Universal Haircutting Method (UHM)
®
Journal of Orthocouralogy
No. 7
and Associated Disciplines !
Haircutting Architecture and Hairstyling Design Art and Logic
Innovative fundamental haircutting instruction Orthocouralogical Venn diagrams “engineered to be the most simple and rational academic type of educational approach”
Investigation of the the common basic haircuts standards Master Program
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The Slanted HD a missing fundamental in traditional academic haircutting instruction
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November 8th 2014
ORTHOCOURALOGY
Patrick F. Garelle
Haircutting Architecture and Hairstyling Design Art and Logic
Report
Abbreviated investigation of the common “basic haircuts” standards REVIEW , REFORM, and RE-ANALYZE
ORTHOCOURALOGY
ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle
Journal of Orthocouralogy and Associated Disciplines !
Haircutting Architecture and Hairstyling Design Art and Logic
Orthocouralogy or The Scientific Method of Haircutting "The Journal of Orthocouralogy and Associated Disciplines" (JO-AD) will be a publication introducing a new discipline: the formal, academic study of the art, method, technique of haircutting, designated by the term "orthocouralogy." This journal aims towards the dissemination of research findings which are scientifically based, in order to improve both professional and teaching performance in the field. Such scientifically designed methodology had previously been regarded as undefinable by many or eagerly awaited by others. Overdue, then, since the early years of the 20th century, "JO-AD" should cause a significant turnaround. It is intended for all professionals, salon owners, manufacturers, and enterprises with interests in this flourishing field. STRATEGY involves two main stages of dissemination. The first involves publication of existing haircutting theories and commonly held technical beliefs, along with challenges to those assumptions. In the second stage, unlimited publication of articles dealing with non-technical aspects, such as political or legal ones, would serve as a platform or forum for investigators. BREAKTHROUGH adapts mathematics to the system of haircutting. Art is translated into science in several logical and explicit chapters. A new philosophy for instructing and also practicing is put into place. Some major institutions in the beauty industry, as well as professors, doctors, librarians, and trained stylists have already been receptive. "The creation of orthocouralogy is revolutionary and should change the way haircutting is learned...This program boosts the level of education way up." MANDATE constitutes the need to review and reform and re-analyze the validity of all previously held standards. Orthocouralogy and the journal, "JO-AD," invite a thorough, serious investigation of professional regulations on all levels, including cosmetic licensing. This will prove to be essential for all existing and potential students. Such reform is imperative and inevitable.
Š Copyright 2014 Patrick Garelle international corp ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
This first part of this Journal represents a brief introduction to what has contributed to build the foundation of the orthocouralogical methodology. The second part (beginning on page 14) explains why the concept of “basic haircuts” is different between orthocouralogy and the traditional instructional approach. That second part also raises the issue of the questionable validity of all previous held basic haircutting standards used for the purpose of fundamental haircutting instruction. The whole idea is to improve technical capabilities at all levels, make it easier to teach, and ultimately raise artistic performance. This content is cognitively engineered to be the most simple and rational academic type of educational approach with the objective to provide a comprehensive, simple and reliable way to plan haircutting instruction. The use of Venn diagrams is an efficient way to explain this haircutting educational theory. Only some examples of these Venn diagrams are disclosed in this journal. Other Venn diagrams will be disclosed as needed. Orthocouralogy defines the fundamental technical tools necessary to give the greatest number of haircut designs. It teaches students to physically execute, in a comprehensive and safe way, haircut designs originating from their own imagination.
To all instructors Empirical evidence based on direct observations, such as looking at different haircut structures, as well as indirect observations, as when physically analyzing haircut structures, has led to the development of this logical teaching strategy. In addition, rational discourse, involving the adaptation and use of elementary mathematics was adapted as a highly efficient method of explaining how a haircut can be given logically. That is the purpose of the creation of Orthocouralogy. Orthocouralogy is a sensible, factual, empirical, and logical approach to haircutting methodology.
ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle
ONLY SINGLE
Orthocouralogy DUALS
S B L L A Scientific Method for Teaching and and Execution of a Haircut Date and place of creation: 2006, New York City/NY, USA L S L→ S Orthocouralogical haircutting: The study of the art, science, and techniques used to cut hair correctly, change hair’s architectural and structural properties B L→ B Sfor the primary purpose of keeping it healthy, and giving hair artistic dimension. L S→L Any haircut design is given using one or more of the following OrthocouraFundamental (Structural) Haircutting Architectural Designs, (OFAHD): S logical B S→B B Orthocouralogical Fundamental (Structural) Architectural Blunt Haircutting Design, (OFABHD) Fundamental (Structural) Architectural Layering Haircutting L B Orthocouralogical B→L Design, (OFALHD) Ortho-fundamental Fundamental (Structural) Architectural Slanting/Oblique S B → SDesign, (OFASHD) Haircutting Triples S→B→L A combination of OFAHD designs is made from two of the above OFAHDs. S
B L
L→ S→ B B→ L→ S
ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle
Fundamentals of the theory of Orthocouralogy based on isolation of haircutting architectural/structural principles. The idea to isolate each haircutting fundamental (structural) architectural design, and use these designs to invent a rational haircutting theory which could be used to plan logical, basic/fundamental haircutting instruction, and to prepare for more advanced levels. Once the isolation process is achieved, a thorough individual and applicable study of each fundamental structure could be created. After that, the theory of fundamental haircut structural combinations could be implemented. Then, when a combination study is concluded, an infinite number of haircut designs could be technically explained. This approach might be an example where the use of common sense and logic could be seen as meeting the art of haircutting. The art of combining fundamental haircutting architectural structures, including their variables, could contribute to create nearly an infinite number of haircut designs which could be explainable, and thus given in a controllable way. Additionally, the use of other haircutting techniques, considered as non-fundamental, could be added to give different dimensions, or modify or add different physical properties to a haircut design, without changing its basic structure. Some basic questions Could basic haircut structural designs exist alone, and therefore be seen as pure? In other words, could basic haircut architectural structure with a unique functionality exist without restricting creativity, quality, repeatability, and correct instruction? If so, what are they? Could basic haircut structural architecture be found? Could basic haircut structural architecture be reasonably defined as being pure? Could basic haircut structural architecture be usable to give any haircut design? The answer is yes. Three basic architectural structures (ortho-fundamental haircut structures) have been found to truly be able to explain and practice the art of haircutting three dimensionally, in a 3D space, as it is supposed to be, versus using a two dimensionally mind (the way it is formally taught) in a three dimensional environment/ space. What is said here is that traditional formal haircutting instruction is basically missing one important dimension, and that is being lenient, since in fact that traditional program do not attribute any dimensional function to any of its basic haircuts, beside missing an important one. . Then mental rationalization, valid explanation, and application of the theory could take place. . Then all basic haircutting structural architectural principles could be defined. . Then, based on structural analysis, classification of these findings and designating them as true fundamental architectural haircutting structures or “orthocouralogical fundamental architectural haircut designs” (OFAHD) could occur. ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle
Ortho-Fundamental Architectural/Structural Haircut Designs (OFAHD) Isolation Theory Some results of the ortho-isolation process: •
Allows more precision in general technical explanation
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Allows/permits the reasonable conclusion that only three fundamental architectural structural haircutting designs/OFAHD are necessary to give any haircuts
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Allows the definition of each OFAHD
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Allows the development of a logical methodology for learning/teaching how to cut hair efficiently, without being confused or misled by subjective and unfounded theories
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Allows the setting of new basic technical standards, based on true and logical values
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Allows the formalization of logical haircutting theories
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Allows the creation of new curriculum
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Allows the engineering of serious knowledge tests
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Allows the grading of levels of knowledge
ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle
Short list of technical specifications - Each Fundamental Architectural Haircut Design represents, on its own, a unique technical performance that can be fairly easily recognized and appreciated. - Each Fundamental Architectural Haircut Design generally requires different technical approaches, although two (Slanted and Blunt), can from close to each other in the way they look and the way they are given. - Each Fundamental Architectural Haircut Design definition is different. - Each Fundamental Architectural Haircut Design has its own set of difficulties. - Each Fundamental Architectural Haircut Design has its own set of qualifying physical property rules. - Each Fundamental Architectural Haircut Design requires a different physical approach. - Each Fundamental Architectural Haircut Design represents a unique and single basic ortho-architectural haircut design. - When combined one way or another, in pairs, or all together, they can ultimately be recognized. The Fundamental Architectural Haircut Designs are the bases of all haircut designs that can be created and be explained. The methodology uses a teaching block system, rationally organized, and based on the philosophical assumption that haircutting can be done logically. The challenge is to try to give the perfect physical representation of each OFAHD, or a design being a combination of OFAHDs.
ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle
Phase 1 of the observation process (in brief) The founding of the methodology was simply based on having observed the structures of a large number of haircut designs. The idea was to research (considering the greatest number of haircuts) if all these haircuts had structural commonalities. The technical analysis involved the manipulation of hair in order to support the theory that took place on an everyday basis. If common structures could be found in what was thought could be considered as complex haircut designs, then it was assumed it could be isolated/separated and studied separately. Conclusions based on three hypotheses gave birth to what has come to be believed as a very simple and logical way to teach the art of haircutting, and led to a methodology thought to be fairly logical. In 2006, the purposeful empirical observation of people’s hair in the streets of Manhattan, NY began.
Phase 2 of the observation process (in brief) Phase 2 of the analysis was the elimination of all variables denominated “dimensional effects”, which could not be considered as primary haircutting techniques to give haircuts in the most controllable and repeatable way. Again, the approach was to reduce technical complications to a minimum, in order to make it simple, avoid confusion, and increase learning efficiency. Once most techniques for giving any haircuts were listed (e.g.: layers, blunt, thinning, hatching, slanting, etc), the goal was to decide which ones could be considered as being the primary/fundamental applicable techniques to give any haircut design. Without making fair and rational decisions which haircutting structural techniques could be denominated as being fundamental for giving any haircut design, no fundamental and logical haircutting theory based on fundamental architectural principles could be acceptable and could truly exist.
ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle
Founding the Basic Methodology of Orthocouralogy Art and Science Classification by Categories  The three possible Fundamental Architectural Haircut Designs are defined by categories as follows: The Layered HDs, which represented as architecturally fundamental or pure, can only be Layered HDs. The Slanted HDs, which represented as architecturally fundamental or pure, can only be Slanted HDs. The Blunt HDs, which represented as architecturally fundamental or pure, can only be Blunt HDs. For educational purposes, and cognitive and design engineering, each of those fundamental architectural haircut designs were graphically and color symbolized. This straightforward symbolization was made possible due the ability to isolate each architectural principle necessary to give any haircut design, and is part of the Universal Code of Haircutting or UCH. The following symbols represent the three fundamental categories of Orthocouralogical Fundamental Architectural Haircut Designs or OFAHD. The white letter represents the category of OFAHD involved (Layered, Slanted, or Blunt), and the blue pictograph symbolizes the general category of OFAHD fundamental. These letters and pictographs are part of the universal code of haircutting (UCH), which has been designed for technical and international communication.  (Note: Other/different pictographs, more specific to each OFHD category and part of the orthocouralogical library exist.)
Symbolization of the Ortho-Fundamental Architectural Haircut Designs
Category Fundamental Layered HD
Category Fundamental Slanted HD
ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle
Category Fundamental Blunt HD
Classic Architectural Structures of Orthocouralogy in Venn Diagrams
ORTHO-VENN-COMBINATION and ORDERS of FUNDAMENTALS/OAFHD (in brief) Orthocouralogical Fundamental architectural elements
OFALHD, OFABHD, OFASHD, and COMPOSITE/COMBINATION The order in which different basic procedures (layering, blunting, slanting) can be used to give a complex haircut is based on the procedure strategy you might decide to chose. Unless a recommended procedure is available for a given haircut, or a series of similar haircuts, you will have to determine the best way, most practical way, or most efficient way to give that haircut. The order in which a haircut can be given can be relative to the procedure chosen to fix a haircut for a given desired result. The Orthocouralogical program offers very specific recommendations about structural technical order which has been tested, but mostly is the result of common sense.
ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle
Orthocouralogical Venn Diagram (ortho-Venn diagram) 7 different ways to use each category of OFAHD (Venn diagram with variable limited to combinations)
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- A haircut design (HD) could be the representation of one category of OFAHD. - A HD could be the representation of two different OFAHDs. - A HD could be the representation of three OFAHDs. - The number and the different magnitudes of fundamental structural cores involved in the creation of a HD, whether that HD is given using one or more fundamental structural architectural haircut designs are considered as being variables. -Techniques such as thinning, hatching, considered as haircutting dimensional techniques, are part of the variables which can change the appearance of a haircut design, but should not change the basic infrastructure of a HD. - In general terms, the difference in hair physical properties (e.g.: straight, wavy, curly) are additional variables which can change the physical appearance (e.g.: apparent volume, apparent length, VHW shape) of a given HD, without making any structural changes. ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle
ORTHO-VENN-COMBINATION and ORDERS of OFAHD
OFAHD combinations and orders L
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An Haircut Design can be the representation of one and only one OFAHD
OFAHDs can be combined in pair, and in different orders
6 different orders/combinations of 2 OFHDs
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B→S All OFAHDs can be combined in different orders
6 different orders/combinations of 3 OFHDs TRIPLE
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ORTHOCOURALOGY
S→B→L
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S→ L→B
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Examples of Variables Involved in Haircutting (in brief, a variable not classified here) - A haircut design (HD) could be the representation of one category of OFAHD. - A HD could be the representation of two different OFAHDs. - A HD could be the representation of three OFAHDs. - The different magnitudes of fundamental structural cores involved in the creation of a HD, whether that HD is given using one or more fundamental structural architectural haircut designs, are considered as being variables. - Techniques such as thinning, hatching, considered as haircutting dimensional techniques, are part of the variable which should not be used to change the main physical structural/core of a haircut design, but should be used as an example to modify the density of an hair-mass (thinning techniques) or change the regularity of a texture or linear quality of a segment-cut, line of cut, and a VHW. •
In general terms, the difference in hair physical properties (e.g.: straight, wavy, curly) are additional variables which can change the physical appearances (e.g.: apparent volume, apparent length, VHW shape) of given HD without making any structural changes.
- Bangs/Fringes or BF (not all) are considered as added structures and be another set of variables which can be used to modify the fundamental aspect of any haircut design.
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Example of ortho-Venn diagram. Objective: To develop analytical sense.
Based on this ortho- Venn diagram and with out the support of the written or coded haircutting procedure, it is possible to say that this haircut presents architectural physical characteristics that are mainly blunt. The slanted portion is hatched.
Orthocouralogical code of haircutting
ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle
Intuitive Methods
2006
Logical Methods
Before Orthocouralogy - After Orthocouralogy
How different is Orthocouralogy from any other haircutting instructional approach, based on the number of fundamental or basics? (in brief) In Orthocouralogy, only three basic/fundamental haircut structural architectural designs exist. All other educational approaches, count four or more called basic haircuts, that are not basic, and even show incoherence, and lack of structure from a technical point of view. Each of these three orthocouralogical fundamental structural principles could be reasonably associated, and even logically correspond individually to one dimension of what makes or defines the three dimensional space, using measurement: height, length, width, depth and volume). Indeed, it has been found to be possible that each of those ortho-fundamental architectural haircut designs (OFAHDs) could have a specific structural architecture function. Based on these findings, it was important to engineer a methodology which not only made sense, but could also be proven to be valid in terms of basic or fundamental technical value.
ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle
Haircutting Basic Theory Comparisons (Orthocouralogy vs other approaches) (in brief)
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1: Layered haircut designs (HDs) in terms of ortho-fundamental architectural/structural layered haircut design (OFALHD) and category are those haircuts showing only layered structural properties. In terms of style these haircuts can be of different (short style, long style, very long style, or in common language, short hair, long hair etc). What does this mean compared to other educational approaches? It means that the style of the haircut does not make the category. Therefore, under the Orthocouralogical rules, what is considered (in different methods) as a “long-layered haircut” cannot be considered as a “basic haircut” since it is reasonably speaking only of a variation of style, and still remains a layered haircut. 2: Blunt haircut designs (HDs), in terms of ortho-fundamental architectural/structural blunt haircut design (OFABHD) and category, are those haircut designs showing only blunt structural properties having all the hair cut on a circular path or variable plans, which can be configured horizontally or inclined/slanted (based on specific criteria) or a combination of both. What does this mean compared to other educational approaches? Commonly believed definitions, such as “all hair cut at the same level” is too often impossible to achieve, or not suggested. It becomes confusing, when added to that definition it is said that “the cutting line can be diagonal, or rounded.” That definition leads to question the affirmative statement “a blunt haircut has all hair cut at the same level.” Interestingly, some do not define that category of HDs, which leaves students to their own intuition and confusion as to what is a blunt HD, and leaves instructors with no clear standards of instruction.
