INTRODUCTION
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE Within this guide and on our web site, www.UndiscoveredPatagonia.com, you’ll find information and resources to help you design a unique journey through Patagonia, exploring amazing wilderness areas and quaint small villages in the region of Aysén. We’ll introduce you to a region full of life and biodiversity, incredible scenery, rich flavors, music and dance, fascinating people and things to do! Get your cameras ready to capture the unique light and landscapes within the pristine Patagonian wilderness you’ll visit and prepare your hearts for a local culture filled with men and women who embrace the very definition of self-reliance, independence and rural tradition. We’ll share secrets that will help you to explore every corner of Aysén, preparing you to immerse yourself in the authentic and unique, unlike any other guide you’ll encounter.
INTRODUCTION 12
In the first section, we’ll help you prepare for coming to Patagonia with practical tips for planning a successful trip; one that’s tailored to your preferences for adventure, safety and relaxation. You’ll be presented with options for traveling to, from, and all around the region, tips to help you choose where and when to visit, and explanations of the differences in each of the five cultural areas that make up the Region of Aysén.
Why are there five different areas? Look at the territory of Aysén on a map. It’s huge! And the landscape is completely different from the rest of Chile. Begin toward the west, with the area of the Fjords and Channels. For Chileans part of learning geography in school involved drawing the map of South America, and the worst
nightmare was when you were chosen as the student to draw the southern cone, because you could spend hours and hours sketching the hundreds of small, seemingly endless islands and islets of Patagonian Aysén. Can you imagine? These archipelagos extend from the mountains along the coast, but, here, as a result of tectonic movements and the numerous glaciations that have impacted the area, the mountains have been fractured into thousands of intricate parts, like a giant jigsaw picture. It may be a nightmare to draw, but it is a tremendous privilege to navigate within this tangled web of islands, sailing amongst shorelines filled with impenetrable evergreen forests that slip down into the sea. Look again at the map of Aysén, this time toward the middle and compare it to the map of Chile’s entirety. You’ll notice that most of Chile is dominated by a well-formed central valley nestled between the two mountain ranges that run north to south, In Aysén, this valley does not exist! Instead, you’ll find the Moraleda Channel, the main route of maritime navigation for the region. The cordillera of the Andes begins almost immediately upon reaching the mainland, jetting up from sea-level with abrupt changes in altitude and the still-present ice of the last glacial advances. Between these mountain ranges and the fragmented coastline, there are huge watersheds of freshwater rivers and lakes; liquid giants of mythical Patagonian proportions! A few of the most legendary examples include the mighty Baker, the most powerful
river of Chile, and the General Carrera Lake, the second largest in South America. Need we say more about the unique physical characteristics of Aysén? Well yes, it is definitely worth mentioning that this region is home to the Northern and Southern Patagonia Ice Fields, which are the third largest extension of continental ice in the world, after Antarctica and Greenland. Wondering where the villages fit in with all this enormous nature? Without doubt, the amazing diversity of landscapes and ecosystems that exist in the region have profoundly influenced the development of Aysén, dictating where, how and why people chose to settle in a particular place. Most of the populated areas are located in the relatively small valleys between the mountains, often dispersed in relatively great distances from each other, sprinkled from La Junta in the north to Villa O’Higgins in the south and from the islands in the west to the pampas of the eastern side of the Patagonian Andes, near the border with Argentina. Until relatively recently (50 years ago, give or take), there were no roads connecting these villages and contact between the small settlements was extremely difficult. People traveled for days and weeks via horse, or challenged the waters and the wind, sailing through the fjords, lakes or rivers in small boats, to reach the ports where they could access medical services, schools and commerce. Many times the weather conditions of the zone meant
months of complete isolation, waiting for passable breaks that would allow for safe travel. Geographic factors influenced not only the location of settlements; but also, the formation of different cultural identities within the region. For example, the culture of the fjords is very different to that of the communities around General Carrera Lake (also known as Chelenko). As you travel through Aysén, you will have the opportunity to explore five distinct areas, each with its own cultural identity, forged in connection with its particular history, geography and biodiversity: Palena - Queulat, Fjords and Channels, Aysén Simpson, Chelenko, and Baker - O’Higgins. To experience them all in their entirety you’d need years and perhaps lifetimes! We know you have limited time and resources so we have divided each zone into interesting itineraries that will allow you to experience the landscapes, nature and people for yourself, without spending all your time on buses, vehicles and ferries.
A chapter for each zone The guide consists of 5 main chapters, which provide all the tools to plan your own unique adventure, tailored to your tastes, needs and time. Each chapter represents one of the five cultural areas, starting with a cultural map that summarizes the geography and lays out the location of towns, activities and natural areas. Then, we present a traveler’s blog and
INTRODUCTION 13
itinerary for the zone, which will help you get a feel for timing, logistics and the experiences of other travelers. The rest of each chapter focuses on in-depth descriptions of the experiences and adventures of our blogger and of other travelers, with detailed information that makes it possible for you to do them yourself. Each is presented as a short feature, which provides you with context, descriptions of the routes, fun details, contacts, and technical information. At the end of each chapter you have a list of some of the species that make up the complex biodiversity present in the area. It’s definitely not a complete list (we’d have to write another book to provide you with that), but it does give those seeking a little more scientific information a good start. What happens if you do not find what you are looking for in the articles? ¡Easy! Visit our web site, (www.UndiscoveredPatagonia.com), where you can access and download lots of additional information including contacts, photos, videos, and GPS routes in Google Earth for each tour.
Aysén is a destination in constant evolution. Each year there are new trails, paths, roads, guides, restaurants, hotels and events. Our commitment is to keep the tools of our website updated in the most complete way possible, so you’ll always have a reliable source to help you plan your trip. But, because we live in a region that’s in constant change, we depend on our community of independent travelers to support the success of our never ending work. When you finish your trip, we want and need you to pass along your impressions, data, photos, videos, links and blogs; your input will help us to improve our information and recommendations, and complement the content with a true expert traveler’s opinion about what you liked and what you want to improve.
Share your experiences and become part of our Undiscovered Patagonia!
A PATAGONIA TO DISCOVER: FIVE CHAPTERS, FIVE CULTURAL AREAS AND MORE THAN 100 EXPERIENCES We’ve already described the diversity of landscapes, ecosystems and geography in Aysén and explained how the resulting isolation has influenced the formation of different cultural identities: five different areas within the same region of Patagonia, each with unique characteristics and traditions that connect the communities with their ecosystems and biodiversity. In this article we explain a bit more about each of these areas: Palena – Queulat, Fjords and Channels, Aysén - Simpson, Chelenko, and Baker - O’Higgins.
INTRODUCTION 14
It won’t be easy to decide what to visit or where to begin your adventure in Aysén; but, before you begin setting goals, let us share a bit of gaucho wisdom. One of the most popular sayings in this part of Patagonia goes: “el que se apura pierde el tiempo”, (those
that hurry lose time), and it’s SO true! Patagonia moves at its own pace and trying to force your normal velocity is like dancing salsa to bluegrass. Here, you’ll need to change your rhythm; the only way to discover the richness, the secrets, the distinctions, and
the beauty of Aysén is to leave behind the hectic pace of modern life. Said simply: the magic of Patagonia lies in discovering the contrasts between its enormous, sweeping landscapes and the infinite, minuscule details of its nature and culture. There’s so much to discover! Like why the coastline is dismembered with so many islands and why the mountains are so challenging even though their altitudes don’t seem daunting. Where are the best places to see huemules, condors, tiny frogs and giant whales? Why does the entire world drink mate here? How you can be included in this special ritual that guarantees interesting conversation and the occasion for sharing stories and legends with gauchos. Who were the mysterious indigenous peoples who roamed these lands long before the settlers who arrived much more recently? Who was Father Antonio Ronchi? What are troperos, chilotes and gauchos? How has the culture and traditions of Aysén evolved with modernity, technology and other outside influences? You’ll discover why the food here tastes so good, local myths and legends, (like the practice of eating calafate to guarantee you’ll return to these lands), and local customs like drinking wine from a bota. Taking your time opens up the opportunity to get to know incredible people like Senora “Tati”, Werner Bleicher, Luis Soto, Maria Griselda Nahuel and many others; sons and daughters of pioneers and more recent immigrants who came as travelers, like you, and who loved Aysén so much they decided to stay forever. All these small details and special treasures await if you remember the gaucho advice of slowing down and relaxing as you make your way through the cultural areas of Aysén.
