

To fully take advantage of the opportunity

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engineers remembered the experience of playing with these toys, because at some point, the “building set” was reverse engineered; the miniature version was recreated using life-size technology. All over the world, in remote areas where bridge building is extremely difficult and expensive, meccano technology and principles are implemented and the bridge you will cross to reach the Calluqueo Glacier is an example of these meccano techniques.

afforded to you by Patagonia, Mother Nature and Frank Hornby, the inventor of Meccano building sets, we suggest that you contact Jimmy Valdés, owner of Lord Patagonia Audiovisual and Tourism Services, (www. lordpatagonia.cl), or one of the other local guides working in this area. You can arrange to meet your guide in Cochrane and travel to the glacier for an up-close and personal tour.

OVERVIEW »»Activity Type: Self-guided exploration

of the San Lorenzo sector leading to an overlook of the Calluqueo Glacier, with options for a guided boat ride, hiking and camping in the ice.

»»Where to Start: Cochrane »»Place of Term: Cochrane »»Considerations: Bring the appropriate

equipment for your planned activities, including trekking boots and poles, appropriate technical clothing, waterproof layers, sunglasses, a brimmed hat and sunscreen. Carry water, snacks and your camera.

»»Distance:

66 Km in vehicle (round trip), plus hiking, if desired.

»»Duration:

hire a guide for this service, you’ll need to arrange in advance. Guides and operators who work in the area include:

•

•

Jimmy Valdés, Lord Patagonia Audiovisual and Tourism Services – Cochrane: Lago Brown N°388; (09) 84252419; lordpatagonia@ gmail.com; www.lordpatagonia.cl.

Pascual Díaz, Turismo Kalem - Puerto Guadal: Los Alerces N°557; (067) 2431289; (09) 88112535; turismokalempatagonia@gmail.com; Facebook: Turismo Kalem Patagonia.

The true adventure begins after your initial gazing has finished.

You’ll hike down to the shores of the lagoon and cross, via a small outboard-motored boat. Once on the other side, Jimmy will share helmets, crampons, and safety instructions before leading you up the ice on a three-hour trek through this surreal glacier landscape. You’ll lunch next to the glacier at the foot of mythical Mount San Lorenzo before heading back down, or, if the ice has be-

come an insatiable vice, you can extend your adventure (with previous coordination), and spend the rest of the afternoon on the ice before heading to the side to set up camp.

Where? On the side of the glacier, there are perfect spots where you’ll be afforded incredible views of Mount San Lorenzo and the zillion stars that fill the sector’s skies.

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2 to 8 hours, self-guided.

Guided Services offer day trips and

expeditions for several days.

»»Seasonality: October - March »»Reservations: If you want to

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HISTORY, ADVENTURE, AND COUNTRY LIVING IN THE ÑADIS SECTOR

In the Ñadis Sector, the mountains, rivers and native forests are accompanied by rural landscapes with meadows and farmhouses. The combination of landscape and friendly hosts, results in an authentic expression of the rural culture of Patagonia.

After the intense journey along the Carretera Austral, the Ñadis is the ideal sector to rest, relax and experience the quiet pace of life of the Aysén countryside. The area offers refuges and camping, along with various rural activities that will help you connect with the landscapes and local livelihoods in this beautiful environment, just 45 km south of Cochrane. The entrance to the sector is next to the Barrancoso River Bridge. Look for the wooden signs and follow their indications for the secondary road off the Carretera Austral that leads straight to the farm sector along the Ñadis River.

After three kilometers along this road, you’ll arrive at La Araucaria Camping and Refuge, which is a local farm that has developed a great camping area, a shelter with a kitchen, and bathrooms with hot water showers. The owners offer asados, artisan crafts, farmgrown vegetables and horseback riding to El Saltón and the San Carlos pass.

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Continue along the same farm road six kilometers further and you’ll find the Los Cipreses sheep and cattle ranch, where the Sanchez - Schindele family have built a great sleeping refuge and camping area (Refugio y Camping Río Ñadis). It has a fully equipped kitchen and living area, a bedroom with bunk beds for four people, hot water showers, and an incredible artisan quincho, ideal for preparing asados.

Señora Elisabeth Schindele is a master baker and prepares D-E-L-I-C-I-O-U-S homemade breads in her clay oven and offers loaves to guests (for purchase), along with homemade jams made from berries and fruits from the farm. If her delicious breads inspire your inner baker, you can learn to prepare them yourself. Señora Elisabeth offers a bread-making kit, with instructions and all the necessary ingredients to prepare and cook your own loaves in the wood-burning oven of the refuge.

Horseback riding to El Salton and the San Carlos Pass The Ñadis Sector is the starting point for a great horseback ride through landscapes that represent fundamental aspects of Patagonia’s history. Various rural tourism operators offer this ride, including Refugio y Camping La Araucaria and the Refugio y Camping Los Ñadis.

After a short orientation to your horses and the route, you begin the ride following a trail used by the inhabitants of the sector. The route travels through coigüe and ñirre forests and open meadows, bordering the Baker River and creeks. In the distance, you are surrounded by the snow-covered mountains and glaciers of the Northern Patagonia Ice Fields. The area is habitat for several native and migratory birds, including buff-necked Ibis and southern lapwing.

After riding approximately two hours you will start to hear a strong sound. It is the thunder of the Baker as it crashes over the rocks in the Salton Sector. Here, you’ll leave your horses and walk down a short trail leading to a great overlook of the Salton Falls, where you can take pictures and enjoy watching the unpredictable movements of the river’s waters. Imagine how impressive it was for the German geographer Hans Steffen, when he found this place while exploring the Baker in 1898!

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OVERVIEW

»»Activity Type: Farm Life and Horse- »»Reservations: There are several tour back Riding

»»Start:

The Ñadis Sector, between Caleta Tortel and Cochrane.

»»End:

The Ñadis Sector, between Caleta Tortel and Cochrane.

operators who offer camping in their farms and this rural ride, including:

•

»»Distance:

The horseback ride is approximately 18 Km.

»»Duration: You can spend several days

relaxing in this sector. The horseback ride is approximately seven hours.

»»Seasonality: December - March. »»Special Considerations: Children un-

der ten years of age must have had prior experience to participate in this ride. The Fundo Los Cipreses farm offers a short, two hour horseback tour in the surroundings area suitable for kids of all ages.

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If you look just beyond the falls, you will notice that there is a pass cut into the cliff on the other side. This is the San Carlos Pass, cut into the rock to facilitate a connection between the areas in the interior of Baker – O’Higgins Area and the fjords that connected with the Pacific. Construction of the pass began in 1901 but the pass was virtually abandoned a few years later because of the danger and difficulty it presented. In 1921 it was revived and used by the Posada, Hobbs & CIA Livestock Company, administered by Lucas Bridges, in order to move livestock

•

La Araucaria Rural Turismo, The Ñadis Sector: Take the detour at the Barrancoso River Bridge for three km, until you reach the camping area; Radio HF frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580; (09) 81812887; turismo@cochranepatagonia. cl.

Refugio y Camping Río Ñadis (Ñadis River Refuge & Camping); The Ñadis Sector: Take the detour at the Barrancoso River Bridge for nine km, until you reach the refuge; Radio HF frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580; (09) 81851625; lillischindele@yahoo.de.

from the interior to the fjords. The San Carlos Pass was declared National Historic Monument because of the important role it played in the colonization of this area.

During your visit, you will have the opportunity to hike up to the Pass, where you will be rewarded with an impressive panorama of the river. It’s a great vantage point for observing the condors that frequent this sector.

From here, you have the option of walking for ten minutes more to an overlook with spectacular views of the next stretch of the river as it winds in the direction of the sea.

PREPARE YOUR OWN HOMEMADE BREAD WITH PATAGONIA STYLE

You will become an addict to the homemade bread of Patagonia in a matter of minutes. What will you do after you return home? How about learning how to make it yourself?

In reality, it’s not that difficult and lots of people find it to be a great way to relax. In this article, we’ll teach you everything you need for you to discover your “inner-baker” Have you discovered the exquisite homemade breads of Patagonia?

If you have, there’s little doubt that you’re the latest member of the tremendous fan club for Patagonia’s steaming fresh, warm breads, baked in wood-burning ovens and served with creamy butter and home-made jams. It impossible not to be tempted!

In this corner of the world, making homemade bread is still a very important activity in the daily lives of many families. Here, bread baking goes far beyond choosing the right ingredients or have a good recipe; it also means searching for the “just right” pieces of wood, appropriately sized for the wood-burning stoves, so that the baker can obtain the exact temperature to brown the bread and make sure it doesn’t burn.

BON APPETIT!

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THE RECIPE: HOMEMADE PATAGONIAN BREAD (15 - 20) »»Ingredients • 5 cups of all-purpose or bread flour • • •

(5 kg) 1/4cup of vegetable oil 2 tablespoon of dried yeast (20 gr) 1 tablespoon of granulated sugar (12 gr) 2 teaspoons of salt (10 gr) 1-1/2 to 2 cups of warm water

• • »»Preparation

Step 1: Prepare the dough Pour half a cup of warm water in a small bowl with 2 tablespoons of dried yeast and 1 tablespoon of granulated sugar and stir.

Let the mixture rest in a warm place for approximately 5 minutes, without exposing it to direct heat, so that the yeast begins to activate. In another large bowl, place 5 cups of all-purpose or bread flour, and 2 teaspoons of salt. Mix well. Shape the mixture in the middle of the bowl so that it resembles a volcano with a crater and pour the 1/4cup of vegetable oil into the crater.

Little by little, add the yeast mixture over top of the oil.

Step 3: Working the dough

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Use your hands to mix the flour and the ingredients that you put into the “crater”, adding the warm water slowly, while you work the dough. The dough should be well mixed and sticky; if it is too dry add more water and if is very sticky add more flour.

Continue kneading dough until smooth.

The process of mixing and kneading should take between 10 and 15 minutes and is the key for making the dough rise and giving a light and airy consistency to your bread.

After kneading, form the dough into a ball

and place it back into your bowl. Cover with a clean cloth and leave it to rise in a warm place that is not exposed to direct heat for approximately 45 minutes.

Step 4: Cook the dough Find a large, clean surface for rolling out the dough; a counter top or dining table work nicely. Roll out the dough in a large circle of approximately 2 cm in thickness.

Cut into individual rolls using a glass or a round biscuit mold. Put the rolls on a baking tray separated by at least 3 cm and let them rest for about 15 minutes before baking: In a conventional oven: Preheat the oven to 180 ºC (350 ºF). Bake ten to twelve minutes, turning the rolls, after approximately 8 minutes, so that both the tops and bottoms have the opportunity to brown. When they are evenly browned on both sides, remove the tray from the oven and let cool before serving.

In a wood-burning oven: As there are no thermometers or temperature gauges in wood-burning ovens, baking is more “art than science”. Each oven is different, plus, there are several varieties and cuts of wood. Even the weather can affect the way in which the bread bakes. Let’s just say, it takes a bit of practice! Start by filling the firebox with smaller logs and allowing it to get really hot before adding the bread to the oven side. As the bread is cooking, be very attentive, checking the color every few minutes and rotating the rolls, based on the hot spots within the oven. Adjust the heat according to progress.

OVERVIEW »»Activity Type: Gastronomy.

Recipe for making homemade bread baked in a wood or conventional oven.

»»Start:

By locating the ingredients you’ll need, in the shops of Patagonia or in your own city.

»»End: Enjoying the delicious results of your labor with friends and family!

»»Duration: Around two hours. »»Seasonality: Year round. »»Special Considerations: Feel

free to unleash your creativity, adding chopped herbs, raisins, nuts or other ingredients to your bread.

»»Reservations: A perfect place to learn

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and practice the art of making bread in Patagonia is the Los Ñadis Refuge and Camping area, which has a fully equipped kitchen, a wood-burning oven and even a “rural kiosk” with bread-making kits that include all the ingredients you’ll need: Refugio y Camping Río Ñadis (Ñadis River Refuge & Camping); The Ñadis Sector: Take the detour at the Barrancoso River Bridge for nine km, until you reach the refuge; Radio HF frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580; (09) 81851625; lillischindele@yahoo.de

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FLOAT THE BAKER’S TURQUOISE WATERS IN THIS HISTORIC DESCENT

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There were no roads to Caleta Tortel until 2003; thus, settlers and visitors relied on the mighty Baker River to arrive. Recreate this historic tradition, by traveling the final kilometers to Caleta Tortel, aboard a wooden, locally-crafted launch.

The luxury of having your luggage transported to the dock closest to your lodging, is a welcome bonus!

Caleta Tortel is a magical little pueblo suspended above the southern Aysén fjords and strategically located at the mouth of the mighty Baker River. Its houses and stores and walkways are all crafted of aromatic cypress of the Guaitecas and attached to the face of the Bandera Mountain. The village sprang up with the boom of timbering activity for this special cypress that is extremely water resistant and valuable. During the first half of the twentieth century the estancias in Patagonia used cypress posts to erect their enormous fences that extended for hundreds and hundreds of kilometers. The majority of these posts were extracted from the Baker – O’Higgins Area of Aysén; in fact, demand was so high that it almost led to this native tree’s extinction.

Trees were cut and tied together to form giant rafts that could be floated down the Baker River, and stacked in giant piles, waiting to be shipped to Magallanes Region of Chile and the Santa Cruz Province of Argentina, by boat. Each stack represented a small fortune for settlers; thus they wanted to be as close to their “treasure” as possible to make sure that it remained in place until it could be shipped. That is why, little by little, shacks, and then houses, and then stores, began to be built onto the hillside overlooking the docks. And of course, they used the materials available; in this case, the very cypress that had motivated their settlement.

Before 2003 there were no roads connecting Caleta Tortel with the rest of Chile; the Baker River was the main transportation corridor for both residents and visitors and the docks spread throughout the Caleta were the hub of the town’s activity. In just a little over a decade, the existence of the

Carretera Austral has created a totally different scenario. Today, most people come and go via the road, which terminates in a giant parking lot above the historic town of Tortel. New construction is almost entirely focused within “Upper Tortel” and many of the town’s long-time residents are moving above to be closer to the parking lot and the town’s new school.

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A fascinating way to relive the history of this beautiful Caleta and understand the traditional culture of its people, is to travel the final kilometers to Caleta Tortel via the Baker River and not the Carretera Austral. You can float the final stretch of the river in the same way as the first settlers and, in fact, all settlers who traveled in and out before 2003; floating down the Baker River into the delta and finally, the Tortel Bay. The tour usually includes a visit to the Isla de los Muertos (Isle of the Dead) and the Bajo Pisagua or Punta Casas Sector; other important sites in the history of the Baker – O’Higgins cultural area. Your guide will tell you all about them while you marvel the landscapes!

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TRAVELERS’ TIPS You can also reach Caleta Tortel in Kayaking, participating in the lowering of the Baker River actively, by your own rowing! Please Contact Enrique Fernández, River Edge Tortel excursions and expeditions, Base Industry S/N, Caleta Tortel, (56-09) 99408265, borderiotortel@gmail.com.

OVERVIEW

»»Special Considerations: »»Activity Type: Heritage boat tour. al experience provides »»Start: There are several options, depending on the boat and captain you choose:

•

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Option 1 - Puerto Vagabundo: 1.6 km north of the Puerto Yungay crossing, 23.6 km north of Tortel.

From this point, the descent takes about 3 – 4.5 hours.

• Option 2 - La Cabana Sector: 1 km south of the Puerto Yungay crossing - 19.5 km north of Caleta Tortel, 400 m to the west of the route. Lowering delay 2 - 3 hours.

• Option 3 - Caleta Tortel Airfield: Turn right on the side road to the aerodrome, 1 Km north of Tortel, before the last climb to the parking of Caleta Tortel. The trip lasts 1 hour. »»End: Caleta Tortel, at the dock closest to your accommodations.

This culturan intimate experience with the heritage of the Caleta. Various captains and boats offer this tour; contact them to arrange the details and arrangements.

You can park your car and bring the luggage you’ll need in the boat. The captain will coordinate the transfer of your car to the parking area in a safe manner, and have it waiting for you when you are ready to leave.

»»Reservations: If you are interested in

this experience, you should contact a captain and arrange you reservation, in advance. Captains include:

• •

»»Distance:

•

»»Duration:

•

Depends on the place of embarking: Puerto Vagabond (42 km), La Cabana Sector (38 km) or the airfield (15 km). between 1 and 5 hours.

Your captain can provide an accurate estimate because the times will depend on the river, weather conditions and the sector where you start your descent.

»»Seasonality: Year Round.

• •

Artemio Ruiz, Rincón Sector s/n; ruiz.fuentesab@gmail.com.

Claudio Landeros, Expediciones Patagonia Landeros, Playa Ancha Sector s/n; (09) 77042651; claudio.landeros@live.cl.

Noel Vidal Landeros, Centro Sector s/n; (09) 95995730 – 95793779; noellvidal@hotmail. com; www.entrehielostortel. cl.

Rene Vargas, Steffen Adventura, Centro Sector s/n; rvargasall@ gmail.com.

Jorge Arratia, Transporte Arratia, Sector Rincón Alto s/n; jorge18del12@gmail.com.

Miguel Jara, Mate Amargo, Playa Ancha Sector; (09) 56379774.

“ORIENTEER” YOUR WAY ALONG THE BOARDWALKS OF CHARMING, CALETA TORTEL

With its quirky architecture and picturesque boardwalks, Caleta Tortel is sure to be one of the milestones of your journey through Patagonia.

Caleta Tortel is a magical village, which almost hangs from the slopes of the mountains rising around it, so leave your vehicle above and head down the stairs.

Lighten your load leaving everything that’s not necessary above with your vehicle, don your comfortable shoes and stretch your legs before setting out to explore the more than 15 km of walkways and stairs that await you in Caleta Tortel.

Can you imagine a place where almost everything you see is made of wood? Houses, shingles, walkways, boats, piers, signs, and even the public squares and playgrounds; all made of wood, in this unique and fascinating little town, suspended in the air in a dreamy landscape of 1,000 hues of green and the milky turquoise of the Tortel Bay. Unique architecture, geographical isolation and cypress of the Guaitecas have forged the identity of this small village located between the Northern and Southern Patagonia Ice Fields.

Caleta Tortel is enveloped in a heavy wrapping of flora; generously sprinkled with forested areas, comprised of ciprés of the Guaitecas, coigüe, notro, and a mix of short leafed and needle leaf mañío. Add in a LOT of small, and not so small, ferns, mosses, lichens, and forest undergrowth, and you have all the ingredients needed to generate the lush natural environment you will en-

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Caleta Tortel was founded in 1955 when settlers arrived looking for new opportunities for livestock ranching and fishing, but instead they found a much more profitable endeavor: the extraction of cypress of the Guaitecas, an extremely water-repellent, long-lasting wood with an exquisite smell, beautiful vein and great durability. In those times, it was sold for fence posts and telegraph poles being implemented in the region of Magallanes. Little by little, people began to settle in this area, forming a small town; which, even today, bases its economy around this tree; perhaps the only coastal port in Patagonia that does not specialize in fishing or the fruits of the sea.

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counter along the boardwalks and trails of Tortel, filling your sight with every hue of green imaginable.

So, how do they maintain all of those kilometers of wooden walkways and stairs?

Well, it’s a year-round, full time effort to be sure. As with anything else, the Municipality forms contracts with companies; however, many local residents work for these firms, in the construction and care of the boardwalks.

And, from time to time, they have volunteer help, from places you might never imagine!

For example, in 2000 and 2001, both Prince William and Kate Middleton, spent time in Caleta Tortel, as part of their gap-year experiences, working alongside Tortelinos, to repair and expand this unique heritage. If you’re interested in pitching in during your trip, stop by the Municipality in the center of town and ask for a paintbrush. JUST KIDDING.

Caleta Tortel’s location between the Northern and Southern Patagonia Ice BAKER - O’HIGGINS AREA 412

Fields makes it a great home base from which to explore this corner of Patagonia.

Activities and places of interest include:

uuBernardo

O’Higgins National Park: This is Chile’s largest National Park, beginning in the Aysén Region and extending south into Magallanes. It is of great scientific interest because of its diverse wildlife, glaciers and indigenous settlements. One of the last Kawéskar communities lives along the border of these protected lands. The park is home to the Jorge Montt Glacier, which descends from the Southern Patagonia Ice Fields, the largest ice mass in the southern hemisphere, excluding Antarctica.

uuBaker

River: The most powerful river in Chile, and one of the most beautiful in the world, with landscapes rich in flora and fauna, and with a wide range of recreational opportunities, including kayaking, fly-fishing, wildlife observation, and rafting.

uuSteffen Glacier: Located in San Rafael Lagoon National Park, on the western edge of the Northern Patagonia Ice Field.

uuKatalalixar National Reserve: This National

Reserve is one of the most pristine wilderness areas left in the world, filled with scrub forests, composed of the Chiloe coigüe, mañíos, and tepú. Within the Reserve, you will find a CONAF (National Forest Corporation) shelter for camping.

uuPascua

River: Originating on the eastern side of O’Higgins Lake, this river eventually empties into the Calen Fjord, where you can access Quetru Lake and the Jorge Montt Glacier. The sector is surrounded by lush vegetation, providing the perfect surroundings for backcountry water and land excursions. You can access this sector by boat from Caleta Tortel, enjoying a trip, which last approximately 5 hours.

uuIsla de los Muertos (Island of the Dead):

On this island you’ll encounter graves that are a silent testimony of the difficulties faced by early workers and pioneers in Aysén.

