VAEATS Weekly | 18 May 2020

WEEKLY

May 18, 2020 FREE

Perfect Pairings For Soft Shell Crabs

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EATER-VIEW Chef Ralph Anderson of Steinhilbers The COVID-19 crisis has affected many aspects of life across the region and across the globe, including dining out. Until breweries, distilleries, restaurants, specialty food stores, and wineries open their doors again for regular business, I’ll be profiling folks in the industry, telling you a little about them and what they do, and how the virus outbreak has touched their lives. I’ll also ask them to share recipes, tips, and tricks. This is part of a series that first runs in the Virginian-Pilot newspaper.

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Name: Ralph Anderson Title: Corporate Chef at Steinhilber’s Restaurant Ralph Anderson joined Steinhilber’s team as corporate chef just a few weeks ago, but he already loves his current position of running the kitchen operation of the venerable eatery.

“I Love my co-workers, and the family who owns the restaurant,” he says.

In the industry for 31 years, Anderson has an associates degree in culinary arts from Johnson & Wales University in Rhode Island.

“I worked in various hotels in Pennsylvania and Virginia Beach. I learned a lot at Cavalier Golf & Yacht Club alongside the executive chef at the time who was my mento and still proves to be an inspiration as well as many other chefs I’ve worked side-to-side with,” says Anderson.

But the love of cooking hit Anderson early in life.

“I have had a love and passion for food as along as I can remember. I would cook and bake with my mom as a young boy,” he says.

The chef has a simple philosophy of food: keep it simple.

“Properly handling the best quality local ingredients and adapting as the seasons change is important,” says Anderson. “Always stay a step ahead of new food trends and stay true to classical cooking techniques.”

Steinhilber’s opened in 1939 by Robert Steinhilber, tucked in the Thalia neighborhood along the shores of the Lynnhaven River.

The seafood and steak-centric eatery is still run by Robert’s family, with his grandson, Brady Viccellio, overseeing the day-today operations.

Steinhilber's has a nostalgic atmosphere. While we strive to stay current, we respect the past with a level of service that is all but lost in restaurants of today,” says Viccellio.

“True dedication to food quality and impeccable service is the formula that has enabled us to survive and prosper,” he notes.

RECIPE: LASAGNA “I chose to share my recipe for lasagna because it brings back memories of childhood, and I feel comfort food is where the American home is focused right now,” says Anderson.

In a medium pot, 1 box lasagna noodles until al dente, then aside.

In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, brown 1-1/2 pounds ground beef, add 3 tablespoons fresh chopped garlic, 1/4 teaspoons sea salt and 1/4 teaspoons fresh ground black pepper. Drain ground beef. Add 2 cups prepared marinara sauce to beef. Let simmer on low for 15-20 minutes Mix in 15 ounces ricotta cheese, 1 egg, 3 tablespoons parsley and half-cup mozzarella.

In 9x12 pan cover bottom with additional prepared marinara saucethen put a layer of noodles. More sauce on top of noodles.

At this point spread the ricotta mixture on then another layer of noodles. Add more sauce then four ounces mozzarella. Then repeat noodles, sauce, an additional four ounces of mozzarella, cover with a layer of wax paper then aluminum foil. Bake at 350F for 40 minutes or until hot and bubbly.

VAEATS | TELEVISION We’re proud to be part of the WTKR Newschannel 3 family and bring you good eats and good drinks on Coast Live throughout the month.

This is from our May 11, 2020 report: INSPIRED INFUSIONS | GREAT BALLS OF FIRE I love making my own infused spirits to drink on their own or to mix in cocktails. In my Inspired Infusions segment, I examine some easy ways for you to make your own at home.

With some cinnamon sticks and chile peppers, that perhaps you have leftover from baking or cooking, you can make an infused whiskey. Using these few, simple ingredients gives you a cinnamon-flavored imbibe similar to the popular drink, Fireball.

We used Reverend Spirit bourbon from R D Wilhelm Distillery in Norfolk but you could use any bourbon or whiskey that you choose. Other ingredients in the recipe comes from The Fresh Market. Here’s how I make it: In a large, sealable glass jar, empty the contents of a 750ml bottle of bourbon or whiskey. Add 5 cinnamon sticks broken in half and 11/2 tablespoons pure maple syrup. Seal jar, shake, and sit in a cool, dark space for 5 days.

After 5 days, open the jar and add 4 dried chilies; we like chilies de arbol but others will do, and 3 whole black peppercorns. Seal jar, shake, and return to a cool, dark space for an additional 5-7 days.