Before these roads, movement within the
The expansion of roads, with the Carretera Austral as the central axis, changed everything. Today you can travel the region of Aysén from tip to tip in a little over a day, and laterally, from east to west in a little over 4 hours. People can access services more easily and the speed with which modernity has arrived has been amazing and a little overwhelming Today the majority of Ayséninos enjoy their wifi, their cellular, their cable, and their connectivity as much as anyone else. Nevertheless, while the pioneers of Aysén are no longer so isolated, they remain proud of their roots and traditions, they work tirelessly for their rights and the possibility to continue to grow without losing the natural paradise in which they live. This is a unique place and the people who call it home know how special it is; that’s one of the reasons for
INTRODUCTION
One of the things you’ll likely observe as you begin to travel through the region and talk to its people, is the “before and after” distinctions that are associated with the roads: in particular, the Carretera Austral or Southern Highway (Route 7) that runs north to south and various lateral roads that cross the region, east to west. And we are not talking about an “after” that began centuries ago; the “after” in Aysén began in earnest, just three or four decades ago. In many areas, the roads are literally brand new; in fact, there are many roads that are still under construction as we write.
Region was extremely difficult and slow. If a person needed to move their animals to market, go to the doctor or school, or even just go to the capital to handle some sort of paperwork with the regional government, they often ended up traveling for weeks! Getting to and from the ports and cities usually meant some combination of walking hours and days along rustic trails, horseback riding for weeks, taking a boat (always subject to weather conditions), crossing over to Argentina to access their roads, or taking a plane (if you had the resources). And of course, there was no formal food and lodging infrastructure for travelers; thus, out of necessity, a special and unique form of hospitality emerged in the Region of Aysén; an informal system based on the concept of mutual need and respect. Settlers throughout the region welcomed travelers into their houses and farms, always ready with a yerba mate, a bowl of soup and a place to sleep. And travelers didn’t arrive empty-handed. They were accustomed to bringing along additional cargo, special packages, long-awaited equipment, medicine, correspondence and news from the outside; all of the things that isolated families couldn’t wait to receive! The system strangely combined traveler services with rural mail delivery and it worked for the better part of 100 years. The heritage of this system is this reason that “hospitality” in Aysén is SO much more than an industry, it is tradition, part of our values, an important aspect of the concept of being “gaucho”. It is something that runs in our veins and a special part of our history and identity.
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the growing interest in the development of forms of tourism that enable Ayséninos to share their special places and people with you in a way that allows them to maintain their traditions and identity. Each year there are more professionals from the region obtaining training, certifications and skills so that they can assist you with your travels through the distinct areas and experiences we’ll describe in this guide.
Let’s start with the area of Palena Queulat, in the northern part of the Region, Here, you can hike the famous trails
of Queulat National Park, kayak down the Palena River, fly-fish in the Rosselot River and relax in the fabulous hot-springs near Puyuhuapi. All this, and much more awaits you in Palena - Queulat, an area of the region that is characterized by an incredibly diverse geography, which reaches from the fjords along the coast to the pampas to the east, and includes giant mountain peaks, rich fertile valleys, nearly impenetrable forests, volcanoes, glaciers and more water than you can ever imagine! This area was populated from the coastal areas toward the interior; settlers rowed up the Palena River in makeshift boats, loaded down with themselves, their animals, basic supplies and a lot of courage. They brought traditions and practices from their points of origin, Chiloe, Germany, Argentina and of course, from the central zone of Chile. When you visit you will enjoy the unique blend of these influences in their customs and stories and especially in their gastronomy: Asados al Palo (roasted lamb), cazuelas (stews), fish and seafood, pastas, artisan-crafted beers and cheeses and pastries, like küchen. Palena – Queulat offers visitors a great sample of the diversity of Aysén!
INTRODUCTION 16
uuPopulation
centers: La Junta, Raúl Marín Balmaceda, Lago Verde, Puyuhuapi, Villa Amengual, La Tapera
uuHighlights:
Includes a wide variety of ecosystems and geographies, with coastal areas, valleys and steppe. You can visit Queulat National Park, kayak rivers like the Palena or the fjord of Puyuhuapi, relax in hot springs, fish rivers and lakes such as Rosselot and Lago las Torres, walk along sandy beaches in Raúl Marín Balmaceda or learn about
gaucho traditions in the grasslands and steppe of Lago Verde, La Tapera and Alto Río Cisnes.
uuGeopolitical
Associations: The Palena – Queulat area includes parts of the comunas of Lago Verde and Cisnes.
The second area, Fjords and Channels, lies to the west of the region, extending from the archipelago of the Guaitecas to the north, to the archipelago of the Chonos to the south. This area differs
from the rest of the region, consisting of a tangled geography of islands, fjords and channels, and cultural traditions deeply rooted in the sea. Many of the islands of the fjords and channels of Aysén were first visited by nomadic canoe peoples, now extinct, who came in search of food and shelter. Modern-day villages have formed in a fairly haphazard fashion, with the arrival of semi-nomadic workers who came from Chiloe and other areas of Chile, in search of fish, timber and seafood, and eventually decided to settle. The archipelago of the Chonos was the last to be populated when workers arrived to exploit the existence of a type of mussels, called locos. They rapidly assembled makeshift buildings covered with nylon to protect themselves from the rain and cold and soon there were precarious plastic villages where families lived until they could finally stop their work long enough to erect proper communities with names, solidly constructed infrastructure and basic services. These last communities of the Fjords and Channels area were founded as recently as 1999!
(50,000+ persons), and Puerto Aysén (30,000+). Together, these two cities
Infrastructure in many of the islands is still very basic, and life is simple; people don’t depend on the internet or similar technologies, both energy and water are rationed, and stores carry the basics. Local culture remains strongly associated with the resources of the fjords, but little by little, communities are also beginning to think about tourism. The Fjords and Channels are ideal for sailing, seeing marine fauna, look for the treasures of long-gone pirates, and getting to know hundreds of fascinating local characters; fishermen, boat-builders and luche collectors (a local seaweed). Visitors are also sure to enjoy the rich gastronomy of the area, based on products from the sea.
uuPopulation
centers: Melinka, Repollal, Puerto Gala, Puerto Gaviota, Puerto Cisnes, Puerto Aguirre.
uuHighlights:
uuGeopolitical
Dimension: The Fjords and Channels area includes parts of the comunas of Las Guaitecas, Aysén and Cisnes.
Moving south through the region, the next cultural area is Aysén Simpson, home of the largest cities in the region: the capital, Coyhaique
The Aysén – Simpson area offers incredible nature; you can find National Reserves and immense estancias just a couple of kilometers outside the cities. Within their borders, you can trek amongst dense forests, fish in world-class rivers, see how sheep are sheered or come face to face with the Andean Condor.
uuPopulated Centers: Coyhaique, Puerto
Aysén, Villa Mañihuales, Puerto Chacabuco, Ñirehuao, Valle Simpson, Villa Frei, El Blanco, Balmaceda, Villa Ortega, El Gato, Villa de los Torreones, Coyhaique Alto.
uuHighlights:
The area reaches from the fjords in Puerto Chacabuco to the steppe of Coyhaique Alto, Balmaceda and Ñirehuao. Various areas have been heavily impacted by the fires of the
INTRODUCTION
The area is sprinkled with an infinite number of islands and islets; most covered with lush vegetation. You can navigate the waters to view marine wildlife such as birds, sea lions, dolphins and whales, visit trails that wind through evergreen forests, see archaeological sites and learn more about the lives and livelihoods of local artisans and small-scale fishermen.
represent more than 80% of the Region’s population and, while both are still relatively small, as cities go, they provide visitors with a more cosmopolitan experience where you can feel the pace of the city and its traffic, dine in gourmet restaurants, explore the nightlife, and find supermarkets, shopping, banking, public services and all kinds of modern technology. The Aysén – Simpson area offers an interesting balance of modern cosmopolitan culture and small-town, peace and quiet. The Patagonian culture is very much present; people share yerba mate in their homes and offices, you see berets, called boinas, as you walk down the street and many of the restaurants base their menus on local flavors and techniques.
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twentieth century; however, incredible nature still dominates. You can experience urban culture, fish world-class rivers like the Simpson or Paloma, kayak in Elizalde or Los Palos lakes, visit condoreras in Coyhaique Alto, enjoy the arts in Coyhaique, or pedal through valleys brimming with rivers and lagoons.
uuGeopolitical
Dimension: The Aysén – Simpson area includes parts of the comunas of Aysén and Coyhaique.
its dozens of glaciers (Northern Patagonia Ice Fields), the Cerro Castillo and Jeinimeni National Reserves and their amazing hiking trails, or the fertile micro-climates of Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez and Chile Chico, where fruit orchards, farms and greenhouses yield excellent produce, year round.
uuPopulation Centers: Villa Cerro Castil-
lo, Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez, Bahía Murta, Puerto Sánchez, Puerto Tranquilo, Chile Chico, Puerto Guadal.