Special attention - NEW (in brief) 3: Slanted haircut designs, in terms of ortho-fundamental architectural/structural slanted haircut design (OFASHD) and category, are those HDs that show only specifically slanted/ inclined structural properties which, relative to the directional slant trend, is different than any slanted blunt HDs since that trend is reversed. • In terms of skills, the OFASHD requires skill development that is different than the other two OFAHDs. • In term of difficulty an OFASHD involving steep and long vertical drops/slants can be considered as being more difficult to master that any other two OFAHDs.
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- Most generally, and in terms of structure, the OFASHD allows transit from a higher starting point from a forward datum, to a lower level, located at an aft datum. The hair-mass distribution is based on specific desired design criteria, and the slanted path on which a given hairmass is distributed and cut must, as a standard, follow the straightest path (but not limited to) from the selected highest point to the lowest point. What does this mean compared to other educational approaches? That OFASHD simply doesn’t exist as a fundamental/basic HD. The fact is there is not specific definition nor defined description to allowed the flexibility to say that this fundamental HD is somewhat reasonably define one way or an other. ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle
What Must Be Known About the OFASHD As a basic function, cutting hair on a slanted path allows to transit from short to long (shorter length to longer length). It is because of that function or reason that this very distinguishing/unique haircut architectural structure has been termed as fundamental or basic. Over all, mastering this haircutting technique at all different range of length/style, type, models requires different handling skills than is necessary to give the representation of any other category of OFAHDs. Not having the knowledge and being proficient at giving this category of haircut the most correct way possible, haircutting instruction and practice are highly compromised. The missing fundamental structural architectural haircut design must be learned in order to have all the necessary technical knowledge to practice the art of haircutting in all three dimensions. CONCLUSION IN BRIEF, limited to the terminology or meaning of the term “Basic Haircut” Based on educational literacy and haircutting standards founded internationally, the following list of “basic haircuts” is used to teach how to cut hair in a professional way. That list was greatly shortened purposely, as it would be redundant to list all of them due to their fair similarities. blunt cut plunging forward blunt haircut graduated cut, commonly described as the “45 degrees elevation cut” (questionable) - layered cut commonly, called “90 degrees haircut, or Uniform-Layered Haircut/form” (proven to be highly questionable in the JO-AD issue NO. 6) • long layered cut, commonly described as the “180 degrees cut/increased layered form (also questionable about its true theoretical application) • • •
The following are remarks, rather than conclusions, since some of those basic haircuts are technically highly questionable as to their theoretical true applications, thus based on their corresponding definition. • The “graduate haircut/form, the uniform-layered haircut/form, and the long layered haircut/for” are part of the same category of haircut (under the classification rules of Orthocouralogy). They are, in theoretical fact, all layered haircuts, and can be theoretically sub-classified as types of layered haircuts. The pictures used to represent their respective structure often do not represent the outcome of the haircutting technique being used, which creates confusion. Although all these haircuts are technically questionable, they can only be considered from a theoretical point of view as part of a “basic” category of haircuts. •
The “blunt, and plunging forward haircut” are two types of haircuts of the same category. In that case, they can be considered as being part of a basic category. ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle
Based on that quick analysis The “slanted haircut design”, previously introduced as an unavoidable basic architectural structure necessary to learn to practice haircutting in all dimensions, simply does not exist. Therefore, only two basic categories of haircuts are taught in haircutting literacy standards. The missing technical subject, “slanted HD”/OFASHD, which cannot be taken as an opinion, represents a serious lack in the domain of haircutting instruction, and therefore, cosmetology. Added to other issues, such as the ones treated in The JO-Ad numbers 2, 4, and 6, the reasons and need to review, reform, and reanalyze the usability and validity of all previously commonly held technical beliefs and standards seems to be essential.
ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle
Example of standard procedure diagram for knowledge assessment test (Ortho-Isolation Theory and OFAHD Combinations only) Ortho-isolation theory presentation and explanation (Ortho-fundamental architectural structure classification)
OFALHD - definition - variables - procedures
Knowledge evaluation test
OFABHD - definition - variables - procedures
OFASHD - definition - variables - procedures
Knowledge evaluation test
Knowledge evaluation test
Combinations of OFAHDs - scenario - variable - procedures
ORTHOCOURALOGY Knowledge evaluation test (Master Program elementary level)
Endorsement (needed for future certification)
Certification
ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle