Universal Haircutting Method (UHM)
®
Journal of Orthocouralogy
No. 10
and Associated Disciplines !
Haircutting Architecture and Hairstyling Design Art and Logic Master Program
Volume vs relative/apparent volume Defining the word “volume” in the domain of haircutting and hairstyling Volume classification table TV
April 22nd 2015
3
3
vs R/A V
Orthocouralogist a new type of professional
Patrick F. Garelle
Journal of Orthocouralogy and Associated Disciplines !
Haircutting Architecture and Hairstyling Design Art and Logic
Orthocouralogy or The Scientific Method of Haircutting "The Journal of Orthocouralogy and Associated Disciplines" (JO-AD) will be a publication introducing a new discipline: the formal, academic study of the art, method, technique of haircutting, designated by the term "orthocouralogy." This journal aims towards the dissemination of research findings which are scientifically based, in order to improve both professional and teaching performance in the field. Such scientifically designed methodology had previously been regarded as undefinable by many or eagerly awaited by others. Overdue, then, since the early years of the 20th century, "JO-AD" should cause a significant turnaround. It is intended for all professionals, salon owners, manufacturers, and enterprises with interests in this flourishing field. STRATEGY involves two main stages of dissemination. The first involves publication of existing haircutting theories and commonly held technical beliefs, along with challenges to those assumptions. In the second stage, unlimited publication of articles dealing with non-technical aspects, such as political or legal ones, would serve as a platform or forum for investigators. BREAKTHROUGH adapts mathematics to the system of haircutting. Art is translated into science in several logical and explicit chapters. A new philosophy for instructing and also practicing is put into place. Some major institutions in the beauty industry, as well as professors, doctors, librarians, and trained stylists have already been receptive. "The creation of orthocouralogy is revolutionary and should change the way haircutting is learned...This program boosts the level of education way up." MANDATE constitutes the need to review and reform and re-analyze the validity of all previously held standards. Orthocouralogy and the journal, "JO-AD," invite a thorough, serious investigation of professional regulations on all levels, including cosmetic licensing. This will prove to be essential for all existing and potential students. Such reform is imperative and inevitable.
Š Copyright 2015 Patrick Garelle international corp ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Volume
orthocouralogical
volume
Orthocouralogy necessitates some clarification of the term "volume" as it is used in the domain of haircutting and hairstyling. Various, distinct meanings of the word are articulated here, for the purpose of accuracy and common understanding.
What do we mean when we say "volume"? "Volume" in the domain of haircutting and hairstyling is commonly and casually used differently from its dictionary definition. The notion of "volume" in this profession is generally limited to only one general, intuitive idea, which mainly refers to the height of the outer two-dimensional surface area of the hair on top of the head or elsewhere. However, the creation and development of orthocouralogy (scientific/logical haircutting method) has brought about the need for increased clarity in the use of the word "volume."
Rationale for adapting the word "volume" For several reasons, such as utility, practicality, standardization, and ease and precision of technical explanations, the definitions and usage of the word "volume" should be adapted for use in this field. This is not intended to disrespect the word's scientific and mathematical origins, but rather to acknowledge its current misuse and refine its denotations, to increase understanding and improve education in this field. A given hair-mass is made up of individual hair-strands/solids (numbering about 100,000 on average), which can have different qualities (e.g., straight or curly, thick or thin) and therefore includes a relative amount of air space, which space can be further increased or reduced with haircutting and hairstyling techniques. Volume (true volume) is by definition the quantity of three-dimensional space occupied by matter. In the domain of hairstyling (hairstyling in generic terms, meaning both haircutting and hairstyling), this meaning of the word "volume" is not the one we are usually concerned with. In fact, it is the relative or apparent volume that hairstylists and clients are most often referring to.
Proposition We develop and propose herein new expressions and more precise definitions that can be used formally and become part of the orthocouralogical lexicon. The intention is to create meaningful, agreed-upon technical terms, specifically adapted to our trade, in order to facilitate professional communication.