Two hundred employees of the Explotadora del Baker Company were abandoned for months in the winter of 1906, and a total of 67 people died due to food shortages and an outbreak of scurvy. Several local captains offer 2 - 3 hour visits to the island.

uuChallenge

#1: Why is Father Antonio Ronchi such a popular character in Caleta Tortel? What did Father Ronchi call himself? Hint: Look for the monument carved in wood at these coordinates: LAT: S 47°48’03’’& LON: W073°32’11’’.

uuChallenge

#2: What is the most important tree for the people living in Caleta Tortel? Hint: Look for the dock and sign, with Caleta Tortel’s historical description, at these coordinates: LAT: S 47°48’14’’ & LON: W073°32’13’’.

uuChallenge

#3: What was the main transportation for the Kawéskar and, how many tiles are there on the roof of the “Plaza”?

Hint: Look for the Kawéskar sculpture and Plaza Kawéskar at these coordinates: LAT: S 47°48’14’’ & LON: W073°32’18’’.

A great way to discover Caleta Tortel is to “Orienteer” your way along the boardwalks. uuChallenge #4: What does ECA stand for?

Hint: Look for the ECA grocery store at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48’13’’ & LON: W073°32’17’’.

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This fun game provides you with an interesting morning or afternoon of sightseeing in Caleta Tortel. The activity is similar to the sport of “Orienteering” or “Geo-caching”, which runs along a path with the aid of a GPS to find locations of specific interest. The only thing you need is a GPS or compass, three hours of daylight and a curiosity to discover the secrets of Caleta Tortel. There are 18 places to find, including buildings, natural areas, cultural spots, and other curiosities. You set your rules; choose to visit just some of the recommended spots, or cover the whole circuit. The challenge is to learn more about each particular place you will visit. The answers will be evident in some spots. In others, you will have to be more observant. We encourage you to look around, to read, to talk with locals, to ask questions, etc., in order to get your answer.

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uuChallenge

#5: Who built this beached barge? Hint: Look for the name on the remains of a typical barge, in the sand at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48’13’’ & LON: W073°32’19’’.

inal families in Caleta Tortel, to make a living out of cypress? Hint: Look for the Square commemorating important families, for the cypress industry, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48’18’’ & LON: W073°32’26’’.

uuChallenge #6: Can you identify at least 5 uuChallenge different plants or trees? Hint: Look for the boardwalk sector with abundant vegetation and flora, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48’13’’ & LON: W073°32’19’’. (and bring a book on flora!)

uuChallenge #7: How many steps lead to the

antennae area? Hint: Look for the boardwalk junction and the long stairway leading straight up, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48’14’’ & LON: W073°32’21’’.

uuChallenge

#8: What is the purpose of so many antennae, and, can you spot the Isla de los Muertos and Río Baker’s mouth? Hint: Look for the overlook and mossy area, near the antennae, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48’11’’ & LON: W073°32’27’’.

uuChallenge #9: Can you spot a tiny carniv-

orous plant, named the Violetilla of the Marshes, (Drosera Uniflora)? Hint: Look close to the ground for red plants with tiny teeth, near the boardwalk sector, with abundant vegetation, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48’14’’ & LON: W073°32’20’’.

uuChallenge #10: What does CIEP stand for

and why are they in Caleta Tortel? Hint: Look for the CIEP Laboratory, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48’13’’ & LON: W073°32’19’’. Stop in and ask about their research!

#12: In this house, clothes and blankets are made from local materials.

Can you identify the materials? Also, there is another thing being made nearby, that uses local materials. Can you identify this item? Hint: Look for the wooden house, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48’18’’ & LON: W073°32’25’’.

uuChallenge #13: A canoga is a hollowed out tree trunk cut lengthwise. In the early days of Patagonia, roofs were built by overlapping conogas. Can you find an example of Canogas in Caleta Tortel? Hint: Look for the old house, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48’16’’ & LON: W073°32’48’’.

uuChallenge

#14: Can you identify what makes the ground in this area, so moist?

Hint: Look for the end of the Junquillo Sector walkway, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48’11’’ & LON: W073°32’52’’.

uuChallenge

#15: A ciprés of the Guaitecas (cypress) tree can reach a maximal height of more than 20 meters; and, in some exceptional cases, even as tall as 40 meters, with a diameter of approximately one meter. The Guaitecas Cypress is currently a protected species, and as a result, it is illegal to cut down healthy cypresses. How many cypress trees can you observe, in the sector of the coordinates: LAT: S47°48’06’’ & LON: W073°32’51’’?

#16: Can you estimate the height uuChallenge #11: Who were some of the orig- uuChallenge of Cerro La Bandera? Hint: Walk to the

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TRAVELERS’ TIPS »»A fun way to finish the game is to hike

the Las Bandera Trail, which takes you way up to the top of the mountain behind town, providing a new perspective on the sector, with great aerial views. If you decide to take this hike, you should plan things, so that you have at least 3 hours of daylight, some water, and snacks. Bring a small backpack for extra layers of clothing and dress for Patagonia weather.

»»Here are some fun twists you can in-

corporate to make your own version of the Orienteering game:

• • • • • •

Take pictures of each place and post them on the Undiscovered Patagonia website.

Buy a sample of local wooden handicrafts somewhere along the way.

Count the number of stairs you walk.

Feel the sea with your hands.

Spot the highest walkway in town.

Count or try to identify the different birds you see along the way.

summit, located at these coordinates: LAT: S47°47’38’’& LON: W73°32’13”, and take an altitude reading, on your GPS.

uuChallenge #17: How many houses are there

in Caleta Tortel? Hint: You can count the houses in Caleta Tortel from the Cerro la Bandera overlook, at these coordinates:

LAT: S47°47’42’’ & LON: W073°32’14’’.

uuChallenge

#18: Can you identify some of the community services and agencies, present in Caleta Tortel? Hint: Look around you, at the buildings and signs, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°47’45’’ & LON: S47°47’45’’.

OVERVIEW »»Activity Type: Exploring, using clues

and GPS orientation. Ideal for the whole family!

»»Start: Caleta Tortel. »»End: Caleta Tortel. »»Distance: Up to 7 km. »»Duration: 1 - 4 hours »»Seasonality: Year Round. »»Specialties considerations:

»»Reservations: Self-guided activity, no reservations needed.

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The circuit follows the boardwalks and public trails. You’ll need access to a GPS, or map. Great for families! Begin anywhere along the boardwalks in Caleta Tortel. Choose one of the challenges and using your GPS, or a map, find the place. Work together to try and answer the questions.

You’ll need to look around for clues, ask a passerby, and pay attention!

You can adjust the circuit and the physical demands to for your group’s capacities.

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SUMMIT CERRO LA BANDERA IN A SNAP!

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This is a beautiful, short, self-guided hike that leads you high above Caleta Tortel, to the top of Cerro La Bandera, offering great views of the Baker River, and Tortel Bay. After a while on the boardwalks of Caleta Tortel, the beauty of the natural environment may have you yearning to be in closer contact. This hike is the perfect mix of both.

It takes visitors past the main areas of town, and then sends them way above, to the top of Cerro La Bandera, along a well-marked trail that provides breathtaking panoramas, and fascinating up-close views of the unique flora. The circuit is circular, so it can be started at any point in Caleta Tortel and walked in either direction. We recommend starting in the area near the school and the parking lot, and hiking in a clockwise manner, because the trail head is easier to encounter.

You’ll walk along the boardwalk leading to the airstrip, and approximately 200 meters after the school, you will find the signage indicating the trail which heads up to the left.

It’s well marked.

The trail begins and ends with sections of raised wooden planks, which help you navigate the particularly boggy areas. Once you reach the top, the area becomes rocky and flat, making it easier to navigate the trails.

Arrows mark the route, and several different overlooks, from which you can spot the Baker River Delta, lots of islands and channels, the Pisagua waterfall, and the airstrip, by the river. Once you complete the trail portion, you will descend back to the boardwalk, on the opposite side of town from where you began. Complete your circuit, returning along the walkways, until reaching your starting point.

The route travels through very humid peat areas, where there are enormous ferns, and plants with giant, umbrella-type leaves, called nalca, or pangue. There are also cypress forests, and moss fields. You will see lots of bird life and hear tiny frogs croaking. There are four frog species found in the area: Puerto Edén frog, southern patted frog, white lagoon creeper, and the speckled frog. These little critters are not easy to spot, but if you should be lucky enough to see one, please avoid touching them. An attentive eye can

spot small carnivorous plants called violetillas of the marshes, the bright red flowers of the coicopihue, which are very similar in shape to the national flower of Chile, the copihue, and a wide variety of lichens, mosses, and small fosforitos. In the Junquillo Sector, you’ll pass through a second-growth forest of cypress of the Guaitecas, where you might be lucky enough to spot a unique variety of night butterflies. Considering the amazing flora, fauna and sightseeing this area offers, we suggest that you take binoculars and maybe even a magnifying glass, if you can find one, and definitely, a flora-fauna field guide.

OVERVIEW

»»Activity Type: Half day hiking »»Start: You can access this trail from

the boardwalks, 200 meters from the school, along the walkway; which, leads to the airstrip, or at the Junquillos Sector, on the far end of town, where the municipal walkway ends.

»»End: The trail descends back to the boardwalk at the opposite end of town from where you started. You can make your way back along the boardwalks to your start point.

»»Distance: 2.6 km »»Duration: 2 - 3 hours. »»Seasonality: Year Round. »»Special Considerations: In the spring,

»»Reservations:

Activity self-guided tour. Does not require reservations.

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the higher altitudes of Cerro La Bandera become a giant “sponge” absorbing tremendous amount of water, and providing a natural filtering system. Walking conditions, during these times, are “bog like”. Some of the bed & breakfasts in town have rubber boots for guests to borrow.

We suggest their use during this time of year. Dress properly for rainy weather. Don’t forget to carry water, a snack and your camera and please, don’t throw your garbage in the cans located at the overlooks, as it can blow away, or be eaten by wild animals. Carry your garbage down with you and dispose of it, in the receptacles in town.

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REMEMBER THOSE WHO WERE FORGOTTEN AT THE ISLE OF THE DEAD

Prepare yourself in advance for the quiet moments of introspection and wonder you will feel when strolling the faint walkways through the forests and ferns to the mysterious cemetery on the Isle of the Dead, a Chilean National Monument memorializing one of the darkest episodes in Aysén’s history.

It’s a short and lovely boat trip from the Caleta to this tiny isle located south of Tortel’s Bay. You’ll be immersed within a dreamy landscape that includes the turquoise waters of the Baker River Delta, the intense greens of the native forests, snowy peaks, giant waterfalls, and hanging glaciers. Perhaps the serenity of the landscape makes the isle’s chilling monument that much more surreal; 59 worn wooden crosses peeking out from between giant ferns and nalca leaves, quietly memorializing a tragedy, that was anything but “serene”.

For years the events that led to the 59 crosses on the isle were shrouded in mystery.

There was talk of famine, accidental poisoning and even a premeditated mass-murder.

But, everything was a matter of legend and rumor, until social anthropologist, Mauricio Osorio, uncovered new evidence that has helped to reveal true events that led to the catastrophe.

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All of the excursions to the Isle of the Dead pass through the Bajo Pisagua Sector, where there is an incredible waterfall that pours down into the fjord. This sector is the scene for the drama that was to unfold. At the end of 1905, the Explotadora del Baker Company contracted around 200 workers from Chiloe and Puerto Montt, to come to the Bajo Pisagua sector and work, building roads, logging and working in construction of new infrastructure. Work moved forward during the spring and summer months and workers began to anticipate the winter break, when they would return home to their families.

A ship would arrive to transport the workers back north in June of that year; their contract stipulated a break during the winter months when the climate included sub-zero tem-

TRAVELERS’ TIPS A If you plan to capture your experience with photos, you should bring a tripod because the light is low under the coverage of the forest and a macro lens, so that you can capture the details. peratures, strong winds and rains. Accommodations were not adequate for housing so many people during the harsh conditions of winter when clearly, the weather prevented work from moving forward. So, rations were provided through the end of May when the ship would arrive. But, it didn’t arrive on the indicated day, or the next.

It was almost four months later, on September 27, 1906, when the Araucanía Steamer, from Punta Arenas, picked up the 157 survivors of the Bajo Pisagua tragedy. Fifty-nine workers had died during the harsh Patagonian winter, due to lack of food and an outbreak of scurvy, and their remains rest under the worn wooden crosses on the isle. Eight more victims died aboard the Araucanía on the way back. It’s especially sad to notice the short lives memorialized by many of the

Today, thanks to the efforts of Don Osorio’s research, the mystery of their deaths can finally be shared and the forgotten, remembered. So, as you walk through the isle surrounded by such incredible beauty, take a moment to remember a few of the names that are hand written onto the crosses. Then, as you make your way back to the comforts of Caleta Tortel, take a few minutes to remember the names of those forgotten for so long.

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The ship scheduled to transport the workers never arrived; they had been abandoned!

crosses on the isle, whose dates reveal that many of the workers were young men, some only 15 years old.

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OVERVIEW

»»Activity

Type: Historical boat tour and short walk

»»Start: Caleta Tortel. »»End: Caleta Tortel. »»Distance: 10 km. »»Duration: 2 hours. »»Seasonality: Year Round. »»Special Considerations: Dress in lay-

•

ered clothing and be prepared for rain. It’s a good idea to bring a thermos with a hot drink, because at times can be quite cold.

•

There are several different service provider and many offer their services using traditional hand-crafted boats, built in the village from native cypress of the Guaitecas.

Book in advance. Options include:

•

»»Reservations:

• BAKER - O’HIGGINS AREA 420

•

Artemio Ruiz, Rincón Sector s/n;

•

ruiz.fuentesab@gmail.com.

Claudio Landeros, Expediciones Patagonia Landeros, Playa Ancha Sector s/n; (56-09) 77042651; claudio.landeros@live. cl.

Noel Vidal Landeros, Centro Sector s/n; (09) 95995730 95793779; noellvidal@hotmail. com; www.entrehielostortel. cl.

Rene Vargas, Steffen Aventura, Centro Sector s/n; rvargasall@ gmail.com.

Jorge Arratia, Transporte Arratia, Rincón Alto Sector s/n; jorge18del12@gmail.com.

Miguel Jara, Mate Amargo, Playa Ancha sector; (09) 56379774; turismo@municipalidaddetortel.cl.

ENTER THE ICY WORLD OF THE PATAGONIAN ICE FIELDS

Caleta Tortel is the entry point to the pristine nature of the Northern and Southern Patagonia Ice Fields.

Huge icebergs and glaciers are only part of the experience of touring through this dynamic frozen world.

The total mass of the Northern and Southern Patagonia Ice Fields is huge; around 20,000 km2; yet, this enormous area is only a tiny fragment (about 4%) of the original Patagonia Ice Sheet, which covered all of the South of Chile and parts of Argentina during the most recent Llanquihue Glaciation, which peaked between 17,500 to 18,000 years ago.

During your visit to Caleta Tortel, you will be within a few hours of both of the Patagonia Ice Fields; it is a unique opportunity to visit these amazing vestiges of an ancient world.

The Northern Patagonia Ice Fields and the Steffen Glacier This huge mass of continental ice is located within the Laguna San Rafael National Park, home to several glaciers, including Steffen, Exploradores, Nef, Leones, Solar, San Rafael, and also the highest peak in the southern Andes, Monte San Valentin (4,058 m). From Caleta Tortel, you can visit the southernmost sector of this expanse of ice: Steffen Valley and Glacier, named for the German explorer and geographer, Hans Steffen, who was one of the first to explore the Region, around 1900.

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The 35 Km round-trip boat tour takes around 10 hours, depending on the style of boat. You’ll leave from the docks in Caleta Tortel and wind your way through the southern fjords, passing islands with beautiful waterfalls and forests and abundant bird and marine mammal life. On your approach to the glacier’s bay, you will be surrounded by thousands of icebergs that now fill the waterway. These provide your first indications of a unique world, receding from the ice after tens of thousands of years. Once inside the bay, you’ll have views of the Huemules River and the forests that are forming with more and more force as the glacier continues its retreat. Keep alert for huemules that frequent the beaches and cliff area, and enjoy the beautiful contrasts between the ice and

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the park’s ever-growing lands. After a break for photos and a snack, you’ll begin your way back to Caleta Tortel through the beautiful waters of the fjords.

The Southern Patagonia Ice Field and the Jorge Montt Glacier As you travel through the southern reaches of the Baker - O’Higgins Area, you’ll have the chance to visit the Southern Patagonia Ice Fields, the third largest extension of continental ice in the world, surpassed only by Antarctica and Greenland. The Southern Patagonia Ice Fields have a total area of 16,800 km² and 49 glaciers that descend from the mass, including Perito Moreno (Argentina), Gray, Pius XI, O’Higgins, and the Jorge Montt Glacier, which is accessed via maritime navigation, from Caleta Tortel.

The Jorge Montt Glacier is one of the fastest-receding glaciers in the world, documented to lose approximately one kilometer of mass each year. The retreat of the ice produces an overwhelming number of icebergs floating in the waters, and is revealing new fjord mass with depths in excess of 390 m.

To visit, you’ll travel 3 to 4 hours by boat from Caleta Tortel, accompanied by a variety of marine bird life and sea mammals, like dolphins and sea lions. As you approach the bay, you will be accompanied by an ever greater number of crystal blue icebergs until you feel as if you are navigating through a surreal icy maze. The glacier tongue snakes down from the Ice Fields at the far end of the bay. After time in the bay and a short walk onto the ice (if it’s safe), you’ll start the return navigation to Tortel, with a few hours more to disconnect and immerse yourself in the surreal landscapes.

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»»Activity

OVERVIEW

Type: Maritime Navigation to the Patagonia Ice Fields with options to visit the Northern Patagonia Ice Field and the Steffen Glacier or the Southern Patagonia Ice Field and the Jorge Montt Glacier.

»»Start: Caleta Tortel. »»End: Caleta Tortel »»Distance: Steffen: 70

km navigation round trip. Jorge Montt: 100 km navigation round trip.

»»Duration: 10 - 36 hours. »»Seasonality: November - April. »»Special Considerations: You

will need to register your visit and pay the National Park entrance fee in the CONAF offices in Tortel. Proximity of access is determined by the boat captains; foul weather will prevent a safe passage to the glacier. If you are prone to motion sickness, consider bringing medication.

»»Reservations:

Required in advance.

In order to increase odds of having a successful visit, allow at least two days in your itinerary, to accommodate bad weather cancellations. Suppliers include:

• • •

• •

•

Artemio Ruiz, Rincón Sector s/n; ruiz.fuentesab@gmail.com.

Claudio Landeros, Expediciones Patagonia Landeros, Playa Ancha Sector s/n; (09) 77042651; claudio.landeros@live.cl.

Noel Vidal Landeros, Centro Sector s/n; (09) 95995730 - 95793779; noellvidal@ hotmail.com; www.entrehielostortel.cl.

Rene Vargas, Steffen Aventura, Centro Sector s/n; rvargasall@ gmail.com.

Jorge Arratia, Transporte Arratia, Rincón Alto Sector s/n; j o r g e18 d e l12 @ g m a i l . c o m ; Facebook: Jorge Arratia Tortel Expediciones Miguel Jara, Mate Amargo, Playa Ancha Sector s/n; (09) 56379774; turismo@municipalidadde tortel.cl.

CAIQUENES LAGOONS ARE A WONDERFUL PLACE TO “STOP, LOOK AND LISTEN”

The area surrounding the Caiquenes Lagoons is a public Nature Reserve and Conservation Area, managed by the Aumen NGO, which puts heavy emphasis on scientific research.

Located on the road between Puerto Yungay and Caleta Tortel, this is a landscape that merits a closer look!

As you travel along the road between Caleta Tortel and Puerto Yungay, watch for a small sign marking the Caiquenes Lagoons Nature Reserve, an 8,000 hectare conservation area with stunning landscapes and unique biodiversity. From the area’s observation tower you’ll have a panoramic view of the lagoons and surrounding peat bogs, wetland reeds, and an expansive forest of coigüe and ñirre that climbs up the rocky peaks. The habitats host approximately 23 species of birds and a healthy huemul population, so you’ll want your binoculars and camera ready.

