The Sewing Cottage Issue 13

Preview Issue

The Sewing Cottage Issue 13 October 2012

ing~ Includ lenge l a h C It’s a iecing P r e p Pa

In This Issue

Butterfly Wall Hanging

Gnome Meadows Quilt

Mushroom Mug Rug

Gnome Girls- Doll

Squiggly Mini Quilt

Block #10 Foxie Adventures BOM

Posie Pins

Welcome to Issue #14 of The Sewing Cottage e-Magazine.

In this issue I have thrown caution to the wind and explored the world of make believe. The inspiration for this month is meadows, outdoors, imaginary friends- gnome and gnome girls! They are all put together in a field of butterflies and mushrooms.

We will also take a quick moment to review the ‘pin’. Our favorite companion {besides the seam ripper}. The ‘pin’ helps us keep out seams straight, our pieces in place and makes our time with the seam ripper less! The info is basic and just a quick reminder of what kind of pins we should spend more time with.

This month also starts the newest addition to The Sewing Cottage e-Magazine….. The monthly challenge! This is going to be so fun! This month’s theme is ‘paper piecing’.

Now, don’t get all worked up- this issue has 2 patterns for you to give your paper piecing a try. Next month there will be show and tell from the challenge, so make sure you participate–- you might be the one featured!

Enjoy the collection of patterns!

Becky

Contributors Annie’s Musings I am Annie. You may know me as freezeframe03. I've had a flickr photostream for three years.

I kinda treated it like it was my "blog" and diary for my photography, at first, then my sewing/quilting, that I'm better at than photography. I have opinions and I'm not afraid to speak them!

I love it when I learn something new...even if it's something I should have known all along...like straight line quilting is ok...geezelouise I can't get over that one! Once in a while I've even changed my opinion or musing when someone puts forth a logical/reasonable rebuttal...nothing is ever onesided. So, follow me if you like and feel free to comment and participate on my musings with your thoughts of whatever the subject might be. You may even trigger a new musing in me. .Make every day memorable!

Annie Visit her Blog: Annie’s Musing

Patchwork Posse I I have been Sewing since I was 8 years old {my first sampler}. My first official quilt was finished in 1997 and it is 'history' as they say it since.

I have 4 kids at home who help inspire my designs.

I L O V E to sew! I started quilting with a big girls machine in 2010. I love to design quilts, bags, but my favorite is dolls and stuffed animals.

I collect buttons, lace and ric-rac.

I have a quirky sense of design that I hope you like!

Becky

Visit her blog: Patchwork Posse

Table Of Contents

Gnome Dolls…p 7

Posie Pins…

P 13 Mushroom Mug Rug…P 26

t…P 31 l i u q s w o d Gnome Mea Butterfly Signature wall quilt…p 43

Foxie adventures bom…p 47

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Gnome Doll Pattern

By Patchwork Posse

12” doll

Materials Needed: Cotton~

Wool Felt~

Notions~

18” X 18”- body

3” X 3”- face

Embroidery floss

10” X 10” -hat

8” X 8” hair

Poly fil stuffing

9” X 6”- apron

Scraps for flower

Ribbon for braids

Pins For Sewing Ever wonder what pins are all about? I have….but when I looked into it I was bombarded with more info than I really wanted to know! By the end of the article I didn’t really get it and was totally confused as to what it all meant in the end.

Here is a quick and simple guide all about pins. Simple information so you can know just a bit more about pins…… since we use them a lot in sewing and quilting.

Head The head is the most recognizable part of a straight pin. What it is made of dictates if it can be pressed, and the shape determines when you should use it in the construction process.

Flat Also called “no head,” this pin may be pressed with a hot iron. It’s also good for handwork, as thread doesn’t get caught on it. A flat head can be difficult to see on busy or textured fabrics, however.

Plastic Ball-shaped plastic heads come in different sizes and colors, and may be pearlized. Wide, flowershaped plastic heads are the easiest to spot, and because they are flat, they come in handy when you need to lay a ruler or tape measure over a pinned area. They are also a good choice for lace, eyelet, and loose weaves, as the large heads won’t slip through the holes in the fabric.

Glass This small, ball-shaped head is fairly easy to see, and won’t melt when touched with an iron.

Metal Metal they can be pressed with an iron without fear of melting.

Sharp These all-purpose points are a fine choice for loosely woven, medium-weeight, and heavy-weight fabrics.

Extra-sharp More defined and tapered, this point passes cleanly through delicate fabrics.