Chelenko is a diverse geoContinuing south, the next cultural area uuHighlights: graphic area, dominated by the General is Chelenko, located around the shores Carrera Lake, the Northern Patagonia Ice Fields and the big mountains of the of the enormous General Carrera Cerro Castillo and Jeinimeni National Lake. This lake was formerly referred to as Reserves. The vegetation of the area Chelenko, which meant “turbulent waters” for the Tehuelche hunter – gatherers who once roamed these valleys and plains. In fact, this area is home to the greatest concentration of archaeological sites in the region, with cave paintings dating back more than eight thousand years. The area extends west to the Laguna San Rafael National Park and the islands nearby. Different economic activities have dominated this area during its history, including current activities like sheep and cattle ranching; mining, which boomed during the 1950s and 60s, when Aysén was the leading producer of lead and zinc in Chile; navigation, which was associated with both livestock and mining, especially before the construction of roads; and more recently, tourism, as the Chelenko area is home to many of the most visited sites in the region, including General Carrera Lake and its Marble Cathedrals, the San Rafael Lagoon National Park with
INTRODUCTION 18
changes from evergreen forests on the coast, to deciduous forests in the central area and steppe in the east. You can navigate to the marble formations near Puertos Bertrand and Sánchez, trek in Cerro Castillo, Jeinimeni and the San Rafael Lagoon, and visit dozens of glaciers, archaeological sites. In addition, enjoy artisans who celebrate these ancient cultures, horseback ride, or take part in one of the Heritage Festivals that celebrate the traditions of the gauchos.
uuGeopolitical Dimension: The Chelenko
area includes parts of the comunas of Río Ibáñez and Chile Chico.
The final cultural area, Baker O’Higgins, incorporates the southern reaches of the territory, starting with the Baker River to the north, extending west to the southern fjords and reaching south to giant O’Higgins Lake, the gateway for the Southern Patagonia Ice Fields. This area has a longstanding heritage of livestock ranching, with several large ranches, or estancias, in and around the Chacabuco Valley, Cochrane and Villa O’Higgins. Other sectors developed around forest resources, specifically the prized timber of the Guaitecas Cypress, exported from the ports of Caleta Tortel. Villa O’Higgins is the southernmost town of the Region, the end of the Carretera Austral and the gateway to the Southern Patagonia Ice Fields.
the Baker – O’Higgins area. Here, you can get up close and personal with the Patagonian Ice Fields, navigate the powerful Baker River and O’Higgins Lake, trek, or even summit, Mount San Lorenzo, walk across glaciers, or discover the details of an ambitious conservation project in Chacabuco Valley.
uuGeopolitical
Dimension: The Baker – O’Higgins area includes parts of the Chile Chico Comuna and the entire Capitan Prat Province.
This is our invitation: Roads arrived little more than a decade ago in most of this area, opening access to the stunning natural and cultural beauty of this area for visitors and changing the lives of residents in profound ways. You can visit the unique cypress architecture of Caleta Tortel, with its walkways and stairs, observe huemules within the Tamango National Reserve, navigate to the giant O’Higgins Glacier, trek in pristine wilderness like the area of Mount San Lorenzo, or take a “selfie” beside the sign marking the southern end of the mythical Carretera Austral.
uuPopulation Centers: Cochrane, Puerto
Bertrand, Villa O’Higgins, Caleta Tortel and the small hamlet of Puerto Yungay.
Five chapters, five cultural areas and more than a hundred experiences, which allow you to immerse yourself in the culture and nature of Patagonia in Aysén, traveling at a relaxed pace without spending all your time on buses, vehicles and ferries. You can explore a little bit of each of these areas, touring the Carretera Austral, or focus on a single cultural zone and have the opportunity to explore its many contrasts, hidden corners and details. In fact, you are invited to come and explore each of the five cultural zones of Aysén in depth; returning as many times that you want. But we have to warn you now; repeat visits have often converted travelers into new neighbors!
uuHighlights: Forests, crystalline turquoise
lakes, glaciers, rivers and grasslands, make up the complex geography of
INTRODUCTION 19
HOW TO GET TO THE REGION OF AYSÉN
Visitors often think it will be complicated to get to the Aysén Region, but it is actually quite simple. It’s important that you are clear about how much time you have available and where you want to go, since there are distinct ways to reach the different areas of the region and some are faster than others.
Quick and direct? Travel by plane. There are daily flights from Santiago and Puerto Montt to the Balmaceda Airport, located 57 km southeast of Coyhaique, more or less in the center of the region. You can reserve on-line at www.lan.com or www. skyairline.cl. Balmaceda’s airport is small but has all the important services including an ATM, rental car services (www.traeger.cl), a cafeteria, souvenirs and transfers to Coyhaique and Puerto Aysén. It takes approximately 50 minutes to travel from Balmaceda to Coyhaique via transfer (companies: www.transfervalencia.cl, www.tranytur. cl, Transfer Velasquez (067) 2250413) There are also regular daily flights via Aerocord (www.aerocord.cl), from the La Paloma airfield in Puerto Montt, to Melinka, and charter flights to La Junta, Raúl Marín Balmaceda, Puerto Aguirre and Chile Chico. The company uses Twin Otters (19 passengers) and Cessnas (5 to 9 passengers) within their fleet.
Do you want to bring your own vehicle or rent one here? No problem! Option 1: Over land, from Argentina
INTRODUCTION 20
One of the most popular overland options for getting to Aysén is through Argentina. Border crossings are open year round and operate from 08:00 to 20:00 during the winter months and from 08:00 to 22:00 hours in summer. You can inform yourself about policies and regulations on the following sites: www.pasosfronterizos.gov.cl, and www. difrol.cl. Here are the basics: Personal Background Reports (Salvocondutos): All Chileans and permanent residents who want to exit Chile and enter Argentina via one of the smaller border crossings where there are no PDI police presence must obtain a Personal Background Report, (salvoconducto), issued from the PDI offices
in Coyhaique within 48 hours of the crossing. Others only need to present their passports and Chilean tourist visas. International Insurance and Notarized Authorization: You must obtain mandatory international auto insurance that covers damage to third parties. You can do so by internet (Google “auto liability insurance Mercosur” for a number of alternatives). If you are using a rented car, each company has its own policy about taking cars outside the country. Be sure to check in advance! Normally, they will complete and process the paperwork, arrange for the insurance and apply a surcharge to your bill. Remember that your car must have its title up to date with the Chilean Registry of Motor Vehicles and if the vehicle is not yours (including rentals), you must have a notarized authorization providing permission for you to drive it and take it out of the country. Traveling with minors: If you are going to cross into Argentina with a minor, you’ll need notarized authorization from both parents. If the child is traveling with one parent, you will need notarized authorization from the other parent. It is a good idea to carry more than one original copy of this authorization, in the event that at the border, they retain one for their records.
Duty Control (Pasavante): If the vehicle you are driving originated in the Aysén or Magallanes Regions or from the Province of Palena and it was purchased under the Duty Free Program offered in these areas, you must have a duty control document (pasavante) to be able to remove the car from the area and drive it in the rest of the country or abroad. These documents can be arranged in the Customs office of the originating region; i.e. in Coyhaique for vehicles purchased in the region of Aysén. Border crossings include:
uuFutaleufú:
Located 10 km from Futaleufú, in the Lakes Region, 144 km from La Junta, and 56 km from Trevelin, Argentina. Gravel roads.
uuLas
Pampas - Lago Verde: Located in the town of Lago Verde, 76 km from La Junta, Aysén Region, and 30 kilometers from the town of Río Pico, Argentina. Gravel roads, river crossings.
uuRío
uuPampa Alta (Puesto Viejo): Located 35 km from Villa Ñirehuao, Aysén Region, and 60 km from Río Senguer, Argentina. Gravel roads.
uuCoyhaique
Alto: Located 50 kilometers from Coyhaique, Aysén Region, and 140 km from Río Mayo, Argentina. Paved and gravel roads.
uuTriana:
Located 37 kilometers from Coyhaique and 153 km of Río Mayo,
uuHuemules:
Located 10 km from Balmaceda, Aysén Region, and 150 km from Río Mayo, Argentina. Paved roads.
uuIngeniero
Ibáñez - Pallavicini: Located 20 km from Puerto Ibáñez, Aysén Region, and 100 km from Perito Moreno, Argentina. Gravel roads.
uuRío Jeinimeni: Located 3 km from Chile Chico, Aysén Region, and 63 kilometers from Perito Moreno, Argentina. Gravel roads.
uuRoballos:
Located 85 km from Cochrane, Aysén Region, and 90 km from Bajo Caracoles, Argentina. Gravel roads.