The marshy conditions, mix of wetland plants, and abundant forest streams that surround the three connected lagoons are ideal for amphibian life.

The Bosque Encantado, (Enchanted Forest) Sector of the reserve contains a very fragile forest that is home for diverse varieties of fungi, lichens and moss. You’ll especially want to help conserve these important plants, as they absorb tremendous amounts of carbon, helping to offset the impacts of travel and other human energy use. There are more than 75 species in total, and more than 30 are endemic of Southern Chile. To see some,

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At least four uncommon species can be found here; the Puerto Edén frog (bufo variegatus), the southern patted frog (alsodes australis), the white lagoon creeper (atelognathus antartantica), and the speckled frog (batrachyla antartandica). They are not easy to spot, and surprisingly, the strategic position is right next to the road, in the ditches and drainages. If you see them, avoid touching them. Listening is another fun way to observe the amphibians. If you visit at night, it is very easy: just park, turn off the engine, and walk along the road. You will hear a variety of interesting songs and sounds.

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OVERVIEW

»»Activity Type: Wildlife and habitat observation.

»»Start: The Conservation Area beyou can explore the area between the road and the north end of the lake, maintaining care not to damage the vegetation. The use of magnifying glasses in this forest provides a gateway into another world filled with interesting shapes and colors that are very difficult to see without the glass’s help.

To find out more details about the biodiversity and habitat of the Caiquenes Lagoons Area, we recommend that you visit the reserve with a guide. You can request information about the guides and scientists working in the conservation area by email: contacto@aumen.cl.

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gins 18 Km from the crossing for Caleta Tortel and 11.5 Km from Puerto Yungay.

»»End:

The Conservation Area begins 18 Km from the crossing for Caleta Tortel and 11.5 Km from Puerto Yungay.

»»Distance: 1 km walk »»Duration: 1 - 3 hours »»Seasonality: September - May »»Special Considerations: Aumen has

great information and guides for the Flora and Fauna of the Conservation Area on their website (www.aumen.cl). Most of the accessible areas of the reserve are very fragile wetlands and there are no developed trails; therefore, it is extremely important that you tread lightly; leaving a minimal impact on nature, hopefully, not even a trace. Please, limit your visit to a walk along the road and a visit to the observation tower if you are not accompanied by a guide who works with the Conservation Area.

»»Reservations:

are not required, but, please, you must inform your visit to contacto@aumen.cl, so they can monitor the level of public interest.

EXPLORE THE TREMENDOUS LEGACY OF FATHER ANTONIO RONCHI

The inspiring life and works of this self-proclaimed “rascal priest” provide a window into the culture and history of our unique corner of the world.

We invite you to learn a bit more about one of the most important and beloved characters of Aysén.

Father Antonio Ronchi arrived in Chile in 1960, at the age of 30, and dedicated the remainder of his life to work within her most rural and isolated communities. He had many loyal followers and friends within Aysén, but he also had his critics; many of his peers did not agree with his focus on the poorest and most isolated communities of the region and others did not approve of his methods, which they considered uncommon and unconventional.

Father Antonio Ronchi was born February 3, 1930, in Balsamo, Milan, Italy.

He first traveled to Chile in 1960, with the Mother of the Divine Providence mission.

After a year, he was sent south to Puerto Cisnes, a small coastal town in the north-central area of Aysén. During this assignment, he spent seven years in the rural communities of the Region, visiting communities and rural

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One of the unique aspects of Father Ronchi’s style was his use of a “minga” approach. This approach was borrowed from the Island of Chiloe, a bit further north in Chile, where many of the Aysén settlers had ties. When communities in Chiloe had challenges or problems to address, people came together to solve them as a community; each making a personal contribution to the project, based on their individual talents and resources. In Aysén, Fr. Ronchi would go door to door, calling on each and every person in the entire community in which he was working, often walking the long distances from farm to farm, and asking for their aid in the development of each particular project.

From donating wood and supplies, to putting in hours of hard labor in construction, to providing food for the workers; everyone in the town would help in some way or another. This was one of the main reasons why Fr. Ronchi is still so highly praised; beyond helping build infrastructure, he helped connect communities.

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households, conversing with local authorities and business interests, searching for ways in which he could garner resources and assistance to improve rural living conditions. Rural areas in the Region were still very isolated.

Imagine a place surrounded by dense forests, mountains and fjords; perhaps the very place you are in now, while reading this article. But in these years, there were no roads or cell phones or WiFi. Access to electricity was uncommon for most families in the Region and infrastructure was extremely sparse.

There were few roads, schools, medical facilities, and churches. Communication largely occurred through news passed along from farm to farm. There was UHF radio; however, only the government or Rural Health Posts had equipment. Residents needed to reach these posts and ask permission, in order to send a message.

Fr. Ronchi’s second assignment in Aysén began in 1972 and lasted approximately 20 years. He worked tirelessly, traveling to each and every corner of the Aysén Region, especially those that were considered unreachable. He helped communities build small churches, workshops, boats, docks, and schools. He helped them obtain small water turbines for electricity and installed a considerable number of FM radio antennas to improve communication.

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In 1994, Fr. Ronchi was awarded Chilean nationality in recognition of his extensive work for the isolated and impoverished inhabitants of the southern regions. This official recognition went beyond his achievements; also emphasizing his austere, enterprising approach and dedication to the communities he served. On December 17, 1997, Fr. Ronchi passed away at the age of 67. His remains lie in the cemetery of Puerto Aysén, Chile.

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You’ll find Father Ronchi’s legacy scattered throughout Aysén.

Father Ronchi’s works are so numerous that you could stop in almost any town or village in the region and ask for recommendations on where to go and what to see relating to his mission. Here are a few examples that will get you started.

Villa O’Higgins: Along the northern side of the Plaza de Arms you will see a yellow building. In 1977, Fr. Ronchi and the community built this building as a church. Currently, it is the Museum of the Patagonia, dedicated to Fr. Ronchi, honoring his decades of work for the development of the region. Museum exhibits include aspects of his work, especially his projects in Villa O’Higgins and several historical objects that depict the colonization and local traditions of the sector. You can also visit his private quarters in a small room to the side of the church, where he had his personal possessions and readings materials. Seven km north of Villa O’Higgins, just before you reach the Van Schouwen Bridge over the Mayer River, you will encounter a road leading to your right. Turn right to follow this side road, which follows the course of the Mayer River for 47 Km, before arriving at the Mayer River Border Control Post. About 18 Km from the crossing, you’ll encounter the emblematic chapel set back in a small meadow, on the right side of the road, that makes use of a pioneer building practice called Canogas, which consists of hollowing out tree trunks and interweaving them to form a roof. Fr. Antonio Ronchi built the Chapel with help from residents of the communities of Villa O’Higgins and the Mayer River Valley.

Puerto Yungay: Here you can visit the four houses constructed, minga style, with Fr. Ronchi in the 1980s, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. In addition to these houses in Puerto Yungay; he worked with settlers to build a school, a chapel, and workshops in which inhabitants could work. In fact, his project even included installation of an in-

dispensable turbine, to produce the energy necessary for this would-be town. Ronchi’s vision was that families living in Caleta Tortel would leave their houses and relocate to Yungay. He felt it offered more options for access, as the Carretera Austral was connected as far as Yungay. He argued that in fact, Yungay provided important access to the Pacific, through the Mitchell Estuary and was a more feasible location to build a town. At the time, Caleta Tortel could not be reached by road; access was only by light plane or boat. Travelers left from a sector named Puerto Vagabundo and navigated the Baker River to arrive through the Bay. Ronchi’s plan never materialized, and it took until 2003, almost 20 more years, for roads to finally reach the isolated town of Caleta Tortel.

We invite you to continue discovering the life and history of Father Ronchi.

»»Activity Type: Self-guided heritage tour.

»»Start:

Museum of the Pioneers in Villa O’Higgins.

»»End: Any small town and village in the region.

»»Distance: You can incorporate this

route into your travel itinerary by looking for Fr. Ronchi’s work in each of the towns and villages you visit.

»»Duration: Throughout your travels. »»Seasonality: Year round. »»Special Considerations: Many of

the people who live in these areas knew Fr. Ronchi, and worked alongside him, in some of his many projects! If you find yourself with the chance to chat, ask about their memories of Fr. Ronchi’s many travels through Patagonia, and the time he spent in their communities.

»»Reservations:

Self-guided activity, no reservations needed.

In addition to the sites we’ve highlighted, you can find Fr. Ronchi’s works in almost all of the towns and villages of Aysén: Puerto Gala, Puerto Gaviota, Raúl Marín Balmaceda, La Junta, Lago Verde, Puyuhuapi, Villa Amengual, La Tapera, Puerto Cisnes, Villa Ortega, Villa Cerro Castillo, Puerto Ibáñez, Bahía Murta, Fachinal, Los Ñadis Sector, Caleta Tortel, Puerto Yungay, Mayer River Sector and Villa O’Higgins. The tomb of the beloved missionary is in Puerto Aysén. Almost all Ayséninos share a love and respect for Fr. Ronchi and his work, that you will likely share after learning a bit about him and his incredible life.

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Caleta Tortel: The works of Fr. Ronchi in the community of Caleta Tortel can best be discovered meandering along the many boardwalks of the town. You’ll encounter a full sized wooden statue of Fr. Ronchi standing outside of one of his famous chapels. In addition to this small church, which is still in active use, Fr. Ronchi supported the creation of the first FM radio and television antennas for the town. Although the satellite dish you see today is a much later addition, it’s a constant reminder of the efforts Fr. Ronchi made to connect Caleta Tortel with the outside world. As in Puerto Yungay, Fr. Ronchi helped the community build their first hydroelectric turbine, providing much needed power for this isolated town. He also constructed a boat to help transport residents through the fjords and assist with their economic development. Today, the boat is no longer in use and its condition has deteriorated; but its shell is still intact and can be seen next to the main docks of Caleta Tortel.

OVERVIEW

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CATCH A TIGER BY THE TAIL

This seven kilometer, guided hiking excursion, climbs up to the El Tigre Glacier, along a trail which begins 24 km north of Villa O’Higgins. This hike allows you to develop first-hand understanding of the footprint left by glaciers as they move through a landscape.

This hike is a constant climb up to the base of this mid-mountain glacier but don’t let that intimidate you; there will be plenty of opportunities to rest as you pause to take picture after picture of the incredible views you’ll be treated to along the way. The idea is to take your time, enjoy the views and notice the details painted across this beautiful landscape that will allow you to see the retreat of the glaciers for yourself.