Ball point Created especially—and only—for knits, this point is rounded so it slips between the loops of the fabric and doesn’t pierce or pull the yarns.

Posie Pins Tutorial– How to make your own bouquet

Materials needed: * pins. round heads are great. * Scraps of fabric * Needle and Thread 1) Cut 2 pieces of scraps into a circle or oval shape& .. around 1 1/2 inches wide and 1" tall. Nothing patterny here. Just eyeball it. It will turn out just fine.

2) Place the fabric WRONG SIDES TOGETHER. Stick the pin in the center of the 2 scraps

3) Fold the 2 pieces up and hold in place while making a few stitches around the ball head. This will keep the fabric in place. Knot it at the end.

You can use matching thread or try invisible– if you are doing a few with lots of different colors. If you can keep from snipping the thread in the next step you can leave the thread, easier for step 5.

4) Snip the edges of the 1/2 circle.

This makes the petals of the posie.

Don’t snip the ball of the pin!

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5) Take the two outside edges and fold them to the center. Make a few stitches here to keep them together.

Pull it tight so they meet together.

Knot the thread and snip.

6) Fluff the raw edges a bit to loosen them up and have them ravel a bit.

6.

It’s a Challenge…

and you’re on

Welcome to the Monthly Challenge. Each month a new topic will be chosen and announced in the latest addition of The Sewing Cottage e-Magazine.

The topics will explore different sewing techniques, methods or ‘themed’.

Along with this challenge I have included a few extra articles, tutorials, links to blogs, or whatever else I find to help you Accomplish the challenge!

It’s no fun doing a challenge by yourself, so join the fun– learn something new and share with us your progress along the way.

This months challenge topic:

Paper Piecing Rules: * Sew Along of course! * Give the challenge topic a try– either with the free pattern included in this issue, or another pattern you have or find * Share your progress- www.facebook.com/patchworkposse in the Challenge Photo Gallery- can’t wait to see them! * Photos shared do not have to be completed, but do have to be relevant to the monthly challenge topic- or a previous topic * Additional hints, tips, and maybe a giveaway will be added on the blog and facebook! Make sure you subscribe so you don’t miss any of it!

After looking around for a bit I snatched up some great descriptions of paper piecing and have included them in this months issue. At the end of the descriptions you will find some wonderful links for additional paper piecing patterns, ideas and tutorails.

If you have any additional ideas, thoughts, links or whatever about Paper Piecing stop by the facebook page and share them! We are all here to learn together.

Foundation/Paper Piecing You've probably heard the term paper piecing, even if you are a brand new quilter. The term is a bit confusing, because paper piecing is one of the methods used in foundation piecing, and has become the name most quilters associate with the technique.

Foundation piecing is a traditional method that's had a dramatic rebirth since the early 1990's. Miniature quilt enthusiasts were among the first to "rediscover" foundation piecing, because when it's done correctly, blocks are perfect every time, no matter how small their patches are.

String piecing is another term you'll hear, and a popular "freehand" foundation piecing technique.

Paper foundations are a popular choice (but don't confuse this method with English paper piecing -- that's a totally different technique). Flip and sew and sew and flip are two more terms associated with foundation/paper piecing. Both describe the actions of sewing a foundation pieced block.

Intro to Foundation/Paper Piecing When you foundation piece, you sew patches onto an exact replica -- or template -- of a quilt block or portion of a block. The foundation template can be drawn or printed on paper, fabric or another material. The only seam allowance on the template is the one around the outer perimeter of the unit.

With the paper piecing method I like best, fabric is positioned on the reverse side of the foundation template, with edges overlapping drawn lines. Seams are sewn on the front, directly on the lines, and the overlapped edges of fabric become seam allowances. If you position fabric carefully, and sew on the lines, your blocks will be perfect every time.

It's more difficult to describe foundation piecing that to do it -- you'll find that it's one of the easiest techniques you've ever tried. We'll get to some projects in a bit, but first let's talk about foundation piecing options.

Foundation Materials Foundation templates can be permanent or temporary. Permanent foundations stay in the quilt forever. Temporary foundations are usually removed after the blocks are joined, but before the quilt is sandwiched with batting and backing.

Permanent vs. Temporary Foundations: Permanent foundations add an extra layer that can make hand quilting difficult.

Permanent foundations add bulk to seam allowances.

Permanent foundations remain to stabilize patches, so you can use up bits and pieces of your stash without regard to grain placement.

You can use longer stitches on permanent foundations.

It takes time to remove most types of temporary foundations, especially when patches are small.