The infusion will get stronger the longer you let the ingredients steep.

To serve, pour the whiskey through a fine strainer or cheesecloth to remove the cinnamon and peppers and into another large, sealable, glass jar.

Bourbon comes from R D Wilhelm Distillery, www.facebook.com/RDWilhelmDistillery Some ingredients comes from The Fresh Market, www.TheFreshMarket.com PERSONAL TOUCH | AVOCADO CREMA I are going to start a new segment called Personal Touch, which will show a way to add your own style to prepared dishes.

The first dish is Avocado Crema, great for Tex-Mex cuisine. I make mine to give some panache to tacos, burritos, and more. It’s quick and easy to make, and adds to take-out or other prepared foods. Here’s how I make it, Continues on Page 8

Watch the video: https://bit.ly /CoastLive11 May2020

F-EAT-URE Soft Shells: A Primer Some folks mark the passing of time with a calendar; I divide my year based on the foods available. In Coastal Virginia, where I live, we’ve just gotten through shad roe season, but it’s not quite time for the Sweet Charlie strawberries to ripen to their showy red hue. That means one thing: softshell crabs are coming to market.

Blue crabs can be found all over the East Coast, but they’re particularly revered around the Chesapeake Bay. The story goes in these parts that just after the first full moon in May, the crabs start to shed their hard shells in order to grow a bit bigger for summer. Because they are very vulnerable when their exoskeleton is so thin and malleable, they hide in sea grasses until it hardens up. For that short period of time the crabs are completely edible—and completely delicious.

Most soft crabs these days do not actually come right from the ocean, but rather from peeler pots. Watermen gather the crabs, drop them in these big pots, and watch them around the clock. At the first sign of shedding, they are plucked out of the water to prevent the shell from hardening. It’s then that the crabs make their way to market.

Like many other foods, you can get softshell crabs out of season, usually frozen. Also like many other foods, even if the quality is good, there is still something about enjoying them only for a brief period—like right about now—that makes them all the more satisfying to eat.

A fishmonger may clean the crab for you, but if you pick yours up at a smaller market or roadside stand, you may have to do it yourself. Here's how it's done: Choose wisely: The best soft shell crabs are the ones that are still alive and still moving a bit when you pick them up at the market.

They tend to take a beating in transit, so some may have perished; as with so much seafood, your nose is the first—and maybe best— indicator of freshness. Look for an aroma that is clean and salty, like the ocean. Any crabs that have an off odor or ammonia on the nose should be avoided. The crab should be firm and the coloring even and free of mottling or spots.

First, lay the crab down on a cutting board and with a sharp knife or kitchen scissors cut off its face, just behind the eyes and mouth— about a ¼" strip.

Next, lift up the top shell at its corners and remove the gills on each side.

Finally, turn the crab on its back and remove the apron by pulling down on the flap. On male crabs, the apron looks like the Washington Monument; on females it looks like the Liberty Bell.

Either way, it's not edible, so discard it.

This article originally appeared in Saveur; read it at https://bit.ly/SaveurSoftShells

Recipe, Page 8 Photo

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Cheers | Wines to pair with Soft Shell Crabs On the May 15 broadcast of The Virginia Eats + Drinks Show, we asked Lindsay Bennett, owner/sommelier of Press 626 in Norfolk, to pair three wines with soft shell crabs. Here’s her picks, all available for purchase to go at her Ghent restaurant: Lambert de Seysell, Molette, Altesse, 2018, Savoie, France.

“Highly acidic, and dry with lively bubbles. Yeasty tangy citrus, with a creamy finish. Sparkling wines of Seyssel use the traditional champagne method, and take it a step further by aging for at least three years before disgorging it.

We are left with a complex, distinguished aroma/ palate that stands up to true Champagne.” $35 Weingut Meulenhof, Riesling, 2017, Mosel, Germany.

“Opulent and full bodied, lush fruit, and high acid. Will revive your senses and wake up that palate. To be consumed post yard work.” $26

Press 626.com

Stobi Winery Rosé, 2018, Tikveš, Macedonia “Blended with 2 local grapes varietals: 80% Rktsiteli, 20% Vranec. Fresh, bright, easy drinking rosé, with floral notes, watermelon rind, and unripe strawberry. This is the porch pounder wine for 2020.” $15 VAEATS Special: Purchase all 3 for $76 and get a free $15 gift certificate to use when Press 626 reopens

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Cut two small-to-medium avocados in half, remove pit, and scoop out flesh into a medium bowl. Mash until mostly smooth. Add a half cup of sour cream and stir to thoroughly incorporate. Add 3-4 tablespoons of diced tomatoes or prepared pico de gallo, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir to thoroughly incorporate. Add additional sour cream if necessary; the crema should spread smoothly.