When will these new terms be used? During formal/academic instruction, and in formal written documentation. Remark: As per the orthocouralogical code of ethics, technical expressions are not to be employed for the purpose of impressing or misleading others. However, if necessary, technical expressions can be used and explained to professionals and non-professionals, for educational purposes. • •
Orthocouralogical terms and expressions must be used in formal/academic instruction. Orthocouralogical terms should be used for the most accurate technical explanations, in technical plates and charts, and at other times as indicated. ORTHOCOURALOGY
Some examples justifying the adaptation of the term "volume" Here are some examples of the confusion and contradiction around the word "volume" as it is currently used in the field. • It is often said that haircutting and hairstyling can increase volume. In terms of true volume, this is incorrect -- and haircutting actually reduces true volume! • Isn’t it true that allowing the hair's length to increase can often reduce "volume" as we commonly use the word, when in fact this is increasing volume? • Doesn't reducing length at the plateau (top) of the head induce an increase in "volume" (e.g., with curly hair), when in scientific fact it reduces the volume? So reducing length reduces true volume and can increase relative/apparent volume at a given position, but reduces relative/apparent volume at another... and increasing length can reduce relative/apparent volume at a given position and increase relative volume at another? The conclusion is simple, based on these examples. If an increase in length can create volume, and a decrease in length can induce an increase of volume, as the term is commonly interpreted by hairstylists, then we are thinking and operating at cross-purposes! The common belief that layering increases volume is inaccurate, since layering actually reduces volume. It is more accurate to say that layering may increase the relative/apparent volume at a given location, when in fact, according to the definition of the word "volume," layering reduces the (true) volume. An example pertaining to this issue is dealing with fine, straight hair. It is commonly believed that layering can increase volume, when in fact it reduces volume, and often has a negligible effect (or none) on the relative or apparent volume. In this case, if the idea is to give the illusion of increasing volume, the idea is highly questionable, since layering will reduce the true volume when more volume is needed, and can reduce the relative/apparent volume as well. Class debate/critical thinking based on scenarios Using a common practical example to illustrate can make the above issues easier to understand. Scenario example (simplified): • A given client has very fine, straight hair. • It is decided to keep her hairstyle short, but maintain as much true volume as possible. • The main idea is to maximize the true volume of the hair. Possible solutions: • •
Keep the haircut design short, and minimize layering magnitude in order to maximize true volume. A possible next step would be to add apparent volume, which variable can be changed given the same true volume. ORTHOCOURALOGY
Two basic types of relative volume 1. The relative volume of a given hair-mass in its natural state (dry) in a given environment 2. The relative volume of a given hair-mass having been styled
Orthocouralogical table of volume Types of volume Volume classification table (Ortho is an abbreviation for orthocouralogy/orthocouralogic/orthocouralogical) 1: Volume, or true ortho-volume The quantity of three-dimensional space the hair only occupies 2: Ortho-relative/apparent volume (general) The relative/apparent three-dimensional space the hair occupies after being cut and allowed to dry naturally or styled (with or without product) 3: Ortho-relative/apparent haircut design volume (hair-mass at rest, dry, minimally styled or manipulated) The quantity of three-dimensional space a haircut design (all or a portion of the hairmass) appears to occupy, including the relative air space between individual hairstrands, in a dry state and not styled (physical shape not modified) *Variables such as the shape of the hair (e.g., straight, curly, wiry) and different climatic conditions, such as dryness or humidity, can change the apparent volume. 4: Ortho-hairstyling volume: The relative/apparent three-dimensional space, including the relative space between individual hair-strands, all or a portion of the hair-mass occupies after being styled (e.g., blow-dried, set with rollers, back-combed, curly hair gelled to be maintained flat) 5: Ortho-dynamics (in brief) Ortho-dynamics includes the study of the relative/apparent three-dimensional space the hair/hair-mass can occupy in motion. The principles of orthocouralogy require this adaptation and interpretation of the different definitions of "volume," for the purpose of understanding the way that hair-masses and their physical properties can be logically observed, interpreted, and treated.
ORTHOCOURALOGY
Orthocouralogical plate: TV-RAV
True Volume vs Relative/Apparent Volume
TV
3
vs R/A V
3
Volume or true volume (TV 3 )
ORTHOCOURALOGY
3 Relative/apparent volume (R/A V )
Each segment line (black and bleu) represent one hair. The space in white represents the air space.
Volume, or true ortho-volume The quantity of three-dimensional space the hair only occupies Ortho-relative/apparent volume (general) The relative/apparent three-dimensional space the hair occupies after being cut and allowed to dry naturally or styled (with or without product)
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ORTHOCOURALOGY
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ORTHOCOURALOGY
Ortho-dynamics (e.g.) Relative/apparent volume In this photo session, the relative/ apparent volume has expanded from its relative volume in a static position. The motion of the hair induces an increase in relative volume and enhances the haircut design's layered structure. The extended head position and arched back also induce the increase in relative volume.
In motion or activated
ORTHOCOURALOGY
ORTHOCOURALOGY