Permanent Foundation Choices Lightweight muslin and other cottons are traditional choices for permanent foundations. Woven fabric has a tendency to stretch during handling--and that can skew your blocks. Moisture enhances stretch, so use a dry iron to press during assembly.

It's easy to print on fabric when you back it with freezer paper.

Non-woven interfacing is another option. It's sheer, doesn't stretch, and template lines are visible from both sides to make fabric placement a cinch.

Temporary foundations are sewn with short stitches that help perforate the template for easier removal and keep seams stable when foundations are pulled away. Short stitches can be difficult to remove if you must rip out a seam to correct errors.

Temporary Foundation Materials- Smooth vellum can be used for temporary foundations and will feed through most laser printers. Blank newsprint is another choice, and pulls away easily after sewing.

Commercial foundations are also available. Many are made to pass easily through inkjet and laser printers.

Piece by Number Sew Hooked During Quiet Time Pink penguin

This tutorial is being shared by Annie of Annie’s Musings….. She has written one of the best tutorials on paper piecing that I have seen in a long time! You are for sure going to pick up on her technique quickly and make paper piecing something you love to sew!

Take it away Annie– I first discovered paper piecing as a sure way to sew perfect quilt squares with perfect points because I did not at all like the idea of cutting all those little pieces and stitching them together just so and perfectly...I knew that wasn't going to happen. Being inflicted with the "perfectionist" illness without the patience for it, traditional quilt blocks were not going to be in my future.

But I also was drawn to how many perfect little cutsie designs could be created with paper piecing. I can applique endlessly, but having the designs with stitched-in seams was very enticing for me. After laying out a small fortune for books and patterns, I was initially disappointed that nothing was coming out perfect! AND, I was spending way too much time with my seam ripper and getting such poor results. However, as usual, persistence pays off and I discovered little secrets and tips that have made paper piecing easier and quite enjoyable. So much so that I've even taught myself to make some of my own patterns. So, without further ado, let's stitch up my ice cream cone pattern.

First, get your pattern on paper that you will stitch on. You don't need fancy paper...I use regular 20# copy paper. This pattern is in 4 sections and you may be thinking that it's too complicated for a beginner...NOT!...with my tips for you, there is no such thing as a complicated paper piecing pattern. (At least that's how I feel about it now.) Cut the sections apart...don't be precise, just cut outside the seam allowance line.

Gather your fabrics. These can be from your scrap bin or you can make new scraps. I use both, depending on whether I have scraps for my plan or not. This particular pattern needs more background fabric than ice cream fabric so I just have chunks that are large enough for each scoop. But for the background fabric that will require several sections within each section, refer to the next photo.

Take note of which background section is the largest and about what size it is at it's widest part.

Then add maybe a 1/2" to that measurement and slice a strip off your yardage to use for all your background pieces. Again, no need to be preceise...you'll have the whole lenghth to work with if the short end is not wide enough. Now you're ready to start stitching. Set your machine stitch length for a shorter than usual length. I normally stitch at 2-1/2 so I stitch paper piecing at just under 2.

It doesn't matter which section you start with. It only matters that you sew in numerical order with each section. (Even this rule can have exceptions, but for learning purposes, let's stick with the numerical order rule.) Take your cone fabric, lay it wrong side to the plain side of the paper being sure it covers past the cone lines. This is the only time you will want to hold this up to the light to be sure it covers. And you don't need to give a hoot about straight of grain...love that!

Next...

...and here's where life gets really easy...(and every section you sew here after will be done this same way)...hold your pattern facing you with the next number section above the previous number section that you placed or just sewed. With your thumbs, mark each end of the sewing line.

Fold it forward enough to see that you will place it on the right side of the background fabric strip with enough for a seam allowance showing and that there is still background fabric going past each of your thumbs. You need at least an 1/8" of seam allowance. Everything after that will get cut off. I usually allow about 1/4". Bring everything to your machine (the photo just shows the seam allowance you will have after sewing.) Keeping your pattern and two pieces of fabric in that position lying flat to stitch on the paper pattern line.

Now, some patterns end up with a pile of seams all in one place...such as a pinwheel...and you will want to press your seams open rather than to one side. If you want to press them open, you cannot sew all the way across the seam allowance. I always make only one stitch in the seam allowance (this also helps for trimming 1/8" seam allowances which in turn keeps fabric bulk at a minimum. Stitch on the line and at the end, sew only one stitch into the seam allowance. Now for trimming...