TRAVELERS’ TIPS If you want to drive the entirety of the Carretera Austral north to south, you should travel the overland bimodal route. Begin in the Lakes Region (Region de los Lagos), where you will travel overland, with 3 short ferry sections (Caleta La Arena to Caleta Puelche, Hornopiren to Leptepu Fjord and Largo Fjord to Caleta Gonzalo). You’ll access Aysén from the north, arriving from Futaleufú to La Junta, which is 420 km from Coyhaique. More information at: www. recorreAysén.cl/rutabimodal/.
INTRODUCTION
Frías - Appeleg: Located 50 km from La Tapera, Aysén Region, and 28 km from Village Apeleg Argentina. Gravel roads.
Argentina. Gravel road.
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uuRío
Mayer, North Shore: Located 20 km from Villa O’Higgins and 90 km from Tucu-Tucu , Argentina. Gravel roads.
uuRío
Mosco: Located 10 km from Villa O’Higgins and 100 kilometers from the Federica Estancia in Argentina. Back country trails and gravel roads.
uuLagos O’Higgins - San Martin: Located
50 km from Villa O’Higgins and 45 km from El Chalten, Argentina, this crossing is maritime and not apt for vehicles.
uuDos
Lagunas - Candelario Mansilla: Located 60 km from Villa O’Higgins and 35 km from El Chalten, Argentina. This crossing is accessed via ferry, crossing O’Higgins Lake, and habilitated for foot traffic. Bikes can be accommodated however, in some sections, it may be necessary to remove pedals and/or portage.
Option 2: Water Access There are several different options for maritime arrival to the Region of Aysén. Ferries leave from Puerto Montt (www.navimag. cl) and Chiloe (www.navieraustral.cl), with a final destination of Puerto Chacabuco, the main port of the Aysén Region. The route from Puerto Montt caters more to tourists, in contrast to the route from Chiloe which transports both cargo and passengers, thus, the boats are less tourist oriented. Trips require between 24 and 30 hours, and can vary, depending on the weather and water conditions.
INTRODUCTION 22
The Naviera Austral route also offers connections with intermediate points. They have boats that run from Puerto Montt and Chiloé to different ports within the Lakes Region, or the Region of Los Lagos (Castro, Quellón, Ayacara, Chaiten). From Chaiten
you can begin land travel along the Carretera Austral. They also offer the Ruta Cordillera (Mountain Route), with a duration of approximately 30 hours, traveling within the fjords of Aysén and stopping at different villages within the islands and along the coast. The route leaves from the Quellón Port, in Chiloe, and stops in ports in Melinka, Raúl Marín Balmaceda, Santo Domingo, Melimoyu, Puerto Gala, Puerto Cisnes, Puerto Gaviota (Caleta Amparo), Puerto Aguirre and Puerto Chacabuco. You can only offload cars in Quellón, Melinka, Chacabuco and Puerto Cisnes, where there are ramps enabled. Check for itineraries, prices, dates and availability at www.navieraustral.cl.
NOW THAT YOU’VE ARRIVED, HOW DO YOU GET AROUND?
Think of the roads of Aysén as a sort of skeleton and Route 7, the Carretera Austral, as the backbone for your travels. The Carretera Austral begins in the Lakes region in the city of Puerto Montt, and ends 1,240 km further south, in the Aysén Region, at the Bahamondes docks for O’Higgins Lake. It’s no surprise that the Carretera Austral has been featured in so many articles and documentaries, attracting explorers from all over the globe; this route is considered the most beautiful scenic route in Patagonia and among the top in the world. To explore it you’ll need to combine sections of pavement with others of gravel and even short ferry sections to cross some fjords and lakes. Along the route you’ll encounter small towns and villages, incredible natural areas and lots of interesting people. We are not exaggerating when we tell you that every meter of your journey along the Carretera Austral you will find something new and different to photograph, see, taste, smell and feel. On sunny days the light is brilliant and on rainy days, it seeps through the clouds producing amazing rainbows and a spectrum of colors. Forests, teeming with mosses and lichens, which fill the air with their smell of sweet, fresh earth. Lakes that seem to have no end, and astonish with their spectrum of turquoises, greens and blues. And tiny details like an Andean condor floating along the air currents, the fresh butter melting on your home-baked rolls at breakfast, or the friendly smile of a settler welcoming you.
Transverse and Scenic Routes:
Palena – Queulat Area: Heritage Route between La Junta and Raúl Marín Balmaceda: (X-12) - 73 Km, 100% gravel with a short ferry section. Highlights include: Palena River, Natural Hot Springs, Raúl Marín Balmaceda, Melimoyu Volcano. Take into account the hours for ferry crossings (from 8.30 to 12.00 and from 14.00 to
INTRODUCTION
It is all of these experiences that make the adventure of traveling the Carretera Austral the trip of a lifetime. And it IS an adventure; there are several stretches of road that are narrow, steep curves abound, and there is little signage. Between improvements and repairs, the Carretera Austral is permanently under construction, and at times, you will probably encounter delays. When you do, be patient and proceed with caution; remember the gaucho saying, “He who hurries, loses time”.
If the Carretera Austral is the backbone that runs north to south through Aysén, you can imagine the transverse and tourist routes running east to west as the veins and the arteries that join the pampas in the east, the mountains and valleys of the central zones and the fjords and channels of the Pacific in the west. The majority of these roads are unpaved, with complex curves and stretches; however, they are brimming with views, trails, rivers and homesteads, all waiting for you to explore.
23
17.30, Monday to Sunday). Fuel up in La Junta because there are no services along the route. Rivers and Pampas Route between La Junta and The Pampas - Lago Verde Border Crossing: (X-13) - 76 Km, 100% gravel. Highlights include: Río Palena, Lago Rosselot, Lago Verde (the town and the lake). Fuel up in La Junta because there are no services along the route. Scenic Road through the Mirta, Cuarto y Quinto Valleys: (X-11) - 30 Km, 100% gravel. Highlights include: the Mirta, Cuarto y Quinto Valleys, Aillapán Trail, and Lago Claro Solar. The route has a very narrow suspension bridge crossing over the Quinto River. Route to La Tapera and Alto Río Cisnes: (X-25) - 107 Km, 100% gravel. Highlights include: Río Cisnes, Villa La Tapera, Alto Río Cisnes, Río Frías – Appeleg Border Crossing. Fuel up in Puyuhuapi or Villa Mañihuales because there are no services along the route. Road to Puerto Cisnes: (X-24) - 34 Km, mixture of asphalt and gravel. Highlights include: Río Cisnes, Puerto Cisnes. You can refuel in Puerto Cisnes.
Aysén – Simpson Area: Road between Puerto Chacabuco and Balmaceda: (X-240, R-7, X-245) - 135 Km, 100% asphalt. Highlights include the Simpson River National Reserve, Puerto Aysén, Balmaceda Airport, and the Huemul Border Crossing.
INTRODUCTION 24
TRAVELERS’ TIPS When you travel in Aysén you need to carry plenty of Chilean pesos with you, because in most towns, vendors only accept cash. Foreign currencies and credit cards are only accepted in larger towns. There are ATM machines in Puerto Cisnes, Villa Mañihuales, Coyhaique, Balmaceda, Puerto Aysén, Cochrane, Chile Chico and northward in Futaleufu, Palena, and Chaitén. You can exchange currencies in Coyhaique. Road between Coyhaique and Coyhaique Alto: (X-243) - 49 Km, mixture of asphalt and gravel. Highlights include: the buildings of the SIA (Historical Monument), Dos Lagoons (Natural Monument), Coyhaique Alto Border Crossing. Roads to the lakes and inner sectors: There are several routes that can be explored, both physically and in a virtual way using Google Maps, which allows you to estimate the kilometers, get an idea of the terrain, and find out the names of the roads. Almost all of these roads are unpaved, curvy and steep, so drive with caution. They’re worth it! The landscapes, rivers and lakes are beautiful.
Chelenko Area:
Side route to the Ingeniero Ibáñez - Pallavicini Border Crossing: (X-65) - 49 Km, mixture of asphalt and gravel. Highlights include: General Carrera Lake, Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez, the ferry between Ibáñez and Chile Chico, and the Ingeniero Ibáñez - Pallavicini Border Crossing. The scenic route through Las Ardillas Sector: (X-723) - 39 Km, 100% gravel. Highlights include: Tamango Lake and Lagoon, Laparent Lake, Redonda Lagoon, Claro River, the Levican Peninsula, the Ibáñez Falls, Ibáñez River, and General Carrera Lake. Fuel up in Villa Cerro Castillo or Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez, because there are no services along the route. There are no gas stations in these towns; however, there are providers authorized to sell fuel from barrels. Look for signs in front of their establishments advertising sale of “combustibles”.