Twelve thousand years ago the entire valley that spreads out before you during this hike was completely covered in ice. During this era, the Tigre Glacier that you will find at the top of your climb, reached down the entire mountain into the valley below. Today, only remnants remain, complements of the climatic conditions that exist at its higher altitude.

As you make your way up to these remnants, look for the evidence of the glacier’s movements that accompany you along the route.

For example, along the sides of the route and across the valley’s floor, you will notice large boulders that don’t match the rest of the rocks in the area; seemingly tossed into the landscape by a giant. These are called “erratics” and the giant was the glacier itself, which carried the rocks through the landscape, leaving them in its wake, as it made its retreat.

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The trail becomes less clear as you reach the mid-mountain; however, the area is open and clean, and your guide should be very familiar with the route. It takes around 21/2 hours to reach the top, (1,000 M), where you be rewarded with views of the El Tigre Glacier and its turquoise lagoon. Here, the hike levels off. As you get closer to the glacier, you will see the striations, or stripes, that have formed on the rock walls on one side of the narrow valley, marking the direction that the glacier’s ice followed, as it descended along

OVERVIEW

»»Activity

Type: Hiking with a steep slope up to the summit.

guides in Villa O’Higgins that offer this trek , including:

»»Where to Start: Valley of the swans

•

»»Place of term: Valley of Lake Swans »»Distance: 10 Km »»Activity Duration: 6 - 8 hours »»Season: November to April »»Special Considerations: The trail

•

Lake, 27 km north of Villa O’Higgins

is not well marked. We recommend hiking this trail with a local guide who can interpret the natural history of the sector and point out the traces of the glaciers visible during the entire route. You’ll want trekking boots and poles, layered and waterproof clothing, sunglasses, a brimmed hat and sunscreen. Carry water, a snack, and your camera.

»»Reservations:

There

are

several

its course.

•

continue to descend you’ll reach areas with tiny flowers and then, stunted lenga trees, which will get bigger as you continue your downward course. By the time you reach the valley, enormous coigües, thick forest undergrowth, ferns, and mosses will surround you. Always, the presence of water is nearby, carrying rich glacial sediments that provide the nutrients and base for the biodiversity of the wetlands.

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As you descend down into the Valley, notice the signs of the changes that have occurred in this ecosystem over the previous 12,000 years. In the higher reaches the striations of the glaciers movements are especially pronounced. As you leave the ice you will notice a gradual change from bare rocks to rocks covered by lichen and moss. As you

•

Alonso Díaz (Coya), Excursiones Entre Patagones – Carretera Austral, located in the north entrance to town; (067) 2431810; (09) 66215046; www.entrepatagones.cl; info@entrepatagones.cl.

Mauricio Melgarejo, Tsonek Expediciones – Carretera Austral, 1.6 km north of town; (09) 78929695; www.tsonek.cl; info@tsonek. cl.

Hans Silva, Villa O’Higgins Expediciones – Carretera Austral, Km 1240; (067) 2431831 - 2431832; www.villaohiggins.com; contacto@villaohiggins.com.

Andrea Rosas, Vulturpatagonia Lago Cisne 215; (09) 93508156; andrearosast@gmail.com.

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WELCOME TO VILLA O’HIGGINS, THE HEART OF PATAGONIA

Raise your glass and celebrate reaching the heart of Patagonia, the end of the Carretera Austral, and the remote gateway to the Southern Ice Fields. It is a land of pioneers, explorers, adventurers, and sailors, where nature is at its most pristine.

Just about the time that you begin to take the Patagonia landscapes for granted, you’ll reach Villa O’Higgins and your amazement and wonder will return. O’Higgins is one of the most remote villages in Chile, situated at the end of the Carretera Austral and surrounded by the peaks of the southern Andes, the deepest lake in the Americas, the fjords of the Pacific, and the Southern Patagonia Ice Fields.

You’ll be amazed that there is a town in such an isolated area!

It is probable there were indigenous groups living in this area for thousands of years; however, more recent settlements emerged between 1914 and 1918, when a mixture of Chilean and European families began to settle in the sectors surrounding Río Mayer and Lago O’Higgins. For more than fifty years, the area remained extremely rustic and remote; inhabited by only a few dozen families. Goods and services flowed primarily through Argentina, where the topography made travel more feasible.

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In 1965, to support efforts towards the formal creation of the town, residents constructed a runway to establish more regular access within Chile. Work was completed during the winter of 1966 and later that year, on September 20, various authorities from both the Aysén and Magallanes Regions of Chile, landed on the new airstrip to recognize their efforts. The town was formally established in 1980, at which time it had already built a primary school and a health post. 1983 was another big year for Villa O’Higgins. Electricity, a radio station, a church, and a gym arrived; all catalyzed by Father Antonio Ronchi. Perhaps the biggest change came with the opening of the southernmost section of the Carretera Austral in 1999, which allowed overland access through Chile.

pioneers of the town.

uuMosco Glacier Trail: Full day trek wind-

ing through native forests above town and the Mosco River Valley to a fantastic overlook of the Mosco Glacier.

uuTrail

to Cerro Santiago: Easy, one hour hike through native forests of Villa O’Higgins to an overlook above town with an impressive view of surrounding valleys, lakes, and rivers.

uuRoad Since then, several lodges and operators have opened doors in Villa O’Higgins offering a range of activities in the local area including hiking, horse treks, fly-fishing, and trips to the Southern Patagonia Ice Fields. Nevertheless, Villa O’Higgins is still very much an authentic Patagonian pueblo, maintaining its traditional economic activities which revolve around ranching and forest resources. Many pioneer traditions remain intact, including the daily dependence on horses, woodworking, using native woods and rustic tools, knitting, smoking meats, etc.

Being a remote community limits access to modern luxuries, but if you are prepared for that, you’ll find Villa O’Higgins full of simple comforts, including excellent options for lodging, cellular service and Internet, a rural first-aid post, grocery and hardware stores, great restaurants, travel companies and guiding services. In fact, you can even find some creative luxuries, like a wood-burning stove assisted sauna at the El Mosco hostel, and the wood-burning hot tubs at the Robinson Crusoe Lodge.

excursion aboard the L/M. Quetru to the O’Higgins Glacier, fourth largest in Patagonia, with a wall extending 3+ Km and heights in excess of 80 meters.

uuMuseum of Patagonia:

Located in the church built by Father Antonio Ronchi and the local community, this museum contains exhibits demonstrating the history of the area, the life and works of Padre Ronchi, and antiques from the

uuBird

watching: Just outside of town you’ll find wonderful settings for wildlife and bird watching.

uuFly-fishing:

The many rivers, streams, and lakes of this sector are brimming with an abundance of fish. Find a local guide and head to the water!

uuCycling

Routes: You can rent bikes in town and enjoy several short circuits that will create your own experiences and memories of cycling on the Carretera Austral.

uuEl Tigre Glacier Hiking: 24 Km north of

town, you can partake in a 10 Km guided hike to the El Tigre Glacier which affords spectacular views of both the Glacier, and the Cisne Lake Valley.

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What to do in Villa O’Higgins and the surrounding area? uuO’Higgins Glacier Tour: Full day boat

trip to Mayer River & Lake Christie Sector: This valley is still one of the most remote in Patagonia, maintaining an atmosphere of pioneers and frontiers.

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TRAVELERS’ TIPS Consider that in Villa O’Higgins there are no banks or ATMs, and no one takes credit cards - so bring cash. The nearest bank is in the town of Cochrane and will accept some international ATM networks but will not accept credit cards.

OVERVIEW »»Activity Type: Orientation to Villa O’Higgins

»»Where to Start: Villa O’Higgins. »»Place of Term: Villa O’Higgins. »»Travel Distance: Villa O’Higgins

is located 230 km south of Cochrane at the end of the Carretera Austral.

»»Duration of the activity: 2 – 10 days. »»Seasonality: Year Round. »»Special Considerations: If pric-

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es seem expensive in this locality consider their reality: transporting goods from far away cities, like Santiago or Puerto Montt, to such a remote place, literally situated at the end of the road, is a costly proposition, producing higher costs for all. That’s one big reason that life seems much simpler here. People from the Villa live with the basics, fix things when they break, and reuse everything that they can.

»»Reservations:

There are a mix of self-guided activities and guided activities offered in the area. Most are detailed in this guide, where you will find more information on the itineraries and suppliers.

CALLING ALL BIRD LOVERS - GRAB YOUR BINOCULARS!

This is a beautiful and relaxing, guided interpretive walk, for bird lovers and those curious to learn more. You’ll go deep into the native forest surrounding Villa O’Higgins to observe and understand the relationship between the various species which habitat the forests of Patagonia and the Patagonian Andes.

If you enjoy bird watching, or are curious to learn more, you are in for a great experience.

Mauricio Melgarejo, the Director of Tsonek Expeditions, describes his team’s experience and approach: “We combine the disciplines of ornithology, botany and entomology to show you the fascinating ecosystems that surround us in a special way – you’ll breathe in the freshest air of the planet and discover the wonder around you with every step we take”.

The walking circuit begins at the Tsonek Eco-camping Area, where your guide will evaluate the conditions and interests of the group, provide you with binoculars, scopes, and field guides, to facilitate better observation and identification of the bird species typically found in the forest, valley bottoms, wetlands, and lagoons. The excursion is intended not only for bird watching; but also, for exploring the interrelationships between different bird species and the rest of the ecosystem.

Birds usually spotted during this excursion include the southern crested caracara or carancho (caracara plancus), the kestrel (falco sparverius), the red-backed hawk (buteo polyosoma), the southern house wren

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(troglodytes musculus), the Patagonian sierra-finch (phrygilus patagonicus), the Magellanic tapaculo (scytalopus magellanicus), the Andean condor (vultur gryphus), the black-throated huet-huet (pteroptochos tarnii), the tufted tit-tyrant (anairetes parulus), the fire-eyed diucon (xolmis pyrope) and the Magellanic or black woodpecker (campephilus magellanicus), among others.

Apart from the species inhabiting the region, you can also find various migratory species, depending on the season and the conditions.

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OVERVIEW »»Activity Type: Guided bird watching

perfect for all who have an interest in understanding the local ecosystem, including children, 8 years old and up.

»»Start:

Villa O’Higgins, Tsonek Ecocamping & Expediciones.

»»End:

Villa O’Higgins, Tsonek Ecocamping & Expediciones.

»»Distance: 3 - 7 km. »»Duration: 2 - 7 hours. »»Seasonality: Year Round. »»Special Considerations:

Dress properly for cold weather, with layers you can take on or off, as the temperatures rise during the morning. Trips generally head out early, around 6:00, in order to capture the best hours of bird activity. Groups are normally comprised of 2 – 4 persons, of ages 8 and up.

»»Reservations: This circuit is offered

by Mauricio Melgarejo, of Tsonek Ecocamping y Expediciones, located 1.6 km north of the entrance of Villa O’Higgins, along the Carretera Austral; (09)78929695; info@tsonek. cl; www.tsonek.cl.

HIKING TO THE MOSCO RIVER GLACIER

This great one or two day trekking route climbs Cerro Santiago on trails which follow the banks of the Mosco River, passing through lush native forest and a series of lookout points, to the foot of the Mosco Glacier. This is a great hike to do on your own or with one of the local guides in Villa O’Higgins, who can teach you about local flora and fauna you will observe along the trail.

This hike provides a range of physical and technical challenges; the first sections are suitable for everyone, including families. The biggest challenge you’ll find in these first sections is forcing yourself to turn back as the going gets a bit more technical; the beauty of the area is sure to tempt you to keep going. If you do, please make safety a priority as you will be required to cross streams and slippery areas of moraine in later sections of the hike.

The hike begins at the Cerro Santiago trail head in the town’s center and heads east.

Once you reach the CONAF Guard Post, look for the trail head markers. This trail is well marked, using various mechanisms, including horizontal red and yellow bars painted on trees, rock cairns, and wooden stakes in the ground. The trail ascends through a series of switchbacks for roughly three km, merging with the alternative entrance coming from the Carretera Austral. You’ll pass burned tree trunks from historic forest fires before reaching an overlook offering impressive views of the Mosco and Mayer River Valleys.

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The trail continues to climb, entering an extremely dense lenga and coigüe forest. In this section it’s important to keep alert for trail markers every ten to twenty meters to confirm the trail. When the trail levels off, you will begin to encounter several river and stream crossings, with rustic bridges, that when wet, can be extremely slick so cross with caution. Soon, you’ll descend to the edge of the Mosco River. Although there is a wooden walkway over the river, DO NOT TAKE THIS, if your goal is to see the Mosco Glacier. Instead, continue on the trail marked with horizontal red and yellow bars painted

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TRAVELERS’ TIPS Along the route there are some shelters that can be used for camping or to get out of bad weather. If you plan to overnight hike, check in at the Conaf guard shelter, to make sure the shelters are not already reserved. on the trees, winding its way to the Claro River. Here, a marked section indicates a short, but technical, river crossing. Use judgment in this section; if the water is high and powerful, turn around and head back to Villa O’Higgins. NEVER CROSS ALONE. If you do not have previous experience with river crossings, we suggest hiring a guide in town who can assist and teach you the techniques.

Once across the river, the trial begins to climb steeply over large rocks and boulders.

This section may require crawling and scrambling, as you maneuver up the steep slope.

Use extreme caution when doing this, as the rock can be loose. A technique to use is to spread out your group, allowing a safe distance between members, so that, if a rock falls it does not injure another group member. At the top of this climb, you need to cross the Mosco River. As before, use good judgment and technique.

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The next section leads to the impressive (25 m), Mosco River waterfall. Look for signage, which will be posted on the north side of the cliff from which this waterfall descends. This indicates your route for the final climb. Again, you’ll employ a hands and knees scramble to safely maneuver the slope. It’s worth the work. At the summit of this hike, you’ll be rewarded with views of the Fria Lagoon, fed by glacial melt coming off the Mosco Glacier and draining into the headwaters of the Mosco River. Some surrounding peaks include Cerro Mirador (1,788 m), Cerro Catalina (1,894 m), and Cerro White Huemul (2,230 m), which is the highest peak in the Mosco Valley. Return to town along the same path, following the markings, which can be found on both sides of trees and rock cairns.

OVERVIEW »»Activity Type: Hiking. »»Start: The main entrance

point is from the CONAF guard station just outside of town. The trail head can also be accessed outside of town to the north along the Carretera Austral, marked by a small roadside sign.

»»Place of Term: Villa O’Higgins. »»Distance: 20.8 km (round-trip). »»Duration: 8 - 10 hours. »»Seasonality: October – March. »»Special Considerations: Families

are recommended to turn back to Villa O’Higgins when the slope becomes steep, before the river crossings.

You’ll want trekking boots and poles, layered and waterproof clothing, sunglasses, a brimmed hat and sunscreen.

Carry water, a snack, and your camera.

»»Reservations:

There are several guides in Villa O’Higgins who offer this trek , including:

•

•

•

•

Alonso Díaz (Coya), Excursiones Entre Patagones – Carretera Austral, located in the north entrance to town; (067) 2431810; (09) 66215046; www.entrepatagones.cl; info@entrepatagones.cl.

Mauricio Melgarejo, Tsonek Expediciones – Carretera Austral, 1.6 km north of town; (09) 78929695; www.tsonek.cl; info@tsonek. cl.

Hans Silva, Villa O’Higgins Expediciones – Carretera Austral, Km 1240; (067) 2431831 - 2431832; www.villaohiggins.com; contacto@villaohiggins.com.

Andrea Rosas, Vulturpatagonia Lago Cisne 215; (09) 93508156; andrearosast@gmail.com.

JOIN THE ELITE FEW WHO HAVE CYCLED THE CARRETERA AUSTRAL

Chile’s Carretera Austral is an international icon for distance cycling. Biking the entire route takes months of training, precise planning, and expensive gear; however, we’ve got a plan that allows everyone to sample a bit of the experience.

By this point in your travels along the Carretera Austral, you’ve likely passed almost as many cyclists as sheep. With fully loaded bikes that carry all their supplies, these hardcore road warriors travel the world over, on multi-month, or in some cases, multi-year journeys.

Chile’s Carretera Austral is the Holy Grail for distance cyclists.

Most begin their journey through this part of Patagonia some 1,240 kilometers north of Villa O’Higgins, in the city of Puerto Montt and follow the Carretera Austral south for its entirety, stopping only for obligatory crossings in ferries. As these bikers descend, the world surrounding them becomes wilder and more remote, and the road degrades from pavement to gravel. They press on, in their quest for the ultimate prize; reaching the docks of Puerto Bahamondes where they can pose for a picture under the sign indicating “The end of the Carretera Austral” before boarding El Quetru, to take them across Lago O’Higgins for passage into Argentina.

Circuit 1: Villa O’Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes. uuDistance: 14 km, out and back. uuDuration: 1 - 3 hours.

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Biking the entire route takes months of training, precise planning, and expensive gear; however, everyone can get a feel for the experience. Bike day rentals are available in Villa O’Higgins, from the Robinson Crusoe Lodge, and we have three great routes that will help you make your own memories of biking the Carretera Austral.

Your challenge is to enjoy the beautiful sights, sounds, and aromas, as you chart your course toward the end of this worldfamous ride.

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uuSeasonality: Year round. uuThe Route: Head south along the Car-

retera Austral, passing the Los Corrales sector and the shores of the Mosco River. You’ll cross over the Grosse Bridge, and then follow the shore of the river, which soon empties into O’Higgins Lake. You’ll pass several shipyards during the ride, some of which are historical milestones for the settlement of the lake and surrounding areas. Your ending point is the Bahamondes dock, where you will find boats offering transport and tourism services for the lake. Remember to look for the sign that marks the end of the Carretera Austral!!! Like other bikers around the world who have reached this point on

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TRAVELERS’ TIPS To rent bikes, contact Hans Silva, Villa O’Higgins Expeditions – Carretera Austral, Km 1240; (067) 2431831 2431832; contacto@villaohiggins. com; www.villaohiggins.com, or the Robinson Crusoe - Deep Patagonia Lodge, located on the other side of the Carretera Austral (02) 23341503 -23341504 / (067) 2431909; info@robinsoncrusoe.com; www.robinsoncrusoe.com. two-wheels, you need your picture to commemorate this special ride!

Route 2: Villa O’Higgins to Cisnes Lake. uuDistance: 32 km, out and back. uuDuration: 2 - 4 hours. uuSeasonality: Year round. uuThe Circuit: Head north along the Car-

retera Austral, passing through beautiful native forests and over the Mayer River, via the Van Schouwen Bridge.

Continue along the road to the shores of Cisnes Lake. Here you can explore the southeast shore of the lake, turning around at the bridge that crosses the river, which is the drainage of the lake.

This route is great for combining bird watching or fishing activities. There are many places where you can leave your bike and approach to the lake or advance into the forest.

Circuit 3: Villa O’Higgins to the community chapel built by Padre Ronchi and the Mayer River. uuDistance: 52 km, out and back. uuDuration: 5 - 6 hours. uuSeasonality: Year round. uuThe Route: Ride north from town on

the Carretera Austral for 7.5 km to the crossroad for Entrada Mayer, just before the Van Schouwen Bridge. Turn right to follow this side road. The route passes forests, wetlands and many lagoons alongside the road. You will have good chances to spot Huemules and a variety of Patagonian birds, including

the ringed kingfisher and the Magellanic or black woodpecker. This route ends at the charming little chapel, set back in a small meadow on the right side of the road, built by the local community and Fr. Antonio Ronchi, about 18 km from the crossing.

When traveling by bike, it is important to remember that on gravel roads it is more difficult for other vehicles to see you, because of the dust. In Patagonia, there are no bike lanes for cyclists and the sides of the roads are narrow to non-existent. Therefore, as a general rule, cyclists must increase the chances that other drivers will see them by wearing reflective clothing, using headlights and reflectors, etc. Always keep to your right and be prepared to get off the road to avoid collisions. Uphill, and in curved areas, it is important to be visible always from both directions of the road. Finally, be alert for animals; they can cross unexpectedly.

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CRUISE THROUGH THE WATERS OF PATAGONIA’S GIANTS

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O’Higgins is the fourth largest of all Patagonia’s Glaciers and one of the most beautiful, thanks to the purity of its ice and the contrasting colors of another turquoise giant: O’Higgins Lake. This visit to the frontal wall, which descends from the Southern Patagonia Ice Fields, provides a full day of navigation through some of the most stunning scenery of Aysén.

The southern reaches of the Aysén Region are the home for giants; enormous geographic landmarks of incredible mass and beauty. Let’s start with the bi-national lake through which you will sail on this adventure: O’Higgins of the Chilean side, San Martin of the Argentinian side. This lake is one of South America’s largest, with an area of 1,013 km², spread out like a giant octopus.

It has a maximum recorded depth of 836 m, earning it the honor of being the deepest in all of the Americas and the fifth deepest in the world. The most striking feature for most of its visitors is its intense turquoise color, produced by the large amount of sediments that flow into the lake from the glaciers of the Southern Patagonia Ice Fields.