Flip the sewn section over to the fabric side and trim "all" the fabrics in that seam allowance to 1/8". (Trim them all together, not one at a time) DO NOT CUT THE PAPER! Now here is where I can't believe I didn't take a pressing photo...but open your newly sewn piece and press it back over it's seam allowance. It is said that you only need to finger press, but that isn't pressed enough for me. I use an "iron on a stick" (Clover mini iron) or my regular iron. Then from your pattern side, chop away the excess fabric outside the seam allowance.

Now find your next number, hold the pattern so that number is at the top and repeat the above steps until there is fabric behind every number.

Now getting the sections ready to be joined...

When you photo copy a pattern, there is every possibility that it won't be the "exact" size as the original. So even though I draw a 1/4" seam allowance around my pattern, I still cut that 1/4" allowance by the measurement of my ruler...it usually cuts just outside my drawn line. Now we're ready to join the sections...but first, a few helpful extra tips to get you through the paper piecing process even easier..

Many times a necessary section will only be sewn in by a couple of stitches. After stitching be sure to hold the stitches in place as you pull the stitching away from the presser foot to cut your thread...otherwise you'll just pull them right out.

Don't worry about how much fabric you have in your seam allowance when your sew a piece in because you will trim away all but an 1/8" anyway. These chunks you cut off can be used for small sections as you go along.

You can see in my example that my top scoop fabric is way more than I needed. I actually changed the direction I was going to use it in, but as long as you end up with your fabric pieces extended past the sewing lines, too big is not a concern...too small is a major concern. You can hold your work up to the light to check it if you need to.

And this next one is important because a mistake will no doubt happen at some time...

Remove your stitches carefully, I would suggest one at a time so as not to disturb the paper. 20# copy paper is pretty tough, but if you use something lighter, be careful not to tear it...too much.

When you resew the line, stitch in the same exact holes...and I say this, because if you still don't sew it correctly...because I probably got distracted :-)...and you need to take the stitches out again, your paper pattern will remain intact.

Now we're ready to connect our sections...

I join these sections from the bottom up but it doesn't really matter which order you do them.

The seam joining the cone and the first yummy scoop is a straight seam, so you just line them up and stitch all the way across. Be sure you've sewn the right seams together...then before pressing them, I remove the paper in the seam allowance. Fold it over, then tear it away. You can now either press the seam to one side or press it open.

Now for the angled seams. These are the ones that really got to me and made me cringe when I saw a pattern in sections. I could never get them right until I finally figured out how to easily...

Lay the sections together the way they go. Push a pin through the corresponding seam line corners of both pieces being sure the pin comes through both corner points. Hold the piece so the pin is straight across...this will keep your two sections exactly as they need to be. I wouldn't pin the sections together because once you angle the pin, the sections will slip slightly apart. If you're trying to match points, you won't be happy about that! Get the piece into sewing position before removing the pin at the end. It really isn't difficult, just be sure it stays where you want it when you begin to sew. You can even touch the seam allowance lightly with a glue stick for an assisted temporary hold. If your design requires matching a section in the center of the piece, poke your pins through those matching spots rather than at the ends. Stitch, check your match, tear the paper from the seam as you did previously and press.

Now let's tear away the rest of the paper...

Work from the outside to the inside. Fold the paper up on the stitched line then tear away. The inside pieces tear away easier. I like to use tweezers with teeth to grab small pieces. It doesn't really matter if every tiny bit of paper is removed.

My ice cream cone pattern can be found here.

To finish off the top and bottom, I've sewn on a sash piece.

Your paper piecing patterns can be done in any size you want them just by reducing and enlarging the pattern.

The lime sherbet cone is at 50% the size of the original. Just remember when you reduce and enlarge that included 1/4" seam allowances will not be at 1/4" anymore.

I more enjoy the smaller paper piecing projects than the full size quilt sizes, but any size can be sewn in the manner as I've shown above. If I've left you still feeling you have questions, please don't hesitate to ask. Following are some of my paper piecing projects.

This project is perfect for your scraps bag. Snatch up some fabric scraps and print off the pattern. You will be sewing 1 mushroom of each kind. So one copy is just fine.

Understand that this paper piecing pattern DOES NOT include the 1/4″ seam allowance. The only time you need to worry about that is at the end when you are trimming your whole block, but just be aware.

Grab your scraps and your paper and let’s get going!

After you have cut out your template, lay the chosen fabric for the mushroom stem on the bottom of the pattern. Notice that the right side is facing away from the paper. I have pinned this piece– it always shifts when you turn it to sew…so pin it! {a flat pin will work the best} You will need to make sure that your piece is at least 1/4″ larger than the template it is for….remember, the seam allowance is not given. The lines that you see on the template are your SEWING LINES!! So, you will need your fabric to go past this 1/4″ so you won’t get holes in your mushrooms later.