Scenic Route between Puerto Río Tranquilo and Bahía Exploradores: (X-728) - 74 Km, 100% gravel. Highlights include: the Exploradores Valley, River, Glacier and Bay, Deshielo River, La Nutria Waterfall, Bayo and Tranquilo Lakes. Fuel up in Puerto Río Tranquilo, because there are no services along the route.
Baker - O’Higgins Area:
INTRODUCTION
Side route to Bahía Murta & Puerto Sánchez: (X-731) - 57 Km, 100% gravel. Highlights include: General Carrera Lake, Bahía Murta, the Panichini Islands, and Puerto Sánchez. Fuel up in Bahía Murta because there are no services along the route. There are no gas stations in town; however, there are providers authorized to sell fuel from barrels. Take note that the first kilometers of this route, once you leave the town of Bahía Murta in route to Puerto Sánchez are for the adventurous only; it’s gravel, narrow, steep and windy, especially in the sector “the Candonga”, where you’ll find an intense S-Curve, with the lake far below on one side and a huge stone cliff wall towering above you on the other.
Road between Chile Chico and Puerto Guadal: (X-265) - 115 Km, 100% gravel. Highlights include: Puerto Guadal, Mallín Grande, General Carrera Lake, the Keys Pass, Bahia Jara Sector, and Chile Chico. Fuel up in Puerto Guadal or Chile Chico, because there are no services along the route. Drive with extreme caution in the sector of the Keys Pass (Paso las Llaves), where there are 90° curves and enormous precipices.
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Branch of the Carretera Austral that leads to the town of Caleta Tortel: (X-904) - 23 Km, 100% gravel. Highlights include: Baker River Delta and Caleta Tortel. Fuel up in Cochrane, because there are no services along the route. Scenic Route through the Chacabuco Valley to the Roballos Border Crossing: (X83) - 74 Km, 100% gravel. Highlights include: Valle Chacabuco, typical fauna like condors, guanacos, foxes and hares, the Entrada Baker Sector and the Roballos Border Crossing. Options for hiking and camping. Fuel up in Cochrane, because there are no services along the route. Route to the San Lorenzo Area and the Calluqueo Glacier: (X-900, X-903) - 40 Km, 100% gravel. Highlights include: San Lorenzo Cordillera and the Calluqueo Glacier. Options for hiking and camping. Fuel up in Cochrane, because there are no services along the route. Route toward the Jorge Montt Glacier area (under construction): (X-906) - 18 Km, 100% gravel. Highlights include: Cypress of the Guaitecas, lakes and rivers. Fuel up in Cochrane or Villa O’Higgins, because there are no services along the route. Route to the north shore of the Mayer River and its back-country Border Crossing (X-905) - 20 Km, 100% gravel. Highlights include: Mayer River, Estancia Las Margaritas, Father Ronchi’s community chapel, Christie Lake, Claro Lake and River, Pérez River, Mayer River Border Crossing. Fuel up in Cochrane or Villa O’Higgins, because there are no services along the route.
Added bonus! Ferries INTRODUCTION 26
As you travel through Patagonia and Aysén, you will find several areas where you will need to take ferries:
uuPalena
– Queulat Area: Road X-11, Crossing of the Palena River to get to the island of Raúl Marín Balmaceda, at Km 63 of the route between La Junta and Raúl Marín Balmaceda. Take into account the hours of the ferry crossing (from 8.30 to 12.00 and from 14.00 to 17.30 from Monday to Sunday). Free service.
uuChelenko
Area: Crossing of General
Carrera Lake between Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez and Chile Chico, aboard the Tehuelche. Optional Route with Cost. Information and schedules are available at: www.sotramin.cl.
uuBaker - O’Higgins Area: Mitchell Fjord
crossing between Puerto Yungay and Port Bravo aboard the Father Antonio Ronchi. Information and schedules are available at: www.barcazas.cl. Free service.
These crossings are all relatively short and allow you to experience the lakes and the fjords and take in a little fresh air. The crossing of General Carrera Lake is the longest trip (2 hours), but it is a good opportunity to rest and enjoy the scenery. There are lounges on board, where you can have a snack.
When it comes to driving.. As a general recommendation, always drive on the defensive and plan your route so that you have sufficient time to avoid unnecessary rushing. Why hurry if you are on vacation? Take into account that you are going to stop several times to take pictures or to admire the scenery and that the average speed on the roads is between 45 - 70 km/h, because they are curvy, gravel and narrow. Gravel becomes slick and unstable at high speeds, rain can form large puddles and it is impossible to gauge depth by simply looking, and washboards, created by erosion and traffic and cause vibrations that can lead to loss of vehicle control. Expect low levels of visibility in curved areas and that frequently, you will encounter animals in the route. To minimize risks, always travel with your vehicle’s lights lit and maintain proper distance from vehi-
cles in front of you, in order to avoid loose stones that can jump up and break windshields or mirrors.
Fuel and repairs A few considerations before you head out on the roads of Patagonia. Your car’s fuel performance will be less than normal along the Carretera Austral and given the road conditions, it is not unlikely to experience flat tires. The distances between gas stations and mechanics are extensive so it’s important to fuel up every time you have opportunity and consider carrying an extra fuel container if you can do so safely (containers should be metal and comply with all security measures). If you run out of gas you can try to buy enough to get to the next town from other travelers, in nearby farms or from the construction teams that are always on the roads. You should carry a hose with you for siphoning, if needed. In case of tire punctures, you should only attempt repairs in places where you and your vehicle will be visible to other vehicles. Turn off the engine, turn on the emergency flashers, and engage the emergency brake. Before traveling, verify that your vehicle has all the necessary elements for repairs, including a jack, lug wrench, spare tire, reflective triangles, a flashlight and a fire extinguisher. We suggest a practice session before leaving to make sure you know the proper steps. People in Patagonia are helpful but, not accustomed to running into others who are NOT used to these situations. Therefore, they don’t usually stop if you don’t wave them down. In the case of more serious mechanical situations, you will probably have to work with a mechanic in one of the larger towns, like La Junta, Coyhaique, Puerto Aysén, Chile Chico or Cochrane.
It’s the most economical alternative for touring the region and helps to reduce your carbon footprint; it’s also a good way to meet local people and forget the hassles of driving. Hypothetically, your biggest worry during the journey is to enjoy the landscapes. In reality, there’s a bit more worry to the process; spaces and frequencies are limited, so often, you end up spending a lot of time waiting around and since the first objective of public transport is to transport passengers and not
To move between the larger towns of the region, like La Junta, Cochrane, Puerto Cisnes, Coyhaique and Puerto Aysén buses can work well, as they run daily and there are several operators. Smaller towns can be a bit complicated because there are fewer options and you need to coordinate things well to get from one point to another. Definitely buy your tickets as soon as you arrive in the region, because trips fill up fast and you can end up waiting for days.
Biking the roads of Patagonia The Carretera Austral is a legendary route for bike-touring and the transversal routes provide interesting day routes and connectivity with Route 40 in Argentina. Between December and March it is common to see dozens of adventurers pedaling mountain bikes, tandems (for two people), recum-
INTRODUCTION
Public Transport
to provide options for sightseeing, you zoom past some of the best places so it is not the ideal choice if you want to concentrate on photography.
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bents, and everything in between. Last year one young woman rode the entire length of the Carretera Austral by unicycle!!! Imagine. The first thing you need to know is that here there are no special lanes for cyclists and the sides of the road can be narrow or non-existent, so you’ll need quite a bit of dexterity to navigate the challenges of the roads: loose gravel, oncoming traffic, steep slopes and dust. Take all the necessary steps to increase your visibility using reflective clothing, flags, headlights, and taillights, among others. In most towns you can find basic supplies, but it’s not likely that you’ll find spare bike parts or people who know how to do repairs; always carry spare parts, tools and enough food for 1 or 2 days, because in isolated areas supplies are limited. Count on
the fact that the travel times are longer than expected and can vary greatly depending on the weather (wind and rain are important factors to consider), the conditions of the route, your physical condition and mechanical problems; basically your itinerary should be flexible and you should be prepared to be self-sufficient along the way. If possible, we recommend that you disassemble and reassemble your bike before the journey, so that you can familiarize yourself with all of the parts and their repair; thus, preparing for possible problems in the route
USEFUL INFORMATION »»Airlines with offices in Coyhaique: »»Bus Terminals in Coyhaique: • LAN Chile: General Parra 402 • Buses Águilas Patagónicas: (067) 2231188, www.lan.cl Sky Airline: Arturo Prat 203, (067) 2240827, www.skyairline. cl • Aerocord: General Parra 21, (067) 2246300; www.aerocord. cl »»Maritime Navigation:
•
•
INTRODUCTION 28
Naviera Austral: contacto@navieraustral.cl, www.navieraustral.cl. Offices: ·· Quellón - Pedro Montt 457; (065) 2682207 - 2682505 2682506; ·· Puerto Montt - Angelmó 1673; (065) 2270430 - 2270431 2270432; ·· Melinka - Waterfront Avenue s/n; (067) 2431510; ·· Puerto Cisnes - Arturo Prat 07; (09) 84482837; ·· Puerto Aguirre - Balmaceda No. 350; (067) 2361357; ·· Puerto Chacabuco - Ferry Terminal s/n; (067) 2351493; ·· Coyhaique - Paseo Horn 40 Of. 101; (067) 2210727.