You’ll set sail at 8:30 a.m., from Port Bahamondes, located 7 km south of Villa O’Higgins, on scheduled tour days. You’ll travel aboard the Quetru, a modern wellequipped vessel, which accommodates up to 70 persons and is capable of sailing in a variety of weather conditions. When the skies are clear and the wind is calm, the navigation is extremely relaxing, and you’ll want to head to the top deck for the best views of the mountains and hanging glaciers that surround you. But when the weather conditions are not favorable, the O’Higgins Lake becomes a not-so-gentle giant, with 4 meter waves and wind that can reach 50 knots (92 km/h). That is why it is important to allow a few days in your itinerary for this excursion in case the sailing is delayed by a day or two, waiting for the winds to subside.

Glacier O’Higgins forms a frontal wall for another of this area’s giants, the Southern Patagonia Ice Field; third biggest extension of continental ice, after Antarctica

OVERVIEW

and Greenland. As you navigate the waters toward the frontal wall of the glacier, the icebergs floating quietly in the water begin to become more and more frequent, until eventually the huge mass of ancient ice descending from Southern Patagonia Ice Fields is revealed. The boat will take you within a few meters of the immense wall of the giant O’Higgins Glacier which is 3 km in width and 80 m in height. Here, you’ll have ample time and opportunity to admire the shape of the ice, with its abrupt cuts and angles in some places and soft curves in others. You will probably be treated to the loud sounds and explosions of pure whites, deep blues and pale turquoises produced from the constant calving of this glaciers’ ancient ice.

observation.

»»Start:

Bahía Bahamondes dock, 7 Km south of Villa O’Higgins.

»»End: Bahía Bahamondes dock, 7 Km south of Villa O’Higgins.

»»Distance: Approximately 90 km. »»Duration: 10 hours »»Seasonality: November - March. »»Special Considerations: If you’re

prone to seasickness, bring medicine. High winds or storms can suspend programmed excursions; plan at least two days in your itinerary to allow for a good window of weather.

»»Reservations: It is advisable to book well in advance to ensure your place in the boat. The Quetru is operated

by Robinson Crusoe – Deep Patagonia; their lodge is located along the Carretera Austral, Km 1240; (02) 23341503 - 23341504; (067) 2431909; info@robinsoncrusoe. com; www.robinsoncrusoe.com.

You can book Online.

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To celebrate your voyage, you’ll be treated to a glass of whiskey, or even better - a Chilean pisco, with ice from the O’Higgins Glacier before beginning the return to Villa O’Higgins. Both on the outbound and the return, you’ll make a brief stop in Candelario Mansilla, to drop off and pick up passengers embarking on the trekking between Chile and El Chaltén, Argentina.

»»Activity Type: Navigation and glacier

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CROSS THE PATAGONIAN ANDES TOWARD ICONIC MOUNT FITZ ROY

There are still no roads through the last kilometers of the Aysén Region but that doesn’t deter the true adventurers who hike across the border on foot from Candelario Mansilla to El Chaltén, (many with bikes in hand)! Accompanied by incredible views of majestic Mount Fitz Roy and the Desierto Lagoon, this 34 km hike is one of this part of Patagonia’s greatest secrets.

This incredible hike takes you across the Patagonian Andes from Candelario Mansilla, Chile, to El Chaltén, Argentina, crossing the borders in the back-country, by foot.

Although it sounds pretty extreme, it is not necessary to be a trekking specialist or even to be in incredible shape for this crossing.

You’ll just want to plan your expedition well: carry the right amount and kinds of gear, organize the logistics on both ends and leave yourself a few days so that you can go at a relaxing pace.

You’ll start in Puerto Bahamondes, seven km from Villa O’Higgins, where you will need to pay the fees and take the Quetru across the lake. It’s around three hours navigating to Candelario Mansilla, where you can disembark at the morning stop OR continue aboard to take the day long excursion to the O’Higgins Glacier (costs a bit more but completely worth it), and disembark in Candelario Mansilla in the afternoon, on the way back.

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Candelario Mansilla is named in honor of the first Chilean settler to make these isolated land his home. Today, it consists of a tiny harbor, a border control post, and the home of Don Mansilla’s descendants who have created a campground and rural hospedaje to meet the needs of a growing number of hikers. The inn’s four rooms are very basic, and share a bathroom with the family, but, the homemade meals are delicious and filling, especially before heading out on the trail. When you disembark from the Quetru, you can spend the night or immediately begin your hike, continuing the upward climb along a wide gravel road that winds above O’Higgins Lake and eventually levels off, in route toward a small airstrip. Either way, you’ll need to head up the hill to the Chilean Border Control to process your paperwork for crossing into Argentina.

The first 12 kilometers wind up the mountain along an easy but very uneven gravel road.

Most hikers opt to hitch a ride from the Chilean Guard Station to the airstrip for around $5.000 CLP. After the airstrip, you’ll enter a beautiful 10 kilometers of trail that wind through high mountain fields and forests, bordering high mountain lagoons, like the Redonda and the Larga, and crossing over the border between Chile and Argentina.

The welcome signs marking your departure/ entry are a great spot for photos! As you make your way down the mountain toward the Argentine Border Control there are incredible views of Mt. Fitz Roy and the Desierto Lagoon. Be able to access your personal identification, passports, visas, and other relevant paperwork. After clearing customs on the Argentine side of the mountain, around kilometer 22, you’ll walk across a big field toward a rocky shoreline and resume the trail for the last 12 km stretch to the other end of the lake, (on the Argentina side, the lagoon is referred to as a lake).

The trail is well marked, with small metal arrows that lead you through the rolling hills.

Around Km 6, after a long climb, the trail arrives at a rocky vista with a breathtaking view of Mt. Fitz Roy and Laguna/Lago del Desierto. This stop serves as a good place for a rest and a snack. Next, the trail gradually descends rolling hills returning you to

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Mt. Fitz Roy will be getting closer with every kilometer you walk so have your camera handy.

the shores of the lake. From here you’ll wind along the shore until you reach the dock area. The final two kilometers cross ancient glacial moraine and a few streams before finally ending at a small wooden footbridge in the forest. From the trail’s endpoint it’s another 34 kilometers by road to El Chaltén, so unless you are a HARD-CORE hiker, we recommend pre-arranging for a transfer.

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OVERVIEW

»»Activity king

Type: Navigation and trek-

»»Start : Villa O’Higgins, Chile »»End: El Chaltén , Argentina »»Distance: 34 Km trekking

and approximately 70 km in boat and bus transfers.

»»Duration: 2 days. »»Seasonality: November or December

- March (Depends on the schedules for the Quetru)

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»»Special Considerations:

When operating, you can choose whether to hike the last 13 kilometers or pay and travel via the Argentine ferry, El Huemul.

The trail is hard to maneuver with a bike loaded with gear. Distance bikers should remove pedals and push in some sections. We suggest carrying your gear in a backpack, hiring a porter service or, when in operation, you can send your bike along ahead on the ferry, El Huemul, for a fee. Pack clothing for warm weather, rain, and wind, and extra layers, in case of bad

weather, which often comes in quickly and unexpectedly. Hike in shoes that are well broken in and can handle multiple terrains. Be sure to pack extra water and food.

»»Reservations:

Absolutely necessary (well in advance), to ensure your place on the boat. The Quetru is operated by Robinson Crusoe – Deep Patagonia; their lodge is located along the Carretera Austral, Km 1240; (02) 23341503 - 23341504; (067) 2431909; info@robinsoncrusoe.com; www. robinsoncrusoe.com. You can book Online. They can also help you with logistics for accommodations in Candelario Mansilla. To arrange transfer from the trail-head into El Chaltén, we recommend contacting Walk Patagonia - Av. Antonio Rojo 62, Office 2, El Chaltén C.P. 9301, Santa Cruz; Argentina; www.walkpatagonia.com; info@walkpatagonia. com; (5402962) 493275; (5402966) 15577444.

BIODIVERSITY PRESENT IN THE BAKER - O’HIGGINS AREA Among the flora and fauna that you can see, are: Trees and Shrubs: Poplar or Alamo (Populus nigra - Intro-

duced); Araurcaria chilean (Araucaria araucana - Introduced); Arrayán (Luma apiculata); El Calafate (Berberis buxifolia); Canelo (Drimys winteri); Chaura (Pernettya mucronata); Chilco (Fuchsia magellanica); Cypress of the Guaitecas (Pilgerodendron uviferum); Ciruelillo or Notro (Embothrium coccineum); Coigüe (Nothofagus dombeyi); Coigüe Chiloe (Nothofagus nitida); Magellan Coigüe (Nothofagus betuloides); Luma (Amomyrtus luma); Maitén (Maytenus boaria); Short Needled Mañío (Saxegothaea conspicua); Pointed Leaf Mañío (Podocarpus nubigenus); Michay (Berberis ilicifolia); Murtilla (Empetrum rubrum); Ñirre (Nothofagus antarctica); Mosqueta Rose (Rosa rubiginosa - introduced); Willow or Sauce (Salix humboldtiana - Introduced); Tepu (Tepualia stipularis)

Flowers and Canes:

Mosses, fungi and Ferns: Ampe or Palmita (Lophosoria cuadripinnata quadripinnata); Old Man’s Beard (Usnea barbata); Cow’s Rib Fern (Blechnum chilense); Diguene of Coigüe (Cyttaria harioti); Diguene of Ñirre (Cyttaria darwinii); Fuinque (Lomatia ferruginea); Large Palmetto Fern (blech-num magellanicum); Filmy Fern (vascular epiphytes species or vascular epiphytes species dentatum pectinatum); Feather Fern (Blechnum penna - marina); Morilla does (Morchella conica) ; Pinito Moss (Dendroligotrichum dendroides); nalca or Pangue (Gunnera tinctoria); Palmita (Lycopodium paniculatum); Palomita (Codonorchis lessonii); Frog’s Umbrella (Hy-

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Astelia (Astelia pumila); Coligüe Cane (Chusquea culeou); Coicopihue (Philesia magellanica); dandelion or chicory (Taraxacum officinale); Wild strawberries (Fragaria chiloensis); reed or Juncillo (Marsippospermum grandiflorum); Mata Negra (Chilitrichum diffusum); neneo (Mulimum spinosum); Panguecito or Devil’s Strawberry (Gunnera magellanica); Yellow Retamo or Scotch Broom (Spartium junceum - introduced); Swamp Violet (Drosera uniflora)

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