With the paper on the bottom and the fabric on the top, fold back one edge until you line up the black line with the edge- Use your wooden pressure here to get a good crease.

Open the paper and fabric up- you will notice that there is a crease in the fabric. If you can’t see it well enough, refold and repress with the wooden pressure.

Place your next piece right side down on top…..let this piece go past the crease 1/4″ for your seam allowance.

Pinch with your fingers or pin in place, then turn so the paper is now on top– showing your sewing lines.

Sew on the lines with your sewing machine. * backstitch at both ends- this will help the seam stay when you are removing the paper later.

Open up the fabric that you have just sewn and using your wooden iron, give it a good press.

Fold back the fabric and the paper {you don’t want to cut it!} and trim any extra fabric that is past the seam. If you don’t, it will make the block bulky and if there is a lighter color on top the other seam will show through!

Repeat the same process with the other side.

Repeat the same process with the top of the mushroom. It really is like sewing by number. lol Make sure you use your wooden iron with each step and it will keep your seams nice and no puckers in the folds!

Place the block right sides facing down, paper on top. Trim your block using the paper as a guide. Cut 1/4″ past the outside edge {remember this is your seam allowance!} Sew the top of the mushroom to the bottom of the mushroom, making one complete mushroom block.

Sew the blocks together, side by side. Trim to 8 1/2″ X 7 1/2″ Cut 4 strips for the border 2– 2″ X 7 1/2″ 2– 2″ X 11 1/2″ Sew the borders to the sides and top and bottom Trim to 10 1/2″ X 11 1/2″ Cut back and batting same size.

Sew all the way around leaving a 3″ opening for turning.

This pattern was shared on The Sewing Loft during The National Sewing Month

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Gnome Meadows Quilt- great for sharpening your paper piecing techniques. The simple design and layout make this quilt sewable for all abilities. Choose bright, fun and quirky fabrics to show off.

Butterfly quilt–- The centers or bodies of the Butterfly are signed by each sewer of the block. This is a great block trade with others‌.or make them all and hang them in time for the butterfly season.

Butterfly Signature Quilt 32” X 26” Materials Needed: 24- 3 1/8 X 6 ½ X Butterfly Wings 24- 2 ½ X X 4 1/4 Background 12- 1 ½ X 6 ½ Body st

1 border: 2- 1 ½ X 27 2- 1 ½ X 19 nd

2 border: 2- 3 X 21 2- 3 X 32 Prairie Points: 40- 3” X 3” squares ' scrappy colors

Butterfly Signature Quilt

By Patchwork Posse

1) Lay 1 butterfly wing on background piece. Angle the wing and sew along edge.

2) Repeat process for other side.

3) Square up edges. 2 ½ X 4 ¼ 4) Repeat steps 1-3 until you have a total of 24 wings.

5) Layout block and sew together. 12 Butterfly Blocks finished 6) Trim all blocks to 6 ½ X 6 ½

Sew into rows of 4. Sew 3 of these. Sew these rows together.

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Borders: Add the 1 border using the 4 -1 ½ strips. Sew 19” strips to the top and bottom . Sew the 2” strips to the sides.

Butterfly Signature Quilt

By Patchwork Posse

Prairie Points: 1) Fold your 3” X 3” block in half diagonally. Iron flat.

3) Fold in half again and iron flat.

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4) Start pinning in place the prairie points on your 1 border {right sides facing up} hint: tuck the fold in between the 2 points 1/4”

5) You will have 11 prairie points on the sides {each}and 9 prairie points on the top and bottom {each}. 6) Sew these to the border using a seam allowance less than 1 1. nd

You don't want those stitches to show up later. i) Lay the 2 border on the top {right sides together}and sew on. Will be a little bit thick. Sew slowly.1 1seam .

8) Repeat for the other sides. Your Butterfly Quilt top is finished!!!

Measures:32X26

Foxie Adventures Block of a Month, is a fun wall hanging that will teach you the raw-edge applique method. This method makes applique super easy and ‘whimsical’ in style.

The Foxie pair love new activities each month– going from raking leaves, fishing, parades, spring showers, flowers and more!

Sew along with them, month by month

This issue is a preview issue of The Sewing Cottage e-Magazine. The preview issues are not complete. There are patterns which are only available to subscribers of the e-magazine online.

Please visit: Patchwork Posse if you are interested in receiving complete patterns contained in the issue.

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Becky Blog

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