• • • • •
Routes along the Carretera Austral; Office: Lautaro, corner with Magellan; (067) 2211288; www. aguilaspatagonicas.cl, contacto@aguilaspatagonicas.cl Buses Suray: Routes between Coyhaique, Puerto Aysén and Puerto Chacabuco; Office: Arturo Prat 265; (067) 2238387 Buses Don Carlos: Routes along the Carretera Austral; Office: Subteniente Cruz 63; (067) 2231981; info@doncarlos.cl Buses Ali: Routes between Coyhaique, Puerto Aysén and Puerto Chacabuco; Office: Dussen 283; (067) 2232350 Municipal Bus Terminal: Regional, National and Argentinean Routes; Office: Lautaro, corner with Magallanes; (09) 88291421 Buses Becker: Routes along the Carretera Austral; Office: General Parra 335 – Inside; (067) 2232167 - (09) 84652959; www. busesbecker.com; contacto@ busesbecker.com
A KEY DECISION - WHERE TO STAY?
Understanding the range of accommodations that exist in Patagonia can be a challenge, as there are options galore and sometimes the styles are quite difficult to pigeonhole. In general, you will find three types.
Let’s start off with the traditional This grouping includes a wide range of styles and services, such as hotels, boutique hotels, lodges, guest houses (often the same house of the owner), hostels, small inns, cottages and farm stays in establishments of agrotourism. Obviously, your choice will depend on your budget and your requirements in terms of services.
Next are cabins, a.k.a. cabañas, which are abundant in Aysén and very com-
Finally, there are campsites, hostels and sleeping shelters, which are almost
always located in or near natural areas and are a perfect alternative for people seeking to connect with nature in Patagonia. There are a great variety in the region, both in protected areas, and private sites; some are very basic and others offer excellent amenities and facilities. If you choose to camp you should carry the appropriate equipment for
this climate, including a wind-resistant, waterproof tent and a sleeping bag suitable for cold weather.
Book in advance! Each year there are more and more visitors coming to the Aysén region so we recommend you book in advance, especially if you’re traveling during the high season (December - April). In addition to the suggestions that we provide in this guide, you can check the following sites and resources for listings of services and providers. The following on-line resources provide information and tools for making advance reservations in Aysén: www.tripadvisor.cl, www.recorreAysén.cl, www.chileestuyo.cl, www. booking.com, www.campingchile.cl, www.cabanaschile.cl, www.interpatagonia.com, www.onchile.com, www.casadelturismorural.cl, and www.conaf.cl.
INTRODUCTION
fortable for the independent traveler as they are like staying in a small house, with one or more bedrooms, a space for cooking, bathroom(s) and a living area. They are designed for people who don’t want a lot of personal attention and who prefer to prepare their own meals, although some offer breakfast service. Cabins, or cabañas, as they are referred to in the region, are great money-savers, especially if one is traveling with a group.
TRAVELERS’ TIPS: The National Tourism Service (Sernatur) maintains a registry of accommodations, which you can find on their site, www.recorreAysén.cl.
Additionally, you can visit these sites and the tourist information offices of Sernatur:
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Palena – Queulat Area:
to Gala Isla Toto; Puerto Gaviota XI Región; Turismo Marinero Comuna de Cisnes.
On-line Resources: www.camaralajunta. cl, www.puertopuyuhuapi.cl, www.lagoverdeAysén.cl and on Facebook: Huella de los Troperos (Lago Verde); Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda.; Fomento Productivo La Junta.
SERNATUR TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES:
SERNATUR TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES:
Cisnes - on one side of the Main Plaza, near the library; December - March. Contact: (09) 88828752; informacionturistica.cisnes@gmail. com
uuLa Junta - on one side of the Main Pla-
za; December - March. Contact: (09) 73779231; informacionturistica.lajunta@gmail.com
uuLago Verde - on one side of the Main
Plaza; December - March. Contact: (09) 81537538; informacionturistica.puyuhuapi@gmail.com
uuRaúl
Marín Balmaceda - on one side of the Main Plaza; December - March. Contact: (09) 79636241; informacionturistica.raulmarin@gmail.com
Fjords & Channels Area: On-line Resources: www.turismocisnespatagonia.cl, www.municipalidadcisnes. cl, www.muniguaitecas.cl, www.islashuichas.cl and on Facebook: Cámara de Comercio y Turismo de Puerto Cisnes; Puer-
INTRODUCTION 30
uuMelinka - Airfield; December - March. Contact: (09) 57221639; informacionturistica.melinka@gmail.com
uuPuerto
Aysén – Simpson Area: On-line Resources: www.puertoAysén.cl, www.coyhaique.cl/portalturismo/; www. Aysénpatagonia.cl, www.camaracoyhaique.cl and on Facebook: Cámara De Turismo Coyhaique AG; camaracoyhaique; Casa Del Turismo Rural Aysén; Reserva Nacional Coyhaique. OFICINAS DE INFORMACIÓN TURÍSTICA DE SERNATUR:
uuBalmaceda - Baggage claim area; all year round. Contact: (09) 75297144; informacionturistica.balmaceda@gmail. com
uuCoyhaique
- on one side of the Main
Plaza, across from the Artisan area; all year round. Contact: (09) 98101595; infoturistica.coyhaique@gmail.com
uuCoyhaique – Corner of Freire and Prat;
all year round. Contact: (09) 84549793; informacionturistica.coyhaique@ gmail.com
uuCoyhaique
- Bulnes Street No. 35; all year round. Contact: (067) 2240290 - 2240298; infoAysén@sernatur.cl; ffigueroa@sernatur.cl
uuMañihuales
– Offices of the Municipal Delegation; December - March. Contact: (09) 89779530; informacionturistica.manihuales@gmail.com
uuPuerto
Aysén - Municipal Office of Tourism, Cerro Mirador; December March. Contact: (09) 99945551; informacionturistica.Aysén@gmail.com
uuPuerto
Río Tranquilo – Waterfront parking lot, December - March. Contact: (09) 91539021; informacion.tranquilo@gmail.com
uuVilla
Cerro Castillo – In the entry to town, beside the Radio Station; December - March. Contact: (09) 56053272; informacionturistic a .cc a stillo @ gmail.com
Baker - O’Higgins Area: On-line Resources: www.cochranepatagonia.cl, www.municipalidadohiggins.cl, www.visitetortel.cl, www.cochranepatagonia.cl; www.conservacionpatagonica. org and on Facebook: Provincia de los Glaciares; Reserva Nacional Tamango; Conservación Patagónica. SERNATUR TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES:
Chelenko Area:
uuCaleta
On-line Resources: www.rioIbáñez.cl, www.chilechico.cl; www.puerto-guadal. com; www.turismobertrand.cl and on Facebook: Reserva Nacional Jeinimeni.
uuCochrane
uuChile
Chico – Sernatur offices, opposite the Plaza de Arms; all year round. Contact: (067) 2411303; informacion-turistica.chilechico@gmail.com
uuPuerto Ingeniero Ibáñez - Waterfront,
Shopping Center; December - March. Contact: (09) 99567722; informacionturistica.ibáñez@gmail.com
- on one side of the Main Plaza; December - March. Contact: (09) 76498385; informacionturistica.cochrane@gmail.com
uuVilla
O’Higgins - on one side of the Main Plaza; December - March. Contact: (09) 66217026; informacionturistica.ohiggins@gmail.com
INTRODUCTION
SERNATUR TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES:
Tortel – Parking Lot; December - March. Contact: (09) 93026696; informacionturistica.tortel@gmail. com
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DISCOVER THE FLAVORS OF THE PATAGONIA
As you travel through the Aysén Region you will have many opportunities to explore the gastronomic traditions and innovations of Patagonia.
What to eat? You will find restaurants with gourmet and international cuisine, especially in the lodges and large hotels across the region. Many of them have incorporated local elements into their preparations, such as lamb, trout, salmon, calafate, nalca and rhubarb. Look for must-try’s like lamb ravioli with a wine sauce or a brownie served with calafate ice cream!