RECIPE | SOFTSHELL CRAB SANDWICH WITH COLLARD SLAW

Some ingredients comes from The Fresh Market, www.TheFreshMarket.com Make your own tacos or grab a Family Taco Dinner pack from Cowboy Neil’s Cantina, www.CowboyNeilsCantina.com HOW TO USE A DRIVE THROUGH FARMERS MARKET Virginia Eats + Drinks has a comprehensive COVID-19 website that features many eats and drinks tips and tricks during the outbreak.

These include how use farmers markets during the pandemic. Many markets are open but are drive-through only. Here’s how they work: + You need to place orders in advance with vendors + You drive up, pop open your trunk, and drive off + We will have additional guidelines on our blog For information visit www.VirginiaEatsAndDrinks.com/covid19 COVID 19: VIRGINIA EATS + DRINKS RESPONSE Tune in to our new website Virginia Eats + Drinks has a comprehensive COVID-19 website with features on restaurant offerings such as deliveries and pick ups.

Also look for recipes and expert cooking tips, check out valuable tips for dealing with virus prep and quarantine, and follow along for a virtual dinner party For information visit www.VirginiaEatsAndDrinks.com/covid19 MORE VIRGINIA EATS + DRINKS For Reads, Recipes and Resources from Virginia Eats + Drinks, visit www.VirginiaEatsAndDrinks.com

SAUCES AND SLAW INGREDIENTS 1⁄ cup mayonnaise 2 1 1⁄2 tsp. bread and butter pickles, finely chopped 1 1⁄2 tsp. fresh lemon juice 1 1⁄2 tsp. minced sweet onion, such as Vidalia 1⁄ tsp. garlic powder 2 1⁄ tsp. chile flakes 2 1⁄ cup chile sauce 2 1⁄ cup ketchup 2 3 tbsp. prepared horseradish 1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 tsp. Asian hot sauce, such as Sriracha 1⁄ cup apple cider vinegar 2 3 tbsp. sugar 2 tbsp. canola oil 1⁄ tsp. celery seed 2 1⁄ tsp. dry mustard 8 1⁄ small head green cabbage, shredded 2 2 tbsp. minced parsley 6 leaves collard greens, stemmed and thinly sliced 1 medium carrot, peeled and coarsely grated 1⁄ small onion, coarsely grated 2 Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste CRABS INGREDIENTS 8 softshell crabs, cleaned Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 cups flour 1⁄ cup olive oil 3 3 tbsp. unsalted butter 4 buns, toasted METHOD Make the tartar sauce: Combine mayonnaise, pickles, lemon juice, onion, garlic powder, chile flakes, salt, and pepper in a bowl; refrigerate 3 hours.

Make the cocktail sauce: Whisk the chile sauce, ketchup, horseradish, lemon juice, and hot sauce in a bowl; cover and refrigerate 1 hour.

Make the coleslaw: Whisk vinegar, sugar, oil, celery seeds, and mustard in a large bowl; add parsley, collards, carrot, onion, salt, and pepper and mix well. Cover and refrigerate 1 hour before serving.

Cook the crabs: In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and pepper; set aside. Coat crabs in flour mixture, shaking off excess. Heat oil and butter in a 12” skillet over medium-high; working in batches, fry crabs, turning once, until golden brown, 2-3 minutes. Transfer to paper towels and season with salt and pepper.

To assemble the sandwich, slather tartar sauce and cocktail sauce on inside of buns; top each sandwich with 2 crabs and coleslaw.

DEJA CHEW Celebrating Virginia’s rich eats + drinks heritage

GORDONSVILLE CHICKEN VENDORS "Frying chicken was a technique known to Europeans before the first settlers came to Virginia, but it was here that the highly seasoned, golden, and crispy crusted fried chicken that we know today was developed.

Gordonsville, in central Virginia’s Orange County, earned the titled Fried Chicken Capital of the World in the mid-to-late nineteenth century when African-American women met the many trains that stopped at the town, a prime rail junction of two railroads. Trains in those days lacked dining facilities, and the women walked alongside the cars, balancing platters of fried chicken on their heads and serving passengers through open windows.

They also peddled dried apple pies. The prices were 15 cents for legs and breasts and between a nickel and 10 cents for backs and wings. Their entrepreneurial story, along with descriptions of their delicious chicken, was popularized in magazines of the day.”

Dishing Up Virginia