INTRODUCTION 32
You’ll also have the chance to eat in local “picadas”, the Chilean word for restaurants where the food is plentiful, the prices are more affordable and, in general, homemade and traditional fare is served. These are the places to enjoy traditional dishes like cazuela (homemade stews), fried fish, milanesa, giant sandwiches, or a steak “a lo pobre” (beef topped with french fries, sautéed onions, and fried egg), among hundreds of other elections. You can find great picadas throughout the region and should also look for great house specialties in the inns of the region; delicacies like cazuela of chicken and polenta or lamb with luche, or also, homemade meatballs. In fact, within this guide we’ll
share several of these traditional recipes so you can prepare them yourself when you’re staying in cabins or after you return home. Beef and lamb are some of the most frequently consumed foods in Patagonia, especially in rural areas. Don’t miss the experience of attending a Patagonia Asado al Palo, which involves lamb, beef or in some cases, fish, slow-roasted on the stake, in the coals of a campfire or barbecue pit. This is the typical dish for parties, family get-togethers and heritage festivals; it’s even on the menu at some restaurants; but, you’ll want to arrive in advance to be around during the fun of the barbecue process. An asado al palo is much more than a meal, it is an occasion and a great feast. The lamb is never served solo, it’s accompanied by tortas fritas (fried breads), pebre sauce, potatoes, a variety of salads and red wine. You’ll encounter delicious, regional beef throughout almost the entire region, but many say that the best is in Bahía Murta, a village along the Shore of General Carrera Lake, where you’ll find the perfect cut for
your grill. And for fresh fish like merluza (hake), sea bass (congrio) or even sierra, head to the communities along the coast. If you time your travels just right, you can join in with the community of Puerto Cisnes as they celebrate their annual “Fiesta del pesca’o frito” (Fried fish festival), where the main dish is, you guessed it, fried merluza. You can also opt for a myriad of fantastic dishes prepared with shellfish, like mussels, clams, crab claws and locos, but we suggest you only partake in these plates in well-established restaurants; red tide (marea roja) is a problem in the area and you want to be sure not to eat bad shellfish.
If meat is not your “thing” and you’re looking for fruits, vegetables, or fresh dairy, check out the region’s farmer’s markets, greenhouses, and local farms, especially in La Junta (Palena – Queulat Area), Coyhaique (Aysén – Simpson Area) Puerto Ibáñez, and Chile Chico (Chelenko Area), and Cochrane (Baker – O’Higgins Area). All summer, you’ll be amazed by the selection of fresh and delicious vegetables, fruits, farm eggs and cheeses of the region; all at great prices. Don’t miss the cherries from Chile Chico; so renowned they are exported to gourmet shops in Europe and Asia.
INTRODUCTION 33
What to drink? Well, first let’s start with yerba mate, the traditional brew of Patagonia, which gives you energy and a great excuse to sit down and converse for a while. You’ll find folks drinking rounds of yerba mate all over the region, and it’s a pretty safe bet that at some point they’ll invite you to join in. If you become a fan, you’ll want to look for a kilo of yerba mate, a traditional gourd and a bombilla, to carry with you and take home as a souvenir.
INTRODUCTION 34
Also, don’t forget to try the growing number of artisan beers being brewed throughout the region, all exquisite and made with 100% pure water of Patagonia. That’s their secret and well, actually, the key to almost all the regional gastronomy, freshness, purity, high levels of organic growing and low levels of pollution; it’s the perfect combination for delivering unique tastes, special ingredients and great meals. Check it out for yourself!
TIPS FOR A SAFE JOURNEY
Patagonia is beautiful, there’s no other place like it in the world. Nevertheless, such pure, raw nature can be really challenging! Some people consider these challenges as problems and others welcome the unique opportunity to depend on their own preparation and skills. The trick is “self-sufficiency” and to begin, here are some useful tips.
The first tip to remember, is that all travel in remote areas requires a positive attitude toward the unexpected and a great capacity for adaptation and improvisation. We don’t want to scare
you, but we also don’t want to minimize the dangers, risks and accidents that you can be exposed to in the Patagonia. There are
always dangers that are inherent in nature, like strong gusts of wind, or ice on the road. Whether those dangers are converted into risks or accidents depends on you, your knowledge and your actions. And to prepare, you should inform yourself well and have a plan for the prevention and management of risk. That is to say ...The success of your trip will be the result of your preparations at home! Having an understanding of the terrain, distances, and weather conditions, among other things, will allow you to choose the appropriate tents to carry, what type of vehicle to use, what your backpack and your safety kit contain, how to dress for activities, and what food to carry with you. In addition to informing yourself, we suggest you develop a protocol for obtaining professional assistance in the event of serious accidents, including having insurance and arranging communication mechanisms, knowing first-aid, planning in case you need an evacuation, repatriation and/or medical care. Remember to share your travel plans with friends and authorities, detailing your date of entry and exit and the places you plan to visit.
Get ready for the climate of Patagonia
INTRODUCTION
In Aysén, you’ll encounter many places where nature remains pure and there are little man-made structures to alter your experience. Here, you can learn how to face the daily challenges of living in an extreme landscape, full of enormous mountains, waters and weather. You’re going to be confronted with a complex climate, constantly and suddenly changing; here, you can experience all 4 seasons of the year in a single day! Outside the main cities, the level of development and infrastructure are basic; both on the roads and in the smaller towns and villages. You’ll want to prepare to be in a place where the roads can be in poor condition, where gas stations are few and far between, where medical centers are scarce and communications (telephone and internet) are only available in the villages and not on the roads between them.
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One of the most intense aspects of spending time in Patagonia is its climate, which is always changing and unpredictable. You can visit the same place 10 or 20 times and on each occasion, we assure you that the weather will always will be different; producing contrasts that nature photographer’s dream of - the constant movement of clouds projects distinct intensities of light, and the skies can vary
roam, the infrastructure and services will be basic. Always carry water and enough food for you and your group, because you won’t find restaurants or stores open 24 hours a day, like in the larger cities. Also, you need to have a basic knowledge of mechanics for the vehicle that you are going to use, including knowing of how to change a tire, jump a battery with another vehicle, or be able to change the chain on your bicycle. between intense blues filled with sun, to dark brooding greys or a mixture of everything, with incredibly vivid rainbows. Wind, rain or shine; sometimes, all at once!
INTRODUCTION
Although experiencing all four seasons is exciting and adds a constantly changing and undeniable beauty to the landscapes, you must be prepared to be able to enjoy it. For trekking and other adventure sports, you should dress with layers of technical clothing that you can remove or add with ease, according to the climatic conditions. Specialists recommend three layers: a first layer that is quick-drying and can wick away moisture, a second fleece layer to add warmth, and a third impervious layer that protects from humidity, wind and rain. These three layers must keep your body dry, including from sweat, so you should use fabrics that are fast-drying and breathable. No cotton or plastic. You’ll also need a hat for the cold and the sun, gloves, sunglasses and sunscreen.
Self-sufficiency should be your guiding philosophy 36
To ensure a fun experience and a comfortable and safe journey through Aysén and Patagonia, you need to adopt a philosophy of self-sufficiency, assuming that wherever you
If you are going to tour in more remote areas within the region and you do not plan to travel with a professional guide (recommended), it is important that at least one member of the group is trained and prepared to help with:
uuBasic survival (find or make a safe hav-
en, to make a fire, find water, directed, etc.)
uuFirst aid (Recognition and treatment of
conditions that can be life-threatening like hemorrhages, hypothermia, heat stroke, choking, anaphylaxis, etc.) and
an activity, when weather conditions do not allow for its realization. Always plan your trip and share your route and plans with protected area or local authorities and a family member or friend at home, especially if you’re staying in the back-country for several days without an opportunity to make contact. Carry equipment appropriate for the activity and area, including topographic maps, a GPS, personal equipment, food and emergency kits.
the ability to deal with minor injuries and inconveniences during the trip, such as cuts, stings from mosquitoes, blisters and sunburn, among others.
Safe Adventures Experts frequently say that 99% of the accidents that occur in nature are a result of humans and not the environment. As you would expect, there are always dangers, so it’s up to you to prevent them from becoming accidents and if they do, to manage them so they are less severe. Here are some tips:
When you are hiking The trekking season extends year round in most areas of Patagonia, although safe hiking depends on weather conditions, wind and the amount of snow fall. We recommend that you review trail conditions, river courses and camp areas, with the rangers before you begin each trek. In Patagonia, you must be willing to modify itineraries or suspend
The number of daylight-hours vary significantly in these latitudes and should be an important planning consideration. In winter you can have 8 hours of light and in the middle of summer, approximately 18 hours. If you are going to be hiking with children:
uuIf you’re with children between 2 and 4
years old, you need to rest every 10 or 15 minutes and not hike for more than 3 km.
uuIf you’re with children between 5 and 7 years old, you should hike for no more than 5 to 7 km, and rest every 30 to 45 minutes.
uuWith children between 8 and 10 years old, don’t hike for more than 13 km per day and rest at least every hour.
uuChildren
should put on their warm layer (second layer) before adults because they lose their body heat faster. A woolen cap is essential for children because 20% of body heat is lost through the head.
uuFinally,
remember that if children are going to carry a backpack, the weight must not exceed 20% of their total body weight.
Aysén is synonymous with water: rivers, streams, lakes, lagoons, waterfalls, ice fields and fjords. This incredible combination offers the unique setting for unforgettable experiences. However, with all water-based activities, there are dangers that could negatively affect your trip. It’s important to study, plan and be prepared.
INTRODUCTION
Water-based Activities
SOME RECOMMENDATIONS:
uuAlways
carries the appropriate technical and safety equipment for the activ-
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pectations for the tour. Before starting you should discuss these aspects of the group as well as the route, the order of the horses and riders and the speed of the group.
uuThe distance between riders is an im-
portant variable when horseback riding in a group. The general rule is to maintain a distance of at least one horse length between riders, and, two or three horses when riding in steep areas.
uuIt is not unusual to find obstacles in the ity, the place, the waters and the changing climate of Patagonia, including dry clothes in sealed bags.
uuAlways
have the supplies and knowledge for basic survival and first-aid, on hand.
uuWhen
you cross rivers and streams, either on foot, on horse or with your bike, never do it alone. Use walking sticks or hiking poles to assist you while you’re crossing and, preferably, cross with your group in single file, holding the person in front of you by their backpack or back. Remove socks and the insoles of boots or shoes, but do not cross barefoot. Loosen the straps and belts of your backpack, so that if you slip, it can be easily removed.
uuNever swim, fish or kayak alone. When
kayaking, identify places where you could take-out if needed, stay close to the shore, and always paddle accompanied by an experienced paddler.
Horseback Riding INTRODUCTION
Including a horseback ride on your trip through Aysén is a MUST and will definitely help you imagine the life of the true gauchos and explorers who first mapped these territories. We suggest you ride with experienced guides and outfitters, companies with good knowledge of horses, leading riders and the routes you’ll be taking. SOME RECOMMENDATIONS:
uuWhen riding in a group you should be 38
aware that riders will have a range of levels of experience and different ex-
trail; low or fallen branches, rocky crags and outcroppings or narrow openings. Logically, your horse is not considering the added height of having you on his back, and does not measure his steps with you in mind; therefore, you will need to always be aware and able to guide your horse, including being able to stop the horse if necessary.
uuWear a helmet, even if your guide does not.
uuBridges can present a danger, especial-
ly older wooden bridges. After a rain shower they tend to be slippery, so you should cross with caution and follow the instructions of your guide.
uuWhen riding along roads, be aware of
the likelihood of encountering vehicles, animals and/or people. Only pass or change the order of the horses in wide, straightaways, where you are sure that there is no possible obstacle.
uuIf
you must cross a river, the guide should take charge of the group, indicating the place to cross and the order
of the horses. When crossing, loosen the reins slightly. Never ride a horse in water where it cannot maintain contact with the bottom and needs to swim.
your coordinates. Record the maximum amount of information possible so that support services can find you with ease.
the gravel roads of AysĂŠn, generally, you can flag down the first vehicle that passes to ask for help. It is important to know your distance in relation to the closest town or farm; is more efficient to keep going or retrace your route? Make sure that the position of the vehicle does not represent a danger to yourself or other travelers. In case of tire punctures, you should only attempt repairs in places where you and your vehicle will be visible to other vehicles. Turn off the engine, turn on the emergency flashers, engage the emergency brake and secure the other tires with rocks or branches. Make sure that the jack is firm. If you run out of gas you can try to buy enough to get to the next town from other travelers, in nearby farms or from the construction teams that are always on the roads. You should carry a hose with you for siphoning, if needed. In the case of more serious mechanical situations, you will probably have to work with a mechanic and/or the police in one of the larger towns, like La Junta, Coyhaique, Puerto AysĂŠn, Chile Chico or Cochrane. You must evaluate the options and decide whether it is better to stay with the vehicle, or leave it and walk in search of help. This will depend on the seriousness of the situation, the climatic conditions, the mood of the group and the distance/time to reach the assistance. In the event of an accident with other vehicles or people it is essential that you file an official report with the police (carabineros). This is a requirement for all insurance policies.
will differ from group to group, according to your specific plans and means of transport.
Proper equipment and tools are imWhat do you do in case of mechanical portant when a problem arises. We problems or minor accidents? recommend that you prepare kits to When you have mechanical problems along assist your problem solving. Kit contents
Make sure you have a plan and protocol for the management of severe accidents, before traveling. If there is no other option, you can get professional help via UHF radio, many of the rural farmhouses have this equipment and can help you. It is important to know the precise location of your vehicle, therefore, looking for kilometer markers or bridge names nearby and if you have a GPS, record
uuBiosecurity
& Personal Protection Supplies: Disposable gloves, plastic bags, lighter or matches, note pad and pencil, flashlight and batteries, wet hand-wipes, first-aid manual, rounded scissors or Swiss army knife.
uuCleaning
Supplies: Clean water (preferably sterile and distilled), liquid soap, sterile sponges, and gauze bandages. It also may come in handy to have tweezers to remove stones or superficial thorns from injuries.
uuTreatment
Supplies: Povidone iodine (liquid or foam), silver sulfadine cream and furazolidone, sterile gauze bandages, compresses, (2 to 3 cm wide) and micropore, adhesive bandages, cotton applicator.
uuProtection
and Immobilization Supplies: Elastic, rigid and triangular bandages to immobilize specific areas, such as the neck or an arm. Immobilizing materials can also be improvised, utilizing sleeping pads, pencils, tools, paper
INTRODUCTION
What do you do in case of serious accidents?
EXAMPLES OF THE CONTENTS FOR A FIRST-AID KIT:
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rolls, etc.
uuOther:
Any prescription medications taken by travelers in your group, common medicines for head-aches, fever, colds, flu and diarrhea, after-sun lotion for sun burns, re hydration salts or ionized water for dehydration, moleskin for blisters, note paper and a pen, and duct tape.
EXAMPLES OF THE CONTENTS FOR A SPARE PARTS KIT:
uuFor
motorized vehicles: a Jack for changing tires, lug wrench, spare tire, fire extinguisher, air pump, 20 L spare fuel tank, jumper cables, spark-plugs, fuses, and tools to change them, motor oil, set of warning triangles, regular and slip-joint pliers, flat and Phillips-head screwdrivers, flashlight and batteries, socket-wrench set, sizes 9 - 24, water container, duct tape and thin wire.
uuFor bicycles: 2 inner tubes for each bike
and wheel size, a spare tire for each bike and wheel size, patch kit and glue, spare chain, full set of ball bearings, full set of cables, spokes, chain rivets, wrench set according to sizes, chain breaker, regular pliers and slip-joint pliers, adjustable spanner and Allen key set, straps to secure the luggage, bolt, screw-bolt and screws, oil and WD-40, duct tape and thin wire, pump, flashlight and batteries, and brake pads.
EXAMPLES OF THE CONTENTS FOR A SURVIVAL KIT: A plastic tarp, spare sleeping bag, container for collecting water, spare sleeping pad, lighter and matches, spare tent, flashlight and batteries, spare portable stove, 15 m (50’) cord, spare pot, white gas, food supply for a complete day for the group, pocket-knife, duct tape, and large plastic trash bags.
Communications in the region Almost all towns have cell phone coverage and internet, but in between villages and in remote areas there is no signal. FOR MAKING CALLS, REMEMBER:
uuChile’s Country Code: +56. uuCalling from a cell phone to a land line: 0 + area code (67) + telephone number (7 digits)
uuCalling from a land line to a cellular: 09 + phone number (8 digits)
uuCalling
from one land line to another land line telephone: Just dial the telephone number.
WHO DO YOU CALL IN THE EVENT OF AN EMERGENCY?:
uu133 Emergency police (Carabineros) uu131 Ambulance uu132 Firefighters uu134 Police Investigations (PDI) uuONEMI (National Emergency Service): (067) 2215665 or (02) 24018675
uuFarm INTRODUCTION 40
houses, road construction and repair teams, border posts, emergency services and the municipalities all communicate through UHF and VHF radios. The best emergency service to call via radio in case of emergency in Chile is ONEMI, whose call sign is called “echo eleven”. They are staffed 24 hours a day.